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Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 60

Today's Topics:

Re: FE blocks [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
Re: FE blocks [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
NEWBIE with a few questions. [Mark Goods
An end to front end blues! ["Jim" ]
Delete my e-mail delivery ["Blash Edward" ]
360FE Engine Code [John Strauss
FE block identification [John Strauss
'61 F100 Production Figures [John Strauss
Flareside? Styleside? [John Strauss
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [silent.bob juno.com ]
Holley Carb [Gerald and Lisa Hoel
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [Larry Wiandt ]
Re: FE blocks -Reply [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
Inline 6 vs. V8 [Gerald and Lisa Hoel
1979 F150 For Sale [John Strauss
Re: Muffler's [LA46544 aol.com ]
Re: driveshaft slack [LA46544 aol.com ]
Re: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions [LA46544 aol.com ]
Re: Tires Choice for '80 F150 [LA46544 aol.com ]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 23:31:20 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>
>Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 20:31:47 -0500
>From: Daver
>To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>Subject: Re: FE blocks
>Message-ID:
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>

Daver writes:

>If it has a Smog pump it is probably no older than 72 (I believe that is
>when the state of California began requiring them).

Naw, we wish. California had smog pumps as early as '65, and many (most) vehicles by 67-68. Been there, drove it, wrenched it, owned it, etc.

>I personally threw
>the points setup away the Mallory Unilite is far supperior, more acurate
>and not as worn.

Yeah, I agree, most any setup that does away with the points is a good thing.
I went with the stock '76 FE duraspark dist(
Works very nicely, cheaply, I and don't miss changing points/condensor a bit... (-:

>If he goes to the Unilite tell him to get the fully
>mechanical distributor it's one less place for vacuum that doesn't
>work.

The *correct* mechanical (centrifugal) advance curve is very important, but some vacuum advance on top of it buys extra low/part throttle performance and fuel economy. When vacuum is high and cylinder pressure is low, more advance is good.
Straight mechanical (centrifugal) doesn't give You any.
It all depends so much on cam/compression/etc, but generally on street engines, some vacuum advance is Your friend... On my FE390 I wouldn't run without it.


Use the hot plug (if the engine is the stock veriety)

I run the stock heat range (autolite 35's) heat range on my 390. A hotter plug only invites pinging when hot. If You run higher comp ratio than stock You may need a cooler plug. Remember that fuel ain't what it was when these motors where built..
Insulator color is very good on mine with stock heat range autolite 35/45's.
My uncles '62 352 has higher comp than my 390 and doesn't like hotter plugs.
A hotter plug's not likely to help unless it's an oil spewer and has trouble keeping them clean.

>and run 6
>to 8 BTDC.

Yep, the stock setting works real good with stock cam. With my cam (218/228 .050") I get best results with 11-12 BTDC.

>Put a vacuum gauge on it on the manifold tree (probably
>located on the rear passenger side) then carfully screw the (driver
>first) mixture screw in until the engine begins to miss then screw it
>out (watching the vacuum gauge) until the needal is at it's smothest
>point then repeat this on the other side. When the mixture is right the
>vacuum should read a very steady 13 to 14 inches; if not, adjust the
>rest out by slowly advancing the distributor. it is less important to
>get 13 to 14 inches than it is the see the needle rock solid.

13-14" is pretty low. It would bug me unless the cam was pretty silly or the motor pretty worn out.
I get 18-19" (warmed up) at 800rpm, with a 270/290 (218/228 .050")[.495"lift] cam.
I would expect at least that from the stock cam, unless something's up.
The 352 in my great-uncle's '62 merc still pulls 18+" idle and it's got 165,000 miles...


> Also note
>if you exceed 10 advance (BTDC) you must increase the richness of the
>mixture put the light on it(important) do not adjust by ear you are not
>use to this particular engine.

And watch those plug colors.

Happy motoring,


Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 23:31:25 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>
>> I've heard that *some* 390 truck engines and/or replacement blocks have
>> enough meat to open up to 428 bore. (anyone got a 428 crank laying around? :-)
>> Is this true? Anyone know how to I.D. these blocks?
>>
>
>According to my books the 352 and 390 FE's can go 4.13 bore.

Hmm, my understanding is that only *some* 390 blocks can go to 4.130" That's .080" over the 390's 4.050" and 0.130" over the 352 stock bore!
0.130" is a metric shitload of overbore.!
FE's are beefy, but +.130" seems unlikely.
Is 4.130" really possible for all these blocks?

>The 428
>crank can be found but why? bore the thing to 4.13 and find a 427 crank
>(this combo builds a 406).
>The 427 crank is basicly identical to the
>390 except they are either nodular iron or forged steel and can be
>modified to rev in excess of 8000 RPM. Big bore short stroke = fast.

Yeah, but big bore, long stroke = faster.


If I can really go 4.130" on my block, I might use my 390 crank for 406cid.
If I'm gonna bore to 4.130" *and* get a different crank I'd get the 428 crank and end up with 428 instead of 406...
I'll bet that 428 cranks are easier to find than genuine 427 cranks.

Besides, I'm not looking for rpm. That kind of FE rpm is big time expensive.
My heads/intake/carb/exhaust aren't going to support 7-8000 rpm.
My stock 390 rods aren't going to like it. My valve train is gonna freak...
I'd have to spend thousands to make it all work at 7-8K.

My T-18 tranny gearing is totally inappropriate and rear end gearing as well. I don't want to spin it up to get my giggles. 8K rpm motors are fun, but not appropriate for
my work/play/daily driver truck.

I want to step on the gas at 1200 rpm in top gear (30mph), and have it just walk away from everyone else all the way up to 5000 rpm. By then I'm going 120+mph and that'll do me.
Horsepower is good, but torque rules the road. I want lotsa torque. I want it across the whole rpm range. I don't wanna downshift and spin it up to pass a motorhome that's going 45 mph up a hill. I just want to push the pedal and let that big torque pull me. I like what a long stroke does for the area under the curve.
The 390 serves me quite well, but more CID is always appealing.

So... does anyone know for sure about max *reliable* 390 overbore?
Or how to identify the different blocks?

Happy motoring,


Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 07:59:07 -0400
From: Mark Goods To: "'FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com'" Subject: NEWBIE with a few questions.
Message-ID:

I am new to the group so if I do something wrong, please forgive me. I own a 1968 F100 Ranger long bed. The guy I bought it from put a 351C 4V in it from a 1973 Grand Torino( I'm assuming that what he said is ture). He also put in a different steering column, from where I do not know. There are many problems with the truck that need to be addressed. I hope someone out there will help me with the questions I have. I will list the problems, then the questions:

1. The engine is leaking oil from the bottom of the engine. (oil pan and/or rear seal probably)

2. The wiring under the dash has melted. It even smoked when I first got it. I disconnected some wires and it stoped. Now the rear part of the trucks lights(turn signal, brake lights, emergency lights) don't function properly.

3. It gets very poor gas milage. It has a Holley carb, no choke.

4. The exhust pipes from the manifold back have rusted completely. There are holes throughout.

5. There are fumes in the cab that I can not identify.

Questions:

1. Is this truck worth saving. The body has a few spots that need a little work but over all the body looks good.

2. Assuming it is worth saving, should I keep the engine that is in there and fix the leaks or should I go with another engine?

3. What do I do about the wiring problem? I would like to fix everything myself if I can. Do the make a wiring kit for this model truck?

4. What can be done about the gas mileage?

5. What was the original engine in this truck?

I really would like to keep the truck and restore it, maybe not a complete restore but, to the point where it looks and runs good. I do drive it once in awhile but, it leaks to bad and the gas mileage is so bad that I can't drive it everyday, which is what I want to do.

I apologize for the long message. Any help or ideas you all can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


Mark Goods

***************************************************************** Mark Goods goods vaxrb.niehs.nih.gov

Team Low Bucks "We're just happy to be here..." *****************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 05:46:01 -0700
From: "Jim" To:
Subject: An end to front end blues!
Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The other day I was greasing the front end on my truck when I noticed the left lower king pin's grease fitting was plugged. I disassembled the grease fitting and plug cleaned out the hardened grease, checked the pin, axle and spindle, no damage was found (hmmm, this isn't my luck), reassembled and greased it, everything is working fine in that area. further inspection I noticed the steering Flex coupler was shot.
I bought my truck 4 years ago, it was in bad shape but I needed a ride. It had wood racks and leaned to one side. When I started it up it sound more like a military funeral, then an engine. It didn't have a straight quarter panel, it was ugly green and those wooden racks had to go! It had no eye appeal at all, but it was 100% there and 100% Ford. A never say die 302, C4 Trans and a 9" rear, I'll Take it! That day it seen it's last Tow Truck.
The Tow Truck was a Ford so it was like a brother just helping a brother home. My wife Teddi (Yes, it's her real name, and she is a she and always has been!) thought I had... (OK for the past 17 years she's been a she, before that I don't know :) ] )... lost my mind! I told her it only needed a tune up and a muffler. She doesn't believe me!
Off I went to the parts store. I bought every tune up part there was, I knew it needed every one. Living in a condo and doing the tune up out side in the no parking zone, brought my project under the scrutiny of many a non believer. The quest I had, to get this truck driveable with just a tune up and a muffler.
I could hear them talking " He was a quiet man." "I don't know! He kept mainly to himself." and " Ya, he told me it just need's a tune up and a muffler." "Is he a Vet?". The next day after a trip to Speedway Muffler and the You Do It Car Wash, they ate their words!
After that day in the sun, I did little else to it. Tune ups and fix little things, put in some sounds but just mainly drove the sh...tuff out of it! It always had a quark, it would drift one way then the other (Hay!
I'm back to the point of all this!), not bad but noticeable. I drive it straight, but when I get into my wives Aerostar it would be " Sir would you please step out of the car! Have you been drinking? " No. I don't drink!" "Do you know your weaving?" "Yes!" "Why were you weaving?" "Well, when I learned how to drive I did drink, and that would have straight back then!" wow! Bad crowd here tonight :)! Anyway that is now fixed!
I called around town, nobody had one. that's impossible! This would be a common maintenance part and sure to be a rack item. I head off to Pep Boy's down street and there it was in the rack of red package all the other parts you need. $40.00 are they out of their minds? Must be, takes one to know one!
Then next to it a rebuild your flex coupler package, $7.00! OK! I can live with that so I buy it! I also see a can of Mother's California Gold car wax, I remember someone recommending this. I buy it to. At home I had to try the new wax. I spread some out on my buffer add a little NU-Finish (Why? I don't know, I read the directions on the buffer.... This came close enough for me!) and did half of the hood, changed pads on the buffer...
Man! this works good! I do the other half and my wife comes out "WOW! That looks good!" It could Ruin my anti theft deterrent, thank God it can't put paint on Bondo, I would need to lock it! I try some on the Yamaha (the reason I bought it, and it wouldn't be the guinea pig!) For those of you who haven't seen an 83 Seca they came in to colors (I could be wrong on this. Although I believe I'm correct I will require this disclaimer!) black and red. mine is the red. The red is that dark blood red. NU-Finish made it look beautiful. The Mother's made it look like you could pour it into a wine glass and drink it! (umm, kind of got away again didn't it! Sorry!)
First I couldn't find in the manual the procedure for removing it, I may have done some unnecessary disassembly. I tend to do that, I like repairs to upgrade the original when ever possible.
1) I remove the bolts securing it to the steering shaft and the bolt in the clamp on the gearbox side.
2) I loosen The column and pull it back as far as it will go.
3) I remove it from the gear box. (After 25 years it didn't want to go, it went!)
Next came a new problem. they are not made to be rebuilt! the pins are pressed in and mushroomed on the O.D. and must come out to remove the old and install the new (Dampener, Grommet black flexible thing?) I used my angle grinder and cut off the mushroom end then knock them out with a drift. Painted the parts that will be reused and then I opened the package and took out the (see above) and lined it up with the pin holes on the clamp and everything looks fine. I take out the new hardware and one of the pins is half the thickness of the original though it would work, I used the original. the other is fine and use it. The new pin is threaded and has a nut, so I install it first and use the forever and then some lok-tight on the nut. If you do this remember you have a bolt in the clamp and if you use the new pin with the forever and then some Lok- Tight on the same side, you can't get the bolt in with out using your angle grinder and taking off part of the nut! (I can hear you! It's not funny!) Live and learn!
The other side I used JB Weld, pressed in the old pin (I used my vise) then drilled a hole at the seam between the pin and the clamp took a self tapping metal screw JB screwed it in the hole securing the pin in the clamp. I let it sit for a few hours so there would be no way on Gods green earth I could change them around once I found the nut was in the way of the bolt!
Installation is about the same but backwards and easier, everything wire brushed anti sized and painted. I was ready to take it out for a test drive. It drifted one way then the other, took my hand off the wheel and it went straight, good it's me!
Take it easy all!
Later

Jim Strigas jstrigas worldnet.att.net
"73" Ford F100 (piece a %*&#^ Love it, I Just Love it!) "89" Ford Aerostar (a Frameless Hussy, But a good ol Gal.) "83" Yamaha XJ900RK (Best Gift of my life! From my best friends! RSCL) "86" Honda GoldWing GL1200 (OK, this part goes here, and this... this... I think goes on the truck.)

Be Cool Daddy-O {B-)>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 9:39 -0500
From: "Blash Edward"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Delete my e-mail delivery
Message-ID:

Sirs/Ladies:


Due to an oversubscription of e-mail from the FORD TRUCK site, I request that my name be deleted from "fordtrucks lofcom.com". Thank You.


Respectfully,


ED BLASH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 08:47:53 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: Ford Trucks List Subject: 360FE Engine Code
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>What is the engine code for a 360 in 67? My engine code shows up as
>the same as a 360 (I believe its a Y not sure as neither the truck or
>the manual is around), but my guides don't show a Y code until 70 (71?).
>I assumed the Y to be a 352 in 67. This doesn't make sense since the
>352 has a different code for the year. Can anyone clarify this? I
>believe 360s were available but Chiltons doesn't (those "shop manuals"
>suck anyways). I sure hope someone out there has something better
>than my manuals - one of these days I'm going to bite the bullet
>and pick up a Ford shop manual reproduction.
>
Here's something interesting. The 352 was used in the F-Series pickups from 1965-1967. However, the engine code for the 352 was "D" in 1965-1966, and then "Y" in 1967. In 1968, the 360 replaced the 352 and kept the "Y" engine code throughout it's run (which ended in 1976). I have two Ford ID books and they both agree on this point and they also agree there was no 360 in the '67 trucks. So, if Ford did slip a 360 in a '67 model a little early, it likely would also carry the "Y" code.

>I never can figure out why Ford produced the 360. All the power
>of a 352 and all the milage of a 390 (ie, the worst of both worlds).
>
The 360 was the "regular-duty" version of the 361 truck engine. The 352 originated as a car engine. You are correct about one thing - they are both slugs. However, the 360 can pull your house off the blocks and I think that's what Ford had in mind.

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 08:47:54 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: Ford Trucks List Subject: FE block identification
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I am planning on tying to find an engine for my truck someday soon from a
>recycling yard. I guess I am going to go with a 360 FE or 390 FE,
>considering all of the good comments I have seen here, still a little unsure
>of my decision. I need to know how to look at a grease covered engine, look
>past all the grease, and make sure I am getting what I am paying for. Can
>anyone give me a quick checklist of items to look for???
>
If you especially want an FE, get the 390. It pulls just as hard as a 360, gets just as bad MPG, but runs a lot better on the open road. If you are not married to the FE, I'd get a 460. This is by far the best big motor Ford has produced for mass use. They are cheap, easy to find, and loaded with torque.

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 08:47:57 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: Ford Trucks List Subject: '61 F100 Production Figures
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The production figures for the 1961 F100 were as follows:

Platform 152

Platform 4x4 0

Chassis-Cab 12,544

Chassis-Cab 4x4 180

Flareside 21,474

Flareside 4x4 2,468

Styleside (integral) 62,410

Styleside 4x4 255

Chassis-Cowl 46

Chassis-Windshield 17

======
Total 99,546


These figures come from the "Ford Pickup Red Book" by Peter C. Sessler. I got mine from Classic Motorbooks and it costs only $10.95. Call them at (800)826-6600. The book covers years 1946-1977.

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 08:47:56 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: Ford Trucks List Subject: Flareside? Styleside?
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I keep getting confused about Flairside and Styleside. My 63 is, what I
>call a Stepside?
>
This is a pet peeve of mine. "Stepside" is a Chevy term so you will want to stop using it right away, correct? If your truck's fenders are rounded and not in line with the doors and there is a step just behind the doors, then it is a Flareside. This is the official Ford term for this bed. If the fenders are flat and line up with the doors, then your truck is a Styleside. Again, this is the official Ford term for the bed. Just FYI Chevy calls this bed a "Fleetside".

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 09:55:32 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel Message-ID:

On Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:24:11 -0400 (EDT) LanceWaldn aol.com writes:
>A low restriction muffler will help to increase milage but to really
>see
>gains you need to install headers also.


yup, nothing is better then a good set of headers, sounds good too.

.---. .-----------
/ \ __ / ------ fox mail.icso.com
/ / \(..)/ ----- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordmanted.com (Mustang Shop)
////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icso.net/stangpower (Ford Man)
//// / // : : --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icso.net/luke (Mustang Site) // / / /` '-- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icso.net/ranger (Ranger Site) // //..\
=======UU====UU===[95 Ranger XLT 2.3L]=[silent.bob juno.com]===
'//||\`
''``

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:08:26 -0400
From: Gerald and Lisa Hoel To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Holley Carb
Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

A huge thank you to everyone who responded to our '77 F-150 identification question and Holley carb problem. Everyone's input has been extremely thought provoking.

We are now looking at purchasing a new carb for the truck. Does anyone have a preference on carb manufacturers (ie Holley, Edelbrock etc.)? We are interested in the Edelbrock b/c it supposedly does not leak and has a good reputation for good performance.

We are somewhat unsure of the difference between center hung and side hung floats. What is the performance difference b/w center hung and side hung. Our truck is mostly for daily driving and light off road use, maybe some hauling in the future when we move..

Also, does Edelbrock make a "double pumper"? Finally, one last rather stupid question -- but here goes.. what is the difference b/w spread bore and square flange carbs.

Thanks to all for your help in advance. You guys are great!

Jerry & Lisa
1977 F-150 Stepside (351M Torque Monster)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:18:32 -0400
From: Larry Wiandt
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Well, I've gotten a good deal of information on this subject. I still don't know it the boost in mileage is enough to bother or not. Also I am concerned about the increase in noise. If you heard my truck fire up in the garage, the last thing you would want is more noise.

thanks fot the information,

Larry
93 F350 CrewCab 4x4


At 09:55 AM 1997/04/23 EDT, you wrote:
>
>On Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:24:11 -0400 (EDT) LanceWaldn aol.com writes:
>>A low restriction muffler will help to increase milage but to really
>>see
>>gains you need to install headers also.
>
>
>yup, nothing is better then a good set of headers, sounds good too.
>
> .---. .-----------
> / \ __ / ------ fox mail.icso.com
> / / \(..)/ ----- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordmanted.com (Mustang Shop)
> ////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icso.net/stangpower (Ford Man)
> //// / // : : --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icso.net/luke (Mustang Site)
> // / / /` '-- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icso.net/ranger (Ranger Site)
>// //..\
> =======UU====UU===[95 Ranger XLT 2.3L]=[silent.bob juno.com]===
> '//||\`
> ''``
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:18:46 -0500
From: PAYNK (Ken Payne) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks -Reply
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Disposition: inline

Its and FE if it says 352 on the front of the block.

>>> Zander Busch 04/22/97 08:05pm >>> I need some help decoding my engine's identification label.

? ?
It reads - SE617AA - I am unsure about the S and the 6. I understand the 617 portion would offer up the engine's displacement.


I was told that this wasn't the original motor for my truck. My mystery motor is a V8 and I believe it to be part of the FE family. I had a 1967 F100 with a 352. Mystery motor pulls a lot harder. However, this could be due to the fact that it has a Carter four barrel - the 352 only had a Holly two barrel.

Please Help,

-Alex
1975 F250


____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:50:19 -0400
From: Gerald and Lisa Hoel To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Inline 6 vs. V8
Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I wonder if somebody in Ford Truck land who knows engines much better than I, could settle a dispute I'm having with the "local know-it-all"

I have been informed that inline 6's are actually extremely good racing motors and can actually be faster than a V-8. It was to my uneducated understanding that an inline 6 is more geared towards power/torque than speed...

Jerry & Lisa
'77 F-150 FLARESIDE (351M Torque Monster)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:14:18 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: Big Bronco List ,
Ford Trucks List Subject: 1979 F150 For Sale
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Anybody in Texas need a good beater/parts hauler or a 460 doner truck? I saw a 1979 F150 Ranger for sale in Thrall, Texas (about 50 miles West of Austin) for $550 this past Sunday. It was in pretty good shape considering the price (A/C worked, no rust except the tailgate, all the chrome was there, even had a bed liner) and it has a 460/C6 in it. E-mail me direct if you want the phone number.

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 11:32:51 -0400 (EDT) From: LA46544 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Muffler's
Message-ID:

Hey Ford Fans:

Heres something i have done to my ford trucks since 1989. The ford mufflers are very restrictive so i have always cut them out and run strait pipe from the cat back. The sound depends on how much pipe and bending you do. I currently own a 96 F-350 4x4, 351. I ran a 3 inch single off the back of the cat and exited before the rear wheels. This did free up the restriction and gave it a sound all my friends love. While on the gas i can here the note easily, but while cruising on the highway you don't notice it at all. Cost $50.00

Marty

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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 11:32:54 -0400 (EDT) From: LA46544 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: driveshaft slack
Message-ID:

Hey Ranger Truckers

I owned a 92 Ranger 4x4 _4.0L 5 speed 3.73 gear ext cab. Also a buddy bought the same exact model. We both complained about the drive train noise to the dealer and were told it was "normal". We both assumed the noise to be a large tollerance in the ring and pinion back lash set-up. We are both running factory limited slip diffs.
If you find another answer let us know please.

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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 11:33:03 -0400 (EDT) From: LA46544 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions Message-ID:

Hey there Ranger Trucker

I have always bought the lowest gears (numericaly high) i could, to get the best gas milage, this is my theory. The EPA uses the indoor "treadmill" to test MPG. The dynometer never accurately takes into account enviromental and weather conditions. Thus to give a good MPG reading, lower gears are the prefered set. BUT i have found in actual driving conditions the engine lugs to much and the milage is better at higher RMP's. Does anybody else subscribe to my theory out there?

a few trucks i have owned:
ROAD MILAGE / no air cond. / PS PB / k&n air filtration / flow through exaust 87 Bronco 6cyl 4 speed manual 3.73=18mpg 89 F-250 4x4 302 5 speed 4.10=18mpg
92 Ranger 4x4 4.0L 5 speed 3.73 18mpg....


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