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Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 07:54:22 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest From: digest-proc Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0008 Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS Volume 97 Number 0008 fordtrucks Digest Today's Topics: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply Re: Rebuilding a 351W Re: Rebuilding a 351W Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply FS: 1994 F250 Supercab 4X4 Power Stroke > Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply Re: My Project Ford Description Re: My Project Ford Description Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply Re: 71 F100 with a 460 -Reply Reply Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply -Reply Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. Re: 71 F100 with a 460 -Reply Reply -Reply Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply Re: Flathead help Runnin' Hot RE: Flathead problems Flathead starter Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. My Dream. 460 Fuel Economy?! * PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! * -------------------------------------------------- >From jayvanv On Mon, 24 Feb 1997, Ken Payne wrote: > 1. Soak the bolts longer > 2. Drill them out, not fun, especially the one under the manifold outlet= at > the back. Get out yee olde tap and die set and reseat and bolt hol= es > that got damaged. This method takes some time but will work if all > other attempts fail. Ask your auto parts store about heli-coils if > it comes to this. =20 > 3. Heat the manifold and then dry ice the bolt. Sometimes works > 4. Heat the manifold and then give it gobs of penetrating oil while > its hot. This will sometimes help the oil to sink in. > 5. Blow them out with a torch. Requires lots of skill, not a recommended > procedure. >=20 > If you do take it to a shop, like a muffler shop, you're probably looking > at 1-2 hours labor for the whole job. Not really too expensive, but > I guess that depends on your circumstances - good luck. I talked to a couple different shops and both said the 360-390 engines are notorious for breaking bolts in the head. They also said that I should get the manifolds resurfaced as well. I got a firm quote of $220 for the job, including machine work, gaskets, and labor. I think I'll cut and sell a couple cords of wood of my place and go that route. Probably alot less grief in the long run. =20 > >2nd question, I have a noisy heater motor that is obvioulsy has worn > >bushings and is squeeky to the point of total irritation. The Haynes > >manual I have does not address trucks equipped with the AC package. >Can= anyone tell me how and where the heater fan motor and cage is > >located, and how to replace it?=20 >=20 > Sorry, can't help on this. Another person did, Thanks though! >=20 > >3rd question, From what I understand this motor runs hot. Pulling my 16' >=20 > Try large bladed aluminum fan. This will help. Also, if it doesn't have > a shroud around the radiator, you're losing about 50% of your > cooling capacity. A radiator shroud is the single best way to > keep the engine cool. Another good thing is adding an electric fan to th= e > outside of the radiator. This was added to my truck as I got very > tired of pulling over in rush hour traffic with vapor lock or when I > would go into a store on a hot day and come out and my truck > wouldn't start for 30-60 mins when the engine cooled. It has a large fan and shroud now. It does have a fan clutch though, I was thinking of removing that?? Would that help? would it be detrimental?=20 I'll consider an electric fan after I try a lower thermostat and any other "cheap" solution. I removed the AC since it really isn't needed that often here in Oregon, and to get rid of the condensor radiator in front of hte radiator, not to nmention the cost of getting it converted over to the "new" r134 AC coolant.=20 Thanks again! =2E.Jay=20 >=20 > Thanks for any help or insight on these problems..=20 >=20 > ..Jay =20 >=20 > =BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*= =F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1* > =20 > jayvanv > =20 > =BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*= =F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1* > =20 >=20 >=20 > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks > For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne >=20 >=20 >=20 > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks > For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne >=20 =AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0 =20 jayvanv =20 =AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0 =20 ------------------------------ >From karlj Subject: Re: Rebuilding a 351W edu> To: FORDTRUCKS At 11:11 AM 2/25/97 -0500, Gregory Sherwin wrote: > I am currently rebuilding a 351W. Does anyone know where I can >get exploded diagrams of the engine that tell where all the extrenals >go. Something similar to the books that the Ford parts department has >would be nice. > >Greg >84 F150 4X4 351W > Greg, Motor's Manual, Chilton's, Haynes & Clymer manuals all have diagrams & pictures of the 351 engine. My local library has an excelent selection of the above manuals and also factory shop manuals. If I need information from the library manuals I just make copies of the pages of the manuals that I need for $.05 a page. Good Luck Karl Jacobsen ---}karlj http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.waypt.com/~karlj/lightning.html 1994 F-150 Lightning #2724, White 15.01 E.T. - 91.09 mph and 1994 F-150 Lightning, #2030, Black ------------------------------ >From karlj Subject: Re: Rebuilding a 351W edu> To: FORDTRUCKS At 11:11 AM 2/25/97 -0500, Gregory Sherwin wrote: > I am currently rebuilding a 351W. Does anyone know where I can >get exploded diagrams of the engine that tell where all the extrenals >go. Something similar to the books that the Ford parts department has >would be nice. > >Greg >84 F150 4X4 351W > Greg, Motor's Manual, Chilton's, Haynes & Clymer manuals all have diagrams & pictures of the 351 engine. My local library has an excelent selection of the above manuals and also factory shop manuals. If I need information from the library manuals I just make copies of the pages of the manuals that I need for $.05 a page. Good Luck Karl Jacobsen ---}karlj http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.waypt.com/~karlj/lightning.html 1994 F-150 Lightning #2724, White 15.01 E.T. - 91.09 mph and 1994 F-150 Lightning, #2030, Black ------------------------------ >From payne Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS >>> "jayvanv >>> -snip- >> outside of the radiator. This was added to my truck as I got very >> tired of pulling over in rush hour traffic with vapor lock or when I >> would go into a store on a hot day and come out and my truck >> wouldn't start for 30-60 mins when the engine cooled. >It has a large fan and shroud now. It does have a fan clutch though, I >was >thinking of removing that?? Would that help? would it be detrimental? > >I'll consider an electric fan after I try a lower thermostat and any other >"cheap" solution. I removed the AC since it really isn't needed that often >here in Oregon, and to get rid of the condensor radiator in front of hte >radiator, not to nmention the cost of getting it converted over to the >"new" r134 AC coolant. The clutch does eat some energy, not much but it does. A lower thermostat will most definately work. That's what I did in my truck before I put in the electric fan. Now its back to the 180. Keep in mind though that the engine really needs a higher temp than 165. This is just a temporary fix. Maybe you can test the temp gauge to make sure its accurate. ------------------------------ >From henryv I'm selling my baby.. a speced out/factory ordered 1994 F250 Supercab 4X4 XLT Lariat 155 WB Styleside 7.3l Power Stroke Turbo Diesel > 5 speed manual O/D HD trans 3.55 limited slip Trailer Tow Off-road > Security Group DRL Manual Hubs Sliding Rear window Low Mount swing mirrors Roof Clearence lights Step Bumper > Captain's Chairs Two Tone Rugged Liner Bedliner Jerico Cabhigh cap POR 15 painted under body Bug deflector 20000 miles (daily ride to/from work) Adult Driven by a 32 year old Meticulously Maintained Northern New Jersey off RT 80 BO over $24000.00 Reply to: henryv 201-724-4071 daytime ------------------------------ >From jayvanv On Tue, 25 Feb 1997, Ken Payne wrote: > >>> "jayvanv > >It has a large fan and shroud now. It does have a fan clutch though, I > >was > >thinking of removing that?? Would that help? would it be detrimental?=20 > > > >I'll consider an electric fan after I try a lower thermostat and any oth= er > >"cheap" solution. I removed the AC since it really isn't needed that oft= en > >here in Oregon, and to get rid of the condensor radiator in front of hte > >radiator, not to nmention the cost of getting it converted over to the > >"new" r134 AC coolant.=20 >=20 > The clutch does eat some energy, not much but it does. A lower > thermostat will most definately work. That's what I did in my > truck before I put in the electric fan. Now its back to the 180. > Keep in mind though that the engine really needs a higher temp > than 165. This is just a temporary fix. Maybe you can test > the temp gauge to make sure its accurate. Ok, So what is the purpose of the fan clutch?=20 How does the lower thermostat effect the engine?=20 This truck doesn't have the full gauge package, so I think I will get an aftermarket gauge cluster and see if there is any difference. Would it be the temp sensor in the block that would be bad?=20 Thanks yet again ;)=20 =2E.Jay =AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0 =20 jayvanv =20 =AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0 =20 ------------------------------ >From jayvanv On Tue, 25 Feb 1997, Ken Payne wrote: > >>> "jayvanv > >It has a large fan and shroud now. It does have a fan clutch though, I > >was > >thinking of removing that?? Would that help? would it be detrimental?=20 > > > >I'll consider an electric fan after I try a lower thermostat and any oth= er > >"cheap" solution. I removed the AC since it really isn't needed that oft= en > >here in Oregon, and to get rid of the condensor radiator in front of hte > >radiator, not to nmention the cost of getting it converted over to the > >"new" r134 AC coolant.=20 >=20 > The clutch does eat some energy, not much but it does. A lower > thermostat will most definately work. That's what I did in my > truck before I put in the electric fan. Now its back to the 180. > Keep in mind though that the engine really needs a higher temp > than 165. This is just a temporary fix. Maybe you can test > the temp gauge to make sure its accurate. Ok, So what is the purpose of the fan clutch?=20 How does the lower thermostat effect the engine?=20 This truck doesn't have the full gauge package, so I think I will get an aftermarket gauge cluster and see if there is any difference. Would it be the temp sensor in the block that would be bad?=20 Thanks yet again ;)=20 =2E.Jay =AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0 =20 jayvanv =20 =AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0 =20 ------------------------------ >From nfinney >>and finally >>coax more performance out of the stock 460. It is my intention to end >>up with 460 that has approximately 400 HP. What do you mean by stock 460??? If you go with an RV cam, port the the heads, get the timing right and get some headers and an aluminum intake 400 HP out of a 460 is cake. REPLACE THE STOCK OIL PUMP DRIVESHAFT with a hardened one! Next door neighbor blew his on a 70 F-100 with a new 460 and lost oil pressure. -- Nick Finney nfinney ------------------------------ >From nfinney Ken Payne wrote: >>Funny thing about projects like this is that friends and neighbors just >>shake their heads - they'll never understand that the beauty is in putting >>something together. My co-workers can't understand why I would want to >>spend the kind of money to do a frame-up restoration of a 1967 F100. These >>same kind of people are the ones who gawk at the finished product yet don't >>understand the work put into it. I'm looking at my garage and laughing. -- Nick Finney nfinney ------------------------------ >From payne Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS >>> "jayvanv >>> -snip- >> the temp gauge to make sure its accurate. >Ok, So what is the purpose of the fan clutch? The fan clutch is not for cooling. Its for providing more horse power for the engine. What it does is provide spin to the fan based on how hot the engine is. A rotating fan robs a small amount of horse-power so it pays to keep rotating as minimaly as possible. However, depending on the make of the clutch (and in your case it's propably not a stock item) it may or may not "lock" completely when the .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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