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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 128

Today's Topics:

RE: 67 f100 frame [DC Beatty
RE: J C whitney [DC Beatty
Re: Gas tank safety [Dave Reynolds ]
Opps!!!Re: Hubcaps and Carb question [petunia indy.net ]
Re: 67 f100 frame [Dave Reynolds ]
Re: Opps!!!Re: Hubcaps and Carb ques [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
Getting a new exhaust system [Mark Tanner ]
Restoring for Show [John Strauss
Re: Opps!!!Re: Hubcaps and Carb ques [JIM HURD ]
76-79 power steering problems ["Joe " ]
Re: Getting a new exhaust system [Zander Busch ]
Hardened Valve Seats ["Bill Rotureau" ]
Re: Rear end for my 52 F-1 [JRFiero aol.com ]
Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to [JRFiero aol.com ]
Re: Hardened Valve Seats [Ken Payne ]
Re: Getting a new exhaust system [JRFiero aol.com ]
safe engine operation [Jeff Hazewinkel
RE: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to [Keith Srb ]
RE: Hardened Valve Seats [Keith Srb ]
Re: Getting a new exhaust system ["jayvanv teleport.com"
RE: Getting a new exhaust system [DC Beatty

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: 29 May 97 00:00:45 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 67 f100 frame
Message-ID:

Yeah. Radius arms. That's what they're called. Thanks Daver.

What and where exactly should I look for this fatigue? All I have noticed so far
is a messed up bushings on the cab mount and shock mount. Also, the radius arm
bushing on the same side as the other two messed up bushings looks like it's a
little out of shape---when comparing it to the other one. Do you think it is
possible that the frame could be hopelessly twisted?

Is there a trick for putting this crossmember in? I did one once on a 1976 250
and it was a-lot easier than this one seems to be.

Thanks for all the help. This was a depressing find.

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

Snip...
> Subject: 67 f100 frame
>
> >I am in the process of getting my 1967 F-100 on the road. The guy that had it
> >before me pulled the tranny and didn't replace the big crossmember that goes
> >between the torsion bar(??) mounts directly under the tranny. I have no
> idea how
> >long he drove it that way, but I am thinking that he did for awhile.
Everything
> >he did to the truck he did half-assed.
> >
> Are you sure it was supposed to have one? 3-speed manuals and FMX
> automatics often did not use a rear crossmember. My '64 F100 w/FMX doesn't
> have one and neither does my '61 Unibody w/3-speed. These trannies have cast
> iron cases and are quite content to hang off of the cast iron bellhousing.

I seriously doubt you have hurt the truck; but, it would not hurt to
check for metal fateug (sorry for the spelling folks). The member to
which you refer is the brace that ties the radius arm assemblies
together to hold the I-beams in the forward posision and it is
important. I know this member well I spent a half day removing it from
my truck due to the revits and yes I put it back with bolts.

Molater

Daver


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------------------------------

Date: 29 May 97 00:00:52 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: J C whitney
Message-ID:

I didn't see an 800 # in mine. Here's what they had:

312-431-6102
Fax: 312-431-5625

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Subject: J C whitney

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does anybody have the 800 # for jc whitney they couldpost for me I seem to
have lost the last catalog they sent me thanxs Drew Johnson


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 23:15:20 -0500
From: Dave Reynolds
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gas tank safety
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Tkaczyk wrote:
>
> I'm about to empty, clean and remove a dent from the gas tank on my 55
> F100. Can someone share the "do's & don'ts on how to do this safely?
> Thanks.
>
> Gary

Take it to a radiator shop and let them boil it out. Do not allow them
to pressure it to look for leaks it will swell and not be the same.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 23:27:11 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Opps!!!Re: Hubcaps and Carb question
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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Fellow trucksters,

Sorry 'bout that last post I just sent out.... It was supposed to go
to John, and somehow I distributed it to the list! OPPS and Sorry!
I guess that's what I get for 'netting way past my bedtime!!!

Well, since I now know that my home account is working, I have a
real question...

My '61 F100 has a 292 Yblock in it, running a Holley two barrel. I
have recently replaced most of what can be readily replaced in a
tuneup, (cap, rotor, coil, plugs, etc...)

My manual says that I should back out the fuel/air screws about 1.5
turns, but I have them right now at about 2.5 and I am running real
lean. In fact, the truck will shimmy really bad on the highway, with
little power until I run it with about 1/3 choke and then LOOK OUT!!!
She'll smooth right out and just purr right along.

I tried spraying the intake manifold & carb base with WD40 and
noticed no change in RPMs.

Is it bad to run with the choke partially on even when the engine is
warmed up when it just purrs like it does?
/And/
What does this condition mean? (Besides it running lean) Do I need
to rebuild the carb (even though it didn't appear to be leaking) or
am I missing something here? I know that my "choking" it when warm
is masking another problem, but what?

Any ideas "Carb Jim" in NY or anybody else?

Thanks in advance,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 23:32:23 -0500
From: Dave Reynolds
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 67 f100 frame
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

DC Beatty wrote:
>
> Yeah. Radius arms. That's what they're called. Thanks Daver.
>
> What and where exactly should I look for this fatigue? All I have noticed so far
> is a messed up bushings on the cab mount and shock mount. Also, the radius arm
> bushing on the same side as the other two messed up bushings looks like it's a
> little out of shape---when comparing it to the other one. Do you think it is
> possible that the frame could be hopelessly twisted?
>
> Is there a trick for putting this crossmember in? I did one once on a 1976 250
> and it was a-lot easier than this one seems to be.
>
> Thanks for all the help. This was a depressing find.
>
> DC Beatty

Yea it sound as though you may have a twist. Clean the frame around the
radius arm bracket front and back so you can see the bare rail. Look at
all point close to the rivets/bolts and see if you notice any distortion
and or cracks. Sounds as though you have a problem; however, it's
nothing a frame shop cound not handle.

If you see distortion or twisting do not attempt a fix yourself take it
to a reputable frame shop.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 01:41:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Opps!!!Re: Hubcaps and Carb question
Message-ID:

My.$.02. Sounds like a manifold leak. Your engine shouldn't need the choke
when it is warmed up.
If you can't find a leak on the top side of the intake manifold, you may have
a leaky manifold gasket.
Lance

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 23:23:47 +0000
From: Mark Tanner
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Getting a new exhaust system
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I am close to finishing up installing a rebuilt 390 in my '74 F-250.
Since I added headers, I am going to have an exhaust system built
with dual turbo mufflers.

I have talked to a few muffler shops and they say that since I have
have an aux. fuel tank on the left side, what they do is run both
exhausts down the right side, hanging the mufflers vertically, and
exit both pipes on the right side behind the rear wheel.

This seemed a little odd to me and they said if I want, they could
exit one pipe back out the left side. At this point I am starting
to like the idea of having them both exit the right side but I am
not sure.

Any opinions? I can't think of any disadvantages either way.
Is there anything else I need to consider?

Mark
'74 F-250 Supercab

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 08:28:57 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: Restoring for Show
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I have a 1965 F100 step side that I am currently restoring. My question
>is, what can I do to the truck for show purposes and still be able to enter
>it as a restoration. It is a very basic version with no radio, minimul
>gages, etc.
>I guess what I am asking is what are the rules and regulations on
>keeping a truck original for show purposes.
>
Barry,
I don't have first hand information about this but you've posted twice and
nobody has answered so I thought I would take a crack.
It really varies from show to show I am told. There are not any
"universal" rules that I am aware of.
My personal feeling is you should stay original as much as possible, the
only exception being wheels/tires. Other mods are allowable within reason,
but you want to try to maintain the original look/feel. Like you can
reupholster the seat and you don't have to have an original style (with the
gear/lightening bolt embossed) but just don't use velour. Another example
is the radio - you can install one, just use the original style AM radio,
converted for FM if you like.
I know this is kind of loosey-goosey, but it's all I know. I am doing a
'64 Custom Cab, but I don't plan to show it. Still, I am going back all
original except I already put '92 style chrome wheels and white letter
tires, and I will add a tourneu cover on the bed (someday).
One other thing to keep in mind - Ford does not document options on their
vehicles (i.e. on the door plate) so nobody will know if you add a radio or
convert it to a Custom Cab if that is what you like.
Good luck with your truck!

John

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 09:36:17 -0500 (EST)
From: JIM HURD
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Opps!!!Re: Hubcaps and Carb question
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Eric,

Have you checked the fuel filter, Fuel pressure, and wet fuel level?

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 12:13:44 -0400
From: "Joe "
To:
Subject: 76-79 power steering problems
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I've got a 75 ford 4x4 that has power steering with the power steering
stabilizer.
the hoses is in the way that they hit something when I'm off-road. I look
at a 78
and it only had a power steering box on it no power stabilizer. and the box
was at the
some place my box was almost at the end of the frame Now is all the 76-79
the
some so that i can use them on mine.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 12:20:05 -0700
From: Zander Busch
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Getting a new exhaust system
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Mark,

I have a 1975 Ford F250 and just had a new exhaust system installed.
Since my aux. tanks are also on the left - I had my duals run down the
right - mufflers verticle next to each other - make sure the installer
welds a thin bar to connect the mufflers together - the mufflers must be
set at least 1/4 of an inch apart to prevent overheating - by connecting
the mufflers you guard against vibration - the exhaust can exit anywhere
you choose - my preference is just in front of the rear tire - this way
there are no bends over the rear axle - this means less restriction -
speaking of less restriction, I chose Dynomax's Race Magnum mufflers -
these mufflers are straight thru - Straight thru mufflers are often
noisy - these mufflers are quieter than the turbo mufflers I had before
- if price is a consideration stick with turbo mufflers

-Alex

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 14:09:18
From: "Bill Rotureau"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Hardened Valve Seats
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey Ya'll,

Thanks for the reply on the hardened valve seats in the 390. I also
posted this to rec.autos.tech and got a myriad of answers. Most say
don't bother unless you are doing a lot of towing or constant speed running
at high throttle settings. So.... unless I have to take the 390 down in
the Tbird, I will not bother with it. The engine seems to be in pretty
good shape. It got me home from Arkansas (north of Little Rock to San
Antonio). Used some oil (3 quarts) with most of it leaking from the pan
gasket that seems to have given up the ghost. Even tho' the driving in
the last 20 or so years has been limited (my original post said 611
miles in 22 years - turned out to be 3/4000 in the last 20). Averaged
16mpg (not bad from an over 2 ton Tbird with a bum card - accelerator pump
is toast).

Ken, I have always heard good things about MMO (did my original
question start that whole thread???) and I am going to try a little to
"clean" things up inside and out.

Now for the truck part of the this post. When I first got on this
list, I asked a questions about alternative gas tanks for my '64 with the
tank behind the seat. I had a few answers that I have now lost. Anyone
got any good suggestion for alternative locations, tanks to use, etc.??


Bill
'64 F100 Shortbox (302/C4)
'64 Tbird Hardtop (390/Cruise-o-Matic, 300hp/4V)
'95 TBird LX (still for sale)
'90 Harley Dresser (when will I be able to ride again with so many
projects?)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:31:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Rear end for my 52 F-1
Message-ID:

I put a 2.73 Chrysler rear in my '52 Panel while it still had the flathead
and the three on the tree. This was TOO MUCH GEAR. The little flathead
wouldn't do much with it. However, I installed a crashbox 4spd, and a 289,
and all was pretty well. 2400rpm at highway speeds around 65, 24 mpg.
However, first was still pretty low (the first gear in those old four speeds
were was a real stump puller), and 2nd was a little too high for takeoff. I
wouldn't go that low again, and I'll probably get to a 3.25 or so in my
current '51, with the flathead pumped up a little bit.
I don't know what the Chrysler rear came out ot, but with the wheel
adaptors (not such a good idea), the width came out right. Had to weld on
spring perches, and poke around for some time to find the right u-joint.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:31:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element Air Cleaner.
Message-ID:

In a message dated 97-05-27 17:37:13 EDT, you write:


it wouldn`t budge. am I missing something? I would at least like to get it
open and check the oil level, is there a trick to getting these things
open?
>>

Well, mine has a wing nut on top, with a threaded shaft down through the
middle, and then the upper, smaller diameter section lifts up. If you don't
have a fastener on top, I'd try unscrewing the whole smaller piece. I'm not
familiar with all the different styles.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:40:06 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

-snip-
>
>Ken, I have always heard good things about MMO (did my original
>question start that whole thread???) and I am going to try a little to
>"clean" things up inside and out.
>

If the engine is old I would recommend adding MMO to the existing
oil, running it the engine for a while and then changing the
oil and filter. Basically an engine flush.

>Now for the truck part of the this post. When I first got on this
>list, I asked a questions about alternative gas tanks for my '64 with the
>tank behind the seat. I had a few answers that I have now lost. Anyone
>got any good suggestion for alternative locations, tanks to use, etc.??

I'll check one of my rags, I remember seeing an article about relocating
the tank into the bed (it had a special box next to the cab) and it
looked fine. Remind me if I don't have a response within the next couple
of days.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:56:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Getting a new exhaust system
Message-ID:

"I am going to have an exhaust system built... "

I had a couple different arrangements on my 52 panel, the first being two
out the right, but in front of the wheel. Made great noise on the right, but
was quiet on the driver's side. The only reason I did it, tho, was because
of the manifolds I had which were two right sides, so the left pointed
forward, away from the steering gearbox, and the exhaust pipe curled around
the engine, then paralleled the right side all the way back. I think I
staggered the mufflers to keep it tight. Obviously, in this mode the left
exhaust path was longer, and I didn't use a balance pipe.
I later replaced this system with one out each side. The first system I
brazed up from junk pipe from behind the local gas station, and the second I
had bent, by taking aluminum wire bent in approximately the right shape, on
my motorcycle, down to another gas station where they had a bending machine.
Made a couple trips for each piece, if I recall. Obviously, no money for
headers.
Where's your tank? My tank was inside the left frame rail, so I routed
the exhaust under the frame, then up above the running board brackets and
back, then down and out in front of the wheels. The glasspacks were pretty
small, so they fit up above the running board brackets OK. I'm going to put
panel truck tank(s) in my 51 pickup, so I'll be faced with the same issue.
('nother story)
I don't know what kind of room you have in a similar location on a 74, but
its worth a look. I also don't understand what you mean by hanging the
mufflers vertically - where is there room? I do suggest a balance pipe
behind the headers. I don't remember all the theory, but it supposedly
improves low end torque? Lets hear from some experts!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:15:21 -0500
From: Jeff Hazewinkel
To: fordtrucks
Subject: safe engine operation
Message-id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

I am working on my 239 flathead V8 and want to safely start and run the
engine. The wiring is a mess and I would like to avoid dealing with it
until I get a new harness. Is it safe to just jump the motor at the
starter? Should I install a temporary switch near the relay ? I am
sure that there is a lot more that I am missing, but I want to hear this
engine purr. (the engine was recently rebuilt and the individual I
purchased it from says it runs nice)

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 16:08:48 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element Air Cleaner.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

On my 66 F100, I just take the wing nut off the shaft that runs from the carb
up through the air cleaner. Once this is off I can remove the whole air
cleaner, or if I just grab the edge of the air cleaner and lift up, the top
half of the air cleaner comes off and the bottom half remains on the carb. Be
careful, if you do this on the vehicle, you will have oil dripping down from
the top half of the air cleaner. The two halves do separator Slowly. Hope this
helps.

>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
>1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
>My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!"


-----Original Message-----
From: JRFiero aol.com [SMTP:JRFiero aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 1997 3:32 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element Air
Cleaner.

In a message dated 97-05-27 17:37:13 EDT, you write:


it wouldn`t budge. am I missing something? I would at least like to get it
open and check the oil level, is there a trick to getting these things
open?
>>

Well, mine has a wing nut on top, with a threaded shaft down through the
middle, and then the upper, smaller diameter section lifts up. If you don't
have a fastener on top, I'd try unscrewing the whole smaller piece. I'm not
familiar with all the different styles.


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 16:14:17 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Hardened Valve Seats
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ken, I would be interested in this article too. I would like to find a
different location for the gas tank in my 66.


>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
>1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
>My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!"


-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Payne [SMTP:kpayne mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 1997 3:40 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats

-snip-
>
>Ken, I have always heard good things about MMO (did my original
>question start that whole thread???) and I am going to try a little to
>"clean" things up inside and out.
>

If the engine is old I would recommend adding MMO to the existing
oil, running it the engine for a while and then changing the
oil and filter. Basically an engine flush.

>Now for the truck part of the this post. When I first got on this
>list, I asked a questions about alternative gas tanks for my '64 with the
>tank behind the seat. I had a few answers that I have now lost. Anyone
>got any good suggestion for alternative locations, tanks to use, etc.??

I'll check one of my rags, I remember seeing an article about relocating
the tank into the bed (it had a special box next to the cab) and it
looked fine. Remind me if I don't have a response within the next couple
of days.

Ken



____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:47:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: "jayvanv teleport.com"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Getting a new exhaust system
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE

On Wed, 28 May 1997, Mark Tanner wrote:

> This seemed a little odd to me and they said if I want, they could
> exit one pipe back out the left side. At this point I am starting
> to like the idea of having them both exit the right side but I am=20
> not sure.
>=20
> Any opinions? I can't think of any disadvantages either way.
> Is there anything else I need to consider?

The People that work in drive up windows and toll boths will love you if
you exit them out the right side or straight out the back...

=2E.Jay



> Mark=20
> '74 F-250 Supercab
>=20
>=20
> ____________________________________________________________________
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Date: 29 May 97 21:55:53 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Getting a new exhaust system
Message-ID:

I have seen this done and it wasn't a bad deal. You may want to make sure they
extend the pipes far enough away from the body that the paint doesn't get
cooked.

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

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Subject: Getting a new exhaust system

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Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 23:23:47 +0000
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