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Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 57

Today's Topics:

Re: 292 Y-8 mileage [Mathew Baker
RE:FE blocks [Ken Payne ]
Re: restoration [Ken Payne ]
RE:FE blocks [Ken Payne ]
RE: Misfire [Tim & Jolee Hann
Re: restoration ["Kimo Owens" ]
Re: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions ["Kimo Owens" ]
Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [Larry Wiandt ]
Bearing Replacment - 360FE [John Strauss
1963 F100 Sales Figures [John Strauss
Re: mileage ["Jason K. Schechner" ]
Re: driveshaft slack [llemmon pilot-ind.com ]
Chrome Wheels Rusting (ARRGH) [Michael & Linda Waak
Re: restoration -Reply [PAYNK (Ken Payne)
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [Michael & Linda Waak
Re: Help-bearing woes-'68 F100 360 [Steve & Rockette
Re: 292 Y-8 mileage [Steve & Rockette
Re: Muffler's [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
Re: mileage -Reply ["James A. Doty" ]
Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel [LanceWaldn aol.com ]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 00:10:58 -0600
From: Mathew Baker To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 292 Y-8 mileage
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Erik J. O'Daniel wrote:
>
> Can anyone here provide me with a good estimate on the mileage I'll
> get on a 292 in a 56F-100? I would love dearly to be able to drive
> this vehicle daily and I'd love it even more if a longer trip won't
> kill my wallet.
>
> Anyone have any good ideas for tricking this engine out a wee bit?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Erik O'Daniel
>
Be sure to use lead additive when you gas up to protect your valves.
To get better milage with the new crappy gas, advance your timing till the engine starts hard, then retard it about 5 degrees. Make sure your vacuum advance is in good shape, set the accelerator pump to the middle setting on the carburator, and gap your points and plugs (I use autolite or motorcraft, NEVER Champion) to .001 or .002 over spec. I also reccomend that you get a tachometer, and shift at around 3000 RPM. This is how mine is set up, and if I keep my foot out of the gas I can get 15 mpg. on mountain roads with a 4.56 gear ratio. We have a '56 Fairlane Town Sedan with an automatic. 312 Y-block and 3.55 gears that gets 20 mpg set up this way.

Mat Baker
'64 F-250 4X4 292 Thunderbird Y-block

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 04:45:04 -0400
From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE:FE blocks
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 12:50 AM 4/22/97 -0500, you wrote:
>> > >
>Without disassembling, how can I tell whether an FE block is a 352, 390, or 360?
>I have heard many different things from many different people. I now turn to the
>list to enhance my confusion.
>
>An excellent indicator is that little tag that is usually bolted onto the
>intake along with the coil. If you've got the original engine in that '67,
>then it's a 352. I wish I could help you more, but my understanding is that
>it gets tricky with FEs from here on out. For instance, many FE blocks are
>stamped "352" to designate that they were spouted off the FE line.
>Hopefully somebody else can provide more if this doesn't help.
>bigric mail.utexas.edu
>'68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 FE
>'66 VW Beetle 1300->1500
>

About the 352 in 67, I've heard several people say this. And my manuals say it too. However, the door-plate on my 67 says its a 360. I've had several people say it can be, that 360s weren't available until 68.
I've had the engine opened up more than once - its clearly a 360. Or was, now its a 390! Maybe I've got a late run 67? Going to send away to Ford for full production info on my VIN. Who knows, maybe I've got a very rare beast.

The thing about these FEs is that there really is no fool proof way to know exactly what you have without measuring the cylinder (you can find stroke though) - there are only good clues.

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 04:51:12 -0400
From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: restoration
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 11:28 PM 4/21/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm a new subscriber and my father passed on his 1971 F-100 sport custom
>to me when he purchased a 1990 f-250 (7.3L D) ext. cab. My '71 is in need
>of some restoration and I am seeking some info. on prices for a dash pad,
>arm rests, and steering wheel. I would also like to get the most power
>out of the 352 in it for less bucks. Any info. would be welcomed.
>

Obsolete Ford, Dennis Carpenter, Carolina Classics and Melvins all sell the parts you need (on the web site).

As far as power, Edelbrock has a 4bbl intake/carb combo that might help.
The best bang for the buck would be to find a 4bbl carb/intake at a junkyard (most likely off a car) and put it on. Headers help to.
Cheapest I've seen headers were $99 in some mag for no-namers.

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 05:37:27 -0400
From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE:FE blocks
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

-snip-
>
>About the 352 in 67, I've heard several people say this. And my manuals
>say it too. However, the door-plate on my 67 says its a 360. I've
>had several people say it can be, that 360s weren't available until 68.
>I've had the engine opened up more than once - its clearly a 360. Or was,
>now its a 390! Maybe I've got a late run 67? Going to send away to Ford
>for full production info on my VIN. Who knows, maybe I've got a very rare
>beast.
>
>The thing about these FEs is that there really is no fool proof way to
>know exactly what you have without measuring the cylinder (you can find
>stroke though) - there are only good clues.
>

Guys, please forgive my 4:30 am rantings (been sick). I couldn't stand it any longer and went outside and checked. The plate id says 352. I could have sworn it was 360. Anyways, I guess it really doesn't matter since its not the original engine (the LTD air cleaner gave it away).

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 03:14:36 -0700
From: Tim & Jolee Hann To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'" Subject: RE: Misfire
Message-ID: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC4ECB.51A92B20"

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC4ECB.51A92B20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

How many miles are on this truck? if you got over lets 60k you may need an O2 sensor

----------
From: Ryan Penner[SMTP:rpenner54 msn.com] Sent: Monday, April 21, 1997 5:22 AM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: Misfire



----------
From: Tim & Jolee Hann
Sent: Monday, April 21, 1997 12:37 AM
To: 'fordtrucks lofcom.com'
Subject: RE: Misfire


------ =_NextPart_000_01BC4DE4.A40981E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Is this an EFI engine, if so is there any check engine lights come on when it happens? You may need to flush the injectors.

No, the Check Engine Light does not come on. The ABS light stays on, but I know what is happening there.

ryan
91 F150


____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 07:11:53 -0500
From: "Kimo Owens"
To:
Subject: Re: restoration
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

What is the address to these web sites?

Obsolete Ford
Dennis Carpenter
Carolina Classics
Melvins

Kimo

----------
> From: Ken Payne
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: restoration
> Date: Tuesday, April 22, 1997 3:51 AM
>
> At 11:28 PM 4/21/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >I'm a new subscriber and my father passed on his 1971 F-100 sport custom
> >to me when he purchased a 1990 f-250 (7.3L D) ext. cab. My '71 is in need
> >of some restoration and I am seeking some info. on prices for a dash pad,
> >arm rests, and steering wheel. I would also like to get the most power
> >out of the 352 in it for less bucks. Any info. would be welcomed.
> >
>
> Obsolete Ford, Dennis Carpenter, Carolina Classics and Melvins all
> sell the parts you need (on the web site).
>
> As far as power, Edelbrock has a 4bbl intake/carb combo that might help.
> The best bang for the buck would be to find a 4bbl carb/intake at a
> junkyard (most likely off a car) and put it on. Headers help to.
> Cheapest I've seen headers were $99 in some mag for no-namers.
>
> -Ken Payne
> 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
> List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
> Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe
> form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 07:16:02 -0500
From: "Kimo Owens"
To:
Subject: Re: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Check out APE Chips for your truck, they might have one and they are on the net.

----------
> From: Brad Miller
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions
> Date: Monday, April 21, 1997 10:03 PM
>
> I'm new to this list . . . and quite frankly new to Ford's . . . but
> anyway, I've got a few questions. My apologies if this has already been
> covered, but I didn't want to smoke the web page area for the site as it
> sounds like you all are being strangled in some wierd bit crazed way.
>
> My truck is a 1995 Ranger Splash with the 4.0L and a five speed manual.
I
> figure the usuals should help out -- free up the exhaust, stuff a K&N in
> it, etc... Has anybody got any experience or tips that they could pass
> along on this motor? I'd love to give it just a little more uuumph! I
> *unfortunately* have the 3.08 gears . . . how difficult is it to change out
> to the 3.55's? How bad will it hurt fuel economy (right now I'm avg.
21mpg
> or so)? Has anyone had any luck with the Hypertech (or hype?) chips? Is
> there any "watch out for" things that I should note?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Bradley and Debbie Miller
> mailto: bradndeb laurie.net
> Partners in Internet Solutions - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.laurie.net/users/bradndeb
> Member of the Midwest Shelby Dodge Automobile Club, Inc. -
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://users.aol.com/shelby2run/shelby.htm
> 1995 Ford Splash (4.0L 5spd manual)
> 1996 Eagle Vision (3.5L 4spd auto)
> 1985 Dodge Daytona (2.2L T2 - 275 Horse - 5spd manual)
> 1983 Shelby Charger (2.2L 40MM Webers - 5spd manual)
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:43:19 -0400
From: Larry Wiandt
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Since everyone is talking about mufflers, I have wondered if I could change the muffler on my F350 and gain any fuel mileage. I am currently getting about 16 which, I feel, is not too bad for a 6200 lb. vehicle that can pull the way it does. But if I could help myself especially on trips it would be nice. Has anyone changed theirs?

Larry
1993 F350 Crew Cab 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:06:27 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Bearing Replacment - 360FE
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Well, the bearing knocks are beckoning me to action. I'm hoping to do the
>main bearings with the engine still in the truck if this is possible. What
>I would like to know from the experienced ones is:
>1) Can all the main bearings be replaced with the engine still in the truck

Yes. I just did this about 6 months ago in my '91 Bronco. You will need the special tool to replace the rear main seal. It's a rope seal on this engine and there is a tool kind of like that chinese finger trap with a wire on it to pull the seal around.

>2) Since I'm replacing all of the bearings, should I have the crank
>journals reground?

Depends on what you find. My 302 really should have had it done but I figured the new bearings were better than the old ones so I just put it together. I'll see how long it lasts but my engine also has great compression and vacuum and doesn't use ANY oil so I figured the little bit of money in parts was worth the risk. I bet I get another 50K out of it like this.

>3) If yes to #2, does the block need any machine work?

Not related to machining the crank unless you spun/stacked a bearing. But that hasn't happened yet or you would know it.

>4) How should I go about selecting the bearing size-should I Plastiguage
>what's in there, or what?

I plastigauged mine. If you are not machining the crank, I would recommend going a little loose on the bearings. I went with standard bearings on mine and the clearance was right about max allowable.

>5) If I want to install a 390 crank while I'm at this (if I pull the
>engine), what additional work do I need to do? (con-rod bearings, etc.)

Don't know.

>6) Since this work is still a month away and I'll probably put another
>1,200 miles on this in the meantime, should I switch to a heavier oil to
>prevent any damage? (30HD currently)

I don't know whether this will help but since it's getting hot now here in Texas it couldn't hurt I don't think.

>7) Is there any specific noise that a spinning bearing makes that is
>different from a knocking bearing that I should listen for?

Yeah - REALLY loud, incessant knocking. You'll know.

>I'd consider overhauling the motor for the trouble, but it's getting strong,
>even compression and strong vacuum.

I'd just put the bearings in there and see what you get. They really don't cost that much and if you get just 50K more I think it's worth it. You might consider pulling the engine to do the bearings, tho. On your truck it's not very hard to do and you can do a better job on the bearings that way. You will especially appreciate it when you try to do the rope seal on the rear. But, if you don't have the facilities for this you can do it in the truck without too much trouble.

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:31:43 -0500 (CDT) From: John Strauss To: Ford Trucks List Subject: 1963 F100 Sales Figures
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sales figures for the 1963 F100 pickups are as follows:

Platform 190

Platform 4x4 0

Chassis-Cab 6,686

Chassis-Cab 4x4 179

Flareside 35,963

Flareside 4x4 967

Styleside (integral) 40,535

Styleside 76,728

Styleside 4x4 2,809

Chassis Cowl 20

Chassis Windsheild 19

=======
Total 164,096


It's interesting to note that almost twice as many "mismatched" stylesides with seperate box/cab were sold than Unibodies in this year yet most publications I have make a point of telling you how rare this combo is.

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:36:29 -0400 (EDT) From: "Jason K. Schechner" To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: mileage
Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 21 Apr 1997, Kimo Owens wrote:

> Hey Will, I just noticed you have a Bronco. I would like to inform you of
> this great Mailing list called the BigBroncos. Just send an E-Mail to the
> below address and put subscribe in the body, I think. If it is wrong you
> should get a response on how to do it. It is from Off-Road.com web page and
> it is just a must. Let me know if you want any further info. Bronco's All
> the Way.
>
> Kimo
>
> majordomo off -road. com
>

To subscribe to the bigbronco list send "subscribe bigbroncos-digest" to the above address. Or "info bigbroncos" will get you the info sheet. Looking forward to having another 78/79 on the list!

-Jason
79 Bronco Ranger XLT (green)
79 Bronco Ranger XLT (blue)
95 Mustang GT - bone stock - hers
95 Mustang GT - K&N, 3.55's, timing - his

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 07:58:43 -0400 (EDT) From: llemmon pilot-ind.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: driveshaft slack
Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 21 Apr 1997, Gardner wrote:

> I hav ereplied to several of the questions but never had one of my own,
> but now I do! I have a 94 Ford Ranger Splash 4 cylinder 5 spd and I have
> what I think seems to be alot of slack in the drivetrain somewhere, I
> checked the universal joints and they were fine, next I was going to try
> the rear transmission mount. The problem is the it makes the same sound
> as when you have a bad universal joint when you shift or let of the gas
> sometimes.

Does it make a metal to metal popping sound? (sort of like a hammer tapping your driveshaft) My 93 s-cab 4x4 5spd does this under load. (1st gear/reverse) I still am not sure exactly what it is yet. The first time I took the shaft out I put in new U-joints, then had it packed and balanced. It was quiet for 2 days and the noise started again. I consulted a shop and they did exactly what I did. Same problem. I think It may be a bad yoke/spline because the packed grease helped to quiet it down. It also could be tension on the center U-joint under load, the carrier bearing for the front shaft may letting the shaft move side to side too much.(creating a bind) I plan on asking about any TSB's when I have my parking brake recall done.

Lee

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I bought an American truck because I am an American / You want how much
to redo my mazda 5spd?!#$$$$$ HEY Ford, If you are going to charge
these prices for a truck, at least build the drivetrain to handle
towing a jet ski.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:01:20 -0800
From: Michael & Linda Waak To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Chrome Wheels Rusting (ARRGH)
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Thanks to all who responded to my last posting about my neighbor's F-100 and to Ken for hosting this list.

I have a problem with my truck. It has aftermarket chrome 5 spoke wheels (Unique Brand) and they seem to have an abnormally bad rusting problem. The guy at the tire shop says to wax them but in 2 or 3 weeks the rust is back.

Please help me and others as I am sure this is a common problem.

M



Primerica Financial Services > Yesterday is a cancelled check,
Michael D. Waak
"The Crusaders" > Today is cash, USE IT WISELY!!
mikewaak jps.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 10:54:52 -0500
From: PAYNK (Ken Payne) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: restoration -Reply
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Disposition: inline

I don't have their web sites. What we do have is a page on the Ford Trucks Enthusiasts Web site that has the company names, addresses, and phone numbers.

Point your browser to:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks
and click on the parts suppliers link (or spark plug) and then click on North America on the map.


>>> "Kimo Owens" 04/22/97 07:11am >>> What is the address to these web sites?

Obsolete Ford
Dennis Carpenter
Carolina Classics
Melvins

Kimo

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:07:25 -0800
From: Michael & Linda Waak To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Mufflers and the 7.3L Diesel Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Since everyone is talking about mufflers, I have wondered if I could change
>the muffler on my F350 and gain any fuel mileage. I am currently getting
>about 16 which, I feel, is not too bad for a 6200 lb. vehicle that can pull
>the way it does. But if I could help myself especially on trips it would
>be nice. Has anyone changed theirs?
>
>Larry
>1993 F350 Crew Cab 4x4
>

Larry,

I have only three words, Banks Power Pack.

It is a good combo of a modified air intake and free flow exhaust system.

M

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:08:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve & Rockette To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Help-bearing woes-'68 F100 360 Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 12:03 AM 22/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, the bearing knocks are beckoning me to action. I'm hoping to do the
>main bearings with the engine still in the truck if this is possible. What
>I would like to know from the experienced ones is:
>1) Can all the main bearings be replaced with the engine still in the truck

Yes they can, but...

>2) Since I'm replacing all of the bearings, should I have the crank
>journals reground?

Yes you should, but...

>3) If yes to #2, does the block need any machine work?

It should be removed and cleaned properly, measured for all correct tolerances.

>4) How should I go about selecting the bearing size-should I Plastiguage
>what's in there, or what?

The machineshop where you take it should be able to set you up with all the correct bearings.

>5) If I want to install a 390 crank while I'm at this (if I pull the
>engine), what additional work do I need to do? (con-rod bearings, etc.)

You will need 390 rods and pistons,

>6) Since this work is still a month away and I'll probably put another
>1,200 miles on this in the meantime, should I switch to a heavier oil to
>prevent any damage? (30HD currently)

Too late for heavier oil, 90wt won't help at this stage...

>7) Is there any specific noise that a spinning bearing makes that is
>different from a knocking bearing that I should listen for?

When the bearing spins it will get really quiet in a hurry, the motor will seize.

>I'd consider overhauling the motor for the trouble, but it's getting strong,
>even compression and strong vacuum.

You are going to need a new crank, I'm sorry to have to tell you this, but when an engine starts to knock, it takes parts out in a hurry, if I were you I'd be looking for a core motor from your friendly local wrecking yard. Just make sure the core motor comes from a truck, not a car, as the cars have lighter duty parts in them or try to find a GT390 which have the better heads and HD rods.


Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:08:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve & Rockette To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 292 Y-8 mileage
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 10:13 PM 21/4/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Can anyone here provide me with a good estimate on the mileage I'll
>get on a 292 in a 56F-100? I would love dearly to be able to drive
>this vehicle daily and I'd love it even more if a longer trip won't
>kill my wallet.

I drove my '63 F100 292 3speed, about 190 miles, all highway, 65-80mph and got 13 or so mpg, around town it gets about 10 mpg...
It is my daily driver.

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:13:21 -0400 (EDT) From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Muffler's
Message-ID:

Flowmasters sound great but if you have a problem with rust in your area you need a stainless steel muffler like the Borla.

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:21:44 -0700
From: "James A. Doty"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: mileage -Reply
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Before you get to the bearings, I'd do a complete tune-up,
>oil change, etc. Make sure you set the timing and idle
>mixture correctly. You might want to get a carb rebuild
>kit also. Ask us if you need any help with any of this.

There's a great mechanic three blocks from my house who installed my new tranny and heater core last Fall. I can take it to him to have the tune-up done. I'll ask him to check the carb while he's at it.

The carb needs adjustment anyway. The high idle is so high that it sounds like the engine's going to leap out of the hood. I always have to kick it down before it's had a chance to warm up.

I've faithfully changed the oil and filter every three months since I bought the van and all the other fluids seem fine as well.

BTW:

There are no fluid leaks at all under this 19 year old van. I'm very impressed.

I bought a '75 Ford E-150 Custom in '79. It had a 351W in it and consistantly got 12mpg so I'm sure we can bring this one up a little.....


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