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Date: Wed, 19 Feb 1997 21:52:06 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest From: digest-proc Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0003 Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS Volume 97 Number 0003 fordtrucks Digest Today's Topics: Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... -Reply RE: '68 F100 front disc conversion '68 F100 front disc conversion Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions Ford smallblock designations Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions and my '61 F100 Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions and my '61 F100 -Reply Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions Re: Dropping a 5.0 in a 95 Ranger -Reply Re: '68 F100 front disc conversion Digest format now available! More digest info (please read) RE:61 and 63 Ford F100's Reply to 61 questions Home for master cylinder etc. Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... New to the list w/93 Ranger RE:61 and 63 Ford F100's 88 Bronco Paint Re: New to the list w/93 Ranger * PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! * -------------------------------------------------- >From rick Subject: Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... To: FORDTRUCKS Jon, > > thinking about putting a 5.0 in it sometime > > Come on fellas! I don't mean to flame anyone, but this is the Ford list, [snip] One thing about specifing a 302 vs a 5.0 is it kind of "dates" the engine. Sometimes this is helpful (balancing is different, accessories mounted different, radiator inlet different, heads different, ...). rick '71 F100 302 :-) -- Rick Larson rick ------------------------------ >From mtanner Rick Larson wrote: > > Wow! My $200 '71 F100 might be a "good buy" :-). You might want to > check the rear axle seals. Both were shot on mine. Also check the > master cylinder push rod under the dash. My master cylinder started leaking > there. Does that mean you would sell it to me for $200? :) As far as the rear axle seals go, mine is a full floating rearend. Haven't had any experience with these but I am about to get some. I will definitely be doing a thorough job. > I talked to a Ford body man and you can get new cab corners. You will > have to remove the bed to get at them. I don't have a source (Ford?). I > used some duct tape, expanding foam from a can and some undercoating. You > might want something better looking. If it keeps it from rusting, what the heck. I wonder if fiberglass might give you a better looking surface for this type of repair. > Tough call. I've spent about $200 keeping mine running in the past two > years. It is nice having a another Ford in storage to canabilize for > parts. Now, gas and oil are the main costs. I get about 13mpg with a 302. Well, I don't feel too bad. With my larger truck and a 390 I am getting 10mpg. Some of what I spent on it went into a new Edelbrock Performer Carburetor with which I finally passed emissions. I didn't want to mess with the old Holley. Mark --- Mark Tanner mtanner ------------------------------ >From JLINETT Subject: Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS Ken Payne (list owner, and obviously fellow afficionado of fine American automobilia) said: >Amen, brother! I've got a 390, not a 6.4! Long live the FE motors! That reminds me of another reason I like the Ford "Powerstroke", which is really the International T444E. International isn't afraid to name the motor after its cubic displacement in inches! A lot of people call it a "7.3" but the boys from Indy ain't afraid to tell you it's a 444 cubic inch engine and then, in parenthesis, "7.27 liters" for any ferners that might be a listenin'! Another fellow pointed out: >One thing about specifing a 302 vs a 5.0 is it kind of "dates" the >engine. Sometimes this is helpful (balancing is different, accessories >mounted different, radiator inlet different, heads different, ...). Ok, I'll bite. When did it cease to become a 302 and start to be a 5.0? Certainly these variations are not confined to the 302 vs. 5.0 designation alone, as the 302 was shipped in about a zillion vehicles over the years. 1959! What a year! Jon in Houston ------------------------------ >From rcollins Richard, I am in the process of dismantling a 1975 F250 2WD Ford Supercab and = converting it to a 4WD. I have yet to find a good home for the 2WD = front end, master cylinder, proportioning valve and brake booster. The = "front end" is complete with everything including I-beams, rotors, = spindles and brake calipers. However, I did cut the tie-rod in half to = separate the 2 pieces. The F250 setup is the 8 lug bolt setup with the = huge Ford disc brakes. =20 I don't know if any of these pieces will work for you project but, I = need to find a good home for them. =20 Let me know if you have a use for any of these parts, Randy Collins ---------- From: Richard Cherico[SMTP:bigric Subject: '68 F100 front disc conversion When I tried to mail this last time, for some reason the server thought = I (1) requested a list of subscriptions (2) called the "which" command Wierd stuff guys... Anyway, here's the old message, just as it was before: Which parts do I need to replace in order to convert to disc brakes in = the front of my '68 F100? Specifically, which spindles do I need to = install? And do I need to also replace the master cylinder and/or proportioning valve? Right now it's got the 3" setup in the front. I'm just getting = a little tired of constantly adjusting the front brakes evenly. Thanks = for any help. Richard Cherico bigric '68 Ford F100 Stepside 360 bigric ------------------------------ ------------------------------ >From mtanner Eric wrote: > > Mark Tanner wrote: > > The body has two major problem areas. The bed is rusted through at the > > right front mounting bolt and is generally in pretty sad shape including > > the tailgate. How easy would it be to find a bed for this truck? I am > > thinking I would have to pay about $500 for a good one. > > I've seen new ones in catalogs in this price range....I would think > you could find one much cheaper at a local yard. What catalogs are you referring to? Are there aftermarket manufacturers that have good reputations for quality products? A friend of mine bought an aftermarket tailgate for his '86 F-150. It was an extremely poor fit to the point that he decided to fix his original one instead. The aftermarket tailgate was less than half the cost of a new one from Ford. > what do you have? A spiffy, reliable, CLASSIC truck _and_ $15K+ in > your pocket! How can you go wrong?! Especially if you're like me > and like the older look. You just can't beat the feel of the older trucks. Metal dashes and the ignition switch on the dash instead of the steering column. Not to mention an engine you can actually get to to work on. Mark --- Mark Tanner mtanner ------------------------------ >From mvaugh To: FORDTRUCKS Actually, it does... 4.00" x 4.25" Mark Vaught 427 Windsor fanatic >From JLINETT with the Joneses" designations? It was, and is, the Ford 302, the greatest small block of all time, and is not a metric engine. (8) 4.00 inch pistons stroking through 3.00 inches. It just doesn't get any better than that! Regards, Jon in Houston (And if you do the math, it ain't 5.0.) >From mtanner Larry Smeins wrote: > > Rust is extremely difficult to repair with a lasting fix. The problem isn't > the bare metal but the fact that all protective films are burned off during > the welding and new rust starts forming before the weld is cold. There are > some new fluxes and wires just for this problem. If they are used a rust > preventive coating is formed around the bead on both sides of the panel. I > don't know who makes this stuff but a respected body man showed it too me > while discussing derusting my old pickup. I'd suggest either finding it, if I would be very interested in knowing more about this. Are you referring to MIG wire? I will have to check around to see if I can find it. > I found aftermarket door shells for a 74 Chevy (sorry about that) OK, but just this once. > for about > $100 each. You can't do much body repair for that. They came fully primed > with a rust preventative primer and bolted right on. Surely Ford shells are > available like this. I found them at a salvage yard that specialized in > Chevies What was your impression of the quality of these parts? Did they seem as good as the original doors as far as fit, thickness of sheet metal, etc.? > You can do an awful lot of work on an old truck for the cost of a new one. > It really depends on whether you need a new one to satisfy your ego or are > happy with a nice reliable old one. Actually, my ego is much better satisfied to be driving around in a clean, good running 20+ year old truck that I maintain myself. Mark --- Mark Tanner mtanner ------------------------------ >From kulige Mark et al.... > What catalogs are you referring to? Are there aftermarket manufacturers > that have good reputations for quality products? A friend of mine bought > an aftermarket tailgate for his '86 F-150. It was an extremely poor fit > to the point that he decided to fix his original one instead. The > aftermarket tailgate was less than half the cost of a new one from Ford. Well, I have only 2 catalogs so far... (I've only had my truck for less than 2 months.) Anyways, I just happened to bring them into work today for a little lunch time day dreaming. I incorrectly guestimated pricing for a complete bed for your truck.... According to the catalogs, it looks like a brand new one will cost about $1600! OOPS! (Hey, my excuse is I have a truck made in a year that Ford decided _not_ to have bed! (1961-1963?) Good thing my "unibody" is in great shape!!!) I'd _really_ hate to have to cut that sucker out and weld in a new one!!! :-{O As for the quality, I haven't a clue, since I'm waiting for my tax return before I'm able to buy some goodies for the old truck. I was planning on purchasing some lower dollar items first, and judging future buys upon service, quality, etc.... As for my email yesterday, what I meant to say is, I'll bet you can find a "workable" bed in a local yard a WHOLE lot cheaper than $1600! Yeah, yeah! That's it! FWIW: The 2 catalogs that I have so far are: Obsolete Ford Parts - 405.634.6815 ($3.00) Mac's Anitque Auto Parts - 800.777.0948 (FREE!) Disclaimer: (I have no affilation with the above suppliers, I merely recieved their catalogs first.) Now a question for the list members: Is anyone out there familiar with the '61 to '63 F100s? Mine is titled as '61, but when compared to two pictures I have seen, it appears that my truck has a '63 grill. I don't think my Gramps did alot to this truck, but I'm wondering about a couple of other possible "swaps". I guess a recommended source for literature would be helpful - any suggestions? Regards, Eric 1961 F100 with a '59 292 CID Pick'em up truck. What the heck is that in Liters, anyways?! Nevermind!!! ;) ------------------------------ >From lsmeins Subject: Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions To: FORDTRUCKS ---------- >To: FORDTRUCKS >Subject: Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions >Date: Wednesday, February 19, 1997 11:41AM >Larry Smeins wrote: > > Rust is extremely difficult to repair with a lasting fix. The problem isn't > the bare metal but the fact that all protective films are burned off during > the welding and new rust starts forming before the weld is cold. There are > some new fluxes and wires just for this problem. If they are used a rust > preventive coating is formed around the bead on both sides of the panel. I > don't know who makes this stuff but a respected body man showed it too me > while discussing derusting my old pickup. I'd suggest either finding it, if >I would be very interested in knowing more about this. Are you referring >to MIG wire? I will have to check around to see if I can find it. I'll try calling the body man that I mentioned tonight. If I get details on the stuff I'll post it. > I found aftermarket door shells for a 74 Chevy (sorry about that) >OK, but just this once. > for about > $100 each. You can't do much body repair for that. They came fully primed > with a rust preventative primer and bolted right on. Surely Ford shells are > available like this. I found them at a salvage yard that specialized in > Chevies >What was your impression of the quality of these parts? Did they seem as >good as the original doors as far as fit, thickness of sheet metal, etc.? Yes, I was very pleased with them. >Mark --- >Mark Tanner mtanner Larry ------------------------------ ------------------------------ >From payne Subject: Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions and my '61 F100 -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS >Mark et al.... > -snip- > >Now a question for the list members: >Is anyone out there familiar with the '61 to '63 F100s? Mine is >titled as '61, but when compared to two pictures I have seen, it >appears that my truck has a '63 grill. I don't think my Gramps >did alot to this truck, but I'm wondering about a couple of other >possible "swaps". I guess a recommended source for literature would >be helpful - any suggestions? If you've used any of the pictures on the Ford Trucks List pictorial page ( http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~kpayne/ford/pictorial/ford.htm ) as a reference ---- don't! I cannot vouche for any of them other than the 67-72 models. I have a spotters guide but in my infinate laziness I didn't use it. The only ones I know for sure without the guide are 67-72. I know that in the case of a 67, the grill is extremely hard to find so alot of people opt to put grills from 68+ on them. Don't be surprised if that happened to yours. ------------------------------ >From lindstdt > > Mark Tanner wrote: > > > The body has two major problem areas. The bed is rusted through at the > > > right front mounting bolt and is generally in pretty sad shape including > > > the tailgate. How easy would it be to find a bed for this truck? I am > > > thinking I would have to pay about $500 for a good one. > > I don't know if you are interested, but an outfit in Florida makes fiberglass reproductions - no more rust - ever :).... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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