Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 01:58:26 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
From: digest-proc lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0018
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Volume 97 Number 0018 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

Re: Repair Help
formula for speedo calib. (92 and UP)
Late Model Diesels
78 ranchero 351 windsor
351 WINDSOR
Re: Late Model Diesels
1961 Rim Questions
78 ranchero 351 windsor -Reply
Re: 78 ranchero 351 windsor
RE: 1974 F100 EGR question
1974 F100 EGR question
200 members tonight!
1976 Idle/1974 vacuum and idle
Re: 1976 Idle/1974 vacuum and idle
carb woes
carb woes error
Re: The Vote


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

--------------------------------------------------

>From phlatart artnet.net Mon Mar 10 09:56:41 1997 From: phlatart artnet.net
Subject: Re: Repair Help
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>------------------------------
>>From bigric mail.utexas.edu Sat Mar 8 01:09:25 1997
>Subject: RE: Repair help!!
>To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
>
>**************
>door is smashed, under the vent window on the cab is smashed and part of
>the bed close to the cab is also smashed. Is it wise to have the repair
>guys replace the whole cab instead of fixing it? and does anybody know
>**************
>
>A guy I see every day was rear-ended in his '94 Ch*vy and it actually pushed
>the bed into the cab and messed up the back of the cab pretty good. To
>replace the bumper, the rear half of the exhaust, straighten the frame, weld
>a repair on the frame, and fix the back of the cab was going to be about
>$8000. He opted to do all of the work except fix the cab-he just had it
>repainted to cover where the paint had cracked. It sounds like you're a
>little worse of, but if the door will still seal and the inside of the cab
>is OK (no panels popping off) then I'd just repair the cab. Or start fresh.
>
>Just my $.02.
>
>bigric mail.utexas.edu
>'68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360
>'66 VW Beetle 1300
>bigric mail.utexas.edu

Thanks for the info guys!!
I went to get an estimate at Ford and they placed it at $3,500. Replacing the rocker panel, keeping the interior of the door and replacing the shell, removing parts on the cab and welding in new ones, repairing the side of the bed. They assurred me that they where going to use as little bondo as possible. Then they have to paint from headlight to tail light to keep the color the same.

Most of the cost is in labor and the parts only came to around $1000.
We'll see what the out come is!!!
Tony




------------------------------
>From iedd4 agt.gmeds.com Mon Mar 10 10:48:55 1997 From: iedd4 agt.gmeds.com ( Delray M Dobbins 230-3191 5962) Subject: formula for speedo calib. (92 and UP) X-Sun-Charset: US-ASCII
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Well I went back and checked the correct formula for determining the conversion constant for the speedo in 92 up F-150s it is:

( Tire SAE Avg revs per mile) X (# of teeth on exciter gear
in axle) see note
____________________________________________________________
8000


Note: 7.5 axles have 102 teeth
8.8 axles have 108 teeth
9.75, 10.25, 10.5 and 11.25 axles usually have 120 teeth

For those of you who want to see the conversion constant in your late model F-150:

1) Hold down the RESET button while you turn the ignition
switch to RUN (NOT Crank).

2) the speedo should peg and then return to 0

3) The odometer should display something like EO86
E-English MPH Speedometer
O=Overseas (Metric) Speedometer
8= REvision level....Software??
6=# of times you can reprogram the constant.

4) Press the Reset button again and the odometer
will display your conversion constant.
Should be between 5.0 and 11.0.

Note: the decimal may not be displayed

5) Turn off the ignition.

The above procedure CAN not change yhe programmed constant, You must ground pin #9 on the connector to the speedo housing to actually change the constant.

BTW, As far as I now ONLY 3.08 and 3.55 were available on the 92-96 F-150s. At least thats what the brochure says for my 94.
Exception: the lightnings had 4.10s.


Hope this helps.


Nathan, I will try to fax today (monday)


Regards to all

Delray Dobbins
94 Supercab Flareside 351/3.73/Vortech A-trim, ET 14.90





------------------------------
>From jcthorne flash.net Mon Mar 10 22:55:30 1997 From: "James C. Thorne, P.E." Subject: Late Model Diesels
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>Hi Everyone,

>I'm looking for opinions on the 6.9 and 7.3 ford diesels since I'm
>considering one in a van or possibly a pickup. What I'm hoping for is a tow
>vehicle which can handle a 4500 lb dual axle trailer and which gets better
>mileage than a 460. Another option is a 351W and I'm also wondering if that
>would be adequate. I live in Los Angeles and will be towing a trailer both
>east and north including over Tejon Pass which is usually pretty stressful
>on tow vehicles.

>Thanks for the help.

>Rob


Well you have had two other opinions an I thought I would give you a third from a little
different point of view. I have a 7.3 in an F-350 4x4 Crew Cab. It is a 93 and came
as a normally aspirated mechanical injection diesel. Factory rating was 185HP and
375 ft.lbs. I upgraded the unit with a Banks Sidewinder turbo which ups the power to
275HP and 525ft.lbs. (verified via drag strip times and scale weights). I tow a 45 ft.
goosenek trailer with 2 race cars, tools, tires, lights, coolers, compressor etc for racing
events and out of town car shows. Total weight of rig (truck, trailer, & load) 23,500lbs.
I have been very happy with the truck's performance. Mileage runs 14 empty city, 16 hwy. and
11 with the trailer. I am lead footed and the truck weighs 8500 lbs 'unloaded' Hwy is 75+MPH
both with and without the trailer.

I have driven the new Powerstroke diesel. It is strong and has similar torque but is not
as quick as my modified truck. It does, however, get better fuel economy. About 3 to 5 MPG
better with similar loads. The Powerstroke is a great (and only diesel) option on a new truck
but as a conversion could be very difficult due to the electronics involved.

I would not highly recommend the 94 factory IDI turbodiesel. The motor is good but the turbo
is a factory crippled ATI turbo and is only rate 190HP. Only 5 more than the normally aspirated
engine of the same year.

Good luck and let us know what you decide to do and how it goes!

James Thorne


------------------------------
>From smokeydl ix.netcom.com Tue Mar 11 10:58:00 1997 From: Smokey
Subject: 78 ranchero 351 windsor
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

This is a multi- part message in MIME format.

--------------446A5E6EB17

Smokey wrote:
>
> I'd like your thoughts on what preformance part are necessary to built a
> 325-350 horse motor for a 78 Ranchero. I would like to maintain some gas
> mileage as the car will be a daily driver.( in town mosty) what cam to
> use what compression ratio intake and carb( 4 barrel) I plan to use
> stock exhaust manifold and run dual exhaust( what size pipe) Heads have
> adjustable rocker studs and valves new springs i like to go stronger
> than a rv cam if possible. THe car has an fx automatic with stock rear
> end gross car weight is an amazing 6,000 lb. your input will be greatly
> appreciated
> thanks much
> smokey wells
> phx, az
> ps will run ac in summer

--------------446A5E6EB17
Content-Base: "file:///C|/TEMP/351%20windsor%2078.htm"



>From - Tue Mar 11 08:48:37 1997
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 08:48:37 -0700
From: Smokey
To: scashman ultranet.com
Subject: 351 WINDSOR
X-Mozilla-Status: 0001
Content-Length: 750

I'd like your thoughts on what preformance part are necessary to built a 325-350 horse motor for a 78 Ranchero. I would like to maintain some gas mileage as the car will be a daily driver.( in town mosty) what cam to use what compression ratio intake and carb( 4 barrel) I plan to use stock exhaust manifold and run dual exhaust( what size pipe) Heads have adjustable rocker studs and valves new springs i like to go stronger than a rv cam if possible. THe car has an fx automatic with stock rear end gross car weight is an amazing 6,000 lb. your input will be greatly appreciated
thanks much
smokey wells
phx, az ps will run ac in summer

--------------446A5E6EB17--



------------------------------
>From rwhitley amelia.sp.trw.com Tue Mar 11 11:03:21 1997 From: Robert Whitley Subject: Re: Late Model Diesels
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 10:55 PM 3/10/97 -0500, James Thorne wrote:

>Well you have had two other opinions an I thought I would give you a
>third from a little

Thanks for your input. I prefer a the normally aspirated option and I'm looking for an older vehicle.

However, you mention two other opinions. I totally missed those. Maybe I went through my mail too quickly. Would someone mail me those messages or a summary?

Thanks. Rob

===============================
rwhitley amelia.sp.trw.com (Robert Whitley)



------------------------------
>From kulige vitro.bloomington.in.us Tue Mar 11 11:52:50 1997 From: "Erickson" Subject: 1961 Rim Questions
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Everybody,

{I seem to have had some email problems these past couple of days. I am attempting a repost of this message, since I believe this never got posted yesterday.}

I have a question pertaining to what type of rims are stock for a 1961 F100.

I have 5 (including spare) 15" rims that I am stripping for repaint. I only found out this weekend that I have two types of similar, but not identical rims. I will attempt to briefly describe them. The two differences are the construction (the outer rim where the tire seats and the lug centers are either welded, or on some, are riveted) and how the hubcaps will mount (either snap *around* or *inside* the ring surrounding the lug nuts - resulting in a male-type or female-type hub cap, for lack of a better term.)

This small differences will make a big difference when I'm looking for the set of hub caps, as the two types of rims will not accept the same type or size hubcap.

1.) Does anyone know what rims were
original for the '61 year?

2.) And since I'm on the subject, how about the hubcaps for that year?

Since I'm rim painting this week, I'd like to end up with 5 of the correct type of rims for my truck all painted alike. (The "oddball" rims I'll end up with will make prime candidates for snow tire mounting).

3.) Were the rims for this year painted all one color (mine will be creme colored), or are the backs supposed to be painted black with creme on the fronts?
(The rims' paint that I am currently stripping have both painting configurations - so I'm confused!)

Anyone?
Thanks in advance.

Eric
1961 F100 Pick'em up Truck




------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Tue Mar 11 15:06:48 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: 78 ranchero 351 windsor -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>> Smokey 03/11/97 09:58am >>>
>
> I'd like your thoughts on what preformance part are necessary to built
>a
> 325-350 horse motor for a 78 Ranchero. I would like to maintain some gas
> mileage as the car will be a daily driver.( in town mosty) what cam to
> use what compression ratio intake and carb( 4 barrel) I plan to use
> stock exhaust manifold and run dual exhaust( what size pipe) Heads have
> adjustable rocker studs and valves new springs i like to go stronger
> than a rv cam if possible. THe car has an fx automatic with stock rear
> end gross car weight is an amazing 6,000 lb. your input will be greatly
> appreciated
> thanks much
> smokey wells
> phx, az
> ps will run ac in summer

Some questions:

What block is it and what's the displacement? Using Edlebrock Performer Series components in combination can easily bring you one HP per cubic inch. However, if you don't care about stock looks, I would strongly recommend getting headers.
The combination of a good intake and headers can give the most bolt on performance for the buck than anything else.

Example: 390 FE engine with Edlebrock intake, carb, cam and headers yields roughly 390 hp, add good heads and you can bump it even higher.


------------------------------
>From canzus techline.com Tue Mar 11 16:57:54 1997 From: Steve & Rockette Subject: Re: 78 ranchero 351 windsor
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 10:58 AM 3/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Smokey wrote:
>>
>> I'd like your thoughts on what preformance part are necessary to built a
>> 325-350 horse motor for a 78 Ranchero. I would like to maintain some gas
>> mileage as the car will be a daily driver.( in town mosty) what cam to
>> use what compression ratio intake and carb( 4 barrel) I plan to use
>> stock exhaust manifold and run dual exhaust( what size pipe) Heads have
>> adjustable rocker studs and valves new springs i like to go stronger
>> than a rv cam if possible. THe car has an fx automatic with stock rear
>> end gross car weight is an amazing 6,000 lb. your input will be greatly
>> appreciated
>> thanks much
>> smokey wells
>


Try a Compitition Cams part # 35-414-3, Advertised duration is 270,duration 0.050 is 224, Lift is .500 at the valve.
Works very well with a compression ratio around 9.5:1, a good dual plane manifold, and a spreadbore carb, but it needs headers with a 2.5" exaust.
Pocket porting the exaust ports is basicly a must-do job on the Windsor engines, and does pay in gained HP. You should also replace the FMX trans with a "kitted" C4. As it will survive behind a modified 351W where the FMX won't.
3.73 gears will also help you "get" around town also.
BTW... the 78 Ranchero weighs about 3800lbs, unless its fully loaded.

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox



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