|
|
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 21:44:14 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest From: digest-proc Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0025 Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS Volume 97 Number 0025 fordtrucks Digest Today's Topics: Re: T-Birds Re: Tonnage... Re: discontinued vehicles Re: discontinued vehicles Lets try to keep the discussion Ford truck related. Re: Back up lights& other ?s Re: Back up lights& other ?s >>> RL 03/19/97 01:32pm >>> Please UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THIS LIST! GET ME OFF THIS MAILING LIST!!!!! Re: Back up lights& other ?s Bronco II ?'s Re: GET ME OFF THIS MAILING LIST!!!!! I hate thieves Re: I hate thieves Re: F-100s Neat web site updates re: 48 truck Re: Ford ranger * PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! * -------------------------------------------------- >From silent.bob Subject: Re: T-Birds To: FORDTRUCKS On Tue, 18 Mar 1997 09:10:29 -0500 (EST) Gregory Sherwin writes: >Hi all, > I haven't been around lately but is it true that Ford is going >to >do away with the Thunderbird. > >Greg >84 F150 4X4 351W >66 Mustang Coupe > yes, its true. And they are also doing away with the Probe, and Arrowstar. Robert .---. .----------- / \ __ / ------ fox / / \(..)/ ----- fox ////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icelair.com //// / // : : --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icelair.com/~fox // / / /` '-- The Best Never Rest // //..\ =======UU====UU===[95 Ranger XLT 2.3L]=[silent.bob '//||\` ''`` ------------------------------ >From JLINETT Subject: Re: Tonnage... To: FORDTRUCKS >I don't remember whether the F-6 was a 2 1/2 or 3 ton truck. In some states >(Kansas being one of them) this designation was used to determine how much the >license plates would cost each year. >Regards, >Roger Meier Hi Roger, Thanks for the info...Texas also uses this on the registration (mine says "1 ton") but I still can't figure out why, since it doesn't jive with published specs. For the F-350, for example, the rated cargo capacity is right around two tons. Regards, Jon and the Big Red One in Houston ------------------------------ >From JLINETT Subject: Re: discontinued vehicles To: FORDTRUCKS >Hi all, > I haven't been around lately but is it true that Ford is going to >do away with the Thunderbird. > >Greg Yes, and the Cougar, Aerostar, and another one I can't recall, also. (Bad sales, so they say...) The T-Bird has been a piece of crap for a long time. IMHO, what they should do is bring out a coupe version of the Crown Vic sedan, and offer it with the police package. It would kind of be an answer to the SS Montes, Impalas, etc. I'm surprised that the Aerostar isn't selling, I thought it was quite popular. Regards, Jon and the Big Red One in Houston ------------------------------ >From GumboBoy Subject: Re: discontinued vehicles To: FORDTRUCKS This is starting to get out of hand folks, there are only 2 vehicles that Ford is stopping production on. The Aerostar - given we've heard this before. The Probe - Loosing another Mazda platform The T-bird is being re-designed into a smaller sportscar. The Cougar is also being re-designed as a possible NASCAR replacement for the T-Bird. This comes directly from CNN. I'll fish out more info from the Ford web-site. Joe ------------------------------ >From payne Subject: Lets try to keep the discussion Ford truck related. To: FORDTRUCKS Lets try to keep the discussion Ford truck related. Fordnatics is a good forum for general Ford discussions. ------------------------------ >From marko Subject: Re: Back up lights& other ?s To: FORDTRUCKS >I got a question concering the back up lights on my 71 F-100. I don't know >much on cars but I plan to learn something. Anyway the lights didn't work >so I bought replacement bulbs. The ones I took out looked like they burned >out as they had the black coating on the inside. I figure either a fuse is >blown or the wiring is bad cause the lights still don't work. I'm going to >replace my driverside fender and door and am wondering what yrs would >work. I can tell the differnt yrs by the looking at the grills and where >the parking lights located. I figure I could use the 68's up to 71's and >myabe a little after that but I'm not for sure. My last question is I was >going to put on an aftermarket tow hitch and was looking around in >Wal-mart and found on but it was only for 1973 and after. Why is that? Did >they change the frame or something? > thanks > Ryan > Ryan: I have a 1971 F250. Do you have a manual transmission? I do, and I had the problem that the reverse light switch wire which plugs into a switch on the trans. (and turns the reverse lights on each time you put the truck in reverse) was unplugged. Check that. Chances are, if the bulb is good and you see no burnt fuses, and the socket is okay, that the switch is unplugged. It's usually that simple. BTW the auto trans has the reverse light switch too. In the manual it's on top under the cover plate in the floor of the cab, on the auto I'm not 100% sure, but look for a circular-type black plug with two wires coming out of it. I think it's located closer to the back of the auto trans, near where the linkage goes in. Also, did the light bulbs come out and go in easily? Check to see that the contacts in the socket are not corroded. Also, the bottom plate in the socket is on a spring and should push in and out smoothly. If not, spray in some wd40 and work the plate until it moves freely. I have a similar problem sometimes with my brake lights, in that they seem to burn out a lot. What happens is water gets into the socket/light assembly. Check for cracks and make sure the light assembly is sealed right. As for the fender and door, 67-72 should work okay, but try to get a 70, 71 or 72 just because, say, the interior panels etc may be a bit different on the earlier ones. Wreckers are filled with these trucks (the steel was very good) so you should'nt have any problem finding. Finally, about the hitch. I think the frames are basically the same. Ford used the same running gear on many trucks until the late 70's. Most likely the reason the listing is from 1973 on (probably 73 to 79) is that in 1973, the body style changed. Look at your door and box; the strength crease down the middle of the door is an "outie". On 1973 and later models, it's an "innie"). Ironically, most of the support stuff, like cab mounts, radiator support, inner fenders, are basically identical from 67 to 76 anyway. So, chances are the frame is identical too. I'm sure that wal mart will give you a refund if it doesn't fit. good luck!!! marko in vancouver 1971 F250 4x4 (360) ------------------------------ >From st0478 Subject: Re: Back up lights& other ?s To: FORDTRUCKS Thanks for all the advice to those who replyed. Yeah it's a 3-speed with a 360. Ok, I've got some more questions about my truck. How much can my F-100 tow? The id tag in the door is missing so I haven't got a clue. It's a Ranger XLT but I guess thats a trim package so don't know if that will help. Question #1: when I go out to start the truck the engine won't stay running. You have to get starting it while giving it gas so you end up reving the engine unitl it stays running. My brother is the mechanic in the house(I plan on learning) and he rebuilt the carb awhile back. I figure that it needs a mannaul choke so it ends up staying open and running. Or is something else wrong? #2: Mine has what looks like a toggle switch near the cargo light knob. Does anyone know what that would go to? It might be aftermarket cause we found where it(the wire) ends in the engine compartment and it produces a low output. #3: I was going to replace the cargo light but when I undid all the screws the light fixture was still in place, it didn't even move. My brother said it was just a gasket and just tear it off. I didn't want to break anything so I put the screws back in. Could it be plastic and also attached in the inside of the cab? #4: For the hose that runs from the the gas cap to the tank do I have to get that from the Ford Dealer? I asked at AAP and he was like we don't carry that. #5: My brother drove my truck for awhile and took it from Nashville, TN to my grandparents in Virgina. He said he had to fill it up 10 times and told me I should replace the 2 barrel with a 4, which would include a new manafold. The engine has got about 150,000+ on it so I'm sure gas mileage isn't to great. He said that a 4 has smaller primaries which would help the mileage. Would that be a good idea? If so where would I be able to find a manafold and 4 barrel? #6: How many Sport pickups did Ford make in the 70's. I've seen acouple ads and my brother thinks they are cool. I think he said they were made in 72. I was just wondering about that. Thats all my questions for now Ryan > Ryan: > > I have a 1971 F250. > > Do you have a manual transmission? I do, and I had the problem that the > reverse light switch wire which plugs into a switch on the trans. (and turns > the reverse lights on each time you put the truck in reverse) was unplugged. > Check that. Chances are, if the bulb is good and you see no burnt fuses, > and the socket is okay, that the switch is unplugged. It's usually that > simple. BTW the auto trans has the reverse light switch too. In the manual > it's on top under the cover plate in the floor of the cab, on the auto I'm > not 100% sure, but look for a circular-type black plug with two wires coming > out of it. I think it's located closer to the back of the auto trans, near > where the linkage goes in. > > Also, did the light bulbs come out and go in easily? Check to see that the > contacts in the socket are not corroded. Also, the bottom plate in the > socket is on a spring and should push in and out smoothly. If not, spray in > some wd40 and work the plate until it moves freely. > > I have a similar problem sometimes with my brake lights, in that they seem > to burn out a lot. What happens is water gets into the socket/light > assembly. Check for cracks and make sure the light assembly is sealed right. > > As for the fender and door, 67-72 should work okay, but try to get a 70, 71 > or 72 just because, say, the interior panels etc may be a bit different on > the earlier ones. Wreckers are filled with these trucks (the steel was very > good) so you should'nt have any problem finding. > > Finally, about the hitch. > > I think the frames are basically the same. Ford used the same running gear > on many trucks until the late 70's. Most likely the reason the listing is > from 1973 on (probably 73 to 79) is that in 1973, the body style changed. > Look at your door and box; the strength crease down the middle of the door > is an "outie". On 1973 and later models, it's an "innie"). Ironically, > most of the support stuff, like cab mounts, radiator support, inner fenders, > are basically identical from 67 to 76 anyway. So, chances are the frame is > identical too. > > I'm sure that wal mart will give you a refund if it doesn't fit. > > good luck!!! > > > marko in vancouver > 1971 F250 4x4 (360) > > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks > For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne > ------------------------------ >From payne Subject: >>> RL 03/19/97 01:32pm >>> To: FORDTRUCKS >>> RL 03/19/97 01:32pm >>> >Thanks for all the advice to those who replyed. Yeah it's a 3-speed >with a 360. Ok, I've got some more questions about my truck. How >much can my F-100 tow? The id tag in the door is missing so I >haven't got a clue. It's a Ranger XLT but I guess thats a trim >package so don't know if that will help. Can't help you with this one, towing capacity is in a book I have at home (I'm at work now). >Question #1: when I go out to start the truck the engine >won't stay running. You have to get starting it while giving it >gas so you end up reving the engine unitl it stays running. My >brother is the mechanic in the house(I plan on learning) and he >rebuilt the carb awhile back. I figure that it needs a mannaul >choke so it ends up staying open and running. Or is something >else wrong? Your diagnosis is correct. Or you could go pick up a automatic thermal choke. >#2: Mine has what looks like a toggle switch near the cargo >light knob. Does anyone know what that would go to? It might be >aftermarket cause we found where it(the wire) ends in the engine >compartment and it produces a low output. Again, the book's at home. >#3: I was going to replace the cargo light but when I undid >all the screws the light fixture was still in place, it didn't even >move. My brother said it was just a gasket and just tear it off. I >didn't want to break anything so I put the screws back in. Could it >be plastic and also attached in the inside of the cab? Just the gasket. >#4: For the hose that runs from the the gas cap to the tank >do I have to get that from the Ford Dealer? I asked at AAP and he >was like we don't carry that. Most of the suppliers on the web page can get you that. Its an antique/NOS item. Ford doesn't carry it anymore. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks >#5: My brother drove my truck for awhile and took it from >Nashville, TN to my grandparents in Virgina. He said he had to fill >it up 10 times and told me I should replace the 2 barrel with a 4, >which would include a new manafold. The engine has got about >150,000+ on it so I'm sure gas mileage isn't to great. He said >that a 4 has smaller primaries which would help the mileage. Would >that be a good idea? If so where would I be able to find a manafold >and 4 barrel? It should help if you can resist the temptation to use the extra power the 4 barrel will give you. You can get the manifold and carb from a junk yard, any 360/390 combo from a car or truck should work. Edlebrock has a new intake carb combo on their home page. Its very high performance and should help the milage too (once again, if your foot isn't lead). >#6: How many Sport pickups did Ford make in the 70's. I've seen >acouple ads and my brother thinks they are cool. I think he said >they were made in 72. I was just wondering about that. I haven't the slightest clue on this one. ------------------------------ >From kirby Subject: Please UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THIS LIST! To: FORDTRUCKS I DID NOT SUBSCRIBE TO THIS THING, PLEASE TAKE ME OFF RIGHT AWAY. At 01:55 PM 3/19/97 -0500, you wrote: >>I got a question concering the back up lights on my 71 F-100. I don't know >>much on cars but I plan to learn something. Anyway the lights didn't work >>so I bought replacement bulbs. The ones I took out looked like they burned >>out as they had the black coating on the inside. I figure either a fuse is >>blown or the wiring is bad cause the lights still don't work. I'm going to >>replace my driverside fender and door and am wondering what yrs would >>work. I can tell the differnt yrs by the looking at the grills and where >>the parking lights located. I figure I could use the 68's up to 71's and >>myabe a little after that but I'm not for sure. My last question is I was >>going to put on an aftermarket tow hitch and was looking around in >>Wal-mart and found on but it was only for 1973 and after. Why is that? Did >>they change the frame or something? >> thanks >> Ryan >> >Ryan: > >I have a 1971 F250. > >Do you have a manual transmission? I do, and I had the problem that the >reverse light switch wire which plugs into a switch on the trans. (and turns >the reverse lights on each time you put the truck in reverse) was unplugged. >Check that. Chances are, if the bulb is good and you see no burnt fuses, >and the socket is okay, that the switch is unplugged. It's usually that >simple. BTW the auto trans has the reverse light switch too. In the manual >it's on top under the cover plate in the floor of the cab, on the auto I'm >not 100% sure, but look for a circular-type black plug with two wires coming >out of it. I think it's located closer to the back of the auto trans, near >where the linkage goes in. > >Also, did the light bulbs come out and go in easily? Check to see that the >contacts in the socket are not corroded. Also, the bottom plate in the >socket is on a spring and should push in and out smoothly. If not, spray in >some wd40 and work the plate until it moves freely. > >I have a similar problem sometimes with my brake lights, in that they seem >to burn out a lot. What happens is water gets into the socket/light >assembly. Check for cracks and make sure the light assembly is sealed right. > >As for the fender and door, 67-72 should work okay, but try to get a 70, 71 >or 72 just because, say, the interior panels etc may be a bit different on >the earlier ones. Wreckers are filled with these trucks (the steel was very >good) so you should'nt have any problem finding. > >Finally, about the hitch. > >I think the frames are basically the same. Ford used the same running gear >on many trucks until the late 70's. Most likely the reason the listing is >from 1973 on (probably 73 to 79) is that in 1973, the body style changed. >Look at your door and box; the strength crease down the middle of the door >is an "outie". On 1973 and later models, it's an "innie"). Ironically, >most of the support stuff, like cab mounts, radiator support, inner fenders, >are basically identical from 67 to 76 anyway. So, chances are the frame is >identical too. > >I'm sure that wal mart will give you a refund if it doesn't fit. > >good luck!!! > > >marko in vancouver >1971 F250 4x4 (360) > > >____________________________________________________________________ >Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ >To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks >For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request >Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne > > > ------------------------------ >From kirby Subject: GET ME OFF THIS MAILING LIST!!!!! To: FORDTRUCKS PLEASE GET KIRBY At 02:32 PM 3/19/97 -0500, you wrote: >Thanks for all the advice to those who replyed. Yeah it's a 3-speed with a >360. Ok, I've got some more questions about my truck. How much can my >F-100 tow? The id tag in the door is missing so I haven't got a clue. It's >a Ranger XLT but I guess thats a trim package so don't know if that will >help. > Question #1: when I go out to start the truck the engine won't >stay running. You have to get starting it while giving it gas so you end >up reving the engine unitl it stays running. My brother is the mechanic in >the house(I plan on learning) and he rebuilt the carb awhile back. I >figure that it needs a mannaul choke so it ends up staying open and >running. Or is something else wrong? > > #2: Mine has what looks like a toggle switch near the cargo light >knob. Does anyone know what that would go to? It might be aftermarket >cause we found where it(the wire) ends in the engine compartment and it >produces a low output. > > #3: I was going to replace the cargo light but when I undid all >the screws the light fixture was still in place, it didn't even move. My >brother said it was just a gasket and just tear it off. I didn't want to >break anything so I put the screws back in. Could it be plastic and also >attached in the inside of the cab? > > #4: For the hose that runs from the the gas cap to the tank do I >have to get that from the Ford Dealer? I asked at AAP and he was like we >don't carry that. > > #5: My brother drove my truck for awhile and took it from >Nashville, TN to my grandparents in Virgina. He said he had to fill it up >10 times and told me I should replace the 2 barrel with a 4, which would >include a new manafold. The engine has got about 150,000+ on it so I'm >sure gas mileage isn't to great. He said that a 4 has smaller primaries >which would help the mileage. Would that be a good idea? If so where would >I be able to find a manafold and 4 barrel? > > #6: How many Sport pickups did Ford make in the 70's. I've seen >acouple ads and my brother thinks they are cool. I think he said they were >made in 72. I was just wondering about that. > > Thats all my questions for now > Ryan > > > >> Ryan: >> >> I have a 1971 F250. >> >> Do you have a manual transmission? I do, and I had the problem that the >> reverse light switch wire which plugs into a switch on the trans. (and turns >> the reverse lights on each time you put the truck in reverse) was unplugged. >> Check that. Chances are, if the bulb is good and you see no burnt fuses, >> and the socket is okay, that the switch is unplugged. It's usually that >> simple. BTW the auto trans has the reverse light switch too. In the manual >> it's on top under the cover plate in the floor of the cab, on the auto I'm >> not 100% sure, but look for a circular-type black plug with two wires coming >> out of it. I think it's located closer to the back of the auto trans, near >> where the linkage goes in. >> >> Also, did the light bulbs come out and go in easily? Check to see that the >> contacts in the socket are not corroded. Also, the bottom plate in the >> socket is on a spring and should push in and out smoothly. If not, spray in >> some wd40 and work the plate until it moves freely. >> >> I have a similar problem sometimes with my brake lights, in that they seem >> to burn out a lot. What happens is water gets into the socket/light >> assembly. Check for cracks and make sure the light assembly is sealed right. >> >> As for the fender and door, 67-72 should work okay, but try to get a 70, 71 >> or 72 just because, say, the interior panels etc may be a bit different on >> the earlier ones. Wreckers are filled with these trucks (the steel was very >> good) so you should'nt have any problem finding. >> >> Finally, about the hitch. >> >> I think the frames are basically the same. Ford used the same running gear >> on many trucks until the late 70's. Most likely the reason the listing is >> from 1973 on (probably 73 to 79) is that in 1973, the body style changed. >> Look at your door and box; the strength crease down the middle of the door >> is an "outie". On 1973 and later models, it's an "innie"). Ironically, >> most of the support stuff, like cab mounts, radiator support, inner fenders, >> are basically identical from 67 to 76 anyway. So, chances are the frame is >> identical too. >> >> I'm sure that wal mart will give you a refund if it doesn't fit. >> >> good luck!!! >> >> >> marko in vancouver >> 1971 F250 4x4 (360) >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________________ >> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ >> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks >> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request >> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne >> > > >____________________________________________________________________ >Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ >To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks >For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request >Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne > > > ------------------------------ >From marko Subject: Re: Back up lights& other ?s To: FORDTRUCKS >Thanks for all the advice to those who replyed. Yeah it's a 3-speed with a >360. Ok, I've got some more questions about my truck. How much can my >F-100 tow? The id tag in the door is missing so I haven't got a clue. It's >a Ranger XLT but I guess thats a trim package so don't know if that will >help. > Question #1: when I go out to start the truck the engine won't >stay running. You have to get starting it while giving it gas so you end >up reving the engine unitl it stays running. My brother is the mechanic in >the house(I plan on learning) and he rebuilt the carb awhile back. I >figure that it needs a mannaul choke so it ends up staying open and >running. Or is something else wrong? Sounds like it. Revving (or pumping) causes the accelerator pump to squirt extra gas into the venturi, richening the mixture and allowing the engine to run cold. You're right, you should put a manual choke on it, or better still if it's an automatic choke just change the choke heater and adjust. > > #2: Mine has what looks like a toggle switch near the cargo light >knob. Does anyone know what that would go to? It might be aftermarket >cause we found where it(the wire) ends in the engine compartment and it >produces a low output. No, that probably wasn't stock. > > #3: I was going to replace the cargo light but when I undid all >the screws the light fixture was still in place, it didn't even move. My >brother said it was just a gasket and just tear it off. I didn't want to >break anything so I put the screws back in. Could it be plastic and also >attached in the inside of the cab? There's a lens, a gasket, a reflector/socket assembly. What exactly do you want to replace? BTW you did the right thing by not tearing it off. Never tear anything. Once you get your catalog from Dennis Carpenter (see #4 below) you'll find a diagram and replacement parts in there. I don't have mine handy so can't advise you further. > > #4: For the hose that runs from the the gas cap to the tank do I >have to get that from the Ford Dealer? I asked at AAP and he was like we >don't carry that. I don't think so, but the best place to get this is at Dennis Carpenter reproductions somewhere in the carolinas. Check the FORDTRUCKS website for details of Carpenter's whereabouts. > #5: My brother drove my truck for awhile and took it from >Nashville, TN to my grandparents in Virgina. He said he had to fill it up >10 times and told me I should replace the 2 barrel with a 4, which would >include a new manafold. The engine has got about 150,000+ on it so I'm >sure gas mileage isn't to great. He said that a 4 has smaller primaries >which would help the mileage. Would that be a good idea? If so where would >I be able to find a manafold and 4 barrel? Whoa, don't get ambitious. Figure out your reverse lights first. I did this on my truck (it's a LOT of work and not for the inexperienced backyard mechanic) but it's gonna cost you. And no, you won't have better mileage, at least not really. The first time you stomp on it you'll see how much more gas that 4bbl pumps. Remember that this truck is HEAVY, the tank is really small, and 360's EAT gas. period. You might want to go down 2 jet sizes in the carburetor, or replace the power valve, but that again is a whole nother story, which I'm not going to get into. Just feed it for the time being, until you go to redo the motor. > #6: How many Sport pickups did Ford make in the 70's. I've seen >acouple ads and my brother thinks they are cool. I think he said they were >made in 72. I was just wondering about that. No idea. I'm afraid. Any of you others know? > > Thats all my questions for now > Ryan marko in vancouver ------------------------------ >From wodackjc-stu To: FORDTRUCKS I've got a few on my Bronco II. #1 I've been thinking about the possibilty of putting a 4 bbl. carb on to replace the original 2 bbl. I was wondering if anyone has done this to their bronco ranger. I've got the 2.8 L V-6. I'd just like know what it entails and around how much it will cost. I'd also like to know of any drawbacks. #2 When I run ythe truck for about 15 min when I put it into reverse the engine kills I haven't been able to figure out what it is. If anyone knows PLEASE!! help me. Jason Wodack '84 Bronco II ------------------------------ >From marko Subject: Re: GET ME OFF THIS MAILING LIST!!!!! To: FORDTRUCKS >PLEASE GET KIRBY > no need to shout..... ------------------------------ >From bigric To: FORDTRUCKS Well, some idiot broke into my '68 F100 today in my school parking lot. They dumped my athletic bag and used it to stow goodies. They also got into my toolbox and used my wirestripper to remove my Pioneer deck. I also lost a cell phone, my CD player, and my favorite CDs which were all anniversary presents from my girlfriend. I swear I'm going to kill the idiot. On top of that, he couldn't even break in right. He used a screwdriver as a lever at the top of the passenger window and popped it out at his feet, damaging the top of the door a little. If you're ever desperate to break into a car, at least have the courtesy to do it right and not screw up the victim's car. Jeez... I did, however, feel better to see that my bag also carried the radios from 3 of my friends' cars in the same lot. Then one of my teacher's cars drove off with the whole load... Just a little hacked. bigric '68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 '66 VW Beetle 1300 bigric ------------------------------ >From kpayne To: FORDTRUCKS At 07:49 PM 3/19/97 -0500, you wrote: >Well, some idiot broke into my '68 F100 today in my school parking lot. >They dumped my athletic bag and used it to stow goodies. They also got into >my toolbox and used my wirestripper to remove my Pioneer deck. I also lost >a cell phone, my CD player, and my favorite CDs which were all anniversary >presents from my girlfriend. I swear I'm going to kill the idiot. On top >of that, he couldn't even break in right. He used a screwdriver as a lever >at the top of the passenger window and popped it out at his feet, damaging >the top of the door a little. If you're ever desperate to break into a car, >at least have the courtesy to do it right and not screw up the victim's car. >Jeez... >I did, however, feel better to see that my bag also carried the radios from >3 of my friends' cars in the same lot. Then one of my teacher's cars drove >off with the whole load... > >Just a little hacked. >bigric >'68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 >'66 VW Beetle 1300 >bigric > Sorry to hear it! What really worries me about my truck (67 F100)is that the ignition doesn't lock the steering and it doesn't take any tools to hot wire it. Just yank the wires, twist them together and go. -Ken Payne 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8 List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions. Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks ------------------------------ >From st0478 Subject: Re: F-100s To: FORDTRUCKS What is the differnce between a F-100 and a F-150, etc. When did the F-100 series get axed? Ryan ------------------------------ >From kpayne To: FORDTRUCKS The web site has changed, be sure to use the "Reload" button on your browser when you visit so you will get the changes. The suppliers page is now grouped according to world regions (so far the only non North American item is in the UK). There is a world map now in place that you click on to see suppliers. I just got a book with about 100 Ford truck parts suppliers so sometime in the future you'll see many more on the pages. You'll need Netscape 2.0+ or Internet Explorer 2.0+ (or any other HTML 2.0+ browser) to properly use the map. There's now a button to download Netscape on the main page, Microsoft button will be in place soon. Note that these aren't making me any money, they are just links for your convience. The forsale/want ad section has a new form to place your ads. This form makes it extremely easy to put an item on the page. I made it so that it sends me email already HTML formated for the ad page so all I have to do is copy, paste and bingo, its there! Ads are free so if you want something or have something for sale feel free to use the form. Also, the web hit counter went past 1,000 this afternoon. It says since Feb 1, 1997 but its actually very inaccurate as I had to estimate hits that occurred before it was in place. The hit statistics from my ISP turned out to be very wrong as they showed about 10 a day when the hit counter is showing 100+. So in reality the count is probably closer to 3000! Anyways, I've got to go, been a very long day.... -Ken Payne 1967 Ford F100 Custom Cab, 390 FE V8 List maintainer, send me comments and suggestions. Visit the Ford Trucks List Web Page (unsubscribe form is there): http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks ------------------------------ >From BDYL75A To: FORDTRUCKS Hi I am new to list. I am restoring a 48 truck and in need of a 48 tailgate.Having no luck in my area of New Hampshire Any help would be appreciated. Jim Wright email-BDYL75A ------------------------------ >From cdkelly Subject: Re: Ford ranger To: FORDTRUCKS Hey just thought I would tell you that I've seen both a 302 and 351 rangers. For more info on the 302 installation, Summit Racing has a Ford Ranger with a 5.0 you could call them for some help. I can't remember the number off hand. On the other hand I went to school with a guy who had a ranger with a 302 in it and didn't do any unordinary modifications, just transmission and rear upgrades. As far as a 351 I almost bought a ranger a couple of years ago with one in it. It was 87 with a 351 cleveland and 69 Mustang rear. It was built by a racing outfit in PA. The only big problem was the steering shaft they had designed headers that the two middle pipes went around the outside and the two on the end stayed under. So in other words the steering shaft was in between the header pipes. Tricky huh! That was fine never had a problem, BUT I always wondered what would happen if you got a weak or broken motor mount. Hope I've been helpful. Chris Kelly 1994 RANGER SPLASH Dynomax cat-back, exhaust computer chip, and k&n air filter 2.3l 5spd On Sun, 16 Mar 1997 13:14:56 -0500 (EST) Chris Daniels writes:.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
|