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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 10:30:08 -0400 (EDT) To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
From: digest-proc lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0042
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Volume 97 Number 0042 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

Re: looking for parts
Re: 1966 Ford F100 with 230/6, want V-8. List lurker steps forward...
Re: swap 302efi>351HOefi
Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions
Charging Problem
Re: Bad Cab Mounts
Re: swap 302efi>351HOefi
Electric window prob solved
Re: 1/2 ton to 1 ton alxe conversion
GADGETS
Leaking Rear Main Seal?
Re: Bad Cab Mounts
wet weather engine probs
magazines for 56Ford
Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions
Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions
Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions
Re: wet weather engine probs
Re: Leaking Rear Main Seal?
Re: wet weather engine probs
Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions
Re: wet weather engine probs
Re: Charging Problem
Re: wet weather engine probs
Thanks
Re: Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.
Re: Powerstroke Water in Fuel Light


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

--------------------------------------------------

>From duckdon pacific.net Fri Apr 11 00:02:55 1997 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: looking for parts
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Thanks y'all for the help with the brake parts! I was able to find a fitting at another parts house that will take the line down to 3/16 which is what I have the truck set up with. Going from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton with the twin piston calipers adds lots of stopping power.

I'll keep the numbers of the places you came up with for future ref.

Thanks
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......

65 Ford F-150 4x4 (soon to be 72 Mustang) 63 Ford F-250 4x4


------------------------------
>From duckdon pacific.net Fri Apr 11 00:18:38 1997 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: 1966 Ford F100 with 230/6, want V-8. List lurker steps forward...
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

If you are going to do some kind of engine swap in you truck and are thinking FE go with the 390 and like was stated before you are going to get the same mileage as the 352 just more power. I have a 390 in my 63 and it is plenty.. a little over carbed (850 dbl pump) big hole just off idle but will take a 5400lb truck to 70mph before you know it. I am going to fix the carb thing when I replace the intake (-:


laters
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......

65 Ford F-150 4x4 (soon to be 72 Mustang) 63 Ford F-250 4x4


------------------------------
>From MLawing616 aol.com Fri Apr 11 00:27:47 1997 From: MLawing616 aol.com
Subject: Re: swap 302efi>351HOefi
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

have a 91E250 w/302EFI. also have a 95 lightining roll-over with 18,000 miles and drive train was not damaged in wreck,Question is: what problems will I have installing the HO351 and automatic trans in my 91E250 v8 w/auto-overdrive.


------------------------------
>From duckdon pacific.net Fri Apr 11 00:38:03 1997 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> >Hi everyone,
> > Help! I am the proud new owner of a 1965 F-250 with a 390 and 4spd. The
> >basic maint. has been kept up as the previous family has had it for 20+
> >years. A few of the things I needed to know;
> > Which plug#s work best
>
> I use Motorcraft.

I just had to run out and check real quick Autolite 24's also

>
> > Are there rubber valve cover gaskets avail. for it?
>
> Yes.

Da parts house

>
> > Where are the ID#s stamped
>
> Intake will sometimes have one, its real easy to fool judges with this
> engine since it's not stamped on the block. Hey, anyone know if there
> are exceptions to this?
>
> > Which oilfilter (Fram} does it take
>
> The one equiv to a F1, FLA1, LA1, etc.
>
> > It has 16.5" split rims now, are aftermarket 1 pc. 15" rims avail.?
>
> Yes, plenty of them. Summit carries alot.

For everyones safety ditch the split rims. For 8 lug 15" wheels you might have to have some made by a wheel shop and if you ever upgrade to disk brakes you will have fitment problems. I just put on an old set of bias plys and they have a bad case of the square tire syndrome.(flat on one side) (yes with AIR in them)
>
> > Is it best to stick with Motorcraft tune up parts or will NAPN do?
>
> I use Motorcraft, but for standard usage it really won't matter (my
> opinion only).
>
> >
> > That should do it for now, I pick up the truck next Wed. and I want to be
> >ready.
> > Thanks everybody and Ken
> >
> > Charlie Sr. P.S. Hey Ken What does the FE
> >stand for in 390FE?
>
> Ford/Edsel. As the name implies, it was originally designed for the Edsel.
> The engine outlived the car by two decades.
>
> -Ken Payne
> 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
> List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
> Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe
> form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......

65 Ford F-150 4x4 (soon to be 72 Mustang) 63 Ford F-250 4x4


------------------------------
>From PonyTom aol.com Fri Apr 11 08:00:27 1997 From: PonyTom aol.com
Subject: Charging Problem
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Fordtrucker's,

Got Jesus' note about a charging problem.
The only thing you didn't mention was the Voltage regulator....check it out. also, a good way to check a generator is to remove the fan belt, , disconnect the armature wire...the big one, and jump directly to the battery the armature connection on the generator. It should run like a motor. On the early Voltage Regulators it is possible to remove the cover, and look at the contacts....wiring too. You can clean the contacts with a small tool called a flexstone...just a high falutin' emery board.
Good Luck

Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
'78 E-350


------------------------------
>From hippy11 mail.midohio.net Fri Apr 11 09:43:32 1997 From: hippy11 mail.midohio.net
Subject: Re: Bad Cab Mounts
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

the mounts arent that hard to replace, problem is the floor boards surrounding them are almost always in need of fabrication..most after market sheet metal dealers can get the mounts...
w/ a little sheet metal and a can of rustproofing you can do IT!


------------------------------
>From hippy11 mail.midohio.net Fri Apr 11 09:43:37 1997 From: hippy11 mail.midohio.net
Subject: Re: swap 302efi>351HOefi
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

other than the wiring harness....????
should bolt right in.....front yoke might be different


------------------------------
>From wrd pacbell.net Fri Apr 11 10:10:39 1997 From: wrd pacbell.net
Subject: Electric window prob solved
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Thanks to everyone who offered solutions to my driver's side electric window failure on my '91 F-150. If your window ever fails, don't take it to the dealer.....fix it yourself! It is one of the easiest jobs I've done on the truck.

The dealer wanted close to $300 and all day in the shop. I did it for $119 (new motor) and 30 minutes of time.

Simply remove your door trim. The door lock/window switch comes out with a little thumb pressure. Three screws on the back of the switch will get the face plate off so you can completely remove it from the door trim. Yes, the electric motor is in a place where you can not remove it easily unless you break out your drill motor and a 1" or bigger metal hole saw. I suppose you could use a smaller drill size, but heck, I got fat fingers.

For some reason, Ford does not provide access holes in the door panel to remove the electric window motor. But they did provide two small punch marks right above two of the three 5/16" machine screws that hold the motor in place. The other machine screw can be accessed via an existing access hole. Drill two 1" holes using the punch marks to center the hole saw. Ta da! Instant access to all three screws holding in the window motor. From here it is a 5 minute job. My motor's electric connection was via a male/female fitting, so the swap was EASY!

Spring is here! I can finally lower my window!

Randy
San Diego


------------------------------
>From rawbar fred.net Fri Apr 11 10:39:24 1997 From: Rick Ehardt
Subject: Re: 1/2 ton to 1 ton alxe conversion To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com


Gregory Sherwin wrote: 

I've got an '84 F150 4X4 longbox.  I am wondering if the rear end (alxe
and springs) from a 1 ton dually will fit mine.  Will the springs from a
one ton fit my 1/2 ton.  I am thinking of using aftermarket bolton fenders instead of buying another bed.  If this is a doable conversion, what
years will fit?  I do some heavy hauling every once and a while and would feel
better with duals and a heavier suspension.

Also, a friend of mine is looking at buying an '87 3/4 ton with a 6.9L diesel
(by the way who makes this engine?) and was wondering how it compares to the 7.3L.

____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
 the 6.9 diesel is a great motor, i put 225,000 miles on mine before i went to the 7.3 which is a more powerful motor but also uses more fuel.  the 6.9 got up to 22mpg, the 7.3 18-19mpg.  they were both made by international harvester. 
i personally would put the dually on the diesel.   rick
66 F750 dump
78 F350 400-8 utility 4spd manual
87 Bronco 300-6 man tran
89 F250 6.9 diesel 4wd man tran







------------------------------
>From ggadwa cyberhighway.net Fri Apr 11 11:48:36 1997 From: Gary Gadwa Subject: GADGETS
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Are there any Ford Fanatics who have tried the TORNADO Air Management System in any of their rigs or know of anyone who has tried it???
My 90 F-250 4X4 351 has the 460 Air Intake Box in Grille instead of 351 Under Hood Intake and the K&N Air Filter. Lots of other Mods done as well such as Crane Cam and Headers back modified exhaust,etc. However, driving almost all miles at 6,500 to 9,000 foot elevation I'm always looking for ways to enhance air intake(Air's a little thin here). Short of going to the VorTech or similiar that is.....
Any comments or ideas appreciated.

Thanks,
GARY
31 Ford Victoria
90 Ford F-250 4X4 Supercab
96 Ford Exlporer





------------------------------
>From JKruse007 aol.com Fri Apr 11 13:07:05 1997 From: JKruse007 aol.com
Subject: Leaking Rear Main Seal?
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I have a 1977 F100 300 six with a 3 speed on the column. (By the way Ken, retarding the timing a little has fixed my "pinging" of the motor. However, I do notice a knock every once in a while. Any suggestions.)

I have noticed recently that I am dropping an amount of oil (circular size of a pepsi can) underneath the motor flywheel/clutch area when I shut the motor off. There are signs of oil present in this area on the frame. I don't know for sure where this oil is coming from, but I think it is the rear seal.
In addition, I have seen fresh oil around the oil sending unit, but I don't know how to fix it, any help.

Is there any "secret" way to check to see if it really is the real main seal without pulling the motor or tranny? Chilton's suggests dropping the tranny for the rear seal, but it mentions a special tool for the transmission journals (I think thats what was said) ???? I thought removing the motor might be easier in the long run. This would allow me to fully inspect all the covers, seals, and gaskets once and for all. Would this process of removing the motor instead of the tranny be a wise decision? Any input would be appreciated. How complicated would this be for a weekend backyard mechanic?

I have really enjoy this newsgroup!! If my 300 six ever fails (Everyone says its almost impossible to kill), I may swap it out for a V8.

Thanks,
John Kruse
'77 F100 300 six, "3 on the tree"


------------------------------
>From marko helix.net Fri Apr 11 13:23:15 1997 From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Bad Cab Mounts
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I installed aftermarket cab mounts into my 71 F250 4x4.

They worked fine for about 3 months.

Trouble is, they (the ones you order from the aftermarket parts catalog, where you can also get fenders, tailgate skins, cab corners, bed metal, that kind of thing) are made out of TISSUE PAPER!!! Or, at best, 18 gauge metal.

So, having driven over a coupla bumps, my cab mounts ruptured thru the bottom (right where the rubber bushing is) and now are about as much good to me as the old, rusted out ones were.

Do NOT use aftermarket cab mounts unless you can get REAL STRONG ones. I would think the best thing to do is to make some up out of some 1/8" steel (don't have to be pretty) and weld them in. Otherwise you will have the same disappointment I had.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4



------------------------------
>From Fri Apr 11 13:33:19 1997 From: "Erik J. O'Daniel" Subject: wet weather engine probs
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Our 84 Bronco II doesn't want to run well in wet weather. (Dry weather presents absolutely no problem.) Wet weather seems to cause some cylinders to fail to fire. (Runs way rough, doesn't want to idle.)

I believe one problem could be a cracked distributor cap that allows moisture in and shorts out the path of electricity, thereby causing a cylinder to fail to fire. What else could be causing this? Is there some stupid electrical part that should be adjusting for wet weather (humidity, I suppose) that is failing to adjust?

Too many electrical parts on these vehicles. Give me my 73 CJ-5 or grandpa's 56 F100 any day.

Thanks for your assistance.
Erik O'Daniel


------------------------------
>From Fri Apr 11 13:33:20 1997 From: "Erik J. O'Daniel" Subject: magazines for 56Ford
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Can anyone recommend good magazines that deal with older (40s & 50s) trucks that don't deal with lowering them or chopping the cab or putting 75 speakers into damn thing and painting it with 23 different, silly colors.

I'm looking for a mag that probably deals with show trucks, restoring, photos, etc. One that appreciates the trucks as they are originally.

Erik O'Daniel


------------------------------
>From sdelanty sonoma.net Fri Apr 11 13:44:35 1997 From: sdelanty sonoma.net
Subject: Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

O.K., I've got a '71 F100 w/390 and T-18, so I'll give it a go...


>
>Hi everyone,
> Help! I am the proud new owner of a 1965 F-250 with a 390 and 4spd. The
>basic maint. has been kept up as the previous family has had it for 20+
>years. A few of the things I needed to know;
> Which plug#s work best

I use Autolite 35's. 45's are the same plug, but are resistor plugs.
I've tried fancier/pricier plugs, but nothing seems to last or perform any better than the $0.99 autolites.

> Are there rubber valve cover gaskets avail. for it?

Yes, I just put a set on, sorry I don't still have the part #.
Got 'em at Kragens.

> Where are the ID#s stamped

Good question. When I had my block out for rebuild, I still didn't find any block I.D.#
If anyone knows, I'd love to find out...

> Which oilfilter (Fram} does it take

All the FE's I've seen use a Fram PH-8 or equiv. Most older fords use PH-8.

> It has 16.5" split rims now, are aftermarket 1 pc. 15" rims avail.?

Yes.
> Is it best to stick with Motorcraft tune up parts or will NAPN do?

I installed a '76 duraspark distributor in mine so points/condensor aren't an issue anymore. (-:
Before that I just used cheap aftermarket stuff with O.K. results.
Points didn't seem to last long regardless of brand.


>
> That should do it for now, I pick up the truck next Wed. and I want to be
>ready.
> Thanks everybody and Ken
>
> Charlie Sr.

> P.S. Hey Ken What does the FE stand for in 390FE?

FE stands for "Ford Edsel". The Edsel was the first to use this basic block design with a whopping 332 cid.

The FE block had improvements/mods thru the years and the FE family included:

332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428, and 427 cammer.

Happy motoring,



Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)



------------------------------
>From tanya tx3.com Fri Apr 11 14:48:31 1997 From: "Tanya Wagger"
Subject: Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Thanks Steve for the info, I'm all set now. But I'll pick your brain later re; that Duraspark setup. I would like to have the truck here before I get too deep into it.
Thanks Again
Charlie Sr.
Tanya Tx3.com

----------
> O.K., I've got a '71 F100 w/390 and T-18, so I'll give it a go...
>
>
> >
> >Hi everyone,
> > Help! I am the proud new owner of a 1965 F-250 with a 390 and 4spd. The
> >basic maint. has been kept up as the previous family has had it for 20+
> >years. A few of the things I needed to know;
> > Which plug#s work best
>
> I use Autolite 35's. 45's are the same plug, but are resistor plugs.
> I've tried fancier/pricier plugs, but nothing seems to last or perform any
> better than the $0.99 autolites.
>
> > Are there rubber valve cover gaskets avail. for it?
>
> Yes, I just put a set on, sorry I don't still have the part #.
> Got 'em at Kragens.
>
> > Where are the ID#s stamped
>
> Good question. When I had my block out for rebuild, I still didn't find any
> block I.D.#
> If anyone knows, I'd love to find out...
>
> > Which oilfilter (Fram} does it take
>
> All the FE's I've seen use a Fram PH-8 or equiv. Most older fords use PH-8.
>
> > It has 16.5" split rims now, are aftermarket 1 pc. 15" rims avail.?
>
> Yes.
> > Is it best to stick with Motorcraft tune up parts or will NAPN do?
>
> I installed a '76 duraspark distributor in mine so points/condensor aren't
> an issue anymore. (-:
> Before that I just used cheap aftermarket stuff with O.K. results.
> Points didn't seem to last long regardless of brand.
>
>
> >
> > That should do it for now, I pick up the truck next Wed. and I want to
> be
> >ready.
> > Thanks everybody and Ken
> >
> > Charlie Sr.
>
> > P.S. Hey Ken What does the FE stand for in 390FE?
>
> FE stands for "Ford Edsel". The Edsel was the first to use this basic block
> design with a whopping 332 cid.
>
> The FE block had improvements/mods thru the years and the FE family included:
>
> 332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428, and 427 cammer.
>
> Happy motoring,
>
>
>
> Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com




------------------------------
>From tanya tx3.com Fri Apr 11 14:53:55 1997 From: "Tanya Wagger"
Subject: Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Thakns Everybody, for all the prompt answers to our maint. questions, thiss will give us a good basic tune up, but you can bet this is not the last you've heard from me. Ha! Ha! Thanks Ken, answering and reading all this Ford mail everyday is a gas.
See Ya later,
Charlie Sr.
Tanya Tx3.com

----------
> O.K., I've got a '71 F100 w/390 and T-18, so I'll give it a go...
>
>
> >
> >Hi everyone,
> > Help! I am the proud new owner of a 1965 F-250 with a 390 and 4spd. The
> >basic maint. has been kept up as the previous family has had it for 20+
> >years. A few of the things I needed to know;
> > Which plug#s work best
>
> I use Autolite 35's. 45's are the same plug, but are resistor plugs.
> I've tried fancier/pricier plugs, but nothing seems to last or perform any
> better than the $0.99 autolites.
>
> > Are there rubber valve cover gaskets avail. for it?
>
> Yes, I just put a set on, sorry I don't still have the part #.
> Got 'em at Kragens.
>
> > Where are the ID#s stamped
>
> Good question. When I had my block out for rebuild, I still didn't find any
> block I.D.#
> If anyone knows, I'd love to find out...
>
> > Which oilfilter (Fram} does it take
>
> All the FE's I've seen use a Fram PH-8 or equiv. Most older fords use PH-8.
>
> > It has 16.5" split rims now, are aftermarket 1 pc. 15" rims avail.?
>
> Yes.
> > Is it best to stick with Motorcraft tune up parts or will NAPN do?
>
> I installed a '76 duraspark distributor in mine so points/condensor aren't
> an issue anymore. (-:
> Before that I just used cheap aftermarket stuff with O.K. results.
> Points didn't seem to last long regardless of brand.
>
>
> >
> > That should do it for now, I pick up the truck next Wed. and I want to
> be
> >ready.
> > Thanks everybody and Ken
> >
> > Charlie Sr.
>
> > P.S. Hey Ken What does the FE stand for in 390FE?
>
> FE stands for "Ford Edsel". The Edsel was the first to use this basic block
> design with a whopping 332 cid.
>
> The FE block had improvements/mods thru the years and the FE family included:
>
> 332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428, and 427 cammer.
>
> Happy motoring,
>
>
>
> Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com




------------------------------
>From wodackjc-stu mlc-wels.edu Fri Apr 11 15:00:48 1997 From: "Jason C Wodack" Subject: Re: wet weather engine probs
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> Our 84 Bronco II doesn't want to run well in wet weather. (Dry
> weather presents absolutely no problem.) Wet weather seems to cause
> some cylinders to fail to fire. (Runs way rough, doesn't want to
> idle.)
>
> I believe one problem could be a cracked distributor cap that allows
> moisture in and shorts out the path of electricity, thereby causing a
> cylinder to fail to fire. What else could be causing this? Is there
> some stupid electrical part that should be adjusting for wet weather
> (humidity, I suppose) that is failing to adjust?
I know people with the same problem It's has to do with needle valve in the carb. I havn't really had the problem I think it might have been changed mid year. I hope this helped a little bit.

Jason Wodack
'84 Bronco II
'93 150 soon I hope


------------------------------
>From wodackjc-stu mlc-wels.edu Fri Apr 11 15:06:00 1997 From: "Jason C Wodack" Subject: Re: Leaking Rear Main Seal?
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Before you go bannannas on the big stuff did you remember the simple stuff? Did you chack the oil pan gasket? I almost did a rear main on my friends 79 100 untill I decided to snoop around a little more.
Just my 2c worth.

Jason Wodack
'84 Bronco II
'93 F150 (soon hopefully)

> I have a 1977 F100 300 six with a 3 speed on the column. (By the way Ken,
> retarding the timing a little has fixed my "pinging" of the motor. However,
> I do notice a knock every once in a while. Any suggestions.)
>
> I have noticed recently that I am dropping an amount of oil (circular size of
> a pepsi can) underneath the motor flywheel/clutch area when I shut the motor
> off. There are signs of oil present in this area on the frame. I don't
> know for sure where this oil is coming from, but I think it is the rear seal.
> In addition, I have seen fresh oil around the oil sending unit, but I don't
> know how to fix it, any help.
>
> Is there any "secret" way to check to see if it really is the real main seal
> without pulling the motor or tranny? Chilton's suggests dropping the tranny
> for the rear seal, but it mentions a special tool for the transmission
> journals (I think thats what was said) ???? I thought removing the motor
> might be easier in the long run. This would allow me to fully inspect all
> the covers, seals, and gaskets once and for all. Would this process of
> removing the motor instead of the tranny be a wise decision? Any input would
> be appreciated. How complicated would this be for a weekend backyard
> mechanic?
>
> I have really enjoy this newsgroup!! If my 300 six ever fails (Everyone says
> its almost impossible to kill), I may swap it out for a V8.
>
> Thanks,
> John Kruse
> '77 F100 300 six, "3 on the tree"


------------------------------
>From kulige vitro.bloomington.in.us Fri Apr 11 16:00:22 1997 From: kulige vitro.bloomington.in.us
Subject: Re: wet weather engine probs
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hello,

> > Our 84 Bronco II doesn't want to run well in wet weather. (Dry
> > weather presents absolutely no problem.) Wet weather seems to cause
> > some cylinders to fail to fire. (Runs way rough, doesn't want to
> > idle.)
> >
> > I believe one problem could be a cracked distributor cap that allows
> > moisture in and shorts out the path of electricity, thereby causing a
> > cylinder to fail to fire. What else could be causing this?

Could be a distributor cap, or the wires, but start out trying the easy stuff first......

All of a sudden, my wife's car would misfire whenever it would rain/wet. One wet evening, the engine were running so badly that I had to pull into a gas station to check it out.
I found out, while checking the tightness of the plug wires with the engine running, that the rubber boots that cover the spark plugs (that are suppose to fit tight and keep moisture out) were not doing their job. My "lo-tech, high voltage sensors" told me this very quickly - I got a hellava jolt when I touched the wet wire!
Anyways, this happened within 6 months of putting these new plug wires/boots on, so I was very suprised that the rubber "stretched" so badly in such a short time..... The next day, I used electrical tape to make a "temporary" fix and wrapped several passes around the boots and spark plugs, vowing to return that dang cheap wire set back as soon as convient. Well, that was last year....and I STILL haven't had a chance to get those swapped out! I do plan to one of these days.......At least the engine doesn't miss when it gets wet!

> Is there
> > some stupid electrical part that should be adjusting for wet weather
> > (humidity, I suppose) that is failing to adjust?
> I know people with the same problem It's has to do with needle valve
> in the carb. I havn't really had the problem I think it might have
> been changed mid year. I hope this helped a little bit.

I doubt this problem is "some..part...adjusting for wet weather..." or even your needle valve in the carb since you say the missing happens when its wet outside only. If I was a betting man, I'd bet you a penny that this is an electrical problem - and another penny (Hey my $.02!!!) it will be an easy one to fix.

Ken's and my motto: Try the easy stuff first! ;-{D Good luck.

Eric
=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================


------------------------------
>From kpayne mindspring.com Fri Apr 11 16:09:33 1997 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: '65 F-250 Maintainance Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>Thakns Everybody, for all the prompt answers to our maint. questions, thiss
>will give us a good basic tune up, but you can bet this is not the last
>you've heard from me. Ha! Ha! Thanks Ken, answering and reading all this
>Ford mail everyday is a gas.
> See Ya later,
> Charlie Sr.
> Tanya Tx3.com
>

Your welcome. Just want to warn you though, don't take my advice when it comes to wheels! I've been hunting around for a new set on my truck and it turns out that I know far less about F100 wheel compatibility than I wish to admit.

Later,
-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks



------------------------------
>From jwilk micron.net Fri Apr 11 19:59:13 1997 From: Jwilk
Subject: Re: wet weather engine probs
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Erik,
My name is John and I own an 85 Ford Bronco II Sport Utility Truck..>;) I have heard of your problem before but it was on an 86 Escort. The escort had a cracked distributor that made it run very bad in wet weather, we just changed it out and all was well. I hope this helps..>;)

John

At 01:33 PM 4/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Our 84 Bronco II doesn't want to run well in wet weather. (Dry
>weather presents absolutely no problem.) Wet weather seems to cause
>some cylinders to fail to fire. (Runs way rough, doesn't want to
>idle.)
>
>I believe one problem could be a cracked distributor cap that allows
>moisture in and shorts out the path of electricity, thereby causing a
>cylinder to fail to fire. What else could be causing this? Is there
>some stupid electrical part that should be adjusting for wet weather
>(humidity, I suppose) that is failing to adjust?
>
>Too many electrical parts on these vehicles. Give me my 73 CJ-5 or
>grandpa's 56 F100 any day.
>
>Thanks for your assistance.
>Erik O'Daniel
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
>


------------------------------
>From cardoso EESUN2.tamu.edu Fri Apr 11 22:25:33 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: eesun1.tamu.edu: cardoso owned process doing -bs From: Jesus Cardoso Subject: Re: Charging Problem
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Tom,

Thanks for your help as well as everybody else's help. I checked the regulator and generator again, and they seem fine. The battery seems to be holding its charge. I can't explain what caused the battery not charge that one time (maybe it was the rain?!!?!?) Once again thanks.

Jesus Cardoso
1963 F100 Longbed Stepside

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997 PonyTom aol.com wrote:

> Hi Fordtrucker's,
>
> Got Jesus' note about a charging problem.
> The only thing you didn't mention was the Voltage regulator....check it
>out. also, a good way to check a generator is to remove the fan belt, ,
>disconnect the armature wire...the big one, and jump directly to the battery
>the armature connection on the generator. It should run like a motor. On the
>early Voltage Regulators it is possible to remove the cover, and look at the
>contacts....wiring too. You can clean the contacts with a small tool called a
>flexstone...just a high falutin' emery board.
> Good Luck
>
> Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
> '78 E-350
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso tamu.edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso

:::::::::::::::"Todos en el mundo sonreimos en la misma lengua.":::::::::::::::



------------------------------
>From hippy11 mail.midohio.net Fri Apr 11 23:13:36 1997 From: hippy11 mail.midohio.net
Subject: Re: wet weather engine probs
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

relying on experience.........check elec. connections on coil and dist. these factory plug connections corrode,become separated from the harness.
71 f-100
68 Mustang GT
67 Cougar GT
86 topaz
93 Grand Marq


------------------------------
>From kpkid smartnet.net Fri Apr 11 23:35:01 1997 Posted-Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 22:36:23 -0500 From: "Bob A. Parsons" Subject: Thanks
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Thanks all the help. I am now the proud owner a 65 F100! I'll try to = take care of that this weekend! The truck has a FE360 in it with a 3 = speed manual. It has been moved from the column to the floor. I was = wanting to change the tranny to an automatic, 4 spd or 5 spd. Any = comments or suggestions on this idea would be appreciated.

65 F100
Bob Parsons


------------------------------
>From tyounger gulf.csc.UVic.CA Sat Apr 12 03:56:52 1997 From: Tom
Subject: Re: Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 11:30 AM 03/04/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I am considering a camper-top for my '96 F-350. Brahma currently tops
>my list due to the lightweight materials and the fact that the brochure
>shows them rolling a truck with the unit not suffering any damage.
>


I love my Raider top. It's got a honeycomb fiberglass roof. No matter how hard you press on the middle of the top when waxing, there is absolutely no denting.
___
TTTTT OO M M The sixth sick shiek's sixth sheep's sick. |~~~|....


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