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Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 146

Today's Topics:

RE: A bit off-topic, but here goes.. [Keith Srb ]
Draino [David McCormick
Noisy 352 [AM14 chrysler.com ]
Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #95 ["Bud Gilroy" ]
Radiator change ["Jim" ]
Re: mileage/electronic ignition how [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: mileage/electronic ignition how [rick adc.com (Rick Larson) ]
Charging Problem [Jesus Cardoso
Re: Draino ["Jason K. Schechner" ]
Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #95 [Don Grossman ]
Re: what is this???? [petunia indy.net ]
Re: Charging Problem [petunia indy.net ]
Re: Charging Problem [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: electrical problems [Chris North ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 09:37:12 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: A bit off-topic, but here goes..
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone know of any people or businesses that deal with the scale model
cars the Ford dealers used to have in their show rooms in the mid to late
sixties. I would like to find a model of my 66 F100 if possible.


Keith Srb
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Hall [SMTP:rhall eecs.umich.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 1997 7:27 AM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: A bit off-topic, but here goes..

In addition to being a fan of all-things Ford, I'm also a fervent model
car builder. I'm
looking for some older 1:25 scale AMT Ford pickup kits, specifically:

AMT '75 Ford F-350 'camper special' (called 'Star Truck' on box)
AMT '76 Ford F-350 (some variations called 'Boonie Boss' on box)
AMT '78/79 Ford Bronco

in any condition, built/unbuilt/restorable.

-Thanks,

Robert Hall
rhall eecs.umich.edu
'87 Mustang GT
'88 Bronco II
(and I used to have a neat '74 F-150 6-cyl longbed)


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------------------------------

Date: 25 Jun 97 11:08:16 -0700
From: David McCormick
To: fordtrucks
Subject: Draino
Message-Id:
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-Ascii"

If you are going to pursue using caustic lye to clean out a radiator, I
would recommend using pure lye (a brand like Red Devil) and not Draino,
which I believe has metals and other stuff in it. I would not do it without
removing the radiator completely. At that point, why not let a radiator
shop handle this for you? I think this stuff can eat aluminum.

I have used lye as a cheap means of removing paint from parts in a
tractor restoration. It is a great way to easily remove laquer paints. The
stuff is extremely dangerous. Good ventilation, a respirator, gloves, apron,
and eye protection are a must. I have heard that the lye can be
neutralized with an acidic solution after you are through with it, but have no
first-hand knowledge of this.

Above all, be careful!

Dave McCormick
mccormickd njc.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 97 15:53:22 EDT
From: AM14 chrysler.com
To: "FOMOCO Truck B/S list"
Subject: Noisy 352
Message-ID:

DC Beatty..

I've been gone a couple of weeks..... Did you ever get that 352 quited
down???????

WORKING TO BE THE BEST
Azie Magnusson
PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Chrysler.com
Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 13:04:37 +0000
From: "Bud Gilroy"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #95
Message-Id:

Unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 14:42:41 -0700
From: "Jim"
To: "Ford Trucks"
Subject: Radiator change
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

A friend of mine installed underdrive pulleys in his 94 5.0
T5 Mustang and experienced an overheating problem do to the
water pump being slowed, so he upgraded to a Griffin
radiator, and gave me his stock radiator.
Would a stock 5.0 Mustang (looks like 2 row side tank) be
more efficient than my stock extra cooling radiator on my
'73 F100? I would need to add a Trans cooler. No problem, I
don't like my Trans fluid in the radiator anyway. Had a bad
experience a long time ago, pink foam through out my cooling
system and transmission, was a bad day! I would also add an
external Trans filter and an RV shift kit. All the Trans
stuff is in the works anyway! BTW I use an electric fan now,
so there is no problem as far as fan to radiator distance.
I don't want any arguing now...HaHahahahahahahaha,
:) uhm, no really... hahaha some times I just
crack me up! TIA!

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom
'77 Buick Estate Wagon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 14:49:21 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: mileage/electronic ignition how 2
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Steve, Jim, Daver, Marko (and anyone else I forgot),
>
>Thanks for the update on the Duraspark hookup. I didn't
>think it would be that hard. It turns out I pulled a goofy
>distributor/coil/spark box from a '79 Ford wagon.
>
>I think I have the 1979 dual mode system. It contains three
>extra wires that connects to an additional module used to
>compensate for altitude changes and engine load conditions.
>There is some kind of bank of resistors, selected by a vacuum
>controlled switch inside that extra box.
>
>Its been suggested I pass on this. I hope the bone yard will
>take it back :-(.
>
>Does anyone know if a new spark box will work with the existing
>Duraspark distributor/coil I pulled? I't might be easier to
>get the spark box switched at the yard.


Rick: Yes, the coil and dist will work.

You can always go to walmart and buy a WEST box (brand new) for aboutr $30
(I paid $35 cdn). Do not fortet to grab the harness.

Once you have done this, it will be a snap.

marko

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 20:26:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: mileage/electronic ignition how 2
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Marko,
>
>
> Rick: Yes, the coil and dist will work.
>
> You can always go to walmart and buy a WEST box (brand new) for aboutr $30
> (I paid $35 cdn). Do not fortet to grab the harness.
>
> Once you have done this, it will be a snap.

Thanks.

rick

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 10:06:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jesus Cardoso
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Charging Problem
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Howdy Everyone,

I would like to thank everyone that replied about my clutch
problem. I got it replaced and it works great....can't believe what a
difference a new clutch makes on a truck!
Well now I have a new problem and I hope someone can help me. I
got the truck ('63 F100, 292, 3 speed) back yesterday and I drove it
around for a few hours, then all of a sudden it died on me and would not
start. I got it started with my other car and it would stay running, but
when I turned off and tryed to start it gain the starter would turn very
slowly. It seems that the generator is producing only voltage (max. of
13.5 V at high rmps) and little to no current. I took out and got it
tested at my local Hi/Lo and they confirmed that is was bad. I also got
the battery tested and the starter, just in case, they are fine.
One of the guys at the store told me to replace the voltage
regulator as well because sometimes they "get stuck" and can burn out a
new generator. The thing is that the voltage regulator is about two
months old. Should I also replace the voltage regulator or should I leave
it alone?

Thanks for your help.

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso tamu.edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso

:::::::::::::::"Todos en el mundo sonreimos en la misma lengua.":::::::::::::::

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 11:16:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jason K. Schechner"
To: fordtrucks
Subject: Re: Draino
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On 25 Jun 1997, David McCormick wrote:

> I have used lye as a cheap means of removing paint from parts in a
> tractor restoration. It is a great way to easily remove laquer paints. The
> stuff is extremely dangerous. Good ventilation, a respirator, gloves, apron,
> and eye protection are a must. I have heard that the lye can be
> neutralized with an acidic solution after you are through with it, but have no
> first-hand knowledge of this.

Yes, lye (Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH) can be neutralized with an
acidic solution but *DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME* If not done correctly you
will end up with a very violent reaction that is likely to spew hot acid
and lye all over the place doing a hell of a lot of damage. Acids and
bases (of which lye is the strongest known) are opposites of each other
and will neutralize each other if you are careful andk now what you are
doing. To see a safer version of an acid/base reaction take a small
amount of vinegar (acetic acid - a weak acid) and drop in a little baking
soda (Sodium Bicarbonate - a weak base). Imagine doing that with two
*very* dangerous materials and you'll get some idea of whta you're up
against trying to neutralize Lye.
Now, on a happier note, if you mix things *exactly* correctly you
can add Hydrocloric acid (HCl) to lye (NaOH) and you end up with drinkable
salt water: NaCL and HOH (H2O). On the other hand I wouldn't try this
unless I had reagent grade NaOH and HCl and even then not without some
damned accurate equipment. IOW: don't try this at home. Please!

> Above all, be careful!

hear hear. Lye is extremely dangerous - even more so than most
acids. On that basis alone I would strongly recommend steering clear of
lye for cleaning a radiator and just using one of the off-the-shelf
products like Prestone Flush, or the like.

-Jason, glad that his chem degree is being put to good use. :-)
79 Bronco (351M, C6, 33" BFG AT's) GRN GYNT - offroad monster
79 Bronco (400M, C6, 31" Wranglers) blue - road beast
95 Mustang GT (hers) bone stock
95 Mustang GT (his) Eibachs, 3.55's, K&N, 13deg timing


-----
Jason K. Schechner - Unix Sysadmin - Oracle Corp
check out www.cauce.org and help ban spam-mail.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 16:53:59 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #95
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Bud Gilroy wrote:
>
> Unsubscribe
>

But I like being on the list!
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......


63 Ford F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 22:03:30 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: what is this????
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Good one Sabes!!!

> Just one note I made from the last posting...
>
> "Here's the info that I received a couple emails about where I got my
> reproduction service manual.........."
>
> Well, I am not an expert on the subject of reproduction, however, I feel I
> must comment.
> 1) who writes these things?
> 2) do they offend community standards?
> 3) Is there an option for a VHS version?
> 4) Is there a link to this on alt/binaries/erotica
> 5) whatever happened to using your imagination and good ole'
> fashioned American know-how.
>
> :~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~)
> SEE 'em smiley faces!

Hey you forgot the "politically correct" number 6..
6.) Don't ask, don't tell!!!
;) Back atcha!

I REALLY think you took what I said out of context
a WEEE little bit!! I guess I outta remember that there sure are
a bunch of folks out there getting these messages, all coming from
different perspectives!!

Thanks for the laugh!

Eric

petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 23:40:51 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Charging Problem
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Jesus,

> Well now I have a new problem and I hope someone can help me. I
> got the truck ('63 F100, 292, 3 speed) back yesterday and I drove it
> around for a few hours, then all of a sudden it died on me and would not
> start.

This happened to me 2 weeks ago. How did your truck "die"?.... did
it backfire as it was dying, like mine did, indicating lack of spark?
(My coil went bad when it got hot). Or did the engine just stop
working, as if you had a lack of fuel problem?

How your truck "dies" can tell you alot and where to start trouble
shooting.

>I got it started with my other car and it would stay running, but
> when I turned off and tryed to start it gain the starter would turn very
> slowly.

More than likely due to a weakened battery since you sound like you
were cranking it awhile to get it started once again. Heck, a new
battery will crank the engine slow if you have to try a bunch of
times to get the engine to start.

> It seems that the generator is producing only voltage (max. of
> 13.5 V at high rmps) and little to no current. I took out and got it
> tested at my local Hi/Lo and they confirmed that is was bad. I also got
> the battery tested and the starter, just in case, they are fine.

> One of the guys at the store told me to replace the voltage
> regulator as well because sometimes they "get stuck" and can burn out a
> new generator. The thing is that the voltage regulator is about two
> months old. Should I also replace the voltage regulator or should I leave
> it alone?

How much for the new voltage regulator? I just bought my coil from
Napa for $30 bucks (they're REAL proud of that sucker, I guess) but I
recently found one for $14... shop around). If the voltage reg is
cheap, then it certainly wouldn't hurt to swap it out. I think I'll
be swapping mine out next payday, just to know when the thing was
new.

Anyways, I know your truck has been with you a few months less than
I've had mine (since Dec. '96) and I have just about swapped out all
the ignition parts on mine (and some other stuff too) just to be
sure. I (and I suspect you too) have no idea when the last time
somebody did a tune up or when some of these parts were replaced
last. Since I use my truck for a daily driver, it was worth my
couple of extra bucks to swap out some parts for new for sometimes
nothing more than piece of mind. My coil just went out before I had
a chance to change it for my "new-ownership-overhaul". Dumb luck I
guess!

I believe that the manual that I wrote you about earlier has a
voltage regulator test procedure to tell you if it's good or bad.
I'm up way past my bedtime right now, but I'll check my manual
and give you a line tomorrow.

Good luck,

Eric
petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 23:17:39 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Charging Problem
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Howdy Everyone,
>
> I would like to thank everyone that replied about my clutch
>problem. I got it replaced and it works great....can't believe what a
>difference a new clutch makes on a truck!
> Well now I have a new problem and I hope someone can help me. I
>got the truck ('63 F100, 292, 3 speed) back yesterday and I drove it
>around for a few hours, then all of a sudden it died on me and would not
>start. I got it started with my other car and it would stay running, but
>when I turned off and tryed to start it gain the starter would turn very
>slowly. It seems that the generator is producing only voltage (max. of
>13.5 V at high rmps) and little to no current. I took out and got it
>tested at my local Hi/Lo and they confirmed that is was bad. I also got
>the battery tested and the starter, just in case, they are fine.
> One of the guys at the store told me to replace the voltage
>regulator as well because sometimes they "get stuck" and can burn out a
>new generator. The thing is that the voltage regulator is about two
>months old. Should I also replace the voltage regulator or should I leave
>it alone?
>

Jesus,

Now that there's a heatwave, you aren't the only one with this problem.

This happened to me awhile ago, and it happened all of a sudden. What my
problem was, the battery dried out.

When it dries, it does not charge, so the alternator does not make a
substantial current. If your battery has holes, add water (if necc) and see
what happens. If your battery is really dry, it may take hours of charging
to shock it back to life. Don't smoke/spark around a charging battery!!

Oh yeah, make sure your charging wire isn't corroded.

Also, clean your battery terminals (you'd be surprised...)

Finally, swap a good battery and see if that affects the charging.

If not, go to Wal Mart or some such place, and buy an ELECTRONIC regulator
(no coil, no points) should be about 15 or 20 bucks, and swap that in.



good luck


marko in vancouver

marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 22:43:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris North
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: electrical problems
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>i have a 73 bronco which i just recently bought.....
>the engine seems to be in good shape ...the body needs some rust repair
>but on to my question....i seem to have a problem with the electrical
>system....the battery is receiving power and it starts just fine but the
>headlights do a really weird flashing thing and brighten when the motor
>is revved...the brake lights don't work ....(which explains why people
>have been riding my butt when i turn!!)
>and i think that's the major part of it ...there are some other small
>things like the radio cutting in and out when i hit a bump but i haven't
>checked connections on it yet.....
>OH YEAH!! I JUST REMEMBERED...it also does a weird thing when i start
>it and the radio is on...it seems to blow the fuse ...this is also the
>fuse for the gas and oil gauges etc. so i dont know what that's all
>about....
>so any info on this would be greatly appreciated...and if anyone has any
>sheet metal that's in good shape for a early bronco...i would be very
>interested in that also...and what is the going rate for a total
>rewiring?? anyone had that done recently...i think that if it is not too
>expensive...that it would be the most intelligent option...
>
>anyway...thanks for reading all this babble.....kevin rasberry...
>
> rasberry aaaa.net

Oh, electrical problems. I find it very strange how something as simple
and straightforward as electrical wiring gets so fouled up when you put it
on a automobile (similar things happen when you put it on a boat as well).
I think it has something to do with Einstein's theory of relativity.
Either that or the laws of physics change when dealing with a vehicle
(personally, I go for the latter).

Anyway, you can replace the wiring harnesses, but this can get expensive.
For a 73, I doubt your Ford dealer would still stock what you need, but you
might get lucky. Otherwise, you either go with a reproduction (expensive,
the underdash harness for a 1965 car I am restoring goes for over $500) or
a junkyard harness (around $25). With the junkyard harness, remember that
it is just as old as yours. Typically, there are 3 or 4 harnesses on the
vehicle. My suggestion is to inspect your wires. If the insulation is
good and nobody has spliced into them (to install a radio, a trailer light
hook-up, etc...) and there are no burnt wires, then your harnesses are
probably OK.

If your harness is OK, then check your connectors. There is a bulkhead
connector where the wires pass through the firewall. Check both sides.
There is a connector to your instrument panel. There may be other major
harness connectors. Make sure they are clean (electrical contact cleaner)
and shinny--no corrosion. If you do have corroded connectors, consider
replacing the connectors with a solder splice (crimp on connectors work
well, but if you plan on keeping the Bronco, solder it and you won't have
to fix it again).

If your connectors are fine, then check each component. Your headlight
flicker sounds like your voltage regulator. No brake lights are either
bulbs (sometimes new ones are bad), the switch on the brake pedal (I think....

---

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