Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 13:35:36 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest LOFCOM.COM
From: digest-proc LOFCOM.COM
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0015
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS LOFCOM.COM

Volume 97 Number 0015 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

460 Help Please
Re: 460 Help Please
bed rail protectors
Ammeter wiring revisited-'68 F100
Re: 460 Help Please
RE: 460 Help Please
Re: 460 Help Please
Re: Ammeter wiring revisited-'68 F100
Re: 460 Help Please
Good site for parts mfgs.
Re: thickness of metal floor in bed
Ammeter wiring revisited-'68 F100 -Reply
Re: thickness of metal floor in bed -Reply
Re: Ammeter wiring revisited-'68 F100
300 I6 Questions
website down for update
94 F-150 reply
Re: '90 351W Erratic Idle
Re: thickness of metal floor in bed
Automatic Transmission ?
axel seal on 91 explorer
Late Model Diesels
Web site back up, address has changed.
swapping illegal


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

--------------------------------------------------

>From edkc7df azstarnet.com Wed Mar 5 21:02:20 1997 From: edkc7df azstarnet.com (Ed Geiser) Subject: 460 Help Please
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I had my local mechanic completely rebuild the 460 in my 1978 Ford 1-ton Super Camper Special. Among other problems, we found 2 cracked exhaust valve seats on one head and 1 on the other. We magnafluxed 8 sets of used heads (16 heads) and found cracked exhaust seats on 14 of them. Following his guru's advice, who said heads on 460s during these years were problematic, my mechanic found a set of 1972 Lincoln 460 heads which checked out perfectly. His guru told him the chambers were bigger in the Lincoln, so we replaced the dished pistons with flat tops. We hardened the valve seats, etc. on the Lincoln heads. At the same time, we installed a Holley 750 double pumper, dual 2-1/2-inch exhaust off the stock manifolds, and an RV cam. There was some discussion among my mechanic's guys as to the correct cam timing. Apparently RV cams have both a retard and an an advance mark. Nobody remembers which timing mark was used to install the cam. I have about 2,000 miles on it since the overhaul. Here's the problem:

It has pre-ignition under load pulling a 21-foot travel trailer (4,000#).
The truck curbs at about 6,000# (I had a custom low profile utility bed built for it...heavy). I have retarded the timing icrementally from 6 BTDC to zero, but the only way I avoid pre-ignition under load at highway speed is to run premium and 3 cans of octane booster. And it's bound to get worse when summer comes to sunny Arizona. I checked the compression with engine hot, carb open, and starter cranking with compression read after 4 or 5 revolutions. The results were 175 psi (within a pound or so) for the 4 cyclinders I checked.

Before I make war with my mechanic, I would like some feed back. My primary question is whether or not 175 pounds of compression is so far out of whack that I should require premium *plus* octane booster? Also, could bad cam timing could be causing the problem. If so, is there a way to check it without pulling the timing cover?

I appreciate any sage advice you can give me.

Thanks,

Ed

------------------------------------------ If you are an amateur radio operator: 73 de Ed W7SEX

If you're not: CAIO

Old hams never die, they just lose their exciters.
































------------------------------
>From HURDJ VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU Wed Mar 5 23:19:10 1997 From: JIM HURD Subject: Re: 460 Help Please
X-VMS-To: IN%"FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com"
X-VMS-Cc: HURDJ
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Ed,
Did you cc those heads? If you did, then go to Bruce Bowlings Web page and calculate your compression ratio. Bet htose heads with pop-up pistons has you in the stratusphere (sp).

I think you should be able to pull a spark plug and valve cover and check your valve timing against the cam timing card to see how the cam was installed.

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)


------------------------------
>From yhtlines surfari.net Thu Mar 6 00:11:35 1997 From: yhtlines surfari.net
Subject: bed rail protectors
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I'm looking for some of those stainless steel bed rail protectors (mount on top of fender?) for my 95 F150. Not the diamond plate ones, but the flat ones. I'm in Coastal California, too far to drive to LA or SF. Any suggetions for suppliers?

Dave Lampert
Arroyo Grande CA



------------------------------
>From bigric mail.utexas.edu Thu Mar 6 00:23:06 1997 From: bigric mail.utexas.edu (Richard Cherico) Subject: Ammeter wiring revisited-'68 F100 To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I know that I put this up quite a while back, but I'm hoping that now we've got a few more people around.

I've got a '68 F100 with the 360. It's got the standard dash (temp & fuel guages, amp and oil lights). I've pulled a deluxe dash from a '68 F100 (guages all around) and gotten the correct oil pressure sending unit.
Right off I noticed that two wires from the wiring harness need to be swapped with other wires and the turn signal switch gets wired outside of the harness. Now, there's a thick black wire with a yellow stripe that comes right off of the starter solenoid where the alternator cable hits it.
This thick wire goes all the way to where the bundle of wires comes out behind the ignition switch. This wire looks important. What do I do with it?
On the deluxe dash, a solid red and a solid yellow wire actually go into the ammeter guage. I'm pretty sure the thick black and yellow wire is one of these. Where does the other wire come from?
It would be great if somebody else has this setup ('67-71 I believe) and could just check their underhood wiring and tell me what they see.
If anybody has a wiring diagram, I would LOVE to get it. In fact, if you've got the diagram and have access to a fax machine, you could fax it to me at 512-451-3527 and I'd be forever grateful.
Thanks a lot for any help.

bigric mail.utexas.edu
'68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360
'66 VW Beetle 1300
bigric mail.utexas.edu



------------------------------
>From edkc7df azstarnet.com Thu Mar 6 00:47:52 1997 From: edkc7df azstarnet.com (Ed Geiser) Subject: Re: 460 Help Please
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Jim, you wrote:

> Ed,
> Did you cc those heads? If you did, then go to Bruce Bowlings Web
>page and calculate your compression ratio. Bet htose heads with pop-up
>pistons has you in the stratusphere (sp).
>
> I think you should be able to pull a spark plug and valve cover and
>check your valve timing against the cam timing card to see how the cam
>was installed.
>

I did not cc the heads. My mechanic apparently took the word of his Ford "guru" that the Lincoln heads would offset the flat top pistons. I suspect, though, at 175 pounds of compression, the ratio has to be 10 or 10.5 to 1.
I'll try to run down the cam timing card.

I wonder if head spacers might help. I don't know how much cc they might give.

Thanks for the reply. I'll keep plugging along.

------------------------------------------ If you are an amateur radio operator: 73 de Ed W7SEX

If you're not: CAIO

Old hams never die, they just lose their exciters.
































------------------------------
>From rcollins micron.net Thu Mar 6 01:10:25 1997 From: Randy Collins Subject: RE: 460 Help Please
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Ed,

Although I am not a motor building expert, I am really close to starting = to build a built up 460 motor for my project Ford. I do know what the = combustion chamber size of the early Ford are. Or what they are = supposed to be that is. =20

C8xx =3D 75cc's
C9VE =3D 75cc's
DOVE =3D 75cc's
D2VE =3D 89cc's
Later heads are 92 to 97 cc's. =20

If you don't already know how to read the Ford codes the first number is = the decade and the second number is the year. For example the first = model year you could find a C9VE head would be 1969 and the D2VE head = would be 1972. =20

I hope this helps. =20

Randy Collins
----------
From: Ed Geiser[SMTP:edkc7df azstarnet.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 1997 4:48 PM To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 460 Help Please

Jim, you wrote:

> Ed,
> Did you cc those heads? If you did, then go to Bruce Bowlings Web
>page and calculate your compression ratio. Bet htose heads with pop-up
>pistons has you in the stratusphere (sp).
>
> I think you should be able to pull a spark plug and valve cover and
>check your valve timing against the cam timing card to see how the cam
>was installed.
>

I did not cc the heads. My mechanic apparently took the word of his = Ford
"guru" that the Lincoln heads would offset the flat top pistons. I = suspect,
though, at 175 pounds of compression, the ratio has to be 10 or 10.5 to = 1.
I'll try to run down the cam timing card.

I wonder if head spacers might help. I don't know how much cc they = might give.

Thanks for the reply. I'll keep plugging along.

------------------------------------------ If you are an amateur radio operator: 73 de Ed W7SEX

If you're not: CAIO

Old hams never die, they just lose their exciters.
































------------------------------


------------------------------
>From nfinney earthlink.net Thu Mar 6 01:22:55 1997 From: Nick Finney Subject: Re: Ammeter wiring revisited-'68 F100 To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Richard Cherico wrote:
>
> I know that I put this up quite a while back, but I'm hoping that now we've
> got a few more people around.
>
> I've got a '68 F100 with the 360. It's got the standard dash (temp & fuel
> guages, amp and oil lights). I've pulled a deluxe dash from a '68 F100
> (guages all around) and gotten the correct oil pressure sending unit.
> Right off I noticed that two wires from the wiring harness need to be
> swapped with other wires and the turn signal switch gets wired outside of
> the harness. Now, there's a thick black wire with a yellow stripe that
> comes right off of the starter solenoid where the alternator cable hits it.
> This thick wire goes all the way to where the bundle of wires comes out
> behind the ignition switch. This wire looks important. What do I do with it?
> On the deluxe dash, a solid red and a solid yellow wire actually go into the
> ammeter guage. I'm pretty sure the thick black and yellow wire is one of
> these. Where does the other wire come from?
> It would be great if somebody else has this setup ('67-71 I believe) and
> could just check their underhood wiring and tell me what they see.
> If anybody has a wiring diagram, I would LOVE to get it. In fact, if you've
> got the diagram and have access to a fax machine, you could fax it to me at
> 512-451-3527 and I'd be forever grateful.
> Thanks a lot for any help.
>
> bigric mail.utexas.edu
> '68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360
> '66 VW Beetle 1300
> bigric mail.utexas.edu

Okay Rick, I looked under the dash of my 69 F100. There doesn't seem to be any big black wire a yellow stripe that goes near the ignition switch on my truck. There is however, a big black wire with a green (it's listed as black-green in the EWD) stripe that goes to my ignition switch. It runs to the voltage regulator (must supply juice to the field coil) not the starter solenoid. This is listed as cable "904" in the EWD for 69, believe the color is same for 68 but the ignition switch terminals are slighly different.

There is a large wire that runs from the center of the switch it's solid yellow and is labeled "21" in the EWD it's the 12 volt battery supply to the ignition switch. 21 turns into 37 (BLACK YELLOW) then runs to a connector that hooks up to the positive side of the starter solenoid.

If you want the EWD then you will just have to cough up the big bucks for a library card my friend.

--
Nick Finney
69 F100 390 FE First On Race Day!



------------------------------
>From Doug_Neely bc.sympatico.ca Thu Mar 6 01:26:30 1997 From: Doug Neely Subject: Re: 460 Help Please
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Ed Geiser wrote:
>
> I had my local mechanic completely rebuild the 460 in my 1978 Ford 1-ton
> Super Camper Special. Among other problems, we found 2 cracked exhaust
> valve seats on one head and 1 on the other. We magnafluxed 8 sets of used
> heads (16 heads) and found cracked exhaust seats on 14 of them. Following
> his guru's advice, who said heads on 460s during these years were
> problematic, my mechanic found a set of 1972 Lincoln 460 heads which checked
> out perfectly. His guru told him the chambers were bigger in the Lincoln,
> so we replaced the dished pistons with flat tops. We hardened the valve
> seats, etc. on the Lincoln heads. At the same time, we installed a Holley
> 750 double pumper, dual 2-1/2-inch exhaust off the stock manifolds, and an
> RV cam. There was some discussion among my mechanic's guys as to the
> correct cam timing. Apparently RV cams have both a retard and an an advance
> mark. Nobody remembers which timing mark was used to install the cam. I
> have about 2,000 miles on it since the overhaul. Here's the problem:
>
> It has pre-ignition under load pulling a 21-foot travel trailer (4,000#).
> The truck curbs at about 6,000# (I had a custom low profile utility bed
> built for it...heavy). I have retarded the timing icrementally from 6 BTDC
> to zero, but the only way I avoid pre-ignition under load at highway speed
> is to run premium and 3 cans of octane booster. And it's bound to get worse
> when summer comes to sunny Arizona. I checked the compression with engine
> hot, carb open, and starter cranking with compression read after 4 or 5
> revolutions. The results were 175 psi (within a pound or so) for the 4
> cyclinders I checked.
>
> Before I make war with my mechanic, I would like some feed back. My primary
> question is whether or not 175 pounds of compression is so far out of whack
> that I should require premium *plus* octane booster? Also, could bad cam
> timing could be causing the problem. If so, is there a way to check it
> without pulling the timing cover?
>
> I appreciate any sage advice you can give me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed
>
> ------------------------------------------
> If you are an amateur radio operator: 73 de Ed W7SEX
>
> If you're not: CAIO
>
> Old hams never die, they just lose their exciters.
>

Ed,
Have you checked the springs on the mechanical advance?
I had a similar problem with my 390 and found one of the advance springs was real loose on the mounting tab, bent the tab out to put a little tension on the spring and solved my ping.
Cheers
Doug

> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com


------------------------------
>From Doug_Neely bc.sympatico.ca Thu Mar 6 01:46:11 1997 From: Doug Neely Subject: Good site for parts mfgs.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi all,
Try this site out, has lots of links to parts manufacturers http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.car-stuff.com/carlinks/parts.htm


------------------------------
>From karlc cnsii.com Thu Mar 6 02:26:05 1997 From: Karl Cunningham Subject: Re: thickness of metal floor in bed To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 05:27 PM 3/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone know what the thickness of the metal
>floor in a bed is? Specifically, a 1967 long bed, but
>any year will do. The reason I'm asking is that I saw
>an ad in JC Whitney (please no flames!) that had
>replacement panels for the bed. The panels fit in
>as original and are 18-20 guage. Is this thick enough?

Ken --

A few years back, I welded in some patches on the bed of my '60 F250, and measured it as 13-gauge -- something like .090" or so. I know that's an oddball gauge, but I guess if you're Ford buying train-car loads of sheetmetal, you can get whatever thickness you want.

What sections are you replacing?


Karl Cunningham
karlc cnsii.com
1960 F250 factory 4x4



------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Thu Mar 6 09:29:12 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Ammeter wiring revisited-'68 F100 -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>> Richard Cherico 03/05/97 11:23pm >>>
>I know that I put this up quite a while back, but I'm hoping that now
>we've got a few more people around.
>
>I've got a '68 F100 with the 360. It's got the standard dash (temp & fuel
>guages, amp and oil lights). I've pulled a deluxe dash from a '68 F100
>(guages all around) and gotten the correct oil pressure sending unit.
>Right off I noticed that two wires from the wiring harness need to be
>swapped with other wires and the turn signal switch gets wired
>outside of the harness. Now, there's a thick black wire with a yellow
>stripe that comes right off of the starter solenoid where the alternator
>cable hits it. This thick wire goes all the way to where the bundle of
>wires comes out behind the ignition switch. This wire looks important.
> What do I do with it? On the deluxe dash, a solid red and a solid yellow
> wire actually go into the ammeter guage. I'm pretty sure the thick black
>and yellow wire is one of these. Where does the other wire come
>from?
>
>Iwould be great if somebody else has this setup ('67-71 I believe) and
>ould just check their underhood wiring and tell me what they see.
>f anybody has a wiring diagram, I would LOVE to get it. In fact, if
>ou've ot the diagram and have access to a fax machine, you could fax
>it to me at 512-451-3527 and I'd be forever grateful.

>Thanks a lot for any help.

Richard, I've got a 67 with the deluxe dash. When I get home tonight I'll check. You may have to wait till tomorrow morning though as there's been a ton of heavy rain so it depends on tonights weather. Sorry, don't have a wiring diagram.





------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Thu Mar 6 09:35:44 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: thickness of metal floor in bed -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>> Karl Cunningham 03/06/97 01:26am >>>
>Ken --
>
>A few years back, I welded in some patches on the bed of my '60
>F250, and measured it as 13-gauge -- something like .090" or so. I
>know that's an oddball gauge, but I guess if you're Ford buying train-car
>loads of sheetmetal, you can get whatever thickness you want.
>
>What sections are you replacing?

There's a slight dip in the center of the bed, almost all the way across, as if something really heavy was placed there. Lucky it didn't bend anything but the flooring! Also, there are two rust holes, about 1/4 inch in size in the bed, just go through the top metal, not both panels. I was hoping to cut out the entire thing an weld in a new panel as I don't want welding seams anywhere they weren't originally.

Did you get your sheet metal from Ford?




------------------------------
>From spowel4 ibm.net Thu Mar 6 09:40:46 1997 From: spowel4 ibm.net (steve)
Subject: Re: Ammeter wiring revisited-'68 F100 To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

In , on 03/06/97
at 12:23 AM, bigric mail.utexas.edu (Richard Cherico) said:

>I know that I put this up quite a while back, but I'm hoping that now
>we've got a few more people around.

>I've got a '68 F100 with the 360. It's got the standard dash (temp &
>fuel guages, amp and oil lights). I've pulled a deluxe dash from a '68
>F100 (guages all around) and gotten the correct oil pressure sending
>unit. Right off I noticed that two wires from the wiring harness need to
>be swapped with other wires and the turn signal switch gets wired outside
>of the harness. Now, there's a thick black wire with a yellow stripe
>that comes right off of the starter solenoid where the alternator cable
>hits it. This thick wire goes all the way to where the bundle of wires
>comes out behind the ignition switch. This wire looks important. What
>do I do with it? On the deluxe dash, a solid red and a solid yellow wire
>actually go into the ammeter guage. I'm pretty sure the thick black and
>yellow wire is one of these. Where does the other wire come from?
>It would be great if somebody else has this setup ('67-71 I believe) and
>could just check their underhood wiring and tell me what they see. If
>anybody has a wiring diagram, I would LOVE to get it. In fact, if you've
>got the diagram and have access to a fax machine, you could fax it to me
>at 512-451-3527 and I'd be forever grateful.
>Thanks a lot for any help.

>bigric mail.utexas.edu
>'68 Ford F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360
>'66 VW Beetle 1300
>bigric mail.utexas.edu


>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com For
>help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

Normally the ammeter should be in series between the alternator and the battery, so connect the thick black wire to one of the 2 wires going into the ammeter. The other wire coming out of the ammeter needs to connect to the alternator. --
----------------------------------------------------------- spowel4 ibm.net (steve)
-----------------------------------------------------------



------------------------------
>From mvaugh acxiom.com Thu Mar 6 10:07:16 1997 From: mvaugh - Mark Vaught Subject: 300 I6 Questions
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Anyone familiar with 300's? My father has an '80 model F150 with a tired 300, and has found a '95 model with low miles. Other than the normal fuel injection stuff, what else will require swapping to replace the '80 300 with the '95 300? I'm trying to figure out what to do about the harmonic balancer and fuel pump. Does anyone know if these will work? He'll want to retain the stock V-belt setup, but I don't know if the crankshaft pulley from the older engine will bolt to the new?
Anyone? Is there a provsion on the new engine for a mechanical fuel pump? Any other pitfalls I'm forgetting?

Thanks,
Mark


------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Thu Mar 6 11:00:21 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: website down for update
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Web site will be down for the next 2-3 hours



------------------------------
>From iedd4 agt.gmeds.com Thu Mar 6 11:04:28 1997 From: iedd4 agt.gmeds.com ( Delray M Dobbins 230-3191 5962) Subject: 94 F-150 reply
X-Sun-Charset: US-ASCII
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>From nli10967 www1.utech.net Tue Mar 4 19:43:36 1997
>Subject: 94 f150
>To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
>
>I have a 2wd 94 f150 supercab w/ a 300 and man 5sp
>I recently replaced my 235/75 tires w/ 31"
>In gathering info and talking to the ford service department, they told me
>that changing axle ratios was illegal in CA.
>My current ratio is 3.08. If I were to attempt a ring & pinion swap with
>the help of a much more knowledgable friend, how do I determine the optimal
>ratio with my new tires?
>Another question I have is w/ the speedo. If it has changed considerably,
>and does it affect the inputs to the computer? (I'm getting way out of my
>league here!) how do I correct it? I believe it runs off a sensor in the
>rear ABS system.
>Truck usage is mostly highway and light hauling (in bed). in the future I
>might pull a small trailer.
>
>Nathan L. Iven
>321 E. Inger Dr #40
>Santa Maria, CA 93454
>805-348-1986
>nli utech.net

Nathan,
The info you are searching for shouldn't be that difficult to obtain from your local ford dealer. But for some reason it is. I have been through your footsteps exactly a little over a year ago and not one of the 4 dealers (here in Indy) I asked knew the CORRECT answer to when and how is is necessary to address the programming in the speedometer when dealing with axle ratio's and tire sizes.

ANSWER short version:
You are correct. the speedo, computer, cruise control, etc are all fed from a sensor in axle (on top) right over the ring gear. The bottom line is, as far as I know, the only time it is necessary to address the speedo programming is when you change tire sizes. meaning anything you do to the overhall height of your tire will change number of tire revolutions per mile, which affects the sensor, which affects the speedo, computer etc., It is not necessary to address the speedo when changing axle ratios. I went from a 3.08 to a 3.73 and I did not reprogram mt speedometer in my 94 F-150. You have changed your tire size. So you need to change the programming in the speedo. there is a formula I have thanks to a friend at Ford in detroit, that you need. Its at home, but I will send the relevant formula and details tomorrrow. BTW you can only change this programming constant a total of 6 times.

ANSWER long version.
When I checked into changing the rear axle ratio none of the local ford dealers wanted to give me the time of day. this really pissed me off. So I ordered the gear (mail order) and then tried to find a dealer to just install it. responses ranged from "Thats illegal", to "I won't touch that", "Sure for 450 in labor" to finally a dealer that would do the install for 250.00. Of course I still had to educate the mechanic as to why it wasn't necessary to mess the speedo proramming. As usual, you have to know a little bit more than the people your are dealing with.

The mechanics of the system, are....there is an exciter gear about 1/8 in wide with 108 teeth (for the 8.8 axle, different # teeth for different size axles ie 7.5, ranger?) This exciter gear is bolted smack up against the ring gear in the axle.
In my case every tire revolution results in 108 impulses at the sensor. The speedo wants to see a constant of something like 80,000 pulses per mile. period. no more no less so there is a variable value (5.0-11.0) that you can program into the speedo cluster.

Thus

(Tire rev. per mile) X (108 gear teeth) X (conversion constant,in my case 9.67)

= 80,000 pulses per mile
(this is from memory so wait till tomorrow when I give the offical formula)

I may be off on my numbers, I havn't looked at the sheet in a while but you get the idea.
The programmable constant is how ford accounts for the different tire sizes that are available from the factory.

When I changed from a 3.08 to a 3.73 I did not change the number of tire rev per mile.
Thus reprogramming was not required.

think of the sensor input as being after the rear axle ratio. and the rear axle ratio doesn't matter. At least as far as I know.

Do you have a fax number I can fax the two relevant pages that I received from ford?

Regards,



Delray Dobbins
94 Supercab Flareside 351/3.73s/Vortech A-trim ET 14.90


------------------------------
>From lardner std.teradyne.com Thu Mar 6 11:24:36 1997 From: lardner std.teradyne.com
Subject: Re: '90 351W Erratic Idle
X-Vms-To: SMTP%"FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com"
X-Vms-Cc: LARDNER
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Bill wrote:

>Does anyone know what would cause an erratic idle in my 1990 F250 4x4
>351W EFI. Whenever the engine is at operating temperature with the
>defroster or bilevel on, when slowing to a stop the engine rpms will
>drop to 450 or 500. This seems to happen when the air conditioner
>compressor kicks on. This does not happen when set to heater mode.


Have you checked to see if the vacuum line from the manifold to the (black plastic) heater housing has come loose? Last year after I installed shortie headers, my Bronco acted much the same until I found this line loose and plugged it back in.


Jeff Lardner
Camarillo, Ca.
'90 Bronco 5.8 '91 Mustang 5.0


------------------------------
>From karlc cnsii.com Thu Mar 6 11:33:51 1997 From: Karl Cunningham Subject: Re: thickness of metal floor in bed To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 09:35 AM 3/6/97 -0500, you wrote:
>There's a slight dip in the center of the bed, almost all the way across,
>as if something really heavy was placed there. Lucky it didn't bend
>anything but the flooring!

I don't know how bad your dip is, but I had similar small dips in mine -- maybe 1/2" deep. I got underneath with a jack and some blocks of wood and pushed up on it. Then, with the pressure on, I tapped on the top with a hammer and block of wood on the areas that were above the level they should have been. By working it around somewhat, I was able to get it pretty straight.

Also, there are two rust holes, about
>1/4 inch in size in the bed, just go through the top metal, not both
>panels. I was hoping to cut out the entire thing an weld in a new
>panel as I don't want welding seams anywhere they weren't
>originally.

I also welded some small areas that were rusted, and some holes that had I used for xtra tanks. If you're only talking about 1/4" holes, can you use a mig welder to just weld them up, then grind it flat with a disk or die grinder?

>Did you get your sheet metal from Ford?

I got the metal from a local surplus dealer. I think I used 14-ga, and they we willing to sell me just a small section.

I'd be glad to "talk" you thru some of this by email if you want. I know it's a far cry from doing it in person, but I'll try.


Karl Cunningham
karlc cnsii.com
1960 F250 factory 4x4



------------------------------
>From rotto juno.com Thu Mar 6 12:41:50 1997 Subject: Automatic Transmission ?
From: rotto juno.com (RO Y)
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I have a 1988 F-150 with Automatic transmission. It does not have overdrive but I don't know the model number. I have had it about 2 years and it has had this *problem* all that time. When I first start it and engage the transmission it seems like it is slipping very bad. I can wait a few minutes and possibly shift thru the gears and it will be normal or just drive off and not notice the problem again until the next morning after sitting unused all night. I changed the fluid and filter but have done nothing else. Should I continue to ignore it or is something bad going to happen one of these times?

Any thoughts or suggestions welcome.

Roy


------------------------------
>From kenter sisko.harvard.edu Thu Mar 6 12:55:24 1997 From: kenter sisko.harvard.edu (Almus Kenter) Subject: axel seal on 91 explorer
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

The wife's 91 explorer failed inspection on account of the rear shoes being ruined. Apparently the axel seal on one side leaked. I plan on doing the repair this weekend and am looking for tips/encouragement. I have done brakes before so that doesn't phase me. I was a little worried about pulling out the old bearing and seal as the manual shows using a slide hammer with a funky little tool to grab the bearing. Is this necessary ?
can I just kludge something up? Thanks

-almus

91 explorer
87 F150


------------------------------
>From rwhitley amelia.sp.trw.com Thu Mar 6 13:03:23 1997 From: Robert Whitley Subject: Late Model Diesels
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Everyone,

I'm looking for opinions on the 6.9 and 7.3 ford diesels since I'm considering one in a van or possibly a pickup. What I'm hoping for is a tow vehicle which can handle a 4500 lb dual axle trailer and which gets better mileage than a 460. Another option is a 351W and I'm also wondering if that would be adequate. I live in Los Angeles and will be towing a trailer both east and north including over Tejon Pass which is usually pretty stressful on tow vehicles.

Thanks for the help.

Rob

===============================
rwhitley amelia.sp.trw.com (Robert Whitley)



------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Thu Mar 6 13:28:41 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Web site back up, address has changed.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

The web site is back up. The new address is http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks

The old address points to the new address.



------------------------------
>From kulige vitro.bloomington.in.us Thu Mar 6 13:29:55 1997 From: "Erickson" Subject: swapping illegal
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Nathan, Delray and all,

I have a question pertaining to two statements made pertaining to the swapping of rear gears in your trucks...namely that it is illegal...???????.

I didn't think much of Nathan's statement, since he said something about "California" and I just figured that this was just another goofy auto-law that the state thinks it doesn't have enough of.......

---

To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.