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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 58

Today's Topics:

Re: Chrome Wheels Rusting (ARRGH) [dherzog fv.stlcc.cc.mo.us (David He]
Re: restoration [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: restoration [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: Bearing Replacment - 360FE [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: driveshaft slack [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
1967 Factory 360 [Stuart Varner
1967 Factory 360 -Reply [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
Re: How to remove doors and tailgate [RL ]
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [Gregory Sherwin
new guy dumb question [stevefogarty ]
new guy dumb question -Reply [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
360FE Bearing Replacement [John Strauss
90 Bronco Mileage [Litemeup aol.com ]
FE Block Identifiction ["Keith Srb"
RE: Pictorial is down ["Keith Srb"
Re: Sticker [Tom Steggell II ]
Re: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions [Gardner ]
Suppliers page [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
FE Block Identifiction -Reply [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
Re: 1963 F100 Sales Figures [Don Grossman ]
Re: Sticker ["Jason C Wodack"
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [GEDAVE aol.com ]

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 10:54:16 -0500
From: dherzog fv.stlcc.cc.mo.us (David Herzog) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Chrome Wheels Rusting (ARRGH) Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 08:01 AM 4/22/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Thanks to all who responded to my last posting about my neighbor's F-100
>and to Ken for hosting this list.
>
>I have a problem with my truck. It has aftermarket chrome 5 spoke wheels
> >(Unique Brand) and they seem to have an abnormally bad rusting problem. The
>guy at the tire shop says to wax them but in 2 or 3 weeks the rust is back.
>
>Please help me and others as I am sure this is a common problem.
>
>M
>
>
>
> Primerica Financial Services > Yesterday is a cancelled check,
> Michael D. Waak
> "The Crusaders" > Today is cash, USE IT WISELY!!
> mikewaak jps.net
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
YES YES...steel wheels rust. You sure need to wax them often or you can try a clear coat spray. I have used a high quality clearcost lacqor paint.
Even then, every few month the little rust bunnys return..

I did find a solution -- aluminum wheels!! Hope it helps ^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* DAVID L. HERZOG Ph.D.,PROFESSOR OF BUSINESS & MANAGEMENT ST. LOUIS COMMUNITY COLLEGE AT FLORISSANT VALLEY DIVISION OF BUSINESS AND HUMAN SERVICES 3400 PERSHALL RD.
ST. LOUIS, MO 63615
(314) 595-2339
^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:23:55 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: restoration
> Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>At 11:28 PM 4/21/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>I'm a new subscriber and my father passed on his 1971 F-100 sport custom
>>to me when he purchased a 1990 f-250 (7.3L D) ext. cab. My '71 is in need
>>of some restoration and I am seeking some info. on prices for a dash pad,
>>arm rests, and steering wheel. I would also like to get the most power
>>out of the 352 in it for less bucks. Any info. would be welcomed.
>>
>Obsolete Ford, Dennis Carpenter, Carolina Classics and Melvins all
>sell the parts you need (on the web site).

Yes, Carpenter sells the stuff, but boy is it expensive!! ($400 for a dash pad). My suggestion is to look in the scraps if you can for this stuff just so you don't go bankrupt.

>As far as power, Edelbrock has a 4bbl intake/carb combo that might help.
>The best bang for the buck would be to find a 4bbl carb/intake at a
>junkyard (most likely off a car) and put it on. Headers help to.
>Cheapest I've seen headers were $99 in some mag for no-namers.

Ford made a nice dual plane 4bbl manifold for this engine in cast iron.
Make sure that you get the manifold valve-cover mating surface milled to the height of your heads, otherwise you'll be having oil seeping on you.

As for headers, I would recommend against them. The manifolds are virtually unrestrictive on these engines and the more you fiddle with them the worse.
Headers can be great but, esp with cheap ones, you'll end up with heat dissipation problems underhood and the contant stench of melting wires and hoses. Better to just put a 2 1/2" dual exhaust on the thing. This is easy and cheap, and even with my cheapo Thrush muffler conversion with the bigger (vs. 2"-2 1/4" pipe) made a huge difference in power.

>
>-Ken Payne
> 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
> List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
> Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe
> form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:26:46 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: restoration
> Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>What is the address to these web sites?
>
>Obsolete Ford
>Dennis Carpenter
>Carolina Classics
>Melvins


Ken meant their address is on OUR website.

btw I sent you the message about the $400 dash pad.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:35:20 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Bearing Replacment - 360FE Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Yes. I just did this about 6 months ago in my '91 Bronco. You will need
>the special tool to replace the rear main seal. It's a rope seal on this
> engine and there is a tool kind of like that chinese finger trap with a wire
>on it to pull the seal around.

That seal is a real bastard to get out, if it's the rope one. Here's what I had to do:

I took the bearing cap off and removed the bottom part of the seal. Then I soaked the rope seal in wd40 for an hour. Then I took some (about 6 inches) of that coily outer shell of a throttle cable (w/o the actuator cable inside) out of my scrap bin, stuck it in the end of my drill, and roto-rooted away. Several pieces of cable later, I was thru to the other side. I could then soak with more wd and poke with a decent-sized wire till all the rest of the rope came out. Like I said, it's a real bugger to remove if you don't take out the crank.

The new seal you'll put in is a rubber/steel gizmo in two pieces which just slides right in. Don't worry about installing the new one, it's very easy.
I would recommend the rubber-steel one (made by Fel-Pro) over the rope one anyday.

As this is one of the most ignorant jobs you will have to do on your truck, my sympathies go out to you.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:51:11 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: driveshaft slack
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>
>Does it make a metal to metal popping sound? (sort of like a hammer
>tapping your driveshaft) My 93 s-cab 4x4 5spd does this under load. (1st
>gear/reverse) I still am not sure exactly what it is yet. The first
>time I took the shaft out I put in new U-joints, then had it packed and
>balanced. It was quiet for 2 days and the noise started again. I
>consulted a shop and they did exactly what I did. Same problem. I think
>It may be a bad yoke/spline because the packed grease helped to quiet it
>down. It also could be tension on the center U-joint under load, the
>carrier bearing for the front shaft may letting the shaft move side to
>side too much.(creating a bind) I plan on asking about any TSB's when I
>have my parking brake recall done.
>

Although it's probably irrelevant, I have a 71 f250 4x4 and after a new clutch (needed one anyway) and 2 days of quitet I have a clunking chatter under load again. I finally figured it out as follows:

put my truck in 4by and see if the noise persists -- it didn't

crawl under the truck and try to shake everything in the drivetrain and
see what shakes/twists with play -- basically nothing did

kick the transfer case out of frustration -- bingo!!

Anyway, in my ancient and much different truck, the transfer case mounting rubbers are cracked and worn to the point of being useless, so the transfer case vibrates under load. You may wish to check if your transfer case is mounted properly, altho I'm unsure if on your model of truck it's integral with the transmission or separate.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:44:57 -0700
From: Stuart Varner To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1967 Factory 360
Message-id: Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

My Uncle George's truck was a 67 Custom ordered in the spring of 67 and arrived in April 1967......This was a 360...not a 352 as Ford motor company says it should be today. I know this truck came from the factory
with a 360 not the 352.

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:27:03 -0500
From: PAYNK (Ken Payne) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1967 Factory 360 -Reply
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Disposition: inline

>>> Stuart Varner 04/22/97 01:44pm >>>
>My Uncle George's truck was a 67 Custom ordered in the spring of 67 and
>arrived in April 1967......This was a 360...not a 352 as Ford motor
>company says it should be today. I know this truck came from the
>factory with a 360 not the 352.

What is the engine code for a 360 in 67? My engine code shows up as the same as a 360 (I believe its a Y not sure as neither the truck or the manual is around), but my guides don't show a Y code until 70 (71?).
I assumed the Y to be a 352 in 67. This doesn't make sense since the 352 has a different code for the year. Can anyone clarify this? I believe 360s were available but Chiltons doesn't (those "shop manuals" suck anyways). I sure hope someone out there has something better than my manuals - one of these days I'm going to bite the bullet and pick up a Ford shop manual reproduction.

I never can figure out why Ford produced the 360. All the power of a 352 and all the milage of a 390 (ie, the worst of both worlds).

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:30:17 -0500 (CDT) From: RL
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: How to remove doors and tailgate Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

I found some good doors and tailgate from a 70 Custom Sport in a local yard and am wanting to remove them. I was looking at my truck and assume to remove the doors I just undo to bolts in the cab. I'm not sure what all is to be removed from the tailgate.
Ryan

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:30:29 -0500 (EST) From: Gregory Sherwin To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
cc: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Tue, 22 Apr 1997 LanceWaldn aol.com wrote:

> A low restriction muffler will help to increase milage but to really see
> gains you need to install headers also.
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

I receently replaced the 351W in my '84 F150 4X4 with a remanufactured one after I blew the first one. I put performance headers and dual glasspacks on it and the new engine with this free flow exhaust will beat the pants off the old engine ahnds down. Headers are a great way to bolt on extra power. Plus they sound great too!

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:43:46 -0400
From: stevefogarty
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: new guy dumb question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit....

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