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fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 126

Today's Topics:

Re: New Member Intro ["Jim Strigas"
ADMIN: For those who think they've b ["Payne, Kenneth"
Re: wheel size, 15 vs 16 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
re: I need an F100 ["Tony Sawyer" ]
re: I need an F100 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Gas Tank Location [Jonathan Martin
gauges [billjhs ]
Re: gauges [Leon Atkinson ]
Re: gauges ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: gauges, P.S. ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Tires and Wheels [reedg ns2.cetlink.net ]
Flathead 48 ["Lee Hardy" ]
Re: Ok here's my theroy.... [Daver ]
Re: wheel size, 15 vs 16 [Daver ]
Re: gauges, P.S. [Daver ]
Re: Tires and Wheels [Daver ]
Re: Tires and Wheels [reedg ns2.cetlink.net ]
Re: Tires and Wheels [SARHOG aol.com ]
Gas Tank Location [Paul G ]
Re: Tires and Wheels [Daver ]
Re: FW: 1949 Ford F100 Overheating P [canzus seanet.com ]
Re: 56 Front Grill Wanted [Scooch13in aol.com ]
Re: Flathead 48 [Niqjh aol.com ]

Administrivia:

____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 07:58:32 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: New Member Intro
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Welcome to the list Gary!
Have no fear, this is Kaos, we don't slap here! Flame, blame, point
fingers, demand reference material, call names yes, but we never slap. It
just not civil! ;] Your lineage is very impressive! You will make a nice
seasoning to the stew. Ken (our list Mom) has some cool things brewing for
us. He keeps us informed and lets us take part in decisions concerning our
list by way of vote. I think you'll enjoy it here!
As for me, I'm a Gigolo which gives me a lot of time to surf too! I have
no idea what I'm talking about and haven't the sense to shut-up. As for the
rest of us, we're just people, people who need people. We're the luckiest
people in the world! And yes we are the World. I have to stop now, my one
finger grasp I have on reality is starting to slip!
Before I go I need to have some Ford truck content to make this a lawful
post, so here's something I've been a wonder'n. What are the effects wheel
diameter have on operation, 16" Vs 15" rim.
Oh, this is cutting things a little close "/ \" glad we don't slap here!
:)
Later!



Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net

'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary, 78 BBB
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Date: Thursday, July 24, 1997 6:16 AM
Subject: New Member Intro



>I'm new to the truck list so I'll introduce myself briefly. I have
>had 7 Ford trucks including a 67 f-100, 68 f-100, 62 f-600 cab over
>stake truck (lots of fun), 73 e-350, 75 e-150, 78 f-150 and current 78
>bronco XLT ranger. Whoops! almost forgot the 48 flathead stake truck
>I had for a short time. (wish I still had it :-( ) I had a 351W,
>351C, 429 and 460 in the 75 van which I also converted to 4x4 using
>bronco parts and some imagination. The 460 now resides in my 78 f-150
>and is waiting for a new crank. The 75 is dead and buried in a
>salvage yard but its heart (alas, not it's soul) is piled up in my
>back yard as spares for the bronco. (I loved that truck!)
>
>I work at Ford Motor as a Tool & Cutter Grinder programming,
>setting up and running CNC equipment, developing tooling for
>production as well as maintaining our tool room data base (Access II)
>on a company network server. I've been messing with mechanical stuff
>since I was 12 years old and it's facination hasn't diminished yet
>for me so here I am! My job allows me considerable surfing time and
>the bronco list has slowed down for the summer so I went looking for
>some new info related to my bronco project and found you guys.
>Sometimes I think I know more than I do so don't be afraid to slap me
>once in a while if I get carried away.
>
>BTW, I'm an old time mechanic so EFI and EEC-IV et all are way beyond
>my interest or knowledge (I am a dura spark II expert tho) but I am
>considering using EGO's to calibrate my Holley's fuel mix and maybe a
>knock sensor at some point but this is all still in dream land.
>
>Here's the run down on my current trucks:
>
>78 bronco XLT Ranger, 351M, NP435, NP205, 9" rear, 31 spline with
>3.5 open diff , Dana 44 front also open (and leaking like a seive),
>33" tires. Body in good shape with typical rust over rear wheels and
>floor behind front wheels. Stock suspension with anti sway bars
>front and rear (very happy about that) new rear springs, Cepek
>shocks, poly bushings, double cardans front and rear (one end only)
>and my rear window works and the tail gate isn't rusted out (yet).
>Oh, and brand new E brake cables which make this the first truck I
>ever had with E brake that works :-) Know how you can tell an old
>Ford truck going down the road? By the E brake cables hanging down
>(rusted out)
>
>78 F-150 Custom, 460 basic engine with home made cobbled up mounts,
>C-6 wide ratio, 9" 31 spline rear 2.75 gears open diff, stock LT
>tires and lots of rust.
>
>I've considered restoring the PU but It's pretty hopeless. Still in
>my thoughts but now the bronco has replaced it in priority and it's
>far from hopeless :-)
>
>-- Gary Peters --
>
>(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
>(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
>(Daughter's)92 Tempo
>(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
>(Wife's)94 T-Bird
>(Son's)90 F-150, I6
>(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
>All mine to work on, maintain etc..
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 12:41:19 -0400
From: "Payne, Kenneth"
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: ADMIN: For those who think they've been unsubscribed
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain

This email doesn't apply to 95% of the list members but
unfortunately all will have to read it to find out if its
directed to them.

Three days ago I sent a email to the lists with the subject
"ADMIN NEWS: Please read". I waited for digests to go out to
both lists so I would be assured that everyone had a chance to
read it. Many didn't. I stated that I was cleaning out duplicated
entries from our subscriber lists so I could get an accurate count
of subscribers as we approach the 1000 member mark. I also stated
that if your name was duplicated you would receive an unsubscribe
message but you were not being unsubscribed - this is an informative
message from the server to let you know the duplicated entry is being
removed.

Several people emailed me asking "why am I being unsubscribed?"
Please read all ADMIN messages in the future to prevent such
misunderstandings.

A couple of users sent a message stating they were sending subscribe
messages just to double check that they were still subscribed. The
server tells you "already on the subscriber list" when you attempt
to subscribe if you already are. This is a very easy and appropriate
way to verify your subscription - thank you to those who did this.
Naturally, if you receive this email you're still subscribed.

Since I already spend over 1-2 hours each evening administering the
lists (not including time to participate as a member):

I'm doing an extensive update of the FAQ. Everyone will receive a
copy of this new FAQ when it's complete. Except a much larger and
complete FAQ. From that point on, questions covered in the FAQ or
via ADMIN messages be ignored or you'll just receive a reply that
states "read the FAQ." This does not apply to questions which ask
for clarification or more details. I'm doing this so I can go back
to participating in the list as a hobby rather than just administering
it. Currently 90% of the administrative work I do behind the scenes
is because many do not bother to read the FAQ and charter (each new
member in the past 2 1/2 months received them when they subscribed)
and ADMIN postings.

If you didn't receive digest 122 and you're on the old truck list,
then you missed the ADMIN notice. It seems that a couple of members
did not receive this digest - I got bounced emails from a couple of
sites, don't know why.

On another note, I still haven't received a reply from the potential
advertiser. I sent them email on Friday, obviously they aren't very
quick.


Ken (List "Mom")
Climbing down off the soapbox....
Send any personal replies to kpayne mindspring.com

PS. I know, my work email address is screwed, it shows me as "Kevin"

-Ken
Cole's Law: Thinly Sliced Cabbage

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 14:27:51 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: wheel size, 15 vs 16
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> From: "Jim Strigas"
> Subject: Re: New Member Intro
> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 07:58:32 -0700

> Welcome to the list Gary!
> Have no fear, this is Kaos, we don't slap here! Flame, blame,

It's ok, I've been married twice so I'm used to it :-)

> post, so here's something I've been a wonder'n. What are the effects
> wheel diameter have on operation, 16" Vs 15" rim.

If you mean with the same outside diameter the 16's will improve
handling on relatively smooth roads and the 15's will improve ride
quality all other things being equal but don't assume bigger or
fatter tires mean softer, it don't work thataway. Taller usually
means wider and taller and wider usually means heavier sidewalls to
compensate for additional mechanical advantage of the contact patch
and additional distance from the road to prevent tire deflection
etc.. Bigger means more unsprung weight which means less control by
the shocks and more energy expended (and stored by the suspension)
before anything moves which effectively translates into hitting
things with relatively less suspension where the worst case would be
no suspension. This is all relative of course to the degree of
heavyness or largeness etc..

Cars with less suspension stiffness and lighter axle/wheel assys for
instance, handle stutter bumps better than trucks for this reason
because the shocks can work with the smaller inertia loads the car
suspension and axle/wheel assys exert which is another reason racers
use more than one shock and usually of varying valve specs in an
attempt to cover all aspects of the bump for more control. (as well
as to reduce heat build up and foaming)

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 12:41:59 -0700
From: "Tony Sawyer"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: re: I need an F100
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I'm looking for a '53-'56 F100 or F100 panel truck. My plans are to make a
daily driver with modern/updated brakes/engine/suspension (ie not restoring).
Primered body is fine and mechanical condition in some logical stage of
improvement (brakes/engine/suspension) is good too. Where is the best place to
start looking for one!?!?! Where are some shops in the Orange County, CA area
that specialize in major component swaps at a reasonable price (remeber this is
not a show truck). WHat is a good reference guide for F1 and F100 trucks? I'm
not too sure where to start and what to look for so any helpful hints would be
good.

--
Tony Sawyer

Gemini Technology Corporation
23792 Rockfield Blvd., Suite 160
Lake Forest, California 92630-2868

(714) 598-0961
(714) 598-0966 FAX

-- Technical support issues: support gemtech.com
-- Personal Email: tonys gemtech.com
-- Web Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.gemtech.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 15:52:29 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: re: I need an F100
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> From: "Tony Sawyer"
> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 12:41:59 -0700
> Subject: re: I need an F100

> I'm looking for a '53-'56 F100 or F100 panel truck. My plans are to
> make a daily driver with modern/updated brakes/engine/suspension (ie
> not restoring).
-- Snip--
> improvement (brakes/engine/suspension) is good too. Where is the
> best place to start looking for one!?!?! Where are some shops in

Try this URL for some that might be already close to what you want:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.traderonline.com/auto/truck/search/index.shtml

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 16:58:31 -0400
From: Jonathan Martin
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Location
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Paul G wrote:

> I know this sounds like a silly question, but does anyone have a
> theory
> as to why Ford put the gas tanks on the inside of the frame rail,
> instead of outside, like the pickups?
>
> Paul G.
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
> to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

It is on the inside to protect it from side impact crash. On the
outside it could explode if hit.

Jonathan Martin
'77 F150 Flareside 460

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:10:47 -0400
From: billjhs
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: gauges
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello to all,

Does anyone know a good way to use 6v gauges on a 12v system. Its a 1951
f-1 ford and the gauges are bi-metallic. I tried a solid state
regulator, but the gauge burned it out.Any ideas???? Thanks Bill

billjhs bellatlantic.net
1951 Ford F-1

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 14:27:38 -0700
From: Leon Atkinson
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: gauges
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Does anyone know a good way to use 6v gauges on a 12v system.

I've read you can get a resistor that will step the voltage down. The book
I read this in made it seem like you needed some special resistor, but it
probably just has to be the right number of ohm and amperage.

Leon
1956 F100

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:59:41 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: gauges
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 14:27:38 -0700
> From: Leon Atkinson
> Subject: Re: gauges

> >Does anyone know a good way to use 6v gauges on a 12v system.
>
> I've read you can get a resistor that will step the voltage down.
> The book I read this in made it seem like you needed some special
> resistor, but it probably just has to be the right number of ohm and
> amperage.

It just occured to me that ballast resistors are made to handle lots
of heat and have heat sinks built in. They run anywhere from 6v to
8v. My guess is that 8v might not hurt the gauges since the
generators put out more than 6v line voltage when the engine runs.
There are bridges you can buy at electonics stores which can help
regulate over voltages as well such as ziener diodes mounted on heat
sinks etc. but I'd resist tbem down first before grounding through a
diode.


-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:10:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: gauges, P.S.
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:59:41 +0000
> Subject: Re: gauges

>I've read you can get a resistor that will step the voltage down.
>The book I read this in made it seem like you needed some special
>resistor, but it probably just has to be the right number of ohm
>and amperage.

One other caution, resistors work by converting energy (electricity)
to heat. If pushed very hard (considerable voltage drop) they will
get very hot and will require a heat sink. I alluded to this a
moment ago but forgot to emphasize this point, sorry :-) This is why
I suggested the ballast resistor since it is made to handle a heavy
load, more than the gauges will impose for sure.


-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 20:18:07 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Tires and Wheels
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

I am going an estate auction on sunday. Apparently a Tire and Wheel
store is part of the estate and they will be selling some of them in
sets of four. I really don't know what brand names they have but what
size of tires and wheels do I need for a '78 F-150 4x4 with no extra
lift?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 20:32:33 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
To:
Cc:
Subject: Flathead 48
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Kelly and gang: I have 4 barns full of 35-56 Ford truck parts, so
should be able to help you some. Please call me or email me for info on
what you are wanting to do. I can recommend suppliers based on your needs.
My # is (860) 774 7327 in Ct.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 07:45:18 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> -- My reply --
>
> Keep in mind that many of us are building motors or swaping in motors
> which put out much more heat than the original so that the radiator
> can become marginal at best. Most pump gas around here is 91 octane
> and questionable even at that. Responses I've seen so far seem to
> indicate that 10.5:1 is about it on pump gas and back in the old days
> I remember 9.5:1 requiring premium which was higher octane back then
> but mixtures were richer as well. It really depends on the
> mixture/cam specs how far you can really go. If you run lean enough
> with the right cam set up you could conceivably get up to 12:1 but I
> doubt if most of us could do it successfully. Even at 93 octane
> you'd have to sacrifice something seems to me, either by retarding
> the spark or staying off the gas to avoid detonation. Sportsman
> stock car guys run 10:1 compression on 104 octane because of the
> specifics of the cam/mixture etc. coupled with more heat than street
> engines due to sustained high rpms etc. and most of them use over
> size aluminum radiators as well.
>
> -- Gary Peters --

Gary I have been running this engine for about 5 years; just had a
freshen up. I have built and raced these things for about 16 years and
experience has tought me if you take the time to plan things out and set
the engine and the rest of the vehical up correctly you would be
surprised at what they'll do. I said, very clearly the static
compression is 12:1 but that does not reflect the dynamic compression
which is lower due to valve overlap. If you are not shooting for great
gas milage then horsepower and cool can be achieved hand in hand,
remember fuel cools if you put the fuel into the cylinder wet and run a
cold plug a hi compressio engine does fine.

Sportsman class, if memory serves me correctly, allows NOS and also
allows additives in the fuel and the cars you are talkinig about I
assume is the NHRA sportsman class. Let me explane how this works. You
ease your car up to the line after burnout, engage the transbrake run
the R's up to around 5 or 6 thousand and set still until the last yellow
light comes on let off the transbrake (putting all the horse power to
the ground at once hit second coming off the end of the pad pull her up
to 6500 or 7000, or more, nail third and about the time you hit 5 or 6
grand you run through the traps. Did I miss anything? So why do these
cars get hot? go figure.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 07:54:11 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: wheel size, 15 vs 16
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> It's ok, I've been married twice so I'm used to it :-)
>
> > post, so here's something I've been a wonder'n. What are the effects
> > wheel diameter have on operation, 16" Vs 15" rim.
>
> If you mean with the same outside diameter the 16's will improve
> handling on relatively smooth roads and the 15's will improve ride
> quality all other things being equal but don't assume bigger or
> fatter tires mean softer, it don't work thataway. Taller usually
> means wider and taller and wider usually means heavier sidewalls to
> compensate for additional mechanical advantage of the contact patch
> and additional distance from the road to prevent tire deflection
> etc.. Bigger means more unsprung weight which means less control by
> the shocks and more energy expended (and stored by the suspension)
> before anything moves which effectively translates into hitting
> things with relatively less suspension where the worst case would be
> no suspension. This is all relative of course to the degree of
> heavyness or largeness etc..
>
> Cars with less suspension stiffness and lighter axle/wheel assys for
> instance, handle stutter bumps better than trucks for this reason
> because the shocks can work with the smaller inertia loads the car
> suspension and axle/wheel assys exert which is another reason racers
> use more than one shock and usually of varying valve specs in an
> attempt to cover all aspects of the bump for more control. (as well
> as to reduce heat build up and foaming)
>
> -- Gary Peters --

Hey this is great did you get this Jim? You'll do well here Gary
Welcome.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 07:58:56 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: gauges, P.S.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> One other caution, resistors work by converting energy (electricity)
> to heat. If pushed very hard (considerable voltage drop) they will
> get very hot and will require a heat sink. I alluded to this a
> moment ago but forgot to emphasize this point, sorry :-) This is why
> I suggested the ballast resistor since it is made to handle a heavy
> load, more than the gauges will impose for sure.
>
> -- Gary Peters --

> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

If I am not mistaken 6v systems run higher amperage so will simple
deviding the voltage w/o raising amps lead to an accurate reading on the
gauges?

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 08:01:36 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Tires and Wheels
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

reedg ns2.cetlink.net wrote:
>
> I am going an estate auction on sunday. Apparently a Tire and Wheel
> store is part of the estate and they will be selling some of them in
> sets of four. I really don't know what brand names they have but what
> size of tires and wheels do I need for a '78 F-150 4x4 with no extra
> lift?

I personally like p255 70 15 they are a little larger but will still fit
stock suspesion and body finders.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 21:17:10 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Tires and Wheels
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 08:01:36 -0500
> From: Daver


> >

>
> I personally like p255 70 15 they are a little larger but will still fit
> stock suspesion and body finders.
>
What exactly does the numbers in P255 70 15 mean? Most of what I have
read assumes that you already know.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 21:45:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: SARHOG aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Tires and Wheels
Message-ID:

This is to answer your question about metric tire sizing. This is how it
would break down in your example, P255-70-15:

P= Passenger car (or light truck)
255= the tire tread is 255 millimeters wide
70= this is the aspect ratio. That means the tire's height (the sidewall)
is 70% of the width
15= the diameter of the rim the tire is designed for

Hope this helps, John Z

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 22:23:31 -0700
From: Paul G
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Gas Tank Location
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

My question on why, say in the mid-50s, the same year pickup would have
the gas tank under the running board, but that year panel, which is as
far as I can tell, identical in this area, would have the tank mounted
inside the frame. I was referring to the company doing things 2 ways
during the same year, on identical chassis.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:20:03 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Tires and Wheels
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

reedg ns2.cetlink.net wrote:
>
> > Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 08:01:36 -0500
> > From: Daver
>
> > >
>
> >
> > I personally like p255 70 15 they are a little larger but will still fit
> > stock suspesion and body finders.
> >
> What exactly does the numbers in P255 70 15 mean? Most of what I have
> read assumes that you already know.

Its a tire size The brand I run is Cooper.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 20:51:43 -0700
From: canzus seanet.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FW: 1949 Ford F100 Overheating Problem
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 12:48 AM 7/24/97 UT, you wrote:
>
>
>----------
>From: Glenn J.Spata[FAX:+1 (908) 925-9223]
>Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 1997 10:43 PM
>To: 'fordtruck lofcom.com'
>Subject: 1949 Ford F100 Overheating Problem
>
>Hello, Please excuse the Caddy57 address, I'm asking this question for my
>brother who does not have a computer.
>
>My brother has a '49 F100. He has an overheating problem when he drives at
>highway speeds (about 50mph). Around town and even at idle speeds, the engine
>runs cool. The engine has been boiled out and rebuilt. Same with the
>radiator. He says he has good coolant circulation which he sees when he
>removes the radiator cap. He say the radiator is hot to the touch at the top
>but cool at the bottom, so coolant temperature is being decreased as it passes
>through the radiator. Thermostat has been changed twice. When he drives at
>the highway speeds, he can watch the temp gauge climb.
>
....


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