Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 12:36:15 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
From: digest-proc lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0035
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Volume 97 Number 0035 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

seal on 56 rear axle, replace?
292 Y-blocks
Re: NEW STICKER
Re: Opinions Wanted
Washing and waxing goodies
'47 rear axle oil seal questions
Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.
Re: 292 Y-blocks
Re: Opinions Wanted - Reply
Re: Washing and waxing goodies
Rear gear housing seals
Air Conditioner Conversion
Re: Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.
RCPT: car wash, wax
Re: 292 Y-blocks
Re: NEW STICKER
Re: 87 F-150 Conversion
Re: Air Conditioner Conversion
Re: Generator to Alternator Conversion
> Forgive me for being unclear on the years that the
Re: NEW STICKER
Re: 292 Y-blocks
Re: 292 Y-blocks
Generator to alernator
re: Temp guage
AC conversion
Re: Air Conditioner Conversion
Re: 292 Y-blocks
Re: 292 Y-blocks
Re: Air Conditioner Conversion
Lights


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

--------------------------------------------------

>From eodani varney.idbsu.edu Thu Apr 3 01:38:58 1997 From: "Erik J. O'Daniel" Subject: seal on 56 rear axle, replace?
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

My grandpa's 1956 F-100 Express has what is apparently either a bad "Differential Pinion Grease Seal" or a bad "Driving Pinion Oil Seal Dust Deflector" (from the Obsolete Ford Parts catalog).

It appears to be the frontmost piece behind the u-joint flange that connects to the driveline. I think I read somewhere that this seal or dust cover was originally leather and metal, and the outer part of the seal does appear to once have been leather. (Currently it is very dry and shriveled-up.) I tried describing this to two different auto shops and one said it wasn't that important and the other said it should be replaced. Replacing it would be a bear because it is a loop and, from what I see, the u-joint flange will have to be pulled, at least...

Does this sound familiar to anyone? (I really need a digital camera so I can snap a picture and throw it on the web and say, "Go look at this. Tell me what my problem is..." Eventually we'll start sending .wav files or something to each other to diagnose sounds because you really can't convey an engine noise with the alphabet, or I can't anyway.)

Thank you.

Erik O'Daniel


------------------------------
>From mbaker slate.mines.edu Thu Apr 3 02:35:24 1997 From: Mathew Baker Subject: 292 Y-blocks
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> Okay, I feel better now...
> 292 Questions to follow...
> What is the valve lash?
> What size are the valves?
> What is the compression height of the piston?
> How much torque do these monsters make?
> Does anyone make a better cam?
> How big is the clutch?
> Anybody make a blower kit? - Just kidding, maybe...
> Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
> '57 F100 Shorty
> '63 F100 Longbox
>
Ok Here I go:
1).019" intake and exhaust
2) Valve size varies, over 2" for intake I think on ECZ casting heads (have to measure again)
3) Have to measure, but 8.5-9:1 compression ratio 4) With the old measurement, 300 ft. lbs. on up for a 292. Think that it works out to about 350 ft. lbs. They pull like a 390 when you lug them. They are great for a four wheel drive.
5) Any of the major cam companies will grind a custom cam, just remember
that you need a forged crank (only found in '63 and '64 HD
engines) for 6000 or more RPM.
6) 10" on a '61-'64 w/ a Warner T-98 four speed 7) '57 cars had a Paxton supercharger pushing about 8 psi boost. Find a
'57 w/ a blower, see how it was set up, and build your own
setup. '57 intake manifolds for a modern Holley 4-barrel (4150 or 4160) are available from most little Thunderbird parts
suppliers for about $150.


Mat Baker
'64 F-250 4X4 292 Y-block


------------------------------
>From TaylorToot aol.com Thu Apr 3 08:24:22 1997 From: TaylorToot aol.com
Subject: Re: NEW STICKER
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I recieved your posting from ford and would like a copy of the sticker.


------------------------------
>From silent.bob juno.com Thu Apr 3 09:52:53 1997 From: silent.bob juno.com
Subject: Re: Opinions Wanted
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Well, i was going to say ford blue, but i didn't know that it was going to be a blown 5.0
But it since it it going to be blown, it might look better with what you had planed.
So i say, go for the 60's muscle car look. Do you have a new speedo for that ranger?
You are going to bend that needle at 120mph.

.---. .-----------
/ \ __ / ------ fox bbs.icelair.com
/ / \(..)/ ----- fox unix.icelair.com
////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icelair.com
//// / // : : --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icelair.com/~fox // / / /` '-- The Best Never Rest // //..\
=======UU====UU===[95 Ranger XLT 2.3L]=[silent.bob juno.com]===
'//||\`
''``


On Wed, 02 Apr 1997 18:31:17 -0500 "Matthew N. Harwood" writes:
>OK, here's your chance. I know from personal experience that each of
>you out there in FordLand has an opinion one way or another. So here
>I am, asking for it. Tell me what you think. I'm serious.
>
>So I'm building this 5.0L Ranger. I have the engine built and ready
>to go
>and sitting on the stand. But what color should it be? My wife and I
>are stalemated--she likes traditional Ford Blue and I would kind of
>like
>to see it body color (Toreador Red--kind of brick red metallic). By
>the
>way, I have a Kenne-Bell blower with the polished manifolds, polished
>valve covers, and chromed accessory brackets.
>
>Durability issues aside (the blue might be more durable, but probably
>only by a little bit), we are only stuck on the color here. I'll be
>using
>this POR-15 stuff as a primer if I go the body color route.
>
>Also, what do you think of painting the engine compartment semi-gloss
>black like 60's muscle cars? The detailed engine will really pop in
>front of that background, don't you think? Otherwise, the stock drab
>(non-clear-coated) red paint will remain...
>
>Please send me your opinion. I know you have one. I'm almost done
>with this project, if only I can get over these last few hurdles...
>
>Mucho thanks in advance.
>--
>Matt Harwood
>Harwood Performance Engineering (HPE)
>Cleveland, OH
>
>1993 Mustang LX coupe (evolving into A-sedan racer)
>1997 Ranger Splash extended cab (soon to be Kenne-Bell blown 5.0L
>powered)
>1993 Nissan NX2000 (The "Super Egg")
>
>| Another Fordnatics post -- Author retains copyright -- ask before
>forwarding |
>|Posts: fordnatics lists.best.com Requests:
>fordnatics-request lists1.best.com|
>
>


------------------------------
>From JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM Thu Apr 3 10:34:01 1997 From: JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM
Subject: Washing and waxing goodies

To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>My question is, what products are good to use to wash and wax your
>ford with? I have heard that Meguiar's is good to use? I don't want
>to use anything that may do more damage than good. Your
>feedback on this subject would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Alan
>Austin, Tx


Hi Alan,

I am a recovering detail-addict. I have only washed my truck once a week for a year, so I may be cured, but I used to wash my '86 GT and '89 Formula 350 Firebird 3 to 5 times per week.

The only good thing about that addiction was that I was finally able to find some products I liked. Anything made by Mother's is primo, I have used their stuff probably since the late 1970s. I especially like their California Gold pure carnauba (sp?) wax without cleaners, and also their glaze. The glaze is great for removing light scratches. If wet leaves or birdsh*t sit without you noticing, they will sometimes etch the paint, and this glaze removes the defect very gently. They also have a car wash which is good, if pricey. For that, I use Westleys, which comes in a big jug and lasts a long time.

The one drawback to California Gold and perhaps carnauba waxes in general is that they don't have the lasting protection of some laboratory formulas.
You really have to reapply every month and a half to three months, depending on weather, sunshine, etc. But I haven't seen anything to beat them for glossy, wet-looking shine.

I use turkish towels (100% cotton) for drying the vehicle, which pisses-off my wife to no end since I reserve the best for the vehicle and we have to settle for a lower grade for our showers! (Yeah, but these towels don't scratch OUR skin! I keep telling her...) Chamois are ok, but you have to be sure you keep grit off or it will grind your paint. I like the towels because they are very soft and absorbent and you only use one for a short time, it gets wet, and you use another, which means you're more likely not to accumulate foreign matter on the towel.

It goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway- wash and wax early or late in the day, *well* out of the sun. Of course, waxing should be done right after washing, so that you don't grind dirt, pollen, etc. into the paint.
The only exception I make is that if I do a spot repair for a scratch, etc, I wash the area, hit it with some glaze, buff it out (turkish towels again) and hit it with a coat of California Gold to seal everything up.

My F-350 is the easiest (quickest) vehicle to wash and wax I've ever had!
The height makes it so that you have to bend down very little. I can do a good job in about an hour (washing only). I forgot to mention- one key to good washing is to wash in sections, just like you wax. I use body panels as dividing lines, and wash only one panel, or half the hood, for example. The fact that you will overlap means that many adjoining areas get washed two or three times. This is goodness. And keep the entire vehicle constantly wet, until you are completely through washing. This helps avoid streaking and spots.

Rain-X really works, but keep it off your paint.

If you take the time to read the directions thoroughly before you buy, and use the products thoughtfully, I think you'll find many you are happy with.

Good luck,
Jon and the Big Red One
in Houston


------------------------------
>From mmiller dryden.net Thu Apr 3 10:53:23 1997 From: "Mitch Miller" Subject: '47 rear axle oil seal questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

The rear axle has oil seals inside near the end of the axle housing.
How can they be changed?
Wouldn't the hub grease seals effectively keep the oil out of the hub?
Do I even need to change them?
I'm sure they are punched-out in the '46 but I never get any oil leakage.

Mitch Miller
mmiller dryden.net
'47 Panel Delivery van
'46 F-1 pickup
'88 Bronco























------------------------------
>From JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM Thu Apr 3 11:30:35 1997 From: JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM
Subject: Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi All,

I am considering a camper-top for my '96 F-350. Brahma currently tops my list due to the lightweight materials and the fact that the brochure shows them rolling a truck with the unit not suffering any damage.

I will need to get the cab-high or I will not be able to get into the parking deck here at the office. As it as, my FM antenna hits one of the 7' high beams on the way up, even though I had it cut down from stock!

I would appreciate hearing from folks that have any experience with any brands/types, good or bad, to help me make a selection.

Thanks a bunch,
Jon and the Big Red One
in Houston


------------------------------
>From karlc cnsii.com Thu Apr 3 11:34:07 1997 From: Karl Cunningham Subject: Re: 292 Y-blocks
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 02:35 AM 4/3/97 -0500, Mathew wrote:
>6) 10" on a '61-'64 w/ a Warner T-98 four speed

As I remember, my '60 292 has an 11" clutch w/T-98.

They do lug like crazy.

Karl Cunningham
karlc cnsii.com
1960 F250 factory 4x4



------------------------------
>From PACEG1 WPGATE.UOFS.EDU Thu Apr 3 12:00:58 1997 From: Glen Pace Subject: Re: Opinions Wanted - Reply
X-VMS-To: IN%"FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

FORD Blue!!!!



------------------------------
>From jks2x faraday.clas.virginia.edu Thu Apr 3 12:28:05 1997 From: "Jason K. Schechner" Subject: Re: Washing and waxing goodies To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I've been using Meguiars on my 95 Mustang GT and I love the stuff. They've got a 4-step process that leaves the car looking terrific: wash, clean, polish, wax. In fact, I've got a date with the car this weekend to do the whole thing - takes between 3-5 hours.
Fordtruck content: I've got a pair of 79 Broncos that I don't even bother to wax because of the lousy condition of their paint. I intend to remedy that this summer. I'm learning to weld so I can fix the cancer damage and I intend to strip off all of the old paint and repaint it myself. A friend has painted half a dozen Broncos and he's practically insisted on helping, as has another friends who's taking a bunch of painting classes.
So, should I buy a sandblaster for my compressor to strip off all of the old paint and rust or should I do it chemically? Also, what brands of paint does anyone recommend? One truck (the Blue one) doesn't see much off-road time and probably won't. The green one, though, sees a lot of off-road so the paint should be as tough as possible to resist scratches.
Thanks!

-Jason

PS: Winches - for a 79 Bronco, will a Warn XD9000i be sufficient?

--
Jason K. Schechner
Unix Sysadmin - Oracle Corp
devellopers who never crash anything [computers] are proving
they have no creativity. -[Brecht]


------------------------------
>From PonyTom aol.com Thu Apr 3 14:56:14 1997 From: PonyTom aol.com
Subject: Rear gear housing seals
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Fordtrucker's,

On the subject of seals on rear gear housings, I am refering to two...Erik's '56, and Mitch's '47....First of all if they are bad ....oil will be leaking at either location. On the Pinion seal...not too tough a job, as once you get the driveshaft out,just remove the center nut, I use an impact wrench, but can be done with hand tools, the yoke is on a spline, not pressed on, so you can pull it off by hand, pry the seal out, and replace it with a new one. I just drive it on with a hammer.

On the axle seals you need a slide hammer puller with inside claws that can be adjusted for a tight fit in the seal. depending on the bearings, you may also need the slide hammer puller with a hub attachment. My presumption is on this seal being installed in a F-100 automobile style housing....hope I guessed right.


Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
'78 E-350


------------------------------
>From rotto juno.com Thu Apr 3 15:20:04 1997 Subject: Air Conditioner Conversion
From: rotto juno.com (R o y)
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I am contemplating the conversion of my Ford truck from freon 12 to the new refrigerant as used in new vehicles. A local parts store sells a conversion kit for about $60.

This kit contains new oil, O-ring seals and service valves.

Has anyone did such a conversion? Did it cool OK? Any problems?

The parts man said you have to flush the system but he didn't know how that would be done. How would this be done?

I realize any remaining freon would have to be removed for recycling.

Any information on this would be appreciated.

Roy
rotto juno.com


------------------------------
>From HURDJ VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU Thu Apr 3 15:21:02 1997 From: JIM HURD Subject: Re: Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.
X-VMS-To: IN%"FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com"
X-VMS-Cc: HURDJ
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Jon,
Just as an aside, I keep my CB antenna about 3" above my cap so when I pull into strange parking garages it works like a curb feeler, (i.e., ceiling feeler!). When I see the antenna bend, I know the ceiling is to low for my truck.

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)


------------------------------
>From JBRANYAN weiner.crsc.k12.ar.us Thu Apr 3 15:49:14 1997 From: "Jeremy Branyan" Subject: RCPT: car wash, wax
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Confirmation of reading: your message -

Date: 1 Apr 97 9:31
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: car wash, wax

Was read at 18:04, 3 Apr 97.



------------------------------
>From canzus seanet.com Thu Apr 3 16:01:40 1997 From: Steve & Rockette Subject: Re: 292 Y-blocks
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 02:35 AM 3/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>> Okay, I feel better now...
>> 292 Questions to follow...
>> What is the compression height of the piston?

>> Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
>> '57 F100 Shorty
>> '63 F100 Longbox
>>

>3) Have to measure, but 8.5-9:1 compression ratio
Thanks for the input, But....
You misinterpreted the Q, I was asking for the compression HEIGHT, which is measured for the piston pin centreline to the top of the piston. The other Q I have is; what is the connecting rod length?
Also, what is the actual stroke?, I come up with 3.30", is this correct? As you can tell, I don't have a manual for this thing,yet.
Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox



------------------------------
>From canzus seanet.com Thu Apr 3 16:01:36 1997 From: Steve & Rockette Subject: Re: NEW STICKER
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 11:32 PM 2/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>We have all seen the "Piss on Ford sticker." Now I have created the "Shit on
>Chevy" sticker. If you would like to obtain a copy of this sticker, send me
>E-mail at NameFrame AOL.com. Include "sticker" as the subject.

How about a sticker that says "I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevrolet" ?

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox



------------------------------
>From pyro mounet.com Thu Apr 3 16:58:22 1997 From: Pyro
Subject: Re: 87 F-150 Conversion
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> >From kpayne mindspring.com Mon Mar 31 23:30:53 1997
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: Re: 87 F150 Conversion?
> To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
>

However, you'd have to switch the cab out too
> as they won't match up. You'll need a grinder, extra sheet metal
> and alot of patience to do it.

Forgive me for being unclear on the years that the bodystyles have changed, but I think you've misunderstood me. My 87 has the flat front end, the next body had the same lines on the cab but the fenders, hood, grille are rounded. It sounds like you thought I meant the newest "aero" bodystyle. Unless I'm mistaken, the fender lines with the second dtyle I mentioned should match up with my 87.


------------------------------
>From lindstdt freeppp.com Thu Apr 3 17:56:17 1997 From: "Kevin Lindstedt" Subject: Re: Air Conditioner Conversion To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I saw a similar kit and have the same questions. As far as the flushing goes- The instructions I saw required you to dismount all the components and fill them with a flushing solution, slosh that around and blow it out with air. I do know this much: the oils used on R12 and R134a are incompatible with each other.

----------
> From: R o y
> To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
> Subject: Air Conditioner Conversion
> Date: Thursday, April 03, 1997 2:20 PM
>
> I am contemplating the conversion of my Ford truck from freon 12 to the
> new refrigerant as used in new vehicles. A local parts store sells a
> conversion kit for about $60.
>
> This kit contains new oil, O-ring seals and service valves.
>
> Has anyone did such a conversion? Did it cool OK? Any problems?
>
> The parts man said you have to flush the system but he didn't know how
> that would be done. How would this be done?
>
> I realize any remaining freon would have to be removed for recycling.
>
> Any information on this would be appreciated.
>
> Roy
> rotto juno.com
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>


------------------------------
>From tanya tx3.com Thu Apr 3 18:59:33 1997 From: "Tanya Wagger"
Subject: Re: Generator to Alternator Conversion To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hey Everybody, Maybe I can just get some info on where the wires go. Right now I'm looking at a mid 70's F-250 donor truck. It had the sealed type vlotage reg. with 4 wires coming out. I want to trace them down but the wrecking yard won't let me cut the harness up. My son's truck is just sittin' here with a bad Gen and I figure we might as well do it right. If anybody has the late 70's early 80's issue of Hot Rod mag with the Ford starting and charging circuits in them give us a holler. Hey Bill Thanks for looking for us. See Ya,

Charlie,Charlie

----------
> Anybody out there in Ford Truck list land done such a thing. Charlie
> asked me and I am still checking out other sources. When I changed the
> motor in my '64 I went to electronic ignition and changed all the wiring
> harness to match (got rid of the resitor wire, etc). Seems like such a
> thing could be done to a stock set up, huh???
>
>
> Bill
> '64 F100 Shortbox - 302/C4 (soon to be 351W/C4)
> '95 Thunderbird (wife's ride - soon to be Ford Truck)
> '90 Harley Dresser - (we shall never part)
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com




------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Thu Apr 3 19:27:24 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: > Forgive me for being unclear on the years that the
bodystyles
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> Forgive me for being unclear on the years that the bodystyles
>have changed, but I think you've misunderstood me. My 87 has the
>flat front end, the next body had the same lines on the cab but the
>fenders, hood, grille are rounded. It sounds like you thought I
> meant the newest "aero" bodystyle. Unless I'm mistaken, the fender
>lines with the second dtyle I mentioned should match up with my 87.

You are correct. I misunderstood you and thought you meant the newly redesigned 97 on your 87. Yes, I believe the front clip should bolt on yours. I'd verify it first with some measurements as junk yards don't take returned front clips. It would be a good idea to crawl under one to make sure it secures to the frame the same way (case in point: 67 looks like a 68-72 but uses a 66 frame so its slightly different; but in this case not enough to really make a difference).




------------------------------
>From silent.bob juno.com Thu Apr 3 20:57:04 1997 From: silent.bob juno.com
Subject: Re: NEW STICKER
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

On Thu, 3 Apr 1997 16:01:36 -0500 (EST) Steve & Rockette writes:
>At 11:32 PM 2/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>We have all seen the "Piss on Ford sticker." Now I have created the
>"Shit on
>>Chevy" sticker. If you would like to obtain a copy of this sticker,
>send me
>>E-mail at NameFrame AOL.com. Include "sticker" as the subject.
>
> How about a sticker that says "I'd rather push a Ford than drive a
>Chevrolet" ?
>
>Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
>'57 F100 Shorty
>'63 F100 Longbox

Ive seen one that Reads, This is your brain, This is your brain on drugs,
FORD CHEVY

.---. .-----------
/ \ __ / ------ fox bbs.icelair.com
/ / \(..)/ ----- fox unix.icelair.com
////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icelair.com
//// / // : : --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icelair.com/~fox // / / /` '-- The Best Never Rest // //..\
=======UU====UU===[95 Ranger XLT 2.3L]=[silent.bob juno.com]===
'//||\`
''``


------------------------------
>From mbaker slate.mines.edu Thu Apr 3 21:28:16 1997 From: Mathew Baker Subject: Re: 292 Y-blocks
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Steve & Rockette wrote:
>
> At 02:35 AM 3/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >> Okay, I feel better now...
> >> 292 Questions to follow...
> >> What is the compression height of the piston?
>
> >> Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
> >> '57 F100 Shorty
> >> '63 F100 Longbox
> >>
>
> >3) Have to measure, but 8.5-9:1 compression ratio
>
> Thanks for the input, But....
> You misinterpreted the Q, I was asking for the compression HEIGHT,
> which is measured for the piston pin centreline to the top of the
> piston. The other Q I have is; what is the connecting rod length?
> Also, what is the actual stroke?, I come up with 3.30", is this
> correct? As you can tell, I don't have a manual for this thing,yet.


I know that is what you wanted, I don't have a rod and piston here to measure. The actual stroke is 3.30" like you measured.

Mat Baker
'64 F-250 4X4


------------------------------
>From mbaker slate.mines.edu Thu Apr 3 21:36:50 1997 From: Mathew Baker Subject: Re: 292 Y-blocks
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Karl Cunningham wrote:
>
> At 02:35 AM 4/3/97 -0500, Mathew wrote:
> >6) 10" on a '61-'64 w/ a Warner T-98 four speed
>
> As I remember, my '60 292 has an 11" clutch w/T-98.
>
> They do lug like crazy.
>
> Karl Cunningham
> karlc cnsii.com
> 1960 F250 factory 4x4
>

It may be larger because of being 4X4. My '64, '63 F250, and my '61 F100 all have 10" clutches, and the '66 I parted out for the 4X4 parts had a 390FE, NP431 Tranny, and a 11" clutch, the same as our '72 F250.

Mat Baker
'64 F250 4X4 w/ '66 F250 running gear, 292 Y-block


------------------------------
>From rmeier connect.net Thu Apr 3 22:15:18 1997 From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: Generator to alernator
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>Hey Everybody, Maybe I can just get some info on where the wires go. Right
>now I'm looking at a mid 70's F-250 donor truck. It had the sealed type
>vlotage reg. with 4 wires coming out. I want to trace them down but the
>wrecking yard won't let me cut the harness up. My son's truck is just
>sittin' here with a bad Gen and I figure we might as well do it right. If
>anybody has the late 70's early 80's issue of Hot Rod mag with the Ford
>starting and charging circuits in them give us a holler. Hey Bill Thanks
>for looking for us. See Ya,
> Charlie,Charlie OK if you will give me some basic information I will try to describe what goes where and why. Does your truck have an ammeter guage or a charging light? I assume you can get the thing properly mounted with the belts running true etc, as I don't know what you are putting the thing on. I will also take as a given that you are familiar with the basics of electricity, how to make connections, wire size, and how to use voltmeters etc. If not tell me know so we will not go down a path that costs you a lot of money and does not get your truck running. About 15 years ago I converted my old Ford tractor (8N type) from a three brush 6 volt system to a 12 volt alternator powered system. It has given good service ever since. If anyone is interested, speak up now and we will do this online, otherwise we can make it a private conversation. Reply to "rmeier connect.net" and we will get started.
Regards,
Roger Meier




------------------------------
>From mmiller dryden.net Thu Apr 3 22:16:50 1997 From: "Mitch Miller" Subject: re: Temp guage
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

My '88 Bronco always read low, until the guage broke. The new guage reads right where I would expect it to ride. Moral is: figure out where it normally sits and if everything works fine, don't worry unless it changes.
Then check the guage if everything else is fine.

Mitch Miller
mmiller dryden.net




















------------------------------
>From rmeier connect.net Thu Apr 3 22:41:55 1997 From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: AC conversion
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Dave writes:
>I would be very leary on a kit that only costs $60. From what I >understand,
>there is more to it than just O rings and a few other parts. The
>compressor, for instance, may also have to be changed, along with the
>accumulator, temperature control setting module if equipt, and probably
>about a couple hundred more dollars.

For $60 bucks you are absolutely correct, you are not going to get a kit that will allow you to use the R134 that the new vehicles use. However they may be selling a kit that uses an R12 replacement that has operating characteristics close to those of R12 (I believe Quaker State or some oil company is marketing it). About the only changes needed would be to change the charging connectors to a new style that will not connect to freon hoses. The downside of this stuff is that I have been told it is butane based, and if so, it is quite flammable. I would not wish to drive around with 250 psi butane circulating around in rubber hoses inside my car. I would suggest a little more fact gathering about this kit before you jump on it. Let us kow what you find out.
Regards,
Roger Meier




------------------------------
>From davnport gfherald.infi.net Fri Apr 4 00:05:46 1997 From: Trent Davenport Subject: Re: Air Conditioner Conversion To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

R o y wrote:
>
> I am contemplating the conversion of my Ford truck from freon 12 to the
> new refrigerant as used in new vehicles. A local parts store sells a
> conversion kit for about $60.
>
> This kit contains new oil, O-ring seals and service valves.
>
> Has anyone did such a conversion? Did it cool OK? Any problems?
>
> The parts man said you have to flush the system but he didn't know how
> that would be done. How would this be done?
>
> I realize any remaining freon would have to be removed for recycling.
>
> Any information on this would be appreciated.
>
> Roy
> rotto juno.com
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com Go for the conversion. What you need to do is find a shop that can recycle the R-12. All the hype of this being a big project is over.
Mixing of the refrigerants is not the problem. The oil used is what causes most of the problems with AC conversions. Plain and simple, Just do it. $60 is pretty cheap!
93 Ford F150 4x4
57 Ford Fairlane 500 / 390 FE
66 F100 / 390 FE
41 Ford Truck
77 KZ650
96 Grand AM (it's the wifes)


------------------------------
>From karlc cnsii.com Fri Apr 4 01:49:36 1997 From: Karl Cunningham Subject: Re: 292 Y-blocks
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 09:36 PM 4/3/97 -0500, Mat Baker wrote:
>It may be larger because of being 4X4. My '64, '63 F250, and my '61
>F100 all have 10" clutches, and the '66 I parted out for the 4X4 parts
>had a 390FE, NP431 Tranny, and a 11" clutch, the same as our '72 F250.

I had a chance to look it up...

F100, F250 6-cyl 2wd 10.0"
F100, F250 8-cyl 2wd 10.5"
F100, F250 6, 8-cyl 4wd 11"

This data is from my 1960 Ford Shop Manual. When I bought the truck it had a 223" 6-cyl w/11" clutch. I changed to 292" and kept the same clutch.


Karl Cunningham
karlc cnsii.com
1960 F250 factory 4x4 w/292


------------------------------
>From mbaker slate.mines.edu Fri Apr 4 04:03:51 1997 From: Mathew Baker Subject: Re: 292 Y-blocks
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Karl Cunningham wrote:
>
> At 09:36 PM 4/3/97 -0500, Mat Baker wrote:
> >It may be larger because of being 4X4. My '64, '63 F250, and my '61
> >F100 all have 10" clutches, and the '66 I parted out for the 4X4 parts
> >had a 390FE, NP431 Tranny, and a 11" clutch, the same as our '72 F250.
>
> I had a chance to look it up...
>
> F100, F250 6-cyl 2wd 10.0"
> F100, F250 8-cyl 2wd 10.5"
> F100, F250 6, 8-cyl 4wd 11"
>
> This data is from my 1960 Ford Shop Manual. When I bought the truck it had
> a 223" 6-cyl w/11" clutch. I changed to 292" and kept the same clutch.
>
> Karl Cunningham
> karlc cnsii.com
> 1960 F250 factory 4x4 w/292

Maybe they changed it in '61 w/ the new body style for the 2wd, and I might have measured wrong too. :)

Mat Baker
64' F-250


------------------------------
>From rlr bbt.com Fri Apr 4 10:39:24 1997 Sender: rlr bbt.com
From: Rader
Subject: Re: Air Conditioner Conversion To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> > I am contemplating the conversion of my Ford truck from freon 12

> Go for the conversion. What you need to do is find a shop that can
> recycle the R-12. All the hype of this being a big project is over.
> Mixing of the refrigerants is not the problem. The oil used is what
> causes most of the problems with AC conversions.

Be careful with Net advice. Incompatibilities between PAG and mineral oils is not the only problems you face with the R12->R134a conversion.
There are technical problems mixing R12 with R134a, and serious legal repercussions if you get caught mixing refrigerants and the contamination makes it's way into the recycled R12 supply.

I have not researched the drop-in R12 replacements (except for R-406A (aka GHG-12)), but it is true that other alternatives to the R134a conversion exist.

Conversions are most definitely worthwhile, just follow all directions and do it right.

Ron "MACS" Rader


------------------------------
>From Kalohe ctwok.com Fri Apr 4 12:15:42 1997 From: Kalohe ctwok.com
Subject: Lights
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com....


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