Date: Wed, 19 Feb 1997 10:41:26 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
From: digest-proc lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0002
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Volume 97 Number 0002 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

RE: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD
Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD
Re: 47 Panel Truck
Re: '47 Panel Van info request
Re: '47 Panel Van info request
'74 F-250 - Some Questions
Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
97 F150 problems
Ford Engines
Re: 97 F150 problems
RE: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
'74 F-250 - Some Questions
Re: Ford Engines
Re: Ford Engines
Re: 56 F-100s-Big window
RE: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD
Re: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD
Re: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD -Reply
'68 F100 front disc conversion
47 Panel
Re: '68 F100 front disc conversion
Kit Kar Nox Control System
Re: Kit Kar Nox Control System
Dropping a 5.0 in a 95 Ranger
Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations...
Dropping a 5.0 in a 95 Ranger -Reply
Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... -Reply
Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... -Reply


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

--------------------------------------------------

>From rcollins micron.net Tue Feb 18 00:45:07 1997 From: Randy Collins Subject: RE: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Gary,

I understand your frustration in looking for the steering linkage parts = for your Ford. =20

I am in the process of building a Ford F250 4x4 around the same year as = yours. I had a heck of a time locating the steering linkage pieces I = needed. I kind sole (via Internet) suggested that I try NAPA auto parts = for the source. Unfortunately, that was a dead end. I finally located = the parts from a salvage yard over 300 miles from my home. Almost every = truck I looked at had the necessary steering pieces missing. I hope = that by the time mine wears out again the aftermarket will have caught = up with the demand for the parts. =20

I would think that the trucks on the east coast would be very rusted by = now and be good part sources. =20

Good luck,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
----------
From: Gary Mumma[SMTP:gmumma mnsinc.com] Sent: Monday, February 17, 1997 8:25 AM To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD

Subject is what I'm looking for. I have a 1979 Ford F-150 4WD that has = a
bad universal joint in the steering shaft between the steering column = shaft
and the steering box. Ford says they stopped selling them 2 years ago. = I
also called a bearing company to see about just replacing the u-joint. = They
also told me the bearing was out of production with none left on the = shelf.

The Ford part number for the intermediate steering shaft is D9TZ3B676A.
The u-joint is a Torrington MYT661.

Can anyone PLEASE tell me where I may find one of these items? I would really hate to part with the truck over something so minor, yet so = neccessary.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Gary

**************************************************************** * Gary Mumma + Ofcourse all opinions are mine, * * gmumma mnsinc.com + No one else wants to take * * Arlington, Virginia + credit for my stupidity * *++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++* * =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Homepage located at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mnsinc.com/gmumma = =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D *
****************************************************************



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------------------------------
>From mmiller dryden.net Tue Feb 18 00:57:46 1997 From: "Mitch Miller" Subject: Re: 47 Panel Truck
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

> In 47 Ford made three versions of a panel truck. One was called a Sedan Delivery and was built on a car chassis. Since you say yours is just like a truck, it is probably not this one. The other two were both built on truck chassis and were both called panel delivery trucks, one with a 114 in wheelbase (body type C82) and one with a 122 inch wheelbase (body type Y82). Both used the 59A engine with the Ford (Holley actually made most of them) 2V carb.

Thanks very much for the info, Roger. I'll have to get the tape measure out to figure which one it is.



------------------------------
>From mmiller dryden.net Tue Feb 18 00:57:48 1997 From: "Mitch Miller" Subject: Re: '47 Panel Van info request To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Engine made in 1946, serial number 8169 Green interior with a brown leatherette seat.
Yosemite Green Paint

~~ Thanks Bill ~~


------------------------------
>From mmiller dryden.net Tue Feb 18 00:57:49 1997 From: "Mitch Miller" Subject: Re: '47 Panel Van info request To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Steve said:

If you have your serial number I can possibly tell you more. Email it to me and I'll see if I can
dig up my codes.

~~ Thanks Steve, but can you tell me where I can find the serial number? I have no paperwork with the van!



------------------------------
>From mtanner pacifier.com Tue Feb 18 10:28:59 1997 From: Mark Tanner Subject: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Ken Payne wrote:
> Number of subscriptions has hit 100! I had expected it to hit

I guess I must be number 100 since when I subscribed, I got a message that said there are 100 subscribers of the list.

I have a '74 F-250 Supercab Longbed. I bought this truck intending to have a cheap beater pickup. Cost me $750. Since I am not one to leave broken things alone $1800 later I have a good running, relatively reliable truck although I haven't gotten into the brakes/wheel bearings yet. I am beginning to think about doing more to the truck so I have some questions.

The body has two major problem areas. The bed is rusted through at the right front mounting bolt and is generally in pretty sad shape including the tailgate. How easy would it be to find a bed for this truck? I am thinking I would have to pay about $500 for a good one.

Also there is a badly rusted spot at the lower rear corner of the cab on the right side. There are two layers of metal with a space between them.
The outside layer has a hole about 3" x 6". Is there a source for new body panels for this truck? In this situation do you need to worry about the repair leaving bare metal between the two panels as a future site of rust?

The doors have several holes in them from several different mirrors over the years. Some of them are .5" in diameter. ??? Should I try to weld them up or look for some good doors to replace them?

The motor is a 390. I basically need to replace the entire exhaust system with the possible exception of the manifolds. There are two studs broken off in the right head and there is a vise grip clamped near one of them.
Would a muffler shop be able to replace the broken studs for a reasonable fee? Since I have to replace everything anyway should I consider headers and dual exhaust? Does anyone make headers for this truck that fit well and won't give me too many headaches with leaks? I am not looking for high RPM horsepower but good trailer towing torque.

If I do all this work to the truck, am I wasting money that would be better spent on a truck that is in better shape to begin with?

Mark
---
Mark Tanner mtanner pacifier.com Washougal, WA



------------------------------
>From rick adc.com Tue Feb 18 11:17:43 1997 From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Mark writes:

> I have a '74 F-250 Supercab Longbed. I bought this truck intending to
> have a cheap beater pickup. Cost me $750. Since I am not one to leave
> broken things alone $1800 later I have a good running, relatively reliable
> truck although I haven't gotten into the brakes/wheel bearings yet. I am
> beginning to think about doing more to the truck so I have some questions.

Wow! My $200 '71 F100 might be a "good buy" :-). You might want to check the rear axle seals. Both were shot on mine. Also check the master cylinder push rod under the dash. My master cylinder started leaking there.

> Also there is a badly rusted spot at the lower rear corner of the cab on
> the right side. There are two layers of metal with a space between them.
> The outside layer has a hole about 3" x 6". Is there a source for new
> body panels for this truck? In this situation do you need to worry about
> the repair leaving bare metal between the two panels as a future site of
> rust?

I talked to a Ford body man and you can get new cab corners. You will have to remove the bed to get at them. I don't have a source (Ford?). I used some duct tape, expanding foam from a can and some undercoating. You might want something better looking.

> If I do all this work to the truck, am I wasting money that would be
> better spent on a truck that is in better shape to begin with?

Tough call. I've spent about $200 keeping mine running in the past two years. It is nice having a another Ford in storage to canabilize for parts. Now, gas and oil are the main costs. I get about 13mpg with a 302.

rick
'66 Mustang garage shelf
'71 F100 daily driver (102K miles!)
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com Minneapolis


------------------------------
>From kulige vitro.bloomington.in.us Tue Feb 18 12:11:35 1997 From: "Erickson" Subject: Re: '74 F-250 - Some Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hey Mark and fellow trucksters,

> > From: Mark Tanner
> > Subject: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
> I have a '74 F-250 Supercab Longbed. I bought this truck intending to
> have a cheap beater pickup. Cost me $750. Since I am not one to leave
> broken things alone $1800 later I have a good running, relatively reliable
> truck although I haven't gotten into the brakes/wheel bearings yet.

You sound like me! ;)

> The body has two major problem areas. The bed is rusted through at the
> right front mounting bolt and is generally in pretty sad shape including
> the tailgate. How easy would it be to find a bed for this truck? I am
> thinking I would have to pay about $500 for a good one.

I've seen new ones in catalogs in this price range....I would think you could find one much cheaper at a local yard.

> Also there is a badly rusted spot at the lower rear corner of the cab on
> the right side. There are two layers of metal with a space between them.
> The outside layer has a hole about 3" x 6". Is there a source for new
> body panels for this truck?

Probably....

>In this situation do you need to worry about
> the repair leaving bare metal between the two panels as a future site of
> rust?

Definite Yes! When you open this up, be sure to remove all the rust you can, and use some type of rust inhibitor to stop the growth of any you can't entirely clean up. Otherwise in 3 years you'll be doing all this work again. (I'm assuming that you plan to keep the truck for some time).

> The doors have several holes in them from several different mirrors over
> the years. Some of them are .5" in diameter. ??? Should I try to weld
> them up or look for some good doors to replace them?

If your doors are otherwise good, then I would elect to fix the holes. Gramps did the same thing with my '61, but fortunately for me the holes aren't all that large. Depending on how long you plan on keeping the beast, and to what extent you plan on "restoring" it, you've got several options besides finding (and paying for) new door skins. You could have the holes filled with a MIG and a fender washer, or even brazed in (being careful not to get the metal too hot.) A little grinding, a little bondo/glazing compound, little sanding, and viola! No more holes with just a little time and for cheap!



> If I do all this work to the truck, am I wasting money that would be
> better spent on a truck that is in better shape to begin with?

This is entirely up to you. _MY_ personal opinion is that since you have about $1800 bucks into the truck and if it is overall pretty decent, putting a couple more bucks into it will be a whole lot cheaper than shelling out $20K+ for a new truck.....You'll save a bunch on insurance, too!! ;)

Think about how much newer truck financing would run you for even a year. Now spend that cash on your truck, fixing up the things that have gotten neglected, and splash on a new coat of paint (once the dings and rust spots have been repaired correctly, of course!). And what do you have? A spiffy, reliable, CLASSIC truck _and_ $15K+ in your pocket! How can you go wrong?! Especially if you're like me and like the older look.

Good luck.
Just one opinion.............
Eric
1961 F100 Pick'em up truck





------------------------------
>From llemmon pilot-ind.com Tue Feb 18 13:18:07 1997 From: llemmon pilot-ind.com
Subject: 97 F150 problems
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hello,
My name is Lee Lemmon and I am new to the l*st. I own a 93 Ranger 4x4 s-cab with 4.0 and 5spd. The Ranger has been a great truck so far, except for driveshaft problems and minor fluid leaks.
My question relates to driveline problems with the 97 F150's. Has anyone else had problems with their new truck? A friend of mine has a 97 4x4 s-cab with the 5.4 motor. He has taken it in for service and had two driveshafts & U-joints replaced so far.(15,000 mi) I was ready to order one but would like to hear from other owners if they have experienced the same problems.

Lee


------------------------------
>From sherwin expert.cc.purdue.edu Tue Feb 18 13:33:55 1997 From: Gregory Sherwin Subject: Ford Engines
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I currently have a 351 Modified engine in a 1984 F-150 with an automatic transmission. I threw a rod the other day and am now rebuilding the engine. The block and heads are fine but I think I am going to replace all the internal parts. Can anyone tell what the differnce is between the 351 Modified and the 400 engines.


------------------------------
>From jhazewinkel exodus.valpo.edu Tue Feb 18 14:19:32 1997 From: Jeff Hazewinkel Subject: Re: 97 F150 problems
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I have a 97 F150 with about 17,000 miles on it and have not had any driveshaft problems. My father has one also, and he has had no problems either.

Jeff


------------------------------
>From lsmeins ball.com Tue Feb 18 15:24:05 1997 From: lsmeins ball.com (Larry Smeins)
Subject: RE: '74 F-250 - Some Questions To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

----------
From: FORDTRUCKS
To: FORDTRUCKS
Subject: '74 F-250 - Some Questions
Date: Tuesday, February 18, 1997 10:28AM


Ken Payne wrote:
> Number of subscriptions has hit 100! I had expected it to hit

>I guess I must be number 100 since when I subscribed, I got a message that
>said there are 100 subscribers of the list.

>I have a '74 F-250 Supercab Longbed. I bought this truck intending to
>have a cheap beater pickup. Cost me $750. Since I am not one to leave
>broken things alone $1800 later I have a good running, relatively reliable
>truck although I haven't gotten into the brakes/wheel bearings yet. I am
>beginning to think about doing more to the truck so I have some questions.

>The body has two major problem areas. The bed is rusted through at the
>right front mounting bolt and is generally in pretty sad shape including
>the tailgate. How easy would it be to find a bed for this truck? I am
>thinking I would have to pay about $500 for a good one.

>Also there is a badly rusted spot at the lower rear corner of the cab on
>the right side. There are two layers of metal with a space between them.
>The outside layer has a hole about 3" x 6". Is there a source for new
>body panels for this truck? In this situation do you need to worry about
>the repair leaving bare metal between the two panels as a future site of
>rust?

Rust is extremely difficult to repair with a lasting fix. The problem isn't the bare metal but the fact that all protective films are burned off during the welding and new rust starts forming before the weld is cold. There are some new fluxes and wires just for this problem. If they are used a rust preventive coating is formed around the bead on both sides of the panel. I don't know who makes this stuff but a respected body man showed it too me while discussing derusting my old pickup. I'd suggest either finding it, if you are doing the work, or find a body man that understands rust control and have him weld the panels in place. If you you have repairs welded in that can be accessed from the rear wait a few days after welding them in and apply a coat of lacquer based EXTEND to the backside. EXTEND is a phosphoric acid rust treatment that really works on light rust. Its available in spray cans at places like K-Mart in the automotive section.

>The doors have several holes in them from several different mirrors over
>the years. Some of them are .5" in diameter. ??? Should I try to weld
>them up or look for some good doors to replace them?

I found aftermarket door shells for a 74 Chevy (sorry about that) for about $100 each. You can't do much body repair for that. They came fully primed with a rust preventative primer and bolted right on. Surely Ford shells are available like this. I found them at a salvage yard that specialized in Chevies


>If I do all this work to the truck, am I wasting money that would be
>better spent on a truck that is in better shape to begin with?

You can do an awful lot of work on an old truck for the cost of a new one.
It really depends on whether you need a new one to satisfy your ego or are happy with a nice reliable old one.
That Chevy I mentioned is working everyday for my son's company while I'm $30,000 poorer but have a new Ford.
>Mark
---
>Mark Tanner mtanner pacifier.com Washougal, WA



------------------------------



------------------------------
>From mdniz19 idt.net Tue Feb 18 15:41:46 1997 From: Mark Dinzebach
Subject: Re: Ford Engines
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Gregory Sherwin wrote:
>
> I currently have a 351 Modified engine in a 1984 F-150 with an
> automatic transmission. I threw a rod the other day and am now
> rebuilding the engine. The block and heads are fine but I think I am
> going to replace all the internal parts. Can anyone tell what the
> differnce is between the 351 Modified and the 400 engines.
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com


Crank,rods,pistons


------------------------------
>From canzus techline.com Tue Feb 18 20:14:58 1997 From: Steve & Rockette Subject: Re: Ford Engines
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 01:33 PM 2/18/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell what the
>differnce is between the 351 Modified and the 400 engines.

The difference is a half inch more stroke, and a different piston... The flywheel and balancer are probably not interchangable either.
The 351M uses a piston with a pin height of 1.947 in.
The 400 uses the same pin height as the 351C... 1.647 in.
They both have a 6.580" rod.
Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach



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>From ssilverthorn front.net Tue Feb 18 20:51:10 1997 From: Steve and Diana Silverthorn Subject: Re: 56 F-100s-Big window
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Mick,

I found one for you. It is advertised in the "My Classic Car" TV show www page and the
phone number is 501-272-4436 and his email is mhawkins yell.com

Good luck
Steve
(small window)


At 09:58 AM 2/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I am new to this group. I, like most F-100 lovers, am interested in finding
>a 56 F-100 with a Big Window. Does anyone on this list know how plentiful
>(rare) they are. I know that it was an option for that year but don't know
>anything else about them. Were they sold most commonly in the sunshine
>states? Here in the north, it is rare to see a 56 F-100 let alone a Big
>Window version.
>
>Thanks in advance for your reply,
>
>Mick Fulton
>
>HotRod 53 F-100
>Driven daily when I lived in Indiana
>Parked in winter now that I live in Michigan
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
>For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>


------------------------------
>From gmumma mnsinc.com Tue Feb 18 21:30:30 1997 From: Gary Mumma
Subject: RE: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 12:45 AM 2/18/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I would think that the trucks on the east coast would be very rusted by now and >be good part sources.

So far my problem has been that if the truck is rusted, so is the u-joint.
I had never heard of one of these things going bad until mine did. Now I'm finding bad ones on every truck I look at(in the junk yards)!

Gary

**************************************************************** * Gary Mumma + Ofcourse all opinions are mine, * * gmumma mnsinc.com + No one else wants to take * * Arlington, Virginia + credit for my stupidity * *++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++* * ===== Homepage located at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mnsinc.com/gmumma ===== * ****************************************************************



------------------------------
>From gmumma mnsinc.com Tue Feb 18 21:30:27 1997 From: Gary Mumma
Subject: Re: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 05:18 PM 2/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I ran into this problem several years ago, when I didn't want to pay
>Fords price. My solution was to use an intermediate shaft out of a late
>70's,early 80's GM mid size car. (Monte Carlo, Grand Prix,etc.) I was
>able to combine parts from the Ford and GM to make one shaft that
>worked. I used the truck that way for about three years and never had a
>problem. I'm sure that if you look around in a junkyard you'll find
>something that will work.

I did go to one junk yard, but I must admit that I didn't really think about looking into a GM. I may have to try again. The junk yard I went to said they had two of the shafts in stock. After the third trip, the owner only had one and that one was in worse shape than mine!

My biggest problem will probably be trying to locate a shaft (or u-joint) with a female single-D spline. I have read about companys that have double-D, but not single-D splines.

Thanks

**************************************************************** * Gary Mumma + Ofcourse all opinions are mine, * * gmumma mnsinc.com + No one else wants to take * * Arlington, Virginia + credit for my stupidity * *++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++* * ===== Homepage located at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mnsinc.com/gmumma ===== * ****************************************************************



------------------------------
>From gmumma mnsinc.com Tue Feb 18 21:30:28 1997 From: Gary Mumma
Subject: Re: Intermediate Steering Shaft 79 F150 4WD -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 05:35 PM 2/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Why not go to a junk yard and pull the part or if they won't let you
>pull it, ask them for the entire steering column with the part?

So far, the only junkyard that even said they had my part, DIDN'T. I made 3 trips to this one junkyard and on the final trip I found out that the part was frozen worse than mine. I spent about 2 hours walking around in the mud looking for another vehicle with my kind of shaft, but alas, found nothing.

Gary

**************************************************************** * Gary Mumma + Ofcourse all opinions are mine, * * gmumma mnsinc.com + No one else wants to take * * Arlington, Virginia + credit for my stupidity * *++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++* * ===== Homepage located at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mnsinc.com/gmumma ===== * ****************************************************************



------------------------------
>From bigric mail.utexas.edu Tue Feb 18 23:42:45 1997 From: bigric mail.utexas.edu (Richard Cherico) Subject: '68 F100 front disc conversion To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

When I tried to mail this last time, for some reason the server thought I (1) requested a list of subscriptions
(2) called the "which" command
Wierd stuff guys...
Anyway, here's the old message, just as it was before:

Which parts do I need to replace in order to convert to disc brakes in the front of my '68 F100? Specifically, which spindles do I need to install?
And do I need to also replace the master cylinder and/or proportioning valve? Right now it's got the 3" setup in the front. I'm just getting a little tired of constantly adjusting the front brakes evenly. Thanks for any help.

Richard Cherico
bigric mail.utexas.edu
'68 Ford F100 Stepside 360
bigric mail.utexas.edu



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>From rmeier connect.net Wed Feb 19 00:07:39 1997 From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: 47 Panel
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>~~ Thanks Steve, but can you tell me where I can find the serial >number? I
>have no paperwork with the van!
>

Mitch,
The serial will be stamped in two places on the frame. The first should be on the drivers side on top of the frame just in front of the steering box. The second will be on top of the frame over the rear wheel hump. This one is not accessable unless the body is lifted from the frame. The location varied some from year to year but this is where I think yours will be. It will be well buried beneath a heavy layer of gunk, but it is there. The one at the back is usually pretty well destroyed from rust because there were no oil leaks to protect it. Good luck finding it.
Regards,
Roger Meier



------------------------------
>From nfinney earthlink.net Wed Feb 19 00:39:15 1997 From: Nick Finney Subject: Re: '68 F100 front disc conversion To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Richard Cherico wrote:
>
> Which parts do I need to replace in order to convert to disc brakes in the
> front of my '68 F100? Specifically, which spindles do I need to install?
> And do I need to also replace the master cylinder and/or proportioning
> valve? Right now it's got the 3" setup in the front. I'm just getting a
> little tired of constantly adjusting the front brakes evenly. Thanks for
> any help.


I was contemplating swaping the front I Beams from a later F-350 on to my 69-F100 to get a good set of 8 lug rotors. I haven't really looked into this too much yet though, I will probably drive down to the junk yard sometime this month and try and ascertain whether or not the front rotors/I beams/Master Cylinder, Proportioning Valve can be swaped to my front drum truck.

Does your truck have 4 wheel drive? If not, how did you lift the front end 3 inches? And how is the suspension geometry? Don't you have too much positive camber?


--
Nick Finney
nfinney earthlink.net


------------------------------
>From nfinney earthlink.net Wed Feb 19 00:48:21 1997 From: Nick Finney Subject: Kit Kar Nox Control System
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

My 69 F-100, orig 360 is registered in SMOG HELL California. There is this little red and white sticker under the hood on the drivers side that says:

"THIS ENGINE IS EQUIPPED WITH A "KIT KAR" NOX CONTROL SYSTEM. THE DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM SPARK ADVANCE MECHANISM MUST REMAIN DE-ACTIVATED ACCORDING TO SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS IN OWNERS MANUAL"

Does anyone know what this is? It isn't an air pump because this truck doesn't have one and isn't supposed to. Where can I find more info? Ford Parts doesn't sell it.

I need to obtain one of these so I can smog my truck. It passes all of the tailpipe emissions tests, but I can't pass the visual.

Thank you.

--
Nick Finney
nfinney earthlink.net


------------------------------
>From karlc cnsii.com Wed Feb 19 01:23:03 1997 From: Karl Cunningham Subject: Re: Kit Kar Nox Control System To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

At 12:48 AM 2/19/97 -0500, Nick Finney wrote:
>Does anyone know what this is? It isn't an air pump because this truck
>doesn't have one and isn't supposed to. Where can I find more info? Ford
>Parts doesn't sell it.

I had one of these systems mistakenly installed on my '60 F250 when I bought it in '73. It turned out not to need it and I removed it. It was a little electronic gadget about 2" square that hooked up (I think) to the coil and points and the ignition switch. It also had a temperature sensor that was clamped onto the top radiator hose. As I remember, it was supposted to retard the spark to reduce NOX emissions, but if the engine started to overheat it would advance it again.

I've no idea where you'd find one, except possibly on a truck in a junk yard. What would happen if the little sticker wasn't there? Would the smog check people still know that it was supposed to have one?


Karl Cunningham
karlc cnsii.com
1960 F250 factory 4x4



------------------------------
>From silent.bob juno.com Wed Feb 19 10:02:18 1997 From: silent.bob juno.com
Subject: Dropping a 5.0 in a 95 Ranger
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hello,

I have a 95 Ranger XLT Super cab with a I4 2.3L and I im thinking about putting
a 5.0 in it sometime this summer. From what I can tell, its going to run me
about $6200, since im going to need a new trani, pipes, motor mount, starter,
etc... Can anybody give me another idea on how much this is going to cost and what other stuff is going to need to be modified to get this 5.0 in there?

Someone was telling me about a manual to do this to a Ford Ranger.
Anybody know where I can get or order one?

Thanks,

Bob


------------------------------
>From JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM Wed Feb 19 10:23:37 1997 From: JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM
Subject: Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations...

To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

It doesn't really matter who wrote:

> thinking about putting a 5.0 in it sometime

Come on fellas! I don't mean to flame anyone, but this is the Ford list, right? Do we have to pretend we buy the manufacturer's idiotic "keep up with the Joneses" designations? It was, and is, the Ford 302, the greatest small block of all time, and is not a metric engine. (8) 4.00 inch pistons stroking through 3.00 inches.

It just doesn't get any better than that!

Regards,
Jon in Houston (And if you do the math, it ain't 5.0.)


------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Wed Feb 19 10:35:44 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Dropping a 5.0 in a 95 Ranger -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

$6200 sounds a little steep. Are you doing the work yourself?

>>> 02/19/97 09:02am >>> Hello,

I have a 95 Ranger XLT Super cab with a I4 2.3L and I im thinking about putting
a 5.0 in it sometime this summer. From what I can tell, its going to run me
about $6200, since im going to need a new trani, pipes, motor mount, starter,
etc... Can anybody give me another idea on how much this is going to cost
and what other stuff is going to need to be modified to get this 5.0 in there?

Someone was telling me about a manual to do this to a Ford Ranger.
Anybody know where I can get or order one?

Thanks,

Bob


------------------------------



------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Wed Feb 19 10:35:43 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Amen, brother! I've got a 390, not a 6.4!

>>> 02/19/97 09:23am >>> It doesn't really matter who wrote:

> thinking about putting a 5.0 in it sometime

Come on fellas! I don't mean to flame anyone, but this is the Ford list, right? Do we have to pretend we buy the manufacturer's idiotic "keep up with the Joneses" designations? It was, and is, the Ford 302, the greatest
small block of all time, and is not a metric engine. (8) 4.00 inch pistons stroking through 3.00 inches.

It just doesn't get any better than that!

Regards,
Jon in Houston (And if you do the math, it ain't 5.0.)


------------------------------



------------------------------
>From payne platinum.com Wed Feb 19 10:35:43 1997 From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Manufacturers' goofy metric designations... -Reply To: FORDTRUCKS ....

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