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Return-Path: From: fordtrucks-digest-request Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 20:26:03 -0400 (EDT) X-Authentication-Warning: t3.media3.net: lof set sender to fordtrucks-digest-request Subject: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #108 X-Loop: fordtrucks-digest X-Mailing-List: archive/volume97/108 X-Distributed-By: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ To: fordtrucks-digest Reply-To: fordtrucks ------------------------------ Content-Type: text/plain fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 108 Today's Topics: Re: Edelbrock swap question ["Jim Strigas" 53 truck ["DASH8" ] Re: 9" rear ends [marko Re: Transfer cases [reedg Do the I's have it? ["Jim Strigas" Broken Teeth [Jerry & Lisa ] Re: Do the I's have it? [Chris Kelly ] 77 F150 Questions [SHOman ] Will 429 fit a 77 f150 [SHOman ] Re: Will 429 fit a 77 f150 [John Macnamara ] RE: Will 429 fit a 77 f150 [Kevin Kemmerer ] RE: 77 F150 Questions [Kevin Kemmerer ] Thanks [Jerry & Lisa ] "Junker Laws" [Keith Srb ] Re: Broken Teeth [Don Grossman ] Re: Broken Teeth [Jerry & Lisa ] RE: Broken Teeth [Kevin Kemmerer ] Re: Broken Teeth ["George Shepherd" Re: Engine mystery [TACYCBR Re: Broken Teeth ["George Shepherd" Administrivia: ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-digest-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ____________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 16:36:27 -0700 From: "Jim Strigas" To: Subject: Re: Edelbrock swap question Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Two cents here, two cents there. I'll just drop a dime! I raised my engine (a 302) with a floorjack, but I just put it under the harmonic balancer, I also had a few parts off it, Ok, I had it down to the short block, but that's not my point. My point is if I had a hoist, I would have used it. The problem I've come across, are people I've told a less than desirable method of doing a task, and they treat it as a "no harm can come doing this because I said so"! Case in point, I tell people I don't turn my rotors unless I have to! Then they complain when their brakes are wornout in a month and say "the guy at the store said it's because I didn't turn my rotors"! You go look at their rotors and there's a valley cut so deep (How deep is it?) So deep, when you put on the brakes it screams "AS IF"! Ooo, Tough Crowd! If it's burning, bending, cracking, braking or any like action that would constitute damage to; life, limb or property, it's wrong, no matter who told you "it's Ok to do it that way"! Jim Strigas jstrigas '73 F100 '83 XJ900RK '86 GL1200 Custom '77 Buick Estate Wagon ---------- > From: Ken Payne > To: fordtrucks > Subject: Re: Edelbrock swap question > Date: Tuesday, July 08, 1997 3:38 PM > > At 11:43 AM 7/8/97 -0700, you wrote: > > > >Ken writes: > >>I know that with a 390 you can jack it up enough by the crank behind > >>the pulley. I believe the 360 crank can take the stress too but if > >>anyone out there knows this to be untrue please correct me. Loosen > >>the engine mounts and unbolt the tranny mount. A floor jack with > >>a 2x4 (to give the crank a soft surface with a little "give") works. > >>Don't take it up more than a couple of inches, give it the least amount > >>of clearance you can get away with as the engine is heavy (670lbs, > >>not including the intake and exhaust manifolds!) and thats alot of weight > >>on the crank (although they are notoriously strong). > > > > I don't *know* if jacking by the crank is bad, but it would make me nervous.. > > > > I'd only be a little worried about bending an FE crank, but even a > > couple thousandths would be enough to cause big trouble. > > Mostly tho, I'd worry about damaging (denting) the front bearing. > > Because the crank journal O.D. is slightly smaller than the bearing I.D, > > with no oil pressure the crank will only contact the bearing along a narrow > > line parallel with the axis of the crank and will see an awfull lot of load > > on a small area with a FE and all the fixins hanging on it. > > > > When the motor is running, a layer of oil under pressure distributes the > > crank forces out across a much larger area. > > Of course it's hard to get the jack to stay under the crank with it running... > > > > Dunno if it hurts or not, but I'd hate to risk shortening my main bearing > > lifespan to change a pan gasket. > > > > Happy motoring, > > > > Steve Delanty > > > > 1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed > > > > I used this method effectively with my engine. The reason I asked > about the 360 is because it has a lighter crank. I only lifted > my 390 on one side at a time though, about 2 inches to put in a new > engine mounts. Over 10,000 miles since and no problems. I wouldn't > recommend it as a means to completely lift the engine out, like I said, > just enough to get the pan out. It would be best to use a hoist, > especially on a tired engine. > > I'm glad you pointed out the bearing issue. That's why I asked > for dissenting opinions on the issue. A local engine builder told > me the crank trick, and quite frankly I had never thought about the > bearings. Next time I'll get a hoist. > > -Ken > List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8 > Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks > (subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site) > fordtrucks > fordtrucks80up list.. > (Email me if you're on the wrong list) > > > _____________________________________________________________ _______ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 20:56:09 -0400 From: "DASH8" To: "FORD" Subject: 53 truck Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit what engine & tranny came with a 53 f1 truck thanks ken ... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 18:06:41 -0700 From: marko To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: 9" rear ends Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >Anyway.. so where's this "N" located? You don't expect me to clean the whole >thing to look for it do You? (Yeah, I know, it would greatly reduce >unsprung weight...) > >Happy motoring, > > Steve Delanty > > 1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed > The N is located on the pumpkin cover, above the pinion, probably on the left hand side as you're looking at the cover. If it's cast in there you can't miss it, it's big, probably an inch high. marko in vancouver ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 22:15:45 +0000 From: reedg To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: Transfer cases Message-Id: Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > >So what did they put in a 1978 F150 Custom 4x4? I don't see anything > >on the front hubs where you can lock or unlock the hubs. > > This is either the NP203 full time 4x4 transfer case, or it has > auto-locking hubs. > If the shift lever for your transfer case has "hi lock, hi, neutral, lo, > and lo lock" positions, it's a NP203. If it has "4H, 2H, N, 4L" positions, > it's most likely a NP205 with automatic hubs (though if this is the case, > it may very well be that the previous owner changed the front hubs to be > this way ... ) > It has hi lock, hi, neutral, lo and lo lock. I haven't had a chance to look at it this week because it's about 120 miles away. I bought it ('78 F150 SB 4x4) from a friend of my brother for $300. Apparently something is wrong with the transfer case because it will only run in lo lock. It has the 351M engine. The engine runs pretty good(when it is warmed up). I know this isn't what you would call a "Classic" but what the heck, the price was right. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do to the engine to increase performance? I have a reasonable sized budget but I don't want to spend it all on the engine. I am also considering a complete engine rebuild. And since I have problems with the transfer case should I repair it or replace it with a NP205? I am not too concerned with gas mileage because it will not be my main transportation. Thanks in advance for any help. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 01:21:21 -0700 From: "Jim Strigas" To: "fordtrucks" Subject: Do the I's have it? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What ways are there to lower the front of an F 100 with twin I beams. Do you need to spend $265.00 For a set of I beams with a 3" drop or is there an economical way to drop the F out of my 100, without ending up with the VW flair. Can the rear be dropped 3" with just lowering blocks? I've seen a kit that looks like shackles and for a 2" rear drop they want $30.00 and a 4" rear drop they want $120.00. Summit has rear lowering blocks 3" drop for $30.00. I want my truck low, but their so high! "/ Later! Jim Strigas jstrigas '73 F100 '83 XJ900RK '86 GL1200 Custom '77 Buick Estate Wagon ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 06:22:49 -0700 From: Jerry & Lisa To: FORDTRUCKS Subject: Broken Teeth Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone know if it is possible to drive on a vehicle that has 3 or more broken teeth in the rear differential? How long could someone drive on such a vehicle? What kind of indication would a vehicle give if there were such a problem with the diff? Thanks in advance to any opinions on this matter... Gerald & Lisa '77 150 4x4 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 07:35:15 -0400 From: Chris Kelly To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: Do the I's have it? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jim Strigas wrote: > > What ways are there to lower the front of an F 100 with > twin I beams. Do you need to spend $265.00 For a set of I > beams with a 3" drop or is there an economical way to drop > the F out of my 100, without ending up with the VW flair. > Can the rear be dropped 3" with just lowering blocks? I've > seen a kit that looks like shackles and for a 2" rear drop > they want $30.00 and a 4" rear drop they want $120.00. > Summit has rear lowering blocks 3" drop for $30.00. I want > my truck low, but their so high! "/ > Later! > > Jim Strigas > jstrigas > '73 F100 > '83 XJ900RK > '86 GL1200 Custom > '77 Buick Estate Wagon > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne You should go with shortened I-beams to maintain ride quality, I have seen people order special shims to get the alignment right but there trucks had a suspension of a tank! Your choice! $ inches in the rear, price differnece might be that you can go 2 to 3 inches without flipping the rear axle, 4 inches you might have to so you are probably getting drop kit and rear axle kit. ASK? first. I am not real sure about the old trucks, but they flip the axles to help maintain driveshaft angle, a buddy of mine had to flip the axle in his ranger! Another guy I know works a t a custom shop and I stopped to see him yesterday and the kit for the new 1997 f-150 they were working on has all new axle mounts which does not flip the rear, just shorter mounts. Depends on your truck I guess. GOOD LUCK!Jim Strigas wrote: > > What ways are there to lower the front of an F 100 with > twin I beams. Do you need to spend $265.00 For a set of I > beams with a 3" drop or is there an economical way to drop > the F out of my 100, without ending up with the VW flair. > Can the rear be dropped 3" with just lowering blocks? I've > seen a kit that looks like shackles and for a 2" rear drop > they want $30.00 and a 4" rear drop they want $120.00. > Summit has rear lowering blocks 3" drop for $30.00. I want > my truck low, but their so high! "/ > Later! > > Jim Strigas > jstrigas > '73 F100 > '83 XJ900RK > '86 GL1200 Custom > '77 Buick Estate Wagon > RATHER NO HAVE AND NOT NEED IT THEN TO NEED IT AND NOT HAVE IT! > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 08:07:01 -0500 From: SHOman To: fordtrucks Subject: 77 F150 Questions Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello List, I am looking at buying a 1977 F-150 Ranger,can somebody give me some info on this truck.What years can I swap parts from good points and bad points of this year truck???Thanks Joe ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 08:44:41 -0500 From: SHOman To: fordtrucks Subject: Will 429 fit a 77 f150 Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have access to a 429 engine and wondered if it will fit in place of the tired 351M in the truck now???If my memory serve me right the 351m has a big block bolt pattern for the tranny while the 351w has a small block pattern???Right???Anybody out there do this swap? Joe ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 06:42:40 -0700 From: John Macnamara To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: Will 429 fit a 77 f150 Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit SHOman wrote: > > I have access to a 429 engine and wondered if it will fit in place of > the tired 351M in the truck now???If my memory serve me right the 351m > has a big block bolt pattern for the tranny while the 351w has a small > block pattern???Right???Anybody out there do this swap? > Joe > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne Joe: The 429 will fit in a 77 Ford. All you need is the adapters from L&L out of Dallas Texas. Both Randy Collins and myself from this list have done the swap. Feel free to ask either of us any questions you might have. John MacNamara 78 Ford F250 4X4 Supercab 67 Gt500 66 427 Corvette ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 10:17:57 -0400 From: Kevin Kemmerer To: "'fordtrucks Subject: RE: Will 429 fit a 77 f150 Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable a 429/460 will fit into any truck from the 60's up. just takes some = work sometimes. nut you are lucky. since you have the 351m it is even = easier than you might expect. the M motors and the 429 motors have the = same bellhousing bolt pattern. i have a 77 f150 with a 460 (also a 79 f350). my engine sits a little = high. i bought the motor mounts from L&L. also the fenderwell exit = headers. I have been told that the perches on the M motot trucks had a = few come from the factory were the 460 with 460 motormounts will sit a = little higher than it should. on mine this causes the header tube to = contact the outside of the frame. L&L said grind the holes longer on = the mounts. did that still sits high. they said pull headers out. = couldn't pry them outward even with a 3' bar (they are good headers). this swap is very popular and many companies support it with parts you = need or even whole kits. it can be done without these parts though. the swap is easier if you have an early 429 with the power steering pump = on the end of the crankshaft. plus if you want power the earlier pre 70 = are the heads to have. stock exhaust manifolds can be used from 460 = econoline vans in your truck. one side exits forward from the other = side. warning - i haven't seen any yet that arn't cracked badly. the = only two companies i know of with headers are L&L and i think hooker or = headman. also, a fan shroud may be hard to find. go electric if you can. i have = a plastic fan (works very well!) and had to break off the bottom of the = shroud for clearance. still haven't found the right shroud. i have room under my truck for a car oil pan being a lifted 4x4. if you = don't, then you'll need a rear sump pan and pickup tube. the truck 460 = parts or from a van will work. then you'll need to block of the = dipstick hole that goes through the timing chain cover. also you must = be sure you have the right dipstick for the pan or the dipstick will = possibly tangle with the crank. early 429 and late 460 parts are semi interchangable. from the timing = cover out they do not interchange, including water pump. the cranks are = not interchangable. most other parts will swap like heads, intake, = rods, etc. a mildly built 429/460 will put a bigger smile on your face than a well = built 351m. just remember, if you got the power you'll use it and when = you use it the light duty drivetrain parts on your 1/2 ton truck may = decide to break. i have gone through many universals and differentials. = if you do the swap check out the rest of the drivetrain for condition = before putting your foot into the loud pedal. any other questions? sleddog ---------- From: SHOman[SMTP:shoman Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 1997 9:44 AM To: fordtrucks Subject: Will 429 fit a 77 f150 I have access to a 429 engine and wondered if it will fit in place of the tired 351M in the truck now???If my memory serve me right the 351m has a big block bolt pattern for the tranny while the 351w has a small block pattern???Right???Anybody out there do this swap? Joe ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 10:30:41 -0400 From: Kevin Kemmerer To: "'fordtrucks Subject: RE: 77 F150 Questions Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable you have about 9 years of parts for most parts(70-79), and many more = years for some parts. other than dodge pre 94 trucks these fords are = have the most years of swappable parts i know of. good points? they are so good i can't list them. bad points? small list of unimportant stuff: too popular so junk yards are getting well picked over. too popular so prices may be high for what you buy depending on where = you live. windsheilds never seem to be flat enough for the wipers to work well = (anyone else have this problem or is it just me?) 78 and 79 have a weak frame compared to other years. i notice that in my area front drive shafts seem to be getting extremely = rare. in fact i have heard of some disappearing off trucks parked for = too long. -blackmarket driveshafts?;) overall i think the 70's ford and dodges are the best trucks on the = road. i have a 94 v10 4x4 dodge and i still beleive this. sleddog ---------- From: SHOman[SMTP:shoman Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 1997 9:07 AM To: fordtrucks Subject: 77 F150 Questions Hello List, I am looking at buying a 1977 F-150 Ranger,can somebody give me some info on this truck.What years can I swap parts from good points and bad points of this year truck???Thanks Joe ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 10:48:32 -0700 From: Jerry & Lisa To: FORDTRUCKS Subject: Thanks Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks to all the folks in Ford land who have helped us with our wheel/hub grind & brake bleeding questions. Our grind problem turned out to be both worn bearings and a fried rotor. This also seemed to be the source of the wobble in our front end that has plagued us for some time. The traces were so worn, the rotor could be rotated all around on the spindle. We purchased a new one and stuck new bearings in and the grind is gone, the truck also doesn't wobble as much. The left rotor will be replaced with the next paycheck. Our brake bleeding problem turned out to be a bad line going to the passenger side. We pulled the line off and noticed that the factory clamp that fastened the line to the axle was really tight. Turns out that when we cut the line at the clamped section, the life had been squeezed clean out of the rubber. The hole marking the throughway for the brake fluid was so small, any little rust particle could cause a clog. This apparently gives us the explanation as to why when we braked hard the truck pulled to the left side. We are fairly sure the passenger brake wasn't always operable when we were braking. Anyway, we replaced the line with a brand new one and the brakes work better than ever. Bleeding at this point was a cinch. We wised up and bought a bleeder pump. What a wonderful tool! Thanks again every body. Our best to all... Jerry & Lisa '77 F150 4x4 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 08:57:01 -0700 From: Keith Srb To: "'fordtrucks Subject: "Junker Laws" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have heard that some states are trying to pass a new law that would make it impossible to license a vehicle manufactured before a certain year, basically vehicles that do not have emission controls. Has anyone else heard of this? Keith Srb 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed. 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up. 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box. My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!" ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 10:15:49 +0000 From: Don Grossman To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: Broken Teeth Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just fix it. It will cost you more inthe long run if you don't. Metal chips will end up destroying the pinion bearing which in turn will ruin the pinion which then might break which could send the driveshaft flying around under the truck sticking itself into the bed and then breaking the yoke off of the transfercase and take out your brake line while heading down the longest steepest hill you have ever seen. Is that a good reason ;-) -- Don Grossman duckdon The scene; Bunch of NASA guys looking at TV monitor. "Look, A ROCK!" 63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 15:03:13 -0700 From: Jerry & Lisa To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: Broken Teeth Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I posted this message b/c apparently a jeep that we have been driving and just sold to a guy supposedly had 3 or more broken teeth in the ring/pinion gear. He believes we knew about it before selling and wants to take us to court. Is it possible to drive on a vehicle like this and what indications would there be of this problem... Gerald & Lisa ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 16:48:50 -0400 From: Kevin Kemmerer To: "'fordtrucks Subject: RE: Broken Teeth Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable i am no expert, but depending on how badly broken, and the spacing = between broken teeth it is possible that it could be driven. lagally i don't know the deal, but where i come from things are sold as = is. many problems can be there and not known of until after a sale. = did he test drive it? also, if he shows you a ring/pinion with 3 teeth = next to each other totally gone, it could not have been driven without = noticing a problem. so if he test drove, it wasn't a bad problem. ---------- From: Jerry & Lisa[SMTP:hoel Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 1997 6:03 PM To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: Broken Teeth I posted this message b/c apparently a jeep that we have been driving and just sold to a guy supposedly had 3 or more broken teeth in the ring/pinion gear. He believes we knew about it before selling and wants to take us to court. Is it possible to drive on a vehicle like this and what indications would there be of this problem... Gerald & Lisa ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 16:34:43 -0500 From: "George Shepherd" To: Subject: Re: Broken Teeth Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit That's a hell of a question because it depends on what is meant by "broken." If you mean chipped or partially broken, you can go a long way if the chips dont ruin the rest of it. Look at the pictures of the contact spot used during the setup prosess and you can see that a lot of the tooth doesn't make any contact. If the tooth is broken into the contact area, it won't last long as it will chew up the pinion or ring gear. Three teeth broken in a row into the contact area on the ring gear and you might limp home. You might also tear everything in the rear end up. Three completely broken off teeth on the ring gear and you aren't going anywhere. Chipped or partially broken teeth on the pinion gear, again isnt too bad. If broken into the contact area, its bad. If you've broken or chipped teeth on the trail and you can get a grinding tool to them, you can smooth up the sharp edges and it will last longer. If the chip or break isn't too bad, maybe last forever. ---------- > From: Jerry & Lisa > To: FORDTRUCKS > Subject: Broken Teeth > Date: Wednesday, July 09, 1997 8:22 AM > > Does anyone know if it is possible to drive on a vehicle that has 3 or > more broken teeth in the rear differential? How long could someone drive > on such a vehicle? What kind of indication would a vehicle give if there > were such a problem with the diff? Thanks in advance to any opinions on > this matter... > > > Gerald & Lisa > '77 150 4x4 > > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 19:55:07 -0400 (EDT) From: TACYCBR To: fordtrucks Subject: Re: Engine mystery Message-ID: No a 460 intake will not fit your 360 heads. It and the 429 are in the same family and they will work together. A 352 and 390 will work for you. The 352,360 and 390 are in the same family and not considered a big block.They are considered Y blocks. 78 F-100 351C 79 F-100 300 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 19:02:44 -0500 From: "George Shepherd" To: Subject: Re: Broken Teeth .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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