------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 142

Today's Topics:

Re: Rising Temp 2 ["George Shepherd"
Re: Rising Temp 2 [Chris Kelly ]
Gas Tank Differences [Peter Bondra ]
clutch? on '63 [John Strauss
Aluminum Rocker Arm Covers for Y-Blo [jtmiller UCSD.EDU (Jon Miller) ]
Re: Gas Tank Differences ["George Shepherd"
Re: Bodt Seam Filler. [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
Re: Aluminum Rocker Arm Covers for Y ["Jim" ]
Re: temperature check ["Mitch Miller" ]
Re: '92 F150 fuel gauge [pmm2 lehigh.edu (PATRICK M MURPHY) ]
Re: Rising Temp 2 [LanceWaldn aol.com ]
custom [scott schmidt ]
Re: mileage/electronic ignition how [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: Rising Temp 2 [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Rising Temp 2 (more info) [gusinks ruraltel.net (Clark Gustafs]
Re: Rising Temp 2 [STATX5 aol.com ]
RE: Bodt Seam Filler. [Keith Srb ]
Re: Bodt Seam Filler. [Greg Charney ]
Re: Rising Temperature... [Daver ]
Re: 460 cu. in. [Daver ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 01:30:30 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Rising Temp 2
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Clark,

Sorry you got caught up in the "flow thing" I think the simple answer for
you regarding the thermostat is that the company engineers put one in and
meant for it to be there. It really ain't one of those things you can
improve on like tires, where cost is a factor.

All sorts of things can impeed flow-I don't remember your original post,
but I think you said you had put a new or rebuilt radiator in. If not, do
so. Make sure the bottom hose from the radiator to the water pump has its
inside support wire and is not collapsing, which can starve the motor.
Water pumps can be improved, Several after market companies make water
pumps. You might check one of these out. Find some one with a vom that has
a temperature probe-Radio Shack has one--and check various parts of the
radiator while running. If you find its got hot spots-it needs replacing.

Running lean. Find someone with a portable exhaust analyzer.
Symptoms-running hot, spitting back through the carb, burned plugs. Get a
Haynes manual, they have a section on how to read spark plugs. That can
tell you a lot about running lean or rich.

----------
> From: Clark Gustafson
> To: Ford Truck Mailing List
> Subject: Rising Temp 2
> Date: Monday, June 23, 1997 12:16 AM
>
> I am beginning to be sorry I even wrote for assistance, I didn't mean for
> you guys to get in a (pardon the wording) heated discussion over it. I
> would however like to know what the symptoms of a lean running engine
are.
> I was also wondering if there is any chance that if I install a electric
> fan that it may help. And is there any way a person can check the
> performance of a water pump w/o teardown and removal of such. Well I am
> still heating up (outside hump in "P" on TEMP) only after traveling a
short
> distance (25 mi) and have no clue. Again any HELP would be appreciated.
> Thanks again, Griz.
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 05:59:35 -0400
From: Chris Kelly
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Rising Temp 2
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Clark Gustafson wrote:
>
> I am beginning to be sorry I even wrote for assistance, I didn't mean for
> you guys to get in a (pardon the wording) heated discussion over it. I
> would however like to know what the symptoms of a lean running engine are.
> I was also wondering if there is any chance that if I install a electric
> fan that it may help. And is there any way a person can check the
> performance of a water pump w/o teardown and removal of such. Well I am
> still heating up (outside hump in "P" on TEMP) only after traveling a short
> distance (25 mi) and have no clue. Again any HELP would be appreciated.
> Thanks again, Griz.
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com


Hey Clark. You can try to wiggle the shaft on the water pump there
should be no play there, if there is then that is one sign of a bad
water pump. The thermostat someone said you cannot improve on, well I
think they may be wrong, I forget where I saw it at, maybe Performance
Products, has a new thermostat that stays closed til it hits the right
temperature then it stays partially open to keep it running at exactly
that temperature. instead of closing and opening...it stays partially
open all the time...suppposedly anyway..I think it cost like 12 bucks.
If you take of the radiator cap and watch it warm up you should be able
to tell if the water pump is working when the thermostat opens...if you
seeee it circulating then its okay...if not or it is very slow then you
may have a bad water pump! Hope this is helpful!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 08:10:29 -0700
From: Peter Bondra
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Gas Tank Differences
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone know why the panel tanks are inside the frame, by the
driveshaft, but the pickup tanks are outside the frame?
Why did Ford bother to move the panel tank inside? I am sure they had a
good reason, but what was it?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 07:54:54 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: clutch? on '63
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> It has been a while since I posted on the list, up to now my truck
>was running okay. The trouble that I am experiencing with my '63
>(F100 lwb flareside, 292 Y-block, 3 speed on the column) is that is the
>past week or so it has become harder to shift. I am pretty sure that it
>is the clutch but I would like some opinions on what else it could
>possibly be. The truck has been slipping for about four months now,
>basicly when I shift into gear and step on the gas hard the engine revs up
>and the truck moves slowly, but when I step of the gas and give it time to
>catch up with the engine everything is fine. Basicly I have no take off
>power in any gear or when ever I step on the gas hard it does not respond.
>
It sounds like a clutch to me and it's fixing to leave you stranded. As a
last ditch effort you could try an adjustment. You would need to shorten
the clutch rod at the transmission. It could be that the clutch is not
being allowed to engage fully by too much pedal rod. If you have some
slack in the linkage at rest then you need a new clutch.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 07:04:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: jtmiller UCSD.EDU (Jon Miller)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com (Ford Trucks List)
Subject: Aluminum Rocker Arm Covers for Y-Block Engines...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Does anyone out in old-Ford-land know if there are (were?) aftermarket
aluminum rocker arm covers available for the Y-block V-8 engine, or were
they only available with the dress-up kit for the '55-'57 T-Birds?

I would like to get my hands on a pair of these for the 292 in my '64 F-100
to replace the somewhat leaky steel originals, but am not prepared to pay
an arm and a leg for the T-Bird items.

TIA

Jon Miller -+- jtmiller ucsd.edu

'64 F-100 shortbed, 292-cid V-8, Warner T-98E four-speed.

--

-------------------------------------------
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O ------------------------------
=========================================== Jon Miller (jtmiller ucsd.edu)
| | | | | | ------------------------------
| | | | | | UCSD Audio-Visual Services
| | | | | | 9500 Gilman Dr., 0504
| | | | | | La Jolla, CA 92093-0504
-------------------------------------------
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 619/534-4458
-------------------------------------------

WARNING: E-mail address is to be used for official communications only and
**shall not** be used for any unauthorized use, including junk e-mail
("spams").

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 09:58:57 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Differences
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Mainly safety reasons. Tanks inside the rails are safer. (Side impact
lawsuits) Tanks outside the rails are cheaper.

----------
> From: Peter Bondra
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Gas Tank Differences
> Date: Monday, June 23, 1997 10:10 AM
>
> Does anyone know why the panel tanks are inside the frame, by the
> driveshaft, but the pickup tanks are outside the frame?
> Why did Ford bother to move the panel tank inside? I am sure they had a
> good reason, but what was it?
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 11:08:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Bodt Seam Filler.
Message-ID:

If I remember right, the 3M stuff is called "Drip Check". It acts like
silicon but is paintable. I got it at Napa.
Lance

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 08:08:48 -0700
From: "Jim"
To:
Subject: Re: Aluminum Rocker Arm Covers for Y-Block Engines...
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

You may want to call Summit at 330-630-3030. I looked in
the catalog and didn't find them, but that's not to say they
don't carry them. Looks like aluminum cost an arm and a leg
no matter what they go on. But they have chrome small block
Ford for $27.99 a pair and a dress up kit for $52.69.
Later!

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom
'77 Buick Estate Wagon


----------
> From: Jon Miller
> To: Ford Trucks List
> Subject: Aluminum Rocker Arm Covers for Y-Block Engines...
> Date: Monday, June 23, 1997 7:04 AM
>
> Does anyone out in old-Ford-land know if there are (were?)
aftermarket
> aluminum rocker arm covers available for the Y-block V-8
engine, or were
> they only available with the dress-up kit for the '55-'57
T-Birds?
>
> I would like to get my hands on a pair of these for the
292 in my '64 F-100
> to replace the somewhat leaky steel originals, but am not
prepared to pay
> an arm and a leg for the T-Bird items.
>
> TIA
>
> Jon Miller -+- jtmiller ucsd.edu
>
> '64 F-100 shortbed, 292-cid V-8, Warner T-98E four-speed.
>
> --
>
> -------------------------------------------
> O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O
- ----------------------------
> =========================================== Jon Miller
(jtmiller ucsd.edu)
> | | | | | |
- ----------------------------
> | | | | | | UCSD
Audio-Visual Services
> | | | | | | 9500 Gilman
Dr., 0504
> | | | | | | La Jolla,
CA 92093-0504
> -------------------------------------------
> O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O
619/534-4458
> -------------------------------------------
>
> WARNING: E-mail address is to be used for official
communications only and
> **shall not** be used for any unauthorized use, including
junk e-mail
> ("spams").
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
_______
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 10:08:03 -0500
From: "Mitch Miller"
To:
Subject: Re: temperature check
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Just to get in my comments: I had three different problems with my
flathead. First problem was a cracked block. Pulled the heads and then
pulled the motor. After I had a rebuilt flathead installed, it kept
overheating, I pulled the rad and had it re-cored. Turns out it was nearly
totally plugged. About 10% getting through. Once it was repaired, the
rad-shop boy told me that it would be big enough for a transport truck.
Then when my guage told me that it was still running too hot, I took the
rad cap off and plunked in a meat-thermometer. Sure enough, the temp was
right on the mark. Problem was a sending unit. Changed that and never
another concern. I'm running 160 thermostats year-round, but I think I
will up that to 170 (too cold in the winter).

Mitch
mmiller dryden.net
'46 Pickup
'47 Panel Delivery
'88 rusty Bronco

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 12:08:39 EDT
From: pmm2 lehigh.edu (PATRICK M MURPHY)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '92 F150 fuel gauge
Message-Id:

Ken,


I would like also to be switched to the 1980 or newer. I also have the same
guage problem. 1989 F-250 4x4.


Thank You,
Pat Murphy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 12:54:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: LanceWaldn aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Rising Temp 2
Message-ID:

I was out of town all last week and don't know if I caught all of this
discussion, but have you checked the clutch on the fan?
Just a thought.
To cure the cooling problems on my '56 F-100 with 302 and C4 tranny, I
installed a Flow Cooler water pump, installed a 19" fan on a heavy duty fan
clutch, changed to a Robertshaw high flow thermostat and added an extra
transmission cooler.
I removed the air conditioning condenser from in front of the radiator and
now don't suffer any more heating problems.
Lance

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 14:01:39 -0700
From: scott schmidt
To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
Subject: custom
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi, my friend just bought a ford but is not sure what kind it is. He
knows it is a 80 and inside it says custom. do the older trucks even
go by f150 etc.

thanks,SCOTTIE SCHMIDT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 11:04:32 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: mileage/electronic ignition how 2
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Hi Steve!
> I have a '73 F100 and my electronic ignition is from a '77
>Mercury. My starter relay has 4 wires, 1 from the battery
>and 1 to the starter. The other 2 are the ones I used.
>Red\blue 12v key to start is where I spliced the white wire
>and brown 12v key on is where I spliced the red wire. There
>is no resistor on my truck. The red\green wire running to
>the coil acts as the resistor and was eliminated with the
>electronic ignition. BTW the red\green wire comes off the
>brown wire so I considered it to be before the resistor.
>
>REF: Haynes Ford Pick-ups & Bronco 1973 thru 1979, fig 10
>pg. 203
>
> Well Bro, how's it look? Electricity and me do not get
>along (We just don't understand each other)! I looked at the
>wiring diagram a hundred times, used a test light and
>multimeter to come up with this when I installed the
>ignition. But I'm ignorant in electronics, no I take that
>back, with all I've read and classes I've taken on
>electronics, I can no longer claim ignorance, now it's
>stupidity :)
> Any information, instruction or correction will be greatly
>appreciated. While on the subject of ignition, what the hell
>does dielectric do and why is it so important that I put it
>on every time I pull a plug wire?
>

Jim

Hi, I did a changeover on my 71 360 and it was a breeze. The trouble is,
ford changed the colors on the box and on the harnesses from year to year
(so the wiring diagrams will confuse the *&#$^ out of anyone). This is what
to do:

Go to the wreckers and get:

* a distributor
* a coil
* the harness from the coil (including the plastic terminal connector) and
from the distributor back to the firewall.

If you need a spare ignition box go to Wal Mart and buy a West aftermarket
one for about 20 or 30 bucks, don't bother going to ford.

If you look in that very manual under "electrical" they show the typical
wiring setup for a point and electronic system.

Both systems need power. The ignition box takes power thru the red wire.
The power comes from the ignition via a wire from the firewall, which is
contained in a two-wire, one-male-one-female black plug. This plug is used
on both electronic and point type ignitions so you will find it. On point
type ignitions it gives power to the coil; on electronics it gives power to
the box, and the coil if I'm not mistaken. You'll see the red wire goes to
the coil and to the box on the harness from the e.i. car. A second wire
from the box, black probably, should be grounded or hooked to your neutral
safety switch. Unless you have an automatic or are accident-prone or
otherwise deficient you should just ground it.

Then there will be two wires in another plug, going to the distributor.
These are the wires for the magnetic pickup. Finally, there will be another
wire going to the other post on the coil, periodically grounding it when the
box senses the magnetic pulse from the distributor.

All the ignition box really is, is an electronic on/off switch for the coil,
controlled by a remote magnetic controller (the stator and pickup in the
distributor). If you think of it this way, you should have no problem
wiring it.

Oh yeah, I think you may have to change one of those big fat plug connectors
from male to female, but that's about all the cutting and pasting you'll
have to do.

Ask any more questions you want, if you wanna fax me something like a
drawing you can at (604) 687-3141.


marko in vancouver
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 11:24:38 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Rising Temp 2
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I am beginning to be sorry I even wrote for assistance, I didn't mean for
>you guys to get in a (pardon the wording) heated discussion over it. I
>would however like to know what the symptoms of a lean running engine are.
>I was also wondering if there is any chance that if I install a electric
>fan that it may help. And is there any way a person can check the
>performance of a water pump w/o teardown and removal of such. Well I am
>still heating up (outside hump in "P" on TEMP) only after traveling a short
>distance (25 mi) and have no clue. Again any HELP would be appreciated.
>Thanks again, Griz.
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>


Hi Clark,

BTW what kind of engine are you running? In what kind of truck?

I had a similar problem in an old 78 cougar beater I had. Here's what you do:

1) check to see your coolant level is full, there are no obvious broken
hoses, no big obstructions (newspapers, cardboard, etc.) in front of your
radiator, your fan belt is not broken, there is no puddle of green coolant
under your car, the A/C if equipped is shut OFF, the radiator cap is on, and
it is not 140 degrees outside.

2) grab your fan pulley and wiggle it. If you can't wiggle it a lot you're
probably ok with the water pump. but to double check, go to step 3

3) start your truck with the radiator cap OFF and the engine COLD and watch
it warm up. You will notice after a few minutes the radiator coolant
starting to be sucked down and thru the radiator. This is good and means
your water pump is working.

4) when your truck is hot and idling, CHECK FOR LEAKS!!

5) start your truck and run it MORE than 25 miles. You need to know if the
thing will boil or not. If the temperature goes up pretty well all the way,
and you get either those big clouds of steam from underhood, or a noise like
boiling (or somebody rattling a rock around in a can).

6) answer the following questions:

did the problem start kinda suddenly?
how old is the engine, and has it been left standing for awhile
(months) and
then run again?
did you find any leaks?
did your engine boil after doing step 5?

7) get a compression check. it sounds to me that you have a partly blown
headgasket. This causes hot burning gases to go from the combustion chamber
to the water jacket and boil it. The only other thing I saw was on a GM
once the head had a hairline crack and then coolant would leak into the
combustion chamber and gases into the head. Neither of these problems is
that bad to fix, but make sure you check all the cheap things first.

any questions, write.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 16:15:08 -0500
From: gusinks ruraltel.net (Clark Gustafson)
To: "Ford Truck Mailing List"
Subject: Rising Temp 2 (more info)
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

It's me again, I Have totally replaced the radiator with a new one just
recently, and I am still heating up as I said before ( p in TEMP ). I
checked and I don't have a head gasket problem, thanks for the great info,
Steve. When I went to buy coolant at the parts store the Parts dude told
me that I would need two gallons for my radiator so thats what I used, is
that to much? And like I ask earlier, is there any symptoms of a bad water
pump, I can open the cap and see water moving in the radiator but not at
like warp speed I would think it should be moving w/o the thermostat....I
don't know. Is it real hard to change the freeze plugs, can I do it myself
or does it require removal of engine? I was thinking of putting in a flex
fan too, I don't know what the hell to do, Darn thing runs to good to give
up! Just one little problem, and its fustrating as hell! Well I will pull
the water pump and see, Thanks again for the info, Keep on Truckin' .
Thanks , Griz.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 17:53:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: STATX5 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Rising Temp 2
Message-ID:

Do compression check a bad head gasket my cause a loss of coolant ,and or
rise in temp.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 15:49:09 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Bodt Seam Filler.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey Eric,

What is Eastwood Companies web site address ??

Keith Srb
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


-----Original Message-----
From: petunia indy.net [SMTP:petunia indy.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 1997 2:52 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Bodt Seam Filler.

Hey Keith,

> Does anyone know what compound Ford used in some of the body seams on my
Truck?
> One example of the seams I am talking about is the seam between the sheet
> metal on the outside of the box and the sheet metal for the corner of the
box.
> The corner of the box that holds the taillight.

Yes, check with the Eastwood Company. They sell a product made by (I
think) 3M that is specific for this purpose. I haven't used
it yet, but I'll need a bunch of the stuff myself! They've got a
website, but if yor need their phone number, I can get it for you.

Oh, I've had a couple of guys ask me about where I got my service
manual for my '61..... I didn't forget to post the company and phone
number, 'cuz I'm still trying to find the info... Hopefully by
tomorrow!

Later,
Eric
petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 18:43:54 -0700
From: Greg Charney
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Bodt Seam Filler.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Keith Srb wrote:
>
> Hey Eric,
>
> What is Eastwood Companies web site address ??
>

The Eastwood Companies web site address is
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.eastwoodco.com/

Greg Charney
adw436 freenet.mb.ca
72 f250 360
50 International

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 19:45:34 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Rising Temperature...
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

George Shepherd wrote:
>
> Dear Chris,
> I hate to continue your argument thread, you probably think you've beat it
> to death. You argument with regard to the boundry layer and speed of the
> fluid is wrong. Heat transfers best at the optimim speed of the
> fluid(absent super speeds such as you mentioned where friction plays a
> role) The optimum speed of the fluid can be studied. Not to fast, not to
> slow between the surface of the 2 heat exchangers and the fluid, the
> radiator being the more efficient of the 2 heat exchangers in a
> motor-radiator set-up. Optimum speed for the motor may not be optimum speed
> for the radiator. There are a lot of heat exchange papers that have been
> published, I like you to give me some of the references that support your
> version of the situation.
> ----------

I have serveral problems with Crisis argument George is correct. You
are dealing with a subject that I am experienced in and the Boundry
layer can only exist if you have a laminar flow through the tubes. I am
a Piping Designer by trade been doing this and related work for about 15
years and heat exchange is one of the primary things you deal with in
Crude refining. You can effectivly increase the rate of heat exchange
by varing the speed at which the fluid runs through the radiator;
however, there is a minimum and a maximum flow at either end that must
be maintained to accomplish correct cooling. If the engine is running
high RPM then obviuosly the fluid is traveling much faster; therefore,
under common conditions the thermostat is used to accomplish this and in
extream conditions we who run, high performance stuff, lots of RPM's use
a smaller crank pully to drive the water pump to slow it down.

Cris if the boundry layer did exist it is not moving; thus, it does not
accomplish any thing. there is a speed difference between inner and
outer streem in a round tube but it is a very insucnificant difference
and radiators do not have round tubes.

If a thermostat is funtioning properly and is properly sized to the
coolant system it doesn't simply open and stay opened, it opens allowing
the water in the block to enter the radiator and as that happens the....

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