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Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 56

Today's Topics:

Which engine. [nat ]
Re: FE blocks ["Larry Coffman"
FE Blocks again [Drew Beatty
I may be out of commission. [Ken Payne ]
new member ["Lee Hardy" ]
Re: FE blocks [Daver ]
Re: Holley Carb [Daver ]
Re: FE blocks [Daver ]
Re: Muffler's [dherzog fv.stlcc.cc.mo.us (David He]
re: 47 Paint [JRFiero aol.com ]
Re: 352 HIPO connecting rods [Daver ]
Tires Choice for '80 F150 [bobr ]
Re: Holley Carb [JIM HURD ]
1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions [bradndeb laurie.net (Brad Miller) ]
Re: '77 F-150 Ranger [JIM HURD ]
292 Y-8 mileage ["Erik J. O'Daniel"
Re: Tires Choice for '80 F150 ["Jason C Wodack"
restoration [Karl Lawrence Haertel
Help-bearing woes-'68 F100 360 [bigric mail.utexas.edu (Richard Che]
Re: Holley Carb [hippy11 mail.midohio.net ]
RE:FE blocks [bigric mail.utexas.edu (Richard Che]
Re: Holley Carb [Steve & Rockette
Re: restoration [Steve & Rockette


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:46:43 +1000
From: nat
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Which engine.
Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi there,

I am just a new reader to this group, and just wandering if you people out there could give me some advice.

I have a '69 Falcon ute/truck and its got a 302 cleveland. It gets around say 1litre of fuel for every 4-5 miles...and thats with the motor just been tuned...it was shocking before.

The motor is tired, and I need something new, what would be better, the 351 windsor or cleveland. What about the big blocks like the 429.

Can some one write me the fuel consumption/milage for the 351 W/C - 429 motors.

nat

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 19:50:12 -0400
From: "Larry Coffman" To:
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I just bought a 66 F100 myself back in Oct. The owners manual calls the air pump a "Thermactor" , so yes it could be stock. the point gap is 0.017, timing with the pump is top dead center.

Larry Coffman
coffman defnet.com
66 F-100
96 Explorer

----------
> From: Michael & Linda Waak
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: FE blocks
> Date: Monday, April 21, 1997 2:36 AM
>
>
> Mega Ditto's fellow Fordnatics, I'm a long time listener but a first time
> caller.
>
> I have found this group to be very informative and inhabited by adults
> (kids don't belong on usenet or ML's)
>
> My neighbor just bought a 66' F100 for 200 bucks and we spent the last week
> getting the Ol' Girl going again, but I'm confused because it has a smog
> pump on it with the tubes running into the heads. He swears that it's the
> original motor but I think it must be a later model (pre '75 because it
> doesn't have the same set-up as my F-250 Hi Boy). If anyone can tell me
> when they started to put smog pumps on FE series motors we might be able to
> at least narrow it down a little.
>
> Also I was wondering if anyone has the '66 tune-up specs as the it appears
> to have the original distributor (points).
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> M
>
>
>
>
>
> Primerica Financial Services > Yesterday is a cancelled check,
> Michael D. Waak
> "The Crusaders" > Today is cash, USE IT WISELY!!
> mikewaak jps.net
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: 21 Apr 97 20:20:44 EDT
From: Drew Beatty To: "'Ford Trucks'" Subject: FE Blocks again
Message-ID:

It appears that I have asked one of those big questions. Excellent. Here's all the answers I have heard from around here.

I spoke to a local parts recycler, and they told me that the only difference in the motors is the crank and the bore (a no brainer). Engine block casting ##'s might not tell the specific displacement, since something may have been changed over the years, and the block is the same for all 3 displacements. This engine does have a rebuild on it. These ##'s will tell what it left the factory as 30 years ago, however. They told me that a 352 and a 360 have a half moon cut in the crank flange where the flywheel bolts up. They said a 390 crank is totally round. Mine has the half moon cut.

I spoke to a guy who has been racing Fords up Pikes Peak for years, and he told me that there is a casting number on the 1st throw of the crankshaft. 2A designates 390, 2B or 2AA designates 360, and he didn't know what the 352 has.
Mine has no casting number (I pulled the pan to change the dreaded FE rear main seal and the leak turned out to be somewhere else) so therefore I assume that I have the 352.

I can tell what was original by running the VIN ## through the Ford dealer. They say 352, and I am about 90% convinced at this point that they are right, as I think everything is original in the beast. To my knowledge the 360 didn't come out until the 70's "energy crisis" (whatever happened to that???) when Ford was trying to combine fuel economy with big block power. And, yes, from what I have read 1967 was the last year of the 352.

So, this, combined with what you all have answered, is what I know. Thanks for all the help. I'll try to get the block casting ##'s and run them by those who can decode them. I'll also run them by Ford to see if it's the original motor.

DC Beatty
1967 F100
1974 Maverick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 20:47:03 -0400
From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: I may be out of commission.
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I've been fighting off a bad sinus infection since Thursday, looks like I'm losing. Going to the Dr. in the morning. I may be out of commission the rest of the evening and a good portion of tomorrow.

Sorry to those who send private email concerning list matters or other topics - it'll have to wait. Damn, my new wheels just showed up on the doorstep today. I'm going to go crazy waiting to put them on.

Later,
Ken "Sick List Mom"

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 20:59:47 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
To:
Subject: new member
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi gang: just a note to tell you about myself. My name is lee hardy and i love Ford trucks. I am particularly fond of 35 thru 56. I am a 1936 model myself, so have grown up working on, building and racing flathead engines for many years. I have four barns full of parts for these trucks, and hopfully, can but, sell or swap what I need for what you need. I am willing to share any knowledge I have on these trucks so you can complete your restoration as quickly and cheaply as possible. I am in contact with many suppliers for parts, both speed and stock, so please don't hesitate to call if I can be of any help. My phone number in Connecticut is (860)774 7327 EST. This is only a hobby with me, but is more of an obsession according to my wife. Looking forward to talking with you either on email or phone. I am new to computors (as shown by my mistakenly shouted message of a few days ago), but will get better. thanks, Lee

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 20:31:47 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Michael & Linda Waak wrote:

> Also I was wondering if anyone has the '66 tune-up specs as the it appears
> to have the original distributor (points).
>

If it has a Smog pump it is probably no older than 72 (I believe that is when the state of California began requiring them). I personally threw the points setup away the Mallory Unilite is far supperior, more acurate and not as worn. If he goes to the Unilite tell him to get the fully mechanical distributor it's one less place for vacuum that doesn't work. Use the hot plug (if the engine is the stock veriety) and run 6 to 8 BTDC. Put a vacuum gauge on it on the manifold tree (probably located on the rear passenger side) then carfully screw the (driver first) mixture screw in until the engine begins to miss then screw it out (watching the vacuum gauge) until the needal is at it's smothest point then repeat this on the other side. When the mixture is right the vacuum should read a very steady 13 to 14 inches; if not, adjust the rest out by slowly advancing the distributor. it is less important to get 13 to 14 inches than it is the see the needle rock solid. Also note if you exceed 10 advance (BTDC) you m
ust increase the richness of the mixture put the light on it(important) do not adjust by ear you are not use to this particular engine.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 20:47:33 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Holley Carb
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Gerald and Lisa Hoel wrote:
>
> We have a Holley 1860/4160 4 barrel carb that came on our'77 F-150 (351M
> .060 over). We purchased a rebuild kit but we were not able to fix a
> leak at the secondary butterfly shaft. We've been informed by our local

I'd replace it with a New model 600 CFM (vacuum secondaries) built for a Ford. This carb is a good dependable stock replacment that comes with the Kickdown.

> know-it-all that the carb is worn out and we just need to replace it
> (with an 850 no less). We would greatly appreciate the opinions of some

To much for a stock motor. You can over carberate and wash the rings.

> better informed individuals. Also, could this be the cause of our newly
> rebuilt and otherwise smooth running engine just shutting off?

Yes it will. If the carb is leaching air from around the butterfly shaft it is the same as running with a vacuum leak of fenominal perporsions. (Please no flames here) the quadrajunk on Chevy's had this problem I used to bush them out for people (made lots of cash) this could be done to yours but You would be better off with the carb I suggested above.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 21:06:12 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE blocks
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> I've heard that *some* 390 truck engines and/or replacement blocks have
> enough meat to open up to 428 bore. (anyone got a 428 crank laying around? :-)
> Is this true? Anyone know how to I.D. these blocks?
>

According to my books the 352 and 390 FE's can go 4.13 bore. The 428 crank can be found but why? bore the thing to 4.13 and find a 427 crank (this combo builds a 406). The 427 crank is basicly identical to the 390 except they are either nodular iron or forged steel and can be modified to rev in excess of 8000 RPM. Big bore short stroke = fast.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 21:01:28 -0500
From: dherzog fv.stlcc.cc.mo.us (David Herzog) To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Muffler's
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 05:30 PM 4/19/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a 92 f-150 with a 302 and while washing it noticed some holes in my
>muffler. I would like some opinions on what kind to get to replace it. Do
>any of them add power or make it sound cool (not loud though)etc?
>
>
>Wendell Holmquist
>whmquist icontrol.net
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>I have a 94 F-150 with a 302 V8. I replaced the exhaust at "MADHATTER" muffler shop, and I am certain that other shops in your area could do the same.

The glass pack muffler has 1 inlet and 2 outlets. They ran twin tail pipes out the rear (one on each side of the rear bumper) and welded on chrome tips. The result was a grat sound (healthy) without a lot of noise. The cost was $139!!
^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* DAVID L. HERZOG Ph.D.,PROFESSOR OF BUSINESS & MANAGEMENT ST. LOUIS COMMUNITY COLLEGE AT FLORISSANT VALLEY DIVISION OF BUSINESS AND HUMAN SERVICES 3400 PERSHALL RD.
ST. LOUIS, MO 63615
(314) 595-2339
^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 22:12:57 -0400 (EDT) From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
cc: jhazewinkel exodus.valpo.edu
Subject: re: 47 Paint
Message-ID:

First attempt at sending to a mailing list, and I blew it, partially by sending it only to the originator. Anyway, here's a post for anyone else who might be interested.

Jeff -
I just joined this mailing list, and in looking through the archives, I saw your mail re 47 paint. I have a "Catalog of Ford Truck ID Numbers 1946-1972" available from Classis Motorbooks, which has the following info about paint in the 1947 pages.
"The paint color code did not appear on the truck until later years. To aid restorers, the following Ford paint order numbers are provided.
Sedan Delivery
(I'm leaving these out -JR)
Trucks
Greenfield Green M-3990
Medium Luster Black M-1722
Light Moonstone Gray M-3981
Modern Blue M-3987
Vermillion M-1722"

This source does NOT show two greens in 47, but it does in 46.
Hope this helps. Poke around up under the dash to see the original color.
The book is not infallible, but it's the best I have at hand.
Someone mentioned a plate under the hood - my '51 has a patent number plate on the firewall under the hood, about in front of the glovebox. It has the serial number, but no other ID info. Other patent plates I've seen don't even have the serial number. The production plate on a 51 (and the book says in the 47s, also) should be on the inside of the glovebox door, but mine's gone. On a 47, the book says the serail number and the engine number are the same, and its stamped on the clutch housing (!) and is visible when the transmission cover is removed. There's another post I saw in the archives that says Ford will send you a build sheet if you provide the serial number.
Their email is cacinfo ford.com.

Jonas
recently acquired
'51 F1
(with fender skirts!)
VA plates FLTHD51

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 21:27:08 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 352 HIPO connecting rods
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Stuart Varner wrote:
>
> Daver,
>
> This is a very interesting proposal, putting 352 HiPo connecting rods
> in the 360 ......I have been wrestling with the idea of going with
> 390 hipo internals, 390 GT heads, aluminum intake, 4 bbl to help my 360
> have more punch....too costly so it is not an option........I never
> thought of
> going with 352 internals. Do you have experience with this? What all
> would need to be done to the heads and other internal components? I
> would be interesting in hearing the results of this as I will be
> rebuilding my
> 360 this summer(maybe fall). Thanks. NUKE GM!
>
> STU

The 352 & 360's use the same rods the difference being the HiPro 352's had beefed up beams and would survive short bouts of up to 7000 RPM (not sustained). If you are souping a 360 up Definatly go to the 352 rods (part number C1AZ-6200-C)

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 22:28:51 -0400
From: bobr
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Tires Choice for '80 F150
Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I am also a new reader of the group and am enjoying reading the messages very much. I am in the market for a set of tires for my recently purchased 1980 F-150 and am wondering if I could get some advice on size, brand, and model. The truck has 15"x5.5" wheel rims and came with 215R75 15" tires originally. It now has P225R75 15" tires. It has the 6 cylinder engine (4.9L}, 4 speed manual overdrive, the 2.75 axle ratio, GVW 5450. Most of my driving will be around town and on the highway.
Thanks in advance. Bob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 22:58:51 -0500 (EST) From: JIM HURD To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Holley Carb
Message-id: Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Jerry & Lisa,

Why is your Holly leaking? Is the housing cracked? Or is the rear float not shutting off the fuel flow? Are the throttle shafts worn to the point that the carb is not worth saving? (Throttle shafts can be repaired with bushings.)

Does your carb have a power valve on the secondary side? IF so, it may be ruptured and leaking the fuel.

Any one else?

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 22:03:23 -0500
From: bradndeb laurie.net (Brad Miller) To:
Subject: 1995 Ford Ranger 4.0L Questions Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'm new to this list . . . and quite frankly new to Ford's . . . but anyway, I've got a few questions. My apologies if this has already been covered, but I didn't want to smoke the web page area for the site as it sounds like you all are being strangled in some wierd bit crazed way.

My truck is a 1995 Ranger Splash with the 4.0L and a five speed manual. I figure the usuals should help out -- free up the exhaust, stuff a K&N in it, etc... Has anybody got any experience or tips that they could pass along on this motor? I'd love to give it just a little more uuumph! I *unfortunately* have the 3.08 gears . . . how difficult is it to change out to the 3.55's? How bad will it hurt fuel economy (right now I'm avg. 21mpg or so)? Has anyone had any luck with the Hypertech (or hype?) chips? Is there any "watch out for" things that I should note?

Thanks in advance!

Bradley and Debbie Miller
mailto: bradndeb laurie.net
Partners in Internet Solutions - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.laurie.net/users/bradndeb Member of the Midwest Shelby Dodge Automobile Club, Inc. - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://users.aol.com/shelby2run/shelby.htm 1995 Ford Splash (4.0L 5spd manual)
1996 Eagle Vision (3.5L 4spd auto)
1985 Dodge Daytona (2.2L T2 - 275 Horse - 5spd manual) 1983 Shelby Charger (2.2L 40MM Webers - 5spd manual)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 23:28:54 -0500 (EST) From: JIM HURD To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '77 F-150 Ranger
Message-id: Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

J & L,

Don't take this for gospel, as I am using my '79 Truck manual, but: W.B. 117 is a 117" Wheel base
F14 is a F-150 4x4
Body EA3 E is the trim code (material and seat type) (no "E' in '79)
A is the trim color code (A was black in '79)
3 is the body type code (3 was a flareside pick-up in '79) Tran G G is transmission type (G was automatic in '79) Axle 16J 16 is a rear axle code (3.50:1 & 3750# capacity in '79)
J is front axle code (indicates adjustable steering, power
steering, axle capacity, and, optionaly the roll bar. I
have no "J" code listed in '79).

Hope that gets you started.

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 22:13:49 +0000
From: "Erik J. O'Daniel" To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: 292 Y-8 mileage
Message-ID:

Can anyone here provide me with a good estimate on the mileage I'll get on a 292 in a 56F-100? I would love dearly to be able to drive this vehicle daily and I'd love it even more if a longer trip won't kill my wallet.

Anyone have any good ideas for tricking this engine out a wee bit?

Thanks.

Erik O'Daniel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 23:13:47 +0000
From: "Jason C Wodack" To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Tires Choice for '80 F150
Message-Id: Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> I am also a new reader of the group and am enjoying reading the messages
> very much. I am in the market for a set of tires for my recently
> purchased 1980 F-150 and am wondering if I could get some advice on
> size, brand, and model. The truck has 15"x5.5" wheel rims and came with
> 215R75 15" tires originally. It now has P225R75 15" tires. It has the 6
> cylinder engine (4.9L}, 4 speed manual overdrive, the 2.75 axle ratio,
> GVW 5450. Most of my driving will be around town and on the highway.
> Thanks in advance. Bob


Bob,
I would probably suggest the P225/75R15, because of the extra width on the tred this ought to give you a little bit better traction in dry weather, howerver it doesn't help much at all in the wet weather.
As for the brand and model I worked at a goodyear store and goodyear's are what I know. The Wrangler aquatred's are both quiet , are good tires for wet weather, these are gonna give you that little extra traction on the dry and improve wet traction a fair deal too. another suggestion is the wrangler RT/S the RT/S is a good choice for hauling loads, and come in a few load ranges(not sure which I don't have a list with me) they are not quite as quiet as the aquatreds but the hauling aspect is their main advantage.

My 2c
Jason Wodack
'84 Bronco II

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 23:28:53 -0500 (CDT) From: Karl Lawrence Haertel To: ford trucks Subject: restoration
Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

I'm a new subscriber and my father passed on his 1971 F-100 sport custom to me when he purchased a 1990 f-250 (7.3L D) ext. cab. My '71 is in need of some restoration and I am seeking some info. on prices for a dash pad, arm rests, and steering wheel. I would also like to get the most power out of the 352 in it for less bucks. Any info. would be welcomed.

Thanks,
Karl
71 f-100 sport custom
90 Taurus

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 00:03:06 -0500 (CDT) From: bigric mail.utexas.edu (Richard Cherico) To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Help-bearing woes-'68 F100 360 Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Well, the bearing knocks are beckoning me to action. I'm hoping to do the main bearings with the engine still in the truck if this is possible. What I would like to know from the experienced ones is: 1) Can all the main bearings be replaced with the engine still in the truck 2) Since I'm replacing all of the bearings, should I have the crank journals reground?
3) If yes to #2, does the block need any machine work?
4) How should I go about selecting the bearing size-should I Plastiguage what's in there, or what?
5) If I want to install a 390 crank while I'm at this (if I pull the engine), what additional work do I need to do? (con-rod bearings, etc.) 6) Since this work is still a month away and I'll probably put another 1,200 miles on this in the meantime, should I switch to a heavier oil to prevent any damage? (30HD currently)
7) Is there any specific noise that a spinning bearing makes that is different from a knocking bearing that I should listen for?
I'd consider overhauling the motor for the trouble, but it's getting strong, even compression and strong vacuum.
I really appreciate any help on this. I know it's a lot of questions, but I'm sure that somebody with a little experience shouldn't have any problems with this. Thanks in advance for any and all help.
bigric mail.utexas.edu
'68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 FE '66 VW Beetle 1300->1500

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 01:02:31 +0000
From: hippy11 mail.midohio.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Holley Carb
Message-Id: Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> Organization: L.O.F. Communications
> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 16:06:29 -0400
> To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
> From: Gerald and Lisa Hoel
> Subject: Holley Carb
> Reply-to: fordtrucks lofcom.com

> We have a Holley 1860/4160 4 barrel carb that came on our'77 F-150 (351M
> .060 over). We purchased a rebuild kit but we were not able to fix a
> leak at the secondary butterfly shaft. We've been informed by our local
> know-it-all that the carb is worn out and we just need to replace it
> (with an 850 no less). We would greatly appreciate the opinions of some
> better informed individuals. Also, could this be the cause of our newly
> rebuilt and otherwise smooth running engine just shutting off?
>
> Thanks any and all FordTruck lovers!!
>
> Jerry & Lisa
>
> jerry and lisa,
i have seen fomoco carbs "crack" from heat and leak fuel or vacuum. i have only seen 2 holleys w/ this type of problem.
i rebuild alot of carbs and have tried just about everything.
i would try to find a salvage yard carb and rebuild one from the two.
but w/out seeing what your carb looks like.....................
just my opinion...
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 00:50:06 -0500 (CDT) From: bigric mail.utexas.edu (Richard Cherico) To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: RE:FE blocks
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> > >
Without disassembling, how can I tell whether an FE block is a 352, 390, or 360?
I have heard many different things from many different people. I now turn to the list to enhance my confusion.

An excellent indicator is that little tag that is usually bolted onto the intake along with the coil. If you've got the original engine in that '67, then it's a 352. I wish I could help you more, but my understanding is that it gets tricky with FEs from here on out. For instance, many FE blocks are stamped "352" to designate that they were spouted off the FE line.
Hopefully somebody else can provide more if this doesn't help.
bigric mail.utexas.edu
'68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 FE '66 VW Beetle 1300->1500

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Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 23:00:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve & Rockette To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Holley Carb
Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 08:47 PM 21/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Gerald and Lisa Hoel wrote:

>> could this be the cause of our newly
>> rebuilt and otherwise smooth running engine just shutting off?

Try replacing the electronic ignition module, it heats up and will shut the motor off at any time, I've had this happen on one of my cars, it's kind of annoying...

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox

....


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