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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 85

Today's Topics:

Holley 4bbl for a 302 ["Jim" ]
Re: SOHC 427 [Daver ]
Re: '51 question [Dan Wentz ]
Re: '65 F-250 4BBL SWAP Help! [Daver ]
Re: SOHC 427 [Don Grossman ]
Temperature Gauge diagnosis [Kevin Lindstedt
Vacuum Advance/Retard [John Strauss
Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage [William Sabers
Pinion angles?? [Mike Young ]
Re: Pinion angles?? [John Macnamara ]
Re: Vacuum Advance/Retard -- year ["Harry Jennings"
Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage ["Harry Jennings"
Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage [William Sabers
Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage [gpierce web2000.net ]
Re: '51 question [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
Re: Pinion angles?? [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
RV Cam in a 460 ["Abajo, Ed" ]
Re: Pinion angles?? [John Macnamara ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 19:37:40 -0700
From: "Jim"
To:
Subject: Holley 4bbl for a 302
Message-ID:
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390 to a 427 is so boring! ha ha ha I just made that up! I've still got it!


I've been rebuilding a Holley spread bore single pump. I don't know the
CFM, it's list 8700 (3306) isn't in my Haynes Holley manual. I want to
adapt it to my truck. Did ford make an intake 302 manifold using a spread
bore? I can adapt it to a square bore with an adapter I've seen at the
parts store. What 73 Ford car or truck (F 100 didn't have a 4bbl option)
came with a 302 4bbl EGR manifold that would adapt well? was there multiple
intakes or just one? after market manifolds I've seen are not equip for EGR
and C4 (Like I could afford one if they did). What I'm looking for is
better fuel economy with increased low end power that a spread bore can
deliver, or something that will look damn impressive on my work bench!

Never say 427 and hard nipples in the same sentence. It gets me hony! Made
that one up to!
Later!





Jim Strigas jstrigas worldnet.att.net
"73" Ford F100 (Daily driver. Getting better every day.)
"83" Yamaha XJ900RK (Best Gift of my life! From my best friends! RSCL)
"86" Honda GoldWing GL1200 (OK, this part goes here, and this... this... I
think goes on the
truck.)
"77" Buick EstateWagon (Beast of Immense Magnitude!)

These are "The Good Old Days"!
Be Cool Daddy-O B-)>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 22:27:11 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: SOHC 427
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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> 406 or 428 from a 390 sounds very cool. I'd be tempted to start aquiring
> parts to build a 406 or bigger from my 390, but I'm a little
> nervous/skeptical...
>
> I've heard from several people that I thought were "in the know" that
> only *some* 390 blocks were capable of supporting a 4.130" bore.
> Something about certain truck blocks and/or "replacement" blocks and/or...?

Ok Steve I have done some reserch for you on this .

The following is an excerpt from Ford Performance by Pat Ganahl page 44

Both the 352 and the 390 blocks can be bored to 428 size (4.13 inches);
'68 and '69 428 blocks reputedlyweremade with more metal between the
bores and slightly beefier main webbing. All replacement 428 blocks
sold by Ford after '74 were bored out 391 truck blocks, characterized by
vertical ribs on the outside of the block plus a 3/8" pipe plug at the
lower side of the block for the truck-engine external oil return line.

>
> Are You saying that *all* 390 blocks can support 4.130" safely?
>
> If Yes, then what about a rebuild? Can You go 4.150" so You can get a
> rebuild out of it. That would be cool, but sounds like stretching it....
>
> Help me... I'm so confused.! You seem to have good practical experiance, but
> I'm a little nervous.
>
> If all 390's can go to 406 with just a bore/pistons, then why isn't this a
> more common build up? There's still millions of 390's on the road, I'd think
> there would be a metric shitload of 406 rebuilds out there. I've not seen them.
>
> I wanna believe, cause I would love a 406, but I don't wanna find my piston
> rings in the cooling system either...
>
> Just in case it is true, how's about some info about what pistons to use
> and who makes 'em.
> I don't know the stock pin (compression) height for a 390.
> Do You have it handy? It makes piston shopping easier...
>
> >I have
> >a combonation for a 390 to 427 convertion but it requires sleeves and a
> >mechenist you really trust.
>
> Wow, why did that little sentence make my nipples get hard?
>
> Sleeving a 390 to 427 (4.250") would be *very* cute. With a 428 crank gives
> 452cid....

It's a great thought but it is not Practical my 427 will go into
something for the weekend not a daily driver.

>
> PLEASE tell me more about this conversion. I've had industrial motors
> sleeved before.(dry and wet) Some motors come stock with wet sleeves. When
> the cylinders are worn, just replace 'em. (-:
>
> I assume this must be a wet sleeve setup, boring for a sleeve that large.
> How is it sealed, O-ringed top and bottom?
> Does it use a special head gasket?
> Where do the sleeves come from?
> Is a regular old 390 block adequate for the task?
> Have You actually done this, or been closely involved with the building of
> such a motor?
>
> Please, If You would send me more info about these things either privately
> or to the list I would be most interested..
>
> >The 427
> >(which I have) is bad to the bone, nothing to it to, but it is a rare
> >side oiler with CROSS BOLT MAINS and I am saving it for something
> >special.
>
> My '71 F100 is *VERY* special, can I have Your 427? (-:
>
> Happy motoring,
>
> Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)
I have not forgotten your post to me I'll answer it this weekend when I
have time to get into my toy.

Molater

Daver

ps If you Really want the 390/427 combo I'll give it to you but the 406
is better for constant street use.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 20:23:54 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '51 question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Greg,
I'm glad to hear that you're going to breathe life back into that 51. I've
got grandpa's 50, so I know what you mean about wanting to have sort of a
tribute. Now onto the questions--

> 1. Should I have to rebuild the engine before firing it up? If
>so how much of a rebuild?

Put some penetrating oil down the spark plug holes and let it sit for a day
or so, then turn it over by hand a few times before trying to fire it
up--reduces the chances of snapping a piston ring. I don't see any reason
to rebuild it before you've tried to run it--it may work just fine as is.
When you do rebuild it, it will be a pretty extensive rebuild--ohv is much
simpler, but you've got your valves in the block, so even a simple valve
job gets real nasty and time consuming.

> 2. I bought the book Rebuilding the Ford Flathead, but it was
>for the V8. Is there a better book for the flat-6?

Get a reproduction of the 48-52 shop manual or an old Motors manual--great
sources if you're going to keep the original engine.

> 3. Does gas really get stale?

Absolutely!

> 4. Where is the best place to drain off the gas tank?

Under the tank, where the outlet line is, there's probably a spigot (for
lack of a better word) like the one at the bottom of a radiator, just crack
it open and have something under there that's large enough to catch however
much gas you've got. Obviously you do this in a very well ventilated area.
If you don't have a spigot, you can disconnect the hard fuel line at the
tank.

> 5. I'm still undecided as to full restoration or custom any
>comments on pro's and con's of each? Yes, I would like to eventually
>show the truck...kind of a tribute to granddad you know.

I started out wanting to keep my truck original, but over time my criteria
changed to "what would grandpa approve of". I decided that under my
circumstances he would approve of a 351.

Pro's of keeping it stock: You know exactly what to do (just replicate how
it came out of the factory), and reproduction parts are really easy to find.

Con's of keeping it stock: Some consider stock boring--there's better
technology since 1951. Also, how stock do you want it? Will you allow
anything to change from stock? (a 12 volt electrical system is good to
have, and doesn't look any different from stock, but it isn't original).
You have to decide how far you'll allow yourself to go.

Pro's of modifying: You can do any damn thing you want! Make it a 4x4?
Sure, you can do that. Run a 460 disel? Sure, why not. 4 wheel
independent suspension? Not a problem.

Con's of modifying: Real easy to get carried away. Also, custom
fabrication is a bitch.

Whatever you do, develop a plan before you go out and invest in lots of
parts. I blew a ton of cash keeping my flathead running before I decided
to swap it out.

Hope that helps.

~Dan



1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 22:31:59 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '65 F-250 4BBL SWAP Help!
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tanya Wagger wrote:
>
> Hey all,
> I've got a 1965 F-250 with a 390 and a FOMOCO carb that looks like a
> Holley 750 double pumper . I think this carb may be a bit of overkill
> because of the was it loads up on decelleration. The question is are there
> any smaller 650 cfm type carbs Fomoco Ok, that bolt on without adaptor
> plates etc.
>
> Thanks
> Charlie Sr. 1965 F-250 390
> Charlie Jr. 1964 F-100 223

Your fuel pump is overrunnig your carb put a purilator fuel regulator on
it an pull the fuel pressure back. if this doesn't work rejet the
beast. Auto Zone carries HOLLY rebuilt stock carbs.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 19:46:18 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: SOHC 427
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a short sweet run down ( all of these posts are getting me all mixed
up) what is needed to take a 390 to a 406, and or a 428?

Thanks

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......

65 Ford F-150 4x4 (soon to be 72 Mustang)
63 Ford F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 08:00:12 -0500
From: Kevin Lindstedt
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Temperature Gauge diagnosis
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I've got a 1978 F150 w/460 and the coolant temperature gauge doesn't work.
How do I isolate which part is at fault (i.e. sender or gauge)? I remember
reading someplace that you ground the wire that attaches to the sender and
see if the gauge goes up...is that correct? Thanks for any and all help.

Kevin Lindstedt
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat Styleside 460/C6

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 08:38:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: Vacuum Advance/Retard
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Yeh John; but in this case the vacuum line was refered to we need to be
>carefull when giving advise to be clear if you have a vacuum
>advace/retard and you diconnect they your Knock sensore no longer
>works. The Knock sensor is very important on the newer vehicals that
>are designed for fuel ecconomy they run lean. If a lean running engine
>gets bad gas and pings it can and will blow a head gasket; the knock
>sensor detects the preignition of the bad fuel and retards the timeing
>up to a point to protect the engine.
>
First of all, the original poster specifically said he removed the RETARD
vacuum line. Both advance and retard are controlled via vacuum so you
cannot assume just because it's a vacuum line that it means advance.

Second, knock sensors were not used on 1970s Fords that employed the 2-vac
line distributor. Knock sensors were not used by Ford until the mid-80s at
which time the timing was computer controlled and there was NO vacuum
advance mechanism on the distributor whatsoever. I believe the original
truck in question was a '71 model.

John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 09:15:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: William Sabers
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

1. Make sure you have plenty of spark... ck resistance in plug wires, cap
& rotor for wear, change the coil... Plugs... in smaller motors I
have gained 3-4 mpg with "splitfires"
2. Make advance your timing a bit..
3. dual exhaust, turbos or glass paks
4. what is your vacccum like??? Usually 15-16
5. get rid of that smog-sh*t
6. catalytic converter... some fords had "removable elements" or plugged
converters can cause all kinds of problems.
7. 2"+ exhaust pipe
8. Do we have good compression on all cyl.

Just a few notes..
Sabes

On Thu, 1 May 1997, John Strauss wrote:

> >My question HOW DO I IMPROVE GAS MILEAGE...... besides not driving it.
> >I've preformed every setup procedure from every book around and still no
> >luck.
> >I'd like to keep the truck without buying a gas station for it.
> >
> >
> Gas mileage is a hard bugger to track down because there are so many
> variables. Just what is your MPG? What trans/rear end do you have? What
> size tires? What type fuel pump? Where do you live (i.e. what's the
> weather like)? What MPG did you get BEFORE you put this engine in? Is
> this a same engine replacement or was something else in there before?
> This'll at least get us started on diagnosis.
>
> John
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:30:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Young
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Pinion angles??
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Can anyone explain what the optimum angles for pinion angle. I have a 53
F100 that is lowered a bunch (couldn't tell you how much exactly) and a 94
Ranger that is lowered 3". How do I check the angles and how do I correct
them?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
Mike Young
53 F100 volare fr. susp 223 w/3-1's and headers
94 Ranger 4.0L lowered 3" 17" must. GT wheels

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 08:01:36 -0700
From: John Macnamara
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Pinion angles??
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Mike Young wrote:
>
> Can anyone explain what the optimum angles for pinion angle. I have a 53
> F100 that is lowered a bunch (couldn't tell you how much exactly) and a 94
> Ranger that is lowered 3". How do I check the angles and how do I correct
> them?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
> Mike Young
> 53 F100 volare fr. susp 223 w/3-1's and headers
> 94 Ranger 4.0L lowered 3" 17" must. GT wheels
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

According to my manual for a 78 F250 4X4, the typical transmission angle
is around 5.5 degrees from horizontal. The rear differential is
slightly offset from this at 5.25 degrees. These are the optimum angles
for a stock 78 F250. What yours might be would be found in the factory
manuals for your specific truck. I think if you wanted the correct
angles you would have to set the truck back to it's stock height.
However this is just my .02 and not a suggestion.

Thanks! John
78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67GT500

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 08:56:19 PDT
From: "Harry Jennings"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance/Retard -- year
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain

The original question was about a '76 302.

I responded by describing what I have done with my '71 F-100 which has a '77
351M (only one vacuum line and it is an advance).

Harry.

>From fordtrucks-request lofcom.com Fri May 2 06:42:53 1997
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>To: Ford Trucks List
>From: John Strauss
>Subject: Vacuum Advance/Retard
>Mime-Version: 1.0
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>X-Distributed-By: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>Reply-To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>
>>Yeh John; but in this case the vacuum line was refered to we need to be
>>carefull when giving advise to be clear if you have a vacuum
>>advace/retard and you diconnect they your Knock sensore no longer
>>works. The Knock sensor is very important on the newer vehicals that
>>are designed for fuel ecconomy they run lean. If a lean running engine
>>gets bad gas and pings it can and will blow a head gasket; the knock
>>sensor detects the preignition of the bad fuel and retards the timeing
>>up to a point to protect the engine.
>>
>First of all, the original poster specifically said he removed the RETARD
>vacuum line. Both advance and retard are controlled via vacuum so you
>cannot assume just because it's a vacuum line that it means advance.
>
>Second, knock sensors were not used on 1970s Fords that employed the 2-vac
>line distributor. Knock sensors were not used by Ford until the mid-80s at
>which time the timing was computer controlled and there was NO vacuum
>advance mechanism on the distributor whatsoever. I believe the original
>truck in question was a '71 model.
>
>John
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>



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Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 09:07:18 PDT
From: "Harry Jennings"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain

>From fordtrucks-request lofcom.com Fri May 2 07:18:26 1997
>Received: (from lof localhost) by t3.media3.net (8.8.5/8.6.9) id KAA16156; Fri,
2 May 1997 10:13:27 -0400 (EDT)
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>Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 09:15:34 -0500 (CDT)
>From: William Sabers
>To: Ford Trucks List
>Subject: Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage
>In-Reply-To:
>Message-ID:
>MIME-Version: 1.0
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>Reply-To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Also:
a)Headers
b)MDS multiple spark box
c)Make sure the suspention is in GREAT shape (I gained 3-4 mpg with a
- fornt end rebuild).
d)A balance pipe (before the mufflers) increases mpg and torque.
e)Good tires that are properly inflated (they do NOT have to ge -
skinny, I rub 235/70R15 on front and 295/60R15 on back).
f)Find a good carb shop & a tranny shop -- You would be surprised - at what
could be gained hear.
g)Add Slick50 or Rislone to your engine.
h)Many more I just cant think of right now!

Harry.


have gained 3-4 mpg with "splitfires"
>2. Make advance your timing a bit..
>3. dual exhaust, turbos or glass paks
>4. what is your vacccum like??? Usually 15-16
>5. get rid of that smog-sh*t
>6. catalytic converter... some fords had "removable elements" or plugged
> converters can cause all kinds of problems.
>7. 2"+ exhaust pipe
>8. Do we have good compression on all cyl.
>
>Just a few notes..
>Sabes
>
>On Thu, 1 May 1997, John Strauss wrote:
>
>> >My question HOW DO I IMPROVE GAS MILEAGE...... besides not driving it.
>> >I've preformed every setup procedure from every book around and still no
>> >luck.
>> >I'd like to keep the truck without buying a gas station for it.
>> >
>> >
>> Gas mileage is a hard bugger to track down because there are so many
>> variables. Just what is your MPG? What trans/rear end do you have? What
>> size tires? What type fuel pump? Where do you live (i.e. what's the
>> weather like)? What MPG did you get BEFORE you put this engine in? Is
>> this a same engine replacement or was something else in there before?
>> This'll at least get us started on diagnosis.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________________
>> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>>
>>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:41:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: William Sabers
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Another one...
1. try a crossover pipe. A good exhaust guy could help you on this
one... it can also increase low-end yield....
2. some engine kits also have universal belt kits to reduce the
amount of friction on the front of the motor....
3. Dual caption roller-rockers.
4. MSD ignition.. not to be redundant
5. Alignment, and front end parts in line. One time my front sway bar got
damaged ditch hopping. I lost 2-3 mpg until I fixed it
(2 months later).
6. lo-friction water pump
7. Fan clutch or electric fan
8. set of underpulleys for fan belts, power steering pump etc..... an old
street rodder's trick
9. a good set of radials

just some more notes...
Sabes

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 13:41:55 -0400
From: gpierce web2000.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1983 F100 gas mileage
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

John Strauss wrote:

> Gas mileage is a hard bugger to track down because there are so many
> variables. Just what is your MPG? What trans/rear end do you have? What
> size tires? What type fuel pump? Where do you live (i.e. what's the
> weather like)? What MPG did you get BEFORE you put this engine in? Is
> this a same engine replacement or was something else in there before?
> This'll at least get us started on diagnosis.
>
> John

Ok here go's
1). Mpg = 9 to 12
2). Trans = C-6 auto
3). Rear end Ratio = 3.54
4). Tires = 245/70x15 Steel belted Goodyears
5). Fuel pump = Standard engine driven
6). Ignition = Ford Duraspark
7). Orginal engine 300cid (4.9L) 6cyl = Replaced with Same new from box
from Ford
8). EMI System = Air pump supply Thermactor System Installed and working
properly all dump valves and control valves checked
9). Vacum on manafold = 16 inHg idle
10). EGR valve disconected.
11). Driving Climate = South Florida ( Dam HOT )
12). Cooling system = New along with Trans cooler and Oil Cooler
13). Exhust = single with cat convert. standard muffler.
14). Suspension = All new Front end parts execpt I-beam
15). Carb. = New Carter YF series single bbl.
16). Tune Up info = New at install, Timing Ford Spec. 10* btdc Curb
idle 550 rpm. A/C Off.
17). And if your thinking gas miles blows with or without A/C on.
Hopefully this will get you started on some idea I've run out.

Gary

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 15:57:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '51 question
Message-ID:

Gregg,
Before you do anything, subscribe to Classic Trucks Magazine. There is a lot
info every month that pertains to your truck.
If everything is complete on your truck, keep it orgional but remember that
is is an old truck and it is going to ride and handle like an old truck.
If like me, you have a truck that is missing a bunch of parts or somebody
else has tried to modify it, don't keep ot orgional. About the only orgional
part on my '56 is the main part of the cab, (I even replaced the roof because
of rust) the doors, hood and fenders.
Good luck.
Lance

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 16:07:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Pinion angles??
Message-ID:

If the angle of the output shaft is about 1/2 degree from the input to the
rear end, you should be O.K.. If you don't, the drive shaft will bind, cause
vibration and wear out the U-joints.
To change the angle, I believe you coule make some wedges that fit between
the spring purches on the rear axle and the springs. Only do this if you need
to make a coulce of degrees. If there is a big difference, you will need to
cut off the spring purches rotate the axle and weld new spring purches back
on.
Lance

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 13:36:00 -0700
From: "Abajo, Ed"
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RV Cam in a 460
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello all, I'm a long time lurker first time poster...

I have a 1973 F-250 with a 460 engine. When I purchased the truck in
September '94, I was told that the original owner had a RV cam
installed and the stock differential replaced with a 4.11 differential
(the VIN tag says it came from the factory with something else). Any
ideas on how I can confirm this configuration without major disassembly?
I looked for a tag on the differential but didn't see anything. I have
no idea how to check for a different cam. Since I am planning to change
the differential fluid soon and it appears that I need to remove the
rear cover (there is no drain plug on it), can I determine the ratio at
that time? If so, how (and do I need any special tools?) My main use
for this truck is to pull a heavy boat trailer (+8000 lb.) so I think I
really need the 4.11 gear ratio.

Also, does a RV cam imply any alterations to the tune-up specs? Anything
else I should know about it (like how it help in towing?) Lastly, the
truck has 9.50x16.5 LT tires --- when it comes time to replace them,
should I get the same or look at a different size? What and why?
....


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