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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 83

Today's Topics:

Re: Getting better mileage/electroni ["Harry Jennings"
Re: Vacuum Advance (new reply) [Daver ]
Re: Motor Oil [Daver ]
Re: Motor Oil [Daver ]
[Fwd: Delivery problems!] [Daver ]

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Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 18:31:37 PDT
From: "Harry Jennings"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Getting better mileage/electronic ignition how 2
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How do you deal with a junkyard distributor, brain box, etc. that is wired with
>harnesses? I would like to put Motocraft breakerless in my '67 but most of the
>distributors etc. I see are wired together all nice and tidy in harnesses. My
>Maverick is this way. By the way, not once has this the ignition let me down.
>
>DC Beatty
>1967 F-100 352
>1974 Maverick 302

With your engine I am not sure (352). He is what I know. Lets pretend you have a
302. First locate a truck w/ a 302 and eletronic ignition. Once you find one
remove the wrapping from the wires (its just tape). Next unplug the harness from
the dist., 'box', and the truck. Don't be scared by ALL THOSE WIRES, most of
them just run between the 'box' and dist.

There are two sets of wires coming out of the 'box'. One set goes to the dist.
and the other goes to the truck firewall (you will also need the plug so just
cut the wires that run to the firewall on the truck side).

Remove the dist., 'box', and all the wires.

Now on your truck: First remove your dist. and swap the new on in. Find a nice
place to mount the 'box'. Hook up the harness between the dist. and box
(sometimes the wires will have to be made longer. I made mine longer, ran the
wires down the intake and to the 'box' that I had mounted on the fenderwell,
wrapped them with tape, and it looks factory). Now you are almost done since
that hooks all but two wires.

Now for those last two wires (the only two you really have to mess with). You
will need a manual to check the colors. On color is hot on run and the other is
hot on start. The on that is hot on run you hook up to the wire that (stock)
goes to your dist. (you may need to replace this wire with one without a
resistor as the electronic ignition doesn't use a resistor). For the other wire
I ran a wire to the ignition and hooked it up to a "hot on start" wire.

You can use your stock dist.

Simple!?

It really is simple so if I didn't explain anything very well just ask me.

The reason I used a 302 for my example is that I do not know what dist. will
interchange with the 352 or if they made the 352 with electronic ignition. I
guess you would know.

I did have trouble with my point ignition. I was always burning points (high
rpm's from my lead foot).

Harry.







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Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 21:07:05 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance (new reply)
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John Strauss wrote:
>
> >First of all lets talk about that vacume line to the dist. That is an
> >ADVANCE line not a retard line. Hook it back up! Most requre an inline
> >delay. If your does (check a manual such as Chiltons) make sure you have
> the >right color towards the dist. (again, check the manual).
> >
> Au contrair! 1970s Ford distributors commonly had TWO vacuum lines to the
> advance mechanism - one was advance and one was retard. The retard line
> was supposed to be for decelleration only but it was an emissions-related
> add-on.
>
> John

Yeh John; but in this case the vacuum line was refered to we need to be
carefull when giving advise to be clear if you have a vacuum
advace/retard and you diconnect they your Knock sensore no longer
works. The Knock sensor is very important on the newer vehicals that
are designed for fuel ecconomy they run lean. If a lean running engine
gets bad gas and pings it can and will blow a head gasket; the knock
sensor detects the preignition of the bad fuel and retards the timeing
up to a point to protect the engine.

Molater

Daver

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Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 21:13:51 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Motor Oil
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Keith Srb wrote:
>
> O.K. for those of us who haven't found the right book to read yet, what on
> earth are you talking about?? Low Ash, No Parifin Oil?? Please explain.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daver
> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 1997 8:39 PM
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: Motor Oil
>
> I find that a low ash no parifin 20w50 works best for me medium
> detergent.

Let me root up the literature I used when I was selecting oils and I'll
try to post it.

More to come.

>
> Molater
>
> Daver
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
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Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 21:16:43 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Motor Oil
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William Sabers wrote:
>
> On Thu, 1 May 1997, Keith Srb wrote:
>
> 20-50???? I know that you would not run that in the winter... at least a
> winter in South Dakota. I have seen straight 20w oil resemble brown
> jello.
> 5-30 in the winter, 10-30 or 20-50 in the summer, depending on
> the vehicle...
>
> Medium Detergent is fine, however if I buy a used car I will run high
> detergent oil &/or a quart of Transmission fluid to get rid of some of the
> residue left from previous "lo-maintaince owners"
> Wsabers
>
> > I find that a low ash no parifin 20w50 works best for me medium
> > detergent.

I do run 20 50 year round; however the coldest we see is low teens and
an occational single digit day.

> >
> > Molater
> >
> > Daver

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Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 21:19:52 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: [Fwd: Delivery problems!]
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Subject: Re: SOHC 427
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Mathew Baker wrote:
>
> Daver wrote:
> >
> >>
> > Call Ford Man's Mustang in Houston TX he doesn't have a cammer but he
> > can set you up with a 427 side oiler.
> >
> > Molater
> >
> > Daver
>
> Which engines have cross-bolt mains, and what would be involved in
> building a 410 w/ a 390 block and a 428 crank. 428 crank and rods w/
> 390 pistons????? or do you need special 410 pistons?
>
> Mat Baker
> '64 F-250 4X4 292 Thunderbird y-block

Findig pistons is the hard part for a 410. If you are looking for a
puller build a 428 the 390 block will punch out big enough and the rods,
pistons and crank are availible through several sorces. If you want raw
excelleration build a 390, 406 or (if you can afford it) a 427. I have
a combonation for a 390 to 427 convertion but it requires sleeves and a
mechenist you really trust. The 406 (which I have) will scare you my
428 didn't compare as far as out of the hole excelleration. The 427
(which I have) is bad to the bone, nothing to it to, but it is a rare
side oiler with CROSS BOLT MAINS and I am saving it for something
special.

Molater

Daver


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