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Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:45:22 -0400 (EDT)
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Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 119

Today's Topics:

RE: [Ken Payne ]
Re: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical [Gardner ]
429/460 flywheel [AM14 chrysler.com ]
429/460 flywheel - Reply [Glen Pace ]
RE: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical [DC Beatty
OD unit add-on [AM14 chrysler.com ]
RE: Paint and Corrosion! [Randy Collins ]
Vapor Locking, Overheating [Keith Srb ]
"Loose" Steering - 1966 Ford F-100 [Keith Srb ]
Re: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical [Swell61 aol.com ]
FS: Ford 292 w/at CHEAP! Mpls (fwd) [Jesus Cardoso
Re: Vapor Locking, Overheating [John Macnamara ]

Administrivia:

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Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
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____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 13:14:31 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE:
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 11:23 PM 5/18/97 EDT, you wrote:
>Thanks Ken, but the high price was just what I was trying to avoid, and the
>junkyard guys around here laugh at me when I ask them. Only newer stuff gets
>wrecked here, I guess.
>
>Ever messed with the cab mounts??
>
>Thanks,
>DC Beatty
>1967 F-100 352
>1974 Maverick 302
>

Headlight doors are nearly impossible to find used. Because of the
design of the 67-72 they stick out far enough from the body that they
commonly "bump" into things, ruining them in a hurry. I don't know
how good you are with aluminum but it can be worked out (if there is
no crease) with patience. I fixed one of mine - its perfect now (from
the outside!) the other was beyond repair.

Cab mounts? Pain in the butt! You have to find a good way to lift the
cab without smashing in the floor. A good hydraulic rolling floor
jack will work if you put a 2x10 on it. Lift it just enough to get the
donut out and replace it. All this is moot if the metal has rust though,
you're looking at replacing stuff then.

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Truck Enthusiast List Web Page (unsubscribe
form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 13:32:14 -0500
From: Gardner
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Nancy J. Davis wrote:
>
> Well, a while back I wrote about my 1992 Ford F150 Flareside failing to
> run more than a few days, due to the battery going dead. We started
> having the problem in May, 1996 on an intermittent basis, and more
> regularly starting in November, 1996. Now, it's pretty
> consistent....and, the truck has been in the dealership's service
> department since early February more than it's been with us!
>
> They can't find the problem! And, they claim they've checked with their
> resources in Detroit, and still can't figure out what the problem could
> be, and/or what to do to fix it!
>
> So, now I'm left with a BEAUTIFUL truck that looks like brand new, with
> a custom camper shell on it, a tent trailer painted to match, and can't
> drive it anywhere because the battery will suddenly go dead for no
> explained reason (and no.... it's NOT the battery! Believe me, that was
> the first thing checked, and we put in six (6) different batteries
> testing it!) It's not the alternator, the regulator (in the
> alternator), any of the fuses (as they took them all out and we drove
> it)...nor the alarm system, keyless entry system, automatic door locks,
> nor anything else electrical that they can think of. They can't find
> ANY draw of voltage on the battery before it takes it's dump. It's like
> lightening strikes it, suddenly, and it goes completely dead in just a
> minute or two! (When the vehicle is turned off!!!!)
>
> We're now ready to install a battery buddy, a bypass system.... but that
> really is not the solution! Also will impact us in trying to sell the
> darn thing!
>
> Any last minute suggestions? Answers? Similar experiences? Need to
> hear from you Ford F150 electrical gurus!
>
> Thanks !
> Nancy
> e-mail: nancyjd ix.netcom.com
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.comThis is along shot but maybe you have a short somewhere and just
everynow and then maybe a hard bump or something will cause it to
happen. Tried anything with starter maybe it has a probably were it
locks or shorts and kills the battery when you start it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 97 16:01:37 EDT
From: AM14 chrysler.com
To: "FOMOCO Truck B/S list"
Subject: 429/460 flywheel
Message-Id:

*** Resending note of 05/12/97 15:38
To: FOMOCO --INTERNET
POSTED 05/12.. NO RESOPONSE!!! TRYING AGAIN!!!!
From: Azie Magnusson, CMIS Coordinator
Subject: 429/460 flywheel

Anyone on this list know what the FOMOCO P/N is for 429/460 flywheel
manual trans applications??? Someone told me there were at least two
(2) different P/N's!! Internal balanced (68-79) and external balanced
(mid 79 and later).. Is this a fact???? Any cheap aftermarket
suppliers for these out there. (cheap in price not quality).

WORKING TO BE THE BEST
Azie Magnusson
PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Chrysler.com
Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 16:22:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Glen Pace
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 429/460 flywheel - Reply
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII

There are two different ones I don't have the part numbers but
I will look in my papers for the place I got mine when I put my
460 in. They are not cheap I don't remember how much they were
it was 6 years ago but even then they had to be over $250
I will get back to you with the address.
Glen

96 F-350 4x4
77 F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: 19 May 97 16:23:54 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical
Message-ID:

Man, what a pain. I had a car once that had the battery cable laid across the
exhaust manifold. It caused a direct short through the horn relay. You might try
that. I had to pull the cable entirely out before I could see where it had
burned through.

>>>Now, it's pretty consistent....and, the truck has been in the dealership's
service department since early February more than it's been with us!
This doesn't seem right. To my knowledge there can be no "mystery cause." They
just aren't looking hard enough. The cause has to be there.

Good Luck,
DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302


----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Sent: Monday, May 19, 1997 10:51 AM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical

Well, a while back I wrote about my 1992 Ford F150 Flareside failing to
run more than a few days, due to the battery going dead. We started
having the problem in May, 1996 on an intermittent basis, and more
regularly starting in November, 1996. They can't find the problem! And, they
claim they've checked with their
resources in Detroit, and still can't figure out what the problem could
be, and/or what to do to fix it!

So, now I'm left with a BEAUTIFUL truck that looks like brand new, with
a custom camper shell on it, a tent trailer painted to match, and can't
drive it anywhere because the battery will suddenly go dead for no
explained reason (and no.... it's NOT the battery! Believe me, that was
the first thing checked, and we put in six (6) different batteries
testing it!) It's not the alternator, the regulator (in the
alternator), any of the fuses (as they took them all out and we drove
it)...nor the alarm system, keyless entry system, automatic door locks,
nor anything else electrical that they can think of. They can't find
ANY draw of voltage on the battery before it takes it's dump. It's like
lightening strikes it, suddenly, and it goes completely dead in just a
minute or two! (When the vehicle is turned off!!!!)

We're now ready to install a battery buddy, a bypass system.... but that
really is not the solution! Also will impact us in trying to sell the
darn thing!

Any last minute suggestions? Answers? Similar experiences? Need to
hear from you Ford F150 electrical gurus!

Thanks !
Nancy
e-mail: nancyjd ix.netcom.com



____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 97 16:05:04 EDT
From: AM14 chrysler.com
To: "FOMOCO Truck B/S list"
Subject: OD unit add-on
Message-Id:

*** Resending note of 05/09/97 13:32
To: FOMOCO --INTERNET
POSTED ON 05/09..NO RESOPONSE!!! TRYING AGAIN...
From: Azie Magnusson, CMIS Coordinator
Subject: OD unit add-on

I am in possesion of a complete OD transmission (3 speed w/elect OD) from an
early 70's F150. I am aslo rebuilding, from the ground up, 2 '77 4X4's. One is
an F250, C6 and the other is an F350 that has been cut/lengthened to 185"wb
and has an NP435 (?) 4 speed. I would like somehow to install the 3 speed OD
unit where the 'jackshaft' is between the tranny and the transfer case.
Anybody out there ever done anything like this??? How/where do I get the
necessary parts to convert the front of the 3 speed so it will accept a
'YOKE/U-JOINT' type set up??? I know for a fact large trucks use this type
setup for auxillary transmissions (one directly behind the other), but all
their parts are much too heavy duty for this. Or, is there a better
suggestion?? I need some ideas from some of you that made/fabricated some of
your own mods. I know there are aftermartet suppliers of OD units out there
but they are tooooo expensive for my blood!!! Anybody know what happened to
the "Honematic" offered by Hone mfg several years ago??? What happened to Hone
mfg for that matter???

Any help/suggestions appreciated.

WORKING TO BE THE BEST
Azie Magnusson
PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Chrysler.com
Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:44:20 -0700
From: Randy Collins
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Paint and Corrosion!
Message-ID:
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC6463.480A3660"

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC6463.480A3660
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jim,

What are you trying to accomplish? Are you simply trying to stop =
corrosion or do you want to use an automotive system and make it look =
new again? =20

Are you willing to have the bed sand blasted? Or are you trying to do =
it with the least amount of money?

It could be sandblasted. Blasted with plastic media. There is newer =
equipment called soda blast that uses sodium bicarbonate manufactured by =
the Arm & Hammer company. Sodium bicarbonate is the "fancy" term for =
baking soda.=20

Tell me more,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6



-----Original Message-----
From: Jim [SMTP:jstrigas worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, May 19, 1997 9:27 AM
To: Ford Trucks
Subject: Paint and Corrosion!

Randy Thank you!
It just so happens I have a need for advise in just your
area of expertise!
My '73 F100's inside bed is in bad need of refurbishment.
although the metal is solid it has the appearance of rust,
more than likely caused by cargo rather than it's own.
Question, what do I do to remove the corrosion, and what do
I use for coverage? I have a 4hp portable air Compressor it
has these ratings

SCFM
8.1 40psi
6.4 90psi

I do believe these ratings are of it running 120 after my
wife finished tearing me a new orifice of unspeakable
nature, I rewired it for 240. I know nothing about
electricity or women, All the cycles, amp's, AC/DC,
intensity, I wont even get into electricity! These new
orifice are quite uncomfortable and vary unsightly, and
haven't received one sense the change over!

Is this big enough to use for painting the inside bed with
that gray with white spots :) truck inside the bed paint?
(TIC) I have no idea what I need to do, any information
would be a plus! TIA

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC6463.480A3660--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 13:37:24 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: Vapor Locking, Overheating
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I do not know how many of you are familiar with the 240 C.I. Straight Six,
but, I have two problems I need help with. Oh by the way, I live in Mesa
AZ, the AZ Dessert.

1. I have replaced the two vein radiator with a three vein radiator. I have
flushed and filled the cooling system, 50% anti-freeze, 50% water. I have
replaced the thermostat with a new stock thermostat, 180 degree I think. I
have replaced the water pump. I am still running the stock 4 blade fan.
When ever the temperature climbs to 100+ degrees, the temperature gauge
will climb up to 220 degrees. If I sit at a stop light for very long, the
temperature climbs to 230 degrees. It will come back down to 220 if I can
avoid stopping at any more lights for a couple of miles. I tried
fabricating a fan shroud and installing that around the radiator, but that
did not help the temperature, and actually aggravated the second problem.
Any body got any suggestions ??????

2. Once the engine temperate reaches 220 for any period of time, I dare not
pull into a shopping center and go shopping, or a 7-11 and spend more than
five minutes in there. If I let the truck sit for more than five minutes,
the engine will restart fine. It will idle O.K., but as soon as I try and
let the clutch out, the truck dies. It doesn't sputter at all, it just
quits, like I would of turned the key off. After that I have to hold the
Accelerator Pedal to the floor until the engine starts again. The engine
sounds like it is slightly flooded when it starts. I then have to sit
there and run the Rpm's up to around 2000 for a minuet or so. Once the
temperate comes back down to 220, I can usually get the truck moving, but
it will cut out a couple more times before it stays running. If I get stuck
in stop and go traffic on the, "so called", Freeway for any time, the truck
will up and die while it is idling and I am waiting for traffic to move
again.

Some back ground information on the truck. The intake manifold sits just
above the exhaust manifold, all kinds of heat rising! The truck has a 1
barrel carburetor, that I have to replace at the end of each summer because
the heat usually warps the top plate on the carburetor enough that it will
not seal, causing some nasty gas leaks and more problems. It also has an
Oil Bath Air Cleaner.

Anybody got any ideas as to what I can do to solve this problem????



>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
>1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
>My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:26:33 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: "Loose" Steering - 1966 Ford F-100
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anybody have any ideas on how I could tighten up the steering in my
truck. Right now I can turn the steering wheel around 40 degrees before it
will change direction as I am cruising down the road. The last time I had
the front end aligned, the mechanic showed me something interesting. He
grabbed the steering column shaft and turned it back and forth. As he did
this you could see the steering box flex some before it ever started moving
the pitman arm. My truck has 98,000 miles on it.

I would really like to find a way to put power steering on my truck.

>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
>1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
>My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!"



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 17:28:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Swell61 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical
Message-ID:

I have an 1984 F 250 that did that. After you bust it off it worked fine for
a fue days. One day it would not bust utill i rwmoved the battery and put it
back on. I replaced the relay and that fix my problem fo a wile and it
started a gain. Then i put an A/C delco 100 amp on it an works fine if you
dont leave you lights on. That was what started it in the first place. Good
luck Steve

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 16:44:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jesus Cardoso
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: FS: Ford 292 w/at CHEAP! Mpls (fwd)
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

I hope this is useful to someone.

Jesus Cardoso

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:24:33 -0700
From: roger nielsen
Reply-To: rlnielsen isd.net
Cc: rlsen isd.net
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: FS: Ford 292 w/at CHEAP! Mpls

for sale ford 292 ci v8 from 1955 ford w/air cooled ford o matic
it does have 98,000 miles if near minneapolis mn e-mail me with phone #
to rlsen isd.net 612 area code The friend needs the room "NOW"
Could be Really CHEAP....HINT.. HINT...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:14:32 -0700
From: John Macnamara
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Vapor Locking, Overheating
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Keith Srb wrote:
>
> I do not know how many of you are familiar with the 240 C.I. Straight Six,
> but, I have two problems I need help with. Oh by the way, I live in Mesa
> AZ, the AZ Dessert.
>
> 1. I have replaced the two vein radiator with a three vein radiator. I have
> flushed and filled the cooling system, 50% anti-freeze, 50% water. I have
> replaced the thermostat with a new stock thermostat, 180 degree I think. I
> have replaced the water pump. I am still running the stock 4 blade fan.
> When ever the temperature climbs to 100+ degrees, the temperature gauge
> will climb up to 220 degrees. If I sit at a stop light for very long, the
> temperature climbs to 230 degrees. It will come back down to 220 if I can
> avoid stopping at any more lights for a couple of miles. I tried
> fabricating a fan shroud and installing that around the radiator, but that
> did not help the temperature, and actually aggravated the second problem.
> Any body got any suggestions ??????
>
> 2. Once the engine temperate reaches 220 for any period of time, I dare not
> pull into a shopping center and go shopping, or a 7-11 and spend more than
> five minutes in there. If I let the truck sit for more than five minutes,
> the engine will restart fine. It will idle O.K., but as soon as I try and
> let the clutch out, the truck dies. It doesn't sputter at all, it just
> quits, like I would of turned the key off. After that I have to hold the
> Accelerator Pedal to the floor until the engine starts again. The engine
> sounds like it is slightly flooded when it starts. I then have to sit
> there and run the Rpm's up to around 2000 for a minuet or so. Once the
> temperate comes back down to 220, I can usually get the truck moving, but
> it will cut out a couple more times before it stays running. If I get stuck
> in stop and go traffic on the, "so called", Freeway for any time, the truck
> will up and die while it is idling and I am waiting for traffic to move
> again.
>
> Some back ground information on the truck. The intake manifold sits just
> above the exhaust manifold, all kinds of heat rising! The truck has a 1
> barrel carburetor, that I have to replace at the end of each summer because
> the heat usually warps the top plate on the carburetor enough that it will
> not seal, causing some nasty gas leaks and more problems. It also has an
> Oil Bath Air Cleaner.
>
> Anybody got any ideas as to what I can do to solve this problem????

Keith: It definitely sounds like you have a vapor lock problem and two
things come to mind immediately: electric fuel pump and possibly a....


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