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Return-Path: From: fordtrucks-digest-request Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:45:22 -0400 (EDT) X-Authentication-Warning: t3.media3.net: lof set sender to fordtrucks-digest-request Subject: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #119 X-Loop: fordtrucks-digest X-Mailing-List: archive/volume97/119 To: fordtrucks-digest Reply-To: fordtrucks ------------------------------ Content-Type: text/plain fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 119 Today's Topics: RE: [Ken Payne ] Re: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical [Gardner ] 429/460 flywheel [AM14 429/460 flywheel - Reply [Glen Pace ] RE: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical [DC Beatty OD unit add-on [AM14 RE: Paint and Corrosion! [Randy Collins ] Vapor Locking, Overheating [Keith Srb ] "Loose" Steering - 1966 Ford F-100 [Keith Srb ] Re: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical [Swell61 FS: Ford 292 w/at CHEAP! Mpls (fwd) [Jesus Cardoso Re: Vapor Locking, Overheating [John Macnamara ] Administrivia: ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ____________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 13:14:31 -0400 From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks Subject: RE: Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 11:23 PM 5/18/97 EDT, you wrote: >Thanks Ken, but the high price was just what I was trying to avoid, and the >junkyard guys around here laugh at me when I ask them. Only newer stuff gets >wrecked here, I guess. > >Ever messed with the cab mounts?? > >Thanks, >DC Beatty >1967 F-100 352 >1974 Maverick 302 > Headlight doors are nearly impossible to find used. Because of the design of the 67-72 they stick out far enough from the body that they commonly "bump" into things, ruining them in a hurry. I don't know how good you are with aluminum but it can be worked out (if there is no crease) with patience. I fixed one of mine - its perfect now (from the outside!) the other was beyond repair. Cab mounts? Pain in the butt! You have to find a good way to lift the cab without smashing in the floor. A good hydraulic rolling floor jack will work if you put a 2x10 on it. Lift it just enough to get the donut out and replace it. All this is moot if the metal has rust though, you're looking at replacing stuff then. -Ken Payne 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8 List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions. Visit the Ford Truck Enthusiast List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 13:32:14 -0500 From: Gardner To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Nancy J. Davis wrote: > > Well, a while back I wrote about my 1992 Ford F150 Flareside failing to > run more than a few days, due to the battery going dead. We started > having the problem in May, 1996 on an intermittent basis, and more > regularly starting in November, 1996. Now, it's pretty > consistent....and, the truck has been in the dealership's service > department since early February more than it's been with us! > > They can't find the problem! And, they claim they've checked with their > resources in Detroit, and still can't figure out what the problem could > be, and/or what to do to fix it! > > So, now I'm left with a BEAUTIFUL truck that looks like brand new, with > a custom camper shell on it, a tent trailer painted to match, and can't > drive it anywhere because the battery will suddenly go dead for no > explained reason (and no.... it's NOT the battery! Believe me, that was > the first thing checked, and we put in six (6) different batteries > testing it!) It's not the alternator, the regulator (in the > alternator), any of the fuses (as they took them all out and we drove > it)...nor the alarm system, keyless entry system, automatic door locks, > nor anything else electrical that they can think of. They can't find > ANY draw of voltage on the battery before it takes it's dump. It's like > lightening strikes it, suddenly, and it goes completely dead in just a > minute or two! (When the vehicle is turned off!!!!) > > We're now ready to install a battery buddy, a bypass system.... but that > really is not the solution! Also will impact us in trying to sell the > darn thing! > > Any last minute suggestions? Answers? Similar experiences? Need to > hear from you Ford F150 electrical gurus! > > Thanks ! > Nancy > e-mail: nancyjd > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne everynow and then maybe a hard bump or something will cause it to happen. Tried anything with starter maybe it has a probably were it locks or shorts and kills the battery when you start it! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 97 16:01:37 EDT From: AM14 To: "FOMOCO Truck B/S list" Subject: 429/460 flywheel Message-Id: *** Resending note of 05/12/97 15:38 To: FOMOCO --INTERNET POSTED 05/12.. NO RESOPONSE!!! TRYING AGAIN!!!! From: Azie Magnusson, CMIS Coordinator Subject: 429/460 flywheel Anyone on this list know what the FOMOCO P/N is for 429/460 flywheel manual trans applications??? Someone told me there were at least two (2) different P/N's!! Internal balanced (68-79) and external balanced (mid 79 and later).. Is this a fact???? Any cheap aftermarket suppliers for these out there. (cheap in price not quality). WORKING TO BE THE BEST Azie Magnusson PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 16:22:55 -0400 (EDT) From: Glen Pace To: fordtrucks Subject: 429/460 flywheel - Reply Message-id: Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII There are two different ones I don't have the part numbers but I will look in my papers for the place I got mine when I put my 460 in. They are not cheap I don't remember how much they were it was 6 years ago but even then they had to be over $250 I will get back to you with the address. Glen 96 F-350 4x4 77 F-250 4x4 ------------------------------ Date: 19 May 97 16:23:54 EDT From: DC Beatty To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks Subject: RE: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical Message-ID: Man, what a pain. I had a car once that had the battery cable laid across the exhaust manifold. It caused a direct short through the horn relay. You might try that. I had to pull the cable entirely out before I could see where it had burned through. >>>Now, it's pretty consistent....and, the truck has been in the dealership's service department since early February more than it's been with us! This doesn't seem right. To my knowledge there can be no "mystery cause." They just aren't looking hard enough. The cause has to be there. Good Luck, DC Beatty 1967 F-100 352 1974 Maverick 302 ---------- From: INTERNET:fordtrucks Sent: Monday, May 19, 1997 10:51 AM To: INTERNET:fordtrucks Subject: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical Well, a while back I wrote about my 1992 Ford F150 Flareside failing to run more than a few days, due to the battery going dead. We started having the problem in May, 1996 on an intermittent basis, and more regularly starting in November, 1996. They can't find the problem! And, they claim they've checked with their resources in Detroit, and still can't figure out what the problem could be, and/or what to do to fix it! So, now I'm left with a BEAUTIFUL truck that looks like brand new, with a custom camper shell on it, a tent trailer painted to match, and can't drive it anywhere because the battery will suddenly go dead for no explained reason (and no.... it's NOT the battery! Believe me, that was the first thing checked, and we put in six (6) different batteries testing it!) It's not the alternator, the regulator (in the alternator), any of the fuses (as they took them all out and we drove it)...nor the alarm system, keyless entry system, automatic door locks, nor anything else electrical that they can think of. They can't find ANY draw of voltage on the battery before it takes it's dump. It's like lightening strikes it, suddenly, and it goes completely dead in just a minute or two! (When the vehicle is turned off!!!!) We're now ready to install a battery buddy, a bypass system.... but that really is not the solution! Also will impact us in trying to sell the darn thing! Any last minute suggestions? Answers? Similar experiences? Need to hear from you Ford F150 electrical gurus! Thanks ! Nancy e-mail: nancyjd ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 97 16:05:04 EDT From: AM14 To: "FOMOCO Truck B/S list" Subject: OD unit add-on Message-Id: *** Resending note of 05/09/97 13:32 To: FOMOCO --INTERNET POSTED ON 05/09..NO RESOPONSE!!! TRYING AGAIN... From: Azie Magnusson, CMIS Coordinator Subject: OD unit add-on I am in possesion of a complete OD transmission (3 speed w/elect OD) from an early 70's F150. I am aslo rebuilding, from the ground up, 2 '77 4X4's. One is an F250, C6 and the other is an F350 that has been cut/lengthened to 185"wb and has an NP435 (?) 4 speed. I would like somehow to install the 3 speed OD unit where the 'jackshaft' is between the tranny and the transfer case. Anybody out there ever done anything like this??? How/where do I get the necessary parts to convert the front of the 3 speed so it will accept a 'YOKE/U-JOINT' type set up??? I know for a fact large trucks use this type setup for auxillary transmissions (one directly behind the other), but all their parts are much too heavy duty for this. Or, is there a better suggestion?? I need some ideas from some of you that made/fabricated some of your own mods. I know there are aftermartet suppliers of OD units out there but they are tooooo expensive for my blood!!! Anybody know what happened to the "Honematic" offered by Hone mfg several years ago??? What happened to Hone mfg for that matter??? Any help/suggestions appreciated. WORKING TO BE THE BEST Azie Magnusson PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:44:20 -0700 From: Randy Collins To: "'fordtrucks Subject: RE: Paint and Corrosion! Message-ID: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC6463.480A3660" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC6463.480A3660 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jim, What are you trying to accomplish? Are you simply trying to stop = corrosion or do you want to use an automotive system and make it look = new again? =20 Are you willing to have the bed sand blasted? Or are you trying to do = it with the least amount of money? It could be sandblasted. Blasted with plastic media. There is newer = equipment called soda blast that uses sodium bicarbonate manufactured by = the Arm & Hammer company. Sodium bicarbonate is the "fancy" term for = baking soda.=20 Tell me more, Randy Collins Boise, Idaho rcollins 1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces) Soon to have the following Randy installed options: F250 4WD 460 C-6 -----Original Message----- From: Jim [SMTP:jstrigas Sent: Monday, May 19, 1997 9:27 AM To: Ford Trucks Subject: Paint and Corrosion! Randy Thank you! It just so happens I have a need for advise in just your area of expertise! My '73 F100's inside bed is in bad need of refurbishment. although the metal is solid it has the appearance of rust, more than likely caused by cargo rather than it's own. Question, what do I do to remove the corrosion, and what do I use for coverage? I have a 4hp portable air Compressor it has these ratings SCFM 8.1 6.4 I do believe these ratings are of it running 120 after my wife finished tearing me a new orifice of unspeakable nature, I rewired it for 240. I know nothing about electricity or women, All the cycles, amp's, AC/DC, intensity, I wont even get into electricity! These new orifice are quite uncomfortable and vary unsightly, and haven't received one sense the change over! Is this big enough to use for painting the inside bed with that gray with white spots :) truck inside the bed paint? (TIC) I have no idea what I need to do, any information would be a plus! 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Subject: Vapor Locking, Overheating Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I do not know how many of you are familiar with the 240 C.I. Straight Six, but, I have two problems I need help with. Oh by the way, I live in Mesa AZ, the AZ Dessert. 1. I have replaced the two vein radiator with a three vein radiator. I have flushed and filled the cooling system, 50% anti-freeze, 50% water. I have replaced the thermostat with a new stock thermostat, 180 degree I think. I have replaced the water pump. I am still running the stock 4 blade fan. When ever the temperature climbs to 100+ degrees, the temperature gauge will climb up to 220 degrees. If I sit at a stop light for very long, the temperature climbs to 230 degrees. It will come back down to 220 if I can avoid stopping at any more lights for a couple of miles. I tried fabricating a fan shroud and installing that around the radiator, but that did not help the temperature, and actually aggravated the second problem. Any body got any suggestions ?????? 2. Once the engine temperate reaches 220 for any period of time, I dare not pull into a shopping center and go shopping, or a 7-11 and spend more than five minutes in there. If I let the truck sit for more than five minutes, the engine will restart fine. It will idle O.K., but as soon as I try and let the clutch out, the truck dies. It doesn't sputter at all, it just quits, like I would of turned the key off. After that I have to hold the Accelerator Pedal to the floor until the engine starts again. The engine sounds like it is slightly flooded when it starts. I then have to sit there and run the Rpm's up to around 2000 for a minuet or so. Once the temperate comes back down to 220, I can usually get the truck moving, but it will cut out a couple more times before it stays running. If I get stuck in stop and go traffic on the, "so called", Freeway for any time, the truck will up and die while it is idling and I am waiting for traffic to move again. Some back ground information on the truck. The intake manifold sits just above the exhaust manifold, all kinds of heat rising! The truck has a 1 barrel carburetor, that I have to replace at the end of each summer because the heat usually warps the top plate on the carburetor enough that it will not seal, causing some nasty gas leaks and more problems. It also has an Oil Bath Air Cleaner. Anybody got any ideas as to what I can do to solve this problem???? >Keith Srb herbie >1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed. >1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box. >My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:26:33 -0700 From: Keith Srb To: "'fordtrucks Subject: "Loose" Steering - 1966 Ford F-100 Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anybody have any ideas on how I could tighten up the steering in my truck. Right now I can turn the steering wheel around 40 degrees before it will change direction as I am cruising down the road. The last time I had the front end aligned, the mechanic showed me something interesting. He grabbed the steering column shaft and turned it back and forth. As he did this you could see the steering box flex some before it ever started moving the pitman arm. My truck has 98,000 miles on it. I would really like to find a way to put power steering on my truck. >Keith Srb herbie >1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed. >1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box. >My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 17:28:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Swell61 To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical Message-ID: I have an 1984 F 250 that did that. After you bust it off it worked fine for a fue days. One day it would not bust utill i rwmoved the battery and put it back on. I replaced the relay and that fix my problem fo a wile and it started a gain. Then i put an A/C delco 100 amp on it an works fine if you dont leave you lights on. That was what started it in the first place. Good luck Steve ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 16:44:59 -0500 (CDT) From: Jesus Cardoso To: fordtrucks Subject: FS: Ford 292 w/at CHEAP! Mpls (fwd) Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I hope this is useful to someone. Jesus Cardoso ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:24:33 -0700 From: roger nielsen Reply-To: rlnielsen Cc: rlsen Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique Subject: FS: Ford 292 w/at CHEAP! Mpls for sale ford 292 ci v8 from 1955 ford w/air cooled ford o matic it does have 98,000 miles if near minneapolis mn e-mail me with phone # to rlsen Could be Really CHEAP....HINT.. HINT... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:14:32 -0700 From: John Macnamara To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: Vapor Locking, Overheating Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Keith Srb wrote: > > I do not know how many of you are familiar with the 240 C.I. Straight Six, > but, I have two problems I need help with. Oh by the way, I live in Mesa > AZ, the AZ Dessert. > > 1. I have replaced the two vein radiator with a three vein radiator. I have > flushed and filled the cooling system, 50% anti-freeze, 50% water. I have > replaced the thermostat with a new stock thermostat, 180 degree I think. I > have replaced the water pump. I am still running the stock 4 blade fan. > When ever the temperature climbs to 100+ degrees, the temperature gauge > will climb up to 220 degrees. If I sit at a stop light for very long, the > temperature climbs to 230 degrees. It will come back down to 220 if I can > avoid stopping at any more lights for a couple of miles. I tried > fabricating a fan shroud and installing that around the radiator, but that > did not help the temperature, and actually aggravated the second problem. > Any body got any suggestions ?????? > > 2. Once the engine temperate reaches 220 for any period of time, I dare not > pull into a shopping center and go shopping, or a 7-11 and spend more than > five minutes in there. If I let the truck sit for more than five minutes, > the engine will restart fine. It will idle O.K., but as soon as I try and > let the clutch out, the truck dies. It doesn't sputter at all, it just > quits, like I would of turned the key off. After that I have to hold the > Accelerator Pedal to the floor until the engine starts again. The engine > sounds like it is slightly flooded when it starts. I then have to sit > there and run the Rpm's up to around 2000 for a minuet or so. Once the > temperate comes back down to 220, I can usually get the truck moving, but > it will cut out a couple more times before it stays running. If I get stuck > in stop and go traffic on the, "so called", Freeway for any time, the truck > will up and die while it is idling and I am waiting for traffic to move > again. > > Some back ground information on the truck. The intake manifold sits just > above the exhaust manifold, all kinds of heat rising! The truck has a 1 > barrel carburetor, that I have to replace at the end of each summer because > the heat usually warps the top plate on the carburetor enough that it will > not seal, causing some nasty gas leaks and more problems. It also has an > Oil Bath Air Cleaner. > > Anybody got any ideas as to what I can do to solve this problem???? Keith: It definitely sounds like you have a vapor lock problem and two things come to mind immediately: electric fuel pump and possibly a.... 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