Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 07:54:22 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
From: digest-proc lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0008
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Volume 97 Number 0008 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply
Re: Rebuilding a 351W
Re: Rebuilding a 351W
Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply
FS: 1994 F250 Supercab 4X4 Power Stroke
Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply
Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply
Re: My Project Ford Description
Re: My Project Ford Description
Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply
Re: 71 F100 with a 460 -Reply Reply
Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply -Reply
Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor..
Re: 71 F100 with a 460 -Reply Reply -Reply
Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor..
Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply
Re: Flathead help
Runnin' Hot
RE: Flathead problems
Flathead starter
Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor..
My Dream.
460 Fuel Economy?!


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

--------------------------------------------------

>From jayvanv teleport.com Tue Feb 25 11:44:35 1997 From: "jayvanv teleport.com" Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

On Mon, 24 Feb 1997, Ken Payne wrote:

> 1. Soak the bolts longer
> 2. Drill them out, not fun, especially the one under the manifold outlet= at
> the back. Get out yee olde tap and die set and reseat and bolt hol= es
> that got damaged. This method takes some time but will work if all
> other attempts fail. Ask your auto parts store about heli-coils if
> it comes to this. =20
> 3. Heat the manifold and then dry ice the bolt. Sometimes works
> 4. Heat the manifold and then give it gobs of penetrating oil while
> its hot. This will sometimes help the oil to sink in.
> 5. Blow them out with a torch. Requires lots of skill, not a recommended
> procedure.
>=20
> If you do take it to a shop, like a muffler shop, you're probably looking
> at 1-2 hours labor for the whole job. Not really too expensive, but
> I guess that depends on your circumstances - good luck.

I talked to a couple different shops and both said the 360-390 engines are notorious for breaking bolts in the head. They also said that I should get the manifolds resurfaced as well. I got a firm quote of $220 for the job, including machine work, gaskets, and labor. I think I'll cut and sell a couple cords of wood of my place and go that route. Probably alot less grief in the long run. =20

> >2nd question, I have a noisy heater motor that is obvioulsy has worn
> >bushings and is squeeky to the point of total irritation. The Haynes
> >manual I have does not address trucks equipped with the AC package. >Can= anyone tell me how and where the heater fan motor and cage is
> >located, and how to replace it?=20
>=20
> Sorry, can't help on this.

Another person did, Thanks though!

>=20
> >3rd question, From what I understand this motor runs hot. Pulling my 16'
>=20
> Try large bladed aluminum fan. This will help. Also, if it doesn't have
> a shroud around the radiator, you're losing about 50% of your
> cooling capacity. A radiator shroud is the single best way to
> keep the engine cool. Another good thing is adding an electric fan to th= e
> outside of the radiator. This was added to my truck as I got very
> tired of pulling over in rush hour traffic with vapor lock or when I
> would go into a store on a hot day and come out and my truck
> wouldn't start for 30-60 mins when the engine cooled.

It has a large fan and shroud now. It does have a fan clutch though, I was thinking of removing that?? Would that help? would it be detrimental?=20

I'll consider an electric fan after I try a lower thermostat and any other "cheap" solution. I removed the AC since it really isn't needed that often here in Oregon, and to get rid of the condensor radiator in front of hte radiator, not to nmention the cost of getting it converted over to the "new" r134 AC coolant.=20

Thanks again!

=2E.Jay=20



>=20
> Thanks for any help or insight on these problems..=20
>=20
> ..Jay =20
>=20
> =BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*= =F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*
> =20
> jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
> =20
> =BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*= =F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*=BC=BC*=F1*o,*_*,o*=F1*
> =20
>=20
>=20
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.co= m
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>=20
>=20
>=20
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.co= m
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>=20

=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0
=20
jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
=20
=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0
=20



------------------------------
>From karlj waypt.com Tue Feb 25 12:08:02 1997 From: Karl Jacobsen
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a 351W
edu>
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 11:11 AM 2/25/97 -0500, Gregory Sherwin wrote:
> I am currently rebuilding a 351W. Does anyone know where I can
>get exploded diagrams of the engine that tell where all the extrenals
>go. Something similar to the books that the Ford parts department has
>would be nice.
>
>Greg
>84 F150 4X4 351W
>
Greg,
Motor's Manual, Chilton's, Haynes & Clymer manuals all have diagrams & pictures of the 351 engine. My local library has an excelent selection of the above manuals and also factory shop manuals. If I need information from the library manuals I just make copies of the pages of the manuals that I need for $.05 a page.
Good Luck

Karl Jacobsen ---}karlj waypt.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.waypt.com/~karlj/lightning.html 1994 F-150 Lightning #2724, White
15.01 E.T. - 91.09 mph and
1994 F-150 Lightning, #2030, Black


------------------------------
>From karlj waypt.com Tue Feb 25 12:08:00 1997 From: Karl Jacobsen
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a 351W
edu>
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 11:11 AM 2/25/97 -0500, Gregory Sherwin wrote:
> I am currently rebuilding a 351W. Does anyone know where I can
>get exploded diagrams of the engine that tell where all the extrenals
>go. Something similar to the books that the Ford parts department has
>would be nice.
>
>Greg
>84 F150 4X4 351W
>
Greg,
Motor's Manual, Chilton's, Haynes & Clymer manuals all have diagrams & pictures of the 351 engine. My local library has an excelent selection of the above manuals and also factory shop manuals. If I need information from the library manuals I just make copies of the pages of the manuals that I need for $.05 a page.
Good Luck

Karl Jacobsen ---}karlj waypt.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.waypt.com/~karlj/lightning.html 1994 F-150 Lightning #2724, White
15.01 E.T. - 91.09 mph and
1994 F-150 Lightning, #2030, Black


------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Tue Feb 25 12:12:46 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>> "jayvanv teleport.com" 02/25/97 10:44am
>>>

-snip-
>> outside of the radiator. This was added to my truck as I got very
>> tired of pulling over in rush hour traffic with vapor lock or when I
>> would go into a store on a hot day and come out and my truck
>> wouldn't start for 30-60 mins when the engine cooled.

>It has a large fan and shroud now. It does have a fan clutch though, I
>was
>thinking of removing that?? Would that help? would it be detrimental?
>
>I'll consider an electric fan after I try a lower thermostat and any other
>"cheap" solution. I removed the AC since it really isn't needed that often
>here in Oregon, and to get rid of the condensor radiator in front of hte
>radiator, not to nmention the cost of getting it converted over to the
>"new" r134 AC coolant.

The clutch does eat some energy, not much but it does. A lower thermostat will most definately work. That's what I did in my truck before I put in the electric fan. Now its back to the 180.
Keep in mind though that the engine really needs a higher temp than 165. This is just a temporary fix. Maybe you can test the temp gauge to make sure its accurate.





------------------------------
>From henryv pica.army.mil Tue Feb 25 12:45:10 1997 From: "Henry Van Dyke" Subject: FS: 1994 F250 Supercab 4X4 Power Stroke To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I'm selling my baby.. a speced out/factory ordered

1994 F250 Supercab
4X4
XLT Lariat
155 WB Styleside
7.3l Power Stroke Turbo Diesel
5 speed manual O/D HD trans
3.55 limited slip
Trailer Tow
Off-road
Security Group
DRL
Manual Hubs
Sliding Rear window
Low Mount swing mirrors
Roof Clearence lights
Step Bumper
Captain's Chairs
Two Tone

Rugged Liner Bedliner
Jerico Cabhigh cap
POR 15 painted under body
Bug deflector

20000 miles (daily ride to/from work)

Adult Driven by a 32 year old

Meticulously Maintained

Northern New Jersey off RT 80

BO over $24000.00

Reply to:
henryv pica.army.mil
201-724-4071 daytime


------------------------------
>From jayvanv teleport.com Tue Feb 25 13:10:27 1997 From: "jayvanv teleport.com" Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

On Tue, 25 Feb 1997, Ken Payne wrote:

> >>> "jayvanv teleport.com" 02/25/97 10:44am
> >It has a large fan and shroud now. It does have a fan clutch though, I
> >was
> >thinking of removing that?? Would that help? would it be detrimental?=20
> >
> >I'll consider an electric fan after I try a lower thermostat and any oth= er
> >"cheap" solution. I removed the AC since it really isn't needed that oft= en
> >here in Oregon, and to get rid of the condensor radiator in front of hte
> >radiator, not to nmention the cost of getting it converted over to the
> >"new" r134 AC coolant.=20
>=20
> The clutch does eat some energy, not much but it does. A lower
> thermostat will most definately work. That's what I did in my
> truck before I put in the electric fan. Now its back to the 180.
> Keep in mind though that the engine really needs a higher temp
> than 165. This is just a temporary fix. Maybe you can test
> the temp gauge to make sure its accurate.

Ok, So what is the purpose of the fan clutch?=20

How does the lower thermostat effect the engine?=20

This truck doesn't have the full gauge package, so I think I will get an aftermarket gauge cluster and see if there is any difference. Would it be the temp sensor in the block that would be bad?=20

Thanks yet again ;)=20

=2E.Jay

=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0
=20
jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
=20
=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0
=20



------------------------------
>From jayvanv teleport.com Tue Feb 25 13:10:23 1997 From: "jayvanv teleport.com" Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

On Tue, 25 Feb 1997, Ken Payne wrote:

> >>> "jayvanv teleport.com" 02/25/97 10:44am
> >It has a large fan and shroud now. It does have a fan clutch though, I
> >was
> >thinking of removing that?? Would that help? would it be detrimental?=20
> >
> >I'll consider an electric fan after I try a lower thermostat and any oth= er
> >"cheap" solution. I removed the AC since it really isn't needed that oft= en
> >here in Oregon, and to get rid of the condensor radiator in front of hte
> >radiator, not to nmention the cost of getting it converted over to the
> >"new" r134 AC coolant.=20
>=20
> The clutch does eat some energy, not much but it does. A lower
> thermostat will most definately work. That's what I did in my
> truck before I put in the electric fan. Now its back to the 180.
> Keep in mind though that the engine really needs a higher temp
> than 165. This is just a temporary fix. Maybe you can test
> the temp gauge to make sure its accurate.

Ok, So what is the purpose of the fan clutch?=20

How does the lower thermostat effect the engine?=20

This truck doesn't have the full gauge package, so I think I will get an aftermarket gauge cluster and see if there is any difference. Would it be the temp sensor in the block that would be bad?=20

Thanks yet again ;)=20

=2E.Jay

=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0
=20
jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
=20
=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0
=20



------------------------------
>From nfinney earthlink.net Tue Feb 25 15:00:26 1997 From: Nick Finney Subject: Re: My Project Ford Description To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>and finally
>>coax more performance out of the stock 460. It is my intention to end
>>up with 460 that has approximately 400 HP.

What do you mean by stock 460???

If you go with an RV cam, port the the heads, get the timing right and get some headers and an aluminum intake 400 HP out of a 460 is cake.

REPLACE THE STOCK OIL PUMP DRIVESHAFT with a hardened one! Next door neighbor blew his on a 70 F-100 with a new 460 and lost oil pressure.

--
Nick Finney
nfinney earthlink.net


------------------------------
>From nfinney earthlink.net Tue Feb 25 15:03:38 1997 From: Nick Finney Subject: Re: My Project Ford Description To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Ken Payne wrote:

>>Funny thing about projects like this is that friends and neighbors just
>>shake their heads - they'll never understand that the beauty is in putting
>>something together. My co-workers can't understand why I would want to
>>spend the kind of money to do a frame-up restoration of a 1967 F100. These
>>same kind of people are the ones who gawk at the finished product yet don't
>>understand the work put into it.

I'm looking at my garage and laughing.

--
Nick Finney
nfinney earthlink.net


------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Tue Feb 25 15:31:38 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply
-Reply
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>> "jayvanv teleport.com" 02/25/97 12:10pm
>>>

-snip-
>> the temp gauge to make sure its accurate.

>Ok, So what is the purpose of the fan clutch?

The fan clutch is not for cooling. Its for providing more horse power for the engine. What it does is provide spin to the fan based on how hot the engine is. A rotating fan robs a small amount of horse-power so it pays to keep rotating as minimaly as possible. However, depending on the make of the clutch (and in your case it's propably not a stock item) it may or may not "lock" completely when the engine is hot. If you're having cooling problems, take it off. The amount of additional energy you'll use shouldn't be noticable on a 460.

>How does the lower thermostat effect the engine?

Engines burn fuel most efficiently at around 200-205 degrees.

>This truck doesn't have the full gauge package, so I think I will get an
>aftermarket gauge cluster and see if there is any difference. Would it
>be the temp sensor in the block that would be bad?

Its not whether the gauge is bad or not, its just that Ford analog gauges lose accuracy with time. The sender itself wouldn't be bad, the gauge itself may be off. If there's some way you could find out the temp range of the current gauge you may not have to get an aftermarket one.




------------------------------
>From williame why.net Tue Feb 25 16:12:25 1997 From: william enox
Subject: Re: 71 F100 with a 460 -Reply Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> >>> william enox 02/25/97 07:59am >>>
> >Ken Payne wrote:
> >>Specifically whether I can use the headers from a 74
> > >460 powered truck on a 460 in a 71?
> >
> > Again yes.
> >Thanks for the answer! It'll make putting the engine in alot cheaper.
> >$126 headman headers instead of $250 hookers.
>
> Before you run out and order them..... the frame rails have the
> same distance between them for both models. This is something
> I'm 100% positive about. However, the height of the engine
> mounts is something I'm not sure about, let me call a buddy
> who would know.
Thats another question what motor mounts can I use? The factory 460 mounts
from the 74 are radically different from the 240 or 302 mounts I've checked on at the auto parts store. 302's use a 2 peice mount and 460's use a 3 peice (frame mount,
insulator, and motor bracket). PAW list the kit for $109 and thats what I was planning on using, unless someone has a better idea.
>
> >
> > >Also what gears are probably in my truck? it's a base 240 with a 3
> speed
> > >column shifter and overdrive unit.
> > Don't understand... gear ratios, what tranny or what rear end ratio?
> I'm sorry! I meant Rearend gear ratio I should have been more specific.
> The tag is missing from the rearend so I don't know what it has.
>
> If you can give me the vin I could tell you, unless the rearend has
> been changed.
Ok I'll get it as soon as I can get to the truck. It's at a friends 100 miles from here.



------------------------------
>From jayvanv teleport.com Tue Feb 25 17:57:10 1997 From: "jayvanv teleport.com" Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply -Reply -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

On Tue, 25 Feb 1997, Ken Payne wrote:

> The fan clutch is not for cooling. Its for providing more horse
> power for the engine. What it does is provide spin to the fan
> based on how hot the engine is. A rotating fan robs a small
> amount of horse-power so it pays to keep rotating as minimaly
> as possible. However, depending on the make of the clutch
> (and in your case it's propably not a stock item) it may or
> may not "lock" completely when the engine is hot. If you're
> having cooling problems, take it off. The amount of additional
> energy you'll use shouldn't be noticable on a 460.

I have the 390 not the 460 :) I assume(!) that removing the clutch will mean I will need to put a spacer in to keep the fan roughly in the same place?=20


> Engines burn fuel most efficiently at around 200-205
> degrees.

I should have realized this. Duh.

> Its not whether the gauge is bad or not, its just that Ford
> analog gauges lose accuracy with time. The sender itself
> wouldn't be bad, the gauge itself may be off. If there's some
> way you could find out the temp range of the current gauge
> you may not have to get an aftermarket one.

Any suggestions?=20

=2E.Jay


=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0
=20
jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
=20
=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,= =B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4= =B0
=20



------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Tue Feb 25 18:39:16 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor..
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>> "jayvanv teleport.com" 02/25/97 04:57pm
>>>
>On Tue, 25 Feb 1997, Ken Payne wrote:

>> The fan clutch is not for cooling. Its for providing more horse
>> power for the engine. What it does is provide spin to the fan
>> based on how hot the engine is. A rotating fan robs a small
>> amount of horse-power so it pays to keep rotating as minimaly
>> as possible. However, depending on the make of the clutch
>> (and in your case it's propably not a stock item) it may or
>> may not "lock" completely when the engine is hot. If you're
>> having cooling problems, take it off. The amount of additional
>> energy you'll use shouldn't be noticable on a 460.

>I have the 390 not the 460 :) I assume(!) that removing the clutch will
>mean I will need to put a spacer in to keep the fan roughly in the same
>place?

my duh! I forgot, you've got an FE like mine! Yes, you'll need a spacer. I picked up an aluminum (very light) spacer for a couple of bucks at a local parts store. Pretty straight forward installation.

>> Engines burn fuel most efficiently at around 200-205
>> degrees.

>I should have realized this. Duh.

>> Its not whether the gauge is bad or not, its just that Ford
>> analog gauges lose accuracy with time. The sender itself
>> wouldn't be bad, the gauge itself may be off. If there's some
>> way you could find out the temp range of the current gauge
>> you may not have to get an aftermarket one.

>Any suggestions?

I can't think of anything other "buying a gauge and returning it when you're done". Not something I'd feel comfortable doing.
I've got a Suntac gauge that I bought and never used lying about somewhere. If I can dig it up and if it will fit (I'll try it on my 390 this weekend) then maybe I can work something out with you. Its not doing me any good around here. Note: This is the complete oil pressure, AMP and temp gauge set, not a single gauge.




------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Tue Feb 25 18:43:31 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: 71 F100 with a 460 -Reply Reply -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>> william enox 02/25/97 03:12pm >>> Ken Payne wrote:
>
-snip-
>Thats another question what motor mounts can I use? The factory 460
>mounts
>from the 74 are radically different from the 240 or 302 mounts I've
>checked on at the auto parts store. 302's use a 2 peice mount and
>460's
>use a 3 peice (frame mount,
>insulator, and motor bracket). PAW list the kit for $109 and thats what
>I was planning on using, unless someone has a better idea.
>>

Should use the same mount in both trucks.

-snip-

>Ok I'll get it as soon as I can get to the truck. It's at a friends 100
>miles from here.

Ooopss, didn't mean the vin. Open the driver side door and look for the tag on either the door or door frame. It'll have an axle code along with other numbers. Copy those and I'll decode it for you.




------------------------------
>From jayvanv teleport.com Tue Feb 25 19:08:14 1997 From: "jayvanv teleport.com" Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor..
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

On Tue, 25 Feb 1997, Ken Payne wrote:

> >>> "jayvanv teleport.com" 02/25/97 04:57pm
>=20
> my duh! I forgot, you've got an FE like mine! Yes, you'll need a
> spacer. I picked up an aluminum (very light) spacer for a couple
> of bucks at a local parts store. Pretty straight forward installation.


Cool, I'll take a peek at the parts place this weekend and give this a try too. Umm Newbie question, what's an FE? engine model designation?


> I can't think of anything other "buying a gauge and returning it
> when you're done". Not something I'd feel comfortable doing.
> I've got a Suntac gauge that I bought and never used lying
> about somewhere. If I can dig it up and if it will fit (I'll try it
> on my 390 this weekend) then maybe I can work something
> out with you. Its not doing me any good around here. Note:
> This is the complete oil pressure, AMP and temp gauge set,
> not a single gauge.

That'd be great! The local parts place either has the $10 cheapie gauges or the $40 Stewart Warners... and I could use an amp and oil pressure guage too :)=20

Many Thanks!

=2E.Jay


>=20
>=20
>=20
> ____________________________________________________________________
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jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
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------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Tue Feb 25 19:42:39 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor.. -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>>> "jayvanv teleport.com" 02/25/97 06:08pm
>>>
>>
>> my duh! I forgot, you've got an FE like mine! Yes, you'll need a
>> spacer. I picked up an aluminum (very light) spacer for a couple
>> of bucks at a local parts store. Pretty straight forward installation.

>Cool, I'll take a peek at the parts place this weekend and give this a try
>too. Umm Newbie question, what's an FE? engine model designation?

Ford/Edsel. This engine was originally designed for the Edsel. It obviously out lasted the car! The following are FE blocks, which are essentially the same exact engine except for bore and stroke: 332, 352, 360, 361, 390, 391, 406, 410 and 427

> I can't think of anything other "buying a gauge and returning it
> when you're done". Not something I'd feel comfortable doing.
> I've got a Suntac gauge that I bought and never used lying
> about somewhere. If I can dig it up and if it will fit (I'll try it
> on my 390 this weekend) then maybe I can work something
> out with you. Its not doing me any good around here. Note:
> This is the complete oil pressure, AMP and temp gauge set,
> not a single gauge.

That'd be great! The local parts place either has the $10 che>apie gauges
>or the $40 Stewart Warners... and I could use an amp and oil pressure
>guage too :)
>
>Many Thanks!

No problem!




------------------------------
>From dwentz ix.netcom.com Tue Feb 25 20:35:39 1997 From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: Flathead help
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> The starter has locked up into the flywheel . This has happened once
>before.
>I rocked the truck back and forth in third gear and it popped out. No such
>luck this time. I'm going to have to pull the starter off but I can't see how
>it unbolts. If someone knows how this is done I would like some advice on
>this.

There are 2 very long bolts that hold the starter on. They actually run through the length of the starter. They're easy to find though--they're the 2 bolts on the back of the starter that don't *look* like they'd be holding it on--they're also the only 2 bolts on the back of the starter (if that makes it any simpler).

> Am interested in corresponding with anyone who has a flathead or a
>48-52 F-1.

I've got a 50 F1 (351C/C4) and a flathead sitting in my garage.

~Dan




------------------------------
>From cwebb ctainforms.com Tue Feb 25 20:51:46 1997 From: cwebb ctainforms.com (Christopher E. Webb) Subject: Runnin' Hot
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Been having some troubles with my '77 F250. It has a 460/V8 engine.
Currently, it has been running hot (red-lining at slow speeds after running a bit), and the fan doesn't seem to be kicking in. It rotates when the engine is running, but I don't hear that sound of a jet taking off, that I've heard on other clutched fans. I've also been losing radiator fluid.
After filling it back up, I get a lot of smell of coolant in the cab while running, and the defroster vents on my dash are fogging up the windshield, even though all the air stuff is off.

I know I have a heater core leak--how easy is that to replace (it looks almost exactly like the picture of the heater core from a '78 Bronco with A/C that's in the Chilton's manual)? I've already replaced the thermostat.
The radiator is one of those super-cooling systems that has one main radiator and what looks like 3 smaller ones mounted off of it.

Does anybody know where I can get some decent wiring diagrams for this monster? The previous owner did a lot of jury-rigging, but didn't have the owner's manual. There's stuff in there I can't identify, and most of it seems to go nowhere! They said they used to have a 5th Wheel on it.

If anyone can help with this, I'd appreciate it. I don't have a lot of experience with auto repair (just computers), so speak slowly and clearly. :)

Thanks,

Julia Bender

1977 F250 460/V8



------------------------------
>From ssilverthorn front.net Tue Feb 25 22:16:43 1997 From: Steve and Diana Silverthorn Subject: RE: Flathead problems
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Tom,

It looks like you got some good advise about getting the starter out of your flathead. I am not much help to you personally, but I have been communicating with a guy called Bill that operates the following web site.
He is most helpful with mechanical info on old vehicles. Check out this site.


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.neca.com/~brauch/


------------------------------
>From lizard primenet.com Tue Feb 25 23:04:56 1997 From: lizard primenet.com
Subject: Flathead starter
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

The starter is held in by the two long bolts that run from the rear cover through the starter and into the bell housing. The bolt (I am fuzzy on this) has two sets of threads, one for the front cover and the 2nd for the bell housing.

The "Bendix" is either dirty, worn or has a broken spring. If nothing is broken, try cleaning the grooves it rides in and don't lube it.




Bob Ollerton;The only lizard primenet.com Roswell, GA., / Patagonia, Arizona



------------------------------
>From nfinney earthlink.net Wed Feb 26 01:38:25 1997 From: Nick Finney Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold removal, heater fan motor..
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

jayvanv teleport.com wrote:

>
> Cool, I'll take a peek at the parts place this weekend and give this a try
> too. Umm Newbie question, what's an FE? engine model designation?
>

> Many Thanks!
>
> ..Jay

Stands for "FORD EDSEL", the FE was fords "new" V8 Big Block in the late 50's early 60's. Don't know the exact year. Anyone know when production of the FE was stopped?

They common displacements were 352,360,390,406,427 and 428 ci, The 427 side oiler in the Shelby Cobra was a FE Big Block (the casting was not the same as your average FE though).
--
Nick Finney
nfinney earthlink.net


------------------------------
>From nfinney earthlink.net Wed Feb 26 02:01:47 1997 From: Nick Finney Subject: My Dream.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

This is my dream:

I refurbish the interior of my 69 F-100 to stock new looking, punch out all of the dents in the body and repaint it with several coats of dark racing green.
The truck will get 3 inches of lift all around, and 33 inch tires. I will put a DANA 70 in the back and manage to bolt on big ass disks with integral parking brakes.
Up front I will retrofit the disks and calipers from a mid 70's F350 and add a power booster unit.

The engine begins as an aluminum FE (Caroll Shelby is now producing them), with a displacement of 428 cubic inches, add custom pistons, HD rods and tunnel port heads. This engine has a bullet proof dry sump oiling system with a 4000 gallon reserve capacity tank which is bolted onto my bed (this also serves to increase traction over the rear tires :).

I modify an aluminum intake and add fuel injectors and a custom built fuel rail. I upgraded from points to a distributor-less capacitive discharge ignition system coupled with sequential port fuel injection.
With this system the engine actually achieves 10+ mpg.

--
Nick Finney
nfinney ....


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