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>Jesus wrote: > The '63 F100 that I have has a 292 V-8 (with the distributor in > the back, is this common? Chilton only describes it as being in the > front) The exhaust also has a configuration I have never seen (keep in > mind I am new to the classic ford game), the driver's side exhaust "wraps" > around the front of the block and connects to the exhaust in the passenger > side and then goes to the muffler. Right were the two connect there a > valve of sometype, does anyone have any idea what it is for? I am by no means an expert on the 292's, since my truck is a relatively new acquisition for me as well, however, since no one has responded to your message, I thought I would answer a couple of your questions. I've got a '59 292 "Y"-block (as it is referred to) in my '61 F100. Your description of the motor is exactly like my current setup, (distributer and exhaust). I don't know exactly what the valve is for either. There is/was a guy on this list who I asked a bunch of 292 engine questions to a couple of weeks ago, (since he and his family sound like big fans of the motors), but I haven't heard back from him since...hopefully we'll hear from him, and others, too. Hey Mat B. - Are you still out there??? I hope I didn't scare you off with too many questions at once!! ;) Later, Eric ============================= "Happy Days" 1961 F100 Pick'em up Truck w/'59 292 Y-block ============================= ------------------------------ >From williame Subject: Re: C6 tranny To: FORDTRUCKS Chris North wrote: Howdy everyone! I am new to the list and would like to throw out an easy one (I hope). I have a 1978 E250 van with a 351W and a C6 automatic. How do you adjust the shift points/kickdown points? It hangs is first a little too long and won't drop into 3rd under 45 mph unless I am coasting. Between 45 and 55, I have to let up on the gas to get it to shift. Once it shifts, I have to be easy on the gas until I am over 55 or so or it will downshift again. In fact, if I hold the speed and throttle just right, I can get it to shift, downshift, shift, downshift, etc... All shifts are good and solid, no slipping. I replaced the fluid and modulator about 1 1/2 years ago which did a little good, but not much. Sounds like a vacume problem to the modulator. If not enough vacume is getting to it it'll act like that check for leaks in the line then check and see how much vacume your getting at the vacume port where the modulator gets it's pick up at. ------------------------------ >From usfmdspr *** Resending note of 03/25/97 08:47 you wrote: I had an 88 F150 that did the same thing, it is not the motor, but an internal mechanical switch that gets broken because it is plastic. If you can find a good shop they will know this and they can make another out of metal for you. I don't know what it is called, but it will only cost you about $40 and you will never have the same problem. Otherwise you could end up paying about $100 for a new motor with the same plastic switch, which will give out again. They engineer the switch so that it fails and they make money replacing it. Brad E. Brad Marsh President ASCET, President Tau Alpha Pi Careful what you say Mr. Marsh, as an engineer I have never designed a part to fail. There are no engineers that intentionaly desire a failure within their components. FWIW if the internal switch is metal is A) more expensive to produce so B) the cost goes up to the consumer (you) and C) is not subject to corrosion because the unit lives in what is considered a "wet" area. Furthermore the parts are cycle tested for projected lifetime use and use to failure. Statisically speaking, even "perfect" parts will experience some failure within a 6 sigma range. You don't say when your unit failed but 1988 was essentially 10 years ago. Do you still have the same pair of shoes that you had then? Before you throw accusations like the one you did, take a few moments to consider the facts. The opinions expressed are solely my own and not those of any company or organization. Sincerely, Randy "Proud To Be An Engineer" Z. ------------------------------ >From PACEG1 X-VMS-To: in%"fordtrucks To: FORDTRUCKS I got lucky and was and able to look at the TSB's at my local dealer and here is what I found. There is a TSB on a mildew smell in the air system. TSB 96-14-4 Air conditioning musty and mildew odors the procedure was to spray a new disodorizer into the air system using a procedure listed in the TSB (I didn't have enough time to get the whole thing but you had to disable the air compressor and run something to dry the system) But I did get the part # for the disodorizer Part # F6AZ-19G210-AA A/C system disodorizer Operation 961404A Apply disodorizer Time .3hours For a dealer to do it for you not too bad. I hope this helps anyone with a smelly air conditioning system. Glen 96 F-350 4x4 77 F-250 4x4 ------------------------------ >From mmiller To: FORDTRUCKS Ever stopped the old flathead on a hot day and had to crank it over for 10 minutes to get it going again? Have to patiently wait for it to cool off? Never again! Put a squeeze bulb gas line primer (like you use on your outboard boat motor gas line) in the fuel line between the fuel pump and the tank. Just takes a couple squeezes and the carb reservoir fills up, never worry again. Mitch Miller mmiller ------------------------------ >From gypsybill >At 06:45 PM 3/24/97 -0500, you wrote: >>Has anybody ever installed IFS kits from some of the different after >>market manufacter's out there (Fat Fendered Street Rods, Chisholm >>Suspension, etc.). I've got a 64 F100 and was curious how easy a job >>this is to do for a novice restorer. >>I was also curious if anybody has ever tried using disk brakes, or an >>entire from end off a newer F100/F150. >> >>Chris >>carogers Chris, I have a '64 that I put a '77 Plymouth Volarie rolling K-Frame under. The old straight axle frontend was too "bouncy" for me. This project is not for the faint hearted tho'. I got the entire k-frame at a junk yard for $250 (disk brakes, power steering, torsion bar supension), got templates for Bob's F100 parts (where I got the idea from), Borgenson steering u-joints for $100, had to fabricate a motor mount cradle, got the porportioning valve from a late model F150 in the same junk yard and bought a new 1979 master cylinder to work the disk brakes with (manual - no power right now). Also had a good friend who was a journeyman welder. Lot of work, but the end result is great. The whole thing cost me less than $750 including rebuilding the front end and brakes and 3 weekends (12 hours a day). I would give you the templates, but somewhere in my move from Wyoming to Texas, they got lost. The Mustang IFS from Fatman is infinitely easier although the complete set up will double what I paid easily. I have several friends in Colorado and Wyoming who have done the Fatman thing on '55 -'56s and said it was a piece of cake. I would opt for their upper and lower control arms rather than the Mustang II stuff as theirs is tougher. Hope this helps some, Bill '64 F100 Shortbox (wannabe hotrod) '95 Thunderbird (wife's ride) '90 Harley Dresser ------------------------------ >From cardoso To: FORDTRUCKS Hey Ya'll, Does anyone have any ideas on who I should contact for the installation of seat belts in my '63 (dealership, upholstery, ??)? Thanks, Jesus ------------------------------ >From rawbar Subject: Re: Tip: Beating vapour lock/Add Diesel To: FORDTRUCKS Mitch Miller wrote: Ever stopped the old flathead on a hot day and had to crank it over for 10 minutes to get it going again? Have to patiently wait for it to cool off? Never again! Put a squeeze bulb gas line primer (like you use on your outboard boat motor gas line) in the fuel line between the fuel pump and the tank. Just takes a couple squeezes and the carb reservoir fills up, never worry again. Mitch Miller mmiller ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks this is also a very handy idea to use on the diesel motors. my 6.9 had a seperate moisture seperator from the fuel filter and when i would drain the water out and change the filter there was always a little air after pre filling the filter, and the plunger type drain always leaked air into the system. in colder climates, moisture and air in your fuel system will make you want to start using gas motors. i bypassed the fuel seperator and installed a marine seperator that had a replaceable filter, a much better draincock and one of those inline squeeze bubbles to refill the reservoir. never had a problem again. my 7.3 has a built in sererator on the fuel filter that is not only hard to operate it dosent hold much water. i will have the marine system on by next winter for sure. rick http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.rawbar.com 66 F750 10ton dump 67 IH 1000 p.u. 220BD 70 MF crawler 3cyl perkins diesel > 71 BMW MC R60/5 78 F350 400 4spd 83 MB 300CD 5cyl diesel > 87 Bronco 300-6, 3spd 89 F250 4x4 7.3 looking for 50 F1or2 (original) ------------------------------ >From emarsh >Careful what you say Mr. Marsh, as an engineer I have never designed a part > >to fail. I am also an engineer, and I know that the life of a component is inversely proportional to the cost, therefore to save money some things are made "cheaper" which results in a lower life span for the part. This is my point, a byproduct of lower cost is less life, but since the cost is passed on to the consumer when the part must be replaced, more money is made by the compay. This is "good" engineering, not the type that Good engineers want, but the type that "good" manufaturers want. >There are no engineers that intentionaly desire a failure within >their components. FWIW if the internal switch is metal is A) more expensive to >produce so B) the cost goes up to the consumer (you) and C) is not subject to >corrosion because the unit lives in what is considered a "wet" area. > The steel switch would only cost a little more to produce, since GM makes the switch out of steel why does Ford make it out of plastic? >Furthermore the parts are cycle tested for projected lifetime use and use to >failure. Statisically speaking, even "perfect" parts will experience some >failure within a 6 sigma range. > >You don't say when your unit failed but 1988 was essentially 10 years ago. Do >you still have the same pair of shoes that you had then? My unit failed in '94, and I suspect that since Iwas not the original owner, it had happened before. > >Before you throw accusations like the one you did, take a few moments to >consider the facts. > >The opinions expressed are solely my own and not those of any company or >organization. > >Sincerely, >Randy "Proud To Be An Engineer" Z. > > Good for you, "I am also proud to be one", but I also know that all decisions are not made by engineers. So cool off. Brad E. Brad Marsh President ASCET, President Tau Alpha Pi ------------------------------ >From usfmdspr To: FORDTRUCKS AH! A good engineering argument follows, use the delete key now. Brad, I don't disagree with cheaper=lower life span, but the 1988 part lasted 6 years when its base design had a life expectancy of 3-5 years. The part was designed in the early 80's for all intents and purposes. I'd say you got the full life of that part. You are correct in saying that there are other factors in determining the materials used in components. The bean counters have entirely too much say in what gets used. Perhaps GM engineers have better arguments ;-) however, they do use plastic springs for Corvette suspension if I recall correctly. Last but not least, most engineers (myself included) will usually "warm" to an arguement, er discussion..... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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