------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 144

Today's Topics:

RE: hemi in a ford [Kevin Kemmerer ]
A bit off-topic, but here goes.. [Robert Hall ]
69 F250 [DMH5150 aol.com ]
Wheel Bearings [John Strauss
'78 F150 [John Strauss
RE: A bit off-topic, but here goes.. [Keith Srb ]
RE:Cooling problems, Questions on En [RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.co]
F1 Page Updated [Dan Wentz ]
RE: Rising Temp 2 (more info) [DC Beatty
Re: A bit off-topic, but here goes.. [Ken Payne ]
Re: 69 F250 [Ken Payne ]
Re: Aluminum Rocker Arm Covers for Y [petunia indy.net ]
Old Ford Truck Service Manual Info [petunia indy.net ]
Re: Wheel Bearings [Daver ]
Re: hemi in a ford [Daver ]
Re: Rising Temperature... [Daver ]
what is this???? [William Sabers
Re: Rising Temperature... [Daver ]
Re: Lye Warning (was Re: Rising Temp [Daver ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 10:06:35 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: hemi in a ford
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

so, what makes you think that a hemi is too much for a 1/2 ton ford =
frame?
i have a 77 and a 79 ford. the 77 is a 1/2 ton the 79 a 1 ton. the 77 =
frame is actually stronger. both trucks are used for truck pulling, and =
the 77 sees some street running too.
both trucks have built 460's. my current motor in the 77 has over 500 =
lbs ft torque just off idle and doesn't fall below that until 6000 rpm. =
max torque is over 600 lbsft. find me a hemi or any other motor with =
more than that and i'll be happy to put it in!! my chassis stays =
together quit well launching hard on the street or pulling the sled down =
the track! i have some friends (competition!) who have 900+ hp big =
blocks in their fords, and the chassis takes it.

axles, though are another story! i currently run a 9" in the 77 and it =
breaks alot. always on the track, and always when i am getting traction =
more than i expected for a given track. i run 3.50 gears, and a lower =
gear ratio would help strengthen the gearset, but it is the center =
section that busts. generally into two large chunks, leaving the gears =
reusable. a nodular iron third member would help, but at almost $400 is =
costly. i am moving to dana 60 and dana 70/80 axles in near future.

this is the final word. DO IT!! you'll need to upgrade the rears if =
that hemi isn't stock and maybe a good idea even for a stock hemi. the =
chassis can take it. and dodge sells all the parts now to fix the hemi =
if you run it too hard! it would be a wild ride, but why not get that =
hemi, find the car it belongs in and put it there tossing a good 460 =
into the truck for less work and less money and less time?

yah, you're right the hemi would be the e-ticket ride!!

sleddog


----------
From: Chris North[SMTP:chrisn infohwy.com]
Sent: Monday, June 23, 1997 7:51 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: hemi in a ford

>hey,
>
> I have just come apon a guy that might be interested in selling me
>his 426 Hemi. Has anyone put one of these in a pickup before? The
>truck it will be going into has a 1979 ford 1/2 ton frame. This
>might be more than I'm looking for, but if its not too much of an
>extremity, I might go for it. That is, if I get a good enough deal
>on it. From the way he talks, the hemi is more of a motor than he
>would ever want to own. hahaha.
>
>Jordan- 1956 Ford/1979 ford chassis
>

I really think that a 1/2 ton (even a Ford) frame would have trouble =
with
the torque the elephant motor would put out. The cars Chrysler put the
HEMI motors in had a specially designed frame and suspension to handle =
the
motor. That is why the HEMI cars fetch such a high price--they are a =
lot
more than your standard 'Cuda with a 426 shoehorned in. In addition to
frame and suspension, think about electrical, brakes, and fuel systems.
Not to mention the tranny, clutch, and rear end. Chrysler put a Dana 60
behind the HEMI's. The Ford 9" is a great rear, but a HEMI will break =
it.
In addition, parts for the HEMI cost 4 times standard Chrysler parts, =
which
cost 1.5 times that of Ford parts.

Now, I do know a guy with a 69 R/T HEMI car that might be interested.

chris north



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 08:26:45 -0600
From: Robert Hall
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: A bit off-topic, but here goes..
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In addition to being a fan of all-things Ford, I'm also a fervent model
car builder. I'm
looking for some older 1:25 scale AMT Ford pickup kits, specifically:

AMT '75 Ford F-350 'camper special' (called 'Star Truck' on box)
AMT '76 Ford F-350 (some variations called 'Boonie Boss' on box)
AMT '78/79 Ford Bronco

in any condition, built/unbuilt/restorable.

-Thanks,

Robert Hall
rhall eecs.umich.edu
'87 Mustang GT
'88 Bronco II
(and I used to have a neat '74 F-150 6-cyl longbed)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 10:27:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: DMH5150 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 69 F250
Message-ID:

I need a wiring diagram for the turn signal and horn for a 69 F250 with power
steering. I put a new turn switch in and the horn doesn't work. The new
harness has different colors the the original and i can't make the horn work.
So i anybody has any suggestion you can e-mail me direct or fax me here at
work. My e-mail address is DMH5150 aol.com and my fax number is
1-801-265-2143.
Also if any body has a service manual they would like to sell please let me
know. Thanks Daren Hale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 09:49:40 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: Wheel Bearings
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> I always wondered about how tight to tighten the front wheel bearings on
>my truck and van. Usually I just tighten it down real snug, loosen it up
>1/4 turn and then snug again. I can't find anything in the manuals about
>if I need to torque them down or whatever. There seems to be a lot of
>mechanical experience on this list so I was hoping to learn something new.
>The rear wheels also have fluid bearings with a 2 9/16th inch nut holding
>the axle on and I just snug them down too.
>
For 2WD, use a pair plyers and crank the nut down as tight as you can
(using plyers instead of a wrench or rachet prevents overtightening, in
case you were wondering). Then turn the rotor or drum a couple of times.
This will compress/squish out the grease in the bearings. Now loosen the
nut up and then retighten by hand only. This method was taught to me by my
high school auto mechanics teacher and I have used it for over 20 years
without a problem.

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 10:01:40 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: '78 F150
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I don't know a whole lot about Ford trucks, most of my experience is
>with german cars. But it's time I moved up. Would it be worth it to
>fix up a '78 F150 Custom SB 4x4? Body is in reasonable shape.
>Transfer case probably needs rebuilding. Even though the shifter goes
>full range the transmission will not engage unless it is in 4 wheel
>low. What exactly is a 351M 400CID?
>
I guess it depends on how much you have to pay for the truck.

These are very nice trucks, IMHO. They are extremely rugged and nice
looking too in SWB 4x4 trim. It sounds like your xfer case is shot. The
trans is going into gear but power is not transferred thru the t-case
unless in 4-low. I assume you have an automatic? If so it is a C6, also
very rugged and reliable.

The 351M/400 is actually 2 motors. I assume you are getting the "351M/400"
designation from the tune-up sticker on the left valve cover? I think it
says "Engine Series" or something like that. Under that it will say
"Displacement" I think and that will tell you which one you have. These
were the only V8s available on the '78 4x4 trucks. The 351M is pretty much
a slug as far as power/mileage is concerned but the 400 pulls well. A nice
swap that many have done on such a truck is to move up to the 460. All you
need is special motor mounts (available from a company called L&L) and an
Econoline oil pan for the 460. The trans will bolt up as is.

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 09:46:12 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: A bit off-topic, but here goes..
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone know of any people or businesses that deal with the scale model
cars the Ford dealers used to have in their show rooms in the mid to late
sixties. I would like to find a model of my 66 F100 if possible.


Keith Srb
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Hall [SMTP:rhall eecs.umich.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 1997 7:27 AM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: A bit off-topic, but here goes..

In addition to being a fan of all-things Ford, I'm also a fervent model
car builder. I'm
looking for some older 1:25 scale AMT Ford pickup kits, specifically:

AMT '75 Ford F-350 'camper special' (called 'Star Truck' on box)
AMT '76 Ford F-350 (some variations called 'Boonie Boss' on box)
AMT '78/79 Ford Bronco

in any condition, built/unbuilt/restorable.

-Thanks,

Robert Hall
rhall eecs.umich.edu
'87 Mustang GT
'88 Bronco II
(and I used to have a neat '74 F-150 6-cyl longbed)


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 97 17:25:31 -0400
From: RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: RE:Cooling problems, Questions on Engin Colors
Message-Id:

Item Subject: Text Item
Hello all,

In response to the question on cooling and to get my .02 in,
My first love (61 F100 w/72 352ci) always ran hot. If it is only
running hot at slow speeds a flex fan will help.(Above 20mph the fan
doesn't do anything). Verify that the gage (sender) is good. Mine was
defective. With a good gage if everything is OK you can tell when
the thermostat opens and closes. It ran hot but never boiled or
stranded me. As someone here said try the simple things first. My
latest love 54 F100 the thermostat was in backwards.

Does anyone know what the engine color is on a 54 223-6?

Thanks,

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 15:56:10 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: F1 Page Updated
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I've spent all day working on my F1 page--mostly fixing bad links and
adding pictures. If you've never seen it, or if you've been waiting for me
to add some pictures, why not check it out. Thanks.

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: 24 Jun 97 18:57:14 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Rising Temp 2 (more info)
Message-ID:

If it's actually getting too hot, shouldn't it boil over the second you turn off
the key??? This has been my experience.
Sorry if I'm repeating, but I would check the sending unit or the gauge. These
are likely culprits.

I have been running my ugly Maverick for 6 years or so with a big rotted hole in
the top tank. It hisses and I have to put coolant in it every month or so, but
the dummy light has never come on and it has never boiled over. I'm running a
lighter pressure cap too.

Good luck,

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

----------
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To: "Ford Truck Mailing List"
Subject: Rising Temp 2 (more info)

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It's me again, I Have totally replaced the radiator with a new one just
recently, and I am still heating up as I said before ( p in TEMP ). I
checked and I don't have a head gasket problem, thanks for the great info,
Steve. When I went to buy coolant at the parts store the Parts dude told
me that I would need two gallons for my radiator so thats what I used, is
that to much? And like I ask earlier, is there any symptoms of a bad water
pump, I can open the cap and see water moving in the radiator but not at
like warp speed I would think it should be moving w/o the thermostat....I
don't know. Is it real hard to change the freeze plugs, can I do it myself
or does it require removal of engine? I was thinking of putting in a flex
fan too, I don't know what the hell to do, Darn thing runs to good to give
up! Just one little problem, and its fustrating as hell! Well I will pull
the water pump and see, Thanks again for the info, Keep on Truckin' .
Thanks , Griz.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:16:12 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: A bit off-topic, but here goes..
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 08:26 AM 6/24/97 -0600, you wrote:
>In addition to being a fan of all-things Ford, I'm also a fervent model
>car builder. I'm
>looking for some older 1:25 scale AMT Ford pickup kits, specifically:
>
>AMT '75 Ford F-350 'camper special' (called 'Star Truck' on box)
>AMT '76 Ford F-350 (some variations called 'Boonie Boss' on box)
>AMT '78/79 Ford Bronco
>
>in any condition, built/unbuilt/restorable.
>
>-Thanks,
>
>Robert Hall
>rhall eecs.umich.edu
>'87 Mustang GT
>'88 Bronco II
>(and I used to have a neat '74 F-150 6-cyl longbed)
>

Off topic? Heck no! It actually sounds pretty neat! Would round out
the collection of Ford brochures and similar stuff for alot of restorers!
Now if you had said Ch*vy models....


-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:19:00 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Cc: DMH5150 aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 F250
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 10:27 AM 6/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I need a wiring diagram for the turn signal and horn for a 69 F250 with power
>steering. I put a new turn switch in and the horn doesn't work. The new
>harness has different colors the the original and i can't make the horn work.
>So i anybody has any suggestion you can e-mail me direct or fax me here at
>work. My e-mail address is DMH5150 aol.com and my fax number is
>1-801-265-2143.
>Also if any body has a service manual they would like to sell please let me
>know. Thanks Daren Hale
>

Daren, have you tried wiring the horn and manually hooking it up to the
battery? This will tell you if the horn is "tuned", it won't work if its not.
The horn should have an adjustment screw on it. Turn it almost all
the way out and then turn it in until it just touches the metal plate inside
the horn. Test it and try turning it 1/4 or more in each direction until
it works.

-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:31:44 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Aluminum Rocker Arm Covers for Y-Block Engines...
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Jon,

> Does anyone out in old-Ford-land know if there are (were?) aftermarket
> aluminum rocker arm covers available for the Y-block V-8 engine, or were
> they only available with the dress-up kit for the '55-'57 T-Birds?

I have a Ford truck catalog where I've seen these aluminum covers.
They were about $295 if I remember correctly! If you are really
interested, I will get you the catalog info......

> I would like to get my hands on a pair of these for the 292 in my '64 F-100
> to replace the somewhat leaky steel originals, but am not prepared to pay
> an arm and a leg for the T-Bird items.

Let me know if you want the info, and I'll rummage through the
catalogs I've got if the $295 isn't your definition of "an arm and a
leg!"

Eric
petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:41:47 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Old Ford Truck Service Manual Info
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Here's the info that I received a couple emails about where I got my
reproduction service manual for my '61 F100. I promised I'd get it
out, so here it is....I have no affiliation whatsoever with this
company, I was just very satisfied with my single dealing with
them. My manual was $63 deliveried to my door, and has more info in
it than I can shake a stick at!!! (I think the various years manuals
will be in the same price range.)

FAXON Auto Literature
3901 Carter Ave.
Riverside, CA 92501
(800) 458-2734

Later,
Eric

petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:49:38 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The Zahns wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> I always wondered about how tight to tighten the front wheel bearings on
> my truck and van. Usually I just tighten it down real snug, loosen it up
> 1/4 turn and then snug again. I can't find anything in the manuals about
> if I need to torque them down or whatever. There seems to be a lot of
> mechanical experience on this list so I was hoping to learn something new.
> The rear wheels also have fluid bearings with a 2 9/16th inch nut holding
> the axle on and I just snug them down too.

I always tighten them down as tight as I can then turn the wheel a few
turns and snug them up. I usually go back and check them after 100 or
so miles.

No torking required.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:51:44 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: hemi in a ford
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

jstandle oregontrail.net wrote:
>
> hey,
>
> I have just come apon a guy that might be interested in selling me
> his 426 Hemi. Has anyone put one of these in a pickup before? The
> truck it will be going into has a 1979 ford 1/2 ton frame. This
> might be more than I'm looking for, but if its not too much of an
> extremity, I might go for it. That is, if I get a good enough deal
> on it. From the way he talks, the hemi is more of a motor than he
> would ever want to own. hahaha.
>
> Jordan- 1956 Ford/1979 ford chassis

If you do not want it let me know where it's at.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 21:04:37 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Rising Temperature...
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

sdelanty sonic.net wrote:
>
> > If the engine is running
> >high RPM then obviuosly the fluid is traveling much faster; therefore,
> >under common conditions the thermostat is used to accomplish this and in
> >extream conditions we who run, high performance stuff, lots of RPM's use
> >a smaller crank pully to drive the water pump to slow it down.
>
> Is the smaller pulley used to change the rate of heat transfer in the block
> or radiator?
> Or to reduce problems with Pump cavitation at high rpms?
>
> Happy motoring,
>
> Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonic.net)
>
> 1971 F100, FE390, T-18 4-speed shortbox.

It is actually a combination of things. Thee main goal is to slow fluid
travel down, the cavitation ocures during thermostat closure and high
RPM's cuase air pockets BTW the reason the fluid draw off the radiator
is from the bottom of the block up is to keep the engine cavities
flooded if it filled from the top and runs down the chamber will
develope large air pockets.

Molater

Daver

p.s. I'll dig about in my collection of books and publish names here
tomarrow night.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 21:18:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: William Sabers
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: what is this????
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Just one note I made from the last posting...

"Here's the info that I received a couple emails about where I got my
reproduction service manual.........."

Well, I am not an expert on the subject of reproduction, however, I feel I
must comment.
1) who writes these things?
2) do they offend community standards?
3) Is there an option for a VHS version?
4) Is there a link to this on alt/binaries/erotica
5) whatever happened to using your imagination and good ole'
fashioned American know-how.

:~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~) :~):~) :~)
SEE 'em smiley faces!

Wsabers
78 Bronco
69 Mach I

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 21:33:59 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Rising Temperature...
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> >however, there is a minimum and a maximum flow at either end that must
> >be maintained to accomplish correct cooling.
>
> OK. Even though I am not sure what you mean by 'correct cooling' I can
> agree that there is a minimum flow that must be maintained (with no flow,
> you aren't going to do any cooling). I do have a problem with the maximum
> flow part, though. Assuming we are not talking about such high velocities
> where frictional heating and/or cavitation occur in the radiator, I am not
> aware of any phenomena which would cause the faster flowing fluid to
> decrease the rate of heat exchange. There is a point where increasing the
> flow would not bring about a signifigant increase in the heat transfer rate

the speed of the coolant does not decrease the fluids ability to
transfer heat it decreases the amount of time it has to do so.

> If the engine is running
> >high RPM then obviuosly the fluid is traveling much faster;
>
> Not so. The pump is running faster, but the coolant is only traveling as
> fast as the thermostat will permit.

This is what we said the thermostat controls the rate of flow through
the system and by doing so allows more time for the fluid in the
radiator to reach it's maximum heat transfer.

>
> therefore,
> >under common conditions the thermostat is used to accomplish this and in
> >extream conditions we who run, high performance stuff, lots of RPM's use
> >a smaller crank pully to drive the water pump to slow it down.
>
> Again, not so. The smaller crank pully is used to (1) slow the speed of
> the belts down, reducing the likelyhood of throwing a belt [not a good
> thing], and (2) reduce the torque the accessories put on the motor,
> allowing more power to go to the tranny.

Man I have racing for 15 years and this is the first I have heard of
this. If the belt were the problem I'd go to an electric water pump and
be done with it. Please what ever you do don't tell the paxton boys
about this they turn thier supper chargers with belts and usually turn 9
and 10 thousand RPM and Lanauti's bunch has a belt driven cam set for
SB's for RPM in excees of 10 and 11 thousand. The dirt track mini's
general turn thier 2.3's up to 10 and 11 RPM with a timing belt.

>
> >
> >Cris if the boundry layer did exist it is not moving;
>
> The boundary layer does exist and, depending of the velocity (really, the
> Reynolds number) of the fluid, different parts of it have varying speeds.
>
> thus, it does not
> >accomplish any thing.
>
> Well, it does accomplish at least one thing, it impedes heat transfer.
>
> there is a speed difference between inner and
> >outer streem in a round tube but it is a very insucnificant difference
> >and radiators do not have round tubes.
>
> These differences in speed exist regardless of the geometry of the tube.
> Again, you really have to look at the Reynolds number to determine how
> signifigant it is.
>
> >
> >If a thermostat is funtioning properly and is properly sized to the
> >coolant system it doesn't simply open and stay opened, it opens allowing
> >the water in the block to enter the radiator and as that happens the
> >cooler water from the radiator enters the block as this cooler water
> >contacts the thermostat it closes stoping the flow of water until such
> >time as the water in the block becomes hot enough to open it again. My
> >67 carries a 190 thermostat and doesn't exceed 190 it really only holds
> >190 for a few seconds and I can watch the gauge (an actual termometer or
> >mecanical gauge) and see it drop off rapidly back to 180 in the summer
> >and 175 in the winter then slowly rise back to 190.
>
> Typically, once the engine and coolant reach a 'steady state' (as in
> crusing down the highway for 30 minutes or so) the thermostat _will_ open
> slightly and stay open so that flow through the radiator will dissipate the....

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