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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 17:18:04 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #122
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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 122

Today's Topics:

RE: proportioning valve location [Randy Collins ]
Re: All this and still HOT!! [Daver ]
Re: vey funny John Strauss [Daver ]
Re: Disc brake conversion problems ["Donald R. Screen"
'62 F-250 4x4 value / engine choices ["Mike & Evan" ]
Re: 9" positraction unit [u176475 webtv.net (Shannon Pate) ]
Ok here's my theroy.... [gusinks ruraltel.net (Clark Gustafs]
HELP ["Turner, Randy" ]
Re: Ok here's my theroy.... [JIM HURD ]
Re: Ok here's my theroy.... ["George Shepherd"
Full Time Vs. Part-Time [reedg ns2.cetlink.net ]
Re: EconoLine Van Meet [William Sabers
Re: All this and still HOT!! [daffin satcom.whit.org (Mike ) ]
Re: HELP [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]

Administrivia:

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For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request lofcom.com
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 19:38:27 -0700
From: Randy Collins
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: proportioning valve location
Message-ID:
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From: Ken Payne [SMTP:kpayne mindspring.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 1997 12:54 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: proportioning valve location

If someone here can tell me how a 76 proportioning
valve mounts I would appreciate it. I fabriated
a mount for my 67 when I did the change over to discs.
I didn't have this list as a resource then, I do for
my friend's 68 so if someone out there knows I'd
appreciate it. The location for the split-off/pressure
differential switch on the 68 is on the frame, crammed
in front of the tranny frame rail. It doesn't look
like the 76's proportioning valve will fit there.

-Ken

Ken,

I have 3 Ford trucks at my disposal. A 1975 F250 Supercab 2WD, a 1977 =
F150 2WD and a 1977 1/2 F250 4WD. All the proportioning valves on these =
trucks are in different locations. =20

All proportioning valves appear to be the same. I don't know if Ford =
lists different part numbers for the different valves but all of these =
trucks have front disc and rear drum brakes. =20

The 1977 1/2 F250 4WD is in the best location. It mounts between the =
frame rails on the opposite side of the front cab mounts. The =
proportioning valve bolts to a bracket then the bracket bolts to the =
frame rail. You unbolt the bracket from the outside of the frame rail =
directly under (inside?) the cab mounts. =20

The 1977 F150 2WD is covered in grease so it is difficult to see. It =
looks like it uses the same u-shaped bracket on the 4WD. It mounts =
behind the front cross-member directly under the left motor mount. =20

The 1975 F250 2WD has had the front frame rails removed from it so I =
can't give you the exact mounting details. It has a completely =
different mounting bracket. If I remember correctly it mounts above the =
frame rails. I believe that it is suspended above the frame rails and =
is kinda free standing. =20

It would be really easy to bend some 1/8" metal into a u-shape and mount =
the bracket to the frame rails or behind a cross-member like the setup =
used on the 1977 2 and 4WD trucks. =20

Drop me a note if you need more info on any of this. =20

Later,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6



-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Payne [SMTP:kpayne mindspring.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 1997 12:54 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: proportioning valve location

If someone here can tell me how a 76 proportioning
valve mounts I would appreciate it. I fabriated
a mount for my 67 when I did the change over to discs.
I didn't have this list as a resource then, I do for
my friend's 68 so if someone out there knows I'd
appreciate it. The location for the split-off/pressure
differential switch on the 68 is on the frame, crammed
in front of the tranny frame rail. It doesn't look
like the 76's proportioning valve will fit there.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)
fordtrucks lofcom.com is the 1979 and older truck list,
fordtrucks80up lofcom.com is the 1980 and newer truck list..
(Email me if you're on the wrong list)


____________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 09:19:45 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: All this and still HOT!!
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Jim Strigas wrote:
>
> Daver and Jim, are you taking into consideration the part of
> Griz's post that says...
>
> >heating up to about 260+ when I am running on the highway
> at about 70mph >for about 10-15 miles. It hasn't blown
> water out.....yet.
>
> I don't want to give bad advice but, I don't think it's
> overheating! I would find a thermometer that goes up past
> 400 deg. drill a hole in the radiator cap for it, and see
> what temp it really is. If it's not overheating on that
> thermometer it only cost a new cap! Maybe where the sender
> is, is blocked and it's only getting hot there and not the
> whole system.
> What do you guy's think?

Actually Jim thats not a bad idea let me go one better. There is a plug
usually in the termostat housing that you can use to insert a threaded
TI (tempreture instrument.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 09:23:42 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: vey funny John Strauss
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

marko maryniak wrote:
>
> >Robert Cook wrote:
> >>
> >> Well John I guess it would take one of you Texans to think I wanted you
> >> to lay the whole engine on the office xerox machine. If it will keep you
> >> from getting in trouble you can take the valve covers off. I would still
> >> like you to lay the rest of the engine on there and get me a copy of
> >> that label. What if I said please, would that make a difference.
> >>
> >> Touche' from Houston Texas,
> >> Robert Cook
> >John maybe you could put the xerox on top of the engine? does any one
> >know if a xerox machine will function inverted?
> >
> >Molater
> >
> >Daver
> >
> maybe once the xerox is done, we could have Ken post it on the pictures
> page.....

A picture of the event would probable be far more interesting than what
the xerox machine sees.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 20:45:45 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion problems
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> This past week I've helped a friend with a 68 F100
> convert over to discs. Its been a multitude of
> problems!
>
> It was a power brake 4 drum system. First, we put
> a new '76 master cylinder on it and bled the system
> last week. It stopped just fine.
>
> This week we changed the spindles over, the 76 stock
> flexible hoses weren't long enough to allow the wheels
> to turn much. Stock is 19 inchs, we needed 24. Got
> custom hoses (68 bucks!) and installed them. Bled the
> system, aligned it...
>
> No brakes. The peddle sinks to the floor and the
> last 1/4-1/2 inch has brakes. Pumping really doesn't
> help. There is **no** air in the system, we bled
> it twice to make sure. It does not yet have a disc
> brake proportioning valve installed, that was being
> saved for this weekend. Where's the problem? The
> lack of a valve? I'm at a loss! I don't think its
> the vacuum booster or master cylinder as they worked
> fine before we changed over to discs.
>
> Ken


Ken,
Since it is a "closed" system `` 1111111`12F2FQAZWF655555C
(Please excuse the typing, my 5 month old grandson and Ace Ford Truck
Mechanic was trying help solve your problem!) You should not have the
pedal sink to the floor unless:

1. A leak somewhere in the system.
2. Bad master cylinder seals
3. Air in the system after breaking it open.
4. You've just had a really bad day tinkering on your truck.

I used one of those plastic vacuum pumps to bleed my brakes by myself
and it worked great! About $21 at Walmart..Don't need a second person
to pump the brakes and I think it gets more air out of the system too.
I would say it is definitely not the fault of the vacuum booster.
Fluid is either getting by the seals in the master cylinder or it is
leaking out somewhere in the closed system. ie. lines, wheel
cylinders, etc.

I hate to say it, but my bet is the master cylinder...even though you
recently changed it. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before
installation?

Don
Allen, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 09:53:36 -0500
From: "Mike & Evan"
To:
Subject: '62 F-250 4x4 value / engine choices
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I just bought another truck, gotta quit impulsive buying. Anyway it was a
deal I could not pass up. Let me give you the details:
1962 F-250 4x4 60,050 miles (original!).


4 spd. (warner?) 262 cu. 6 cyl.
All original. Perfect chrome, fair paint, minor body dings, little cab
floor and cab corner rust
NO BOX / BED. Everything works, EVERYTHING!! Had PTO winch, gone now.
Great interior, everything works inside too. Lockouts.
What is this truck worth? I paid $350 for it. Runs like new, drives
great, everything is tight. 4wd works good too. Is it worth $1,000 more,
less?
I have two things in mind: sell it because I already have a '75 4wd with
soon to be installed 460, or fix it up?
Will I be able to find a box? How much do they run?
Well, if I keep it, it definitely needs a bigger motor. What motors will
bolt up with the stock 4 spd.? I have a 400 BB in a '72 Galaxie I could
put in it. Or a 360 (rebuild to a 390 of course)? Or a 302? All of which
I have around. How about a 460? How about the transfer case? Will that
be a problem in a engine swap? What transfer case do I have?
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Still looking for 460 headers or exhaust manifolds for my '75 4wd swap.

Mike Vonhof
yasky netins.net

'75 F-250 4wd (soon to have 460 power, 35" BFG Muds)
'72 Galaxie (work car w/ 400)
'79 Mustang (still needs alot of work!)
'62 F-250 4wd (had to buy, I'll buy anything for the right price!)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 23:36:56 -0400
From: u176475 webtv.net (Shannon Pate)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 9" positraction unit
Message-Id:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

OK; 9 out of 10 came with posi units in them a way to check the
gearing with out tacking the center
section out is to spin the axel until yolk makes one revalution and
divide that into the amount of times the axel made a revalution also
try spinning one axel one way and the other the other way if it will
spin than you have a limited slip rearend
if itdoesent then you have aposi unit ??????

central, fl
looking for 71 to 79 4 door crew cab or complete truck badly //////////


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 02:11:36 -0500
From: gusinks ruraltel.net (Clark Gustafson)
To: "Ford Truck Mailing List"
Subject: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

When I bought the truck it was overheating ( I know what your thinking but
the price was right!) anyway, first I replaced the sending unit, then on
close inspection and only after trying to flush the dern thing five times I
realized the radiator was very plugged(dah!) so I replaced it. Then when
this didn't work I tried removing the thermost and replaced the 170degree
with a 160, and still HOT, so I replaced the electric sender with a
mechanical and guess what....H O T. I replaced the timing chain and cover
gaskets recently so on went a new rebuilt water pump...........but nope
ahhhhhhh! Now the therory: If after all this, and still the engine is
hot, whats left? Well, either the water jackets as plugged as the old
radiator was (our water is not the greatest here) or the head gasket is
wrong-backa**wards-homemade? Now I think that it has to be the water
jacket, I read somewhere that 1/16th of an inch of crap on a block can
cause a reduction of heat transfer by 40%, thats quite a little amount of
buildup to cause such problems (that ought to get you all stirred up with
discussion...lol) So what do I use to remove that buildup of crap? I was
told to flush good then fill with water minus a quart and add a quart of
"Meric" acid and run for about 1/2 hour then flush again. And if that
don't work then take it to a reputable shop and have it "pressure flushed".
Any other ideas?? Thanks again guys!! Couldn't do it without ya! Griz

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 07:16:00 -0500
From: "Turner, Randy"
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: HELP
Message-ID:

>I am currently restoring a 1950 F1 Ford Pickup, frameup. I'm very much
>an amateur at this with some shade tree tudors.
>
>I had the frame sand blasted and primed. Then I painted the frame with
>an Acrylic Enamel (compatible with the primer he said). I now have some
>problems with the paint chipping, very easily in places, when the paint
>gets a hit from a wrench or something like that. I have had some people
>tell me that I should have used POR-15. I don't mind going thru the
>sand blast process again to get it right. I have also had people tell
>me that products like POR-15 may allow moisture to collect between the
>paint and metal, this isn't good either.
>
>Can anyone give me some tried and true advise on frames and paint?
>
>Randy
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 09:34:09 -0500 (EST)
From: JIM HURD
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Griz,
If you have the 1/16th of an inch of crap in the block (and it is
reducing the heat transfer by 40%, then how is your coolant getting
hot? (Seems to me that your coolant would be 40% cooler than normal)

FFT (FWIW)

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 08:39:44 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The "meric" sounds muratic acid, the type used to clean swimming pool
bottoms. It also sounds like a desperate last ditch solution :-)). I really
can't think that anything short of a vat boil out will save this block and
that would probably only be done in conjunction with a rebuild.

----------
> From: Clark Gustafson
> To: Ford Truck Mailing List
> Subject: Ok here's my theroy....
> Date: Monday, July 21, 1997 2:11 AM
>
> When I bought the truck it was overheating ( I know what your thinking
but
> the price was right!) anyway, first I replaced the sending unit, then on
> close inspection and only after trying to flush the dern thing five times
I
> realized the radiator was very plugged(dah!) so I replaced it. Then when
> this didn't work I tried removing the thermost and replaced the 170degree
> with a 160, and still HOT, so I replaced the electric sender with a
> mechanical and guess what....H O T. I replaced the timing chain and cover
> gaskets recently so on went a new rebuilt water pump...........but nope
> ahhhhhhh! Now the therory: If after all this, and still the engine is
> hot, whats left? Well, either the water jackets as plugged as the old
> radiator was (our water is not the greatest here) or the head gasket is
> wrong-backa**wards-homemade? Now I think that it has to be the water
> jacket, I read somewhere that 1/16th of an inch of crap on a block can
> cause a reduction of heat transfer by 40%, thats quite a little amount of
> buildup to cause such problems (that ought to get you all stirred up with
> discussion...lol) So what do I use to remove that buildup of crap? I was
> told to flush good then fill with water minus a quart and add a quart of
> "Meric" acid and run for about 1/2 hour then flush again. And if that
> don't work then take it to a reputable shop and have it "pressure
flushed".
> Any other ideas?? Thanks again guys!! Couldn't do it without ya! Griz
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 21:58:42 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Full Time Vs. Part-Time
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

'78 F-150 4x4 C-6 trans. Full-Time 4 wheel drive. (NP203, I think)

I finally got the truck in the back yard. And I have the first of
what I am sure will be plenty of questions.
It has something wrong with the transfer case. It will only engage in
lo lock. Should I rebuild the transfer case? (I kinda believe that if
it is old, and you have to pull it out anyway, why not rebuild it
while you have it out.) What would it take to swap in a part-time
system?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 10:28:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: William Sabers
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: EconoLine Van Meet
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Just a note for anyone concerned...
I have a friend with a 76(?) Econoline van with fresh 302 in it.
He is asking $1600 OBO. The paint is faded and there is not much rust.
If anyone is interested email me at wsabers sundance.usd.edu


> I just heard that there is going to be a Econoline Van only meet it up
> state Ny its around Lake Placid. The # is 518-576-4498 ask for Jeff
> McCasland. Tell him Pat from Mass sent you
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 10:27:10 -0600
From: daffin satcom.whit.org (Mike )
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: All this and still HOT!!
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hey all...

Good news: My truck f-100 351C supercab longbed was not actually
getting hot.. it was just elling me that so I would stop and relax a while..
I hve gone through and found a vacum leak that was causing the motor to run
incorrectly.. and therefore causing the engine to overheat..
Maybe this is what is overheating yours... sounds like it could be
the culprit.



Mike.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 11:04:31 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: HELP
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>>I am currently restoring a 1950 F1 Ford Pickup, frameup. I'm very much
>>an amateur at this with some shade tree tudors.
>>
>>I had the frame sand blasted and primed. Then I painted the frame with....

---

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