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Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 138

Today's Topics:

Re: 302 to 429 [Jonathan Martin
Brake lights coming on by themselves [John Strauss
Re: Brake lights coming on by themse [petunia indy.net ]
ADMIN: Security problems resolved [Ken Payne ]
On a quiet night you can hear a Chev [Ken Payne ]
Re: On a quiet night you can hear a ["Wagger" ]
Re: On a quiet night you can hear a [Daver ]
Re: On a quiet night you can hear a [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
67-72 tailgate [Ken Payne ]
Re: On a quiet night you can hear a [petunia indy.net ]
RE:Dualie!!!! ["Alexander M. Siu"
RE:Valve Cover ["Alexander M. Siu"
Rising Temperature... [gusinks ruraltel.net (Clark Gustafs]

Administrivia:

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Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 12:21:45 -0400
From: Jonathan Martin
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 302 to 429
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

jstandle oregontrail.net wrote:

> Does anyone know how much difficulty it is to swap from a small block
> ford such as my 302, to a big block, like a 429. I know I need the
> C-6 tranny to take the power. But must I change frame mounts???
> do I need different ones? or could it be as simple as a dodge and
> just change motor mounts?
>
> Jordan - 1956 Ford F-100/1979 Chassis, 302 auto
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
> to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

I am curently swapping a 351W with a 460 and I am changing them and I'm
pretty sure you will have to. They are positioned differant for the
bigger block, but I could be wrong just my $.02

Jonathan Martin
'77 F100 Flareside soon to have 460

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Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 08:21:15 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Cc: petunia indy.net
Subject: Brake lights coming on by themselves
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>If the suggestions in this email aren't the culprits, and if you're
>still having these problems, let me know. I can suggest a bunch of
>simple tests that you can perform to determine the problem.
>But remember, as "my" saying goes.... check the easy stuff first!!
>;-)
>
Well, the master cylinder is new too but I did paint it including the cap.
Where is the vent hole? Is it in the center? I didn't know it was vented.
The paint could have plugged it up. I also thought about this being the
cause because the sun shines on the truck in the afternoon (it is in my
carport) and does heat things up because the gas tank always get
pressurized during this time. I guess I didn't think that much pressure
could get built up in there.

As far as I know, the brake light switch is the same for manual and power.
The vacuum booster is in-line AFTER the master cylinder. The switch is a
Ford part.

Maybe the next time I see the brake lights are on, I should take off the
master cylinder cap to see if that makes them go off?

John

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Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 19:43:57 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Brake lights coming on by themselves
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Hey John,

> Well, the master cylinder is new too but I did paint it including the cap.
> Where is the vent hole? Is it in the center? I didn't know it was vented.
> The paint could have plugged it up. I also thought about this being the
> cause because the sun shines on the truck in the afternoon (it is in my
> carport) and does heat things up because the gas tank always get
> pressurized during this time. I guess I didn't think that much pressure
> could get built up in there.

If you have the "fruitjar" master cylinder resevior like my '61's,
then on the plastic screw top you will see a small hole. I think it's
a little off center on the top plastic cap. There should be a
rubber boot in the cap that will expand/contract as the fluid level
changes. I don't think that enough pressure could build up even with
the hole plugged to turn your brake lights on, but it's an easy
check. The hole is about the size of a .7mm (mechanical pencil
lead). Paint could have easily plugged this hole, and maybe you've
got a little too much brake fluid in the resevior that's compounding
this? Just a thought.

> Maybe the next time I see the brake lights are on, I should take off the
> master cylinder cap to see if that makes them go off?

This would certainly be a quick and easy test!

Good luck,
Eric

petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================

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Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 23:21:50 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: ADMIN: Security problems resolved
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Turns out that a list member was posting them onto a private
newsgroup of his own for ease of use and a configuration error
was letting the newsfeed get out to the world. No one
intentionally posted any list messages to the world.

-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 23:25:46 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Well, actually my Ford. I've got some rust to get rid of before I
prep it for paint. What's the best way to get rid of the rust and
prep it so it doesn't come back before I paint? Its going to be
a couple of months before I can paint it but I can't stand seeing
it rust in the mean-time. The rust is around the rain catcher lip
around the doors and cab. Also, does anyone out there want to
sell their choke knob?

-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 21:10:20 -0600
From: "Wagger"
To:
Subject: Re: On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi ken,
After being an apprentice body man for 10 years I have tryed everything,
and found that while most think primer will stop rust, it dosen't. Primer
is very pourous as you may know. Rust will seep through within a week in
some places. The best way I've found is to prime with a sandable primes
then follow up with a simi or gloss paint fogged on. This will make it so
the water beads up and won't be too hard to remove before the final coat.
Good Luck Sir,
Charlie SR.

----------
> From: Ken Payne
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust...
> Date: Wednesday, June 18, 1997 9:25 PM
>
> Well, actually my Ford. I've got some rust to get rid of before I
> prep it for paint. What's the best way to get rid of the rust and
> prep it so it doesn't come back before I paint? Its going to be
> a couple of months before I can paint it but I can't stand seeing
> it rust in the mean-time. The rust is around the rain catcher lip
> around the doors and cab. Also, does anyone out there want to
> sell their choke knob?
>
> -Ken
> 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
> List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
> Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 23:31:02 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust...
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> Well, actually my Ford. I've got some rust to get rid of before I
> prep it for paint. What's the best way to get rid of the rust and
> prep it so it doesn't come back before I paint? Its going to be
> a couple of months before I can paint it but I can't stand seeing
> it rust in the mean-time. The rust is around the rain catcher lip
> around the doors and cab. Also, does anyone out there want to
> sell their choke knob?
>
> -Ken
> 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
> List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
> Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
> http://www.ford-trucks.com

Ken:

clean,it as best you can then either use a 2 component primer that
etches and seals or prime it and then shoot a good sealer over it. The
only thing better than a sponge for soaking up water is primer, it is
poorus to allow the paint to stick a good sealer will stop this and is
not a bad idea to use even if you are going to go strait on with the
paint.

Molater

Daver

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Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 10:06:38 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Well, actually my Ford. I've got some rust to get rid of before I
>prep it for paint. What's the best way to get rid of the rust and
>prep it so it doesn't come back before I paint? Its going to be
>a couple of months before I can paint it but I can't stand seeing
>it rust in the mean-time. The rust is around the rain catcher lip
>around the doors and cab. Also, does anyone out there want to
>sell their choke knob?
>
>-Ken
>1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
>List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com

Grind it out!! Or, cut it out. Rust is like cancer, once it starts you
have to hack it out or it will spread.

Once you've ground it out (assuming it's not too bad), use a good zinc
primer or some such rust inhibiting primer to seal. Primer is kinda porous
so don't drive too far without paint on it.


marko in vancouver

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Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 22:03:31 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 67-72 tailgate
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I found a gem! A 71 F100 Ranger tailgate in perfect condition!
Snatched it up in a hurry this morning. If anyone here is in
the Atlanta area call Allen City Auto Parts (junk yard). They
have a dent free Ranger F100 bed already off the frame in
beautiful condition with perfect tail lights and trim. Its
burgandy/white. Anyone want my old tailgate? Its in decent
shape but not really a restorable item because of a nasty crease
and dings in the "FORD".

-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 22:36:21 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust...
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Hey Ken and all,

Well, I think you've got unanimous answers saying "seal that primer
before painting". I agree with this 110%. I spent a great deal of
time and some bucks when I painted my scooter a few years
back. I went with the Chromabase/Chromacoat system by Dupont, but
the guy at the paint counter talked me into the extra few bucks for
the primer sealer, which I was hesitant to buy..... boy am I glad I
did get it though! Nowhere on my bike (and it's been ridden all
over the US and even into Canada) is there a spot of rust,
because nowhere has the primer sealer wore through. Flying rocks and
even gasoline hasn't penetrated the primer sealer.... even when the
paint and clear coat are gone... (long story here about how I know
gas eats this type of paint and clearcoat, but doesn't touch the
primer sealer.... but don't ask, just trust me on this one!)

Anyways, I second, third, forth...etc. that motion to use primer
sealer..... It will be under my truck's new paint job, when the time
comes! (As a side note, the primer sealer is supposed to help
prevent any bondo fixes from showing through, too...if that's
applicable to your truck?)

Good luck,

Eric


petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 23:34:31 -0500 (EST)
From: "Alexander M. Siu"
To: "wang456.aol.com"
Cc: Ford List
Subject: RE:Dualie!!!!
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Mikew,

I don't know anything about that they are changing the 10 bolts to a 8
bolts. As for wheel size, a F450 comes in a strip chassie anyway, the
front wheel size may be the same, but the rear wheel can be change as long
as the aspect stays the same. Using truck tries, they can do anything.

As for wheels, you can get some from Alcoa, the makes wheels for anything.
and yes the F-450 also, 10 bolts. F-350 8bolts, Mack trucks.....

What are you doing with this F450? Dump truck, Roll back, Tow truck,
Delievery truck? Ambulance? I only have similators on my wheels.

-=ALEX Siu=-

ASIU UBMail.UBalt.EDU

VOICE: (410)828-0273

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Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 23:28:00 -0500 (EST)
From: "Alexander M. Siu"
To: herbie netvalue.net
Cc: Ford List
Subject: RE:Valve Cover
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Keith,

Make sure two things are righ and you should be able to save some time in
the future.

First, Make sure your valve cover is straight. All the holes should be
straight and flat. if not, straighten them out. Or else, but a new one.
Use the correct troque for each bolt, it will discourage gending the
cover.

Second, make sure you clean your bolts and the holes that they go into.
get rid of all the greese and old and so the screw will stay in there.
I use brake cleaner for this job.

As for Gaskets, I like fel-pro, they are usually pretty good. use the
right gasket glue for your vehicle. Make sure it is sensor safe if you
have an oxygen sensor. Follow the instruction on gluing on the box. Most
people don't believe that but it make a lot of difference.

Using more glue does not mean the cover will not leak. Making sure that
the gasket goes on straight also helps.

If all else fales, like a Chrysler 2.5/2.2 engine, just skip the gasket
and use RTV Blue only. I don't like this way because it makes clean up
hard. a simple gasket always works better, except the Dodge.




-=ALEX Siu=-

ASIU UBMail.UBalt.EDU

VOICE: (410)828-0273

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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 05:00:40 -0500
From: gusinks....

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