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Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 135

Today's Topics:

Re: considering 12 volt conversion [JRFiero aol.com ]
Re: intro/Parting out 69 F-250. [Andy Aydelott ]
Re: considering 12 volt conversion [sdelanty sonoma.net ]
Slow cranking [flat-head juno.com ]
delete me [dherzog fv.stlcc.cc.mo.us (David He]
Engine casting #'s ["Jason C. Ligo"
Re: Engine casting #'s ["Jim" ]
Re: intro/Parting out 69 F-250. [James Oxley ]
Re: intro/Parting out 69 F-250. [James Oxley ]
(Fwd) Wanted: 48-53 Flathead V8 [petunia indy.net ]

Administrivia:

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Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request lofcom.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 22:08:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: considering 12 volt conversion
Message-ID:

In a message dated 97-06-10 11:24:55 EDT, you write:

If I convert to 12 volt, should I keep the gauges 6 volt and install
protection ? Anything else that should stay 6 volt ?
>>

Jeff-
I suppose if my memory wasn't fading so, I'd remember what truck you're
talking about, but, since I don't -
If you have the luxury of having 12V duplicates of your gauges hanging
around, go ahead and change them. Otherwise, get some step down resistors,
or whatever they're called. Several wiring shops sell them. The 6V starter
will crank over quite nicely on 12V, and the horns will really make people
pay attention. You can have the generator converted, find a 12V generator,
or adapt an alternator. For everyday use, but not shows, an alternator will
do a better job of keeping the battery up. The coil needs changing, all the
bulbs, a converter for the radio (is your truck positive ground?), heater
motor replacement, switch the ammeter leads if you're changing from positive
to negative ground ... I'm sure I left some things out. Talk to some of the
wiring shops - Rhode Island Wiring, for one.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 22:54:45 -0700
From: Andy Aydelott
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: intro/Parting out 69 F-250.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

James Oxley wrote:
>
> Howdy.
>
> My name is Jim (OX) and I have a 78 Bronco and 69 F-250. The Bronco
> has a 4 " lift, 35's, detroit and lockright, headers, duals, Warn
> XD9000i, and 351M with 4spd. I also have a 69 F-250, 360, 3 spd on col
> with 57K orig miles. The body is pretty well shot, except for the bed.
> The interior is in very good shape. I am selling this either whole or in
> parts. I also have 69 truck factory shop manuals in almost brand new
> condition.
>
> I was wondering how close the F-100 and F-250 were in the 69 vintage??
>
> OX
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

James,

I would be interested in your steering box possibly, if you decide to part it out. I
have a 1967 F250 4x4 stripped down to the frame that I am fixing up. I just painted the
frame last Friday. I am looking to either find another steering box in good shape or
have mine rebuilt.
Would be interested if anyone out in Ford land knows of a good place to get steering
boxes rebuilt.
James, you can email me at andya npl.com or just contact me through lofcom.

Thanks

Andy

1967 F250 4x4
1972 F100

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 23:14:34 -0700
From: sdelanty sonoma.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: considering 12 volt conversion
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I know this issue is a common one, but I would like to open up the
>debate to get some help as I decide if I want to convert my truck to a
>12 volt system. My objective in the restoration is to recreate a good
>looking, well running vehicle that I can drive around town and take to
>an occasional show. I would like to keep things as original as
>ecomonically possible, but also practical.
>
>If I convert to 12 volt, should I keep the gauges 6 volt and install
>protection ? Anything else that should stay 6 volt ?
>
>I look forward to your opinions.


I've converted stuff from 6v to 12v a few times, especially old VW's.

Obviously the battery, alternator (or gen if You need stock appearing, but
an alternator is way better..) and regulator, ign coil, and light bulbs get
changed to 12v.

I'll asume that You don't have an electric choke, but if You do You'll
either need to change the element to 12v or regulate down to 6v to keep it
happy.

The 6v starter motor is usually just fine on 12v.
I've run the 6v bosch/VW starters on 12v for years, quite often with rather
large high compression motors and never burned one up. Just don't crank it
for more than 30 seconds or so without letting it cool for several minutes.
The 6v starter on 12v will really spin the motor over fast, so if Your motor
is in any state of decent tune it shouldn't take much cranking to get it
going anyway.

The best way to deal with 6v gauges is to use a 3 terminal regulator like a
7806 or similar to get 6 volts for the gauges. The regulator and 2 small
capacitors required for it should set You back about $4.
Ask if You want more info on this... It's very simple.

Windshield wipers... Are Yours electric or vacuum operated?
If vacuum then no sweat. If electric then You will need to either change
the motor to 12v (if possible) or regulate down to 6v to run them.

Since the wiper motor draws quite a little current, the 7806 regulator isn't
adequate. Someone suggested using volt-a-drop resistor, but since V=I/R the
output voltage varies with current draw. These things work O.K for devices
that draw a constant current, but for things like wiper motors where the
current can vary a *lot* depending on how wet the glass is, wiper blade
condition, whether the wipers are on high speed or low, phase of the moon,
etc., the voltage the motor sees can vary widely. If You have 2-speed wipers
You may find the motor runs about the same speed on either hi or lo setting
because they end up getting less voltage on the high setting. )-:
Also being resistive and since dissipated power is equal to the voltage
dropped times the current drawn, resistive type voltage reducers can get
very hot under high loads and need to be mounted where this isn't a problem.

My favorite solution was to build a simple pulse width modulated regulator
which doesn't waste nearly as much energy as a volt-a-drop and runs very
much cooler.
While I'm at it I usually add circuitry so I can make them "intermittant"
style wipers, with a little pot on the dash to control how often they wipe. (-:
If You have single speed electric wipers You can also make them 2 speed by
arranging the regulator to provide differet voltage at the flip of a switch.
I liked 5 volts for low speed and 8-9 volts for high speed on VW wipers...

It's not too difficult to build if You or a friend are somewhat
electronially inclined...


The wiring on 6v cars is usually heavier gauge than 12v cars because of the
higher currents that 6v stuff draws, so that's an advantage.

I think a 12v conversion is a very good thing, cause You can use headlights
that actually light up something down the road and You can have a decent
stereo...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty (sdelanty sonoma.net)

1971 F100, FE390, T-18 4-speed shortbox.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 07:11:15 -0600
From: flat-head juno.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Cc: jhazewinkel EXODUS.VALPO.EDU
Subject: Slow cranking
Message-ID:

Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 13:20:19 -0500
From: Jeff Hazewinkel
To: fordtrucks
Subject: flathead starting questions
Message-id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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In my quest to start my 239 flathead V8 I have again ran across a couple
of questions. We were able to get the motor to turn over nicely without
the plugs in, but when the plugs were put back the compression was a
real strain on the starter and the engine would barely turn. I am going
to have the starter rebuilt, does this sound reasonable?
Also, since I have not installed a new wiring harness yet, is it safe to
supply the coil with 6 volts from the battery without a resister
inline? One source told me that I may burn up the points, the other
said it is fine to do that with this engine.

Jeff

ps - the battery is new and is working fine.


Jeff,
I have a '49 F-3 that only has 38,000 ACTUAL miles on the flathead 8. I'm
running the original 6volt POSITIVE ground system and the slow sounding
starter you hear is most likely quite normal. Being a computer geek and
not a real mechanic, I was worried at first and sought many opinions on
the situation. According to Mechanics older than the truck, that's how a
6volt sounds. I got rid of the points and condensor with an electronic
module that sparks at near 0 rpm and it also sparks hotter somy startups
are as quick as could be. Mine still sounds slow to me b.t.w.
The schematics I have don't show a resistor in the system
Mike Wright


---The two Major items to
---come out of Berkeley are
---UNIX and LSD.
---This is probably not a coincidence.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 13:51:27 -0500
From: dherzog fv.stlcc.cc.mo.us (David Herzog)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: delete me
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Please delete me from your system....while I enjoy some of the messages, it
has become overwhelming. Thanks!

Dave
^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
DAVID L. HERZOG Ph.D.,PROFESSOR OF BUSINESS & MANAGEMENT
ST. LOUIS COMMUNITY COLLEGE AT FLORISSANT VALLEY
DIVISION OF BUSINESS AND HUMAN SERVICES
3400 PERSHALL RD.
ST. LOUIS, MO 63615
(314) 595-2339
^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 15:42:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jason C. Ligo"
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Engine casting #'s
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi everybody!

I'm presently rebuilding a 1955 Ford F-250 with a "cost clipper" 6.
I'm trying to find ways in decoding the engine #'s and was wondering what
publications are available in doing this. I'm certain that the engine is not
original and am wondering if I really do have a truck engine installed.
The numbers are from front of engine back...a big C with an F
inside, next set...52 Z 4, next set... sunken in V followed by
EBP-6015-F with a circle of numbers reading 1 9 5 7 (I believe 1957 model
year) at the back of the block. Thanks for your help.
Also, the VIN was tampered with at one point and time. Is there
anything I can verify this truck's true year, such as frame tag, axle tag
etc. was the VIN screwed in the glove box door or riveted. Thanks for all
your help.
Jay

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 17:24:23 -0700
From: "Jim"
To:
Subject: Re: Engine casting #'s
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I think there was an earlier post that said it was stamped
in the frame, on the drivers side. Sorry I'm no help on
engine ID but I hope the VIN stamp helps!
Later!

----------
> From: Jason C. Ligo
> To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
> Subject: Engine casting #'s
> Date: Wednesday, June 11, 1997 12:42 PM
>
> Hi everybody!
>
> I'm presently rebuilding a 1955 Ford F-250
with a "cost clipper" 6.
> I'm trying to find ways in decoding the engine #'s and was
wondering what
> publications are available in doing this. I'm certain that
the engine is not
> original and am wondering if I really do have a truck
engine installed.
> The numbers are from front of engine back...a
big C with an F
> inside, next set...52 Z 4, next set... sunken in
V followed by
> EBP-6015-F with a circle of numbers reading 1 9 5 7 (I
believe 1957 model
> year) at the back of the block. Thanks for your help.
> Also, the VIN was tampered with at one point
and time. Is there
> anything I can verify this truck's true year, such as
frame tag, axle tag
> etc. was the VIN screwed in the glove box door or riveted.
Thanks for all
> your help.
> Jay
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
_______
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 10:06:49 -0700
From: James Oxley
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: intro/Parting out 69 F-250.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Andy Aydelott wrote:

> James,
>
> I would be interested in your steering box possibly, if you decide to part it out. I
> have a 1967 F250 4x4 stripped down to the frame that I am fixing up. I just painted the
> frame last Friday. I am looking to either find another steering box in good shape or
> have mine rebuilt.

Mine is 2WD, don't know if that matters. I'm trying to trade the whole
truck for body parts for my Bronco. You can have the whole truck for
300$, becasue thats what I need for the body parts. Steering is manual,
BTW.

OX


> Would be interested if anyone out in Ford land knows of a good place to get steering
> boxes rebuilt.
> James, you can email me at andya npl.com or just contact me through lofcom.
>
> Thanks
>
> Andy
>
> 1967 F250 4x4
> 1972 F100
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 10:22:17 -0700
From: James Oxley
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: intro/Parting out 69 F-250.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Sorry about sending last message to list

OX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 17:31:09 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: (Fwd) Wanted: 48-53 Flathead V8
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Wanted:

*About* '48 to '53 Flathead V8 motor
tranny
associated parts

Hopefully someone on the list has upgraded their vehicle's
engine/drivetrain and now they need to find a happy home for the old
iron. I not looking to spend a fortune on the item(s) but let me
know if you can help me out.

I live in south/central Indiana. I'm willing to travel within
reason, but obviously the closer the better for me.

Please take note to email me directly at the addresses below, and not
the entire list.

Thanks in advance,
Eric

petunia ....


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