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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 127

Today's Topics:

Re: Ok here's my theroy.... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: gauges, P.S. ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
gauges [John Strauss
gauges [billjhs ]
Re: gauges ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: gauges ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: gauges [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: gauges ["Terry R Sherman"
Re: disc brake problems... fixed (so [rick adc.com (Rick Larson) ]
Re: Ford rears ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
thanks [DC Beatty
Re: Reverse/Neutral switch ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 48 F1 F1 F1 F1 Overheating [JRFiero aol.com ]
Re: Ford rears [mcat epix.net ]
Re: Ford rears ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 56 Front Grill Wanted [JSanc82344 aol.com ]
Re: 1967 330 engine and 4spd trans [OldTrux aol.com ]
Re: Ok here's my theroy.... [Daver ]
Re: thanks [Ken Payne ]
Re: Ford rears [Daver ]

Administrivia:

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Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 08:19:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 07:45:18 -0500
> From: Daver
> Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....

> Sportsman class, if memory serves me correctly, allows NOS and also
> allows additives in the fuel and the cars you are talkinig about I
> assume is the NHRA sportsman class. Let me explane how this works.

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I was talking about circle
dirt track like Oak Shade or Toledo. I don't have first hand
informantion or experience, this was told to me by one who is
currently campaigning one.

I can see how you can get a rich engine to run cooler but what about
preignition or spark knock?

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 08:51:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: gauges, P.S.
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 07:58:56 -0500
> From: Daver
> Subject: Re: gauges, P.S.

> If I am not mistaken 6v systems run higher amperage so will simple
> deviding the voltage w/o raising amps lead to an accurate reading on
> the gauges?

What makes things work with electricity is actually the result of
both called "Wattage". More voltage CAN push more amperage through
a given resistance (load) to ground which produces more heat etc. but
this effect can be controlled with resistance. A rough example might
be a 6v motor uses a certain size wire and so many wraps and a 12v
motor uses half the diameter wire size and twice as many wraps to do
the same job which requires the same "Wattage" regardless. Since
watts(W) = volts(E) * amps(I) and E = IR(resistance) if you increase
the resistance the amperage will fall unless you increase the voltage
since I = E/R.

The bottom line is that the ballast resistor must be capable of
handling the amperage the load will impose on it regardless of
voltage, in this case the guages which I speculate will draw
considerably less than the ignition system it was designed for.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 07:53:46 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: gauges
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Does anyone know a good way to use 6v gauges on a 12v system.

I have NO experience with this but couldn't you hook 2 of the gauges in series?


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 09:27:05 -0400
From: billjhs
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: gauges
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi, I have seen many responses to the gauge question but what values
would be suited for the 12v to 6v conversion for the gauges???

billjhs bellatlantic.net
1951 F-1

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 10:06:48 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: gauges
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 07:53:46 -0500
> From: John Strauss
> Subject: gauges

> >Does anyone know a good way to use 6v gauges on a 12v system.
>
> I have NO experience with this but couldn't you hook 2 of the gauges
> in series?

In theory it would cut the amperage in half it would also reduce the
voltage to the second gauge in the series by the resistance of the
first one so it would not function correctly.

I've played with resistors some and discovered they heat up in direct
proportion to the amount of work they have to do to reduce the
amperage and voltage input so heat sinking them will get the job done
up to a point. Choosing the right type of resistor is important as
well.

One advantage of the ballast resistor is that it is a ferrite wound
coil which has the added advantage of reducing or "Choking" harmonic
noise which should help with the gauges operation.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 10:36:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: gauges
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 09:27:05 -0400
> From: billjhs
> Subject: gauges

> Hi, I have seen many responses to the gauge question but what
> values would be suited for the 12v to 6v conversion for the
> gauges???

Tom Cloud on our bronco list would be much better at answering this
one but if I were to do it I'd hook it up to the battery with the
engine running and see what comes out the other end (to ground) with
a multimeter. If I got between 6 and 8 volts with the engine reved
up a bit I'd be happy I think.


-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 09:17:38 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: gauges
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The question is asked:

>Does anyone know a good way to use 6v gauges on a 12v system. Its a 1951
>f-1 ford and the gauges are bi-metallic. I tried a solid state
>regulator, but the gauge burned it out.Any ideas???? Thanks Bill

There are several ways, depending on how much current Your gauges draw.

First, what regulator did You burn out? Did it have adequate heat sinking?
Input and output capacitors to protect it from volt spikes?

For gauges that draw a *total* of less than 1 amp, a 7806 should be O.K.

For gauges that draw less than 1 amp each but more than 1 amp total,
You can use one 7806 on *each* gauge. (4 gauges uses 4 regulators..)

or:
You can build a simple high current regulator from a zener diode,
a high current darlington transistor, a resistor and 2 capacitors.

There's other methods as well, including building a nice switching
regulator (efficient, but complex)
or using a resistor to drop voltage (cheap and dirty)
I can't really recommend the resistor method since V = I*R and
so the voltage varies with current load. They work O.K. for some
things, but are my *last* choice by a long shot....

For bimetalic style gauges, I would probably build the zener/darlington
regulator. It's a very simple circuit and can be built to handle
10 amps or more. (with adequate heat sinking)
I've used this circuit many times on VW 6 to 12v conversions.
(to run the 6v wiper motor)
I will describe or draw it for You if You want but my ASCII art skills
are pretty poor, so be warned...

There's 3.415 BTU's in a watt-hour and You will likely be dissipating
5 to 15 watts so whatever method You choose will generate considerable
heat. (except the switching regulator)
A decent heat sink and input/output protection capacitors are a must
for the electronic regulators.

If You want more info about any of these methods, just ask.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 11:23:12 -0500
From: "Terry R Sherman"
To:
Subject: Re: gauges
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hooking them in parallel will half the wattage, hooking them in series will
half the voltage. If you get a 12v to 6v transformer... I think you
understand...



Thank You,
Terry Sherman
terbear discover-net.net
'76 Ford Highboy...

----------
> From: John Strauss
> To: Ford Trucks List
> Subject: gauges
> Date: Friday, July 25, 1997 7:53 AM
>
> >Does anyone know a good way to use 6v gauges on a 12v system.
>
> I have NO experience with this but couldn't you hook 2 of the gauges in
series?
>
>
> _
> _| ~~. John Strauss
> \, _} jstrauss inetport.com
> \( Texas Fight!
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 12:02:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: disc brake problems... fixed (sort of)
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ken,
> I've checked out the page. Not bad! You want a link to your
> pages on our links page?

No. It is kind of refreshing *not* to read about Mustangs :-).

rick
'66 Mustang coupe
'71 F100 daily driver
--
Rick Larson rick adc.com
Minneapolis

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 14:34:03 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Cc: bigbroncos off -road. com
Subject: Re: Ford rears
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

Just got the following reply from TSM in response to a question about
OEM adapters for the rear disk brakes so all OEM parts with the
exception of the mount frame or backing plate could be used. Here is
their reply:

> Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 13:30:13 -0400 (EDT)
> From: TSMMFG aol.com
> To: gpeters3 ef5396.efhd.ford.com
> Subject: Re: Ford rears

> TSM MFG. CO. INC.
> 4321 E. WILLOW CREEK ROAD
> CASTLE ROCK CO 80104-9766
> (303) 688-6882 FAX (303) 660-4660
>
> ...YOU CAN SEE OUR CATALOG ON WWW.MIRACLEMILE.COM Look under Coming
> Attractions!...
>
> Gary,
> Thank you for your E:Mail inquiry. In answer to your
> questions We
> have 3 different kits for the same Ford 9" axle because there are
> three different bearing ends. Our kit uses a G.M. Caliper.
> Unfortuneately, we have no idea what Ford backing plates would fit
> on those housings.
>
> Sincerely,
> Cliff
> Jones
> President
>

And I'm still looking for some info on my plan to use FORD parts, not
GM for my rear brake conversion! Anybody got any clues?


-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: 24 Jul 97 23:08:25 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'FORD TRUCKS'"
Subject: thanks
Message-ID:

I would like to say thanks to everyone on the list who helped me out with my
questions, etc. I have my '67 up and running. It still has quite the stuck
lifter noise, but I'm driving it around as my regular vehicle. Thanks all!!

I am still having trouble with the backup lights though. If the backup light
switch is integral with the neutral safety switch, is replacing this switch the
most likely cure? All the wiring looks okay.

Thanks again for the help,

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 15:05:26 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Reverse/Neutral switch
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: 24 Jul 97 23:08:25 EDT
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: thanks

> I am still having trouble with the backup lights though. If the
> backup light switch is integral with the neutral safety switch, is
> replacing this switch the most likely cure? All the wiring looks
> okay.

Not sure about that old a vehicle but that's probably true. You can
check out the switch if you have a test light with battery by
disconnecting it at the plug and checking for continuity between the
pins on the switch side of the plug with the shifter in park and
again in one of the gears other than neutral. First use a 12v, non
powered tester to find the hot wire on the truck side of the plug so
you know how to test the switch by using it in circuit with the other
two pins etc..

Something I find often is that the socket the bulb goes into has a
brass tab on the inside to ground the bulb which gets corroded and
falls out. You can miss this little gem if you're not specifically
looking for it, I have :-( Other things that go wrong are the spring
that pushes the contact against the bottom of the bulb. Since these
sockets are exposed to lots of junk in spite of their relatively
protected enclosure these are high on my list to inspect.

With the same test light and a piece of wire the length of the truck
you can also check the wire continuity.

Also, Ford uses a lot of rubber, supposedely self sealing plugs which
cause no end of trouble. I've found that silicone grease liberally
applied to both sides of the plugs often helps.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 17:57:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 48 F1 F1 F1 F1 Overheating
Message-ID:

I deleted all the earlier posts already, but this is about the '48 F1 (not
F100) which overheats on the road. Some good ideas already, 'specially about
the collapsed lower hose - that can happen on the flathead V8s, too.
Assuming its a V8 - a large part of what makes a flathead V8 hard to keep
cool (I supposed its true of any flathead) is the amount of exhaust passage
in the block - something like 8' in the 239. If you have a particularly
restrictive exhaust, prolonged high rpm running heats things up past the
capability of the cooling system. These puppies were never intended to run
60 out on the highway (mine sounds scary at 50). An old flathead trick was
to put a divider between the exhaust valves of the middle two cylinders, held
in basically by the head bolts. Not an easy task to install, but it reduced
reversion for those middle cylinders, and supposedly got the exhaust flowing
better. Free horsepower, and cooler running to boot.
Someone asked if the fan shroud was in place - that would help a low speed,
to keep the fan pulling air through the radiator instead of just pushing the
air around in the engine compartment, but it doesn't matter at road speeds.
Belt condition and tension is critical on the V8. The faster the rpm, the
more they want to slip; they don't contact that much of the circumference of
the water pump pulleys; and a lot of people aren't patient enough to set up
the two belts correctly. The fan belt is less important than the water
pump/generator belt in this situation.
I don't remember if you mentioned how you know its overheating. Just the
guage? Or does it boil over or something? If I recall, 48 didn't have a
pressure cap. They started in '51, with 4 measly pounds or so. When they
went to the pressure cap, they changed the calibration of the variable
resistance sending unit (one is variable, the other is on/off, for boiling
warning). On later trucks it's common for an older (incorrect) sending unit
to make the guage read too high - I can't quite figure a combination which
would make a 48 read incorrectly, but its possible, I guess. Thats probably
not the case if it reads OK most of the time. Mine reads pretty hot all the
time, but its not. Even in DC's recent 95-100 degree days it only moved up a
little from its normal, which made me pretty happy, although I personally was
overheating.
You're probably tired of hearing from everybody by now. To recap
belts
lower hoses
timing (always an overheating suspect)
exhaust
sending unit/guage combo
all the standard stuff - pumps, thermos, crud, radiator...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 97 17:49:33 PDT
From: mcat epix.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ford rears
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII

Gary,
I believe that I might have the answer to your problem. I just
made a 4 wheel disc swap on my 56 f-100. The rear was changed to a 67-72
9" truck rear years ago. But this winter I decided to go with disc all
around. The front uses mustang caliphers and the rear uses 75-79 lincoln
mark 5 caliphers. The swap is easy enough but some what lengthy fo the
net. If you want give me a call at 716-326-6050. I`m in western NY I`llbe
out for awhile tonight but should be home after 9:00pm. The swap uses all
Ford parts on the rear!
Garry
--- On Fri, 25 Jul 1997 14:34:03 +0000 "Gary, 78 BBB"
wrote:

>Just got the following reply from TSM in response to a question about
>OEM adapters for the rear disk brakes so all OEM parts with the
>exception of the mount frame or backing plate could be used. Here is
>their reply:
>
>> Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 13:30:13 -0400 (EDT)
>> From: TSMMFG aol.com
>> To: gpeters3 ef5396.efhd.ford.com
>> Subject: Re: Ford rears
>
>> TSM MFG. CO. INC.
>> 4321 E. WILLOW CREEK ROAD
>> CASTLE ROCK CO 80104-9766
>> (303) 688-6882 FAX (303) 660-4660
>>
>> ...YOU CAN SEE OUR CATALOG ON WWW.MIRACLEMILE.COM Look under Coming
>> Attractions!...
>>
>> Gary,
>> Thank you for your E:Mail inquiry. In answer to your
>> questions We
>> have 3 different kits for the same Ford 9" axle because there are
>> three different bearing ends. Our kit uses a G.M. Caliper.
>> Unfortuneately, we have no idea what Ford backing plates would fit
>> on those housings.
>>
>> Sincerely,
>> Cliff
>> Jones
>> President
>>
>
>And I'm still looking for some info on my plan to use FORD parts, not
>GM for my rear brake conversion! Anybody got any clues?
>
>
>-- Gary Peters --
>
>(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
>(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
>(Daughter's)92 Tempo
>(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
>(Wife's)94 T-Bird
>(Son's)90 F-150, I6
>(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
>All mine to work on, maintain etc..
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

-----------------End of Original Message-----------------


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Name: Garry
E-mail: mcat epix.net
Date: 7/25/97 Time: 5:49:33 PM

427 Fe powered 56 F-100 Wild by design
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 18:28:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ford rears
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> From: mcat epix.net
> Date: Fri, 25 Jul 97 17:49:33 PDT
> Subject: Re: Ford rears

> 75-79 lincoln mark 5 caliphers. The swap is easy enough but some

If you're still there, does this swap use stock Lincolin caliper
frames or backing plates? I bet those calipers are the same ones
they use on the trucks of those years? (I'm hoping anyway :-))

I'll try to call tonight but I have to go to the hospital to visit my
wife's cousin's husband who is possibly dying of MS and related
complications so I may wait till Tuesday to try to contact you.


-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 19:26:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: JSanc82344 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
cc: JSanc82344 aol.com
Subject: Re: 56 Front Grill Wanted
Message-ID:

Yes I will, as soon as I find the 56 grill. I'll let you know.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 19:38:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: OldTrux aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1967 330 engine and 4spd trans
Message-ID:

Is that 4 speed a New Process 435? Will it bolt right into my '66 F100 4x4?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 09:12:52 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> Sorry, I should have been more clear. I was talking about circle
> dirt track like Oak Shade or Toledo. I don't have first hand
> informantion or experience, this was told to me by one who is
> currently campaigning one.
>
> I can see how you can get a rich engine to run cooler but what about
> preignition or spark knock?
>
> -- Gary Peters --

I have a friend that runs a dirt circle in Memphis and you are correct
they have heat problems. You have to keep in mind these are called
stock classes but they are not. The are limited in the type parts they
use but not nessesarily the machine work. These guys are hard to get to
when asking about thier cars they do not usually give away thier
secrets. Allow me to give you a "stock" combonation from the mini
stocks keeping in mind this is an actual combo and the big boys aka
sportsman use simular combo's.

2.3L 4 CYL

(this is a Pinto engine)

[block]
leave the stock stroke polish and shot peen the crank.
punch block .110
use 350 Chevy connecting rods with ARP rod bolts
use AMC std bore 6L pistons (they check this by removig plug and looking
in hole they see std stamped on top of piston but it's .110 over)
use True seal gapless red head rings
use main studs and straps from ARP.
Balance and Blue Print

[head]
shave head .100 or to bottom of intake bolt holes which ever comes
first.
cc and match chambers
flow and do full port job
use bronze guides
use the large stainless valves
comp cam 294 solid and high pressure spings

[intake and carb]
use lower half of fuel injection manifold polished and ported with 2 BBL
addapter and holly 600 cfm 2 BBL carb w/ pluged power valves, 50 cc pump
and jets drilled out .125

[exhaust]
equal leangth headers (tuned)

there are a few other things but you get the idea. This is
representitive of what is running at the oval and this little 4 banger
is pulling +/- 300 HP at 8500 RPM and they run one gallon av gas with
four gallons 93 Ammco (100 octane leaded).

There is no pinging if you put enough fuel in wet and use a cold plug.
The secret to this is start the fire at the top of the cylinder and let
the fuel burn all the way to the bottom it pushes the piston down
instead of slaping it down whitch produces horse power.

When setting the engine up choose your cam calculate your loss of
compression due to valve overlap then decide what compression ratio you
need to actually want to run (dynamic compression) the calculate the
static compression to allow your dynamic to be were you want it.
Example if you calc that you'll loss 2 points of compression to valve
overlap and you want to "run" a dynamic compression of 10:1 then your
static compression will have to be 12:1. if dynamic comp is to high you
get spontanious combustion aka desealing or a ping/preignition.

BTW water or steam injection is a trick you can use to raise comp
without ping by retarding or slowing the burn. Remember the high octane
the slower the burn.

There are two ways to figure octane the motor number and the research
number. The research number gives the octain at 2000 RPM and does not
take into account the higher RPM lean out so it rates at 100 but runs
lousy; whereas, the motor number is octian from idle to 6500 RPM. ever
notice the little sticker on the pump that says (M + R)/2=octain this
means the octain is being calculated at an average of the two numbers.

Now I hope I have'nt beat this to death. Sorry Ken no Ford truck
spacific content.

I'm gonna have to go lay down now.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 22:27:15 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: thanks
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 11:08 PM 7/24/97 EDT, you wrote:
>I would like to say thanks to everyone on the list who helped me out with my
>questions, etc. I have my '67 up and running. It still has quite the stuck
>lifter noise, but I'm driving it around as my regular vehicle. Thanks all!!

Have you considered some Marvel Mystery oil or engine flush to free
up gummed lifters? Sometimes it does the trick.

>
>I am still having trouble with the backup lights though. If the backup light
>switch is integral with the neutral safety switch, is replacing this switch the
>most likely cure? All the wiring looks okay.
>

Yes.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 09:26:12 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ford rears
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> Just got the following reply from TSM in response to a question about
> OEM adapters for the rear disk brakes so all OEM parts with the
> exception of the mount frame or backing plate could be used. Here is
> their reply:
>
> > Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 13:30:13 -0400 (EDT)
> > From: TSMMFG aol.com
> > To: gpeters3 ef5396.efhd.ford.com
> > Subject: Re: Ford rears
>
> > TSM MFG. CO. INC.
> > 4321 E. WILLOW CREEK ROAD
> > CASTLE ROCK CO 80104-9766
> > (303) 688-6882 FAX (303) 660-4660
> >
> > ...YOU CAN SEE OUR CATALOG ON WWW.MIRACLEMILE.COM Look under Coming
> > Attractions!...
> >
> > Gary,
> > Thank you for your E:Mail inquiry. In answer to your
> > questions We
> > have 3 different kits for the same Ford 9" axle because there are....


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