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Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 00:07:29 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #127
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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 127

Today's Topics:

Re: Warning about camper shells -- [JAMES ]
[Fwd: Re: Body repair] [JAMES ]
Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #76 [farmergeorge sos.on.ca ]
1931 FORD PICK-UP ["RANDY ZEILINGER ]
Rear end for my 52 F-1 [Tkaczyk ]
Gas tank safety [Tkaczyk ]
300 Six EFI/Duraspark [John Strauss
1965 F100 restoration [BARRY PRICE
Re: Gas tank safety Reply ["Wagger" ]
Re: 300 Six EFI/Duraspark [rick adc.com (Rick Larson) ]
Server addresses [Ken Payne ]
Cool '50? Ford truck image [rick adc.com (Rick Larson) ]
C6 problem? ["Jon & Cindy Johnson"
J C whitney ["Jon & Cindy Johnson"
RE: Gas tank safety Reply [Randy Collins ]
Hubcaps [petunia indy.net ]
Re: Body repair [petunia indy.net ]
Re: Body repair [Dave Reynolds ]
RE: 300 Six EFI/Duraspark [DC Beatty

Administrivia:

____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request lofcom.com
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____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 07:03:38 -0400
From: JAMES
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Warning about camper shells --
Message-ID:
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Lets use a little common sense please.Young children don't belong in the
bed of a pickup covered or uncovered.Most states require under 16 wear
seatbelts.Please help prevent another tragedy.
--
Disregard from and reply to addresses To reply send to JAMES
jtors fred.net WARNING! ALL
UNSOLICITED COMMERCIAL E-MAIL WILL BE BILLED A $500.00 U.S. PROOFREADING
FEE.FAILURE TO PROVIDE VALID U.S.POSTAL ADDRESS FOR SUCH BILLING OR
FAILURE TO PAY WITHIN 5 DAYS OF RECIEPT WILL RESULT IN APPROPRIATE LEGAL
ACTIONS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 07:09:37 -0400
From: JAMES
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Body repair]
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--
Disregard from and reply to addresses To reply send to JAMES
jtors fred.net WARNING! ALL
UNSOLICITED COMMERCIAL E-MAIL WILL BE BILLED A $500.00 U.S. PROOFREADING
FEE.FAILURE TO PROVIDE VALID U.S.POSTAL ADDRESS FOR SUCH BILLING OR
FAILURE TO PAY WITHIN 5 DAYS OF RECIEPT WILL RESULT IN APPROPRIATE LEGAL
ACTIONS

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Message-ID:
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 06:39:44 -0400
From: JAMES
Reply-To: jtors f?r?e?d.?n?E?t
Organization: Organization? We don't need no stinkin organization!
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U)
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To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Body repair
References:
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Bondo should never be used any thicker than 1/8 inch as it will crack
and fall off.For large dents use a slide hammer to pull dent most of the
way and body hammers and dollies.If this type of work scares you consult
an expert.If he mentions Bondo run away! :-)
--
Disregard from and reply to addresses To reply send to JAMES
jtors fred.net WARNING! ALL
UNSOLICITED COMMERCIAL E-MAIL WILL BE BILLED A $500.00 U.S. PROOFREADING
FEE.FAILURE TO PROVIDE VALID U.S.POSTAL ADDRESS FOR SUCH BILLING OR
FAILURE TO PAY WITHIN 5 DAYS OF RECIEPT WILL RESULT IN APPROPRIATE LEGAL
ACTIONS


--------------77C713A017C0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 07:57:50 -0700
From: farmergeorge sos.on.ca
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #76
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi!

Still trying to figure out E40D transmission on 89 Ford F350 diesel
dually.
Had transmission rebuilt and rebuilder forgot to disconnect one of two
batteries and burned up wiring etc.
Replaced lots of gauges, fipl switch, changed to updated black shift
sensor switch, and put on new wiring harness.
Now shifts really hard from first to second, sometimes hunts back and
forth from drive to overdrive.
Don't know what to try next. Any suggestions appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 08:49:38 EDT
From: "RANDY ZEILINGER caveat lector"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1931 FORD PICK-UP
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'm posting this for a friend in Canada. He is working on a 1931 Ford truck
that has a 351C-2v with C-4 auto. The motor/trans is from a 71 or 72 Torino.
The problem is they can't find headers that
are short enough or drop straight down very quickly.

I don't know enough to help them in their task, perhaps someone out there can
help me (them) out.

TIA
Randy Z.

reply here at work or to home at . I'm on the 80s up
list at home.

damnant quod non intelligunt
1999 PN/UN Launch Team
Randy Zeilinger PROFS EMAIL
313.39.02922 FAX 313.84.55383 PAGER 810.890.3665 (TIP #2900)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 08:50:47 -0400
From: Tkaczyk
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Rear end for my 52 F-1
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Randall, I'm also upgrading the rear on my 55 Ford half-ton pickup.
I'll share what I've learned from this group (below), based on my
research so far.


1. "I want something that will handle highway speeds and not be
over-reving the motor (still has the original flathead). What gear
ratio should I use? (I'm not too concerned with power)"

Randall, I'm also not concerned with power. Like you, I want to handle
today's highway speeds without excessive RPMs. The January 96 issue of
Truckin Magazine ran an article on how to determine your "right" ratio.
Here's their formula:
Tire Size x R /336 x MPH.

One example: 28 inch high tires x 2200 RPM/336 x 60 MPH = 3.05 gear
ratio. I've decided to go with 3.00:1 ratio (26" tires).


2. "I want something that will eventually link up with either a 302 or
351W
without too many problems. (my project for next year)"

I also am installing a Ford small block engine, with a C4 automatic
tranny. Replaced the truck driveshaft with one from a Mustang: fits
fine.


3. "The front drums will eventually be converted to 5 3/4" disks and
calipers (I hear '77 camaro will work). I want the rearend that I put
in to
have the same bolt pattern (I think 5 3/4" is chevy, is it not?)."

Can't help you with Chevvy.

4. "I want something reliable and that I can get parts for (that most
automotive stores will stock and not having to go to a Ford specialty
shop).

What should I use? A Camaro/Firebird rearend? How does the yolk off
the
Camaro fit onto a Ford driveshaft? Am I better off using a Ford truck
or
car rearend? What year car or truck will work?"

In terms of reliability and parts availability, my research turned up
more info and parts for the Ford 9 inch rear axle than anything else.
Also see it under restored GM's in the magazines. Also used in race
cars. Ford made these axles from 1957 thru 86, then sold the molds for
making the 9" housings, so they're still being produced, as are all the
aftermarket parts that go in the hoousings. Swap meets also are a good
source, if you know what you're looking for. I ended up with a 9" rear
from a 72 F100 (has 3.25 gears, which I'm changing to 3.00).

If you decide to go with the Ford 9 inch, measure the distance between
your rear spring perches, and the distance between wheel faces. My Ford
truck parts manual shows Ford half tom trucks from 1948 thru 56 having
the same rear axle width. For my 55 F100, the rear axle from a 57 thru
72 half ton pickup fits perfectly: 61 1/4" between wheel bolt faces and
40 1/4" between spring perch centers. If your 2 measurements are the
same as mine, the 57-72 F100 axle will fit your half-ton too.

Hope this helps. Please let me know if you need more info.

Gary

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 08:54:55 -0400
From: Tkaczyk
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Gas tank safety
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'm about to empty, clean and remove a dent from the gas tank on my 55
F100. Can someone share the "do's & don'ts on how to do this safely?
Thanks.

Gary

55 F100, FSB, C4, 9" 3.00:1
84 & 85 BroncoII

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 08:09:09 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: 300 Six EFI/Duraspark
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>what year did ford go from carburation to fuel injection and what year did
>they go from points to electronic ignition on the 300 cu. in. in-line 6
>
EFI was used on the 300 Six beginning in 1987. I'm not sure about the
conversion to Duraspark ignition but I would guess 1975.

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 09:35:55 -0400
From: BARRY PRICE
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1965 F100 restoration
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Disposition: inline

I have a 1965 F100 step side that I am currently restoring. My question
is, what can I do to the truck for show purposes and still be able to enter
it as a restoration. It is a very basic version with no radio, minimul
gages, etc.
I guess what I am asking is what are the rules and regulations on
keeping a truck original for show purposes.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 09:17:37 -0600
From: "Wagger"
To:
Subject: Re: Gas tank safety Reply
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi there,
I have done this before, with some degree of success. First I drained all
the gas out. (no brainer right). The thing to remember is that even when it
dosen't smell too much like gas there is still fumes in there. I had a
friend that was making a BBQ out of an old 55 gal fuel drum. As soon as he
took a torch to it, it backed up on him and he was luckily just singed. The
gas actually permeates the steal.
I stuck a garden hose in mine for the afternoon. This seemed to get some
of the fumes out. I left the water in it, and bought a body shop black
suction cup, cleaned the area. (so the cup would stick) I rode motorcycles
for 20 years and tried the compressed air trick, all it ever did for me was
blow the seams out. A lot of people just say" use a compressor", but it
dosen't work real well.
Good Luck,
Charlie SR.

----------
> From: Tkaczyk
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Gas tank safety
> Date: Wednesday, May 28, 1997 6:54 AM
>
> I'm about to empty, clean and remove a dent from the gas tank on my 55
> F100. Can someone share the "do's & don'ts on how to do this safely?
> Thanks.
>
> Gary
>
> 55 F100, FSB, C4, 9" 3.00:1
> 84 & 85 BroncoII
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 12:56:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 300 Six EFI/Duraspark
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> >what year did ford go from carburation to fuel injection and what year did
> >they go from points to electronic ignition on the 300 cu. in. in-line 6
> >
> EFI was used on the 300 Six beginning in 1987. I'm not sure about the
> conversion to Duraspark ignition but I would guess 1975.

I've seen Duraspark ignition on '77 Granadas. $15 at a U-Pull.

rick
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com
Minneapolis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 15:59:57 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Server addresses
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Subscribe and unsubscribe address is "fordtrucks-request lofcom.com"
as stated in the introduction emails. Posting address is
fordtrucks lofcom.com.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.
-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 16:05:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Cool '50? Ford truck image
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

For you '50? Ford truck owners, you might enjoy
the image at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.vergemag.com/

Click on the toc and page down a bit. You will
see a (IMHO) cool red '50 pickup image.

Enjoy,
rick

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 21:28:36 -0400
From: "Jon & Cindy Johnson"
To:
Subject: C6 problem?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I am also having a problem with my C6. I have a 65 F100 with 460 & C6. When
I slow for a stop sign the tranny does not shift down to low until you come
to a complete stop. and then it does it with a loud thump( at least its
loud in the cab) If anybody has any thoughts on this please respond thanks
, Drew Johnson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 21:31:33 -0400
From: "Jon & Cindy Johnson"
To:
Subject: J C whitney
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

does anybody have the 800 # for jc whitney they couldpost for me I seem to
have lost the last catalog they sent me thanxs Drew Johnson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 19:36:59 -0600
From: Randy Collins
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Gas tank safety Reply
Message-ID:
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC6BAC.7D5C9E20"

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC6BAC.7D5C9E20
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From: Wagger [SMTP:tanya tx3.com]

Hi there,
I have done this before, with some degree of success. First I drained =
all
the gas out. (no brainer right). The thing to remember is that even when =
it
dosen't smell too much like gas there is still fumes in there. I had a
friend that was making a BBQ out of an old 55 gal fuel drum. As soon as =
he
took a torch to it, it backed up on him and he was luckily just singed. =
The
gas actually permeates the steal.
I stuck a garden hose in mine for the afternoon. This seemed to get =
some
of the fumes out. I left the water in it, and bought a body shop black
suction cup, cleaned the area. (so the cup would stick) I rode =
motorcycles
for 20 years and tried the compressed air trick, all it ever did for me =
was
blow the seams out. A lot of people just say" use a compressor", but it
dosen't work real well.
Good Luck,
Charlie SR.

I have never tried the following trick, but I am certain that it will =
work. Hook the exhaust of a running car to the tank and let the car run =
for several hours. The massive amount of noncombustible gas passed =
through the tank will remove all flammable vapors. I didn't invent this =
truck a mechanic friend of mine told me the procedure. =20


Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6



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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC6BAC.7D5C9E20--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 22:50:56 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Hubcaps
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Hey John,

Since I haven't heard from you the last couple of days, and I've been
experiencing some bigtime woes on my home pc and work....I thought
I'd try to contact you again....

I got your pictures this weekend and they looked good.

I am interested in getting the hubcaps from you.... is the deal still
on?

Please let me know, and if you would, email me at both addresses,
since I don't know which one will work on any given day!!!

Later,
Eric

petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 23:10:38 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Body repair
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Hi Sam,

> I repaired a large dent with bondo, it is quite thick, I have heard that you
>sould not make the bondo more than an 1/8" thick, and I have heard
>it does not matter how thick it is.

"Bondo" (or other plastic fillers) will crack over time when put on
too thick. The thinner the better when using bondo.

> When trying to pound out a dent, the metal just doesn't seem to move, no
>matter how hard I hit it, I know you should work slowly, but the met
>just doesn't seem to move at all. Does anyone know anyth>

Sounds like you have a good sized dent, so I'll assume you've got
the piece (such as fender, door, hood...) off the vehicle. This
makes working on the dents so much easier, and worth the minimal time
that it took you to take the part off. Obviously, you will be
tapping or "bumping" the the dent from the caved-in side, but you
need to support the metal on the outside surface. The tools for this
purpose are called "dollies". Basically, a dollie is a chunk of
metal that you hold in one hand, up against the metal, and with your
hammer, you tap in the same place as the dollie, but on the other
side of the metal. I hope this wasn't too confusing...... I have
used a large standing anvil for this purpose sometimes. Sometimes
the "tapping" turns into "pounding" but don't get too carried away
because then you'll end up stretching the metal and then you'll have
to "torch and quench" it (a whole 'nuther story!) to get it back
into shape. Use only enough force that is necessary. Practice and
you'll get the feel.

If you can hook up with someone locally who knows how to do this
"art" it would be most helpful. I was fortunate enough when I lived
in CA for awhile to have met a guy who taught me the basics on this
art..... it is by no means rocket science, so you can learn it
yourself, and if you do, I'd highly recommend getting an old fender
from the junk yard to bang on until you get the hang of it and go
banging and stretching your fine pieces of sheet metal.

Oh, another thing, the hammer and dollie process, (I'm told) doesn't
work so well with the newer sheet metal because of its thinner and a
little more springy.... As I said, I have no experience with this
new sheet metal, but I do know that the old stuff is nice and
thick!!! Gotta love these old vehicles!!!

Hope this helps...

Eric
petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us

==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Unibody Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 23:08:36 -0500
From: Dave Reynolds
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Body repair
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Sam Rule wrote:
>
> I repaired a large dent with bondo, it is quite thick, I have heard that you sould not make the bondo more than an 1/8" thick, and I have heard it does not matter how thick it is. Could someone please help me with this?
>
> When trying to pound out a dent, the metal just doesn't seem to move, no matter how hard I hit it, I know you should work slowly, but the met just doesn't seem to move at all. Does anyone know anything about removing dents?
>
> Sam

Get a slide hammer (aka dent puller) drill a few small holes and thread
the end of the slide hammer into it and pull the dent out you'll have to
drill more than one hole. You are correct the thicker the bondo the
worse it'll crack and fall out. If you clean the surface to bear metal
and drill a few small holes the bondo will stick well.

I always use Kitty Hair which is a fiberglass filler first. prepare the
surface as I described above apply the Kitty Hair allow to cure +/- the
same as bondo then sand down to the correct shape then use a ultra thin
layer of bondo to fill scratches and air bubbles and sand down smooth
and paint.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: 29 May 97 00:00:48 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 300 Six EFI/Duraspark
Message-ID:

Good guess. I have Duraspark on my 1974 Maverick 302. The Chilton manual says
that the first year it was offered was '75, but California cars had it in '74. I
don't know if this is the same for all makes/models/engines though.

FYI this ignition has never let me down once!! I drive the garbage scow
everyday, and I only have to replace rotors and caps every once in awhile. It's
been a very reliable component.

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 1997 7:09 AM
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: 300 Six EFI/Duraspark

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