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------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 59

Today's Topics:

Re: FE blocks [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
Re: How to remove doors and tailgate [Ken Payne ]
Re: 1963 F100 Sales Figures [Randy Zeilinger
Re: FE blocks [Mathew Baker
Re: Need Desperate help With The Veh [Ken Payne ]
Re: How to remove doors and tailgate [Ken Payne ]
Re: FE blocks [Zander Busch ]
Re: A modest proposal [KPalmer aol.com ]
1961 F100 Production # Question. ["Eric and/or Denise"
Re: It can't be said enough, Thank y [KPalmer aol.com ]
I..... [KPalmer aol.com ]
Re: Help-bearing woes-'68 F100 360 [Daver ]
Re: Muffler's [schneeberger juno.com (Zack H Schne]
Re: FE Block Identifiction [Daver ]
Re: FE blocks [Daver ]
FE? [Zander Busch ]
FE Blocks Again [Drew Beatty
Re: Holley Carb [LenJG aol.com ]
Re: Holley Carb [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
RE: FE Blocks [Drew Beatty
Re: FE blocks [LenJG aol.com ]
Re: driveshaft slack [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
Re: 90 Bronco Mileage [JIM HURD ]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 16:43:25 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>
>Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 22:36:39 -0800
>From: Michael & Linda Waak
>To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>Subject: Re: FE blocks
>Message-Id:
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>Mega Ditto's fellow Fordnatics, I'm a long time listener but a first time
>caller.
>
>I have found this group to be very informative and inhabited by adults
>(kids don't belong on usenet or ML's)
>
>My neighbor just bought a 66' F100 for 200 bucks and we spent the last week
>getting the Ol' Girl going again, but I'm confused because it has a smog
>pump on it with the tubes running into the heads. He swears that it's the
>original motor but I think it must be a later model (pre '75 because it
>doesn't have the same set-up as my F-250 Hi Boy). If anyone can tell me
>when they started to put smog pumps on FE series motors we might be able to
>at least narrow it down a little.

That seems to be a hard one.. I don't know what the rhyme or reason was to "what years" FE's had smog pumps. It seems to vary a lot.
I've seen smog pumps in FE LTD's and Galaxies as early as '65. Lot's had it in 66-67. Mid/late 60's cars often had them, usually without EGR, but it seems like in early 70's, the pumps became less common for a couple years (but lots had EGR), then pumps came back agin by early/mid 70's.(usually -with- EGR)
These have all been CA. sedans.
Dunno about trucks. My '73 FE390/F100 doesn't have a smog pump, only EGR.

Whats the casting #'s on the heads and intake man? That should give You some clue as to aprox year.

>Also I was wondering if anyone has the '66 tune-up specs as the it appears
>to have the original distributor (points).

Dunno, but if the distributor turns out to be shot, a Duraspark(magnetic pickup) distributor from a '76 FE makes a nice upgrade.
I love mine, and don't miss changing points hardly at all... (-:

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:17:08 -0400
From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: How to remove doors and tailgate Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 12:30 PM 4/22/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I found some good doors and tailgate from a 70 Custom Sport in a local
>yard and am wanting to remove them. I was looking at my truck and assume
>to remove the doors I just undo to bolts in the cab. I'm not sure what all
>is to be removed from the tailgate.
> Ryan
>

You're correct on the door. Don't forget to take the spring off first.
Get someone to help! They are alot heavier than they look. As to the tailgate, open it about halfway. One side will lift out (can't remember which), once it start coming out the other side comes out. They were designed this way so you could take it off if you needed to.

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:21:23 -0400
From: Randy Zeilinger To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1963 F100 Sales Figures
Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Don Grossman wrote:
>
> I keep getting confused about Flairside and Styleside. My 63 is, what I
> call a Stepside?
>
> Let me see the light
> --
> Don Grossman
> duckdon pacific.net
>
> It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......
>
> 65 Ford F-150 4x4 (soon to be 72 Mustang)
> 63 Ford F-250 4x4
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

Stlyesides are the boxes that are Smooooth sided aka wide beds.
Flaresides are the boxes with the "flared" wheel wells aka narrow beds.

This terminology is still used today on current production.

The only difference is that we identify trucks by cab style and wheel base. ie SCSF = supercab w/ 6 1/2' flareside box.

Hope this helps,
Randy Z. 96 SCS (SuperCab Short Styleside)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 18:30:24 -0600
From: Mathew Baker To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

sdelanty sonoma.net wrote:
>
> >
> >Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 22:36:39 -0800
> >From: Michael & Linda Waak
> >To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> >Subject: Re: FE blocks
> >Message-Id:
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> >Mega Ditto's fellow Fordnatics, I'm a long time listener but a first time
> >caller.
> >
> >I have found this group to be very informative and inhabited by adults
> >(kids don't belong on usenet or ML's)
> >
> >My neighbor just bought a 66' F100 for 200 bucks and we spent the last week
> >getting the Ol' Girl going again, but I'm confused because it has a smog
> >pump on it with the tubes running into the heads. He swears that it's the
> >original motor but I think it must be a later model (pre '75 because it
> >doesn't have the same set-up as my F-250 Hi Boy). If anyone can tell me
> >when they started to put smog pumps on FE series motors we might be able to
> >at least narrow it down a little.
>

Ok, here is what I have for info: We have '66, '69, and '72 F-250's, and NONE of them have any form of emissions besides the normal PCV valve and hose to the aircleaner. The engines are a 352, 360 and 390 respectively

Mat Baker
'64 F-250 4X4, 292 Y-block Thunderbird V8

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:38:36 -0400
From: Ken Payne To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Need Desperate help With The Vehicle Listing Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 03:45 AM 3/20/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey I've got a 93 Explorer Sport which has been lifted 4 inches and sits on
>31inch tires. I've built several web pages in my time and one of them is
>dedicated to my explorer and the other more inportantly to vehicles in
>general...
>
> The Vehicle listing is a web site dedicated to showing off anyones vehicle
>which has been modified beyond stock. All of the listing are free of charge
>and duty free. Recently I've had a flux of new vehicles. most being cars. I
>would like to see more trucks out on this page. And namely Fords. And that is
>where this posting is comming in.
> If you would like to add your truck to this site please inform me. You can
>visit the site at "http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/Motorcity/Downs/2212/" or follow
>this Link. You may
>reply to this e-mail or e-mail me at thevehiclelist geocities.com
>
>well thanks and i hope to here from you soon
>
>Shane Hale
>93 Explorer Sport
>

My truck isn't digitized. However, if you subscribe to the Ford Trucks Enthusiasts
email list I'm sure some off the users on the list may be interested. We have 500+
users. Full subscribe information (its free):

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks/listserv.html

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:50:05 -0400
From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: How to remove doors and tailgate Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 12:30 PM 4/22/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>I found some good doors and tailgate from a 70 Custom Sport in a local
>>yard and am wanting to remove them. I was looking at my truck and assume
>>to remove the doors I just undo to bolts in the cab. I'm not sure what all
>>is to be removed from the tailgate.
>> Ryan
>>

>You're correct on the door. Don't forget to take the spring off first.
>Get someone to help! They are alot heavier than they look. As to the
>tailgate, open it about halfway. One side will lift out (can't remember
>which), once it start coming out the other side comes out. They were
>designed this way so you could take it off if you needed to.

I'm embarrassed to admit this but... someone just brought to my attention that my advice about the tailgate may have been wrong. Just went outside and double-checked - sure enough, you have unbolt the sucker. It does not pop out. Here comes the embarrassing part - I got my wires mixed and was thinking of the very handy (hate to admit it) latch mechanism my father had on his step-side 64 GMC truck (aaahhhhh!!!!). I'll never live this one down.

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 18:05:44 -0700
From: Zander Busch
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I need some help decoding my engine's identification label.

? ?
It reads - SE617AA - I am unsure about the S and the 6. I understand the 617 portion would offer up the engine's displacement.


I was told that this wasn't the original motor for my truck. My mystery motor is a V8 and I believe it to be part of the FE family. I had a 1967 F100 with a 352. Mystery motor pulls a lot harder. However, this could be due to the fact that it has a Carter four barrel - the 352 only had a Holly two barrel.

Please Help,

-Alex
1975 F250

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:11:11 -0400 (EDT) From: KPalmer aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: A modest proposal
Message-ID:

listen....stop e-mailing me!!!!!my name is Kyle Palmer and im 14.....im tired of getting other peoplles mail!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:20:51 -0500
From: "Eric and/or Denise" To:
Subject: 1961 F100 Production # Question.
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey John S.

Great info on the '63 production year numbers....

Can you send me the info for '61? I'm really curious about those numbers since it was the first year for the Unibody.....and, well, of course 'cuz mine falls into that year!!! ;)

P.S. What reference book are you looking at? I and others may be interested in getting ahold of one, too.

Thanks in advance,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:14:14 -0400 (EDT) From: KPalmer aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: It can't be said enough, Thank you Ken!
Message-ID:

I am not KEN!!!!!!!!!!!!my name is kyle and im 14...stop e-mailing me!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:16:16 -0400 (EDT) From: KPalmer aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: I.....
Message-ID:

would just like you to know that most of your e-mail is coming to me. my address is KPalmer AOL.com.....i receive almost 20 messages a day from different people to you!!!!if there is anything you could do to help this, i would be much obliged.

thank you...Kyle Palmer(Mesa, Arizona)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:43:47 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Help-bearing woes-'68 F100 360 Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Richard Cherico wrote:
>
> Well, the bearing knocks are beckoning me to action. I'm hoping to do the
> main bearings with the engine still in the truck if this is possible. What
> I would like to know from the experienced ones is:
> 1) Can all the main bearings be replaced with the engine still in the truck
> 2) Since I'm replacing all of the bearings, should I have the crank
> journals reground?
> 3) If yes to #2, does the block need any machine work?
> 4) How should I go about selecting the bearing size-should I Plastiguage
> what's in there, or what?
> 5) If I want to install a 390 crank while I'm at this (if I pull the
> engine), what additional work do I need to do? (con-rod bearings, etc.)
> 6) Since this work is still a month away and I'll probably put another
> 1,200 miles on this in the meantime, should I switch to a heavier oil to
> prevent any damage? (30HD currently)
> 7) Is there any specific noise that a spinning bearing makes that is
> different from a knocking bearing that I should listen for?
> I'd consider overhauling the motor for the trouble, but it's getting strong,
> even compression and strong vacuum.
> I really appreciate any help on this. I know it's a lot of questions, but
> I'm sure that somebody with a little experience shouldn't have any problems
> with this. Thanks in advance for any and all help.
> bigric mail.utexas.edu
> '68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 FE
> '66 VW Beetle 1300->1500

If you are going to replace the main and/or rod bearings then you need to pull the engine out and have the proper overhaul done. Poor boy jobs will simply get you what you already have, an engine that is going down.
I know I have the rod and piston to prove it, I keep them as a reminder.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:41:47 EDT
From: schneeberger juno.com (Zack H Schneeberger) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Muffler's
Message-ID:

On Mon, 21 Apr 1997 21:01:28 -0500 dherzog fv.stlcc.cc.mo.us (David Herzog) writes:
>At 05:30 PM 4/19/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>I have a 92 f-150 with a 302 and while washing it noticed some holes
>in my
>>muffler. I would like some opinions on what kind to get to replace
>it. Do
>>any of them add power or make it sound cool (not loud though)etc?
>>
>>
>>Wendell Holmquist
>>whmquist icontrol.net
>>
>>
>>
>>____________________________________________________________________
>>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>>For help send mail with subject "HELP"
>to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>>
>>I have a 94 F-150 with a 302 V8. I replaced the exhaust at
>"MADHATTER"
>muffler shop, and I am certain that other shops in your area could do
>the same.
>
>The glass pack muffler has 1 inlet and 2 outlets. They ran twin tail
>pipes
>out the rear (one on each side of the rear bumper) and welded on
>chrome
>tips. The result was a grat sound (healthy) without a lot of noise.
>The
>cost was $139!!
>^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
>DAVID L. HERZOG Ph.D.,PROFESSOR OF BUSINESS & MANAGEMENT
>ST. LOUIS COMMUNITY COLLEGE AT FLORISSANT VALLEY
>DIVISION OF BUSINESS AND HUMAN SERVICES
>3400 PERSHALL RD.
>ST. LOUIS, MO 63615
>(314) 595-2339
>^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP"
>to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

Wait, a glasspack without alot of noise? I didn't know there was such a thing?!



Zack

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:28:58 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE Block Identifiction
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Keith Srb wrote:
>
> O.K. I know there has been lot of talk about the differences between a 352,
> 360, and 390 FE Engines. I have seen a lot said about how to determine the
> actual displacement of the engine. I have not seen anything that tells you
> how to id the block as "FE" or "Not an FE." Is there such a thing as a 3XX
> Block that is not a FE Block??

Identifing an FE is easy. An FE's intake actually apears to makeup Part of the head. If you look carefully there is a split were the intake and the actual head meet "under the valve cover". Ford built two true big block families the FE and the 385 family from which came the 429/460 engines. Some think the clevland family is a big block yet there is a conversion that allows the cleland heads to bolt up to 302's and 289's (not exactly BB's)

>
> I am planning on tying to find an engine for my truck someday soon from a
> recycling yard. I guess I am going to go with a 360 FE or 390 FE,
> considering all of the good comments I have seen here, still a little unsure
> of my decision. I need to know how to look at a grease covered engine, look
> past all the grease, and make sure I am getting what I am paying for. Can
> anyone give me a quick checklist of items to look for???
>
> Several people who reply to a log of messages talk about checking things our
> in their books and then relying to a question. Would you guys list the
> authors and names of these books please??

The descusions of late were debates over how to decern the cubes not the type engine. the Fe series would be a good choice and the Clevland 351 would also make a good choice for V8's; however, if you are looking for a great solid daly driver that will be dependable with very little maintinance that is great on gas I suggest a 300 cid straight 6.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:39:05 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Zander Busch wrote:
>
> I need some help decoding my engine's identification label.
>
> ? ?
> It reads - SE617AA - I am unsure about the S and the 6. I understand
> the 617 portion would offer up the engine's displacement.
>
> I was told that this wasn't the original motor for my truck. My mystery
> motor is a V8 and I believe it to be part of the FE family. I had a
> 1967 F100 with a 352. Mystery motor pulls a lot harder. However, this
> could be due to the fact that it has a Carter four barrel - the 352 only
> had a Holly two barrel.
>
> Please Help,
>
> -Alex
> 1975 F250
>

HiPro 352's and 390's (fairly common) will pull yer shorts off if yer not careful Sneaky critters they are.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 19:54:43 -0700
From: Zander Busch
To: "FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com" Subject: FE?
Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I need some help decoding my engine's identification label.

? ?
It reads - SE617AA - I am unsure about the S and the 6. I understand the 617 portion would offer up the engine's displacement.


I was told that this wasn't the original motor for my truck. My mystery motor is a V8 and I believe it to be part of the FE family. I had a 1967 F100 with a 352. Mystery motor pulls a lot harder. However, this could be due to the fact that it has a Carter four barrel - the 352 only had a Holly two barrel.

Please Help,

-Alex
1975 F250

------------------------------

Date: 22 Apr 97 23:44:12 EDT
From: Drew Beatty To: "'FORD TRUCKS'" Subject: FE Blocks Again
Message-ID:

It appears that I have asked one of those big questions. Excellent. Here's all the answers I have heard from around here.

I spoke to a local parts recycler, and they told me that the only difference in the motors is the crank and the bore (a no brainer). Engine block casting ##'s might not tell the specific displacement, since something may have been changed over the years, and the block is the same for all 3 displacements. This engine does have a rebuild on it. These ##'s will tell what it left the factory as 30 years ago, however. They told me that a 352 and a 360 have a half moon cut in the crank flange where the flywheel bolts up. They said a 390 crank is totally round. Mine has the half moon cut.

I spoke to a guy who has been racing Fords up Pikes Peak for years, and he told me that there is a casting number on the 1st throw of the crankshaft. 2A designates 390, 2B or 2AA designates 360, and he didn't know what the 352 has.
Mine has no casting number (I pulled the pan to change the dreaded FE rear main seal and the leak turned out to be somewhere else) so therefore I assume that I have the 352.

I can tell what was original by running the VIN ## through the Ford dealer. They say 352, and I am about 90% convinced at this point that they are right, as I think everything is original in the beast. To my knowledge the 360 didn't come out until the 70's "energy crisis" (whatever happened to that???) when Ford was trying to combine fuel economy with big block power. And, yes, from what I have read 1967 was the last year of the 352.

So, this, combined with what you all have answered, is what I know. Thanks for all the help. I'll try to get the block casting ##'s and run them by those who can decode them. I'll also run them by Ford to see if it's the original motor.

DC Beatty
1967 F100
1974 Maverick

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 23:48:07 -0400 (EDT) From: LenJG aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Holley Carb
Message-ID:

It's kinda funny that you bring this up because I just recently went through this very sinerio with my brothers truck ('85 Ford F-150, 351 HO 4bl.). It has a Holley carb on it, I believe it is the same one but not sure. I thought it was a leak at the secondary shaft also but turned out to be the base gasket and not the shaft. But I did a little research on this matter before hand and Holley carbs seem to have this problem on a regular basis with a carb that has been in service for a while. And there is a fix for it. Holley makes a bushing kit for all of there carbs as a repair for this problem. If you have a good reputeable carb shop in your area they should be able to machine the base plate and put the bushing in for you. I beleive the shop that I talked to said for around $60.00 but don't quote me.
I also found a Holley web page that listed these parts and the reaming tool to do the job yourself if you have a means of doing this. As far as your dying problem, this could be it if there is a big enough vacume leak.
Good luck on your problem.
LenJG

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 00:14:49 -0400 (EDT) From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Holley Carb
Message-ID:

Whoever told you to put an 850 Holley carburator on your truck is nuts! The 351M is a torque motor at low RPM's and an 850 is for an engine that is a lot bigger than yours or runs at a lot higher RPM.
You can find some shops that can fix the leaky shaft but that might cost a lot of time and money.
I like the Edelbrock carburators better. they cost a little more but are a lot more trouble free. Look for one about 750 CFM.

Lance

------------------------------

Date: 23 Apr 97 00:17:35 EDT
From: Drew Beatty To: "'FORD TRUCKS'" Subject: RE: FE Blocks
Message-ID:

Hey Keith, I have found this book to be a credible source of info:
"Ford Performance" by Pat Ganahl. Published by S-A design books. It's so good I had a guy steal a copy of it from me a few years back. You will probably have to order it. If you can't find it let me know and I can give you the email of a bookstore that probably can.

About FE's, Ford is weird and they have different engine "families" of which the FE is one. It is a big block, and there are other big blocks that aren't FE's.
Get it? Weird.
FE blocks came in the following displacements: 332, 352, 360, 361, 390, 391, 406 (one bad motor!), 410, 427 (the King of bad motors), and 428 (King's cousin).
They have been made since 1958 in various displacements.
Some ways that I know of to identify the block externally are:

+FE's generally have no external vibration dampner. It's usually just a pulley wheel off the crank. It has a weird metal sleeve behind that.
+There is a casting number on the front right (driver's) side of the block directly beneath where the head bolts down. To my knowledge these read either "352," "360," or "390." Some of the more knowledgeable members may be able to confirm or correct that.
+I'm sure that finding the engine numbers can tell you if a motor is FE or not, but I'm not quite sure. I had to come here to find out where the numbers were on mine!
+If you ever see one without the flywheel, the rear main cap makes up the bottom skirt of the block. It's real square. That's where the pain in the *#* rope main seal is.

I'm no genius in regard to this, but at least these are a few suggestions to look for.

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302
----------
From: "Keith Srb"
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 1997 1:01 PM
To: INTERNET:FORDTRUCKS LOFCOM.COM
Subject: FE Block Identifiction

O.K. I know there has been lot of talk about the differences between a 352, 360, and 390 FE Engines. I have seen a lot said about how to determine the actual displacement of the engine. I have not seen anything that tells you how to id the block as "FE" or "Not an FE." Is there such a thing as a 3XX Block that is not a FE Block??

I am planning on tying to find an engine for my truck someday soon from a recycling yard. I guess I am going to go with a 360 FE or 390 FE, considering all of the good comments I have seen here, still a little unsure of my decision. I need to know how to look at a grease covered engine, look past all the grease, and make sure I am getting what I am paying for. Can anyone give me a quick checklist of items to look for???

Several people who reply to a log of messages talk about checking things our in their books and then relying to a question. Would you guys list the authors and names of these books please??

Thank you one and all.
Keith Srb
1966 Ford F100 short box
1986 Ford Bronco II


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Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 00:22:33 -0400 (EDT) From: LenJG aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-ID:

I have a friend who has a 68 F-100 that was originally equiped with 300 six banger that his father purched off of the dealer lot brand new in the state of California with the original smog pump and related smog related garb. of that time. So I know in 1968 to meet California emmissions it had to be equiped with a smog pump (thermactor) to be sold in California.....


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