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fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 114

Today's Topics:

Re: 1966 F100 Performance strategy a [Don Grossman ]
sputtering 390 [calvinry argohouston.com (Robert Co]
Re: Intake Manifold [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: sputtering 390 [Ken Payne ]
Re: Turn Signals [Ken Payne ]
Re: seat belts [Ken Payne ]
460 Swap [reedg ns2.cetlink.net ]
Re: Big Block? [Daver ]
Re: Holley on a 360 [Daver ]
F 150 COILS [Mac ]
Re: Intake Manifold [Daver ]
Re: Big Block? [William Sabers
Re: seat belts ["George Shepherd"
Re: Dual Exhaust Balance Pipe [Daver ]
Re: Intake Manifold [Daver ]
Re: 48 Ford F-1 Restoration [kel-cel ccinet.ab.ca (kel-cel ) ]
Ranchero Motor Transplant [Randy Dees ]
Re: sputtering 390 [rick adc.com (Rick Larson) ]
Re: Ranchero Motor Transplant [rick adc.com (Rick Larson) ]
RE: 460 Swap [Kevin Kemmerer ]

Administrivia:

____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request lofcom.com
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____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 14:04:53 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1966 F100 Performance strategy advice requested
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

J. Olson wrote:
>
> Rick Larson of Minneapolis suggested I repost my questions I originally
> posted on . Thanks Rick.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> I own a 1966 F100, four speed 352, 2WD, in very good, original, condition.
> In some ways I feel a bit guilty about what I am about to do to it:
> customize. My goal is to make it more urban drive-able, especially
> more economical to drive. I use it as a working truck carrying
> construction materials about 2-3 days a week, otherwise it is a city
> commute vehicle.
>
> I plan to put on an Edelbrock Performer Power Package (intake manifold
> EDL-2105, camshaft kit EDL-2106, 600cfm electric chock carb EDL-1406,
> timing chain and gears EDL-7808), Headers (perhaps Flowtech 12540), wheels
> and tires.

Just something to think of here. You are planning on adding lots of
goodies that are going to add some power to your engine. How is the
rest of the engine? Block? Heads? Cooling system? It would be a
shame to add all these and have the crank drop out the bottom end or put
a rod through the block. Other than that it sounds like a great plan.

>
> What else can/should I do?
>
> Power steering assist?

This would make those parking lots a little more manageable and a good
source is the wrecking yard.

> Disc brakes?

Increase your stopping power since you are adding to your go power.
While at the U-Yank-it pick yourself up a set of spindles, hubs,
mastercylinder, and one of those valve things.

> Power brakes?

You can grab a booster off the same truck or add anytime. It is a
direct bolt in and real easy to do.

> Rear end/transmission? (I almost never need the granny gear and would love
> to have a higher gear in 4th.)

If you are tired of the four speed you could go to a slush box, but
someone else on the list will have to come up with a source for one with
the FE bellhousing pattern. Go with the C6 if you can find one. Grab a
steering coloum with the gear shifter on it for that factory look.

>
> I've already got an electronic ignition.
>
> Thanks,
>
> J. Olson
> Seattle/Bremerton WA
> olson u.washington.edu

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

The scene;

Bunch of NASA guys looking at TV monitor.

"Look, A ROCK!"


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 17:17:42 -0700
From: calvinry argohouston.com (Robert Cook)
To: ford trucks
Subject: sputtering 390
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

could someone tell me what the h*ll is wrong with my 74. It sputters on
initial acceleration. I've changed the fuel filter , fuel pump points ,
condensor,rotor and the spark plugs. The only thing I have not checked
is the strainer in the tank. The strainer may be plugged because I tried
to seal my fuel sending unit float with fuel tank repair putty and might
not have let it set long enough.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Robert Cook

PS A DIRECT E-MAIL would be appreciated at :calvinry argohouston.com
if to much trouble no problem
thanx robert

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 17:40:56 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>> I am trying to find parts to increase performance for a '78 351M
>> engine. Carb, intake manifold, heads and camshaft. To be honest I
>> haven't worked on alot of ford engines. And I haven't been able to
>> find much info on the 351M. Any help would he HIGHLY appreciated.
>
>Okay, So my engine is a slug. However that is what I have to work
>with.

>I don't plan on pulling oak trees up by the roots, but I do plan on
>going fishing in some pretty remote spots.
>If the 351M is not worth rebuilding, I guess I could get a short
>block 351W or 400. The parts that you can interchange between ford
>engines are somewhat confusing. Just what is it about the 351M that
>makes it a slug?

Unless You need big HP and wanna spend bux and time on a swap, I think
You should keep the 351M. I hear lotsa bad words about the 351M here
and some are based on fact, but the 351M is *NOT* that horrible.
It is a good, reliable workhorse motor.
The big problem with a 351M is that is a -destroked- 400, the 400 isn't
light to start with, so You end up with a motor with the power of a 351
in a package that's nearly the size and weight of a 460...
This doesn't make it very popular with hotrodders, so there's not much
performance stuff available.
Still, it's not a *bad* motor (just overly heavy) and responds to the same
tricks as other motors and they can perform pretty well if You aren't
after all out performance and don't mind the weight penalty too much.

If You just wanna wake up a running, useable motor then headers, cam,
and intake manifold and carb will help a bunch.
If You are rebuilding it as well then stick the 400 crank in it and
collect Your extra 49 cid... (-:
That will also help bring up the compression, which ain't that hot on
stock 351M. High compression pistons may not be *readily* available for
the 351M, but milling the heads some would help.

If I was gonna *pick* a motor for my truck the 351M wouldn't be my
choice, but if I had a running truck with one in it I wouldn't
hesitate to pump it up a bit.

If You want BIG power, the 429/460 is certainly a *much* better platform
to start from. It bolt's right up and makes as much power stock as You are
likely to get from a built 400, but if You aren't into motor swapping
and just want to have good torque and adequate power to beat around the
backroads, a warmed up 351M is fine especially if You rebuild it to 400cid...
I've been behind a mildly built 400 in a big Ford wagon that pulled
*very* hard. Maybe not like a 429/460 or big FE, but....

Edelbrock has cams, intakes, etc for 351M/400
Try www.edelbrock.com

If You aren't too power hungry and don't wanna do a motor swap then
just make the most of what You've got and *ENJOY* it.

Happy motoring,


Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 20:50:54 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Cc: calvinry argohouston.com
Subject: Re: sputtering 390
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 05:17 PM 7/14/97 -0700, you wrote:
>could someone tell me what the h*ll is wrong with my 74. It sputters on
>initial acceleration. I've changed the fuel filter , fuel pump points ,
>condensor,rotor and the spark plugs. The only thing I have not checked
>is the strainer in the tank. The strainer may be plugged because I tried
>to seal my fuel sending unit float with fuel tank repair putty and might
>not have let it set long enough.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> Robert Cook
>
>PS A DIRECT E-MAIL would be appreciated at :calvinry argohouston.com
>if to much trouble no problem
> thanx robert

Sounds like the accelerator pump is in need of a rebuild. When you
first hit the gas the engine goes very lean momentarily, enough
to cause a momentary lag or sputter. The accelerator pump squirts
gas into the carb whenever you "give it gas" to compensate. First,
make sure its hooked up. There is an arm on the side of the carb
that should reach around to the front. It moves a piston on the
front which drives the pump. If its hooked up, take off the air
cleaner and give the throttle a few good pumps by hand. You should
either: see a gas mist, smell gas, or be able to see some gas in
the carb throat. If not, get a rebuild kit, once you get the kit
you'll see its fairly straightforward to fix it.

-Ken
List Admin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 22:32:59 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Turn Signals
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 05:22 PM 7/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello to everyone, You have all been very helpful with my 1951 F-1. I
>have another question for all. I have a turn signal unit on the column
>of my 51 f-1 and it didn't work, well lo and behold the wires were all
>cut under the dash. Does anyone know or have a schematic diagram of the
>turn signal units. I have determined the switch arrangement of all the
>wires, I just don't know exactly how the flasher unit works, etc...
>Thanks for any help
>
>Bill Hendrickson
>billjhs excaliber.com
>

If you don't get an answer, email me. My library has a book
which has the diagrams.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)
fordtrucks lofcom.com is the 1979 and older truck list,
fordtrucks80up lofcom.com is the 1980 and newer truck list..
(Email me if you're on the wrong list)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 22:34:44 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: seat belts
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 11:41 AM 7/14/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Hello to all
>
>I'm in the the middle of my current project
>a 77 F-150 ranger, a complete frame off resto.
>and I need seat belts, ford is no help, the guy at
>the parts counter does not even know what a 77
>looks like, I think he should be fired for that, anyway
>does anyone know what other years might work
>for the
>shoulder belts, the webbing is messed up on mine
>

73-79 should work. JC Whitney (gag!) has aftermarket
units but their not cheap. Also, many of the full
size Ford cars had similar belts.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)
fordtrucks lofcom.com is the 1979 and older truck list,
fordtrucks80up lofcom.com is the 1980 and newer truck list..
(Email me if you're on the wrong list)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 22:16:39 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 460 Swap
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

I know I must sound like a totally 'wet behind the ears' newbie.
That's because I am.
Is a 460 out of a lincoln the same as a truck engine?
If it isn't then what would it take to convert it? Camshaft?
Is $400 too much for it if it 'seems' to run alright?
I don't know what year it is yet, but the guy's mother said it was
"old".
What would I look for in a 460?
What would it take to put it in a '78 f150 4x4?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 10:33:23 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Big Block?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Dave & Syd Murray wrote:
>
> Hi there.
> I'm new here so don't know if this will work but here goes.
> So a 390 is a big block of the Y config. and is in the family FE, and a 460
> is just a big block. So what is the 351M?
>
> 79, 3/4 Super Cab. 351M
>
> It is socially and morally unacceptable to allow fools to keep their money

There are three basic BB ford engine families and I'll use the
catigories most recognised here.

FE's the original FoMoCo BB and includes the following.
332, 352, 360, 361, 390, 391, 406, 410, 427 and 428.

The Cleveland family includes the following.
351C, 351-Boss, 351M and 400.

The "385" family includes the following.
385 (I have never seen one of these but...), 429, 429-Boss and 460.

hope this answers the question.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 10:39:08 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Holley on a 360
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Chris Le Roy wrote:
>
> I have a '69 360 with a Holley 4150, 600CFM. It has never run real good,
> always rich. Can anyone recommend primary and secondary jet sizes? It is
> basically stock (cam, crank, ign.) except for an Edelbrock Performer RPM
> intake (the stock manifold makes a pretty good anchor). What about spring
> for the vacuum secondaries?
> If anyone has some wiring schematics for the 69 F 100, I would also be
> interested.
> Thanks, Chris
>
> "69 F-100, 360-spd

My opinion no. 55 jets a 8.5 power valve and NEW floats and float
valves. If it is percing on you (spiting up fuel all over the place)
the floats probably need to be set lowered and I recomend a fuel
regulator (Puralator makes a good inexpensive one) to control fuel
pressure to avoid over powering floats.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 00:52:41 -0700
From: Mac
To: FORDTRUCKS
Subject: F 150 COILS
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey guy's I need some help. I just put a 351W in my 79 F 150 and
since I have changed the motor seems to make a difference in ride height
compared to the original 302.
I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions on coils. Should I
use OEM or is there a better working coil from a different model type??
Open to ideas. Thanx in advance


Malcolm O'Blenis
1979 Ford F 150 Custom 351Windsor

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 10:49:44 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> Dont waste your money on a 351M, it is a slug and that is all there is
> to it. It is a Gas hog that cannot make horse power. The 400 is not
> much better. If your going to spend on something, find a pre 72 429 or
> 460. A 2v 429 had over 400 ftlbs of torque. These engines will bolt up
> to your trans too. If you have allready built your 351M then Edelbrock
> makes a Performer Manifold for the 351M/400. I had a 400 with this
> manifold and a 650 dbl pumper Holly on it, and it ran very good. But
> when my friend in his stock 1970 LTD Country Squire with a 100,000
> mile plus 429 blew the doors off my 72 Ranch with a 400 with the 4V
> manifold and dbl pumper carb and the 290 duration Cam, it was time for
> a change. DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY!!!!!!!!
>

FE's Rule!!!!!

The King is dead LONG live the king.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 22:54:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: William Sabers
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Big Block?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 14 Jul 1997, Daver wrote:

> Dave & Syd Murray wrote:
> >
> > Hi there.
> > I'm new here so don't know if this will work but here goes.
> > So a 390 is a big block of the Y config. and is in the family FE, and a 460
> > is just a big block. So what is the 351M?
> >
> > 79, 3/4 Super Cab. 351M
> >
> > It is socially and morally unacceptable to allow fools to keep their money
>
> There are three basic BB ford engine families and I'll use the
> catigories most recognised here.
>
> FE's the original FoMoCo BB and includes the following.
> 332, 352, 360, 361, 390, 391, 406, 410, 427 and 428.
>
> The Cleveland family includes the following.
> 351C, 351-Boss, 351M and 400.


Just a note here,
the Cleveland family spans both small and Big Block motors. The
351 Cleveland and 351 Boss are Small blocks, whereas the 351 M & 400 are
large
blocks. These engines are noted for a low deck height, and Canted Valves
on the heads. The small blocks share little in common with the 351
Windsor, However, if you get a pair of cleveland or Boss heads, it
will make any Windsor motor a better breathin' machine (even the 2bbl
heads!)






>
> The "385" family includes the following.
> 385 (I have never seen one of these but...), 429, 429-Boss and 460.
>
> hope this answers the question.
>
> Molater
>
> Daver
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 23:00:53 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: seat belts
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

You might try Snake-oyl. They reweb mustang seat belts and advertise in all
the mustang magazines. I think they are in Keller, Tx.

----------
> From: Jon
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: seat belts
> Date: Monday, July 14, 1997 2:41 PM
>
> Hello to all
>
> I'm in the the middle of my current project
> a 77 F-150 ranger, a complete frame off resto.
> and I need seat belts, ford is no help, the guy at
> the parts counter does not even know what a 77
> looks like, I think he should be fired for that, anyway
> does anyone know what other years might work
> for the
> shoulder belts, the webbing is messed up on mine
>
> TIA
>
> jon
> URJB Racing ...Because walking sucks!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.urjb.com/
>
> Undocumented Windows 95 Error Codes:
>
> WinErr 014: Keyboard locked - Try anything you can think of.
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 10:58:23 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust Balance Pipe
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Jim Strigas wrote:
>
> I'll buy that one Jim! here's what I was told!
> When one exhaust was under pressure the other would have a
> void! A balance tube would allow the void side to draw from
> the pressure side and vice versa increasing flow! the way
> you determined where the balance tube went was to run the
> engine until a discoloration appeared on the exhaust tube
> that indicated the point of the greatest heat and pressure!
> If you add that the pressure just goes back and forth in the
> balance tube, the two theory/folklore's are vary close!
> That's the great thing about theory/folklore it's
> documented fact that people swear by, as gospel, just don't
> know for sure if it's right! Case in point, When I had the
> duel exhaust put on my truck I was told that I wouldn't
> benefit by one because I had to little back pressure! Shorty
> Headers, 2.25" tube, '73 so no cats, turbo mufflers 4" after
> the mufflers they dump down, a ways before the rear-end!
> This logic goes against both theory/folklore's! Go figure! I
> will say a balance tube wouldn't be detrimental even if the
> latter is correct! This one's just my own! Any more?
>
> Jim Strigas

I agree I have seen both schools of thoughtand under certain conditions
either will work. I got tired of arguing about it so I plumbed mine
with 3" all the way and free flow mufflers, flows pretty good.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 11:04:04 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tim and Jolee Hann wrote:
>
> The 351M is a byproduct of the early 400 engine. The prob with trying
> to built a 351M engine is that you are limited on what you can do to
> it. You can do heads and cams but you cant buy pistons.

I can get 12 to 1's for that engine brand new at 65.00 a pop and they
are of the forged variety.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 22:25:56 -0600 (MDT)
From: kel-cel ccinet.ab.ca (kel-cel )
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 48 Ford F-1 Restoration
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I have just inherited my late grandfather's ford (1947 or 48?)
It has never been repainted. The interior and exterior color
are red, and the interior trim is all cream(?) and the seat is
gray/tweed.
Let me know if you have any parts suppliers or reference materials
that would apply to mine.
As for what the color would be on a dk. green truck, I assume it also would be
Cream (or tan?)
Kelly.


>Does anyone know what color interior (headliner and seat) were original for
a dark green 1948 Ford F-1 pickup? Perhaps there were several combinations
available. I am also looking for a dip-stick for its 226 engine and a
stearing wheel. Thanks, Paul Clegg. paulc transera.com
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
>
-- The Spongbergs --
Kelly, Colleen, & Dallas

"Keep your stick on the ice."
Red Green (aka Steve Smith)

email - kel-cel ccinet.ab.ca

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 08:37:37 -0400
From: Randy Dees
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Ranchero Motor Transplant
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi!

I drive a '68 Ranchero, currently with a 200/3 spd. I have just
acquired a 302 out of an 84 Crown Vic - I pick the motor up this week
for free. I know it needs rebuilt, but am thinking of dropping it
into my Ranchero to give a little more power (I hate it when I can't
move a dead Chevy with my Ford!).

The motor was originally fuel injected, but has problems with the
throttle body. I'd like to just replace it with an Edelbrock
manifold & carb. Is this likely to work?

I'd also like to find a 5 spd tranny for it - anyone know if I can
expect to find one that will work?

Thanks

--
Randy Dees| SCA: Talorgen ni Wrguist
ASI Systems Administration| a bard, formerly known as Myrddyn
Pr 14:12 There is a way which seemeth right unto a man, but the end
thereof are the ways of death

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 09:34:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: sputtering 390
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ken writes about Robert's sputtering 390:

> Sounds like the accelerator pump is in need of a rebuild. When you
...
> If its hooked up, take off the air
> cleaner and give the throttle a few good pumps by hand. You should
> either: see a gas mist, smell gas, or be able to see some gas in
> the carb throat. If not, get a rebuild kit, once you get the kit
> you'll see its fairly straightforward to fix it.

Or maybe a simple linkage cleaning. I know on my 2100, I needed
to clean the 26 years of sticky/tar like oil/grease/something from
the linkage to get the pump linkage and spring clean. I'd check
this before a rebuild.

rick
'66 Mustang
'71 F100 *Custom* daily driver
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com
Minneapolis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 09:39:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ranchero Motor Transplant
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Randy,
>
> Hi!
>
> I drive a '68 Ranchero, currently with a 200/3 spd. I have just
> acquired a 302 out of an 84 Crown Vic - I pick the motor up this week
> for free. I know it needs rebuilt, but am thinking of dropping it
> into my Ranchero to give a little more power (I hate it when I can't
> move a dead Chevy with my Ford!).

[snip]

You may want to consider upgrading to front discs. I've read
that Granada/Monarch spindles/rotors/calipers/tie rod ends are a
direct bolt in. I've done this conversion on my Mustang and it
is pretty straight forward. For more info check out:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.vintage-mustang.com/topics/faq/drumtodisk.html

rick
'66 Mustang/'71 F100
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com
Minneapolis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 10:48:05 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 460 Swap
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

first, it is not that hard to do a 460 swap. in my area (eastern pa) =
$400 ain't a bad price. if the heads or block casting numbers start =
with c8,c9,d0, or d, the price here would be good just for a bare block =
or heads. very much more if the block number ended in A1A.

what to look for? well, what do you want the motor to do for you? for =
performance a 429CJ heads would be a great find. these have bigger =
valves and ports. for good torque and hp the '73 police heads had stock =
ports,but slightly larger valves. these heads are great street truck =
heads but are getting very rare.

the heads from 69-70 can make better compression. these are considered =
the early engines. there are some minor differences throughout the =
years, but compression is the biggest change, untill the feul injected =
ones came out. even so, if the one you are looking at is a 78 (let's =
say for argument) car engine, then in order to put it in the truck the =
oil pan must be changed to a truck/van pan (rear sump pan) and a new oil =
pickup tube to match pan and the right dipstick. then the previous =
holes for the dipstick in the timing chain cover must be plugged or the =
parts swapped for the truck/van parts. that's really it to get the =
motor turned into a truck motor! oh, also you'll have to get headers =
(not usually cheap for this swap), unless you can find the right iron =
manifolds that are not cracked for a good price --- GOOD LUCK for that =
though!

this year motor wouldn't be a great performer (stock), especially if it =
is a 2 bbl motor ,but with a 280 cam, a 600 cfm 4bbl, headers, and 2 =
1/2" exhaust it wil wake up nicely. new intake and bigger carb, bigger =
cam (292), and sloppily hog out the big lump in the exhaust port and it =
will surprise you. increase compesion to 10 to 1 (will run on pump gas =
if the heads are properly polished in the combustion chamber) and 480 hp =
and over 500lbsft torque are easy to make and more. (my 68 429 in a 77 =
f150 4x4 returned 10mpg towm and could smoke the tires (33" mudders, =
3.50 gears, C6) forever, or with a little less pedal, blow away some BB =
chevy muscle cars and small block screamers that thought a 4x4 was a =
slow target! my 79 f350 4x4 with a late model (can't remember year, but =
late 70's) 460, granny tranny, 410 gears, low compression (less than =
9.5:1), weind stealth intake, 292 comp cams, totally stock heads, bottom =
end, etc, and an edelbrock carb, headers, fomoco ignition, runs like a =
much bigger engine than it really is. enough torque to pull stumps and =
still turns 6500 rpm on the street quick enough to make some people tell =
me they thought it was a very well built small block after i ripped =
through the gears. and it still returned over 10 mpg with 4.10 gears, =
30" tires, and a lead foot(ME!).

even a stock 460 will give nice performance, but really, everyone likes =
when the loud pedal makes things happen really fast, really quick.

sleddog

....

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