Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:10:25 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
From: digest-proc lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0036
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Volume 97 Number 0036 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

Re: Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.

Re: Lights
Re: NEW STICKER
The dreaded 292 Y-Block
WHAT TO DO
127,000 mile 302
'70s Voltage regulators
Re: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0035
Gen to alt conversion
Re: Gen to alt conversion
Re: Gen to alt conversion
'70s Gen to alt & regulators
Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
Re: 1983 ford 600 truck
Re: WHAT TO DO
Re: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
Re: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
Delete from mailing list
Re: Please take me off list
Re: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
Re: WHAT TO DO
351M vs. 351W
Fwd: Re: Please take me off list
Fwd: Delete from mailing list
Re. Wash and Wax


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

--------------------------------------------------

>From mdniz19 idt.net Fri Apr 4 12:54:11 1997 From: Mark Dinzebach
Subject: Re: Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am considering a camper-top for my '96 F-350. Brahma currently tops
> my list due to the lightweight materials and the fact that the brochure
> shows them rolling a truck with the unit not suffering any damage.
>
> I will need to get the cab-high or I will not be able to get into the
> parking deck here at the office. As it as, my FM antenna hits one of
> the 7' high beams on the way up, even though I had it cut down from stock!
>
> I would appreciate hearing from folks that have any experience with
> any brands/types, good or bad, to help me make a selection.
>
> Thanks a bunch,
> Jon and the Big Red One
> in Houston
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
>
I had a Brahma on a truck about 10 years ago. It seemed like a quality made product that I had no trouble with.

Mark


------------------------------
>From sky42908 skynet.be Fri Apr 4 13:02:50 1997 From: "JPC Belgium" Subject:
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I'm very sorry but we do not want to receive your mail concerning the trucks any longer.
J.P. Claeys (jeep.city skynet.be)


------------------------------
>From wsabers sunflowr.usd.edu Fri Apr 4 14:19:35 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: sunburst.usd.edu: wsabers owned process doing -bs From: William Sabers Subject: Re: Lights
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

If you can hear the motor of the power window, but it does not move, you may be looking at a replacement clutch

W. Sabers
78 Bronco
69 Mach I


On Fri, 4 Apr 1997 Kalohe ctwok.com wrote:

> Topic: Re: Info Wanted
> Sorry for the delay in replying -- I just now saw your message! Anyway,
> we
> are scratching our heads and we think you have:
> a. a bad headlight switch
> b. loose connection (duh!) somewhere
> c. Bad solder joint somewhere (they heat up and do that
> sometimes)
> Best bet is to trace the electrical system from the accessory box back
> to
> the switch and then to the lights. Look for breaks in the insulation,
> bad
> connections, loose grounds. And if that doesn't work, try replacing the
> switch.
> Thanks Guys. It turned out to be the switch.
> Of course this was low on my list of things to check I started with all
> the
> coners and crimped type places. It did some good though, because I found
> some places that were bare but not yet causing problems. (yes)
> **Next problem is the power window in the drivers door.
> It works most of the time. It tries to come up and just bounces a little
> some times. The motor is working, I can here it! Just sounds like it's
> slipping ?? Guess I'll tear the door apart and look, see, listen.
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>



------------------------------
>From barr erols.com Fri Apr 4 14:39:40 1997 From: "Bruce A. Ramirez" Subject: Re: NEW STICKER
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com


Steve & Rockette wrote: 

At 11:32 PM 2/4/97 -0500, you wrote: >We have all seen the "Piss on Ford sticker."  Now I have created the "Shit on
>Chevy" sticker.  If you would like to obtain a copy of this sticker, send me
>E-mail at NameFrame AOL.com.  Include "sticker" as the subject.

  How about a sticker that says "I'd rather push a Ford than drive a
Chevrolet" ?

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach '57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox

____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
 How About "HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD OVER A CHEVY LATELY" for a bumper sticker?







------------------------------
>From PonyTom aol.com Fri Apr 4 19:11:17 1997 From: PonyTom aol.com
Subject: The dreaded 292 Y-Block
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Fordtrucker's,

Got to up the antie to $.05 after looking up, and Miking Pistons.

Here are the specks as I know them,

292 CI....Same family as the '54 239, '55 272, and '56 292 also for '56 was a 312.
Bore....3.75
Stroke...3.30
Rod Journal dia......2.1885
Main journal dia.....2.4985
Wrist pin dia......... .912
Pin c\l to piston top...1.794 ie Compression height
Rod length................6.455 Pin c/l to rod bearing c\l

Compression ratio lower for earlier year engines, but for the later ones it was 8.8:1
Large trucks had heavier pistons, as this engine was available for Semi trucks. I don't think a twin screw was available....Does anyone know?

Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
'78 E-350.........12,000# GVW


------------------------------
>From MOBILEDAVE msn.com Fri Apr 4 19:36:49 1997 From: "DAVID MUMMERY" Subject: WHAT TO DO
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

There has been some messages about chevy owners giving Ford owners grief. Well here is some that was just told to me.
A chevy owner was telling how much of a shit box my truck is, sooo I set him straight. His truck a 1996 chevy stepside with 9000 miles so far to date has had the following probs. 1) blown motor (350 ci)
2) electrical shorts( not just one)
3) the driver's side window motor does not work
4) and peeling paint My truck in reference 1995 F150 FlareSide 4x4 Super Cab My probs. 1) replaced the steering wheel cover
2) replaced the power mirror switch because the word mirrors had rubbed off.
My truck has almost 50,000 miles and tows a 5700 lbs boat ,takes me hunting, goes 4wheeling , and works on the farm, etc.
So I ask you who's truck Sucks!

Scott Mummery
1996 F350 Crew Cab 4x4
1995 F150 Flare Side 4x4
1966 Step Side


------------------------------
>From yhtlines surfari.net Fri Apr 4 20:54:23 1997 From: yhtlines surfari.net
Subject: 127,000 mile 302
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

My son just acquired an '88 F150 4X with a 302 and automatic (I don't even know if its OD). The truck has 127,000 miles and sounds great. He's absolutley enthralled with it, and likes it better than the 95 GMC he just had. I'm looking for any maintenance suggestions that the new owner might do following purchase, such as change the under frame fuel filterers. BTW this 302 has the eight injectors, and dual tanks.
Also does anyone know an external method of determining if this engine has roller or tappet lifters? My literature indicates the block (?) was configured for either. Let's see should we change the ignition part (what part?) and how long is reasonable before changing the timing chain?
Dave Lampert
yhtlines surfari.net



------------------------------
>From PonyTom aol.com Fri Apr 4 21:39:29 1997 From: PonyTom aol.com
Subject: '70s Voltage regulators
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Fordtrucker's,
Guess I've got to get technical again.
The small voltage regulators used in the '70s was fairly simple, and a complete wiring diagram is in the Haynes '64...'73 Mustang V8 manual...yes, it is for a Mustang, but the wiring is basic, and will work well on a retrofit.
My understanding on the subject is to first lay the regulator flat as it would be mounted, with the connecting pins up. the pin on the left goes to only the field connection on the Alternator, Next pin from the left goes to the C-3 Connection on the alternator, also to the electric choke,if so equipped.
The third pin from the left goes to the idiot light on the dash marked "alt"
Last pin on the right side goes to the battery along with the big connection on the alternator.
If there is any doubt about which pins are which...use an Ohmmeter...The first two pins should raad a fairly high resistance, where, the last pin to the right should show an open circuit everywhere.
Good luck
Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
'78 E-350......12,000# GVW


------------------------------
>From dlove iwaynet.net Fri Apr 4 23:41:41 1997 From: "David S. Love" Subject: Re: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0035 To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>We have all seen the "Piss on Ford sticker."
>How about a sticker that says "I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevrolet" ?
>Ive seen one that Reads, This is your brain, This is your brain on drugs,
> FORD CHEVY

Don't forget: "CODE BLUE! CODE BLUE! THE HEARTBEAT HAS STOPPED!"

'97 F-150 4X4



------------------------------
>From rmeier connect.net Sat Apr 5 01:03:47 1997 From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: Gen to alt conversion
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Tanya writes:
>Or would it be better to use a stock
>type Charge light and if so does it have to be a certain wattage bulb. I
>know on my VW the charge light had to be the right wattage because the >bulb
>actually completed the circuit. The truck is a 1964 F-100 223? 6cyl 3-spd.
>Any help would be much appreciated
>
> Thanks a bunch,

Good work, you got it going, and yes the charging light is needed for reliable operation of the alternator. It supplies a small current to the field winding to start the alternator going, then when the relay (inside the voltage regulator) connected to the stator connection closes, the light is disconnected from the circuit and is no longer needed. They will frequently start without the bulb just from residual magnetism, but not reliably. The wattage of this bulb is not critical just so long as it supplies the needed startup current to the field. A bulb the same size as the low oil pressure indicator (or any of the dash lights will do for that matter) should assure a reliable startup.

As to your question about the ammeter, there are several ways to connect it and I am not familiar with how the aftermarket folks do it. If the wires going to the meter are heavy wires they probably carry full alternator current and would be connected between the starter relay + post and the B+ connection on the battery, and you would need to remove the heavy wire that is now there. This is not a good way to do this but since it allows the use of a cheaper meter, this may be the way it is done. If the wires going to the meter are small it is a shunt type meter and would be connected across a shunt that is placed in the line going from the starter relay to the battery + post. The factory installation may use the wire going from the relay to the battery as a shunt. Sorry I am not much help on this, but you got the alternator going, I suspect you will figure out the meter also.
Regards,
Roger Meier



------------------------------
>From tanya tx3.com Sat Apr 5 02:05:53 1997 From: "Tanya Wagger"
Subject: Re: Gen to alt conversion
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Roger,
Thanks for the quick response. You have peaked my interest now in reguards to the charge light. There was only 1 wire that comes into the cab and that one is the energizer wire for the reg. I have it wired to the back of the ign, a circuit which is only on when the key is on. I guess my question is where does the charge light hook in? I assume it would have to be inline so the current could pass through it? I think if I hook it to the energizer wire it will just stay on since it just has 12v going through it when the key is on. Anyway if you know give me a holler.
Thanks again for everything see ya later,
Charlie

----------
> Tanya writes:
> >Or would it be better to use a stock
> >type Charge light and if so does it have to be a certain wattage bulb. I
> >know on my VW the charge light had to be the right wattage because the
>bulb
> >actually completed the circuit. The truck is a 1964 F-100 223? 6cyl 3-spd.
> >Any help would be much appreciated
> >
> > Thanks a bunch,
>
> Good work, you got it going, and yes the charging light is needed for reliable
> operation of the alternator. It supplies a small current to the field winding
> to start the alternator going, then when the relay (inside the voltage
> regulator) connected to the stator connection closes, the light is
> disconnected from the circuit and is no longer needed. They will frequently
> start without the bulb just from residual magnetism, but not reliably.
The
> wattage of this bulb is not critical just so long as it supplies the needed
> startup current to the field. A bulb the same size as the low oil pressure
> indicator (or any of the dash lights will do for that matter) should assure a
> reliable startup.
>
> As to your question about the ammeter, there are several ways to connect it
> and I am not familiar with how the aftermarket folks do it. If the wires
> going to the meter are heavy wires they probably carry full alternator current
> and would be connected between the starter relay + post and the B+ connection
> on the battery, and you would need to remove the heavy wire that is now there.
> This is not a good way to do this but since it allows the use of a cheaper
> meter, this may be the way it is done. If the wires going to the meter are
> small it is a shunt type meter and would be connected across a shunt that is
> placed in the line going from the starter relay to the battery + post.
The
> factory installation may use the wire going from the relay to the battery as a
> shunt. Sorry I am not much help on this, but you got the alternator going, I
> suspect you will figure out the meter also.
> Regards,
> Roger Meier
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com




------------------------------
>From karlc cnsii.com Sat Apr 5 02:30:03 1997 From: Karl Cunningham Subject: Re: Gen to alt conversion
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 01:03 AM 4/5/97 -0500, Roger Meier wrote:
>If the wires going to the meter are small it is a shunt type meter and would be connected >across a shunt that is placed in the line going from the starter relay to the battery + post.

Greetings --

Shouldn't the shunt go between the starter relay (solenoid) and the rest of the electrical circuit, not between it and the battery? Otherwise, the full starter current will flow through the shunt.

I hooked mine up by disconnecting all the wires from the battery post of the solenoid, except the battery cable, and then connecting the meter shunt between the battery terminal of the solenoid and the wires I disconnected.


Karl Cunningham
karlc cnsii.com
1960 F250 factory 4x4 w/292


------------------------------
>From PonyTom aol.com Sat Apr 5 09:02:42 1997 From: PonyTom aol.com
Subject: '70s Gen to alt & regulators
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Fordtrucker's,

Just had to comment on the hookup of ammeters.
I consider it a bit risque to install an aftermarket meter that carries the entire load of the alternator, as it takes a run of #10 wire...two of them one side to the Battery, and all the load,except the starter, and the other side to th output of the alternator.
Th reason I consider it to be risque is the fact that these wires are unfused, and if they wear, and short to ground....You may be calling the fire dept.
If you use an OEM style Ammeter it requires a .02 Ohm shunt, which I made from existing wire on a conversion now has both idiot light, and ammeter.
What I did for proper OEM operation was to use the wire routed from the alternator to the battery connection as the shunt, by connecting the #18 guage wires from the meter , one side directly to the big terminal on the alternator, and the other to the closest connection to the battery ie, at the solenoid.
Works great, only it will have you thinking, as the meter works backward from what logic tells you to polarity - wise connect the meter...I had to reverse mine for proper ammeter swing.
Good luck

Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
'78 E-350


------------------------------
>From rvales worldnet.att.net Sat Apr 5 09:35:20 1997 From: "Diego Millan" Subject: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hello,

Does anybody know how to make a 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L) quicker without voiding
the warranty? I use it to go to work (over 50 miles hiway per day). It lacks passing
power and has a hard time when highway slopes up.

I know I should have bought the bigger engine but is there a quick fix?

Will appreciate any comments, suggestions, etc.

DM


------------------------------
>From kpayne mindspring.com Sat Apr 5 11:48:36 1997 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: 1983 ford 600 truck
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

If anyone can help this person, please send him email. Thanks guys (and gals)....

Oh, his address is:

lpinc1 idt.net

At 09:27 AM 4/3/97 -0800, you wrote:
>dear sir,im looking for information on a 1983 ford 600 conventional
>single axle cab-chassis.im an insurance adjuster in new york and trying
>to settle a damage claim.your response would be greatly appreciated.
>

-Ken Payne
1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8
List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions.
Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks



------------------------------
>From silent.bob juno.com Sat Apr 5 13:03:10 1997 From: silent.bob juno.com
Subject: Re: WHAT TO DO
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

On Fri, 4 Apr 1997 19:36:49 -0500 (EST) "DAVID MUMMERY" writes:
>There has been some messages about chevy owners giving Ford owners
>grief. Well
>here is some that was just told to me.
>A chevy owner was telling how much of a shit box my truck is, sooo I
>set him
>straight. His truck a 1996 chevy stepside with 9000 miles so far to
>date has
>had the following probs. 1) blown motor (350 ci)
> 2) electrical shorts( not just one)
> 3) the driver's side window motor
>does not
>work
> 4) and peeling paint
>My truck in reference 1995 F150 FlareSide 4x4 Super Cab
>My probs. 1) replaced the steering wheel cover
> 2) replaced the power mirror
>switch
>because the word mirrors had rubbed off.
>My truck has almost 50,000 miles and tows a 5700 lbs boat ,takes me
>hunting,
>goes 4wheeling , and works on the farm, etc.
>So I ask you who's truck Sucks!
>
>Scott Mummery
>1996 F350 Crew Cab 4x4
>1995 F150 Flare Side 4x4
>1966 Step Side
>

Amen.

Robert Inman

95 Ranger Super Cab 2.3L
Miles: 51,567
Uses: Hunting, Fishing, Boating, Camping, Work uses, and towing broken S-10's
Problems: Right Front Brake pad, Burned out light in Curse Control button.


------------------------------
>From silent.bob juno.com Sat Apr 5 13:03:12 1997 From: silent.bob juno.com
Subject: Re: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L) To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

On Sat, 5 Apr 1997 09:35:20 -0500 (EST) "Diego Millan" writes:
>Hello,
>
>Does anybody know how to make a 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L) quicker without
>voiding
>the warranty? I use it to go to work (over 50 miles hiway per day).
>It
>lacks passing
>power and has a hard time when highway slopes up.
>
>I know I should have bought the bigger engine but is there a quick
>fix?
>
>Will appreciate any comments, suggestions, etc.
>
>DM

I know how you feel, although it does get great gas milage for a truck, it does
lack passing and towing power.

Well, for starters, you can remove the baffle behind the air filter, and take that
air muffler that is between the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body off
and replace it with a piece of 20 gauge stainless steel pipe that you can either find
or do like i did and roll it, then tack or spot weld it together, and to make it
look really nice, polish it with a polishing wheel, or you can use sandpaper.
That added a little bit more hp and made it a little louder also.

There are some more things you can do to it, but it will cost you a little bit more
money. You can throw a cam in it, you can put a supercharger on it, (if you are brave, you can go NOS), K&N Air filter, Flowmasters pipes, etc....

...OR...

you can do what im planing to do and swap it out with a 5.0L ;)

Robert Inman
95 Ranger Supercab 2.3L

silent.bob juno.com


------------------------------
>From midnite orion.bv.sgi.net Sat Apr 5 13:24:50 1997 From: "Jerry Dean"
Subject: Re: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L) To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Buy a K&N Filter Replacement for it. Also get high performance spark plugs and wires. If you really want to go the extra mile, install a new custom dual exhaust system from the catalytic converter back. I have done all of this and more and my warranty still holds true.

----------
> From: Diego Millan
> To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
> Subject: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
> Date: Saturday, April 05, 1997 9:35 AM
>
> Hello,
>
> Does anybody know how to make a 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L) quicker without
> voiding
> the warranty? I use it to go to work (over 50 miles hiway per day). It
> lacks passing
> power and has a hard time when highway slopes up.
>
> I know I should have bought the bigger engine but is there a quick fix?
>
> Will appreciate any comments, suggestions, etc.
>
> DM
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com


------------------------------
>From rwrede worldnet.att.net Sat Apr 5 13:32:30 1997 From: "R Wrede" Subject: Delete from mailing list
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Please delete me from this list Thanks


------------------------------
>From jafo galaxynet.com Sat Apr 5 14:45:54 1997 From: "Edward M. Geer" Subject: Re: Please take me off list
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

MR HARRY I SCHEYER wrote:
>
> Please take me off your e-mail list. I am not and will never be a
> truck owner.
> Thank you
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com remove me from your e-mail list! thank you


------------------------------
>From wodackjc-stu mlc-wels.edu Sat Apr 5 15:56:21 1997 From: "Jason C Wodack" Subject: Re: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L) To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> Buy a K&N Filter Replacement for it. Also get high performance spark plugs
> and wires. If you really want to go the extra mile, install a new custom
> dual exhaust system from the catalytic converter back. I have done all of
> this and more and my warranty still holds true.
--snip--

Would this work on my 84 bronco II as well?

How much does it cost about?

Will it do much to the gas mileage?

Jason Wodack


------------------------------
>From Kalohe ctwok.com Sat Apr 5 19:38:06 1997 From: Kalohe ctwok.com
Subject: Re: WHAT TO DO
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

19997 F150 Long bed , V6 GREAT truck Nothing yet 19,635 miles.
And My 81 Ranger F-150 ( well a few parts) but I love it.
FO>On Fri, 4 Apr 1997 19:36:49 -0500 (EST) "DAVID MUMMERY" FO> writes:
FO>>There has been some messages about chevy owners giving Ford owners FO>>grief. Well
FO>>here is some that was just told to me.
FO>>A chevy owner was telling how much of a shit box my truck is, sooo I FO>>set him
FO>>straight. His truck a 1996 chevy stepside with 9000 miles so far to FO>>date has
FO>>had the following probs. 1) blown motor (350 ci) FO>> 2) electrical shorts( not just one) FO>> 3) the driver's side window motor FO>>does not
FO>>work
FO>> 4) and peeling paint FO>>My truck in reference 1995 F150 FlareSide 4x4 Super Cab FO>>My probs. 1) replaced the steering wheel cover FO>> 2) replaced the power mirror FO>>switch
FO>>because the word mirrors had rubbed off.
FO>>My truck has almost 50,000 miles and tows a 5700 lbs boat ,takes me FO>>hunting,
FO>>goes 4wheeling , and works on the farm, etc.
FO>>So I ask you who's truck Sucks!
FO>>
FO>>Scott Mummery
FO>>1996 F350 Crew Cab 4x4
FO>>1995 F150 Flare Side 4x4
FO>>1966 Step Side
FO>>

FO>Amen.

FO>Robert Inman

FO>95 Ranger Super Cab 2.3L
FO>Miles: 51,567
FO>Uses: Hunting, Fishing, Boating, Camping, Work uses, and towing broken FO>S-10's
FO>Problems: Right Front Brake pad, Burned out light in Curse Control FO>button.

FO>____________________________________________________________________ FO>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ FO>To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com FO>For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com FO>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com




------------------------------
>From myfive concentric.net Sat Apr 5 21:10:25 1997 From: "The Knopf's" Subject: 351M vs. 351W
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I own a 83 F250 4X4 for daily driving (351W with the 4 speed manual), work and occasional plowing. I recently purchased a donor truck (84 with a 351M and C6 automatic).
Both being high milage, I have to rebuild one of these drive trains.
The question is, which drive train would better serve me? I'm leaning toward the 351M with the C6. I'd like some opinions?
Thanks and the information would be greatly appreciated.


------------------------------
>From canor hotmail.com Sat Apr 5 22:04:36 1997 X-Originating-IP: [198.139.69.4]
From: "CARMELO RIVERA" Subject: Fwd: Re: Please take me off list To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 14:45:54 -0500 (EST)
>Subject: Re: Please take me off list
>To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
>
>MR HARRY I SCHEYER wrote:
>>
>> Please take me off your e-mail list. I am not and will never be a
>> truck owner.
>> Thank you
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________________
>> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
>> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>remove me from your e-mail list! thank you
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>



--------------------------------------------------------- Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------


------------------------------
>From canor hotmail.com Sat Apr 5 22:05:33 1997 X-Originating-IP: [198.139.69.4]
From: "CARMELO RIVERA" Subject: Fwd: Delete from mailing list
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 13:32:30 -0500 (EST)
>Subject: Delete from mailing list
>To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
>
>Please delete me from this list Thanks
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
....


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