------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 134

Today's Topics:

Re: Vacuum Advance Reply ["Wagger" ]
65 F-100 pic [Randall Colgan
Stock Advance Curve [Mike Schwall ]
Lift kit and Exhaust Installation - [Mike Schwall ]
RE: F-100 Gas Tanks [DC Beatty
RE: C6 problem? [DC Beatty
Re: Re: Low oil pressure ["Britt" ]
Need: Gear Shift Lever Socket [QNKY92A prodigy.com ( JARED CASCA]
flathead starting questions [Jeff Hazewinkel
Re: F-100 Gas Tanks [petunia indy.net ]
Re: Stock Advance Curve [Bj2797 aol.com ]
262 straight six 4sale [Christopher Rogers
Re: flathead starting questions [TNickolson aol.com ]
Re: flathead starting questions/Carl [JRFiero aol.com ]
Re: Stock Advance Curve [Mike Schwall ]
considering 12 volt conversion [Jeff Hazewinkel
Re: considering 12 volt conversion [Mike Young ]
engine manual [Erickemmler
engine manual -Reply [BARRY PRICE

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 13:08:00 -0600
From: "Wagger"
To:
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance Reply
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Wade,
I have run into this problem before. Obviously there was way too much
vacuum, where the line was. I think the carb was changed somewhere along
the line. We ran into this on a 64 F-100 223-6. The rebuilt carb had a
place in the casting for the vacuum nipple (brass straw looking thing), but
it was never drilled out.You could see a small depression in the casting
where it was supposed to be.We (carefully) drilled it out and installed the
nipple into the slightly undersize hole. Clean the baseplate and look for
it.Good Luck,
Charlie Sr.
----------
> From: Wade Keller
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Vacuum Advance
> Date: Sunday, June 08, 1997 8:14 AM
>
> I recently purchased a 1978 Ford Ranger with a rebuilt 302 engine and
> automatic transmission. I noticed a pop in the exhaust and figured the
> timing was out of adjustment. When I disconnected the vacuum advance to
> check the timing, the pop went away. I followed the vacuum advance line
> back to the source and found that it was hooked directly to manifold
> vacuum.
>
> Since the vacuum advance is normally connected to venturi vacuum, I
figured
> that the vacuum lines had been connected incorrectly, but there is no
> connection on the carburetor to connect a vacuum advance line.
>
> This truck came factory with an oil bath air cleaner, no EGR vavle, or
> catlytic converter. Is it possible that the carburetor has been swapped
or
> is there another way to connect the vacuum advance. I tried using a spark
> delay valve, but now I have no timing advance at all and the engine is
> gutless.
>
> I don't have a clue on this since this truck doesn't seem to match any
> manual that I can find. I know that the truck is original since I bought
it
> from my parents and they bought it brand new. The only thing that they
did
> to it is put in a long block and a rebuilt transmission.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 14:19:51 -0600
From: Randall Colgan
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 65 F-100 pic
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Can anyone supply me with a jpg or gif file of a F-100 Custom cab
(preferably dark blue in color)? I'd like to add it to my collection of
photos for my home page (in the works). Any help would be most appreciated.

PS: Other pictures I'm looking for are 66 mustang convertable, 74 Torino, 75
Econoline stubby van, 66 Merc Montclair.

Thanks,
================
Randall Colgan
Civil Engineering
University of Alberta
Edmonton, Alberta
'52 Ford F-1 Truck
================

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 19:51:04 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Stock Advance Curve
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Does anyone happen to know the stock advance curve for a '78 F150 302 with
electronic ignition? I would like to know the peak RPM for max. advance -
and the total advance.

Thanks,

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 19:55:04 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Lift kit and Exhaust Installation - Finished
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Well, I finally finished the exhaust installation. Now I have a lifted
truck with brand new headers, mufflers and pipe. Sounds great, and runs a
lot better than before. While I was at it, I replaced the cheap Fram air
filter with a brand new K&N filter.

When I get my pictures back, I'll post them on my web site. Should be a
few days. Web page address is in the sig.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
Ford Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes/fordarea.htm

------------------------------

Date: 08 Jun 97 22:05:35 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: F-100 Gas Tanks
Message-ID:

I'm pretty sure JC Whitney sells plastic tanks.

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Sent: Friday, June 06, 1997 4:48 PM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: F-100 Gas Tanks

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Date: Fri, 06 Jun 1997 18:46:08 -0700
From: Peter Bondra
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Subject: F-100 Gas Tanks
References:
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Reply-To: fordtrucks lofcom.com

I own a 55 panel and would like to buy a plastic gas tank. The only
company I know of, Tanks, Inc. of Minnesota, doesn't make a Panel gas
tank.
I believe the pickup tank mounts under the running board. The panel
tank mounts inside of the frame rail, by the driveshaft.
Can I mount easily a pickup style tank under the running board?
If I had a tank here, it would be easy to just look at it; however, I
only have 2 panel tanks, so this doesn't help.
Does anyone know of another source of plastic gas tanks that makes a
panel version?
I don't need a plastic tank; I just thought it might be easier to buy
one than clean up my existing tank(s).
Thanks, Paul


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------------------------------

Date: 08 Jun 97 22:26:55 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: C6 problem?
Message-ID:

Drew,

I spoke to a friend of mine who knows this stuff and he said there is probably
crap in the fluid governor making it hang up. You might try a fluid change.

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

----------
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Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 1997 8:35 PM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: C6 problem?

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To:
Subject: C6 problem?
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 21:28:36 -0400
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Reply-To: fordtrucks lofcom.com

I am also having a problem with my C6. I have a 65 F100 with 460 & C6. When
I slow for a stop sign the tranny does not shift down to low until you come
to a complete stop. and then it does it with a loud thump( at least its
loud in the cab) If anybody has any thoughts on this please respond thanks
, Drew Johnson


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 08:35:44
From: "Britt"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Low oil pressure
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> I'm presently using 10W40 year-round. Who makes a good, i.e.
> accurate, gauge?
> Kevin

Stewart Warner, VDO, and Sun are all good. NAPA also sells accurate,
reliable gauges (in fact they might even be made by SW).

I don't know where you live (what the climate is) but at that mileage
it wouldn't hurt to switch to either a 20W-50 or straight SAE 30 for use
when the temp is over 40 degrees.

Page Britt
1973 Ford F100 Ranger XLT 390FE
1970 Ford Country Sedan 351W
1987 Suzuki Samurai 1.3 L

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 13:17:47, -0500
From: QNKY92A prodigy.com ( JARED CASCADDEN)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Need: Gear Shift Lever Socket
Message-Id:

Hi,

A friend of ours, who is not on line, is having a time of it trying
to get hold of a Gear Shift Lever Socket for his '66 F100. He has
one on order, but it has been several months with no word. It
appears that it was the same for '61-'66. If anyone can help,
please email us at

QNKY92A prodigy.com


Thanks, Jared & Jeannine
1957 F100 Big window styleside
soon to have a 1957 F100 flairside (then we can be rid of the C word
vehicle that we have)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 13:20:19 -0500
From: Jeff Hazewinkel
To: fordtrucks
Subject: flathead starting questions
Message-id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

In my quest to start my 239 flathead V8 I have again ran across a couple
of questions. We were able to get the motor to turn over nicely without
the plugs in, but when the plugs were put back the compression was a
real strain on the starter and the engine would barely turn. I am going
to have the starter rebuilt, does this sound reasonable?
Also, since I have not installed a new wiring harness yet, is it safe to
supply the coil with 6 volts from the battery without a resister
inline? One source told me that I may burn up the points, the other
said it is fine to do that with this engine.

Jeff

ps - the battery is new and is working fine.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 17:32:08 +0000
From: petunia indy.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: F-100 Gas Tanks
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Hey Everyone in Cyber-truckland,

> From: Peter Bondra
> I own a 55 panel and would like to buy a plastic gas tank. The only
> company I know of, Tanks, Inc. of Minnesota, doesn't make a Panel gas
> tank.
> I believe the pickup tank mounts under the running board. The panel
> tank mounts inside of the frame rail, by the driveshaft.
> Can I mount easily a pickup style tank under the running board?
> If I had a tank here, it would be easy to just look at it; however, I
> only have 2 panel tanks, so this doesn't help.

Peter,
I'm not sure exactly what you're asking here, or if your post is in
reference to the plastic gas tank post I put up awhile back regarding
the newer Ford Ranger tanks. I am going with the assumption that
when you say " under the running boards" you are describing the area
outside the frame rails.

I just climbed out from my wife's 1993 Ranger Extended cab. The
plastic tank is mounted on the drivers side INSIDE the frame. As I
am interested in using this type of plastic tank on my '61 I also
climbed under it and I took some measurements... (This will
hopefully answer Keith's question too so he can compare measurements
to his '66).

1993 Ranger extended cab plastic gas tank:
Approx. 12" wide and 64" long (the "tallness" measurement is
difficult as the tank is stepped.)
Distance between frame rails on this truck = 28"
It is held in place by two metal straps that wrap around the tank and
secure to the one frame rail and some reinforcements on the bottom
side of the bed.

For comparisons my '61 F100 unibody's frame rails = 30"

It still appears that the newer Ranger tank will tuck up nicely in
my old truck in much the same way as it is installed on the newer
Ranger, although, the placement of this tank will make accessing one
side of the emergency brake tough, since it would be covered. That
shouldn't be too much of a problem, since I don't need to access the
e-brake very often.

> Does anyone know of another source of plastic gas tanks that makes a
> panel version?
> I don't need a plastic tank; I just thought it might be easier to buy
> one than clean up my existing tank(s).

I do not know how the setups are with the panel versions, but it
seems to me that the space between the frame and driveshaft should be
identical to the setups I have observed in both my trucks. You
probably could go with the same swap, if you wanted.

Hope this helps,

(Congrats on the little boy, Ken)

Eric

petunia indy.net
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
==================================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em Up Truck
w/'59 292 ci Y-Block
==================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 19:20:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bj2797 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Stock Advance Curve
Message-ID:

Does it have an automatic or manual transmision?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 20:28:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Christopher Rogers
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 262 straight six 4sale
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

At one time I thought I had sold this engine, but I guess not. The engine
ran when it was pulled, but it does need rebuilding. It was made from
61-64 making it fairly rare, and was pulled from a 64 F100. I also have a
3 spd manual trans from same truck. Would like to get rid of both.

Engine...$125
Trans....$75

Both for $150

Or best offer.

Let me know
Chris
carogers mtu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 21:17:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: TNickolson aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: flathead starting questions
Message-ID:

I suggest you pull the heads and make sure the valves are operating properly
before you try to start the engine. The compression on an old flat head was
not that high. It still may mean you have a bad starter but I would make sure
the valves are opening and closing when they should. I would put the balast
back in before you start the engine, if your wiring is original and in poor
condition you could burn out more than you expect and cause more work and
cost as you want at this time of rebuilding. The balast are easly found. Are
you converting to 12 volt? I suggest you do if you are not restoring it to
exact original.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 21:48:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: flathead starting questions/Carlisle/Dynamatic Fan Drive
Message-ID:

In a message dated 97-06-09 14:55:24 EDT, you write:


In my quest to start my 239 flathead V8 I have again ran across a couple
of questions. We were able to get the motor to turn over nicely without
the plugs in, but when the plugs were put back the compression was a
real strain on the starter and the engine would barely turn. I am going
to have the starter rebuilt, does this sound reasonable?
Also, since I have not installed a new wiring harness yet, is it safe to
supply the coil with 6 volts from the battery without a resister
inline? One source told me that I may burn up the points, the other
said it is fine to do that with this engine.

Jeff >>

Jeff -
Crank it on 12V, and don't worry about the points. A. They're cheap. B.
They won't burn up for some time.
As to whether the truck normally runs a resistor, I never heard of it
before last Friday when I bought the coolest flathead accessory I've seen
(more later). The instructions for this gizmo say to wire it 'to bottom
terminal of the resistor on the circuit breaker assembly.' HOWEVER! The
instructions are for "Engine Model No 59A Ford and Mercury Passenger Cars and
Light Trucks." Ford truck engines from 49 on (?) are 8BAs, Mercuries are
CM(?) - (Somebody help me here). So, maybe just the cars had resistors.
Sorry, I haven't run out to check my truck. The circuit breaker is
somewhere up under the dash. I know trucks have this circuit breaker, I just
don't know if they have a resisior included.
Anyway - when people convert their trucks to 12V, they leave the 6V
starter as is. Just don't crank it too long, and let it cool between
attempts. I've heard crank max 15 seconds, cool 20 seconds. Having new
bushings/bearings in the starter is a good idea, but I'd jump it off 12V
first. If it fires, disconnect the 12V source so you don't confuse the
generator and shorten the point life.
About the cool flathead accessory - Its a 'Dynamatic Fan Drive and
Thermostat Assembly' - a magnetic cooling fan 'clutch!' A genuine Ford
article, unopened box and all, with truck wide pulley. It came bolted to a
piece of wood securely in its little cardboard box, with wire, relays,
thermostat and all instructions. I'd never seen or heard of it before. The
seller claims to have 100 of them, recently purchased from a Ford dealer. He
asks $100 each, but will dicker (a little). Serious inquiries let me know.
I bought mine at the Carlisle (PA) Ford Nationals last Friday. The All
Truck Nationals are coming up June 20th -22nd. Search Carlisle Productions
on the web. I got great stuff - used steering column and gearbox, $20; drag
link with Pitman arm attached, $0.50; matching steering knuckle with round!
ball end (not worn to egg shape), $0.50, literature, a Flathead hotrod book,
on and on. Could have had a complete running flathead if I had a pocket full
of $450.00. I hope he brings it back to the Truck meet, 'cause I'll be ready
for him.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 22:10:28 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Stock Advance Curve
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 07:20 PM 6/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Does it have an automatic or manual transmision?

manual transmission

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intix.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:25:05 -0500
From: Jeff Hazewinkel
To: fordtrucks
Subject: considering 12 volt conversion
Message-id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

I know this issue is a common one, but I would like to open up the
debate to get some help as I decide if I want to convert my truck to a
12 volt system. My objective in the restoration is to recreate a good
looking, well running vehicle that I can drive around town and take to
an occasional show. I would like to keep things as original as
ecomonically possible, but also practical.

If I convert to 12 volt, should I keep the gauges 6 volt and install
protection ? Anything else that should stay 6 volt ?

I look forward to your opinions.

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 11:25:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Young
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: considering 12 volt conversion
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

You can order a volt-a-drop from JC Whitney for about ten bucks. This
little ceramic device allows you to mix your volts in you vehicle. Like a
12 volt radio and head lights/tail lights and ignition/charging system and
still allow you to use the 6 volt heater fan and 6 volt gauges. It requires
some re-wiring but it's pretty basic. I used one of these on my 53 F100 for
about 8 years with no trouble. My dad has been using the same thing on his
41 Ford Convertible for about 11 years without trouble. With a 12 volt
generator and a battery under the floor it will 'look' very stock while
giving you things like halogen headlights and a nice stereo and modern
ignition parts. Good luck.
Mike Young
53 F100
51 Ford Coupe
94 Ranger

At 10:25 AM 6/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I know this issue is a common one, but I would like to open up the
>debate to get some help as I decide if I want to convert my truck to a
>12 volt system. My objective in the restoration is to recreate a good
>looking, well running vehicle that I can drive around town and take to
>an occasional show. I would like to keep things as original as
>ecomonically possible, but also practical.
>
>If I convert to 12 volt, should I keep the gauges 6 volt and install
>protection ? Anything else that should stay 6 volt ?
>
>I look forward to your opinions.
>
>Jeff
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------....


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