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Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 13:13:00 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #118
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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 118

Today's Topics:

RE: Edelbrocks answer. [Randy Collins ]
Synthetics! ["Jim" ]
Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #67 [Dana Bartholomew
R/R Engine on Bronco ["Alexander M. Siu"
Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to ["Wagger" ]
Ford Front Discs? [Peter Bondra ]
9 inch carrier yoke bearing [John Strauss
Restoration of 1965 Ford F100 [Barry Price
RE: How much Horse Power and Torque [Kevin Kemmerer ]
71 shop manual [Stuart Varner
tuneup ["James A. Doty" ]
Re: Handling [BillyCIII aol.com ]
Paint and Corrosion! ["Jim" ]
92' F150 Flareside-Electrical ["Nancy J. Davis"
Re: tuneup [JIM HURD ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 23:59:10 -0700
From: Randy Collins
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Edelbrocks answer.
Message-ID:
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Jim,

Obviously I can only speak for myself but I learned a few things from =
the "out there" discussion (argument) on the PCV setup. Of course it =
went way to far but I HOPE NONE OF YOU LEAVE THE LIST. The ones that =
are really thinkers are the ones I want to have on the list. =20

Other than general common sense, I don't consider myself an authority on =
the subject so I stayed out. There is no way I could back down on a =
discussion if I new I was an authority and I was right. =20

Any one interested in a discussion on paint or corrosion? :) =20


Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6



-----Original Message-----
From: Jim [SMTP:jstrigas worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 1997 10:00 PM
To: fordtrucks
Subject: Edelbrocks answer.

Thanks Jim!
The only thing that I didn't realize was the small tube
headers improve fuel economy! They are the Pros, so no
argument there!
I'm sorry Harry's no longer on the list, it would have been
interesting to see if he would have changed his stand!
I had left the list for a few days, but hated being away!
I've learned something from all of this, unlike assume,
compromise makes an ass of only me! My apologies to the list
for the BS I've posted! If I am welcome back I will watch
myself, keep my post directed to honest input concerning my
experience with my Ford truck!
I would appreciate others feelings as to my returning to
the list! Before I'd cause hard feelings to members, I would
switch to the digest, and keep from posting!
I let what was happening in personal e-mail flow over to
the list. A mistake I hope not to repeat! FYI Being referred
to as smart a$$ and Dumb___ was getting me angered to the
point I to wanted to bring personal opinion to the list,
instead I made an equal mistake, to which I most humbly
apologies.

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net


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Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 23:03:28 -0700
From: "Jim"
To: "fordtrucks"
Subject: Synthetics!
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

FYI This months 5.0 Mustang has an article on Synthetics
Snake oil or Super Lubricant? They Dyno tested at Kenne Bell
and used Red Line engine ATF and Waterwetter. To keep it
short here's the results:

Baseline

Temperature:
Water: 181 degrees
Oil: 178 degrees
Trans: 160 degrees

Power:
Horsepower: 167.6 hp (avg. measured)
Torque: 209.6 lb-ft (avg. measured)

With Red Line

Temperature:
Water: 161 degrees
Oil: 161 degrees
Trans: 144 degrees

Power:
Horsepower: 171 hp (avg. measured)
Torque: 214 lb-ft (avg. measured)

Red Line can be found at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.redlineoil.com

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 00:11:47 -0700
From: Dana Bartholomew
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #67
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

>
> I am having trouble with my truck's handling. At highway speeds it
> does not want to go straight but needs constant and frequent
> corrections. Also the steering seems to react too quickly. I just
> replaced tie rod ends and other steering links and had an alignment but
> the problem continues. All ideas welcome and appreciated.
>
> Bob R.
> 1980 F-150

I had a similar problem on a 1972 CJ-5. My wife could not even drive
this thing. It went from one side of the road to the other, impossible
to keep between the lines. I also went through everything, alignment,
toe-in, caster etc. In the end it turned out to be the steering
stabilizer. It was too stiff for the lightweight of the Jeep and it
would not allow the wheels to "find center" on their own. The
stabilizer would hold the wheels at a slight angle, enough to make the
vehicle drift, you would correct it's line and it would start to drift
the other direction. I removed the stablizer at it now drives
wonderfully. I also had a bent stabilizer rod on one of my Fords
(caught a rock with a front tire while the wheel was cranked all the way
one direction while spinning in reverse.)which created some really nasty
steering problems but the cause was quite obvious on this one. Both of
my Ford 4 x 4's have steering stabilizers on them, I don't know if your
2 x has one, if not maybe this will help out someone else.
--
Dana Bartholomew
Siegfried and Roy Theater
Mirage Hotel, Las Vegas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 04:27:37 -0500 (EST)
From: "Alexander M. Siu"
To: Ford List
Cc: brokearrow aol.com
Subject: R/R Engine on Bronco
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Regarding the Engine Swap,

With the right hardware, you can replace any engine with ECU, and Emission
control on any car or truck you want.

You have a carb. 302in you bronco I am assuming, and you would like
something like a 351 HO possibly?

What you will need on top a complete engine, engine, intake, all the
sensors, you will also need a wiring harness, and computer. with those
hooked up, you truck should pass any emission test and give you the right
power.

It is actually an expensive project. the computer and wiring harness can
cost up to $1,000. Some may come with a mass air sensor.

If you want to know somemore, give me some spec. what kind of engine you
want to put in and what kind of tranny you are mating it with.



-=ALEX Siu=-

ASIU UBMail.UBalt.EDU

VOICE: (410)828-0273

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 01:38:30 -0600
From: "Wagger"
To:
Subject: Re: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element Air Cleaner.Reply
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi,
We did this on my son's 64 F-100 223, we found one in the yard that was
off of a 63 Falcon Ranchero. There are also Cal Custom style that have a
small throat but the filter costs as much as the whole thing.
Good luck,
charlie Sr.
Charlie JR 1964 F-100 223

----------
> From: Keith Srb
> To: 'Ford Trucks List 1979 and older'
> Subject: Oil Bath Air Cleaner, trying to convert to a Paper Element Air
Cleaner.
> Date: Sunday, May 18, 1997 3:10 AM
>
> Does anyone know if I can replace my entire Oil Bath Air Cleaner with a
> Paper Element Air Cleaner? It has to fit the 1 Barrel Carburetor on my
66
> F100, with a 249 C.I. Straight Six.
>
> Keith Srb
> 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
> 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
> My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!"
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:21:00 -0400
From: Peter Bondra
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Ford Front Discs?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I am upgrading a 55 panel with as many parts as I can from a 78 E150
van; I have installed the 351W, c6, power brake, full instrument panel
in the old "hole", 12v wiring, light switch in same hole with old knob
assembly, etc.etc.....my question is: does anyone know of a front brake
upgrade allowing me to use my CURRENT nearly new rebuilt front
discs/calipers off the'78 van?

It seems like the many catalogues I have use anything but these
discs/calipers, unless I missed something. It is a shame to not be able
to use them after using all the other things.

Thanks, Paul

to paraphrase an earlier: "A good set of discs/calipers are a terrible
thing to waste"!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 08:21:30 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: 9 inch carrier yoke bearing
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I noticed a leak from my differential last night. I pulled the yoke,
>figured it was the obvious - leaking seal. Well, the seal did need
>replacing but I noticed that the bearing is very worn. You can jiggle
>the yoke about 1/16th+. I think this is what caused the seal to leak.
>I've had a carrier out before and replaced the axle bearings, really >not
too big of a deal once the carrier is out (taking it out is a >hassle though).
>
Ken you really can't measure the run-out on this bearing with the yoke
removed. This is really called a pinion bearing, by the way. Anyhow, the
yoke nut loads the bearing and without this preload, it is going to seem
loose. Imagine removing the spindle nut on your front hub and then trying
to determine if your wheel bearings have any slop in them. However, a bad
pinion bearing often is the cause of a pinion seal leak.

>I don't have a clue as to how to replace the yoke bearing. Can it be
>done with the carrier in place? Do I need a special tool to take out >the
bearing and/or to put the new one in place? What do I need to do? >I'm not
timid about working on this thing, just that I lack experience >with axles
so any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
I'm not sure about this on the 9" but I think you have to pull the carrier
as the pinion has to be out to replace the bearing. I think. But I would
put it back together and see if the new seal takes care of the problem - it
did on my '90 8.8". Make sure you torque the pinion nut properly - this
provides the correct preload on the pinion bearing. By the way you really
need to replace the crush sleeve whenever you pull the pinion nut.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:28:14 -0400
From: Barry Price
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Restoration of 1965 Ford F100
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I am currently restoring a 1965 F-100 Set Side truck. At a later date I
want to enter it into some shows. My problem is I do not know what I can
do to it and still consider it restored "original". Does anyone know
where I can get the rules, regulations, etc. for restoring a truck for
show to the original condition?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 10:34:27 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: How much Horse Power and Torque can a Warner T-18 4-Speed Take?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

i have a 77 ford 4X4 i use for truck pulling it has the dana 44 front =
and 9" rear, 460, 3.50 gears,c-6 auto with low gear set. last year at =
Warren county fair running 33" bfg muds pulling the sled i broke the 9" =
rear. the pinion climbed right up the ring gear and blew the whole =
center section into 2 pieces, what a mess.
i also broke one previously in this truck, but that was the spider gears =
from too long a burnout with one tire smoking during an improptu =
competition. after removing that carrier i also noticed that the third =
pinion bearing was dimollished so the whole thing would've blew soon =
anyway.

oh, the motor may have only about 500 lbsft torque and 460 hp, no =
nitros, no alchohol, no pro street motor.
they can take alot, but it costs money to make them good if you really =
want to put the punishment to it. nodular cases help alot ($350).

fyi, the drag racer like pro stock, use aftermarket pieces, that only =
resemble a 9" ford because of the pinion and ring gear size and now they =
are using the bigger ford gears.

a dana 60 or dana 70 or 80 can take more abuse, but are heavier and take =
more power to turn.

sleddog

----------
From: sdelanty sonoma.net[SMTP:sdelanty sonoma.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 1997 10:18 PM
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: How much Horse Power and Torque can a Warner T-18 4-Speed =
Take?


>
>2. How much Horse Power and Torque can a Removable Carrier Ford 9-Inch =
Rear
End take?

Again, I can't give You any numbers, but the Ford 9" is a *very* durable =
device.
People use these rear ends with very nasty motors and acheive very low =
1/4
mile times with the 9". It's a good piece. Hard to break without blowers =
or
nitrous...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:04:46 -0700
From: Stuart Varner
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 71 shop manual
Message-id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Been a litttle out of the fray lately (My wife had our 2nd child, a boy
and, ..well, you get the picture!) and I have been trying to get caught
up on the "LIST". I will be leaving in a few days as my email/
ionrenet service doesn't go home with me from work over the summer.
Thought I'd try for a lead on a few things.

I am Looking For a 71 F-100 shop manual, anyone with knowledge of one,
I'd be much obliged. Did anyone go to Pigeon Forge? I'd be interested
in hearing about it!!! It is Ford Truck related! Thanks....see ya'll in
August.

Email (until the 22nd of May) or snail mail to:

Stu varner
751 Kindra Drive
Henderson, TN 38340
901-989-3498

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 08:20:59 -0700
From: "James A. Doty"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: tuneup
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi all:

Last weekend I went looking for the source of my poor mileage.

My friend Clint and I spent all day Saturday under the hood of my van
looking for ignition problems and vacuum leaks.

On Saturday we found that the vacuum line that closes the flapper valve was
disconnected
from the top of the air cleaner, the ignition stop solonoid(sp?) was burned
out, and the previous owner had punched four holes in the top of the air
cleaner
then attempted to seal them with a strip of masking tape.

On Sunday my father-in-law (Delvan) found that the distributor cap was broken.

Saturday we sealed the four holes in the air cleaner with duct tape (I plan
to replace
the air cleaner this Saturday if possible.), we called around and went to a
couple of
parts houses (Napa, Schucks, etc) looking for the ignition stop solonoid
and finally
discovered that it is no longer made for my vehicle. We checked five
stores with no
luck. I will call my local Ford dealer today to see if I can't get one
there. I'm
not holding my breath though. We also changed the air filter and
reconnected the
vacuum line for the flapper valve. We weren't really able to adjust the
warm and
cold idle since the ignition stop solonoid needs to be working to adjust
the fast
idle.

Sunday I took the van to Delvan to adjust the timing, but the label that
shows where
to set it was missing. I'll have to try to get that information later.
The center
connector on the distributor cap was worn pretty bad inside where it
contacts the
rotor. Turned out that the cap had aluminum connectors on it, and as it
wore out bits
of aluminum were sprinkled around the inside of the distributor cap. Also
the center
connector was broken on the inside. When we tried to unplug the coil wire
the top
of the center connector went with it and the bottom fell to the ground.

Delvan went to a local part house and picked up a high quality cap and
rotor and the
van is running pretty good now. I'll let you know if there was a change in
mileage.

Also I'd like to thank people on the list for providing valuable
information that
helped in checking my vacuum system. Although most comments weren't
directed to me
I found them useful in my case as well.
======================
James A. Doty
NT Administrator
jamesd e-z.net
E-Z Net, Inc.
209 NE 120th. Ave., Suite B
Vancouver, WA 98684
(360) 260-1122
KI7EL

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 10:28:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: BillyCIII aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Handling
Message-ID:

Bob,

Have the same problem with my 80 F 150 super cab. Have replaced the entire
front end except for the king pins and still have the problem. Also replaced
the steering box to no avail. Only thing I can think of at this point is to
add sway bars. Would also appreciate any input from the folks out there.

Bill

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:26:40 -0700
From: "Jim"
To: "Ford Trucks"
Subject: Paint and Corrosion!
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Randy Thank you!
It just so happens I have a need for advise in just your
area of expertise!
My '73 F100's inside bed is in bad need of refurbishment.
although the metal is solid it has the appearance of rust,
more than likely caused by cargo rather than it's own.
Question, what do I do to remove the corrosion, and what do
I use for coverage? I have a 4hp portable air Compressor it
has these ratings

SCFM
8.1 40psi
6.4 90psi

I do believe these ratings are of it running 120 after my
wife finished tearing me a new orifice of unspeakable
nature, I rewired it for 240. I know nothing about
electricity or women, All the cycles, amp's, AC/DC,
intensity, I wont even get into electricity! These new
orifice are quite uncomfortable and vary unsightly, and
haven't received one sense the change over!

Is this big enough to use for painting the inside bed with
that gray with white spots :) truck inside the bed paint?
(TIC) I have no idea what I need to do, any information
would be a plus! TIA

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:46:25 -0700
From: "Nancy J. Davis"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 92' F150 Flareside-Electrical
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Well, a while back I wrote about my 1992 Ford F150 Flareside failing to
run more than a few days, due to the battery going dead. We started
having the problem in May, 1996 on an intermittent basis, and more
regularly starting in November, 1996. Now, it's pretty
consistent....and, the truck has been in the dealership's service
department since early February more than it's been with us!

They can't find the problem! And, they claim they've checked with their
resources in Detroit, and still can't figure out what the problem could
be, and/or what to do to fix it!

So, now I'm left with a BEAUTIFUL truck that looks like brand new, with
a custom camper shell on it, a tent trailer painted to match, and can't
drive it anywhere because the battery will suddenly go dead for no
explained reason (and no.... it's NOT the battery! Believe me, that was
the first thing checked, and we put in six (6) different batteries
testing it!) It's not the alternator, the regulator (in the
alternator), any of the fuses (as they took them all out and we drove
it)...nor the alarm system, keyless entry system, automatic door locks,
nor anything else electrical that they can think of. They can't find
ANY draw of voltage on the battery before it takes it's dump. It's like
lightening strikes it, suddenly, and it goes completely dead in just a
minute or two! (When the vehicle is turned off!!!!)

We're now ready to install a battery buddy, a bypass system.... but that
really is not the solution! Also will impact us in trying to sell the
darn thing!

Any last minute suggestions? Answers? Similar experiences? Need to
hear from you Ford F150 electrical gurus!

Thanks !
Nancy
e-mail: nancyjd ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 12:55:16 -0500 (EST)
From: JIM HURD
To: fordtrucks ....

---

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