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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 62

Today's Topics:

Milestone [Ken Payne ]
Re: Inline 6 vs. V8 [Steve & Rockette
Re: An end to front end blues! [Steve & Rockette
Re: Holley Carb [Daver ]
Re: FE Blocks [Daver ]
Re: Milestone ["Jason C Wodack"
Re: FE blocks [Daver ]
Gotta Fix my Ranger [Eddie Torres
Re: FE blocks [Daver ]
Re: Holley Carb [Daver ]
Re: Inline 6 vs. V8 [Daver ]
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [GEDAVE aol.com ]
Re: Electronic or Transmission Probl [GEDAVE aol.com ]
Re: Inline 6 vs. V8 [Gerald and Lisa Hoel
new engine break in [Gerald and Lisa Hoel
new engine break in [ksbdj00 tamuk.edu (Johnson Bradford]
Re: new engine break in [FOMOCONUT aol.com ]
56 F100 w/292Y8 ["Erik J. O'Daniel"
Re: Tires Choice for '80 F150 [bigric mail.utexas.edu (Richard Che]
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [Larry Wiandt ]
desubscription [bill rowlett
Auto Overdrive [John Strauss

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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 22:44:54 -0400
From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Milestone
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Tonight we reached a major milestone. First, some history:

This list started in late December/early January as a bunch of us who sent email to each other using standard email and a little use of the "cc" email field. All of us (about 12 or so) met via the usenet newsgroups. One day I gathered my names, sent all of them email and asked about a Ford truck list. No one knew of one so I started one, I believed that if we could get 100 hundred members we would be huge. After 3 weeks of operation it became obvious (we had 25 members and real buggy software) that we would need a list server to host us. I found LOF Communications, a lost cost high service company to host us - show them your appreciation and visit their site (www.lofcom.com). This is the only company I have no problems with endorsing in such a way on the list. Without their help none of this would be possible. (Thanks Charlie)

We went on line with LOF in early February. Two weeks later it became obvious that we would need a digest version of the list as the traffic was high and steady. Three weeks after moving to LOF, we had 100 users - this was due in part to Charlie (with LOF) sending me an email which listed sites and ways to promote the list/web site.

Now, our milestone..... 500 users!!!!! Thanks everyone for being a part of this! At this rate of growth we may be forced sooner or later to split the list into pre-1980 and post 1980 trucks - alot of users are having problems with the volume of email sent some days. Once again, this would be up to the group as a whole.

Its been fun (most of the time!),
-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 19:49:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve & Rockette To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Inline 6 vs. V8
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 10:50 AM 23/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I wonder if somebody in Ford Truck land who knows engines much better
>than I, could settle a dispute I'm having with the "local know-it-all"

I hate to tell you this...

>I have been informed that inline 6's are actually extremely good racing
>motors and can actually be faster than a V-8. It was to my uneducated
>understanding that an inline 6 is more geared towards power/torque than
>speed...

Having built I6's for high performance applications, He is correct, if he is claiming that a I6 will out perform a V8 in certian applications.
Big inline sixes (240-300cid range) Ford or C-word motors can produce more torque at lower RPM than similarily sized and some larger V8's. Plus the rod to stroke ratio is better in an I6 than most small blocks, which equals better torque/power/horsepower at a given RPM. I have built C-word 292ci I6's that have out performed 350's, and 300ci Ford's that have outperformed 351w's.
It isn't to terribly difficult to do this, especially with 300ci's. The right combo of parts, a little exhaust port work, the right cam for the RPM range and it will beat most smallblocks, out of the hohe,and down the road...
Never underestimate the power of a I6, it will come back to haunt you....

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox

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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 19:49:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve & Rockette To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: An end to front end blues!
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I know the feeling, when I bought My 57 F100 home it had no engine, no rear end, no promise. It did have a PERFECT cab & box however.
The first order of business was to put a rear end under it, found a 59 9" 3.70:1 out of a F100, done deal. Fast forward 3 months, a friend wrecks his 68 Mustang, 289, 3 speed, I built the motor, I KNOW it's a good one. $600 changes hands, It's a Runner. Out on the road, it's wandering around like an autistic child, something in the frontend I explain to myself, So I investigate, really bad king pins, really bad drag link, really bad steering box, everything needs fixing ( according to the wife[she who must be obeyed] my head is the first part that should be fixed...). So I get all the front end repaired and start driving the truck, problem is, it's still wandering around.
The tires are 225/75B15's, Not radials, biasply's, Think there's a problem here, replace the tires with 215/65R15's Front and 255/60R15's Rear, MUCH BETTER. The truck tracks perfectly, done deal.
I sent a picture to Ken Of a 57 F100 that is basicly identical to mine, Although I took the front &rear bumpers off and filled the cutouts, its a seriously cool looking & sounding ride, it's got a 25" long 3" copper pipe with 2X3" reducers, no mufflers, 3" megs tips, even my cats recognize it coming down the road to the house....


Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox

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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 21:57:51 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Holley Carb
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

LanceWaldn aol.com wrote:
>
> Whoever told you to put an 850 Holley carburator on your truck is nuts! The
> 351M is a torque motor at low RPM's and an 850 is for an engine that is a lot
> bigger than yours or runs at a lot higher RPM.
> You can find some shops that can fix the leaky shaft but that might cost a
> lot of time and money.
> I like the Edelbrock carburators better. they cost a little more but are a
> lot more trouble free. Look for one about 750 CFM.
>
> Lance
RPM's are not the deciding factor for choosing a carb. You are correct 850 CFM is to much. I run a 960 CFM holly on my FE (this is a tork monster 490+ at 3700 RPM) comes in at around 1400 RPM peak HP 5500 max RPM 6500 if you have the nearves.

Molater

Daver

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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 22:06:23 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE Blocks
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Drew Beatty wrote:
>
> Hey Keith, I have found this book to be a credible source of info:
> "Ford Performance" by Pat Ganahl. Published by S-A design books. It's so
> good I had a guy steal a copy of it from me a few years back. You will probably
> have to order it. If you can't find it let me know and I can give you the email
> of a bookstore that probably can.
>
> About FE's, Ford is weird and they have different engine "families" of which the
> FE is one. It is a big block, and there are other big blocks that aren't FE's.
> Get it? Weird.
> FE blocks came in the following displacements: 332, 352, 360, 361, 390, 391, 406
> (one bad motor!), 410, 427 (the King of bad motors), and 428 (King's cousin).

You are correct the book is a great source of information. The best fe's to have are the 390,406 and the 427. The 427 crank is nothing more than a forged steel 390 crank ( this allows higher RPM's). You can build a 406 easily if you have a 390 simply have it bored to 4.13 it'll survive and change pistons( 428 pistons do not work the pin location is off).

Molater

Daver

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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 22:58:53 +0000
From: "Jason C Wodack" To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Milestone
Message-Id: Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> Now, our milestone..... 500 users!!!!! Thanks everyone for being
> a part of this! At this rate of growth we may be forced sooner or later
> to split the list into pre-1980 and post 1980 trucks - alot of users
> are having problems with the volume of email sent some days. Once
> again, this would be up to the group as a whole.
>
> Its been fun (most of the time!),
> -Ken Payne
> 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
> List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
> Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe
> form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks
>
>
WOOOOHOOO congrats

Jason Wodack
84 BroncoII

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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 23:10:03 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

sdelanty sonoma.net wrote:
Daver writes:
>
> >If it has a Smog pump it is probably no older than 72 (I believe that is
> >when the state of California began requiring them).
>
> Naw, we wish. California had smog pumps as early as '65, and many (most)
> vehicles by 67-68. Been there, drove it, wrenched it, owned it, etc.

Ok I'll buy that I wasn't really shure.

>
> >I personally threw
> >the points setup away the Mallory Unilite is far supperior, more acurate
> >and not as worn.
>
> Yeah, I agree, most any setup that does away with the points is a good thing.
> I went with the stock '76 FE duraspark dist(
> Works very nicely, cheaply, I and don't miss changing points/condensor The Mallory comes with vacuum advance; however, the Ford Ignition is cheaper and for stock use adiquit.

a
> bit... (-:
>
> >If he goes to the Unilite tell him to get the fully
> >mechanical distributor it's one less place for vacuum that doesn't
> >work.
>
> The *correct* mechanical (centrifugal) advance curve is very important, but
> some vacuum advance on top of it buys extra low/ part throttle performance
> and fuel economy. When vacuum is high and cylinder pressure is low, more
> advance is good.
> Straight mechanical (centrifugal) doesn't give You any.

Depends on how it is setup. It will give quiker reaction. The Vacuum will give a little better economy but I have seen the pot freeze up to many times for my taste and when the freeze you then have no advance.

> It all depends so much on cam/compression/etc, but generally on street
> engines, some vacuum advance is Your friend... On my FE390 I wouldn't run
> without it.
>
> Use the hot plug (if the engine is the stock veriety)
>
> I run the stock heat range (autolite 35's) heat range on my 390. A hotter
> plug only invites pinging when hot. If You run higher comp ratio than stock

There are not but 2 or 3 plugs offered for this engine the one I refer to is the 35's. the lower the compression the hoter the plugs. when running the hot plug you want your fuel th atomize as much as possible thig gives better fuel economy keeping in mind that the timing needs to be at 6 to 8 BTDC or you are correct it'll clatter bad.

> You may need a cooler plug. Remember that fuel ain't what it was when these
> motors where built..
> Insulator color is very good on mine with stock heat range autolite 35/45's.
> My uncles '62 352 has higher comp than my 390 and doesn't like hotter plugs.
> A hotter plug's not likely to help unless it's an oil spewer and has trouble

You and I deffer here.

> keeping them clean.
>
> >and run 6
> >to 8 BTDC.
>
> Yep, the stock setting works real good with stock cam. With my cam
> (218/228 .050") I get best results with 11-12 BTDC.

Stock durations run about this. Ranging from best I recall 260 to 310+/-

>
> >Put a vacuum gauge on it on the manifold tree (probably
> >located on the rear passenger side) then carfully screw the (driver
> >first) mixture screw in until the engine begins to miss then screw it
> >out (watching the vacuum gauge) until the needal is at it's smothest
> >point then repeat this on the other side. When the mixture is right the
> >vacuum should read a very steady 13 to 14 inches; if not, adjust the
> >rest out by slowly advancing the distributor. it is less important to
> >get 13 to 14 inches than it is the see the needle rock solid.
>
> 13-14" is pretty low. It would bug me unless the cam was pretty silly or the

I was doing this from memory and best I remember any where from 12 to 20 depending on Age of engine (# of miles on it) Type of lifters, duration and valve overlap ect........ The last time I ran my 427 on a stock cam (just befor I stored it, it had about 11 at best and according to the book that was good. My 406 (390 conversion) runs about 8 and drops out of site when you touch the ecelerator.

> motor pretty worn out.
> I get 18-19" (warmed up) at 800rpm, with a 270/290
> (218/228 .050")[.495"lift] cam.

(mine) [242/246 .050 98 deg LS 581 lift solid] The engine survives about 90,000 miles between freshen ups I love power.

8 MPG on a good day.

> I would expect at least that from the stock cam, unless something's up.
> The 352 in my great-uncle's '62 merc still pulls 18+" idle and it's
> got 165,000 miles...

The less lobe seperation the more vacuum.

>
> > Also note
> >if you exceed 10 advance (BTDC) you must increase the richness of the
> >mixture put the light on it(important) do not adjust by ear you are not
> >use to this particular engine.
>
> And watch those plug colors.
>
> Happy motoring,
>
> Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

You and I need to compare notes you are pretty decent on the stock stuff. Any time you ask two mechanics a question you get answers based on personal preferences and what each have seen and found to work best for tham. Diversity that is what I like about this list. And the beuty of it is it all works.....

---

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