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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 88

Today's Topics:

Re: Vacuum Advance/Retard [Daver ]
Re: Pinion angles?? [Daver ]
Re: Slick 50 [Daver ]
Re: Synthetic (Mobile 1) oil questio ["Tim and Jolee Hann"
Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage ["RANDY ZEILINGER (RZEILING)"
Re: rear axle ratio,last resort mrth [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 427) [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
Re:mileage/electronic ignition how 2 [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
Re: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 4 [JIM HURD ]
Re: rear axle ratio,last resort mrth [Don Grossman ]
RE: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 4 [mcat epix.net ]
Re: Bedliner [TaylorToot aol.com ]
Re: Split Fire and 351M/W difference ["Jason K. Schechner" ]
Re: Synthetic (Mobil 1) oil question ["Jason K. Schechner" ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 00:43:50 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance/Retard
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

John Strauss wrote:
>
> >Yeh John; but in this case the vacuum line was refered to we need to be
> >carefull when giving advise to be clear if you have a vacuum
> >advace/retard and you diconnect they your Knock sensore no longer
> >works. The Knock sensor is very important on the newer vehicals that
> >are designed for fuel ecconomy they run lean. If a lean running engine
> >gets bad gas and pings it can and will blow a head gasket; the knock
> >sensor detects the preignition of the bad fuel and retards the timeing
> >up to a point to protect the engine.
> >
> First of all, the original poster specifically said he removed the RETARD
> vacuum line. Both advance and retard are controlled via vacuum so you
> cannot assume just because it's a vacuum line that it means advance.
>
> Second, knock sensors were not used on 1970s Fords that employed the 2-vac
> line distributor. Knock sensors were not used by Ford until the mid-80s at
> which time the timing was computer controlled and there was NO vacuum
> advance mechanism on the distributor whatsoever. I believe the original
> truck in question was a '71 model.
>
> John

I am glad you told me this because I was debating how to wire the one
that is in the manifold of the 73 2.3 I have up since Im not using the
original wireing harnes. Hum guess I do not need to since it's a
figment of my imagination.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 00:47:48 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Pinion angles??
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Mike Young wrote:
>
> Can anyone explain what the optimum angles for pinion angle. I have a 53
> F100 that is lowered a bunch (couldn't tell you how much exactly) and a 94
> Ranger that is lowered 3". How do I check the angles and how do I correct
> them?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
> Mike Young
> 53 F100 volare fr. susp 223 w/3-1's and headers
> 94 Ranger 4.0L lowered 3" 17" must. GT wheels

The rule of thum I use is to set it parallel to the long axis of the
engine and trany ie.. calculate +/- the angle the crank is in in
relations to the frame and set the pinion angle to the same.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 01:00:16 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Slick 50
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Jim wrote:
>
> To make it clear, I don't think it was said it was bad for your car. It
> doesn't do as they clam! I will also clarify Split Fires will not harm your
> car, they don't do as they clam.
>

Agreed. Oil goes through the filter first so any suspended particals
are filtered out.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 01:51:20 -0700
From: "Tim and Jolee Hann"
To:
Subject: Re: Synthetic (Mobile 1) oil question...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BC5764.7F55B240"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_01BC5764.7F55B240
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charset="us-ascii"
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I have been using Mobile1 in my mustang (90LX 5.0) since it had 500 =
miles on it. I change it every 10k and I change the filter every 5k. It =
has not used any oil and I have 100k on the engine. I also have a 67 =
F250 with a 390 4v and I dont know the milage on it, but I run Mobile 1 =
in too and I have no oil leaks anywhere. After about 1k I noticed that =
the "O" girl starts better cold and idles smoother. Sorry to report it =
didnt help the gas mileage, it get 8 MPG up hill down hill loaded or =
not. But you figure for 4 dollars a quart it should do something, and =
for me I feel it did. Hope that helps. Amsoil is a high quality oil too.
----
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Date: Friday, May 02, 1997 9:30 PM
Subject: Synthetic (Mobile 1) oil question...

Now that the oil additive debate has been started... I've used
synthetic oil in the differential of my 67 F100 it seems to
work well - of course this is purely subjective. It was a move
that was highly recommended by alot of local builders, especially
since the diff fluid isn't changed often.

What I want is opinions on whether putting synthetic oil in
my 30 year old engine is going to bring any benefit. The engine
has 12,000 miles since the rebuild. I've heard that synthetic
oil can cause gasket leaks... true or false? The last thing
I want to do it lift a 670 lb V8 to replace a gasket - it was
too much of a bitch the last time I pulled it. I've always held
the belief that regular oil changes with a name brand oil which
meets current specs is the most important thing you can do to
extend engine life. I'm open to any benefits synth oil may
bring but I don't want to flush my money down the toilet.

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Truck Enthusiast List Web Page (unsubscribe
form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com



------=_NextPart_000_01BC5764.7F55B240
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable





http-equiv=3DContent-Type>




I have been using Mobile1 in my mustang (90LX 5.0) since it had 500 =
miles on=20
it. I change it every 10k and I change the filter every 5k. It has not =
used any=20
oil and I have 100k on the engine. I also have a 67 F250 with a 390 4v =
and I=20
dont know the milage on it, but I run Mobile 1 in too and I have no oil =
leaks=20
anywhere. After about 1k I noticed that the "O" girl starts =
better=20
cold and idles smoother. Sorry to report it didnt help the gas mileage, =
it get 8=20
MPG up hill down hill loaded or not. But you figure for 4 dollars a =
quart it=20
should do something, and for me I feel it did. Hope that helps. Amsoil =
is a high=20
quality oil too.
----
From: Ken Payne <kpayne mindspring.com>
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Date: Friday, May 02, 1997 9:30 PM
Subject: Synthetic (Mobile 1) oil question...

Now that the oil additive debate has been =
started...=20
I've used
synthetic oil in the differential of my 67 F100 it seems to
work well - of course this is purely subjective.  It was a move
that was highly recommended by alot of local builders, especially
since the diff fluid isn't changed often.

What I want is opinions on whether putting synthetic oil in
my 30 year old engine is going to bring any benefit.  The =
engine
has 12,000 miles since the rebuild.  I've heard that synthetic
oil can cause gasket leaks... true or false?  The last thing
I want to do it lift a 670 lb V8 to replace a gasket - it was
too much of a bitch the last time I pulled it.  I've always =
held
the belief that regular oil changes with a name brand oil which
meets current specs is the most important thing you can do to
extend engine life.  I'm open to any benefits synth oil may
bring but I don't want to flush my money down the toilet.

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Truck Enthusiast List Web Page (unsubscribe
form is there): 
href=3D"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks">http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/=
~fordtrucks


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via
href=3D"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/">http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:
href=3D"mailto:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com">fordtrucks-request lofcom.c=
om
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
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------=_NextPart_000_01BC5764.7F55B240--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 08:46:02 EDT
From: "RANDY ZEILINGER (RZEILING)"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

*** Resending note of 05/02/97 20:06

>Harry,
> Anything in your Physics book about Slick50?

This is covered in the Latin book...Caveat emptor. ;-)

Randy Z. (I'll change the oil when it stops raining)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 07:47:03 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: rear axle ratio,last resort mrthod
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>if you can't tell your ratio for sure by counting number of driveshaft rev to
>equal one (1) complete turn of your rear wheel,than remove the inspection
>plate on the differential,count the number of teeth on the big gear(ring
>gear) and then count the number of teeth on the pinion gear(smaller gear) and
>divide the larger gears teeth by the smaller gears teeth,and carry over the
>fraction(example) large gear has 37 teeth,small gear has 9 ,your ratio would
>be 4.11

Unless You've got a 9" rear end. Then the inspection plate is a tad
difficult to find.... (remove axles and pumpkin to view the goods.)

If You are careful, chalk mark and spin the driveshaft method is accurate
enough.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 07:47:08 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 427)
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"



>> I've heard from several people that I thought were "in the know" that
>> only *some* 390 blocks were capable of supporting a 4.130" bore.
>> Something about certain truck blocks and/or "replacement" blocks and/or...?

>Ok Steve I have done some reserch for you on this .
>
>The following is an excerpt from Ford Performance by Pat Ganahl page 44
>
>Both the 352 and the 390 blocks can be bored to 428 size (4.13 inches);

Does this mean then, all 390 blocks? Have You done this?
If so, what block did You use?

>'68 and '69 428 blocks reputedlyweremade with more metal between the
>bores and slightly beefier main webbing. All replacement 428 blocks
>sold by Ford after '74 were bored out 391 truck blocks, characterized by
>vertical ribs on the outside of the block plus a 3/8" pipe plug at the
>lower side of the block for the truck-engine external oil return line.

Hmmm, O.K., my block has some "ribs". There are 3 vertical ribs 0n the 5-7 side,
slightly rearward of the motor mount, and 2 ribs near the rear of the block.
There are also 5 ribs on the 1-4 side, near the front of the motor.
These are all about 5/16" wide x maybe 4-5" long, and only stand about 1/16"
above the block. They look more "decorative" than structural.
Are these the "ribs" Ganahl means?

Where's this pipe plug at? I don't see any 3/8" pipe plugs on my block.
There's two 1/4" plugs, one on each side, but I'm pretty sure these go into
the water jackets.(drains)

Also maybe You can explain about 390 vs 391. I've never understood the
differences between the two. I always thought that 391's were used in
-large- trucks, but am clueless about the differences...
I'm pretty sure I've got a 390, not 391... but..?


>ps If you Really want the 390/427 combo I'll give it to you but the 406
>is better for constant street use.
>

Well, actually the 406 is more appealing to me, both from a daily driver
reliability aspect, and from a financial aspect.
I would like to try the 406 at next rebuild.
However, I'd love to know how the 427 build is done. I *do* have aceess to a
well trusted machinist, and an open invitation to use his equipment myself.
It would be interesting to "practice" on a junk block and see how it goes.
(Oh God, not another project...)

I'd love any tech info about both builds, but 406 is more practical for me.

Thanx,


Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 07:47:14 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re:mileage/electronic ignition how 2
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>How do you deal with a junkyard distributor, brain box, etc. that is wired with
>>harnesses?
It's taped. Unwrap it or carefully slice it. (only the tape now, not the
wires...)

I would like to put Motocraft breakerless in my '67 but most of the
>>distributors etc. I see are wired together all nice and tidy in harnesses. My
>>Maverick is this way. By the way, not once has this the ignition let me down.

>With your engine I am not sure (352). He is what I know. Lets pretend you
have a
>302. First locate a truck w/ a 302 and eletronic ignition.


>The reason I used a 302 for my example is that I do not know what dist. will
>interchange with the 352 or if they made the 352 with electronic ignition. I
>guess you would know.

I may know this one, allow me to intervene. (I just recently played this game)
Let's pretend He's got a FE352 and that the 302 distributor doesn't fit.
(It doesn't) However, the 302 "black box" and connectors and cap/rotor stuff
works fine with FE.

The Ford Duraspark system, complete with magnetic pickup distributor was
only offered 1 0r 2 Years on FE's. The FE's were available in trucks thru 1976.
Mag pickup duraspark was available on FE's in 1976 and I think '75.
First locate a 1975-'76 FE truck and rob it of it's distributor, it's
black box and all related connectors and wires. Untape the wires and cut
them to be as long as possible. An origional '76 distributor is likely to be
rather sloppy, so prepare to exchange for a rebuild if necessary.

Or, go to Your trusted parts house and ask for a rebuilt distributor for a
'76 pickup with a FE360.
I got a nice rebuilt magnetic pickup distributor with centrifugal and vacuum
advance for $40, plus $30 core charge.
The parts guy didn't care if the core was a magpickup from a 302 (which are
plentiful), so I got a core at the wrecking yard (from an'80 econoline van)
for $10 and retrieved my $30 core charge.
Total cost for *rebuilt* magpickup/duraspark FE dist... $50
My 390 is much smoother now and I don't miss the points a bit.. (-:

You can get the duraspark "black box" from Your parts man or from the
wrecking yard(cheaper), when You go get Your '76 FE dist, or 302 "core" dist.
302 mag pickup "black boxes" and all the connectors are plentiful at the
wreckers and are the same as for FE. (and offered for many more years.)

Other: The other nice thing to find is the "cap adaptor" and large diameter
distributor cap and rotor that takes the 8mm wires. Many late 70's-80's
duraspark 302's came with these "cap adaptors". I got a 302 adaptor, cap
and rotor for $1 at the wreckers (out of a 1980 302 Econoline van), took it
home and realised that it fits the FE distributor. (-:

Now I run good 8mm wires on a "stock" big cap electronic FE distributor.
Love it.

One other mention is that the duraspark dist will directly drive an MSD6
box... which I do.
You don't need the duraspark black box, only the FE durastributor, the dist
harness plug, and an MSD6A + coil.
A very effective multiple spark ign system for relatively low $$.

Even the stock duraspark sytem will be a good improvement over the points setup.
I highly recommend it.

The rest of this looks like fairly good advise...

>Once you find one
>remove the wrapping from the wires (its just tape). Next unplug the harness
from
>the dist., 'box', and the truck. Don't be scared by ALL THOSE WIRES, most of
>them just run between the 'box' and dist.
>
>There are two sets of wires coming out of the 'box'. One set goes to the dist.
>and the other goes to the truck firewall (you will also need the plug so just
>cut the wires that run to the firewall on the truck side).
>
>Remove the dist., 'box', and all the wires.
>
>Now on your truck: First remove your dist. and swap the new on in. Find a nice
>place to mount the 'box'. Hook up the harness between the dist. and box
>(sometimes the wires will have to be made longer. I made mine longer, ran the
>wires down the intake and to the 'box' that I had mounted on the fenderwell,
>wrapped them with tape, and it looks factory). Now you are almost done since
>that hooks all but two wires.
>
>Now for those last two wires (the only two you really have to mess with). You
>will need a manual to check the colors. On color is hot on run and the
other is
>hot on start. The on that is hot on run you hook up to the wire that (stock)
>goes to your dist. (you may need to replace this wire with one without a
>resistor as the electronic ignition doesn't use a resistor). For the other
wire
>I ran a wire to the ignition and hooked it up to a "hot on start" wire.

O.K....
In '76 The red one goes to the hot side of the ign resistor.
The white one is hot only during cranking. It retards the timing several
degrees to make for easier starting. The white wire can be taped off and
ignored unless You have trouble with excess ign advance during hot cranking...

After '76 there may not be a ign resistor. The red goes to the coil + side,
and the white wire can be used or ignored as above...

I like zip ties (tyewraps) to bundle my wires and keep things neat. Spiral
loom or heat shrink tubing can be used with nice results as well.

FE's forever...

Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 13:37:12 -0500 (EST)
From: JIM HURD
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 427)
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Steve,
Let me throw in my $.02 worth here. According to "How to Rebuild Your
BIG-BLOCK FORD" by Steve Christ, the 390 is an FE engine, while the 391
designates the FT (FordTruck) engine.
The 391 FT crank is forged steel and has a 1.76" diameter snout while
the 390 (and I assume 406 and 427) FE cranks are *usually* cast and have
a 1.38" diameter snout.

The 390 FT cranks have a "T" in the third digit of the casting/forging
number. Example; the D2TE-EA is listed as a 72-78 forged steel crank.

The demnsions listed are slightly different for the FE and FT cranks:

Stroke Mains Rods

390 FE 3.784" 2.7488" 2.4384"
391 FT 3.79 2.749 2.4381

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)

P.S. THat third paragraph where I explain the "T" is a typo...it should
read "The 391 FT cranks........." (I only have a line editor :(

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 10:17:14 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: rear axle ratio,last resort mrthod
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

If you are taking the diff cover off the number of teeth on the ring ger
and the number of teeth on the pinion are stamped on the ring gear it's
self. The larger number is always the ring gear and the smaller number
is the pinion. Pop the cover off spin the ring gear arround until you
find the set of numbers XX XX then divide the smaller number into the
larger. On a 9" you will have to pull the carrier to get to the gears.
reading the numbers on the ring gear the most accurate way to tell the
ratio. A previous owner of the vehicle may have swapped in lower gears
and removed the gear tag or left the old one in place. There might be
some odd gear set in there like 3.89 or 3.73.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......

65 Ford F-150 4x4 (soon to be 72 Mustang)
63 Ford F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 97 13:05:22 PDT
From: mcat epix.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: 406/427 from 390 (was Re: SOHC 427)
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=us-ascii

Steve ,
Your block is probly one of the last runs of castings that ford
made for production. I have one 427 that has the ribs that you see in Pat
Ganahl`s book. This block is a late 427 with both oiling systems in it.
This block is high nodular cast. My other 427 is the same except that it
is a production 68. No ribs, and not high nodular cast. 391 truck blocks
did not all have the ribs. Some 428`s did. Ford did strange things at the
casting plant.I have seen the pipe plug on some 391`s and not on others.
On e 428 that I know of does have the plug, and the vertical ribs. A
428scj that I have has no markings other than a casting date. I belive
that this is a service block. I guess that anything could be possible.
Garry
--- On Sat, 3 May 1997 07:47:08 -0700 sdelanty sonoma.net wrote:

>
>
>>> I've heard from several people that I thought were "in the know" that
>>> only *some* 390 blocks were capable of supporting a 4.130" bore.
>>> Something about certain truck blocks and/or "replacement" blocks
and/or...?
>
>>Ok Steve I have done some reserch for you on this .
>>
>>The following is an excerpt from Ford Performance by Pat Ganahl page 44
>>
>>Both the 352 and the 390 blocks can be bored to 428 size (4.13 inches);
>
>Does this mean then, all 390 blocks? Have You done this?
> If so, what block did You use?
>
>>'68 and '69 428 blocks reputedlyweremade with more metal between the
>>bores and slightly beefier main webbing. All replacement 428 blocks
>>sold by Ford after '74 were bored out 391 truck blocks, characterized by
>>vertical ribs on the outside of the block plus a 3/8" pipe plug at the
>>lower side of the block for the truck-engine external oil return line.
>
>Hmmm, O.K., my block has some "ribs". There are 3 vertical ribs 0n the
5-7 side,
>slightly rearward of the motor mount, and 2 ribs near the rear of the
block.
>There are also 5 ribs on the 1-4 side, near the front of the motor.
> These are all about 5/16" wide x maybe 4-5" long, and only stand about
1/16"
>above the block. They look more "decorative" than structural.
> Are these the "ribs" Ganahl means?
>
>Where's this pipe plug at? I don't see any 3/8" pipe plugs on my block.
> There's two 1/4" plugs, one on each side, but I'm pretty sure these go
into
>the water jackets.(drains)
>
>Also maybe You can explain about 390 vs 391. I've never understood the
>differences between the two. I always thought that 391's were used in
>-large- trucks, but am clueless about the differences...
>I'm pretty sure I've got a 390, not 391... but..?
>
>
>>ps If you Really want the 390/427 combo I'll give it to you but the 406
>>is better for constant street use.
>>
>
>Well, actually the 406 is more appealing to me, both from a daily driver
>reliability aspect, and from a financial aspect.
> I would like to try the 406 at next rebuild.
>However, I'd love to know how the 427 build is done. I *do* have aceess
to a
>well trusted machinist, and an open invitation to use his equipment
myself.
> It would be interesting to "practice" on a junk block and see how it
goes.
>(Oh God, not another project...)
>
>I'd love any tech info about both builds, but 406 is more practical for
me.
>
>Thanx,
>
>
> Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

-----------------End of Original Message-----------------


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Name: Garry
E-mail: mcat epix.net
Date: 5/3/97 Time: 1:05:23 PM

427 Fe powered 56 F-100 Wild by design
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 16:26:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: TaylorToot aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Bedliner
Message-ID:

usually when bedliners are sold there are clips or if properly installed
3M double sided tape is used. I work for a truck accessory store if you have
any other questions E-mail me at TaylorToot aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 23:16:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jason K. Schechner"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Split Fire and 351M/W differences
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Fri, 2 May 1997, James A. Doty wrote:

> Hi gang:
>
> I'm thinking of doing a complete tuneup within the next couple of weeks.
>
> I've heard some talk about the Split Fire spark plugs.

Skip 'em. Every automotive list I'm on has had a discussion about
these plugs and every one has had the same outcome - they're no better
than standard plugs and only drain your wallet more. The spark is going
to take the easiest route accross the electrodes of the plug and doesn't
care what that electrode looks like. You may have a V-shaped electrode,
but it's going to pick one of those sides of the 'V' and keep using it
because they other will foul a bit immediately and have higher resistance.
Save your money.

> I'm looking for opinions both good and bad. I realize Split Fire's
> cost more than standard plugs but I don't know anything else about them.
>
> The engine's a 351W (I think. I hear a lot of talk 'bout the 351M being
> used a lot in the '70's.)

They look pretty different. The 351M is much bigger than the
351W. If you have a Mustang GT or the like to look at the 351W looks
nearly the same as the 302 whereas the 351M looks more like a bigblock,
351C and 400 engines. Also, if I'm not mistaken the thermostat on the
351M is on the block while in the 351W it's on the intake. Lemme go to
the garage and look....

[3 minutes later]

Yup. 95 Mustang (302) has the thermostat housing bolted to the
intake and on the 79 Bronco (400, which is nearly identical to the 351M
except for the crankshaft) has it on the block.

> Is there an easy way to tell the 351W from the 351M? The van's a '78 E-150.

Odds are it's 351M, like my other '79 Bronco.

> Tnx
> ======================
> James A. Doty

-Jason
79 Bronco 351M - C6 - 33"BFG AT's - "GRN GYNT"
79 Bronco 400 - C6 - 31" Wranglers
95 Mustang GT - hers - bone stock
95 Mustang GT - his - K&N, 3.55's, advanced timing

-----
Jason K. Schechner - Unix Sysadmin - Oracle Corp

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 23:25:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jason K. Schechner"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Synthetic (Mobil 1) oil question...
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Synthetic oil won't cause oil leaks, what it'll often do is reveal....


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