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Return-Path: From: fordtrucks-digest-request Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 16:23:16 -0400 (EDT) X-Authentication-Warning: t3.media3.net: lof set sender to fordtrucks-digest-request Subject: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #96 X-Loop: fordtrucks-digest X-Mailing-List: archive/volume97/96 To: fordtrucks-digest Reply-To: fordtrucks ------------------------------ Content-Type: text/plain fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 96 Today's Topics: Re: Axle Tag Numbers ["Jim" ] '77 F150 gear ratio [John Strauss KOEO/KOER code check [John Strauss Re: RV Cam in a 460 [John Macnamara ] Holly 1850-2 applactions? [cableeng Greg Hendricks Re: your mail [Christopher Rogers Holly 1850-2 applications (ci. ect) [cableeng RE: F150 Hesitation ?? [Phil Conrad Re: Getting better gas mileage PCV ( ["Harry Jennings" Re: Getting better gas mileage PCV ( [sdelanty Re: 0-1850 Holly [JIM HURD ] Re: Getting better gas mileage PCV ( [JIM HURD ] Administrivia: ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ____________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 05:56:24 -0700 From: "Jim" To: Subject: Re: Axle Tag Numbers Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry that's all I have. My tag is WDM-AC 2LD 3.25 9 331 A > WDM-BR 86B > 2 75 9 385B I thought If I put them next to each other, they would be self explanatory! I was wrong "/! I hope you get a better answer than this! Jim Strigas jstrigas '73 Ford F100 (302 2bbl C4 Auto Ford 9" 3.25. Daily driver) '83 Yamaha XJ900RK (Best Gift of my life! From my best friends! RSCL) '77 Buick EstateWagon (Beast of Immense Magnitude!) These are "The Good Old Days"! Be Cool Daddy-O B-)> ---------- > From: Kevin Lindstedt > To: fordtrucks > Subject: Axle Tag Numbers > Date: Tuesday, May 06, 1997 4:35 AM > > Attention all you number decoders - ;^) > > I finally crawled under my truck to read the tag on the rear axle and wrote > down the following: > > > I figure the "2 75" is the ratio (good thing too - I got a thirsty 460) but > can anyone tell me what the other numbers mean? Do they describe > positraction or other such options? Thanks. > > Kevin Lindstedt > 1978 F150 460/C6 Ranger Lariat > > > _____________________________________________________________ _______ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:26:07 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: Ford Trucks List Subject: '77 F150 gear ratio Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >We received our Ford build sheet today and it said our truck came with a >3.50 conventional rear axle. We are still not very well educated on axle >ratios so could someone explain what this means and if it is considered >high or low? > This means the driveshaft turns 3.5 times for every 1 revolution of the wheels. This is not really high or low - kind of in between. >Also, we use this truck as a daily driver and light off road. What would >be a better ratio to have? > A 3.08 would give you better MPG most likely but the 3.50 is fine for general use and will allow you to tow stuff if you need to. Just FYI both my F150 and my Bronco (my daily drivers) have the 3.55 rear but they do have OD trannies. John ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:26:08 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: Ford Trucks List Subject: KOEO/KOER code check Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Is there some other device in the fuel system that could be causing low = >pressure, boosters maybe. My truck has a 155" wheel base. Lots of = >distance for a small electric pump. > >Should I just pay for another code check. Anyone know any good places = >to go in Los Angeles area? > You can do this yourself with nothing more than a jumper wire. Call Classic Motorbooks at 800.826.6600 and order "How to Tune and Modify Ford Fuel Injection" by Ben Watson for $19.95 which will explain how to get the codes and what they mean. Or you can probably pick it up at a local bookstore as well. This book will pay for itself in one use as opposed to paying a shop to do it for you. John ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 07:13:27 -0700 From: John Macnamara To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: RV Cam in a 460 Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Abajo, Ed wrote: > > >John Macnamara wrote: > > > >>My first F250 had an rv cam and it matched up well with the 4.10 ratio. > >>Currently I have a Supercab with 3.55 gears. When I built my 460 I used > >>a 260 degree cam so I would have more bottom end with the taller gears. > > > Is there any way I can verify that I have an RV cam installed? I assume > from your lack of comment that there are no tune-up considerations > involved; ie. the timing and point-gap spark-plug gap all stay the same > as stock. Is that correct? Thanks for your help. > > >Ed Abajo > >1973 F-250 > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne Ed: I didn't see my response posted so maybe it didn't get through. There's no real way to tell if you have an rv cam. If you took it out it wouldn't have any numbers or manufacturer logos to help you identify it. All I can tell you is that in my first truck with the 4.10 gears and 260 degree competition cams cam, the truck pulled really good at freeway speeds towing heavy weights (boats and trailers). It took a while to get the weight moving but once I was doing 60 mpg nothing would slow it down. The purpose of the rv cam is to give you the optimun torque curve at freeway speed (55 mph). As to tuning. After installing my 460's, I took my trucks to Jennings Dyno shop here in the San Fernando Valley and had them jet the carburetor and recurve the distributor. Any time you change somethinglike a carburetor or cam or heads,etc. The engine is different and if you want it to run properly it should be fine tuned. Some people like to do this themselves which is great. I could never in a million years got my present truck to run as good as it does now with out the dyno tune. As I mentioned in an earlier post. When the shop finished the tuneup, my truck was putting out more than 40hp more than a Dodge V10. Need I say more. To sooth the anti horsepower folks out there, I would like to make one comment. Horsepower is king, but torque rules the road. Build your motor for torque, not horsepower and you will be forever happy! Just my .02c! John 78 F250 4X4 Supercab 67 GT500 66 Corvette 427 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 10:22:34 -0500 From: cableeng To: fordtrucks Subject: Holly 1850-2 applactions? Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:43:16 -0500 >To:forftrucks >From:cableeng >Subject:Holly 1850-2 applactions? > >>X-Authentication-Warning: t3.media3.net: lof set sender to >>fordtrucks-request >>Mime-Version: 1.0 >>Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 14:26:20 -0500 >>To: fordtrucks >>From: cableeng >>Subject: Unidentified subject! >>X-Loop: fordtrucks >>Precedence: list >>X-Distributed-By: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ >>Reply-To: fordtrucks >> >>Holly 1850-2 squair bore, any idia of cfm and application? I have two and >>would like to install one on a 351w smogger (1980) w/automatic. whatda >>think? >> >>I have inquired on Holly home page, got no answer...help thanks in advance >> >>Douglas Minnick, WD4BSB >>Television Engineer >>Va Tech University >>204 Saunders Hall >>Blacksburg, Va. >>24061-0307 >>cableeng >> >> >>PS: sorry for sending org. message w/o subject listed!!! >>____________________________________________________________________ >>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ >>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request >>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne >> > Douglas Minnick, WD4BSB Television Engineer Va Tech University 204 Saunders Hall Blacksburg, Va. 24061-0307 cableeng ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 14:27:27 +0000 From: Greg Hendricks To: fordtrucks Subject: Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have a 97 Ranger 4x4 Supercab that came with the Premium stereo in it. It has CD controls but not the 6 disc changer. Does anyone know if an aftermarket CD-changer would be compatible with the factory stereo? I have priced the Ford Changer and it costs $460 plus $120 for wiring harness plus labor. Or maybe does someone know where I could find a used Ford Changer(junkyard possibly)? Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks, Greg Hendricks ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:38:32 -0400 (EDT) From: Christopher Rogers To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: your mail Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit iCheck out the harness, maybe you can buy it seperately. My bet is that the changer is made by Pioneer or Sony, and the harness converts the Ford plugs to what they (Sony or Pioneer) use on their changers. If this works you could buy the harness from Ford, and the changer from some aftermarket company. Chris carogers > > I have a 97 Ranger 4x4 Supercab that came with the Premium stereo in it. It > has CD controls but not the 6 disc changer. Does anyone know if an > aftermarket CD-changer would be compatible with the factory stereo? I have > priced the Ford Changer and it costs $460 plus $120 for wiring harness plus > labor. Or maybe does someone know where I could find a used Ford > Changer(junkyard possibly)? Any info would be much appreciated. > > > Thanks, > Greg Hendricks > > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 12:55:30 -0500 From: cableeng To: fordtrucks Subject: Holly 1850-2 applications (ci. ect) and cfm Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Can anyone help me with info on this square bore Holly. I want to use one the of two 1850-2's I have on a 80 model 351w. If flow is too great can I rejet? Douglas Minnick, WD4BSB Television Engineer Va Tech University 204 Saunders Hall Blacksburg, Va. 24061-0307 cableeng ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:58:18 -0700 From: Phil Conrad To: "'fordtrucks Subject: RE: F150 Hesitation ?? Message-Id: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC5A04.075DFB60" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC5A04.075DFB60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Wow ! This may be basic to you guys but to me this is "rocket science". =20 Let me get this straight, I need to take a plain piece of wire and jump = the SRP with the SRI ? I know where the SRI is located because my = friendly dealer left the dust cover off after doing the last test, and = my astute neighbor explained that this is where the tech taps into the = computer. Anyway, On my truck it is right up against the fire wall on = the drivers side in the corner. So I jump the wire from the SRI test = input plug and the other end goes WHERE ?. The SRP is located WHERE ? = I'm guessing that this pin is on the back of the MIL. Is this right = ? Can you give me any indication of what this pin looks like or is = there a label or number on the pin that says SRP. Is there a wire color = ? I'm following your explanation fairly well and from what it sounds like = I should be able to do this test. One question though, how is the test = initiated. Will the EEC-IV start its test cycle when I connect these = two points together or is it initiated when I turn the key on for the = KOEO test. Also, how is the test initiated for the ER test. Should I = connect the jumper wire, then start the engine. I'm pretty excited about going home tonight and giving this a try. In = the high school and college days we had to do the best guess trial and = error method. I know do-it-yourselfers complain about loosing control = when trying to fix their vehicle because of computers, but from what I = can see this is a god sent, when you know what you doing. Thank God for this listserve and the technological age. I'm just = excited, no theological debates please. Thanks again and look forward to any additional info on how to locate = the SRP. Phil Conrad =20 ---------- From: JIM HURD[SMTP:HURDJ Sent: Monday, May 05, 1997 2:35 PM To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: F150 Hesitation ?? Phil, You can use the diagnostic capabilities of the EEV-IV to help you identify the part that is causing the problem so you can "swap it out" if that is necessary. For a basic diagnostic check I don't *think* you need any special instrumentation. At least I don't on the '92 Topaz. I just connect a=20 jumper wire between the SRP (Signal return pin) and the STI (Self-test input) terminal of the EEC-IV connector. With this connection, the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light - better know as the "check engine light") will flash the trouble codes when you run the KOEO (key-on, engine-off) diagnostic routine. When you run the KOEO test, you will hear the EEC-IV cycle the cooling fan, click numerous selinoids, check various sensors, and then the MIL will flash a code for any thing that it finds out of spec. If you get a flash-flash-flash (code 111) it passed all the tests. After a pause, it will then flash any "continuous memory" codes. These are codes of any problem(s) that the EEC-IV had found in the past while you were driving the vehicle. Again, if you get the flash-flash-flash (code 111), it didn't have any stored codes. The EEC-IV is pretty smart too, cause if it stores a continuous memory code and it doesn't find that problem again after 80 start cycles (you start the engine 80 times) it will clear the code from continuous memory. There is an ER (engine Running) set of tests where the EEC-IV will shut down each fuel injector and measure the rpm drop to identify any cylinder that is not up to snuff. (In the old days, we used to call this = a cylinder balance test). It will also ramp the injectors way rich and way lean to check your O2 (Oxygen sensor) to see if it is responding correctly. But now I am getting carried away. Just start off with the KOEO test and see what the EEC-IV tells you. Jim in Central NY '79 F-150 (302!) '92 Topaz (3.0l) ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC5A04.075DFB60 Content-Type: application/ms-tnef Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 eJ8+IhUQAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAENgAQAAgAAAAIAAgABBJAG ACQBAAABAAAADAAAAAMAADADAAAACwAPDgAAAAACAf8PAQAAAEkAAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmdbgDd AQ9UAgAAAABmb3JkdHJ1Y2tzQGxvZmNvbS5jb20AU01UUABmb3JkdHJ1Y2tzQGxvZmNvbS5jb20A AAAAHgACMAEAAAAFAAAAU01UUAAAAAAeAAMwAQAAABYAAABmb3JkdHJ1Y2tzQGxvZmNvbS5jb20A AAADABUMAQAAAAMA/g8GAAAAHgABMAEAAAAYAAAAJ2ZvcmR0cnVja3NAbG9mY29tLmNvbScAAgEL MAEAAAAbAAAAU01UUDpGT1JEVFJVQ0tTQExPRkNPTS5DT00AAAMAADkAAAAACwBAOgEAAAACAfYP AQAAAAQAAAAAAAAD0jcBCIAHABgAAABJUE0uTWljcm9zb2Z0IE1haWwuTm90ZQAxCAEEgAEAGAAA 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>References: >Mime-Version: 1.0 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >To: fordtrucks >From: Chris North >Subject: Re: Getting better gas mileage PCV (The Right Stuff!)-long >X-Loop: fordtrucks >Precedence: list >X-Distributed-By: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ >Reply-To: fordtrucks > >I am suprised that all this discussion on the PCV system has not discussed >the 'REAL' purpose of the PCV system. (I'm a little behind in my mail!) > >The blowby produced in an internal combustion engine contains many gasses, >particularly water vapor and oxides of nitrogen (NOx). When NOx and H2O >mix, you form acids (nitric, nitrous, etc...) With 'Passive' crankcase >ventilation, *some* of these gasses will pass through the vent, but others >will build up in the motor oil, producing sludge and corrosive acids, >neither of which does any particular good for the internals of your motor. >With 'Positive' crackcase ventilation, the crankcase is constantly swept >with fresh air (while the oil is hot), greatly reducing the sludge and acid >buildup in the engine oil. > The fact is it was rebuilt. I diconnected the PCV valve, and gained power and MPG. I have no oil leaks (even after 80,000 mi). If my engine is worn out then I will take my worn out mileage (average 17/highway 21) over a *good* engine any day. Just to let you guys know, not all cars used a PCV valve. As a matter of fact, some NEW cars do not have them! Harry. >Some marine internal combustion engines, which do not have to meet as >strict emissions standards vent the crankcase into the exhaust. This >produces sufficient flow through the crankcase at high rpm. At low rpm >(idle), it does not do as well, but marine engines don't typically idle >much. > >With a strong engine that has good rings, the amount of blowby should be >minimal compared to the amount of fresh air running through the system. >And much of the blowby occurs on the compression stroke, before combustion, >and more before combustion is complete (very little occurs during the >exhaust stroke), so Yes, it does burn. > >In short, disabling the PCV system is a very bad thing (tm) for several >reasons: > >1) It's against the law >2) It supports the Eco-nazis claim that automotive enthusiasts are bad >polluters >3) If it improves your MPG, then your engine is not operating efficiently >anyway (most likely, rings shot and/or carb jetted wrong) and you will get >even better milage by fixing your motor, and >4) your oil wears out much faster, futher contributing to the deterioration >of the motor (downward spiral) > >With all you collage students, I am suprised you haven't read up on the >workings of an internal combustion motor. The above discussion is covered >in just about *every* Chilton's manual. Maybe todays colleges don't teach >things like reading and comprehending anymore. Things must have changed >since I was a student. > >Chris North | I always think I'm right although I know that | >Metallurgist | I must be wrong sometimes, I think. | > > > >____________________________________________________________________ >Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ >For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request >Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne > --------------------------------------------------------- Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:33:43 -0700 From: sdelanty To: FORDTRUCKS Subject: Re: Getting better gas mileage PCV (The Right Stuff!)-long Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thank You Chris North , For finally getting down to the real purpose of PCV. It stands for "Positive Crankcase Ventilation". And it flushes most of the nasty combustion/precombustion gases out of the crankcase before they do chemical harm. And if it works better without PCV, than something else is wrong. Gee, I'm glad someone else here did take high school auto shop... Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! post somewhat shortened: >I am suprised that all this discussion on the PCV system has not discussed >the 'REAL' purpose of the PCV system. (I'm a little behind in my mail!) > >The blowby produced in an internal combustion engine contains many gasses, >particularly water vapor and oxides of nitrogen (NOx). When NOx and H2O >mix, you form acids (nitric, nitrous, etc...) With 'Passive' crankcase >ventilation, *some* of these gasses will pass through the vent, but others >will build up in the motor oil, producing sludge and corrosive acids, >neither of which does any particular good for the internals of your motor. >With 'Positive' crackcase ventilation, the crankcase is constantly swept >with fresh air (while the oil is hot), greatly reducing the sludge and acid >buildup in the engine oil. > >With a strong engine that has good rings, the amount of blowby should be >minimal compared to the amount of fresh air running through the system. >And much of the blowby occurs on the compression stroke, before combustion, >and more before combustion is complete (very little occurs during the >exhaust stroke), so Yes, it does burn. >With all you collage students, I am suprised you haven't read up on the >workings of an internal combustion motor. The above discussion is covered >in just about *every* Chilton's manual. Maybe todays colleges don't teach >things like reading and comprehending anymore. Things must have changed >since I was a student. Yes, this PCV info does appear in many shop manuals and it's benefits have certainly been well known and proven fact for decades now. I never even made it to college, but I was taught about PCV in basic engine theory class in my Freshman year of High school back in '74. It seemed basic enough for most stoned teenagers to comprehend what it does and why. I did... Glad someone else does too. Happy motoring, Steve Delanty (sdelanty ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 14:43:31 -0500 (EST) From: JIM HURD To: fordtrucks To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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