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Return-Path: From: fordtrucks-digest-request Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 01:55:47 -0400 (EDT) X-Authentication-Warning: t3.media3.net: lof set sender to fordtrucks-digest-request Subject: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #117 X-Loop: fordtrucks-digest X-Mailing-List: archive/volume97/117 To: fordtrucks-digest Reply-To: fordtrucks ------------------------------ Content-Type: text/plain fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 117 Today's Topics: MPG [shoyt Handling [bobr ] Re: Handling [JAMES ] Re: Handling ["Jim" ] Re: How much Horse Power and Torque [sdelanty Re: MPG ["Eric and/or Denise" RE: [DC Beatty Edelbrock's answer (to PCV ?) [JIM HURD ] Edelbrocks answer. ["Jim" ] RE: CAB MOUNTS [Randy Collins ] Administrivia: ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ____________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:00:40 -0700 From: shoyt To: fordtrucks Subject: MPG Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've got a '62 F100 with the original 292 and Ford-o-matic in it. It barely had enough power to get up steep hills, so I had the engine rebuilt and balanced about 2 years ago. This really improved the performance and my gas mileage went from 7 mpg to 11 mpg. It seems to be geared a little low, top speed is only about 80 and the road had better be level. The identiplate says axle=11, HP=135, D.S.O.=1569. I am already running 235 X 75 R15 tires, but I do still have the original front wrap exhaust (I still don't think that one was one of Ford's "better ideas"). Is this all the better I should be expecting? If not, what can I inexpensively do to improve it? Also, anybody used one of those new solid state point replacements like the "ignitor from CBS performance"? Are they worth the $80? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:45:12 -0400 From: bobr To: fordtrucks Subject: Handling Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am having trouble with my truck's handling. At highway speeds it does not want to go straight but needs constant and frequent corrections. Also the steering seems to react too quickly. I just replaced tie rod ends and other steering links and had an alignment but the problem continues. All ideas welcome and appreciated. Bob R. 1980 F-150 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:23:31 -0400 From: JAMES To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: Handling Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=gb2312 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check that the parts used are correct and all settings,caster,camber,toe-in are correct for your truck.Are both front tires the same size,brand and model?Correct inflation?Good luck -- Disregard from and reply to addresses To reply send to JAMES jtors UNSOLICITED COMMERCIAL E-MAIL WILL BE BILLED A $500.00 U.S. PROOFREADING FEE.FAILURE TO PROVIDE VALID U.S.POSTAL ADDRESS FOR SUCH BILLING OR FAILURE TO PAY WITHIN 5 DAYS OF RECIEPT WILL RESULT IN APPROPRIATE LEGAL ACTIONS ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 18:58:07 -0700 From: "Jim" To: Subject: Re: Handling Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had the same problem with my '73. It turned out to be the steering coupler at the gearbox steering shaft. once I changed it as my friends in the NWO would say, Sweeeeet! I hope this helps! ---------- > From: bobr > To: fordtrucks > Subject: Handling > Date: Sunday, May 18, 1997 5:45 PM > > I am having trouble with my truck's handling. At highway speeds it > does not want to go straight but needs constant and frequent > corrections. Also the steering seems to react too quickly. I just > replaced tie rod ends and other steering links and had an alignment but > the problem continues. All ideas welcome and appreciated. > > Bob R. > 1980 F-150 > > > _____________________________________________________________ _______ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 19:18:25 -0700 From: sdelanty To: FORDTRUCKS Subject: Re: How much Horse Power and Torque can a Warner T-18 4-Speed Take? Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >1. How much Horse Power and Torque can a Warner T-18 4-Speed take? Lots and lots and lots...(aproximately) The T-18 was used in *BIG* Ford trucks (F600's and others) as well as the smaller pickups. They came coupled to a wide variety of motors from 240/6 to big cid truck V-8's. These trannys have a uselessly low 1'st gear, and terribly wide spread ratios. They shift awesomely slow. (One potato, two potato...) BUT, they will take more torque and horsepower than most sane people care to generate in a pickup if You don't stomp it too hard in 1st gear. > >2. How much Horse Power and Torque can a Removable Carrier Ford 9-Inch Rear End take? Again, I can't give You any numbers, but the Ford 9" is a *very* durable device. People use these rear ends with very nasty motors and acheive very low 1/4 mile times with the 9". It's a good piece. Hard to break without blowers or nitrous... >1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box. I can guess where all this is leading... (-: When I got my 1971 F100, 240cid/6 with Warner T-18 4-speed, Short box (fender mounted spare tire), with 3.50:1 9" rearend, the 240 was shot beyond repair. I can tell You the FE family bolts right up to the T-18, with the correct (stock, easy to find) bell housing. I really love the FE390 that now pushes my little truck down the road, and it was an *extremely* easy swap. I've got 300+ hp and 450+ ft lbs, and I'm not the least bit worried about breaking the T-18 or 9". I know that 289/302/351 also bolt up to the T-18(with correct bellhousing), and I'm not positive, but I believe the 429/460 also works with T-18. Lotsa choices for motors if You wanna do a swap... Happy motoring, Steve Delanty (sdelanty ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:55:56 -0500 From: "Eric and/or Denise" To: Subject: Re: MPG Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey Steven, I'm looking in my '61 service manual for the following info, but I'm assuming that it will be the same for your '62, as well. > I've got a '62 F100 with the original 292 and Ford-o-matic in it. It > barely had enough power to get up steep hills, so I had the engine > rebuilt and balanced about 2 years ago. This really improved the > performance and my gas mileage went from 7 mpg to 11 mpg. My '61 has a rebuilt 1959 292 (about 30K ago) with a 4 on the floor. The last time I checked, I got consistant 13MPG. (This was for 2000 mile trip when I picked it up, this past December). I have since that time been going through the engine (tuneup wise) and other aspects of the truck to make it my daily driver, and I'm hoping to be able to check my mileage this week. I expect that I will get at least a couple of clicks better, based on the tune (lack-of) of the engine and "parts" that I replaced with new. Judging from your 11 MPG I guess I'm lucky that mine got 13MPG in such bad tune! >It seems to > be geared a little low, top speed is only about 80 and the road had > better be level. Mine is geared low, too. I've got a 3.92 gear (spicer) limited slip differential, but I do have a bunch o'torque.....I usually don't drive it faster than 60MPH, though...Our trucks are about 36 years old.... they were made for pulling stumps - not screaming down the modern highway at 80+mph!!! ;-O Just for comparison, here's a couple of things mine has that you mentioned: 215X75 R15 Tires (BTW, Does anybody know what was the stock tire for this truck? I haven't found this info in my manual.) Stock "wrap around" exhaust...and the rest of the truck is pretty much stock. >The identiplate says axle=11, HP=135, D.S.O.=1569. Axle=11 = 3.70 gears in rear end HP = 135 = 135 DSO = 1569 - My manual does not break this number out. Your VIN has additional info encoded in it, such as the type rear end your truck came with, where it was assembled, when (month and year) it was made, etc... You may have seen a few people's posts awhile back how you can write Ford and get all kinds of info for your truck.... well don't bother! FOMOCO didn't break out half the information that my service manual gave me! (They said that they don't keep records past 1967.) >I am already running 235 X 75 R15 tires, but I do still have the original > front wrap exhaust (I still don't think that one was one of Ford's > "better ideas"). Is this all the better I should be expecting? If not, > what can I inexpensively do to improve it? > Also, anybody used one of those new solid state point replacements like > the "ignitor from CBS performance"? Are they worth the $80? Let me know if you find any info about these solid state replacements, and I'll do the same. Later, Eric petunia ============================= "Happy Days" 1961 F100 Pick'em up Unibody Truck w/'59 292 Y-block ============================= ------------------------------ Date: 18 May 97 23:23:11 EDT From: DC Beatty To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks Subject: RE: Message-ID: Thanks Ken, but the high price was just what I was trying to avoid, and the junkyard guys around here laugh at me when I ask them. Only newer stuff gets wrecked here, I guess. Ever messed with the cab mounts?? Thanks, DC Beatty 1967 F-100 352 1974 Maverick 302 ---------- From: INTERNET:fordtrucks Sent: Sunday, May 18, 1997 11:45 AM To: INTERNET:fordtrucks Subject: Re: At 01:32 AM 5/18/97 EDT, you wrote: >I noticed today that one of the lower rubber bushings on my cab mount is >missing. It's the rubber donut looking thing with the metal washer holding it >in. Anybody know the procedure for fixing this? > >I am also in the market for some decent headlight doors for a 67 F-100 if >anybody has extra. > >Thanks, >DC Beatty >1967 F-100 352 >1974 Maverick 302 > > >>>>>Several of the companies on our suppliers list (on the web site) sell headlight doors. Be aware that they are very pricey ($100-$125 each). -Ken Payne 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8 List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions. Visit the Ford Truck Enthusiast List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 23:52:05 -0500 (EST) From: JIM HURD To: fordtrucks Subject: Edelbrock's answer (to PCV ?) Message-id: Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT 7 EDELBROCK TECH edelbrock To Harry Jennings hjennings manifold is always the best choice for "mild" street performance, and would give better mileage than the Performer RPM package, which is a more radical, "street and strip" set-up. This i s forturate in your case, as we don't make a Performer RPM package for the 351-M engine. Always use the PCV valve provisions on a street engine. You'll make more power from the positive removal of crankcase pressure than you would if the system were just vented to atmosphere. It's really tough to guess what your ultimate mileage goal might be, but I'll go out on a limb and say 16 to 18 m.p.g. would be pretty good for this vehicle. If you really want to squeeze every last bit of mileage from it, be sure to use smallish-sized headers (1-1/2" would be good), use our #1406 600 c.f.m. carb (economy calibration), and maybe look into our Air/Fuel Ratio monitor #6593 along with a #1487 calibration kit. These will enable you to get the air/fuel ratio perfectly tun ed for your vehicle, which is necessary for optimum results. With perfect tuning, you might even see the far side of 20 m.p.g. Thanks, Tom Dufur edelbrock ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:59:46 -0700 From: "Jim" To: "fordtrucks" Subject: Edelbrocks answer. Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks Jim! The only thing that I didn't realize was the small tube headers improve fuel economy! They are the Pros, so no argument there! I'm sorry Harry's no longer on the list, it would have been interesting to see if he would have changed his stand! I had left the list for a few days, but hated being away! I've learned something from all of this, unlike assume, compromise makes an ass of only me! My apologies to the list for the BS I've posted! If I am welcome back I will watch myself, keep my post directed to honest input concerning my experience with my Ford truck! I would appreciate others feelings as to my returning to the list! Before I'd cause hard feelings to members, I would switch to the digest, and keep from posting! I let what was happening in personal e-mail flow over to the list. A mistake I hope not to repeat! FYI Being referred to as smart point I to wanted to bring personal opinion to the list, instead I made an equal mistake, to which I most humbly apologies. Jim Strigas jstrigas ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 23:49:02 -0700 From: Randy Collins To: "'fordtrucks Subject: RE: CAB MOUNTS Message-ID: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC63E6.149B9620" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC63E6.149B9620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable DC, I have done all the mounts on my project Ford. The mounts I have done = include replacing all of the rubber mounts with the newer urethane type. = All of the mounts include 4 cab mounts, the 2 on the front clip, 6 on = the springs, and more for the sway bars. All thought the truck is still = quite a way from being on the road, I assume the urethane bushings under = the cab will transmit much more road noise and a stiffer feel to the = cab. I would think that this wouldn't be desirable to most folks. =20 If the 67-72 style cab mounts are the same as the 73 to 79 types of = mounts, they aren't much fun to replace. On these mounts in addition to = the two piece rubber there is two metal pieces that hold them together. = On the rear cab mounts the procedure for removal is pretty simple. You = remove the bolt from inside the cab. Thread the bolt in a few turns in = from the under the cab and use a punch inside the cab to drive the = mounts apart. On the front cab mounts you can't get on top of them to = drive them out with a hammer. I welded a bolt with the correct bolt = pattern to a slide hammer to remove these. Since I have several of the = old Fords I had the opportunity to try it out on 4 sets of front cab = mounts. I was successful in removing only one of them with the slide = hammer. The rest I had to remove with a cutoff blade in a 4" Makita. = It isn't much fun. =20 If you intend to reuse the steel portions of the mounts you will need to = ground down the top portion because it mushrooms a little. =20 If you have more questions or my directions aren't' clear, drop me a = note. I am pretty sure I have a parts breakdown I could e-mail to you. = Randy Collins Boise, Idaho rcollins 1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces) Soon to have the following Randy installed options: F250 4WD 460 C-6 -----Original Message----- From: DC Beatty [SMTP:104452.1362 Sent: Sunday, May 18, 1997 8:23 PM To: 'INTERNET:fordtrucks Subject: RE:=20 Thanks Ken, but the high price was just what I was trying to avoid, and = the junkyard guys around here laugh at me when I ask them. Only newer stuff = gets wrecked here, I guess.=20 Ever messed with the cab mounts?? Thanks, DC Beatty 1967 F-100 352 1974 Maverick 302 ---------- From: INTERNET:fordtrucks Sent: Sunday, May 18, 1997 11:45 AM To: INTERNET:fordtrucks Subject: Re: At 01:32 AM 5/18/97 EDT, you wrote: >I noticed today that one of the lower rubber bushings on my cab mount = is >missing. It's the rubber donut looking thing with the metal washer = holding it >in. Anybody know the procedure for fixing this?=20 > >I am also in the market for some decent headlight doors for a 67 F-100 = if >anybody has extra.=20 > >Thanks, >DC Beatty >1967 F-100 352 >1974 Maverick 302 > > >>>>>Several of the companies on our suppliers list (on the web site) = sell headlight doors. Be aware that they are very pricey ($100-$125 = each). -Ken Payne 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8 List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions. Visit the Ford Truck Enthusiast List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC63E6.149B9620 Content-Type: application/ms-tnef Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 eJ8+IgkGAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQ2ABAACAAAAAgACAAEEkAYAsAEAAAEAAAAQAAAAAwAAMAIAAAAL AA8OAAAAAAIB/w8BAAAASQAAAAAAAACBKx+kvqMQGZ1uAN0BD1QCAAAAAGZvcmR0cnVja3NAbG9m Y29tLmNvbQBTTVRQAGZvcmR0cnVja3NAbG9mY29tLmNvbQAAAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAA AB4AAzABAAAAFgAAAGZvcmR0cnVja3NAbG9mY29tLmNvbQAAAAMAFQwBAAAAAwD+DwYAAAAeAAEw AQAAABgAAAAnZm9yZHRydWNrc0Bsb2Zjb20uY29tJwACAQswAQAAABsAAABTTVRQOkZPUkRUUlVD 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