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------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 126

Today's Topics:

Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to [Dave Reynolds ]
MMO, not ... ["Alexander M. Siu"
Re: 390 Question [Dave Reynolds ]
archive help [lapaloma sedona.net (Bob & Carole G]
confirm 05200716424261 [lapaloma sedona.net (Bob & Carole G]
Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to [JRFiero aol.com ]
subscribe fordtrucks ["jayvanv teleport.com"
Re: SLICK 50 > PROLONG,Others [silent.bob juno.com ]
Rag joint install update [rick adc.com (Rick Larson) ]
c-6 transmission problem ["RICH ANZALONE"
c-6 transmission problem ["RICH ANZALONE"
Cleaning Glunky Engine ["Alexander M. Siu"
Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to ["Larry Coffman"
RE: 67 f100 frame [DC Beatty
Is My Foot Too Big? [Larry Smeins ]
Rear end for my 52 F-1 [Randall Colgan
Re: Rear end for my 52 F-1 [Swell61 aol.com ]
RE: 67 f100 frame [Ken Payne ]
help [DRUMMER329 aol.com ]
Re: c-6 transmission problem [Dave Reynolds ]
Re: 67 f100 frame [Dave Reynolds ]
Re: 67 f100 frame [Dave Reynolds ]
1952 F1 Pick up [TNickolson aol.com ]
Re: subscription [MSUPT aol.com ]
Re: subscription [MSUPT aol.com ]
Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to conv [Sam Rule ]
Body repair [Sam Rule ]
Warning about camper shells -- ["chita" ]

Administrivia:

____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 23:12:33 -0500
From: Dave Reynolds
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element Air Cleaner.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Keith Srb wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if I can replace my entire Oil Bath Air Cleaner with a
> Paper Element Air Cleaner? It has to fit the 1 Barrel Carburetor on my 66
> F100, with a 249 C.I. Straight Six.
>
> Keith Srb

I believe Mr Gasket makes a the replacment you are looking for.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 00:11:08 -0500 (EST)
From: "Alexander M. Siu"
To: Ford List
Subject: MMO, not ...
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

As as ASE Certified Mechanic, I just MMO for a lot of things, like
Cleaning Guns, (I actually, create my own brand of Gun Solvent) and
cleaning many parts that require an oil based solvent. As for car, using
it is not as necessary as it used to. The older grade oils have less
detergent in it than today's The Detergent in the new oil should be
enough to keep your engine clean, assuming that you have change your oil
on time and often. For those customer who don't do so, we either put some
MMO or ATF in their engine and let it run for a few days. After that, you
should see what the Inside looks like, (removing the valve cover or oil
pan) The MMO works, It is a good solvent and I don't recommend puting
it in as motor oil, since it is a lot thinner than Motor Oil. I would
put one quart in as a flush and for temperatory use. Guest what, it will
clear up that glunk cloging the oil Pick up! It has many beneifts. For
those of you who question MMO's ability, just see for yourself.

It still hurts me to see an engine w/ glunk in it.

As for Slick 50, I don't use it. Keeping that oil change on time will
have greater beneifts. Just make sure you drain all the dirty oil out!!!
Not just most of it.


-=ALEX Siu=-



ASIU UBMail.UBalt.EDU

VOICE: (410)828-0273

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 23:48:11 -0500
From: Dave Reynolds
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 390 Question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Bill Rotureau wrote:
>
> How long can you run a 1964 390/4V (300hp/10.1 compression ratio)
> without hardened valves seats? Engine has 79K miles on it from 1964 to 1975
> and 650 miles from 1975 to present?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
> '64 F100 Shortbox (302/C4)

If you check the cylinders and find a few dead it is because the valves
are pulled up into the head. The answer to your question is not very
long if you have'nt been into it there is probably enough lead deposits
to protect it for a while; but you need to pull the heads and have a
valve job and have the hardened sets installed. If you do not install
these early you'll be out some pretty tough repair bills (I was on one
of mine). You only need hardened sets on the exaust valves and they
should'nt cost more than 7 or 8 bucks each installed.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 04:40:41 -0700 (MST)
From: lapaloma sedona.net (Bob & Carole Galpin)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: archive help
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

what year did ford go from carburation to fuel injection and what year did
they go from points to electronic ignition on the 300 cu. in. in-line 6

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 05:02:53 -0700 (MST)
From: lapaloma sedona.net (Bob & Carole Galpin)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: confirm 05200716424261
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>To: fordtrucks 80up-digest-reqest lofcom.com
>From: lapaloma sedona.net (Bob & Carole Galpin)
>Subject: confirm 05200716424261
>
>I am or I am not on your mailing list
If so how do I get a responce to My Mail to you
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 08:32:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element Air Cleaner.
Message-ID:

In a message dated 97-05-18 05:18:07 EDT, you write:


Paper Element Air Cleaner? It has to fit the 1 Barrel Carburetor on my 66
F100, with a 249 C.I. Straight Six.
>>

I've been toying with the idea of fitting a paper element or a K&N INSIDE
the oil bath housing. As one reason, my truck's mostly original, and as
another, my oil bath has an interesting internal design which I suspect Ford
created for a reason. Most of the housing is just dead air, but the bottom
of that space is open to the carburetor throat. Incoming 'clean' air gets to
the carb through an opening in the middle of the air cleaner which is a
smaller diameter than the carb throat. If anybody can explain why its done
this way, or wants a better explanation, please jump in.
The reason I think this design might be important stems from my VW
experience some time ago. The theory on the carburetted air cooled flat
motors was that they ran with a gas vapor cloud just above the carb, in the
air cleaner (also an oil bath, on the early ones I played with). Replacing
the stock cleaner with a cheap little flat chrome one didn't allow room for
this 'cloud.' You needed a velocity stack and a good size air cleaner to get
any advantage from modernizing the air cleaner. I wonder if something
similar is going on in the Ford oil bath design, and I hesitate to change it.
So, I'm keeping my eyes open for an oil bath cleaner the same size and
attachment method as mine, so I'll have one to experiment with.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 06:06:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: "jayvanv teleport.com"
To: Ford trucks mailing list
Subject: subscribe fordtrucks
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE

subscribe fordtrucks


=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=
=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=
=B0
=20
jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
=20
=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=
=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=
=B0
=20

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 10:20:45 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: SLICK 50 > PROLONG,Others
Message-ID:

Okay, i didn't want to say anything because this is really non-Ford
Truck related, but I too was using this so called "Snake Oil, Mystery
Oil, etc" until someone posted a site in which independent testers, and
engine manufactures tested and posted their results. Now that I know
more about it, i will never use any oil additives ever again. In fact, im
actually worried that i may have done some damage to my engine. I have
learned that changing your oil every 3000 to 5000 miles with an approved
motor oil is all you need to do.

I have forgotten the web site, so will someone please repost this site
on the so called "Snake Oil" so that we my put this issue to rest. I
recommend that any of you that use Slick50 or any other oil additives,
should at least take the time to read this like I did. I found a lot of
information and a lot of questions answered

Thank you.

.---. .-----------
/ \ __ / ------ fox mail.icso.com
/ / \(..)/ ----- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordmanted.com (Mustang Shop)
////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site)
//// / // : : ---
// / / /` '--
// //..\
=======UU====UU===[95 Ranger XLT 2.3L]=[silent.bob juno.com]===
'//||\`
''``

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 10:50:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Rag joint install update
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Friday, I installed my *second* rag joint in my '71. Here
is a quick note on some problems I encountered installing
the steering rag joint or flexible coupler. Hopefully,
it will help others.

I picked up the first one in one of those "Help!" sections
in a local auto store.

It ripped out in a month. I don't know if I installed
it incorrectly but it didn't last. The bolts ripped
right through two of the holes making driving down the
interstate quite exciting.

I went to a different store and scanned the "Help!"
section. There I found two different ones: "General"
and "Ford". I don't remember seeing a Ford specific
one before so I picked it up. The Ford one was good
for '74+ but looked like it will work on my '71.

The hardware in the "Ford" package is different and seems
better. The "pins" looked beefer than the other one
and closer to the same size as the original Ford ones.

After installing the joint, I don't see how it could fail
like the previous one. It seems very secure. I'll keep
my eye on it for a few months to check for wear. Hopefully,
it will be fine.

If anyone has questions on the installation or need
some pics, let me know and I'll try to be more clear.

rick
'66 Mustang
'71 F100 *Custom* daily driver
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com
Minneapolis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 09:42:14 PDT
From: "RICH ANZALONE"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: c-6 transmission problem
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain

I have a 75 f100 with a c-6 tranny (not stock). I took the ole truck out
yesterday and it felt like the truck had no power when taking off from a stop.
I started playing around with it and found out that the truck was not shifting
in to low when starting from a stop (it appears to be starting in 2nd). I can
put it in low and it works fine but it will not do it on its own. Has anyone
had this problem before or maybe have an idea what I should look at first. I
have very little experience with automatics. Do I need to take it to a shop?
Thanks for any help that can be provided.



Rich Anzalone 75 F100 (390)




---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 09:43:22 PDT
From: "RICH ANZALONE"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: c-6 transmission problem
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain

I have a 75 f100 with a c-6 tranny (not stock). I took the ole truck out
yesterday and it felt like the truck had no power when taking off from a stop.
I started playing around with it and found out that the truck was not shifting
in to low when starting from a stop (it appears to be starting in 2nd). I can
put it in low and it works fine but it will not do it on its own. Has anyone
had this problem before or maybe have an idea what I should look at first. I
have very little experience with automatics. Do I need to take it to a shop?
Thanks for any help that can be provided.



Rich Anzalone 75 F100 (390)




---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 15:37:51 -0500 (EST)
From: "Alexander M. Siu"
To: jrfiero aol.com
Cc: Ford List
Subject: Cleaning Glunky Engine
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

I may have said this in another post, you may use MMO as a Flush for
temperatory use. 1 qt. Just Idel the engine up to temp and turn it off.
Let it sit over night and run it up to temp again and drain. I will take
all the glunk off, or atleat most of it off. Replace it w/ regular
detergine oil, I like Rotella myself. and change it at your regular
interval.

The other way to do it is drain your oil, replace 1/4 with ATF, i.e. a 4
qt capacity = 3 qt oil and 1qt ATF. You can use this for a few days and
change your oil as usuall. I would be almost as effective, but less
painfull, since you can actually drive your vehicle.


-=ALEX Siu=-

ASIU UBMail.UBalt.EDU

VOICE: (410)828-0273

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 16:38:42 -0400
From: "Larry Coffman"
To:
Subject: Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element Air Cleaner.
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I also have a mostly original truck, when I tried to open my air cleaner,
it wouldn`t budge. am I missing something? I would at least like to get it
open and check the oil level, is there a trick to getting these things
open?

Larry
66 F-100

----------
> From: JRFiero aol.com
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element
Air Cleaner.
> Date: Tuesday, May 27, 1997 8:32 AM
>
> In a message dated 97-05-18 05:18:07 EDT, you write:
>
>
a
> Paper Element Air Cleaner? It has to fit the 1 Barrel Carburetor on my
66
> F100, with a 249 C.I. Straight Six.
> >>
>
> I've been toying with the idea of fitting a paper element or a K&N
INSIDE
> the oil bath housing. As one reason, my truck's mostly original, and as
> another, my oil bath has an interesting internal design which I suspect
Ford
> created for a reason. Most of the housing is just dead air, but the
bottom
> of that space is open to the carburetor throat. Incoming 'clean' air
gets to
> the carb through an opening in the middle of the air cleaner which is a
> smaller diameter than the carb throat. If anybody can explain why its
done
> this way, or wants a better explanation, please jump in.
> The reason I think this design might be important stems from my VW
> experience some time ago. The theory on the carburetted air cooled flat
> motors was that they ran with a gas vapor cloud just above the carb, in
the
> air cleaner (also an oil bath, on the early ones I played with).
Replacing
> the stock cleaner with a cheap little flat chrome one didn't allow room
for
> this 'cloud.' You needed a velocity stack and a good size air cleaner to
get
> any advantage from modernizing the air cleaner. I wonder if something
> similar is going on in the Ford oil bath design, and I hesitate to change
it.
> So, I'm keeping my eyes open for an oil bath cleaner the same size and
> attachment method as mine, so I'll have one to experiment with.
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: 27 May 97 18:04:44 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 67 f100 frame
Message-ID:

Thanks for answering John.

I am referring to the front crossmember, the one that bolts up just under the
bellhousing. This is the one that's been missing.

It also has a rear cross under the FMX as well.

Any advice would be appreciated. I'm wondering if the truck could be screwed up
or not.

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Sent: Monday, May 26, 1997 2:10 PM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 67 f100 frame

>I am in the process of getting my 1967 F-100 on the road. The guy that had it
>before me pulled the tranny and didn't replace the big crossmember that goes
>between the torsion bar(??) mounts directly under the tranny. I have no
idea how
>long he drove it that way, but I am thinking that he did for awhile. Everything
>he did to the truck he did half-assed.
>
Are you sure it was supposed to have one? 3-speed manuals and FMX
automatics often did not use a rear crossmember. My '64 F100 w/FMX doesn't
have one and neither does my '61 Unibody w/3-speed. These trannies have cast
iron cases and are quite content to hang off of the cast iron bellhousing.


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 16:17:45 -0600
From: Larry Smeins
To: "'FordTrucks'"
Subject: Is My Foot Too Big?
Message-Id:

I have a 95 F-250 Powerstroke and I really like my truck but there is
one thing that really bugs me about it. I like to plant my foot square
on the accelerator and press down to go. I find that when I do this on
the Ford my toe hits the vertical lever rod that the pedal actuates and
it feels like I have the pedal to the metal but its only half open. The
only way I can get full power is by pushing the pedal down with my toe
which after an extended period of driving gets very tiring. Does anyone
else have this problem or am I just a weird driver? I've been looking
for an aftermarket pedal with a different angle but haven't seen any.
Guess I may have to make my own.

Larry
If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 17:46:47 -0600
From: Randall Colgan
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Rear end for my 52 F-1
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Does anyone have experience changing out the rearend (or knows something
about it) in a 48 to 52 F-1 (or mercury)? I want to retire the original and
install a newer one for a couple of reasons.

1. I want something that will handle highway speeds and not be over-reving
the motor (still has the original flathead). What gear ratio should I use?
(I'm not too concerned with power)
2. I want something that will eventually link up with either a 302 or 351W
without too many problems. (my project for next year)
3. The front drums will eventually be converted to 5 3/4" disks and
calipers (I hear '77 camaro will work). I want the rearend that I put in to
have the same bolt pattern (I think 5 3/4" is chevy, is it not?).
4. I want something reliable and that I can get parts for (that most
automotive stores will stock and not having to go to a Ford specialty shop).

What should I use? A Camaro/Firebird rearend? How does the yolk off the
Camaro fit onto a Ford driveshaft? Am I better off using a Ford truck or
car rearend? What year car or truck will work?

Any help would be most appreciated.

Regards,
================
Randall Colgan
Civil Engineering
University of Alberta
Edmonton, Alberta
'52 Ford F-1 Truck
================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 20:24:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Swell61 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Rear end for my 52 F-1
Message-ID:

Some of the speed shops carry u-joint's that have different cross sections
and different cup diameter's. Check the spring width from inside to the
outside so the alignment pins won't spread or pull the springs. I have put
ford driveshafts in chevy's and chevy's in fords. A good hyway gear is around
3.08 for automatic's Good luck Steve

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 21:25:02 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: 67 f100 frame
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 06:04 PM 5/27/97 EDT, you wrote:
>Thanks for answering John.
>
>I am referring to the front crossmember, the one that bolts up just under the
>bellhousing. This is the one that's been missing.
>
>It also has a rear cross under the FMX as well.
>
>Any advice would be appreciated. I'm wondering if the truck could be screwed up
>or not.
>
>DC Beatty
>1967 F-100 352
>1974 Maverick 302
>

I'll crawl under my 67 tomorrow and take a look at mine. I'll let you know
if it looks like this piece is load bearing.

-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 21:35:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRUMMER329 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: help
Message-ID:

I need to be removed from this mailing list

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 21:22:12 -0500
From: Dave Reynolds
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: c-6 transmission problem
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

RICH ANZALONE wrote:
>
> I have a 75 f100 with a c-6 tranny (not stock). I took the ole truck out
> yesterday and it felt like the truck had no power when taking off from a stop.
> I started playing around with it and found out that the truck was not shifting
> in to low when starting from a stop (it appears to be starting in 2nd). I can
> put it in low and it works fine but it will not do it on its own. Has anyone
> had this problem before or maybe have an idea what I should look at first. I
> have very little experience with automatics. Do I need to take it to a shop?
> Thanks for any help that can be provided.
>
> Rich Anzalone 75 F100 (390)

I had this problem and found that the shifter (mine is on the column)
was not holding far enough to the left. My solution was to adjust the
linkage and replace the nylon bushing that holds the linkage in the
shift arm.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 21:30:39 -0500
From: Dave Reynolds
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 67 f100 frame
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

DC Beatty wrote:
>
> Thanks for answering John.
>
> I am referring to the front crossmember, the one that bolts up just under the
> bellhousing. This is the one that's been missing.
>
> It also has a rear cross under the FMX as well.
>
> Any advice would be appreciated. I'm wondering if the truck could be screwed up
> or not.
>
> DC Beatty
> 1967 F-100 352
> 1974 Maverick 302
>
> ----------
> From: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Sent: Monday, May 26, 1997 2:10 PM
> To: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: 67 f100 frame
>
> >I am in the process of getting my 1967 F-100 on the road. The guy that had it
> >before me pulled the tranny and didn't replace the big crossmember that goes
> >between the torsion bar(??) mounts directly under the tranny. I have no
> idea how
> >long he drove it that way, but I am thinking that he did for awhile. Everything
> >he did to the truck he did half-assed.
> >
> Are you sure it was supposed to have one? 3-speed manuals and FMX
> automatics often did not use a rear crossmember. My '64 F100 w/FMX doesn't
> have one and neither does my '61 Unibody w/3-speed. These trannies have cast
> iron cases and are quite content to hang off of the cast iron bellhousing.

I seriously doubt you have hurt the truck; but, it would not hurt to
check for metal fateug (sorry for the spelling folks). The member to
which you refer is the brace that ties the radius arm assemblies
together to hold the I-beams in the forward posision and it is
important. I know this member well I spent a half day removing it from
my truck due to the revits and yes I put it back with bolts.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 21:34:26 -0500
From: Dave Reynolds
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 67 f100 frame
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> At 06:04 PM 5/27/97 EDT, you wrote:
> >Thanks for answering John.
> >
> >I am referring to the front crossmember, the one that bolts up just under the
> >bellhousing. This is the one that's been missing.
> >
> >It also has a rear cross under the FMX as well.
> >
> >Any advice would be appreciated. I'm wondering if the truck could be screwed up
> >or not.
> >
> >DC Beatty
> >1967 F-100 352
> >1974 Maverick 302
> >
>
> I'll crawl under my 67 tomorrow and take a look at mine. I'll let you know
> if it looks like this piece is load bearing.
>
> -Ken

It's definatly load bearing. It keeps the radius arms from twisting the
fram under laod.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:00:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: TNickolson aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1952 F1 Pick up
Message-ID:

I have deciphered the VIN number for my truck, but the tag also has a
production code number that I have tried to find out what it means. The
number is 10MRP767 and is labeled "Production Code"

I have also been trying to find a FORD book decribing a "Five Star" Deluxe
cab. Any suggestions on where to look. Does FORD have a dept. that can answer
questions.

I also need FORD in the scrip style with letters 6 to 9 inches tall in metal
that can be chrome plated.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:49:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: MSUPT aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: subscription
Message-ID:

unsubscribe fordtrucks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:50:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: MSUPT aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: subscription
Message-ID:

subscribe fordtrucks digest

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 22:34:39 -0600
From: Sam Rule
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element Air
Message-Id:

I completely took my oil bath air filter off my '65 170 inline 6 and just put on some chrome air filter I found at the auto store. I just thought it looked better, is this bad to do should I go back to the oil bath filter?

Sam
1965 econoline
samster wwdg.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 22:41:12 -0600
From: Sam Rule
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Body repair
Message-Id:

I repaired a large dent with bondo, it is quite thick, I have heard that you sould not make the bondo more than an 1/8" thick, and I have heard it does not matter how thick it is. Could someone please help me with this?....

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