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Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 145

Today's Topics:

Re: mileage/electronic ignition how [rick adc.com (Rick Larson) ]
Draino as cleaner [Ken Payne ]
Re: Lye Warning (was Re: Rising Temp [Chris North ]
RE: what is this???? [Randy Collins ]
electrical problems [rasberry ]
You guys are way outa control!! [gusinks ruraltel.net (Clark Gustafs]
FE's and ign system bits.. [sdelanty sonic.net ]
69 F250 [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: Draino as cleaner ["Jim" ]
Re: You guys are way outa control!! ["Jim" ]
Ford Truck Models [John Strauss
RE: A bit off-topic, but here goes.. [Keith Srb ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 22:49:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: mileage/electronic ignition how 2
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Steve, Jim, Daver, Marko (and anyone else I forgot),

Thanks for the update on the Duraspark hookup. I didn't
think it would be that hard. It turns out I pulled a goofy
distributor/coil/spark box from a '79 Ford wagon.

I think I have the 1979 dual mode system. It contains three
extra wires that connects to an additional module used to
compensate for altitude changes and engine load conditions.
There is some kind of bank of resistors, selected by a vacuum
controlled switch inside that extra box.

Its been suggested I pass on this. I hope the bone yard will
take it back :-(.

Does anyone know if a new spark box will work with the existing
Duraspark distributor/coil I pulled? I't might be easier to
get the spark box switched at the yard.

Thanks again,

rick

'66 Mustang
'71 F100 *Custom* daily driver (16 mpg on last tank :-)
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com
Minneapolis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:30:55 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Draino as cleaner
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Although I've never heard of using Draino in the radiator
and I can see the possibility that it could cause problems
I have heard (and used this method) that Draino is an
excellant parts cleaner. Strips part down to bare metal
(including eating away at plastic/rubber so be careful).
Many restoration sources recommend this method. I personally
don't know about it's affects on aluminum but it can eat
rubber (seals). However, I would imagine that it would
not stay in a radiator for long and it's probably watered
down quite a bit. I guess what I'm trying to say is that
the specific application done right may not harm the
water pump but could if it was not applied right.

Just my $0.02 worth, :-)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:59:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris North
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Lye Warning (was Re: Rising Temp 2)
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>You are absolutly correct I just had the replace my radiator and I
>cleaned it a number of time with Draino that has to be what got it. You
>know those DAMN things SHOULD last longer than 408,000 miles. STUPID
>
If it works for you and you haven't had any problems handling it, GREAT!
But you obviously have no aluminum components in you cooling system. As I
said I would, I looked up the resistance of brass and solder to corrosion
in strong caustic solutions (sodium hydroxide) at work today. No adverse
reactions. (Don't try to use ammonia, though!) I still don't recommend
using this as a radiator flush, however, as the stuff is bad news if you
get any on you. The commerical products are formulated by people who have
spent their life dealing with a problem that you and I deal with, what,
once every two years?

>STUPID ME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
{no comment}

Chris North | I always think I'm right although I know that |
Metallurgist | I must be wrong sometimes, I think. |

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:09:32 -0700
From: Randy Collins
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: what is this????
Message-ID:
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From: William Sabers [SMTP:wsabers sunflowr.usd.edu]
Subject: what is this????

Just one note I made from the last posting...

"Here's the info that I received a couple emails about where I got my
reproduction service manual.........."
Well, I am not an expert on the subject of reproduction, however, I feel I
must comment.
1) who writes these things?
2) do they offend community standards?
3) Is there an option for a VHS version?
4) Is there a link to this on alt/binaries/erotica
5) whatever happened to using your imagination and good ole'
fashioned American know-how.

:~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~)
SEE 'em smiley faces!


It took me a minute, but I get it....

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6




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Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 01:50:01 -0500
From: rasberry
To: "fordtrucks lofcom.com"
Subject: electrical problems
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

i have a 73 bronco which i just recently bought.....
the engine seems to be in good shape ...the body needs some rust repair
but on to my question....i seem to have a problem with the electrical
system....the battery is receiving power and it starts just fine but the
headlights do a really weird flashing thing and brighten when the motor
is revved...the brake lights don't work ....(which explains why people
have been riding my butt when i turn!!)
and i think that's the major part of it ...there are some other small
things like the radio cutting in and out when i hit a bump but i haven't
checked connections on it yet.....
OH YEAH!! I JUST REMEMBERED...it also does a weird thing when i start
it and the radio is on...it seems to blow the fuse ...this is also the
fuse for the gas and oil gauges etc. so i dont know what that's all
about....
so any info on this would be greatly appreciated...and if anyone has any
sheet metal that's in good shape for a early bronco...i would be very
interested in that also...and what is the going rate for a total
rewiring?? anyone had that done recently...i think that if it is not too
expensive...that it would be the most intelligent option...

anyway...thanks for reading all this babble.....kevin rasberry...

rasberry aaaa.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 01:58:17 -0500
From: gusinks ruraltel.net (Clark Gustafson)
To: "Ford Truck Mailing List"
Subject: You guys are way outa control!!
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

UNBELIEVABLE!! I just ask a simple question, I love it...great stuff.
Anyway I hope that this will help you guy's argument, I replaced the
thermostat with a 160 degree one and now the gauge will get up to beyond
"H" and stay there for about one to one and a half minutes then it quickly
drops to between the "M" and "P" and stays there. It doesn't seem to be
heating up any more ( I hope ). I thank you for your help and discussion,
NOW for my .02 cents worth of "Fluid Dynamics", correct me if I am an idiot
but didn't before, when there was no thermostat, the fluid was just rushing
through the engine as fast as my old water pump could move it, and it was
never sitting in the radiator long enough to get cooled. And now that there
is a thermostat it has to sit there till the engine block water gets warmed
to 145-160 and open the thermostat and let the water travel out and let
cool water in? Makes perfect sense to me!! Well anyway I thank you for your
help fellas and keep up the good work. "Ride on Lightening Gear!!"
> One more question, the crank-case breater tube on the passenger side had
a rag stuck in it, and as a result (I think) I was getting oil all over the
inside of my engine, just on the pass. side, Shop said from the oil
dip-stick caused by blow-by, I said horse-hockey, that bad of blow by would
cause blue smoke and fouled plugs, right. I removed the hose with the rag
in it and now no more oil on top of engine.....heres the kicker, the vent
tube has a vacuum to it, so why was it causing the oil to push out?
Shouldn't it have pulled the oil back into the case with the rag in it like
it was? You argue over that one and let me know!! Good luck. Thanks, Griz.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:06:15 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: FE's and ign system bits..
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Just in case some of You FE guys are wishing You could use the large
diameter distributor cap and rotor with 8.5mm plug wires on Your stock FE
points or duraspark distributor, but Your parts guy can't find the right
parts for FE (mine couldn't), be aware that the large cap, cap adaptor and
rotor from a *302* distributor fit the FE distributor just fine. I realized
they were the same while at the auto wreckers.
There was dozens of big caps and adaptors on '80's 302's but none on FE's.
I bought the cap, *adaptor* and rotor for $2.
And the local parts guys found me new cap/rotor when I told them its for a
1980 econoline van with a 302, instead of a truck with FE390...

My MSD likes the big diameter cap and 8.5mm wires much better.
It gave me a little trouble with the smaller stuff.
Smooth as silk now.. (-:

Anyway, thought I'd put that out there in case not everyone knew the bigger
stuff fits...


Happy motoring,


Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonic.net)

1971 F100, FE390, T-18 4-speed shortbox.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:23:04 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: 69 F250
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I need a wiring diagram for the turn signal and horn for a 69 F250 with power
>steering. I put a new turn switch in and the horn doesn't work. The new
>harness has different colors the the original and i can't make the horn work.
>So i anybody has any suggestion you can e-mail me direct or fax me here at
>work. My e-mail address is DMH5150 aol.com and my fax number is
>1-801-265-2143.
>Also if any body has a service manual they would like to sell please let me
>know. Thanks Daren Hale

Daren,

If You've had the steering wheel off to replace the turn sig switch, then
one thing to make sure of is that the little spring loaded copper contact
for the horn button is still in place.
The first time I pulled the wheel on my '71 mine popped out and I didn't
realized it until I had the wheel back on and the horn didn't work.. )-:
I had to pull the steer wheel off and put the thing back in and it was fine.

Hope Yours is as easy...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonic.net)

1971 F100, FE390, T-18 4-speed shortbox.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:48:00 -0700
From: "Jim"
To:
Subject: Re: Draino as cleaner
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The hoses are rubber! How would it effect them?

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom
'77 Buick Estate Wagon


----------
> From: Ken Payne
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Draino as cleaner
> Date: Tuesday, June 24, 1997 9:30 PM
>
> Although I've never heard of using Draino in the radiator
> and I can see the possibility that it could cause problems
> I have heard (and used this method) that Draino is an
> excellant parts cleaner. Strips part down to bare metal
> (including eating away at plastic/rubber so be careful).
> Many restoration sources recommend this method. I
personally
> don't know about it's affects on aluminum but it can eat
> rubber (seals). However, I would imagine that it would
> not stay in a radiator for long and it's probably watered
> down quite a bit. I guess what I'm trying to say is that
> the specific application done right may not harm the
> water pump but could if it was not applied right.
>
> Just my $0.02 worth, :-)
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
_______
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 01:30:18 -0700
From: "Jim"
To:
Subject: Re: You guys are way outa control!!
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

How come you act like something more than just a discussion
is going on here! Are you trying to instigate something? :)
Glad you have it under control Bro!
Later!

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom
'77 Buick Estate Wagon


----------
> From: Clark Gustafson
> To: Ford Truck Mailing List
> Subject: You guys are way outa control!!
> Date: Tuesday, June 24, 1997 11:58 PM
>
> UNBELIEVABLE!! I just ask a simple question, I love
it...great stuff.
> Anyway I hope that this will help you guy's argument, I
replaced the
> thermostat with a 160 degree one and now the gauge will
get up to beyond
> "H" and stay there for about one to one and a half minutes
then it quickly
> drops to between the "M" and "P" and stays there. It
doesn't seem to be
> heating up any more ( I hope ). I thank you for your help
and discussion,
> NOW for my .02 cents worth of "Fluid Dynamics", correct me
if I am an idiot
> but didn't before, when there was no thermostat, the fluid
was just rushing
> through the engine as fast as my old water pump could move
it, and it was
> never sitting in the radiator long enough to get cooled.
And now that there
> is a thermostat it has to sit there till the engine block
water gets warmed
> to 145-160 and open the thermostat and let the water
travel out and let
> cool water in? Makes perfect sense to me!! Well anyway I
thank you for your
> help fellas and keep up the good work. "Ride on
Lightening Gear!!"
> > One more question, the crank-case breater tube on the
passenger side had
> a rag stuck in it, and as a result (I think) I was getting
oil all over the
> inside of my engine, just on the pass. side, Shop said
from the oil
> dip-stick caused by blow-by, I said horse-hockey, that bad
of blow by would
> cause blue smoke and fouled plugs, right. I removed the
hose with the rag
> in it and now no more oil on top of engine.....heres the
kicker, the vent
> tube has a vacuum to it, so why was it causing the oil to
push out?
> Shouldn't it have pulled the oil back into the case with
the rag in it like
> it was? You argue over that one and let me know!! Good
luck. Thanks, Griz.
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
_______
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 07:57:20 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: Ford Truck Models
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>In addition to being a fan of all-things Ford, I'm also a fervent model
>car builder. I'm looking for some older 1:25 scale AMT Ford pickup kits,
>specifically:
>
>AMT '75 Ford F-350 'camper special' (called 'Star Truck' on box)
>AMT '76 Ford F-350 (some variations called 'Boonie Boss' on box)

I have one of each of these that I built when I was a kid but I don't think
my Mom would part with them at this point...

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 09:35:13 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: A bit off-topic, but here goes..
Message-ID:
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC814B.8CA539A0"

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC814B.8CA539A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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Does anyone know of any people or businesses that deal with the scale model
cars the Ford dealers used to have in their show rooms in the mid to late
sixties. I would like to find a model of my 66 F100 if possible.


Keith Srb
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Hall [SMTP:rhall eecs.umich.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 1997 7:27 AM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: A bit off-topic, but here goes..

In addition to being a fan of all-things Ford, I'm also a fervent model
car builder. I'm
looking for some older 1:25 scale AMT Ford pickup kits, specifically:

AMT '75 Ford F-350 'camper special' (called 'Star Truck' on box)
AMT '76 Ford F-350 (some variations called 'Boonie Boss' on box)
AMT '78/79 Ford Bronco

in any condition, built/unbuilt/restorable.

-Thanks,

Robert Hall
rhall eecs.umich.edu
'87 Mustang GT
'88 Bronco II
(and I used to have a neat '74 F-150 6-cyl longbed)


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

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