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------------------------------

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fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 123

Today's Topics:

Re: Ok here's my theroy.... ["George Shepherd"
Re: Ok here's my theroy.... ["Jason K. Schechner" ]
Re: Ok here's my theory.... [Mike Schwall ]
RE: Sputtering 390 [RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.co]
Re: Re: Ok here's my theroy.... [MadPoodle aol.com ]
Replacement Panels [hoel coastalnet.com ]
Re: Replacement Panels ["George Shepherd"
460 ["Rodney S. Richeson"
Re: Ok here's my theroy.... [Chris North ]
RE: 460 [Kevin Kemmerer ]
engine/ heads identification [SARHOG aol.com ]
Re: engine/ heads identification [John Macnamara ]
Re: engine/ heads identification [SHOman ]
Exhausting work... [Kevin Lindstedt
RE: engine/ heads identification [Kevin Kemmerer ]
Re: All this and still HOT!! [Bj2797 aol.com ]
ADMIN NEWS: Please read [Ken Payne ]
9'' rear id ["Lee Hardy" ]
460 ["Rodney S. Richeson"
Re: Ok here's my theroy.... [Daver ]
Re: 460 [Daver ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 16:19:13 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Just had a thought on how you could check, pop a casting plug (freeze plug)
some place where you can see. Take a good look arround for buildup, use a
dental mirror. Then you can put a new casting plug in.

----------
> From: George Shepherd
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
> Date: Monday, July 21, 1997 8:39 AM
>
> The "meric" sounds muratic acid, the type used to clean swimming pool
> bottoms. It also sounds like a desperate last ditch solution :-)). I
really
> can't think that anything short of a vat boil out will save this block
and
> that would probably only be done in conjunction with a rebuild.
>
> ----------
> > From: Clark Gustafson
> > To: Ford Truck Mailing List
> > Subject: Ok here's my theroy....
> > Date: Monday, July 21, 1997 2:11 AM
> >
> > When I bought the truck it was overheating ( I know what your thinking
> but
> > the price was right!) anyway, first I replaced the sending unit, then
on
> > close inspection and only after trying to flush the dern thing five
times
> I
> > realized the radiator was very plugged(dah!) so I replaced it. Then
when
> > this didn't work I tried removing the thermost and replaced the
170degree
> > with a 160, and still HOT, so I replaced the electric sender with a
> > mechanical and guess what....H O T. I replaced the timing chain and
cover
> > gaskets recently so on went a new rebuilt water pump...........but nope
> > ahhhhhhh! Now the therory: If after all this, and still the engine is
> > hot, whats left? Well, either the water jackets as plugged as the old
> > radiator was (our water is not the greatest here) or the head gasket is
> > wrong-backa**wards-homemade? Now I think that it has to be the water
> > jacket, I read somewhere that 1/16th of an inch of crap on a block can
> > cause a reduction of heat transfer by 40%, thats quite a little amount
of
> > buildup to cause such problems (that ought to get you all stirred up
with
> > discussion...lol) So what do I use to remove that buildup of crap? I
was
> > told to flush good then fill with water minus a quart and add a quart
of
> > "Meric" acid and run for about 1/2 hour then flush again. And if that
> > don't work then take it to a reputable shop and have it "pressure
> flushed".
> > Any other ideas?? Thanks again guys!! Couldn't do it without ya! Griz
> >
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________________
> > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
> >
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 17:49:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jason K. Schechner"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 21 Jul 1997, George Shepherd wrote:

> The "meric" sounds muratic acid, the type used to clean swimming pool
> bottoms. It also sounds like a desperate last ditch solution :-)). I really
> can't think that anything short of a vat boil out will save this block and
> that would probably only be done in conjunction with a rebuild.

Muratic acid is just dilute Hydrochloric acid. IOW - be careful
is you decide to go this route, though I would strongly recommend against
it. Hydrochloric acid is very good at oxidizing (aka: rusting) metals.
Have you tried some of the commercially available radiator flushes? I've
had good experiences with Prestone "superflush"

-Jason
79 Bronco (351M, C6, 33" BFG AT's) GRN GYNT - offroad monster
79 Bronco (400M, C6, 31" Wranglers) blue - road beast
95 Mustang GT (hers) bone stock
95 Mustang GT (his) Eibachs, 3.55's, K&N, 13deg timing

-----
Jason K. Schechner- Unix Sysadmin - Oracle Corp
check out www.cauce.org and help ban spam-mail.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 17:16:20 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theory....
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 02:11 AM 7/21/97 -0500, you wrote:
>When I bought the truck it was overheating ( I know what your thinking but
>the price was right!) anyway, first I replaced the sending unit, then on
>close inspection and only after trying to flush the dern thing five times I
>realized the radiator was very plugged(dah!) so I replaced it. Then when
>this didn't work I tried removing the thermost and replaced the 170degree
>snip>

Has the engine been previously rebuilt? It's possible that the previous
owner bored the cylinders a little too much. Anything close to .060" or
over will cause the motor to run hot.

Try a different water port. There should be several plugs on the intake
that hit water. Move the sender to another port. If it still reads the
same, looks like you have a water restriction in the block.

Only thing that will 100% cure your problem is a tear-down and have the
block dipped. While your at it, might as well go for a good rebuild. It's
only money :-)

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intix.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 97 18:20:55 -0400
From: RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: RE: Sputtering 390
Message-Id:

Item Subject: Text Item

I had a 360 that would sputter around the 1100 rpm range. The High
priced shop swore up and down that is was carberation. The problem
turned out to be a bad distributor! Check for bushing wear. This is
a common problem. Let us know.

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 20:03:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: MadPoodle aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-ID:

The "meric" sounds muriatic acid, the type used to clean swimming pool

> bottoms.

And, have we stopped long enough to consider what happens to an (I presume)
aluminum / copper / brass radiator when acid hits it. Sounds like a hell of a
good way to damage a new radiator....
Does it run cooler w/o thermostat???

l8tr

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 22:46:08 -0700
From: hoel coastalnet.com
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Replacement Panels
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello all... need a little advice...
One: We need to replace our gas tank, but have no idea how to
empty it. The vehicle is a '77 F150 4x4 Flareside.
Two: Our bed has sustained damage to the drivers side rear panel
(behind wheel well), tail light area. Does anyone know any supplier who
would have replacement panels? We have checked JC Whitney and they don't
carry the specific area we need, because our truck is a flareside. Also,
our other option is to get another bed so if anyone knows of any
available, please email us. Also, what years (73-79) are interchangeable
with '77. Thanks in advance.

Jerry & Lisa
'77 F150 Flareside 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 23:21:08 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Replacement Panels
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

J C Whitney, and some local stores have an electric pump with hoses on it.
stick it down the fill pipe and suck away into a gas can.

----------
> From: hoel coastalnet.com
> To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
> Subject: Replacement Panels
> Date: Tuesday, July 22, 1997 12:46 AM
>
> Hello all... need a little advice...
> One: We need to replace our gas tank, but have no idea how to
> empty it. The vehicle is a '77 F150 4x4 Flareside.
> Two: Our bed has sustained damage to the drivers side rear panel
> (behind wheel well), tail light area. Does anyone know any supplier who
> would have replacement panels? We have checked JC Whitney and they don't
> carry the specific area we need, because our truck is a flareside. Also,
> our other option is to get another bed so if anyone knows of any
> available, please email us. Also, what years (73-79) are interchangeable
> with '77. Thanks in advance.
>
> Jerry & Lisa
> '77 F150 Flareside 4x4
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 22:21:05 +0000
From: "Rodney S. Richeson"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 460
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have a 460 that has been rebuilt but was in a car. I put a new oil
pump and and rear sump pickup/pan. It has very good pressure when first
started up but then falls as things begins to warm up. If I stop at a
light it falls very low on the stock gauge, then goes about to the
middle after I take off again. I have moved since I purchased the oil
pump, and have procured a new Melling high volume pump, but things are
tight to change it in the vehicle.

I had another 460 in this truck and lost #6 con rod bearing and don't
want this to happen again. Bambino due any day now and the wife is
quitting work.

Thanks in advance,

Rod

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 00:44:37 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris North
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Now I think that it has to be the water
>jacket, I read somewhere that 1/16th of an inch of crap on a block can
>cause a reduction of heat transfer by 40%

O.K. guys, if you keep it up, I just won't be able to stop myself...

> If you have the 1/16th of an inch of crap in the block (and it is
>reducing the heat transfer by 40%, then how is your coolant getting
>hot?

Ah...Someone's thinking!! (I warned you)

Now, think about this a minute. Temperature and heat are different things.
A burning match is very hot, but will not heat a room in the winter. A
steam radiator is not all that hot (you can place your hand on it), but it
will heat the room nicely. The match has a higher temperature, but the
radiator is giving off more heat. Get it?

Now, if your coolant is getting too hot (and it is not just your gauge),
either your radiator is not disapating as much heat as your engine is
producing or your engine is producing more heat than your radiator is
disapating (kinda the same, isn't it?). If crud build-up in the block is
preventing the heat produced by the motor from going to the coolant, then
the coolant will not get as hot (but the motor will be hotter).
Eventually, the motor will get hot enough that the heat transfer thorugh
the crud will equal the heat produced by the motor, and that heat will be
disapated by the radiator--no overheating, just a hotter running motor (but
the coolant temperature would be the same).

Since you have replaced just about everything in your cooling system you
can (radiator, t-stat, w-pump, etc...) I would suspect that it is working
OK. Your motor must be producing more heat. How? 1) Running lean. 2)
Too high compression. 3) Ingnition timing too advanced. 4) Head gasket
leaking 5) Valve timing off (I'm not sure which way). 6) Exhaust
restriction. Anybody know any other reasons?

Any recent motor work? A vacuum leak will lead directly to a lean
condition. Head rebuilds can raise compression. So can carbon build-up.
How are your points? Have you put in a new cam? Are you loosing
coolant/have excessive water in your exhaust? Try running a compression
check (you can probably buy a compression gage for less than a water pump
;^)

My question is "are you really overheating?" If you are, you should be
pinging and detonating. Big time. With the engine 'hot' punch it in 1st
gear from a stop. Does it ping and sound like a diesel? If so, they you
are overheating. If not, then either your gauge is screwy or your sensor
is in a 'bad' location. By bad location, I mean that for some reason, the
coolant at the location of the sensor is hotter than the bulk coolant.
Gasket blocking off some of the passages or something.

Hopefully, I've given you enough to think about. I'm running out of ideas.

chris north

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 11:20:08 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 460
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Steve Strange builds 460's with a stock oil pump for marine applications =
using nitrous. (he is well known for his 460's, and is considered an =
authority.) i still went with a better pump for my own security though =
it costs about 5 HP to run a high volume pump. in my current build i =
have a melling pump that shows almost 80 psi at cold startup. once warm =
it drops to 55 or so at idle. running rpm, even warm it will run back =
up to between 70 and 75. this changes depending on the oil i use also. =
i used to run straight 50 weight racing oil and the change was more than =
20-50 racing oil. using amsoil or mobil 1 the change is even less yet.

i recommend before changing the pump, or risking low oil pressure, get a =
good aftermarket mechanical (i prefer over electric gauges) oil pressure =
gauge. i bought a nice set of oil and water temp gauges from summit =
very cheap (summit brand) and they work well - only they require a tap =
once in awhile. they always move for a big change, but smaller changes =
sometimes don't register unless they are tapped but the vibrations in =
the truck usually are enough.

once you have the gauge, check the actual numbers as low/medium/high =
doesn't mean much. my stock eagle talon shows low at idle, high at over =
2000 rpm, always no matter what! but they all do right from the get go.

then post the numbers it shows, it will tell us a whole lot more.

sleddog

----------
From: Rodney S. Richeson[SMTP:rricheson amxinc.com]
Sent: Monday, July 21, 1997 6:21 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 460

I have a 460 that has been rebuilt but was in a car. I put a new oil
pump and and rear sump pickup/pan. It has very good pressure when first
started up but then falls as things begins to warm up. If I stop at a
light it falls very low on the stock gauge, then goes about to the
middle after I take off again. I have moved since I purchased the oil
pump, and have procured a new Melling high volume pump, but things are
tight to change it in the vehicle.

I had another 460 in this truck and lost #6 con rod bearing and don't
want this to happen again. Bambino due any day now and the wife is
quitting work.

Thanks in advance,

Rod


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 16:20:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: SARHOG aol.com
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: engine/ heads identification
Message-ID:

I just bought a 1967 F-100 Ranger (vin# F10ACA62503) that appears to be set
up for drag racing. This being my first Ford, I am having trouble
identifying exactly what motor I have. The previous owner said it is a 460
w/ 429 heads. These are the numbers i have found:

on the heads above the exhaust ports: C8VE-E

on the front of engine block just to the
right of the crankshaft pulley: D2VE- _03_- _

( the
first blank is a 3 or an 8 )
( the
second may be a 9 )
(
cannot read the last blank at all )

Also, there is the number 73 in a small circle near the block numbers

Are these the numbers I should be looking for? If not, where are the
right ones?
Thanks for any help anyone can give, John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 13:38:10 -0700
From: John Macnamara
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: engine/ heads identification
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

SARHOG aol.com wrote:
>
> I just bought a 1967 F-100 Ranger (vin# F10ACA62503) that appears to be set
> up for drag racing. This being my first Ford, I am having trouble
> identifying exactly what motor I have. The previous owner said it is a 460
> w/ 429 heads. These are the numbers i have found:
>
> on the heads above the exhaust ports: C8VE-E
>
> on the front of engine block just to the
> right of the crankshaft pulley: D2VE- _03_- _
>
> ( the
> first blank is a 3 or an 8 )
> ( the
> second may be a 9 )
> (
> cannot read the last blank at all )
>
> Also, there is the number 73 in a small circle near the block numbers
>
> Are these the numbers I should be looking for? If not, where are the
> right ones?
> Thanks for any help anyone can give, John
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

John: On the heads, C8ve indicates year 1968 which would be the 429
heads. On the block the C2 indicates 1972 which would be a 460 block.
I'm not sure what the blanks indicate but the gentleman was correct.

Thanks! John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 427 Corvette

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 16:48:15 -0400
From: SHOman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: engine/ heads identification
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

That they are 1968 429 heads and a 1972 460 Block used in 1973 ie the
73 in a circle
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 16:24:08 +0900
From: Kevin Lindstedt
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Exhausting work...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi all,

I'd like your input on a repair I need to do. I need to replace the
cross-over pipe on my '78 F150 460/C6. The original equipment was one
piece from manifolds to the muffler. I've gotten prices around the $200
mark for a "factory-made" pipe installed. However, I got one price of $110
for a pipe "shop-made" i.e. bent/welded to suit and installed. Should I be
concerned about the quality of this pipe versus the "factory-made" (not
Ford) one? I know that for best "breathing" I should be running headers
and dual-pipes, but can't afford that route right now.

Thanks in advance.

Kevin
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 18:31:00 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: engine/ heads identification
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

you have '68 heads, not CJ heads. these heads have 76cc chambers (about =
11.5:1 with flat top pistons). the block is a '72 or later casting - =
they didn't change much after 72 for a couple of years. before 72 has 3 =
different deck hieghts.

sounds like a good one. those are the "good" non CJ heads. according =
to the casting number, these are not CJ heads, but ford made many =
mistakes and sometimes casting numbers do not tell all. i bought a set =
that by casting number was 73 460 police heads, but they had the small =
valves and the police haeds have bigger valves in 1973. like i said, =
the nos. don't always tell the truth.

sleddog





----------
From: SARHOG aol.com[SMTP:SARHOG aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 1997 12:20 PM
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: engine/ heads identification

I just bought a 1967 F-100 Ranger (vin# F10ACA62503) that appears to be =
set
up for drag racing. This being my first Ford, I am having trouble
identifying exactly what motor I have. The previous owner said it is a =
460
w/ 429 heads. These are the numbers i have found:

on the heads above the exhaust ports: C8VE-E

on the front of engine block just to the=20
right of the crankshaft pulley: D2VE- _03_- =
_

( =
the
first blank is a 3 or an 8 )
( =
the
second may be a 9 ) =20
(
cannot read the last blank at all )

Also, there is the number 73 in a small circle near the block =
numbers

Are these the numbers I should be looking for? If not, where are =
the
right ones?
Thanks for any help anyone can give, John =20



____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 20:05:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bj2797 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: All this and still HOT!!
Message-ID:

Exactly!
First check to see the actual temp. If you know of somone with a hand held
laser thermometer , this will give you an exact temp of your eng. First
determine where your problem is before you throw parts at it! It will save
you in the long run.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 20:19:01 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: ADMIN NEWS: Please read
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

No word yet from the potential advertiser (they seem to take 2-3
business days to reply to any of my messages). I'll keep everyone
posted.

***Everyone read this***

Over the next few days I am going to remove duplicate names from our
subscription list. Sometimes through either a mistake of mine or
of someone subscribing a person gets onto the same list twice. I
don't mean being on the live list and receiving digest also. I
mean actually being on either the digest or live subscriber list
twice. This doesn't necessarily mean you get two copies of each
message but it does mean I don't get an accurate count of the
number of subscribers. If you receive a message stating that you've
been unsubscibed you can ignore it. This message is only a notice
sent from the list server when I remove the duplicate address.
We are nearing a monumental point in our growth: 1,000 subscribers
and I want to make sure the 1000th really is the 1000th as I am
currently working on a history file for our list. It will be on the
web site this weekend.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)
fordtrucks lofcom.com is the 1979 and older truck list,
fordtrucks80up lofcom.com is the 1980 and newer truck list..
(Email me if you're on the wrong list)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 20:18:53 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
To:
Cc:
Subject: 9'' rear id
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi John: Will mail out in the morning, and it won't cost you a dime. Glad
to help. That's the way it is done in restoration circles. Pass info on
to someone whenever you are knowledgeable about someone's question. It
keeps the info flowing. Thanks, Lee

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 19:39:42 +0000
From: "Rodney S. Richeson"
To: Ford Mailing List
Subject: 460
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks for the advice on a mechanical guage. I installed one tonite and
found out some interesting info. At idle, when warmed up, I have 27-28
psi. At anyhting above 2000 rpm I have 56-58 psi. This sounds to me
like acceptable values to me. I also hooked up the coolant temp guage,
in the stock location, and it stays right at 190 degrees, except when
sitting at a stoplight, it creeps up a little. Am I getting a correct
reading in this location for what is really going on?

thanks again,

Rod

77.5 F-250 4X4
Big Blocks forever

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 10:26:34 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
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> OK. Your motor must be producing more heat. How? 1) Running lean. 2)
> Too high compression. 3) Ingnition timing too advanced. 4) Head gasket
> leaking 5) Valve timing off (I'm not sure which way). 6) Exhaust
> restriction. Anybody know any other reasons?
>
> Any recent motor work? A vacuum leak will lead directly to a lean
> condition. Head rebuilds can raise compression. So can carbon build-up.
> How are your points? Have you put in a new cam? Are you loosing
> coolant/have excessive water in your exhaust? Try running a compression
> check (you can probably buy a compression gage for less than a water pump
> ;^)
>
> My question is "are you really overheating?" If you are, you should be
> pinging and detonating. Big time. With the engine 'hot' punch it in 1st
> gear from a stop. Does it ping and sound like a diesel? If so, they you
> are overheating. If not, then either your gauge is screwy or your sensor
> is in a 'bad' location. By bad location, I mean that for some reason, the
> coolant at the location of the sensor is hotter than the bulk coolant.
> Gasket blocking off some of the passages or something.
>
> Hopefully, I've given you enough to think about. I'm running out of ideas.
>
> chris north

Ok I'm running 12:1 + static compression with 108 degrees of valve
overlap and an advertised duration of 282/294 .020 4 0 advance with
a start advance of 18 btdc and a full advance at 38 btdc. My heads are
milled at .060 with 140c/298o valve set pressure.

So how hot should it run?

Molater

Daver

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