Date: Mon, 24 Mar 1997 11:37:55 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
From: digest-proc lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0029
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Volume 97 Number 0029 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

Re: 71 f250 kingpins
Re: Garage work?
Re: Problems in early 90's F250?
Re: Re: Headers for '77 F100
Electric window question.
Motor Oil
Electric window question.
Electric window question.
Re: A/C musty smell (Robert)
Re: Re: Re: Headers for '77 F100
Fuel Tank switch
Re: Chuck's diesel inquiry.
Electric Window Question Possibility
Re: diesel truck info...
Re: diesel truck info...
Re: Bummed about lugs; and relief
Re: Summit Headers
Electric Window Question Possibility
Electric Window Question Possibility
Re: '88 Ford Bronco II
Re: Problems in early 90's F250?
Re: Garage work?
Re: Motor Oil
Re: Bummed about lugs; and relief


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

--------------------------------------------------

>From nfinney earthlink.net Mon Mar 24 01:35:43 1997 From: Nick Finney Subject: Re: 71 f250 kingpins
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>
> My manual says something about shims, and about bearing preload. Here's
> where I'd like some explanation:
>
> "Install the old shims for a trial build-up. Torque the bearing cap
> bolts or stud nuts to 25 ft. lbs. Check the steering knuckle bearing
> preload. It should be 60-120 in. lbs. Adjust the shim thickness at the
> bearing caps, as required, to obtain the proper pre-load."
>
> I have both a ft lb and an in lb torque wrench, so doing the actual job
> isn't a problem. I want to know if preload means the energy it takes to
> turn the steering knuckle at the cap by turning with an in-lb torque wrench.
> I think it does. Would anybody tell me if using thicker shims means less
> preload, or more?
>

If you use a smooth turning motion on the inch pound T/W it should register approx 60 - 120 inch pounds of effort to turn the torque wrench, you you almost the same procedure to determine the bearing preload on a pinion gear.

More shims may or may not mean more preload - sorry but I just have a 4X2 (for now).

If you are placing shims behind the bearing caps this should make the bearings and races
have a tighter fit which would result in a higher reading for preload.

I will also be replacing my kingpins - I plan to add some HD Disc Brake Spindles at the same time.

>
> thanks for your help
>
> marko in vancouver
> marko helix.net
> 71 f250 4x4

--
Nick Finney
nfinney earthlink.net

69 F100 390 FE
Formerly:
66 Ford Mustang FASTback 289.

First On Race Day!


------------------------------
>From wiandt vnet.net Mon Mar 24 08:53:32 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: jimi.vnet.net: ACCS-AS18-DP09.ATLN.grid.net [206.80.183.202] didn't use HELO protocol From: Larry Wiandt
Subject: Re: Garage work?
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 09:24 PM 1997/03/21 -0500, you wrote:
>Has anyone else heard the rumors of the government outlawing mechanic
>work unless done in certified shops? I heard This rumor and it
>shocked me. I like to work on cars just for the fun of it. It's one
>of my biggest hobbies. If anyone has heard any more about this let
>me know.
>

Actually I read a couple of years ago that the EPA has tossed around the idea of sealing hoods os that the consumer couldn't get into the engine campartment. But they were talking about new production.


------------------------------
>From wiandt vnet.net Mon Mar 24 09:02:39 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: jimi.vnet.net: ACCS-AS18-DP09.ATLN.grid.net [206.80.183.202] didn't use HELO protocol From: Larry Wiandt
Subject: Re: Problems in early 90's F250?
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 10:14 AM 1997/03/22 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Chuck:
>
>I worked for a small excavating co. and have some considerable experience
>with diesels, altho mostly big ones (cummins, cat). Be sure to buy a truck
>with proper maintenance records.
>
>Yes, the Shell Rotella T is quite a good oil. Change it as often as the
>manual says. The usual grade is 15-40.
>

I have never heard of Shell Rotella T, I assume it is made by Shell Oil Co.
I have been using Pennzoil in my truck since it was new and have about 31,000 miles on it now. Should I change or is Pennzoil ok to use?



------------------------------
>From gypsybill usa.net Mon Mar 24 09:38:51 1997 From: "Bill Rotureau" Subject: Re: Re: Headers for '77 F100
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Garry wrote:

>>I belive that some one offered headers for 77 up with 351m-400equiped
>>trucks. Try calling Jegs or Summit, and asking them. Hedman, Hooker,
>>or Doug`s come to mind right off. You might have to call factory
>>direct, ask for tech line. They usually are very helpful.

Thanks,

I will give them a try - Summit has a site so I will try an drop them a message as nothing appears in their current catalog (Jegs neither), but I have called them before and got good results. I got Hedman for my '64 with a 302 in it and only had some minor crossmember alterations to do.

Bill..

'64 F100 Shortbox (wannabe hotrod)
'95 Thunderbird (wife's ride)
'90 Harley Dresser


------------------------------
>From wrd pacbell.net Mon Mar 24 09:40:40 1997 From: wrd pacbell.net
Subject: Electric window question.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Boys and Girls:

The driver's side electric window on my '91 F-150 gave up the ghost last month. At least it died in the up position. The fuse checks OK and with the scores of burned out electric motor stories I've heard from other Ford truck owners, I gotta figure that's the problem. Any idea out there if this is a relatively easy job or should I take it to the shop?
Can the motors be rewound or should a new one be installed?

Thanks in advance.

Randy
Sandy Eggo, CA
120,000 miles and never spent the night in the shop. :-)


------------------------------
>From PonyTom aol.com Mon Mar 24 09:59:42 1997 From: PonyTom aol.com
Subject: Motor Oil
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Fordtrucker's,

I'm new to the list....just got on last night, so hello to all.
On the subject of Motor Oil , I am quite opinionated, as my opinion is...As long as you change the oil every 3,000 miles the odds of a bearing failure due to lack of lubrication are minimal...obviously excluding the possibility of a leak.
I don't think changing brands is a good idea, as a small portion of the old oil remains in the engine....case in point ...a neighbor with a bronco changed his brand of oil....started to foam, and he traded the truck off less than a month later.


Tom Maguire Near Dayton OH
'59 Ranchero
'56 Customline
'72 Mustang
'69 lincoln........suicide


------------------------------
>From usfmdspr ibmmail.com Mon Mar 24 10:06:44 1997 From: "RANDY ZEILINGER (RZEILING) e-mail(usfmdspr ibmmail.com)" Subject: Electric window question.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Same thing happened to my 90 F-150. I suggest replacing the actuator motor.
You will have to grind or drill the rivets that hold it to the door. If you have the tools its not too hard to do. IMHO its better to simply replace the unit instead of trying to R&R it.

Good luck, Randy Z.

~~~~~~NEVER LET THE FACTS GET IN THE WAY OF A GOOD STORY!~~~~~~ (313) 39-02922 FAX (313) 845-5383 Pager (810) 890-3665 FoMoCo Vehicle Operations Maufacturing Engineer---Powertrain
1999 F-150, F-250, SVE, EXPEDITION and NAVIGATOR trucks.
*** Forwarding note from I2328401--IBMMAIL 03/24/97 09:58 *** Date: Mon, 24 Mar 1997 09:40:40 -0500 (EST) From: wrd pacbell.net Subject: Electric window question.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Boys and Girls:

The driver's side electric window on my '91 F-150 gave up the ghost last month. At least it died in the up position. The fuse checks OK and with the scores of burned out electric motor stories I've heard from other Ford truck owners, I gotta figure that's the problem. Any idea out there if this is a relatively easy job or should I take it to the shop?
Can the motors be rewound or should a new one be installed?

Thanks in advance.

Randy Sandy Eggo, CA 120,000 miles and never spent the night in the shop. :-)


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>From JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM Mon Mar 24 10:08:54 1997 From: JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM
Subject: Re: A/C musty smell (Robert)
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>1) Extreme musty smell when A/C has been ran and then truck parked for
>several hours. (Dealer has pulled condenser and cleaned....they said)
>
>2) Squealing serpentine belt until engine warm. Is this a sign of the
>problem I heard about idler pulleys or just a thing to live with.
>
>Robert

Hi Robert,

I believe there is a TSB out on the musty A/C smell. Check www.alldata.com or ask your dealer to search the TSBs. I think the one I read was for a '96 but of course it will probably still apply to your truck.

Sorry if this is a stale reply, I was out of the office Friday.

Regards,
Jon and the Big Red One
in Houston


------------------------------
>From gypsybill usa.net Mon Mar 24 10:16:01 1997 From: "Bill Rotureau" Subject: Re: Re: Re: Headers for '77 F100 To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Found the headers at Jegs - DynoMax for $81.99.

Thanks to all..


Bill

'64 F100 Shortbox (wannabe hotrod)
'95 Thunderbird (wife's ride)
'90 Harley Dresser


------------------------------
>From wiandt vnet.net Mon Mar 24 10:23:13 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: jimi.vnet.net: ACCS-AS18-DP16.ATLN.grid.net [206.80.183.209] didn't use HELO protocol From: Larry Wiandt
Subject: Fuel Tank switch
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I have a 93 F350 with the twin tanks and I have been wondering about the switch that changes from one tank to the other. I can't help but wonder how long will it be until it fails and when it does fail, how will I know.
I have a diesel in my truck and do not want to run out of fuel because this switch didn't work. Has any one had any trouble with this happening? Is there something I should do or look for?

I wish it had the same setup as the '69 F250 that my dad had years ago with the brass valve on the floor on the drivers side. There was no mistaking that you had switched the tank. Ahh, for the old days...


------------------------------
>From JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM Mon Mar 24 10:24:53 1997 From: JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM
Subject: Re: Chuck's diesel inquiry.

To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>I'm in the process of shopping for an early 90's F250 4X4 with the diesel
> >engine. Are there any problems I should be looking for. I'm especially
>concerned about the engine. I've never owned a diesel before, however I
>have been somewhat convinced to go this route due to the positive feedback
>I have received. Does anybody have any experience with the Powerstroke 7.3
>engine? Good or Bad.

The Powerstroke is a completely different engine from the International 7.3 and is really the T444E. I don't think it was available until 1994 model year.

It is a "new" generation electronically-controlled diesel. If this bothers you from a serviceability standpoint, consider the 7.3 with its mechanical controls and injection. Of course, the T444E honks, and will easily outperform its non- turbocharged counterpart.

>Realistically, what sort of gas mileage should I expect?

Not very much, since gas in your fuel will explode your engine! Seriously, expect from the high 14s to 18 or so, depending on load, driving, etc.

>What are the maitenance costs like?

If you don't change your own oil, or do insist on buying Ford parts, expect to go broke at the time of the first oil change. Otherwise, you can buy fuel and lube oil filters at International truck dealerships for *much* less and you can buy Rotella-T or Delo by the gallon for about $4-5 at Wal-Mart.

>
>I would appreciate any feedback anyone has to offer.

Regards,
Jon and the Big Red One
in Houston


------------------------------
>From kulige vitro.bloomington.in.us Mon Mar 24 10:30:15 1997 From: kulige vitro.bloomington.in.us
Subject: Electric Window Question Possibility To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hey Randy, et al,

Another possibility could be the wires between the door and lower A-pillar, by the hinges. Does your truck have this taped-bundle of wires? If so, you can perform an easy check by feel while flexing this cabled bundle. Since you said it is the driver's door window, you may not be getting power to the window drive unit, and no sense taking the door apart without checking the easy stuff first! (Now if _I_ would only remember that advice when _I'm_ troubleshooting!!!!)
; )

Few years ago, my sister's car lost control of various power accessories from the driver's door control panel. I found that the culprit was that these wires had flex- ed so many times that the stranded copper AND even the insulation was broken in half. I used the crimp tube-type connectors to repair the damaged wires, and re-taped the overall wire cabling neatly. This fix still is fully functional after 3+ years.

Hope this helps!

Eric
=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================


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>From JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM Mon Mar 24 10:30:48 1997 From: JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM....

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