>respectively) we have similar temperature gagues. On mine, when the truck
>is happy and normal, the gague is rock solid on the n in normal. Once, this
>winter, when plowing a road with my bumper (we had record snowfall in
>Victoria this winter -- broke every existing record by far) my gague went up
>to the o, and I was becoming concerned. Is there any reason at all to be
>concerned about the operating temperature of the engine if it is anywhere
>below the red, which is way off to the right of the scale, or should I be
>concerned when it reaches, say, the m in normal. By my experience, there
>would have to be something pretty far wrong to make the temperature go up
>that far, and if it were to go up that far I would imagine a coolant fault
>of some sort, but my question is still the same -- is the temp nothing to be
>worried about in the whole normal range? Or is it some sort of
>psychological thing -- keeping the temperature on the low side of the gague
>range so that you are never concerned?
>___
>TTTTT OO M M The sixth sick shiek's sixth sheep's sick. |~~~|
> T O O MM MM o o
> T O O M M M Be young, have fun, *
> T OO M M and drink lots of beer!!! `-'
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
>


------------------------------
>From jstrigas worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 2 09:17:37 1997 From: "Jim" Subject: Re: F-100 vs F-150
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

1974 I remember it well. what do I win? OK 75. 6?

----------
> From: PonyTom aol.com
> To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
> Subject: F-100 vs F-150
> Date: Tuesday, April 01, 1997 4:30 AM
>
> Hi Fordtrucker's,
>
> My $.02 on the subject of F-100 vs F-150 , is That in the other 49 states
> when unleaded fuel became mandatory for all auto's, they also included half
> ton pickup trucks. All trucks bigger than that were exempt, and could burn
> leaded Gasoline. Hence the need for a slightly heavier truck than half ton,
> so they created the five-eighths ton pickup. Even after the fuel situation
> changed, the size truck was so popular, that Ford kept making them.
> Can anyone name that year?
>
> On the subject of **GM** freaks calling our beloved names.....My favorite
> is
> All it takes to stop a heartbeat is one little snake bite.
>
> Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
> '78 E-350.....12,000# GVW
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com


------------------------------
>From carogers mtu.edu Wed Apr 2 09:57:13 1997 From: Christopher Rogers Subject: Re: Need info on Shocks!
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

KYB makes good shocks, however, they tend to be a little stiffer.

Chris


------------------------------
>From jstrigas worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 2 10:11:50 1997 From: "Jim" Subject: Re: car wash, wax
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

OK here's mine, an old Marine trick, taught to me by an old Marine. 1/8 cup of kerosene in a bucket of water. It takes off the dirt even road tar and doesn't harm the paint. After it dries it even looks polished water beads up and it's the easiest way I've ever washed a car. No people that call their truck Baby may not want to clean it this way but I swear I've never seen it harm a paint job. Has anyone else ever tried this?
As far as wax goes, I was told by an Auto Body shop that wax is bad for paint. To use polish. He recommended NU-Finish as the best. No build-up. As far as my truck goes I hope if I can build up enough oxidation it will cover the ugly___ Forest Ranger Green paint that's on it!

Jim Strigas jstrigas worldnet.att.net
"73" Ford F100 (piece a %*&#^ Love it, I Just Love it!) "89" Ford Aerostar (a Frameless Hussy, But a good ol Gal.) "83" Yamaha XJ900RK (Best Gift of my life! From my best friends! RSCL) "86" Honda GoldWing GL1200 (OK, this part goes here, and this... this... I think goes on the truck.)

Be Cool Daddy-O {B-)>





------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Wed Apr 2 10:16:33 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: re: Temp gague
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>> Tom 04/02/97 12:46am >>>
>On my truck, and my Dad's truck (94 F150 4x4 300, 81 F250 2x4 351m
>respectively) we have similar temperature gagues. On mine, when the truck
>is happy and normal, the gague is rock solid on the n in normal. Once, this
>winter, when plowing a road with my bumper (we had record snowfall in
>Victoria this winter -- broke every existing record by far) my gague went up
>to the o, and I was becoming concerned. Is there any reason at all to be
>concerned about the operating temperature of the engine if it is anywhere
>below the red, which is way off to the right of the scale, or should I be
>concerned when it reaches, say, the m in normal. By my experience, there
>would have to be something pretty far wrong to make the temperature go up
>that far, and if it were to go up that far I would imagine a coolant fault
>of some sort, but my question is still the same -- is the temp nothing to be
>worried about in the whole normal range? Or is it some sort of
>psychological thing -- keeping the temperature on the low side of the gague
>range so that you are never concerned?

If the temp goes up to the high end on a cold day, ***turn it off immediately***!!!!!! The reason this happens is that there is ice somewhere plugging up the water flow. If you run the truck like this you can crack the head! The reason is that when the ice plug lets go a very large amount of very cold coolant flows through a very hot engine - crack. After turning off the engine, try working the hoses with your hands to see if there is ice in it. The best thing to do when this happens it to turn it off, let it sit a couple minutes, turn it back on for about 30 seconds to get coolant moving (if it can), let it sit again, and keep repeating the process until it goes down. I've had a very close call with my truck on a cold day, and years ago I crack the head on a 302 in a Mustang.



------------------------------
>From HURDJ VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU Wed Apr 2 10:34:32 1997 From: JIM HURD Subject: Re: Temp gague
X-VMS-To: IN%"FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com"
X-VMS-Cc: HURDJ
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Tom,
FWIW, my temp gauge needle usually sits just between the "r" and "m" in normal with the 192 degree thermostat.

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)


------------------------------
>From HURDJ VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU Wed Apr 2 10:40:42 1997 From: JIM HURD Subject: Re: car wash, wax
X-VMS-To: IN%"FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com"
X-VMS-Cc: HURDJ
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Jim,
FWIW, my father-in-law *always* added a little kerosene to car wash water. It did a nice job. (Of course, this was in the 60's and 70's!
Paint has changed a lot since then.)

Jim in central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)


------------------------------
>From Toms bmi.net Wed Apr 2 10:43:14 1997 From: Tom Steggell II
Subject: Re: ford f100 f150
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 03:43 PM 3/31/97 -0500, you wrote:
>What is the difference between the F100 and the F150. I'm the new owner of a
>1975 F100 with a 390.
>
>---------------------------------------------------------

The f150 is a heavy duty 1/2 ton.... the F100 is just a 1/2 ton




toms bmi.net



------------------------------
>From mbaker slate.mines.edu Wed Apr 2 12:18:57 1997 From: Mathew Baker Subject: Re: 57 292 spark plugs
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Glenn Rogers wrote:
>
> Hello
>
> I've got a 57 Ranchero I bought from the original owners wife in 93,
> (original owner passed away) that had a remanufactured engine installed
> in 1963. When I brought it home I did a base line tuneup, the
> sparkplugs were autolite 295, which is a small thread dia plug. All
> the older fords I ever had were large thread dia. This is not the plug
> called for in any Ford manuals I can find. Per the guys at the local
> parts shop this plug is for a lawnmower, although they seem to work OK.
>
> It is a Ford engine, becasue other 292 things I've bought for it fit,
> just strange plugs. I thought it may be a 312??
>
> I'm pulling the engine/trans for overhaul right now and will see what
> the machine shop says.
>
> Anyone have a clue on what I may have here?
>
> Thanks
> Glenn
>

Check if anti-foulers have been put into the head. You will see them as a seperate piece that has been screwed into the spark plug holes. I ran into this on a '64 F-100 292. What casting code do you have on the block and heads? If it is an ECZ-? code it designates Thunderbird components. ECZ Heads can be ported beauitfully, and if you have an ECZ block you have either a 292 or possibly a 312 Thunderbird engine.

Mat Baker
'64 F-250 4X4 292 Thunderbird Y-block
'56 Fairlane 312 Thunderbird Y-block


------------------------------
>From rcollins micron.net Wed Apr 2 12:32:37 1997 From: Randy Collins Subject: RE: was car wash, wax Now Paint Types Explained To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hello all,

I am a paint/corrosion person by profession and I though I would through = in my .02 about modern paint systems. =20

I cannot comment about the best product to clean and polish your car or = trucks paint but I can tell you what won't harm it. =20

The finish on your Ford is an epoxy primer with a urethane finish coat. = Most household chemicals and cleaners that folks would have access to = won't harm the urethane finish. =20

I can't tell you what kind of a look you would get if you follow the = recommendation for a kerosene as a cleaner polish but it won't harm the = finish in any way. The only household chemical that comes to mind that = might do harm is bleach. I wouldn't recommend it. Kerosene would do a = very good job removing road tar. So do other solvents such as: Xylene, = MEK and Lacquer Thinner. The new citrus cleaners (they smell like = oranges) do a good job of removing road tar I have tested these = chemicals on my cars and trucks finish and they don't soften or de-gloss = the finish.. Most of the chemicals I mentioned will also remove you = local highway districts road striping paint if you are unfortunate = enough to run over a wet stripe. IF YOU CHOOSE TO TRY ANY OF THE ABOVE = MENTIONED SOLVENTS AS "SPOT" CLEANERS ALWAYS TEST THEM ON A SMALL AREA = OF PAINT FIRST AND ALSO USE THEM IN SMALL QUANTITIES. REALLY BE SUPER = CAUTIOUS IF YOU TRY TO USE THEM ON PLASTICS OR RUBBER. DO NOT USE THESE = CHEMICALS TO WASH YOUR VEHICLE. USE ONLY AS SPOT CLEANERS FOR STUBBORN = MATTER. =20

For cleaning I would recommend a soap. Like dawn dish wash soap. No = matter how you choose to wash you paint defiantly use some type of soap = and lots of it. The function of a soap is two fold. The firs use is to = help break up and remove contaminants from the paint film. The next = function is to suspend the foreign matter from the paint film to the = soap > reducing abrasion on your finish coat. =20

The use of waxes on a modern film isn't as important as it was 20 or 30 = years ago. Prior to this time period manufactures used alkyd type oil = based finishes as a finish paint. These coatings tend to fade and chalk = quite rapidly when expected to the ultra-violet rays of the sun. During = this era the use of waxes was mandatory to keep the finish looking good. = I believe the role of wax and other protectants plays on a modern paint = finish has changed. Now the primary function would be to leave a film = on the paint finish to reduce abrasion and if the protectant contains = ultraviolet blockers or inhibitors it would also extend the life of the = finish. It also could be said that by having a film of wax on the paint = the contaniments could attach themselves to the wax film and then the = wax could extend the life of the paint by isolating the contaminents = from the urethane finish. =20

One more comment. Stay away from steam. Most paints will with stand = approximately 160 to 180 degrees F. Many coatings don't tolerate "wet = heat" very well. It is best to stick with cool or warm water. =20

Randy Collins
Ford Project truck Still mostly parts and pieces in the garage




------------------------------
>From mbaker slate.mines.edu Wed Apr 2 12:36:01 1997 From: Mathew Baker Subject: Re: My old '63
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Jesus Cardoso wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone,
>
> The '63 F100 that I have has a 292 V-8 (with the distributor in
> the back, is this common?

Your friends at the parts house don't know what they are doing. The 292 was the Most common engine for '61-'64 trucks. The onle other engine available from the factory for those years was a 223 cid 6-cyl.
It (the 223) is a good engine but very weak for a work truck, so it is very uncommon since people bought trucks to work them back then. The 292 is one of the best work engines Ford has ever built. It is a tourque monster, and an extremely strong and beefy motor. If you (anybody!) have any questions about y-blocks, I will try to help. My family has been running these engines since '56, and currently are driving 4 of them.

Mat Baker
'64 F-250 4X4 292 Y-block


------------------------------
>From PonyTom aol.com Wed Apr 2 12:46:53 1997 From: PonyTom aol.com
Subject: Kerosine
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Fordtrucker's,

Just couldn't resist commenting on the kero for washing automotive finishes. It probably does work, as the kerosine is the main ingrediant in road tar remover, just sounds a bit country.
My father-in-law used glycerin, and if he didn't like the way it came out, he just kicked the car.

Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
'78 E-350


------------------------------
>From marko helix.net Wed Apr 2 13:05:50 1997 From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: re: Temp gague
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>>> Tom 04/02/97 12:46am >>>

Hi Tom.

All this talk of ice plugs in the rad got you worried?

Don't be! You live in Victoria. I know how cold it was on the days you mentioned, barely below freezing, if that. (about 30 deg. for our US friends).

You are probably running the warmer, not the cooler thermostat, being as you are in Canada. This is normal and nothing to worry about, altho the hotter thermostat is more appropriate for places like Edmonton, or Dawson City (or Des Moines, for that matter). But!! This would also mean that, esp. in the 94 which I would assume still has the stock antifreeze, that you are running probably 100% glycol and no water, protection to 40 below on either scale.

When an engine works hard, esp when it is not moving fast, so not achieving high airflow over the rad, it gets warmer. There is just more heat to dissipate. Also, if the truck you were using had an automatic transmission, this would get hot as you were pushing all that snow. This in turn would heat up the transmission cooler located in the radiator, or in front of it, hence warming up the coolant somewhat. Also, if you had a bumper-mounted plow, this would restrict the airflow over the radiator!

Finally, the snow you were plowing, unlike the icing sugar snow that falls in the dakotas, was as heavy as mashed potatoes. I know, I live in Vancouver! The snow here is dense, wet, sticky, and HEAVY. So your truck had to work VERY hard to plow the snow.

The difference from the N to the O in Normal is at MOST 5 degrees Fred, or 2 or so degrees Charlie. This is nothing to worry about. I have towed a Bobcat behind a truck similar to your 94 and it got warmer, maybe up to the M when going uphill and slaving away. Then it receded back to normal as it seems yours did. When you work harder you heat up and so does your truck.
This is perfectly normal, and that's why the word Normal is so long on the gauge.


IF the temperature goes above the A in Normal, maybe above the L, then you probably do have a problem, especially (a) if it spikes quickly, or (b) if it stays there. Otherwise, provided your coolant level hasn't fluctuated severely, your truck hasn't leaked, the temp gauge hasn't maxed out, and you haven't had clouds of steam coming out from under your hood, you have NOTHING to worry about.


marko in Vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4






------------------------------
>From rick adc.com Wed Apr 2 13:06:51 1997 From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: Temp gague
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Ken,
> If the temp goes up to the high end on a cold day, ***turn it off
> immediately***!!!!!! The reason this happens is that there is ice
> somewhere plugging up the water flow. If you run the truck like this
> you can crack the head! The reason is that when the ice plug lets
> go a very large amount of very cold coolant flows through a very hot
> engine - crack. After turning off the engine, try working the hoses
> with your hands to see if there is ice in it. The best thing to do
> when this happens it to turn it off, let it sit a couple minutes, turn it
> back on for about 30 seconds to get coolant moving (if it can), let it
> sit again, and keep repeating the process until it goes down. I've
> had a very close call with my truck on a cold day, and years ago I
> crack the head on a 302 in a Mustang.

This happened to me twice this past winter. My '71 is parked outside all winter and when it gets -25 oF, hoses start to freeze. An easy way to get this is to do what Ken suggested:

Turn it off, wait a minute or two for things to melt and try again.
I didn't really want to get out of the cab so I just sat and listened to the radio.

Also, moving the temperature control on the heater seems to help.
I think chunks of ice from the heater hose get stuck in the cooling system.

Driven to work *without* heat more than once last winter, rick
'66 Mustang garage shelf
'71 F100 *Custom* daily driver
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com Minneapolis


------------------------------
>From NKKG60A prodigy.com Wed Apr 2 13:14:34 1997 From: NKKG60A prodigy.com (MR HARRY I SCHEYER) Subject: Please take me off list
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Please take me off your e-mail list. I am not and will never be a truck owner.
Thank you


------------------------------
>From jhazewinkel EXODUS.VALPO.EDU Wed Apr 2 14:29:18 1997 From: Jeff Hazewinkel Subject: original box from 48 F-5
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I was reading one of my newsgroups and ran across this posting and I thought a few people might find it interesting.

Original box off a 1948 Ford F-5 for sale. Four foot walls with rear dump door. Asking $800.00. All oak wood in great shape.

horsplay concentric.com


Jeff


------------------------------
>From dscreen ix.netcom.com Wed Apr 2 16:21:51 1997 From: "Donald R. Screen" Subject: Re: Just a few questions
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

JIM HURD wrote:
>
> Don,
> Most Ford's with a vacuum advance unit can be adjusted for vacuum advance.
> (You pull the vacuum hose off the vacuum advance can and insert an allen
> wrench in the opening and by turning the allen wrench you effectively change
> the pressure of the internal spring.) That *other* make you are working on
> doesn't have this slick FORD feature. Maybe it has an aftermarket vacuum
> advance can that may have copied this FORD feature.
>
> My best guess is that your part throttle pinging was a result of the bad
> EGR. But replacing the EGR won't fix the problem if the EGR has been bad for
> quite a while. Probably when the EGR failed the EGR port eventually became
> plugged with carbon, to the point that the engine started to ping at part
> throttle. When you changed the EGR valve, did you clean out the EGR ports?
>
> I also like Marvel Mystery oil. To free up the top end with Marvel Mystery
> oil, set the idle up on fast (medium?) idle, maybe 1000-1200 rpm. Run the
> Marvel Mystery oil into the carb without stalling the engine for a minute or
> two. Then increase the flow of the Marvel Mystery Oil (it should be smoking
> out the exhaust pretty good by now) and let the increased flow flood the
> engine out so that it stalls. Shut the ignition off and let the Marvel
> Mystery Oil eat all the carbon and varnish on the valves, valve stems, and
> combustion chambers and top rings for 6-8 hours at least. (I'm not sure
> that I would try this if you use an oxygen-sensor or a catalytic muffler.)
> Then fire it up, but don't jump on the throttle until it burns of the
> Marvel Mystery Oil that has been soaking in the combustion chamber (or it
> will *really* ping!). Then take it out for a little ride and a short WOT
> pull should get ride of the stuff that the Marvel Mystery Oil softened.
> (Just make sure nobody with a nice clean vehicle is behind you.)

Jim,
Thanks...with the tons of auto related materials I've read I don't ever recall
seeing the allen wrench adjustment for the vacuum advance. THANKS!
Always
learning...Just disappointed that it doesn't apply to my Ch*vy.

On the subject of EGR...I am guilty as charged. I did not clean out the EGR ports when
I changed the valve. What would you use to clean the ports? Wire brush...Marvel Mystery Oil
or something else? I believe the EGR valve has been bad for quite some time. I just
bought a vacuum pump to check it and other vacuum related devices.


Thanks for the detailed description of top engine cleaning, will save this message
and give it a try. No O2 sensor on my 1980 Ch*vy. Just bought some new shocks for it an
hour ago. They're a little pass due...17 years old! Yikes..Can you say "Rusted chunks of metal"

Also purchased a new oil seal set for the input shaft of the steering gear box of
my F100 1974 XLT Ranger. The parts guy says if the seal is leaking badly then the bearing next
to the seal has probably worn out and allowed too much movement in that area.
Gonna just change the seal and see what happens. A rebuilt steering gear box for my
truck is $166 at Auto Zone.

Don
Allen, Texas
1974 F100 XLT Ranger 360 FE V8 4300 Motorcraft carb C6 tranny 1980 Ch*vy 3/4 ton Scotsdale C20 350 V8



------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Wed Apr 2 16:52:52 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Email bomb victoms
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Just wanted everyone to know that the
occasional "take me off this ^& %! #%^
list, I didn't want to be on it!!" messages are not caused by problems with the list server. Its caused by low-lifes using the list as a method to email bomb people.
It causes far more headaches for admins (like myself) than the email bomb victoms.
The victom gets hit once, I have to deal with private emails nearly every night
with this crap.


------------------------------
>From duckdon pacific.net Wed Apr 2 20:11:04 1997 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: ford f100 f150
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Tom Steggell II wrote:
>
> At 03:43 PM 3/31/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >What is the difference between the F100 and the F150. I'm the new owner of a
> >1975 F100 with a 390.
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------------
>
> The f150 is a heavy duty 1/2 ton.... the F100 is just a 1/2 ton
>
> toms bmi.net

The F-100 had a lower GVWR than the F-150 (6050). A truck with a GVWR of 6001 or higher didn't need as much smog equipment in California.

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......

65 Ford F-100 4x4
63 Ford F-100 4x4


------------------------------
>From MOBILEDAVE msn.com Wed Apr 2 20:56:48 1997 From: "DAVID MUMMERY" Subject: RE. Need info on shocks
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I have a 1995 F150 4x4. I am going to use the Rancho 9000. They were recomended to me by my Off Road Shop. The reason is that I to use my trucks for many things. Since the 9000's are adjustable it gives you the flexability to do many things. Besides you can get the cab mount controller and make all the adjustments from the cab and on the go. The whole package costs around $350.00 GOOD LUCK


------------------------------
>From canzus seanet.com Wed Apr 2 21:28:49 1997 From: Steve & Rockette Subject: Re: My old '63
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> Your friends at the parts house don't know what they are doing. The
>292 was the Most common engine for '61-'64 trucks. The onle other
>engine available from the factory for those years was a 223 cid 6-cyl.

>Mat Baker

>>>>>>Begin Rant

Sounds like he went to an Al's/Kragan/Schucks/Pepboys type parts disaster store. He should try a small Parts house where he can talk to the owner and/or family member, they know far more about parts than chainstore counter people.

>>>>>>End Rant

Okay, I feel better now...
292 Questions to follow...
What is the valve lash?
What size are the valves?
What is the compression height of the piston?
How much torque do these monsters make?
Does anyone make a better cam?
How big is the clutch?
Anybody make a blower kit? - Just kidding, maybe...
Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox



------------------------------
>From HURDJ VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU Wed Apr 2 22:03:45 1997 From: JIM HURD Subject: Re: was car wash, wax Now Paint Types Explained X-VMS-To: IN%"FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com"
X-VMS-Cc: HURDJ
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Randy,

Thanks for your comments on the "care and feeding" of automotive paints.

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)


------------------------------
>From tyounger gulf.csc.UVic.CA Wed Apr 2 22:31:30 1997 From: Tom
Subject: re: Temp gague
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 01:05 PM 02/04/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>> Tom 04/02/97 12:46am >>>
>
>Hi Tom.
>
>All this talk of ice plugs in the rad got you worried?

Not at all...

>When an engine works hard, esp when it is not moving fast, so not achieving
>high airflow over the rad, it gets warmer. There is just more heat to
>dissipate. Also, if the truck you were using had an automatic transmission,
>this would get hot as you were pushing all that snow. This in turn would
>heat up the transmission cooler located in the radiator, or in front of it,
>hence warming up the coolant somewhat. Also, if you had a bumper-mounted
>plow, this would restrict the airflow over the radiator!
>

Manual transmission, and no, I don't have a plow, other than the bumper skirt which ripped off 'cuz of the snow.

>
>The difference from the N to the O in Normal is at MOST 5 degrees Fred, or 2
>or so degrees Charlie. This is nothing to worry about. I have towed a
>Bobcat behind a truck similar to your 94 and it got warmer, maybe up to the
>M when going uphill and slaving away. Then it receded back to normal as it
>seems yours did. When you work harder you heat up and so does your truck.
>This is perfectly normal, and that's why the word Normal is so long on the
>gauge.


Okay. I didn't know the sensitivity of the gague. It seems Japanese cars' temperatures fluctuate quite a bit, and I kind of assumed the thermostats were similar -- that would mean because of limited fluctuations there would be limited sensitivity. But just 2 charlie between N and O makes me feel just fine.

Thanks.
___
TTTTT OO M M The sixth sick shiek's sixth sheep's sick. |~~~|
T O O MM MM o o
T O O M M M Be young, have fun, *
T OO M M and drink lots of beer!!! `-'




------------------------------
>From NameFrame aol.com Wed Apr 2 23:32:19 1997 From: NameFrame aol.com
Subject: NEW STICKER
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

We have all seen the "Piss on Ford sticker." Now I have created the "Shit on Chevy" sticker. If you would like to obtain a copy of this sticker, send me E-mail at NameFrame AOL.com. Include "sticker" as the subject.


------------------------------
>From usfmdspr E-MAIL.COM Wed Apr 2 23:58:40 1997 From: "RANDY ZEILINGER (RZEILING)" Subject: Re: 82 f100
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

By the time all the two cents worth adds up, someone will be rich...here's mine
I had a 79 300 six w/ 4spd tranny. Clifford headers, replaced intake manifold and re-jetted carb. I drove that truck to death and she always gave me her heart. Even pulled a trailer a few times but not for long hauls and it wasn't that heavy. This truck ran on 33's for a while then on 35's (yeah, I know about the gears *now*) 8-) In any case this truck really worked for me for 100,000 miles of rode hard and put up wet driving. No really, I swamped it in a river.
3 times.
In summary Rich, have your friend get the good aftermarket stuff.

Randy Z.
1996 F-150 S/C 4x4 5.0l 5spd 6inch lift 35's Hypertech chip Jacob's Ignition yada yada yada...

~~~~~~NEVER LET THE FACTS GET IN THE WAY OF A GOOD STORY!~~~~~~ (313) 39-02922 FAX (313) 845-5383 Pager (810) 890-3665 FoMoCo Vehicle Operations Maufacturing Engineer---Powertrain
1999 F-150, F-250, SVE, EXPEDITION and NAVIGATOR trucks.
*** Forwarding note from I2328401--IBMMAIL 04/01/97 17:28 *** Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 17:13:09 -0500 (EST) From: William Enox Subject: Re: 82 f100 To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

RICH ANZALONE wrote:

A friend of mine has an 82 f100 with a 300 and a 4 speed on the
floor. I'm
looking for suggestions on how to increase horsepower without
spending an arm
and a leg. Any suggestions would be appreciated. He wants to use
it to tow
his boat.

Weiand makes a two different 4 bbl intakes for that engine, plus headers are available.
With headers an intake and a small cam weiand claims 115 hp over stock.
I'm not sure what this does to the low end torque for pulling but it's worth a try. JCWhitney carries the intake and headers along with JEGS and PAW. There's also Cliffords but they want more money for their stuff, it maybe better than weiands but I'm not sure.....


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