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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 89

Today's Topics:

Re: rear axle ratio,last resort mrth [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 427) [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
Re:mileage/electronic ignition how 2 [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
Rear Axle Ratio [rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier) ]
Re: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 4 [Daver ]
Re: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 4 [Daver ]
Re: Split Fire and 351M/W difference ["James A. Doty" ]
Re: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 4 [Daver ]
Re: mileage/electronic ignition how [Daver ]
Re: Split Fire [William Sabers
Re: Amp light in console [Anthony Ricotta
Re: Split Fire and 351M/W difference [Chris North ]
Re: Slick 50 [Larry Wiandt ]
Truck bed info ["Lee Hardy" ]
Re: Drivshaft and rear end '39 [JRFiero aol.com ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 21:15:58 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: rear axle ratio,last resort mrthod
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>if you can't tell your ratio for sure by counting number of driveshaft rev to
>equal one (1) complete turn of your rear wheel,than remove the inspection
>plate on the differential,count the number of teeth on the big gear(ring
>gear) and then count the number of teeth on the pinion gear(smaller gear) and
>divide the larger gears teeth by the smaller gears teeth,and carry over the
>fraction(example) large gear has 37 teeth,small gear has 9 ,your ratio would
>be 4.11


Unless You've got a 9" rear end. Then the inspection plate is a tad
difficult to find.... (remove axles and pumpkin to view the goods.)

If You are careful, chalk mark and spin the driveshaft method is accurate
enough.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 21:16:02 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 427)
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"



>> I've heard from several people that I thought were "in the know" that
>> only *some* 390 blocks were capable of supporting a 4.130" bore.
>> Something about certain truck blocks and/or "replacement" blocks and/or...?

>Ok Steve I have done some reserch for you on this .
>
>The following is an excerpt from Ford Performance by Pat Ganahl page 44
>
>Both the 352 and the 390 blocks can be bored to 428 size (4.13 inches);

Does this mean then, all 390 blocks? Have You done this?
If so, what block did You use?

>'68 and '69 428 blocks reputedlyweremade with more metal between the
>bores and slightly beefier main webbing. All replacement 428 blocks
>sold by Ford after '74 were bored out 391 truck blocks, characterized by
>vertical ribs on the outside of the block plus a 3/8" pipe plug at the
>lower side of the block for the truck-engine external oil return line.

Hmmm, O.K., my block has some "ribs". There are 3 vertical ribs 0n the 5-7 side,
slightly rearward of the motor mount, and 2 ribs near the rear of the block.
There are also 5 ribs on the 1-4 side, near the front of the motor.
These are all about 5/16" wide x maybe 4-5" long, and only stand about 1/16"
above the block. They look more "decorative" than structural.
Are these the "ribs" Ganahl means?

Where's this pipe plug at? I don't see any 3/8" pipe plugs on my block.
There's two 1/4" plugs, one on each side, but I'm pretty sure these go into
the water jackets.(drains)

Also maybe You can explain about 390 vs 391. I've never understood the
differences between the two. I always thought that 391's were used in
-large- trucks, but am clueless about the differences...
I'm pretty sure I've got a 390, not 391... but..?


>ps If you Really want the 390/427 combo I'll give it to you but the 406
>is better for constant street use.
>

Well, actually the 406 is more appealing to me, both from a daily driver
reliability aspect, and from a financial aspect.
I would like to try the 406 at next rebuild.
However, I'd love to know how the 427 build is done. I *do* have aceess to a
well trusted machinist, and an open invitation to use his equipment myself.
It would be interesting to "practice" on a junk block and see how it goes.
(Oh God, not another project...)

I'd love any tech info about both builds, but 406 is more practical for me.

Thanx,

Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 21:16:09 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re:mileage/electronic ignition how 2
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>How do you deal with a junkyard distributor, brain box, etc. that is wired with
>>harnesses?
It's taped. Unwrap it or carefully slice it. (only the tape now, not the
wires...)

I would like to put Motocraft breakerless in my '67 but most of the
>>distributors etc. I see are wired together all nice and tidy in harnesses. My
>>Maverick is this way. By the way, not once has this the ignition let me down.

>With your engine I am not sure (352). He is what I know. Lets pretend you
have a
>302. First locate a truck w/ a 302 and eletronic ignition.


>The reason I used a 302 for my example is that I do not know what dist. will
>interchange with the 352 or if they made the 352 with electronic ignition. I
>guess you would know.

I may know this one, allow me to intervene. (I just recently played this game)
Let's pretend He's got a FE352 and that the 302 distributor doesn't fit.
(It doesn't) However, the 302 "black box" and connectors and cap/rotor stuff
works fine with FE.

The Ford Duraspark system, complete with magnetic pickup distributor was
only offered 1 0r 2 Years on FE's. The FE's were available in trucks thru 1976.
Mag pickup duraspark was available on FE's in 1976 and I think '75.
First locate a 1975-'76 FE truck and rob it of it's distributor, it's
black box and all related connectors and wires. Untape the wires and cut
them to be as long as possible. An origional '76 distributor is likely to be
rather sloppy, so prepare to exchange for a rebuild if necessary.

Or, go to Your trusted parts house and ask for a rebuilt distributor for a
'76 pickup with a FE360.
I got a nice rebuilt magnetic pickup distributor with centrifugal and vacuum
advance for $40, plus $30 core charge.
The parts guy didn't care if the core was a magpickup from a 302 (which are
plentiful), so I got a core at the wrecking yard (from an'80 econoline van)
for $10 and retrieved my $30 core charge.
Total cost for *rebuilt* magpickup/duraspark FE dist... $50
My 390 is much smoother now and I don't miss the points a bit.. (-:

You can get the duraspark "black box" from Your parts man or from the
wrecking yard(cheaper), when You go get Your '76 FE dist, or 302 "core" dist.
302 mag pickup "black boxes" and all the connectors are plentiful at the
wreckers and are the same as for FE. (and offered for many more years.)

Other: The other nice thing to find is the "cap adaptor" and large diameter
distributor cap and rotor that takes the 8mm wires. Many late 70's-80's
duraspark 302's came with these "cap adaptors". I got a 302 adaptor, cap
and rotor for $1 at the wreckers (out of a 1980 302 Econoline van), took it
home and realised that it fits the FE distributor. (-:

Now I run good 8mm wires on a "stock" big cap electronic FE distributor.
Love it.

One other mention is that the duraspark dist will directly drive an MSD6
box... which I do.
You don't need the duraspark black box, only the FE durastributor, the dist
harness plug, and an MSD6A + coil.
A very effective multiple spark ign system for relatively low $$.

Even the stock duraspark sytem will be a good improvement over the points setup.
I highly recommend it.

The rest of this looks like fairly good advise...

>>Once you find one
>>remove the wrapping from the wires (its just tape). Next unplug the
harness from
>>the dist., 'box', and the truck. Don't be scared by ALL THOSE WIRES, most of
>>them just run between the 'box' and dist.
>>
>>There are two sets of wires coming out of the 'box'. One set goes to the
dist.
>>and the other goes to the truck firewall (you will also need the plug so just
>>cut the wires that run to the firewall on the truck side).
>>
>>Remove the dist., 'box', and all the wires.
>>
>>Now on your truck: First remove your dist. and swap the new on in. Find a
nice
>>place to mount the 'box'. Hook up the harness between the dist. and box
>>(sometimes the wires will have to be made longer. I made mine longer, ran the
>>wires down the intake and to the 'box' that I had mounted on the fenderwell,
>>wrapped them with tape, and it looks factory). Now you are almost done since
>>that hooks all but two wires.
>>
>>Now for those last two wires (the only two you really have to mess with). You
>>will need a manual to check the colors. On color is hot on run and the
other is
>>hot on start. The on that is hot on run you hook up to the wire that (stock)
>>goes to your dist. (you may need to replace this wire with one without a
>>resistor as the electronic ignition doesn't use a resistor). For the other
wire
>>I ran a wire to the ignition and hooked it up to a "hot on start" wire.

O.K....
In '76 The red one goes to the hot side of the ign resistor.
The white one is hot only during cranking. It retards the timing several
degrees to make for easier starting. The white wire can be taped off and
ignored unless You have trouble with excess ign advance during hot cranking...

After '76 there may not be a ign resistor. The red goes to the coil + side,
and the white wire can be used or ignored as above...

I like zip ties (tyewraps) to bundle my wires and keep things neat. Spiral
loom or heat shrink tubing can be used with nice results as well.

FE's forever...

Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 23:19:09 -0800
From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Rear Axle Ratio
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

If you are going to determine the rear axle ratio and you do it like most of us do you jack only one wheel up so you don't have to worry about them both turning the same distance. When you do this do not forget that the differential makes the wheel spin twice as fast when the other wheel is locked. Because of this you must count the number of driveshaft turns required to turn the unlocked wheel TWO revolutions. This will give you the correct ratio. (I knew that). :-)
Regards,
Roger Meier

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 23:53:12 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 427)
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

JIM HURD wrote:
>
> Steve,
> Let me throw in my $.02 worth here. According to "How to Rebuild Your
> BIG-BLOCK FORD" by Steve Christ, the 390 is an FE engine, while the 391
> designates the FT (FordTruck) engine.
> The 391 FT crank is forged steel and has a 1.76" diameter snout while
> the 390 (and I assume 406 and 427) FE cranks are *usually* cast and have
> a 1.38" diameter snout.
>
> The 390 FT cranks have a "T" in the third digit of the casting/forging
> number. Example; the D2TE-EA is listed as a 72-78 forged steel crank.
>
> The demnsions listed are slightly different for the FE and FT cranks:
>
> Stroke Mains Rods
>
> 390 FE 3.784" 2.7488" 2.4384"
> 391 FT 3.79 2.749 2.4381
>
> Jim in Central NY
> '79 F-150 (302!)
> '92 Topaz (3.0l)

Yeh this is true ; hoever, the 391 and the 390 are both FE's. An old
racers trick is to have the 391 crank machined down (the snout) and have
someone like Lanauti trim the counter weights down to a knife edge; now,
you have a crank for a 390/406 that'll standup to 9000 RPM. I have seen
this done and it works. The 391 is a heavy duty truck engine (that is
still made).

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 00:06:39 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 427)
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

mcat epix.net wrote:
>
> Steve ,
> Your block is probly one of the last runs of castings that ford
> made for production. I have one 427 that has the ribs that you see in Pat
> Ganahl`s book. This block is a late 427 with both oiling systems in it.
> This block is high nodular cast. My other 427 is the same except that it
> is a production 68. No ribs, and not high nodular cast. 391 truck blocks
> did not all have the ribs. Some 428`s did. Ford did strange things at the
> casting plant.I have seen the pipe plug on some 391`s and not on others.
> On e 428 that I know of does have the plug, and the vertical ribs. A
> 428scj that I have has no markings other than a casting date. I belive
> that this is a service block. I guess that anything could be possible.
> Garry
> --- On Sat, 3 May 1997 07:47:08 -0700 sdelanty sonoma.net wrote:
>

I understand what you are saying and I have a theory for this (not based
on known fact) I think the later blocks were beefed up for industrial
use. The steel crank of the 391 with no modifications under hi RPM's
(this is known fact) will tear the bottom webbig out of the block.

Afriend of mine had the 391 crank tuned to the apropriat stroke and had
the snout turned down and destroyed a couple 390 blocks befor we taked
to a machinist friend who told us what the problem was. he sent the
crank to a crank specialist ( I do not know who) and had the counter
weights trimed down severly. After that the thing was a screaming
monster.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 22:08:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: "James A. Doty"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Split Fire and 351M/W differences
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

> Skip 'em. Every automotive list I'm on has had a discussion about
>
> They look pretty different. The 351M is much bigger than the
> 351W. If you have a Mustang GT or the like to look at the 351W looks
> nearly the same as the 302 whereas the 351M looks more like a bigblock,
> 351C and 400 engines. Also, if I'm not mistaken the thermostat on the
> 351M is on the block while in the 351W it's on the intake. Lemme go to
> the garage and look....
>
> [3 minutes later]
>
> Yup. 95 Mustang (302) has the thermostat housing bolted to the
> intake and on the 79 Bronco (400, which is nearly identical to the 351M
> except for the crankshaft) has it on the block.

Thanks for going into your garage to look this up for me.

Everyone is of the same opinion on the plugs. Standard 99 cent
Platinums is likely what I'll use.

I'll check under the hood (hopefully tomorrow) to see what's under
there.

The engine looks a heck of a lot larger than my 302, there's not
much space under the hood at all compared to the 302 in my brown
van. I will look to see where the thermostat is though. Thanks
for the tip.

=======================================
James A. Doty
Assistant Web Master & NT Administrator
E-Z.Net, Inc. Internet Services
209 N.E. 120th. Ave., Suite B
Vancouver (360) 260-1122 ext. 10
KI7EL
jamesd e-z.net
Vancouver, WA

"I think so Brain but Snowball for Windows?"
Pinky

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 00:17:28 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 427)
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> >The following is an excerpt from Ford Performance by Pat Ganahl page 44
> >
> >Both the 352 and the 390 blocks can be bored to 428 size (4.13 inches);
>
> Does this mean then, all 390 blocks? Have You done this?
> If so, what block did You use?

Thats what he said. This is how I got my 406. I am using Vanolia
pistons; however, if you punch your 390 to 4.13 and use TRW P/N L2245F
you'll have a 406. These pistons will work with all your current 390
parts. The TRW pistons actually have about .020 extra deck clearance
but with 390 heads should put you at around 9:1 compression.


Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 00:27:51 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: mileage/electronic ignition how 2
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

sdelanty sonoma.net wrote:
>
> >How do you deal with a junkyard distributor, brain box, etc. that is wired with
> >>harnesses?
> It's taped. Unwrap it or carefully slice it. (only the tape now, not the
> wires...)
>
> I would like to put Motocraft breakerless in my '67 but most of the
> >>distributors etc. I see are wired together all nice and tidy in harnesses. My
> >>Maverick is this way. By the way, not once has this the ignition let me down.
>
> >With your engine I am not sure (352). He is what I know. Lets pretend you
> have a
> >302. First locate a truck w/ a 302 and eletronic ignition.
>
>
> >The reason I used a 302 for my example is that I do not know what dist. will
> >interchange with the 352 or if they made the 352 with electronic ignition. I
> >guess you would know.
>
> I may know this one, allow me to intervene. (I just recently played this game)
> Let's pretend He's got a FE352 and that the 302 distributor doesn't fit.
> (It doesn't) However, the 302 "black box" and connectors and cap/rotor stuff
> works fine with FE.
>
> The Ford Duraspark system, complete with magnetic pickup distributor was
> only offered 1 0r 2 Years on FE's. The FE's were available in trucks thru 1976.
> Mag pickup duraspark was available on FE's in 1976 and I think '75.
> First locate a 1975-'76 FE truck and rob it of it's distributor, it's
> black box and all related connectors and wires. Untape the wires and cut
> them to be as long as possible. An origional '76 distributor is likely to be
> rather sloppy, so prepare to exchange for a rebuild if necessary.
>
> Or, go to Your trusted parts house and ask for a rebuilt distributor for a
> '76 pickup with a FE360.
> I got a nice rebuilt magnetic pickup distributor with centrifugal and vacuum
> advance for $40, plus $30 core charge.
> The parts guy didn't care if the core was a magpickup from a 302 (which are
> plentiful), so I got a core at the wrecking yard (from an'80 econoline van)
> for $10 and retrieved my $30 core charge.
> Total cost for *rebuilt* magpickup/duraspark FE dist... $50
> My 390 is much smoother now and I don't miss the points a bit.. (-:
>
> You can get the duraspark "black box" from Your parts man or from the
> wrecking yard(cheaper), when You go get Your '76 FE dist, or 302 "core" dist.
> 302 mag pickup "black boxes" and all the connectors are plentiful at the
> wreckers and are the same as for FE. (and offered for many more years.)
>
> Other: The other nice thing to find is the "cap adaptor" and large diameter
> distributor cap and rotor that takes the 8mm wires. Many late 70's-80's
> duraspark 302's came with these "cap adaptors". I got a 302 adaptor, cap
> and rotor for $1 at the wreckers (out of a 1980 302 Econoline van), took it
> home and realised that it fits the FE distributor. (-:
>
> Now I run good 8mm wires on a "stock" big cap electronic FE distributor.
> Love it.
>
> One other mention is that the duraspark dist will directly drive an MSD6
> box... which I do.
> You don't need the duraspark black box, only the FE durastributor, the dist
> harness plug, and an MSD6A + coil.
> A very effective multiple spark ign system for relatively low $$.
>
> Even the stock duraspark sytem will be a good improvement over the points setup.
> I highly recommend it.
>
> The rest of this looks like fairly good advise...
>
> >Once you find one
> >remove the wrapping from the wires (its just tape). Next unplug the harness
> from
> >the dist., 'box', and the truck. Don't be scared by ALL THOSE WIRES, most of
> >them just run between the 'box' and dist.
> >
> >There are two sets of wires coming out of the 'box'. One set goes to the dist.
> >and the other goes to the truck firewall (you will also need the plug so just
> >cut the wires that run to the firewall on the truck side).
> >
> >Remove the dist., 'box', and all the wires.
> >
> >Now on your truck: First remove your dist. and swap the new on in. Find a nice
> >place to mount the 'box'. Hook up the harness between the dist. and box
> >(sometimes the wires will have to be made longer. I made mine longer, ran the
> >wires down the intake and to the 'box' that I had mounted on the fenderwell,
> >wrapped them with tape, and it looks factory). Now you are almost done since
> >that hooks all but two wires.
> >
> >Now for those last two wires (the only two you really have to mess with). You
> >will need a manual to check the colors. On color is hot on run and the
> other is
> >hot on start. The on that is hot on run you hook up to the wire that (stock)
> >goes to your dist. (you may need to replace this wire with one without a
> >resistor as the electronic ignition doesn't use a resistor). For the other
> wire
> >I ran a wire to the ignition and hooked it up to a "hot on start" wire.
>
> O.K....
> In '76 The red one goes to the hot side of the ign resistor.
> The white one is hot only during cranking. It retards the timing several
> degrees to make for easier starting. The white wire can be taped off and
> ignored unless You have trouble with excess ign advance during hot cranking...
>
> After '76 there may not be a ign resistor. The red goes to the coil + side,
> and the white wire can be used or ignored as above...
>
> I like zip ties (tyewraps) to bundle my wires and keep things neat. Spiral
> loom or heat shrink tubing can be used with nice results as well.
>
> FE's forever...
>
> Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)


All the wiring BS and rigging, Why? Mallory makes a magnetic pickup
distributor with vacuum advance for about 125.00 brand new with 5 year
warrantee and it requires nothing but a stock coil and a hot wire
(simple).

My personal choice is the unilite by Mallory same as magnetic pickup
only instead of magnetic signaler/pickup it uses a laser pickup comes in
a fully mechanical or vacuum advance for the same price with the same
warantee

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 01:04:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: William Sabers
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Split Fire
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

1) A slitfire it a autolite that simply allows for more surface area tro
allow ignition. It helps in some applicaitons....

2) a 351M is a big block 351 Windsor is a small block. they are
drastically different....






On Fri, 2 May 1997, James A. Doty wrote:

> Hi gang:
>
> I'm thinking of doing a complete tuneup within the next couple of weeks.
>
> I've heard some talk about the Split Fire spark plugs.
>
> I'm looking for opinions both good and bad. I realize Split Fire's
> cost more than standard plugs but I don't know anything else about them.
>
> The engine's a 351W (I think. I hear a lot of talk 'bout the 351M being
> used a lot in the '70's.)
>
> Is there an easy way to tell the 351W from the 351M? The van's a '78 E-150.
>
> Tnx
> ======================
> James A. Doty
> Assistant Web Master
> jamesd e-z.net
> E-Z Net, Inc.
> 209 NE 120th. Ave., Suite B
> Vancouver, WA 98684
> (360) 260-1122
> KI7EL
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 23:28:45 -0700
From: Anthony Ricotta
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Amp light in console
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'm new to the digest so I hope I get this right.

I recently bought (used from a dealership) a '93 F150 Supercab 4 x 2. So
for I love it. But having never owned a pickup before I am totally
unfamiliar with trucks historical pecadillos. Here's my problem- I
live in Las Vegas and we are coming into the warmer seasons and have
begun using the A/C during the days. During my drive home from work
though I have noticed the amp light in the console comes on. Sometimes
it goes out when I accelerate. But now more often than not it stays
on. I only notice this at night when the headlights are on, reguardless
of the A/C. Could this be a short through the lights? Or alternator
problems developing or just a bad cell in the battery? Has anyone else
had this problem. I still have a warranty through the dealership so If
it's something they should be fixing before I tear into it.

Thanks,
Tony

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 01:29:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris North
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Split Fire and 351M/W differences
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Jason K. Schechner wrote:
>On Fri, 2 May 1997, James A. Doty wrote:

>
>> Is there an easy way to tell the 351W from the 351M? The van's a '78 E-150.
>
> Odds are it's 351M, like my other '79 Bronco.
>

I could very well be wrong, but I don't think Ford put a 351M in any E-150,
250, or 350 Vans in 1978. Small block 302 and 351W. Large block, what, a
454?

Chris North | I always think I'm right although I know that |
Metallurgist | I must be wrong sometimes, I think. |

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 07:35:28 -0400
From: Larry Wiandt
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Slick 50
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 06:06 PM 5/2/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Hey folks'
>
>Since Ken kinda started this,
>
>I dont mean fer you all to lose what little respect I have in this bar, but
>my family has been using Slick since it was an MLM product. Before
>QS ruined the stuff.
>
>I've used it in every car I have ever owned (I'm 33) and I've never had
>an oil related failure. (Bent 4 pushrods in a Chrysler 440 ((There I said
>it the C word)) but thats another story).
>
>What I'm saying is that I don't know why or if it works but as for me I'll
>still buy/use it in all my cars/trucks, foreign/domestic until they pry the
>from
>my hands.
>
>Thank you for your time. Flames can be sent to BClinton Whitehouse.Gov
>
>M
>
>Putting soapbox away for another week. NOT
>Beertender Set 'em up!!

I have been using nothing but either Valvoline or Pennzoil in my cars as
long as I have been driving (I'm 42) and I have never had any internal
problems with my engines. Two of them I put close to 200,000 miles on them
and in both instances I sold the vehicle because I wanted something else
not because there were any major problems. Further more, My dad who is 84
has never used anything in his vehicles except standard motor oil. Except
for during the late 60's when Richard Petty was starting to push STP (if
Richard sells it it must be good, after all he is "The King"). After
probably a couple of years my dad and I concluded that STP did nothing to
help.

Anyway, my $.02 worth

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Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 09:51:18 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
To:
Subject: Truck bed info
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I just got my new issue of Custom Classic Trucks and there is a very
informative article on all phases of rebuilding your truck bed. It
includes many suppliers, but didn't mention one that I have found to be the
best. I have found Todd Murthum Reproductions to be very reasonable, while
maintaining top quality. His # is (810) 254 2835 in Michigan. Give this
article a good look before any bed work to save time and money. Ken: Keep....

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