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------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 58

Today's Topics:

Re: Chrome Wheels Rusting (ARRGH) [dherzog fv.stlcc.cc.mo.us (David He]
Re: restoration [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: restoration [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: Bearing Replacment - 360FE [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: driveshaft slack [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
1967 Factory 360 [Stuart Varner
1967 Factory 360 -Reply [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
Re: How to remove doors and tailgate [RL ]
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [Gregory Sherwin
new guy dumb question [stevefogarty ]
new guy dumb question -Reply [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
360FE Bearing Replacement [John Strauss
90 Bronco Mileage [Litemeup aol.com ]
FE Block Identifiction ["Keith Srb"
RE: Pictorial is down ["Keith Srb"
Re: Sticker [Tom Steggell II ]
Re: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions [Gardner ]
Suppliers page [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
FE Block Identifiction -Reply [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
Re: 1963 F100 Sales Figures [Don Grossman ]
Re: Sticker ["Jason C Wodack"
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [GEDAVE aol.com ]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 10:54:16 -0500
From: dherzog fv.stlcc.cc.mo.us (David Herzog) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Chrome Wheels Rusting (ARRGH) Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 08:01 AM 4/22/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Thanks to all who responded to my last posting about my neighbor's F-100
>and to Ken for hosting this list.
>
>I have a problem with my truck. It has aftermarket chrome 5 spoke wheels
>(Unique Brand) and they seem to have an abnormally bad rusting problem. The
>guy at the tire shop says to wax them but in 2 or 3 weeks the rust is back.
>
>Please help me and others as I am sure this is a common problem.
>
>M
>
>
>
> Primerica Financial Services > Yesterday is a cancelled check,
> Michael D. Waak
> "The Crusaders" > Today is cash, USE IT WISELY!!
> mikewaak jps.net
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
YES YES...steel wheels rust. You sure need to wax them often or you can try a clear coat spray. I have used a high quality clearcost lacqor paint.
Even then, every few month the little rust bunnys return..

I did find a solution -- aluminum wheels!! Hope it helps ^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* DAVID L. HERZOG Ph.D.,PROFESSOR OF BUSINESS & MANAGEMENT ST. LOUIS COMMUNITY COLLEGE AT FLORISSANT VALLEY DIVISION OF BUSINESS AND HUMAN SERVICES 3400 PERSHALL RD.
ST. LOUIS, MO 63615
(314) 595-2339
^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:23:55 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: restoration
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>At 11:28 PM 4/21/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>I'm a new subscriber and my father passed on his 1971 F-100 sport custom
>>to me when he purchased a 1990 f-250 (7.3L D) ext. cab. My '71 is in need
>>of some restoration and I am seeking some info. on prices for a dash pad,
>>arm rests, and steering wheel. I would also like to get the most power
>>out of the 352 in it for less bucks. Any info. would be welcomed.
>>
>Obsolete Ford, Dennis Carpenter, Carolina Classics and Melvins all
>sell the parts you need (on the web site).

Yes, Carpenter sells the stuff, but boy is it expensive!! ($400 for a dash pad). My suggestion is to look in the scraps if you can for this stuff just so you don't go bankrupt.

>As far as power, Edelbrock has a 4bbl intake/carb combo that might help.
>The best bang for the buck would be to find a 4bbl carb/intake at a
>junkyard (most likely off a car) and put it on. Headers help to.
>Cheapest I've seen headers were $99 in some mag for no-namers.

Ford made a nice dual plane 4bbl manifold for this engine in cast iron.
Make sure that you get the manifold valve-cover mating surface milled to the height of your heads, otherwise you'll be having oil seeping on you.

As for headers, I would recommend against them. The manifolds are virtually unrestrictive on these engines and the more you fiddle with them the worse.
Headers can be great but, esp with cheap ones, you'll end up with heat dissipation problems underhood and the contant stench of melting wires and hoses. Better to just put a 2 1/2" dual exhaust on the thing. This is easy and cheap, and even with my cheapo Thrush muffler conversion with the bigger (vs. 2"-2 1/4" pipe) made a huge difference in power.

>
>-Ken Payne
> 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
> List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
> Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe
> form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:26:46 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: restoration
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>What is the address to these web sites?
>
>Obsolete Ford
>Dennis Carpenter
>Carolina Classics
>Melvins


Ken meant their address is on OUR website.

btw I sent you the message about the $400 dash pad.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:35:20 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Bearing Replacment - 360FE Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Yes. I just did this about 6 months ago in my '91 Bronco. You will need
>the special tool to replace the rear main seal. It's a rope seal on this
>engine and there is a tool kind of like that chinese finger trap with a wire
>on it to pull the seal around.

That seal is a real bastard to get out, if it's the rope one. Here's what I had to do:

I took the bearing cap off and removed the bottom part of the seal. Then I soaked the rope seal in wd40 for an hour. Then I took some (about 6 inches) of that coily outer shell of a throttle cable (w/o the actuator cable inside) out of my scrap bin, stuck it in the end of my drill, and roto-rooted away. Several pieces of cable later, I was thru to the other side. I could then soak with more wd and poke with a decent-sized wire till all the rest of the rope came out. Like I said, it's a real bugger to remove if you don't take out the crank.

The new seal you'll put in is a rubber/steel gizmo in two pieces which just slides right in. Don't worry about installing the new one, it's very easy.
I would recommend the rubber-steel one (made by Fel-Pro) over the rope one anyday.

As this is one of the most ignorant jobs you will have to do on your truck, my sympathies go out to you.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:51:11 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: driveshaft slack
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>
>Does it make a metal to metal popping sound? (sort of like a hammer
>tapping your driveshaft) My 93 s-cab 4x4 5spd does this under load. (1st
>gear/reverse) I still am not sure exactly what it is yet. The first
>time I took the shaft out I put in new U-joints, then had it packed and
>balanced. It was quiet for 2 days and the noise started again. I
>consulted a shop and they did exactly what I did. Same problem. I think
>It may be a bad yoke/spline because the packed grease helped to quiet it
>down. It also could be tension on the center U-joint under load, the
>carrier bearing for the front shaft may letting the shaft move side to
>side too much.(creating a bind) I plan on asking about any TSB's when I
>have my parking brake recall done.
>

Although it's probably irrelevant, I have a 71 f250 4x4 and after a new clutch (needed one anyway) and 2 days of quitet I have a clunking chatter under load again. I finally figured it out as follows:

put my truck in 4by and see if the noise persists -- it didn't

crawl under the truck and try to shake everything in the drivetrain and
see what shakes/twists with play -- basically nothing did

kick the transfer case out of frustration -- bingo!!

Anyway, in my ancient and much different truck, the transfer case mounting rubbers are cracked and worn to the point of being useless, so the transfer case vibrates under load. You may wish to check if your transfer case is mounted properly, altho I'm unsure if on your model of truck it's integral with the transmission or separate.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:44:57 -0700
From: Stuart Varner To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1967 Factory 360
Message-id: Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

My Uncle George's truck was a 67 Custom ordered in the spring of 67 and arrived in April 1967......This was a 360...not a 352 as Ford motor company says it should be today. I know this truck came from the factory
with a 360 not the 352.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:27:03 -0500
From: PAYNK (Ken Payne) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1967 Factory 360 -Reply
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Disposition: inline

>>> Stuart Varner 04/22/97 01:44pm >>>
>My Uncle George's truck was a 67 Custom ordered in the spring of 67 and
>arrived in April 1967......This was a 360...not a 352 as Ford motor
>company says it should be today. I know this truck came from the
>factory with a 360 not the 352.

What is the engine code for a 360 in 67? My engine code shows up as the same as a 360 (I believe its a Y not sure as neither the truck or the manual is around), but my guides don't show a Y code until 70 (71?).
I assumed the Y to be a 352 in 67. This doesn't make sense since the 352 has a different code for the year. Can anyone clarify this? I believe 360s were available but Chiltons doesn't (those "shop manuals" suck anyways). I sure hope someone out there has something better than my manuals - one of these days I'm going to bite the bullet and pick up a Ford shop manual reproduction.

I never can figure out why Ford produced the 360. All the power of a 352 and all the milage of a 390 (ie, the worst of both worlds).

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:30:17 -0500 (CDT) From: RL
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: How to remove doors and tailgate Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

I found some good doors and tailgate from a 70 Custom Sport in a local yard and am wanting to remove them. I was looking at my truck and assume to remove the doors I just undo to bolts in the cab. I'm not sure what all is to be removed from the tailgate.
Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:30:29 -0500 (EST) From: Gregory Sherwin To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
cc: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Tue, 22 Apr 1997 LanceWaldn aol.com wrote:

> A low restriction muffler will help to increase milage but to really see
> gains you need to install headers also.
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

I receently replaced the 351W in my '84 F150 4X4 with a remanufactured one after I blew the first one. I put performance headers and dual glasspacks on it and the new engine with this free flow exhaust will beat the pants off the old engine ahnds down. Headers are a great way to bolt on extra power. Plus they sound great too!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:43:46 -0400
From: stevefogarty
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: new guy dumb question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi y'all. I'm new to the list and I really enjoy it. Thanks, Ken. I have a 77 F100 Custom 300ci 6 with 3 on column. It's been worked hard and is kinda rough, but it does have character.
Here's my stupid question. I have been unable to print the list of parts suppliers. All I get is blank pages. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks.
Steve Fogarty

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:57:46 -0500
From: PAYNK (Ken Payne) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: new guy dumb question -Reply
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Disposition: inline

Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I just figured out the problem. Since the background is dark the text is set to white.
When you print a web page the background is not printed. Hence you get white text on a white background. I'll change the color ASAP.


>>> stevefogarty 04/22/97 12:43pm >>> Hi y'all. I'm new to the list and I really enjoy it. Thanks, Ken. I have a 77 F100 Custom 300ci 6 with 3 on column. It's been worked hard and is kinda rough, but it does have character.
Here's my stupid question. I have been unable to print the list of parts suppliers. All I get is blank pages. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks.
Steve Fogarty


____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:03:07 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: Ford Trucks List Subject: 360FE Bearing Replacement
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Steve & Rockette wrote:

>You are going to need a new crank, I'm sorry to have to tell you this,
>but when an engine starts to knock, it takes parts out in a hurry, if
>I were you I'd be looking for a core motor from your friendly local
>wrecking yard. Just make sure the core motor comes from a truck, not
>a car, as the cars have lighter duty parts in them or try to find a
>GT390 which have the better heads and HD rods.
>

I think this depends on what he is trying to accomplish. If he wants to build a reliable, drive everyday for 100K miles without a worry engine then you are correct. However, I don't think this is mandatory. We may have two different impressions of the severity of this knock. My '91 Bronco had a slight bearing knock for about 75K of it's 135K life. I was not too concerned and just let it go until it got to knocking real loud when first starting up after an oil change. Then I figured it was time. I didn't want to do a complete build on this engine, even though the truck is a daily driver, because we were getting ready to go to Colorado on vacation and because the engine runs great, has excellent compression, and never uses any oil.

So, I slid up under it and pulled the oil pan, dropped the bearing caps, and found what I suspected - no babbit left on most bearings. The crank was modeled a little but not scored. If I had the engine out I would have had the crank polished. However, I figured the new bearings were better than what it had been using so in they went. We went to Colorado (from Austin, Texas) a week later without a problem and without a second thought.
After surveying the damage, I have surmised this truck was the victim of a negligent first "owner". We bought the truck with 45K on it from a dealer lot in Houston. I later found out it was a lease vehicle in San Antonio.
I imagine the user rarely if ever changed the oil in those first 45K since the truck started it's slight knocking at about 60K.

The point is an engine is not a Swiss watch. It can get by on less than optimal clearances and surface conditions. If this guys intention is to do a quick fix that will keep his truck on the road a little longer until a more comprehensive rebuild can be done, then I don't think he HAS to have a new crank. I've put about 10K on my Bronco since my bearing job and it is running and sounding better than ever. It's not like a new one, but for the $75 I put into parts and a few evening's labor, I think I got a bargain and I'm betting this engine makes 200K now before it must come out.

But, hey, that's just my story. YMMV. 8^)

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:42:37 -0400 (EDT) From: Litemeup aol.com
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: 90 Bronco Mileage
Message-ID:

I purchased a 90 bronco about 2 years ago and have driven it 52 k since i bought it and consistently only get 10.5-11.9 overall mileage with it. I do not pound on the gas. I live in So. CA and os most driving is on the highway. Is this normal or can someone help give me some suggestions.

I have already installed a K&N air filter, new O2 sensor, split fire plugs, checked and changed the thermostat to a 190F for told it might be running rich. I do drive on BF 32 11.5 15 tires.

I am not sure what the gear ratio is, i am assuming what ever was standard in the full size Bronco in 90

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 97 18:45:43 UT
From: "Keith Srb" To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: FE Block Identifiction
Message-Id:

O.K. I know there has been lot of talk about the differences between a 352, 360, and 390 FE Engines. I have seen a lot said about how to determine the actual displacement of the engine. I have not seen anything that tells you how to id the block as "FE" or "Not an FE." Is there such a thing as a 3XX Block that is not a FE Block??

I am planning on tying to find an engine for my truck someday soon from a recycling yard. I guess I am going to go with a 360 FE or 390 FE, considering all of the good comments I have seen here, still a little unsure of my decision. I need to know how to look at a grease covered engine, look past all the grease, and make sure I am getting what I am paying for. Can anyone give me a quick checklist of items to look for???

Several people who reply to a log of messages talk about checking things our in their books and then relying to a question. Would you guys list the authors and names of these books please??

Thank you one and all.
Keith Srb
1966 Ford F100 short box
1986 Ford Bronco II

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 97 18:20:15 UT
From: "Keith Srb" To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: Pictorial is down
Message-Id:

Ken, speaking only for myself, the technical information that I have gathered from your site far outweighs any picture that you could post on the web. So, for what it is worth, I would vote for losing the pictures and keeping the messages flowing.

Thank you, your hard work and effort is greatly appreciated by this die hard FORD fan !!!!

Keith Srb

-----Original Message-----
From: PAYNK (Ken Payne)
Sent: Monday, April 21, 1997 4:22 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Pictorial is down

Hello everyone,

Last week I spent numerous hours trimming down the size of the graphics and HTML files on the web site. I succeeded in keeping the content the same but reduced the size by 40%. Over the course of the weekend our site became active with several more search engines (this is something that was started weeks ago, I had no idea it would grow this fast). The end result is that we gained new subscribers and the web site is now once again over my bandwidth limit. The site has taken an average of 4672 file hits a day since the first of the month. My daily limit is 10,240k bytes a day transfer, the site is averaging 12,164k bytes a day. Yesterday the transfer was (after all my "optimizing") still over 11,000k bytes.

I'm in serious risk of losing this account (and my email address) if I don't get it under control. Until further notice, the pictorial is down - its eating 30% of the bandwidth.

I'm currently looking for inexpensive web space which allows FTP updating (sometimes I add daily to the site). If anyone can provide space temporarily we can have the pictorial back up until I find a new home for our site. Don't worry, book marks won't change as the home page would stay the same with links to the new site.

I spend some time with my providers customer support concerning my site usage. More bandwidth from them will cost me $19.95 a month.
I'm not willing to spending an additional twenty bucks a month for pictures.

Sorry if this inconveniences anyone.

Ken, "List Mom"


____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:55:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Steggell II
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Sticker
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 11:00 PM 4/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>On Wed, 2 Apr 1997 23:32:19 -0500 (EST) NameFrame aol.com writes:
>>We have all seen the "Piss on Ford sticker." Now I have created the
>>"Shit on
>>Chevy" sticker. If you would like to obtain a copy of this sticker,
>>send me
>>E-mail at NameFrame AOL.com. Include "sticker" as the subject.
>>
YES! i would like to have a shit on checy sticker for my 66 ford pickup....
please send one to

Tom S.
rt 2 box 46
Milton-Freewater Or.
97862

Thank you
tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 15:26:38 -0500
From: Gardner
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Kimo Owens wrote:
>
> Check out APE Chips for your truck, they might have one and they are on the
> net.
>
> ----------
> > From: Brad Miller
> > To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> > Subject: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions
> > Date: Monday, April 21, 1997 10:03 PM
> >
> > I'm new to this list . . . and quite frankly new to Ford's . . . but
> > anyway, I've got a few questions. My apologies if this has already been
> > covered, but I didn't want to smoke the web page area for the site as it
> > sounds like you all are being strangled in some wierd bit crazed way.
> >
> > My truck is a 1995 Ranger Splash with the 4.0L and a five speed manual.
> I
> > figure the usuals should help out -- free up the exhaust, stuff a K&N in
> > it, etc... Has anybody got any experience or tips that they could pass
> > along on this motor? I'd love to give it just a little more uuumph! I
> > *unfortunately* have the 3.08 gears . . . how difficult is it to change
> out
> > to the 3.55's? How bad will it hurt fuel economy (right now I'm avg.
> 21mpg
> > or so)? Has anyone had any luck with the Hypertech (or hype?) chips? Is
> > there any "watch out for" things that I should note?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > Bradley and Debbie Miller
> > mailto: bradndeb laurie.net
> > Partners in Internet Solutions - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.laurie.net/users/bradndeb
> > Member of the Midwest Shelby Dodge Automobile Club, Inc. -
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://users.aol.com/shelby2run/shelby.htm
> > 1995 Ford Splash (4.0L 5spd manual)
> > 1996 Eagle Vision (3.5L 4spd auto)
> > 1985 Dodge Daytona (2.2L T2 - 275 Horse - 5spd manual)
> > 1983 Shelby Charger (2.2L 40MM Webers - 5spd manual)
> >
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________________
> > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.comThere is a company called I'll show you performance they are on the net.
They have oversized throttle bodies, computerchips, borla exhaust, and underdrive pullies.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 15:43:30 -0500
From: PAYNK (Ken Payne) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Suppliers page
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Disposition: inline

Items on the suppliers pages should now print. You may need to hit the reload button in your browser for changes to take effect.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 15:48:13 -0500
From: PAYNK (Ken Payne) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: FE Block Identifiction -Reply
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Disposition: inline

>>> "Keith Srb" 04/22/97 01:45pm >>>
>O.K. I know there has been lot of talk about the differences between a 352,
>360, and 390 FE Engines. I have seen a lot said about how to determine the
>actual displacement of the engine. I have not seen anything that tells you
>how to id the block as "FE" or "Not an FE." Is there such a thing as a 3XX
>Block that is not a FE Block??

You'll "352" cast on FE blocks on the left side of the engine front.
Distributor is on the front left, water pump outlet on the top right, inlet on the bottom left. Left and right assume you're in the driver's seat facing forward.

>I am planning on tying to find an engine for my truck someday soon from a
>recycling yard. I guess I am going to go with a 360 FE or 390 FE,
>considering all of the good comments I have seen here, still a little unsure
>of my decision. I need to know how to look at a grease covered engine, look
>past all the grease, and make sure I am getting what I am paying for. Can
>anyone give me a quick checklist of items to look for???

>Several people who reply to a log of messages talk about checking things our
>in their books and then relying to a question. Would you guys list the
>authors and names of these books please??

Get the Haynes "How To Rebuild Your Big Block Ford". Chiltons has a 65-85 reference but its lacking quite a bit.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:12:19 +0000
From: Don Grossman To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1963 F100 Sales Figures
Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I keep getting confused about Flairside and Styleside. My 63 is, what I call a Stepside?

Let me see the light
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......

65 Ford F-150 4x4 (soon to be 72 Mustang) 63 Ford F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 16:34:38 +0000
From: "Jason C Wodack" To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Sticker
Message-Id: Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> >>We have all seen the "Piss on Ford sticker." Now I have created the
> >>"Shit on
> >>Chevy" sticker. If you would like to obtain a copy of this sticker,
> >>send me
> >>E-mail at NameFrame AOL.com. Include "sticker" as the subject.
Hey that sounds cool to me I think I'd like one of them.
Jason Wodack
141 Blackbird St.
N. Fond du Lac, WI 54937

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 19:28:02 -0400 (EDT) From: GEDAVE aol.com
To: fordtrucks ....


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