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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 120

Today's Topics:

RE: "Loose" Steering - 1966 Ford F-1 [Ethan Vos ]
Re: Paint and Corrosion! [Ronske aol.com ]
Re: [Don Grossman ]
Re: Paint and Corrosion! ["Jim" ]
Anybody Know What an F-68 Might Be? [Dan Wentz ]
Re: Anybody Know What an F-68 Might ["C.D. Mutch"
Re: Vapor Locking, Overheating [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
RE: Paint and Corrosion! [Randy Collins ]
Handling [Doug Neely
Re: R/R Engine on Bronco ["Alexander M. Siu"

Administrivia:

____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
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____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:48:57 -0400
From: Ethan Vos
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: "Loose" Steering - 1966 Ford F-100
Message-ID:
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There should be some kind of adjustment on the top of the steering box. =
Loosen the lock nut and turn in the screw. If you go too far, the =
steering will get tight.

Could also bee the bushings worn out in the box. Then it's time to =
rebuild the box.

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Srb [SMTP:herbie netvalue.net]
Sent: Monday, May 19, 1997 5:27 PM
To: 'fordtrucks lofcom.com'
Subject: "Loose" Steering - 1966 Ford F-100

Does anybody have any ideas on how I could tighten up the steering in my =

truck. Right now I can turn the steering wheel around 40 degrees before =
it=20
will change direction as I am cruising down the road. The last time I =
had=20
the front end aligned, the mechanic showed me something interesting. He=20
grabbed the steering column shaft and turned it back and forth. As he =
did=20
this you could see the steering box flex some before it ever started =
moving=20
the pitman arm. My truck has 98,000 miles on it.

I would really like to find a way to put power steering on my truck.

>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
>1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
>My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!"



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Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:34:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ronske aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Paint and Corrosion!
Message-ID:

Your air compressor's rating for SCFM will remain the same at either voltage.
Amps and volts are propersional in a single phase circuit. Plug your numbers
into the formula below:

watts = volts x amps

1200 watts = 120 volts x 10 amps

1200 watts = 240 volts x 5 amps

Watts are what you pay the power company for so either way the bill is the
same.

Sorry about the orifice! Cannot help you with women with what little I know
of the creatures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:06:44 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re:
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ken Payne wrote:


>
> Cab mounts? Pain in the butt! You have to find a good way to lift the
> cab without smashing in the floor. A good hydraulic rolling floor
> jack will work if you put a 2x10 on it. Lift it just enough to get the
> donut out and replace it. All this is moot if the metal has rust though,
> you're looking at replacing stuff then.


I used 2 fork lifts to pull the cab off, six bolts, ebrake cable, brake
line, unplug the wires and your ready to go. Then I turned around and
put the cab on a 77 chassis with some new cab mounts, the poly kind and
they do add a bit more stability over the stock rubber. Then I
remembered I didn't clean the under side of the cab so off came the cab
again.

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......

65 Ford F-150 4x4 (soon to be 72 Mustang)
63 Ford F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:48:17 -0700
From: "Jim"
To:
Subject: Re: Paint and Corrosion!
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'm looking more to functional with the bed of my truck!
Using the product (the name eludes me at the moment) that
transforms the corrosion into a barrier then painting over
it. what would a pro soda blast run in a guess?

The truck, I have the bed that looks bad and some bondo on
the doors. repairs from mirror changes. Please don't let
these guide the bulk of information on body work. Truthfully
the drive train is nuts & bolts! I would like any
information on Home body work and suspension. What type of
spray gun. What to do to prepare my garage and truck.
matching paint etc.!

The soda blast has caught my attention. I am
entertaining the idea of making my own pressure blaster from
a pressure cooker, My current lack of employment and my
enjoyment of making my own tools make for a marriage of good
old American ingenuity (no Yankee here!) :) Baking soda is
available at Warehouse stores in bulk! It would be used for
small jobs!
Seeds for a later discussion perhaps!

Thank you all who replied! yes I have an Auto Paint Supply
Store near buy! thanks I'll check on paint types!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:53:01 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Anybody Know What an F-68 Might Be?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Has anybody ever heard of an F-68 truck? Sounds very very strange to me.
Here's what I know.

The truck is a 1949 Ford 3/4 ton (from Canada). It looks like a slightly
larger version of an F-1. The F-68 badge is between the back of the front
fender and front of the door (just like on an F1, 2, 3, etc.). I've never
seen the truck, it was only described to me. The vin is DF83h497369.
Anybody able to help? Thanks.

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:32:18 -0700
From: "C.D. Mutch"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Anybody Know What an F-68 Might Be?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> Has anybody ever heard of an F-68 truck? Sounds very very strange to me.

Here in Canada, back in the late 40's the half tons and 3/4 tons wore
these badges. 1/2 tons wore F-47 3/4 tons wore F-68. As far as I know
these badges stood for the gross vehicle weight. 1/2 tons weighed 4700
lbs and the 3/4 tons weighed 6800 lbs.
--
Friends may come and go, but enemies accumulate.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:42:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Vapor Locking, Overheating
Message-ID:

They say "Boy it's hot in Arizona."
I'm not sure when you say that you have the "stock 4-blade fan".
Is this the flex fan or the the kind with a fan clutch?
If it's the kind with the clutch, replace the clutch with a heavy duty clutch
(about $90.00 from Pep Boys).

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:19:00 -0700
From: Randy Collins
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Paint and Corrosion!
Message-ID:
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Jim,

Soda blasting is awesome. The commercially available equipment is quite =
expensive. I can't quote the exact specifications because I don't deal =
in that type of equipment. By memory I think they were requiring =
something like 175CFM for their equipment. That is not a typo, yes 175 =
CFM. I presume the large quantity of air needed is related to the =
relatively small particle size and weight of soda. =20

Another note on soda blasting. In the industrial painting business we =
like the profile left on steel when sand or other angular blasting grit =
is used. We can measure the height of the profiles. They typically run =
from around .0015 to .003 or so. Most of the grades of soda available =
don't leave the desired profile. Last time I checked they had one grade =
that would leave a profile of around .001. =20

Blasting is done with lots of different types of media. Walnut shells, =
corn husks, ice, plastic, there was even a type of sponge that had =
something embedded in it. I am not in the blast equipment so I can't =
give specifics. But I remember that silica sand hits the surface at =
around 450 miles per hour. This takes lots of air. =20

I make the next statement with lots of reservations. I will not =
participate in flames or negative input on this topic. Any other =
statement I make please feel free to comment, question me or simply tell =
me to not "talk" so much. :) NONE OF THE RUST CONVERSION COATINGS ARE =
RECOGNIZED AS A LONG TERM SOLUTIONS TO RUST. The only real solution is =
to prepare the steel properly or use a coating that is somewhat tolerant =
to the poor surface preparation. When I say that the conversion =
coatings aren't recognized in the coatings industry I mean that there =
are no specifications for them. I do not specify them, sell them, or =
recognize them as alternatives. If you wish to use them and have had =
good luck with them then I am happy for you and that's your business. =20

If you aren't to concerned with the looks of the bed of your truck. One =
of the manufactures I do business with has a product that would probably =
do the job. The company is Carboline and the product is called =
Carbomastic 15. It is an aluminum filled epoxy that is designed to be a =
surface tolerant coating. Carboline can be reached at 314-644-1000. =20

If there is any chance that salt or other chemical contaminants could =
still be present in the bed of your truck I would have it stem cleaned. =
If you don't have access to steam cleaner then simply use hot tap water =
until you rinse it well. Hot water is your best bet for removing =
chloride ions (salt). Then wire brush or sand the bed until you just =
can't stand it any longer. Then mix the epoxy and brush it on. You =
understand that it will look brushed. This is your best option if you =
are trying to stop corrosion. Brushing it will help work it into the =
rust pits and other voids that you aren't able to prepare properly. =
Allow the product to cure. I think that the cure time is around 24 =
hours at 75 degrees, but the cure times will be listed on the product =
data sheets. Then give it a second coat. =20

Because the coating is an epoxy it will chalk and fade with exposure to =
sunlight. This won't hurt it. It only affects the way it looks. Done =
properly this system will last for years. =20


Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6



-----Original Message-----
From: Jim [SMTP:jstrigas worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, May 19, 1997 7:48 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Paint and Corrosion!

I'm looking more to functional with the bed of my truck!
Using the product (the name eludes me at the moment) that
transforms the corrosion into a barrier then painting over
it. what would a pro soda blast run in a guess?
=09
The truck, I have the bed that looks bad and some bondo on
the doors. repairs from mirror changes. Please don't let
these guide the bulk of information on body work. Truthfully
the drive train is nuts & bolts! I would like any
information on Home body work and suspension. What type of
spray gun. What to do to prepare my garage and truck.
matching paint etc.!

The soda blast has caught my attention. I am
entertaining the idea of making my own pressure blaster from
a pressure cooker, My current lack of employment and my
enjoyment of making my own tools make for a marriage of good
old American ingenuity (no Yankee here!) :) Baking soda is
available at Warehouse stores in bulk! It would be used for
small jobs!
Seeds for a later discussion perhaps!

Thank you all who replied! yes I have an Auto Paint Supply
Store near buy! thanks I'll check on paint types!




____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com


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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC64AB.36A06DC0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:26:19 -0700
From: Doug Neely
To: Ford Truck
Subject: Handling
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Bill,
Have someone move the seering wheel back and forth while
you look underneath on the frame rail where the steering box
bracket is welded to the frame,there is a rivet at the front,
look just ahead of the rivet and see if there's any movement
between the bracket and the frame, if so the weld on the underside
of the frame has to be redone.
Cheers,
Doug

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 02:01:27 -0500 (EST)
From: "Alexander M. Siu"
To: BrokeArrow aol.com
Cc: Ford List
Subject: Re: R/R Engine on Bronco
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Let me look at my Ford Motor sport catalog....

I don't see any computer calb. for 460. That's not necessary a bad thing.
As far as I can tell, the F250, F350 and FSuperduty have an injected 460,
I do believe it is a TBI. If that is the case, you may be in luck, just
take the whole package from a say F250 the Engine, wires, and computer and
dump it into your truck. Thre is one problem, your suspension may not be
....


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