------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 137

Today's Topics:

Re: Paint Schemes [Daver ]
Re: '51 GVWR, optional springs, etc [Niqjh aol.com ]
Why did HP ratings drop in '72? [John Strauss
'61 Unibody rear bumper? [John Strauss
brake lights coming on by themselves [John Strauss
Engine casting #'s ["Jason C. Ligo"
thanks [Jeff Hazewinkel
Valve Cover Gaskets [Keith Srb ]
Re: JCWhitney Quality (was Re: 302 t [Jeff Hazewinkel
Fwd: Paint Schemes [KPalmer aol.com ]
Re: brake lights coming on by themse [petunia indy.net ]
Re: Paint Schemes [Barry Price
Re: Valve Cover Gaskets [Ken Payne ]
Re: 302 to 429 ["The Zahns"
Re: Five Star Extra components [TNickolson aol.com ]
Re: '51 GVWR, optional springs, etc [TNickolson aol.com ]
Re: thanks, 47 flathead starting, he [JRFiero aol.com ]
Re: '51 GVWR, optional springs, etc [JRFiero aol.com ]
Re: Why did HP ratings drop in '72? [Daver ]
Re: brake lights coming on by themse [Daver ]
98 Dualie truck [Wang456 aol.com ]
RE: Flathead Starting [RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.co]
Re: Valve Cover Gaskets ["Britt" ]
ADMIN: Security/copyright problems [Ken Payne ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 22:40:28 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Paint Schemes
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Jim Freyburger wrote:
>
> I have a 1967 short bed, custom cab and would like to find some of the
> orginal color paint designs.. If any one has any ideals I would
> appreciate it.
> Jim

Mine was originally sky blue with a white top.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 02:17:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Niqjh aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '51 GVWR, optional springs, etc
Message-ID:

Hi

>From what books,etc Ive got, 10 leafs was standard for the 51 F1. No helpers
optional from Ford, but could be easily added. Ive got a 50 F2 that has
helpers added, and used to have a 51 F2 that also had helpers. The stock
springs are SO stiff, its hard to imagine someone adding MORE springs, but
both the old Ford Ive owned had them. Come to think of it, one of the 67
F100s Ive owned had them too.
My 50 F2 rides like a buckboard, Im hoping radial tires will help a little.

Good Luck

Nick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 08:14:22 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: Why did HP ratings drop in '72?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>John or one of the other guys in the know can correct me if I am wrong
>but I believe the reason the 72 numbers droped of was because ford went
>from rating horse power and tork at the flywheel to rating it at the
>back wheel thus showing the loss through the drive train. I believe the
>federal goverment made all the mfg's do this to standardize the results.
>
Well, that's close. The power is still measured "at the flywheel" but the
rating was changed from "gross" to "net". What this means basically is
that the engine was rated as installed in the car, with all accessories and
exhaust hooked up. The gross ratings were done on an engine stand with no
accessories and open exhaust.

It wouldn't be rated at the rear wheel because then all the various gear
ratios and transmissions would have a different hp rating.

If I remember correctly, this change was a preemptive strike by the auto
manufacturers to slow the horsepower wars that were going on at that time
because they were afraid of government regulation.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 08:14:24 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: '61 Unibody rear bumper?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I would like to know if anyone out there has any idea what (if any)
>the stock rear bumper looked like on a '61 F100 Custom Cab, Unibody
>shortbed. Mine came with a pretty "unique" (read: homemade) one on
>the back that was welded to the frame. If you do have some info for
>me I sure would appreciate it.... and if you had a picture of the
>back end and bumper setup of a stock '61 I would be very interested
>in getting a look at it, too. I can "see" most scanned photo formats
>if you have one to email me. Thanks in advance,
>
Eric,
I've got one on my '61. You want a picture of it? It's chrome (which
really looks out of place as my truck is not a Custom Cab) and is real
skinny top to bottom with a depression in the middle, I guess for the
license plate to show through.
This bumper might be fairly rare as most trucks in those days either
didn't have a bumper or had an iron one that was dealer installed (many
times with the dealer's name/city stamped on them).
I guess I am fairly lucky this way. Both of my trucks have Ford factory
chrome rear bumpers (not step). Ford referred to these bumpers in those
days as "contour bumpers".

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 08:14:26 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: brake lights coming on by themselves
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Anybody had a problem with their brake lights coming on by themselves? I
have a '64 F100 and I can drive it home, park it, check the lights (they're
off) and come back later and they will be on. I have even been walking up
behind the truck and seen the lights come on by themselves. If I then go
and stomp the brake pedal they go out. I have already replaced the brake
light switch that screws into the master cylinder. When the lights are on,
if I unplug either side of the switch, they go out. Anybody seen anything
like this? I am considerering converting to a switch on the brake pedal.

By the way I have the add-on power brake booster (I think it's a Bendix
unit) if that makes any difference.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 10:14:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jason C. Ligo"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Engine casting #'s
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi everybody!

I'm presently rebuilding a 1955 Ford F-250 with a "cost clipper" 6.
I'm trying to find ways in decoding the engine #'s and was wondering what
publications are available in doing this. I'm certain that the engine is not
original and am wondering if I really do have a truck engine installed.
The numbers are from front of engine back...a big C with an F
inside, next set...52 Z 4, next set... sunken in V followed by
EBP-6015-F with a circle of numbers reading 1 9 5 7 (I believe 1957 model
year) at the back of the block. Thanks for your help.
Also, the VIN was tampered with at one point and time. Is there
anything I can verify this truck's true year, such as frame tag, axle tag
etc. was the VIN screwed in the glove box door or riveted. Thanks for all
your help.
Jay

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 09:36:43 -0500
From: Jeff Hazewinkel
To: fordtrucks
Subject: thanks
Message-id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

I want to thank everyone who offered advice on safely starting and
running my 239 flathead V8 in my 47 One Ton. We were able to start it
up this past weekend and run it for a while. It is very smooth and seems
to be in excellent shape. Now the next step.

The radiator hoses became somewhat warm during this short run. Is this
common ?

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 08:05:22 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: Valve Cover Gaskets
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Has anybody got any tips they can share about replacing valve cover gaskets,
particularly, which material makes the best gaskets? I have to replace the
valve cover gaskets on my vehicles every fall. I am sure it has something to do
with the AZ Summers.

Thanks !

>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
>1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
>My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 11:01:28 -0500
From: Jeff Hazewinkel
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: JCWhitney Quality (was Re: 302 to 429)
Message-id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Thanks for the information regarding their products. The wiring harness
price would be very inviting. I am currently looking for prices for a
harness for my 47 one ton and I would be interested in your opinion of
the one you ordered when it arrives.

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 13:55:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: KPalmer aol.com
To: Fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Fwd: Paint Schemes
Message-ID:

I continue to get your mail! Im recieving at least 30 e-mails addressed to
you in one day!! I just wanted you to know!!

Kyle Palmer
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From: f150 koyote.com (Daver)
Reply-to: fordtrucks lofcom.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Date: 97-06-15 23:38:47 EDT

Jim Freyburger wrote:
>
> I have a 1967 short bed, custom cab and would like to find some of the
> orginal color paint designs.. If any one has any ideals I would
> appreciate it.
> Jim

Mine was originally sky blue with a white top.

Molater

Daver


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 17:46:44 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: brake lights coming on by themselves
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Hey John,

> Anybody had a problem with their brake lights coming on by themselves? I
> have a '64 F100 and I can drive it home, park it, check the lights (they're
> off) and come back later and they will be on. I have even been walking up
> behind the truck and seen the lights come on by themselves. If I then go
> and stomp the brake pedal they go out. I have already replaced the brake
> light switch that screws into the master cylinder. When the lights are on,
> if I unplug either side of the switch, they go out. Anybody seen anything
> like this? I am considerering converting to a switch on the brake pedal.

>From your trouble shooting description above, if you move the switch
location to the brake pedal, I think you will be masking the
problem, not repairing it. On a braking system, I would personally
be concerned about doing this "work around".

This sounds like an easy problem, although it may take a little
troubleshooting time to pinpoint. I have gone through my '61's
braking system (both mechanics and electrics) a couple of months
ago to fix my weird acting taillights, and I was surprised how simple
of a system it really is. (My symptoms were different from your's,
nonetheless, what I learned during that process should apply here).

If you changed the switch with a new one that we'll assume is
working (I hate to assume, though) it sounds like the piston in your
master cylinder could be sitcking. As you probably know, the
brake light switch operates on pressure..... if there's a certain
amount of pressure "felt" in the master cylinder, then the switch
will close and complete the brake light circuit and your brake lights
will come on. (This is how my stock '61 is setup, anyhow.)

The fact that you can come home, and a litttle while later the lights
come on seem to indicate to me that pressure is builiding within
your braking system. Now to determine why this pressure is building
up is the million dollar question.

Is the vent cap clean on the master cylinder? Heat from the engine
compartment, when sitting stopped in the driveway, could be heating
the unit up and causing the expasion of the fluid and if the cap's
not venting, then pressure build up. When you then hit the brakes,
you're moving the braking pisiton in the master cylinder, uncovering
the machined orifices, and allowing the system to re-equalize
itself...then the brake lights go off.

I am not "hands-on familiar" with the vacuum assist brakes (mine are
totally manual), but I do know the theory. You'd need some vacuum
from a running engine plus a slightly depressed brake pedal before
the vacuum assist would kick in. These items don't sound like
they were included in the equasion that you described above. Maybe
your brake pedal is hanging up in a slightly depressed state, but the
engine vacuum is not there, so I don't think this scenerio is too
likely.

I'm speculating here, but could the switch you bought be the wrong
one? Maybe a "totally manual" master cylinder switch is calibrated
to activate at a sightly different pressure than one that is used
on a vacuum assist master cylinder and/or your residual wheel
cylinder pressure is hovering at almost the same brake activation
pressure?

I would guess my last buck that this is a brake system problem, and
NOT an electrical one, (provided you can determine that the switch
is the correct one). Why I say this is because before I got my
truck, it's brake wiring was really botched up to "fix" a brake
light problem. Well, to make a long story short, I went
through it all and I found that the wiring was not the problem at
all (well the wiring in the origional harness was fine, the
hodgepodge wiring was another story!), it was the pressure switch
and/or the master cylinder.

If the suggestions in this email aren't the culprits, and if you're
still having these problems, let me know. I can suggest a bunch of
simple tests that you can perform to determine the problem.
But remember, as "my" saying goes.... check the easy stuff first!!
;-)

Just some thoughts. Hope this helps.

Eric
petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 19:12:22 -0700
From: Barry Price
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Paint Schemes
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Jim Freyburger wrote:
>
> I have a 1967 short bed, custom cab and would like to find some of the
> orginal color paint designs.. If any one has any ideals I would
> appreciate it.
> Jim
>
According to my ford restoration book the following colors were
available:

Raven Black
Marlin Blue
Arcadian Blue
Holly Green
Caribbean Turquoise
Springtime Yellow
Chrome Yellow
Rangoon Red
Sahara Beige
Wimbledon White*
Pure White

Note: The two-tone combinations consisted of any standard color plus
Corinthian White (F-100 and F-250 series only).
*The two-tone combinations consisted of Wimbledon White on the roof and
around the cab back panel above the beltline, except with Special White
or Chrome Yellow.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 20:19:26 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Valve Cover Gaskets
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 08:05 AM 6/16/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Has anybody got any tips they can share about replacing valve cover gaskets,
>particularly, which material makes the best gaskets? I have to replace the
>valve cover gaskets on my vehicles every fall. I am sure it has something to do
>with the AZ Summers.
>
>Thanks !
>
>>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
>>1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
>>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
>>My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD!"
>

I tried rubber gaskets on my 390 when I bought new valve covers. Leaked, and
yes, I did install them correctly. Went back to cork/rubber and no leaks.

-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 18:09:06 -0700
From: "The Zahns"
To:
Subject: Re: 302 to 429
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 01:15:33 -0700
From: "C.D. Mutch"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 302 to 429
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

What's with you guys??? What ever happened to good old ingenuity and
Ford parts know-how? Kits aren't always the way to go.
Sure in some cases they might seem to be the easy way out... but in most
cases, kits require some form of un-anticipated modification which was
conveniently left out of the advertisement from which you purchased the
kit.
Assuming you're using the '79 frame (non 4X4) for your '56, Go with
stock Ford parts. The 460 (same block as the 429) C-6 combination was a
factory option in the ford 1/2 tons in '79. To make things simple... all
you need are the factory frame mounts, motor mounts, tranny crossmember
and mount, and driveshaft and wham bam thankya ma'am... your powertrain
is installed in your frame. Your local Ford parts dealer as well as any
respectable wrecker should be able to supply you with these parts. It's
up to you to find the best deals. Besides fabricating your own goodies,
this is what roddin' and restorin' is about. Seek and ye shall find.
Best of luck.

C.D. Mutch
--
Friends may come and go, but enemies accumulate.

- ----------------------------

I put a 429 in my F350 years ago. I started with a 300-6. It was easier
than I thought if you don't want to buy a kit. Change your towers to 300-6
or 390 v-8 type. then get a pair of 390 motor mounts. Line up the top
hole with the top hole on a 429 motor mount and drill another hole where
the bottom hole is on the 429 mount into the 390 mounts. attach these new
mounts on the engine and lower it into the hole. they lined up perfectely
for me. The transmission mount for my floor shift 4 speed fit the c6
perfectely too. I had to shorten the drive shaft. and or course new
exaust system.

Good Luck,
Fred Z.
71 F350
89 E350


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 21:41:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: TNickolson aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Five Star Extra components
Message-ID:

We have talked before aboutthis subject before. I think I am almost finished
on my 1952 Five Star Extra Pick up.
1. Both doors had keyed lock, the standard had only one lock on the passenger
side.
2. The glove box door did have a keyed lock.
3. The "Extras" had a stainless steel divider bar between the vent window and
roll up window and a stainless steel trim peice for the wind sheild.
4. The doors were as you described.
This is the first time that I have heard of special horns, if you get any
additional information about the horns, let me know.
5. The V8 was standard and had a larger clutch, 11 inch as opposed to 10
inch, I am not sure about this one, only what I have been told.

Let me know if you find any literature on this subject. Every time I think I
am finished I find something else I have to find.

Thanks

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 21:55:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: TNickolson aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '51 GVWR, optional springs, etc
Message-ID:

I don't know what "leaf helper" springs are but my 52 has a total of 10 leaf
springs in the rear and 9 in the front. The front are shorter and more narrow
than the rear.

Does that help?

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 21:58:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: thanks, 47 flathead starting, heat
Message-ID:

In a message dated 97-06-16 11:25:57 EDT, you write:


running my 239 flathead V8 in my 47 One Ton. We were able to start it
up this past weekend and run it for a while. It is very smooth and seems
to be in excellent shape. Now the next step.

The radiator hoses became somewhat warm during this short run. Is this
common ?
>>
Flatheads put out an amazing amount of heat, partially because they have
something like 8' of exhaust port in the block. Does a '47 have the upper
hose outlet in the middle of the head, or in the front? I know there were
significant changes in 48, just can't remember which ones. Anyway, the
middle of the block and head (front to back 'middle') is an area of
concentrated heat, because you have the middle cylinders' siamesed exhaust
ports running from just under the hose outlet to the outside of the block.
I'd guess hoses becoming somewhat warm during a short run is indeed common.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 21:58:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '51 GVWR, optional springs, etc
Message-ID:

In a message dated 97-06-16 03:43:42 EDT, you write:


helpers
optional from Ford, >>
I'm gradually building a library, so I'm real interested in what books or
literature you have that speak of options and stock springs etc. Re adding
helpers, I remember seeing add-on helpers before, but the ones on my truck
bump up against these neat cast iron stops on the frame that look like they
grew there. Wonder if someone could have swapped them from a bigger truck?
Thanks for the response. I'll figure this thing out yet.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 22:37:07 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Why did HP ratings drop in '72?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> >John or one of the other guys in the know can correct me if I am wrong
> >but I believe the reason the 72 numbers droped of was because ford went
> >from rating horse power and tork at the flywheel to rating it at the
> >back wheel thus showing the loss through the drive train. I believe the
> >federal goverment made all the mfg's do this to standardize the results.
> >
> Well, that's close. The power is still measured "at the flywheel" but the
> rating was changed from "gross" to "net". What this means basically is
> that the engine was rated as installed in the car, with all accessories and
> exhaust hooked up. The gross ratings were done on an engine stand with no
> accessories and open exhaust.
>
> It wouldn't be rated at the rear wheel because then all the various gear
> ratios and transmissions would have a different hp rating.

I think I got that from some Whiny salesman. I Knew They had changed
about that piriod and everyone said it was EPA stuff and I knew better.
Oh well thanks.

Molater

Daver
> If I remember correctly, this change was a preemptive strike by the auto
> manufacturers to slow the horsepower wars that were going on at that time
> because they were afraid of government regulation.
>
> John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 22:41:19 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: brake lights coming on by themselves
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> Anybody had a problem with their brake lights coming on by themselves? I
> have a '64 F100 and I can drive it home, park it, check the lights (they're
> off) and come back later and they will be on. I have even been walking up
> behind the truck and seen the lights come on by themselves. If I then go
> and stomp the brake pedal they go out. I have already replaced the brake
> light switch that screws into the master cylinder. When the lights are on,
> if I unplug either side of the switch, they go out. Anybody seen anything
> like this? I am considerering converting to a switch on the brake pedal.
>
> By the way I have the add-on power brake booster (I think it's a Bendix
> unit) if that makes any difference.
>
> John

Actually I had the same problem. It turned out the spring on the break
pedal (over a piriod of time had lost tension and when I added my power
unit it needed help so I added a spring that attached from the pedal to
the dash.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 00:38:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Wang456 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 98 Dualie truck
Message-ID:

Hi everyone,

does anyone has any information, or where can I get some information on the
98 Ford dualies? as I heard they going to change the wheel to 19.5" 8 lug for
the Super-duty, I know Accuride makes the wheel, any sugestions, besides
contact Accuride, as I already did that>


Thanks.

Mikw Wang

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 97 08:33:34 -0400
From: RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: RE: Flathead Starting
Message-Id:

Item Subject: Text Item
Jeff,

I ran into a simular problem, My 54 F100 has a cost clipper 6, it
had been sitting in a barn for 20 years. After removing the plugs
and changing the oil, it would turn over fine but, with the plugs
in would sound as if something was binding. To make a long story
short, I found that mice had invaded the bell housing. They had
almost filled it with seat cushion. Happy to annouce the motor runs
perfect and the mice are gone.

Rich

PS: There is no resistor going to the coil and a direct connection
to a 6 volt battery is fine.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 09:44:13
From: "Britt"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Valve Cover Gaskets
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> Has anybody got any tips they can share about replacing valve
> cover gaskets, particularly, which material makes the best
> gaskets? I have to replace the valve cover gaskets on my
> vehicles every fall. I am sure it has something to do with the
> AZ Summers.

Are you using cork of neoprene based gaskets? On engines with
hydraulic lifters (where I have little reason to remove the covers often) I
favor premium cork based gaskets, sealed on both sides with a light coat of
Permatex Aviation Hi-Tack gasket sealer. Be sure and scrape all old
gasket residue off, then wipe the sealing surfaces down with a drying
solvent such laquer thinner, acetone or denatured alcohol - this is
neccessary to remove all of the oil film and allow the Hi-Tack to adhere
properly. Let the Hi-Tack sit about 5 min. before assembly and don't
overtorque the bolts. Do however go back and snug them up a bit the next day as
these gaskets do compress. Works here in Florida!

Page Britt
1973 Ford F100 Ranger XLT 390FE
1970 Ford Country Sedan 351W
1987 Suzuki Samurai 1.3 L

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 20:57:46 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks ....


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