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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 132

Today's Topics:

RE: FE oiling continued [DC Beatty
VIN [rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier) ]
1977 Ranchero gas tank question [Morocco Mole ]
Re: Radiator Rust [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
RE: FE oiling continued [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: Radiator Rust [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Intro ["B.A.Dickinson"
intro/Parting out 69 F-250. [James Oxley ]
Re: 1977 Ranchero gas tank question [Flipper ]
Noisy 352 [AM14 chrysler.com ]
Re: VIN [OldTrux aol.com ]
Re: VIN [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
52 F-1 colour code [Randall Colgan
Re: Radiator Rust [Randy Collins ]
Re: Intro Reply ["Wagger" ]
NOISY 352 [T6007AM chrysler.com ]
1970 Ford F-100 [SMOKEY5209 aol.com ]
disc brake swap info [rick adc.com (Rick Larson) ]
ADMIN: I'm back [Ken Payne ]
Re: ADMIN: I'm back [BillyCIII aol.com ]

Administrivia:

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For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request lofcom.com
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____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: 04 Jun 97 22:46:29 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: FE oiling continued
Message-ID:

OK. First let me say that I appreciate all the help. I will try to keep this as
concise and uncomplicated as possible:

I bought the truck last year and have been working on it when I have time. As I
stated during the thing with the crossmember (which was totally missing),
everything the previous owner did to the truck he did half-assed, if done at
all.

When I got it, it had a severe oil leak out of the back of the engine. It turned
out that whoever rebuilt the motor (probably 8 or so years ago) installed the
welch plug at the back of the camshaft backward (i.e. cup facing away from the
block). The cam wore on it and pushed it out into the bellhousing. Judging by
the oil slick all the way back to the tailgate, the guy drove it around for
quite some time like this. I cuss him out loud.

On top of this, he apparently never changed oil. The head covers were leaking
badly, and what I thought to be old gaskets turned out to be the oil drainback
holes in the heads completely plugged up with crap. I reamed them out with a
screwdriver and blew compressed air in them, but apparently they are still
clogged. I fired it up yesterday and it was leaking on both sides. So...

What I am thinking is this: I thought that the oil drained back from the heads
into the lifter galleries, and that, since these holes are still plugged up, the
lifters weren't getting oil and were making big noise. This is what I am hoping
for. But since Mr. Lazy Guy ran the truck without fixing the oil leak via the
welch plug, it would seem prudent to believe that the top end suffered a great
deal from reduced oil pressure sustained over time, and that the lifters might
be shot. This is why I was asking how the lifters got oiled.

The truck fires right up and runs good, but the lifters clatter a-lot. I do not
think that they are solid lifters, in fact I doubt it. I believe it's the
original motor. It doesn't seem to burn oil, except when it is pouring over the
exhaust manifolds via the head covers. It is sludged however. If all that I have
to do to get it to be a dependable truck is to change out the lifters I would be
very happy. I was just trying to take the moderate course first, thinking that
the lifters would shut up a-lot if I corrected any oil flow problems.

Also, the truck sat for a long time (maybe two years) before I got it and it has
been sitting almost the whole time that I have had it (since June last year).
Could a bunch of the valves be sticking or stuck?? Would that make the same type
of ticking noise as slop between the lifters and pushrods??

Any suggestions???
Again, it's a 1967 352 2bbl.


DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302


----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 1997 7:00 AM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE oiling

DC Beatty wrote:
> > Can someone tell me how oil gets to the lifters in an FE? My guess is that
it> runs down through the drainback holes in the heads and into the lifter
gallery.> Is this the case?
> > My lifters are making noise and my drainback holes are plugged up and I am>
hoping the two are related.

kpayne mindspring.com
DC: At the risk of sounding stupid, is it possible that you have solid
lifters in your motor. Because if you did, then the oil passages would
be blocked or non existant. Early 352 motors ran solid lifters and
since you didn't mention whether it was the original engine.

Just a thought!

John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette 427


____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Jun 1997 22:03:08 -0800
From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: VIN
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Bill writes:
"Does anybody know the laws in the US concerning vehicles without VIN
plates on the firewall, I am looking at a 1949 Ford with no VIN plate on
the thing. If anybody has any ideas please e-mail me. Thanks "

Bill,
In general Ford does not put the VIN number on the firewall. There may be a few exceptions to this but I know of none. What you are referring to as the VIN is also known as the engine number (which Ford has never put on the engines either). This is the number that should appear on your car (or truck) title, and consists of the model number of your vehicle followed by a serial number that was sequentally assigned at the factory.

On the older Fords that have frames, the VIN is stamped on the frame in two places. One place will be on the top of the frame usually near the steering box on the drivers side, but on some years it is on the other side. The other will be on top of the frame over the rear axle. This one usually is not visible unless the body is lifted from the frame. The numbers will be about 3/16 inches high, and you will probably need to clean the grease off the area and scrub it with scotchbrite or light sandpaper to see the numbers. A lot of people claim the FBI has a list of where to find the number stamps for each specific year but I cannot verify that.

Good hunting,
Roger Meier


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Jun 1997 23:32:39 -0800
From: Morocco Mole
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1977 Ranchero gas tank question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Just subscribed to the list and am not much of a mechanic so please
excuse the following questions if they seem simple.

1. How much of a job is it to drop the fuel tank out of the
1977 Ford Ranchero? The tank evidently needs to be cleaned.
A bit of rust is clogging up the fuel filter. Any "tricks"
to make the job easier?

2. Is there a drain plug in this tank?

The Ranchero is a GT, 181,000 original miles and still putting
along. It's all original.

Thanks for the help.

Frank Connelly
Seattle, WA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 12:38:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Radiator Rust
Message-ID:

My .02: When I was in navy a number of years ago, we used what was call
"soluable oil" in the diesels to keep rust out.
Now I think there are a number of products out ther to help to keep rust out
of the cooling system.
I use a 50/50 mix of quality coolant and don't have problems in my '56 with a
302.
I recently saw an ad for a zink anoid the fits in the radiator below the cap.
I use zink anoids on the outdrive on my boat to keep down the corrosion. I
don't know if this is a good idea or not in a radiator.
Anyway, that's what I think. For what it's worth.
Lance

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 09:53:02 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: FE oiling continued
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>OK. First let me say that I appreciate all the help. I will try to keep this as
>concise and uncomplicated as possible:
>
This how you make your job as concise and uncomplicated as possible, without
touching the bottom end, which you seem to say is pooched:

First of all, this is how you tell if you have hyd lifters or not w/o
ripping off the intake manifold: take off a valve cover. Does the rocker
arm have an adjusting screw on it or not? If not, you have hydraulic
lifters. If that's the case, the noise could be, discounting any bottom end
noise,

-noisy timing chain
-worn/bent pushrod
-worn/bent rocker, stuck rocker on shaft
-sticky hyd lifter
-worn cam
-a combination of the above

Here's what I suggest you do if you love your 352: buy a decent rv cam,
lifters, pushrods (make sure you take in an old one to get the right length)
and a timing chain (true roller) and replace all that. Or, if you want to
do the job more cheaply (so as not to say half-assed 8^>) just do the
lifters and pushrods. This job is EASY except the part about removing the
intake manifold. Make sure you loosen and torque down the rocker shafts in
the exact way specified by the manual or you will bend them. \

Now, if you really want a decent motor, then get yourself an unbuilt 390,
take the nice forged crank out of your 352, get it turned down for a 390,
throw away the cast 390 crank, and build yourself a bombproof torque
monster. That would be the way I'd go altho you'd be out a ride for a
little while.

good luck


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 10:00:58 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Radiator Rust
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Hello Fred,

I have an FE engine which doesn't seem to make any crud at all. Hm. It
seems that you have some kind of a rusting problem that won't go away. As
with everything, once it starts to rust it just keeps on going and going and
going.
I use pure antifreeze and it works real well.

As for your truck, I can only state the obvious. Flush it out real good.
In fact, flush it out maybe annually, given the troubles you're having. BTW
I assume this problem is with your '70 and not your '89. If it's the '70,
use the regular green antifreeze. Actually, here's another suggestion: if
you go to cummins or to navistar or something, and get some of their
antifreeze, it should work good--diesel engines are ENORMOUS so whatever
they put in their stuff (if anything) should work fine. (come to think of
it we just ran prestone in all our trucks...) If it's the '89, then I
dunno, there may be some aluminum parts in there too that need other
corrosion protection.

Oh well, my two cents worth, and just barely

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Jun 97 10:32:07
From: "B.A.Dickinson"
To: "fordtrucks lofcom.com"
Subject: Intro
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi,

I'm a new member of the group. I joined three days ago. I'm new to
this group but, I'm an old Ford truck guru and a long time member of Jeep-L.
So, I'm not much of a nubbie. I had a '76 Ford Truck (390 hot-rod with C-6
auto and an unconverted NP203 transfer case that worked fabulously on and
off road, 6 inches of lift with BFG 35/12.50 AT TA's) that was my passion
when I lived in Florida but, I sold it for what seemed like good reasons at
the time. Sound familiar? I am also a Jeep man and an all around Chevy
hater.
I now live in Issaquah, Washington (Seattle Area) and own a 1985
Jeep XJ 4x4 that got me out here from Florida and will go just about
anywhere. I am about to buy a '73-'79 Ford locally and would love to know
if there are any suggestions on where to find them. I'm looking for a later
70's (i.e. '76-'79) 1/2 ton truck with a 302 or 360-390 engine and a C-6
tranny, 4x4 of course (preferably not lifted).
This is a pretty tall order seeing as how only the '74-'76 model 1/2
tons had 302s, the '77-'79s primarily had I6,351M,400M engines, and they
discontinued the 360 in '76. BTW:C-6's weren't available in 4x4
configurations untill '75. To top this off unlike Florida it seems
NorthWesterners prefered 3/4 ton 4x4's with 4Spd Trannys back in the late
70's.
So, any suggestions on where to find such a breed would be great.
Also if your a member of the list and you live in the Seattle area let me
know. I'm not only a Hot-Rod enthusiast I'm also a Off-Road fan and would
love to get tips on Northwestern wheelin' that's good for full-size pickups
--B.A.Dickinson
badickin freenet.tlh.fl.us
'85 Jeep Wagoneer Ltd XJ
3.4L GM Performance Parts V6
W/ Edelbrock Intake and Holley 390cfm
235/75R15 BFG AT T/A's on stock Suspension
And one really faded WoodGrain Clad paint job

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 14:17:02 -0700
From: James Oxley
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: intro/Parting out 69 F-250.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Howdy.

My name is Jim (OX) and I have a 78 Bronco and 69 F-250. The Bronco
has a 4 " lift, 35's, detroit and lockright, headers, duals, Warn
XD9000i, and 351M with 4spd. I also have a 69 F-250, 360, 3 spd on col
with 57K orig miles. The body is pretty well shot, except for the bed.
The interior is in very good shape. I am selling this either whole or in
parts. I also have 69 truck factory shop manuals in almost brand new
condition.

I was wondering how close the F-100 and F-250 were in the 69 vintage??

OX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 13:34:18 -0700
From: Flipper
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Cc: Flipper BLomand.Net
Subject: Re: 1977 Ranchero gas tank question
Message-id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Morocco Mole wrote:
>
> Just subscribed to the list and am not much of a mechanic so please
> excuse the following questions if they seem simple.
>
> 1. How much of a job is it to drop the fuel tank out of the
> 1977 Ford Ranchero? The tank evidently needs to be cleaned.
> A bit of rust is clogging up the fuel filter. Any "tricks"
> to make the job easier?
>
> 2. Is there a drain plug in this tank?
>
> The Ranchero is a GT, 181,000 original miles and still putting
> along. It's all original.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Frank Connelly
> Seattle, WA
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

The easiest way to remove a gas tank is to first drive the vehicle
around until you are almost out of gas(be sure to carry a gallon or 2
with you in case you completely run out). There are two straps which go
around the gas tank; these will have to be removed. To clean the gas
tank out, use a pressure washer, or try muratic acid(brick acid). Hope
this helps.

Matt
79 F-350 4X4 460
Flipper blomand.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Jun 97 15:45:22 EDT
From: AM14 chrysler.com
To: "FOMOCO Truck B/S list"
Subject: Noisy 352
Message-Id:

Has it ever been quite, or has it always been a little noisy??? The late '58
and early '59's had solid lifters. A quich check of the rocker arms will tell
the story here. The solids had adjusting screws - the Hydraulics did not. If
you have Hydraulics, I suspect you have serious oiling problems that will be
detrimental to all areas of the crankshaft very quickly. Do you have an oil
gage or an "Idiot" light?? Very low oil pressure should be checked out before
you drive it again.

To answer your question about the path of the oil for the lifters: Hydraulics
get their oil from an oil passage thru the center of the engine (front to
rear) then divides to either side and goes thru ea lifter hole from rear to
front.

Solids get their oil as you described: Drip fed from the rockers, more or
less.

Good luck anyway.

WORKING TO BE THE BEST
Azie Magnusson
PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Chrysler.com
Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 19:35:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: OldTrux aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: VIN
Message-ID:

I have a 66 F100 4x4 with no VIN tag on door. The State Police (Illinois)
came out and found the number on the frame and put on a new vin tag. That tag
you're missing is for warranty only. It is not officially used to ID the
vehicle (in Illinois)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 20:04:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: VIN
Message-ID:

The fact that Ford stamped the VIN number on the top of the frame on the
front end of the frame can become a problem is you or someone has sub-framed
the truck.
I became aware of this when I went to register my truck after it was
sub-framed.
Fortunatly, I had a Volare sub-frame installed and that doesn't require
removing the whole front part of the frame.
Just something to think about before sub-framing.
Lance

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 20:08:45 -0600
From: Randall Colgan
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 52 F-1 colour code
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Further to my note concerning the colour code on my 52 F-1. I've rechecked
the name plate on the firewall.
There are two name plates on the firewall. One is located in the center and
it reads:

"Ford Motor Co. of Canada Ltd.
Windsor, Ontario
Engine No. on block Model F-1
Trim 14 Paint 22
Serial BDA83A HP-12452" (Please note quotes)

The other (smaller) name plate is located (again on the firewall) on the
passenger side reads:

"Style C2C-81A
Body No. 4582
CBFP-655
22"

I couldn't find anything on either door or glove compartment (except door on
glovebox tells the Max GVW of 4700 pounds)

The only thing I can think of why the colour code is a number opposed to a
letter is that the truck was built in Canada.
It looks as though the colour could have been army green. Was army green a
colour option back in 52?


>>I have a color code of "22" on my 52 F-1 name plate on the firewall. Does
>>anyone happen to know what color this is?
>>
>The codes I show for '52 are all letters. The closest thing is "SS" for
>special paint - could this be what you have? All the other letters are
>single (ex. - 'A' = Black).
>
>John
================
Randall Colgan
Civil Engineering
University of Alberta
Edmonton, Alberta
'52 Ford F-1 Truck
================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 23:20:24 -0700
From: Randy Collins
To: "'FORDTRUCKS'"
Subject: Re: Radiator Rust
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Fellas,

A little info on Zinc Anodes: =20

A zinc anode suspended in the radiator will prevent radiator corrosion =
as long as the radiator is manufactured of materials less noble than the =
zinc anode. However if there is any aluminum in the radiator the =
reverse is true. The aluminum will corrode and keep the zinc in nice =
condition. Keep in mind that when the zinc is suspended it must be in =
contact with the electrolyte (water or anti-freeze) and that there must =
be a metallic pathway. The zinc either needs to be in direct contact =
with the metal you are trying to protect or whatever is suspending it in =
the solution needs to be electrically conductive. =20

Soluble oil in the anti-freeze solution will not help corrosion a =
measurable amount. Adding corrosion inhibitors will help minimize =
corrosion but my guess is the nice folks at the anti-freeze packaging =
companies have done this for you. =20

Why don't you send a letter to one of the major anti-freeze packagers =
and ask them for information on long term corrosion prevention. There =
are specifications for oil, I would assume that there are specifications =
for anti-freeze. If you want, send a copy to me and I will have the =
folks in our paint lab help interpret the information. =20

For instance the Chevron 2-cycle oil I have bought for my motorcycles =
has changed a number of years ago. It now meets the specification =
TCW-III (the spec is by memory I could be off a little) the change =
introduces corrosion inhibitors, making it suitable for the cylinders of =
my Jet Skis also. My local Chevron dealer once gave me a brochure that =
explained all the oil specifications. =20

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jun 1997 06:30:33 -0600
From: "Wagger"
To:
Subject: Re: Intro Reply
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi there BA,
My names charlie and I've been on the list for a couple of months now. I
live in enumclaw. About 15 miles from you. The local "Buy&Sell and Truck
Trader papers are pretty good for finding trucks. The truck traders are
split in to 2 cats. 5999.00and less, 6000.00 and more. Have great parts
cats in them too. as far as wheelin, we live near Evans Creek off road veh.
park. About 600 acres of 1-5 rated trails. It's free and they have a 15
space free campground with pit pottys . E-mail me (if you want) and
I'll give you some directions. We try to go with 3/4 tons whenever pos.
because there are hills here everywhere and most of the backroads demand a
rugged susp. Hope to hear from you, and Welcome to Washington!
Charlie
tanya Tx3.com

----------
> From: B.A.Dickinson
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Intro
> Date: Thursday, June 05, 1997 4:32 AM
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm a new member of the group. I joined three days ago. I'm new to
> this group but, I'm an old Ford truck guru and a long time member of
Jeep-L.
> So, I'm not much of a nubbie. I had a '76 Ford Truck (390 hot-rod with
C-6
> auto and an unconverted NP203 transfer case that worked fabulously on and

> off road, 6 inches of lift with BFG 35/12.50 AT TA's) that was my passion

> when I lived in Florida but, I sold it for what seemed like good reasons
at
> the time. Sound familiar? I am also a Jeep man and an all around Chevy
> hater.
> I now live in Issaquah, Washington (Seattle Area) and own a 1985
> Jeep XJ 4x4 that got me out here from Florida and will go just about
> anywhere. I am about to buy a '73-'79 Ford locally and would love to
know
> if there are any suggestions on where to find them. I'm looking for a
later
> 70's (i.e. '76-'79) 1/2 ton truck with a 302 or 360-390 engine and a C-6
> tranny, 4x4 of course (preferably not lifted).
> This is a pretty tall order seeing as how only the '74-'76 model 1/2
> tons had 302s, the '77-'79s primarily had I6,351M,400M engines, and they
> discontinued the 360 in '76. BTW:C-6's weren't available in 4x4
> configurations untill '75. To top this off unlike Florida it seems
> NorthWesterners prefered 3/4 ton 4x4's with 4Spd Trannys back in the late

> 70's.
> So, any suggestions on where to find such a breed would be great.
> Also if your a member of the list and you live in the Seattle area let me

> know. I'm not only a Hot-Rod enthusiast I'm also a Off-Road fan and
would
> love to get tips on Northwestern wheelin' that's good for full-size
pickups
> --B.A.Dickinson
> badickin freenet.tlh.fl.us
> '85 Jeep Wagoneer Ltd XJ
> 3.4L GM Performance Parts V6
> W/ Edelbrock Intake and Holley 390cfm
> 235/75R15 BFG AT T/A's on stock Suspension
> And one really faded WoodGrain Clad paint job
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: 6 Jun 97 08:20 EDT
From: T6007AM chrysler.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: NOISY 352
Message-Id:

D C Beatty:

Tried to E-mail you directly - got it back from Compuserve, so here it is
on the LIST.

WORKING TO BE THE BEST
Azie Magnusson
PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Chrysler.com
Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
To: 104452.1--INTERNET

From: Azie Magnusson, CMIS Coordinator
Subject: NOISY 352

You're going to think I'm crazy, but here is what I would try: Go to your
local parts house and buy a can of "Marvel Mystery Oil" - put it in the
crank case, crank the engine and run it for a bit at a very brisk idle -
say about 1200/1500 rpms for about 10 - 15 minutes and see what happens.
This stuff is one of the best "flushes" you can buy for such things as
stuck lifters and sludge in general. You will need to drain and change
the oil & filter after you do this. You will see strange things come out
of the oil pan after you do this if the engine has been sitting for a long
period.

Again - Good luck.

WORKING TO BE THE BEST
Azie Magnusson
PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Chrysler.com
Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jun 1997 10:52:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: SMOKEY5209 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1970 Ford F-100
Message-ID:

Forgive my second post but the first was undeliverable.
I have a 1970 Ford F-100 that I am restoring. I am in search of a set off
good headlight buckets. I also need to know if there is a way to hook up
back-up lights to a T-18 four speed that was transplanted into this truck.
Third and final question I want to replace the front drum brakes with disc
brakes are there any suggestions as to a swap vehicle?
Thank You

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Date: Fri, 6 Jun 1997 10:14:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: disc brake swap info
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The Ford truck owner requesting info on front disc swaps,
please contact me. I've been saving some posts on disc
brake swaps and can forward them to you. I think our list
Mom Ken did a great job describing the swap.

rick
'66 Mustang coupe (Granada front disc brake swap)
'71 F100 (4 wheel drums)
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com
Minneapolis

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Date: Fri, 06 Jun 1997 12:22:47 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: ADMIN: I'm back
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I'm back. It will take at least 2 days for me to catch up on all
emails sent to me (privately or otherwise have over 180 in my inbox
to sort through) so ads, pictorial additions and new links will
slowly appear over the next 48+ hours on the web site. I'll try to
get to everyone as soon as I can.

Some non-truck content:

Its a boy! Born 6-6-97 at 3:27 am. 8lbs, 5.9 ozs, 18.5 inches
long - Edward Frank Payne. Beatles "Birthday" was playing on....

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