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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 106

Today's Topics:

Edelbrock swap question ["Donald R. Screen"
Engine mystery ["Donald R. Screen"
RE: Engine mystery [Kevin Kemmerer ]
Re: Edelbrock swap question [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: Edelbrock swap question [Ken Payne ]
Transfer cases [Serian the Technomancer Archmage
Need help again: [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott]
Re: New Process Transfer Case ["Jim Strigas"
Re: New Process Transfer Case ["Jim Strigas"
Re: F-1 VIN [JRFiero aol.com ]
Re: Edelbrock swap question [Don Grossman ]
Gas tank [Ken Payne ]
Re: New Process Transfer Case [Don Grossman ]
Max torque rating of 3 spd tranny [Mike Schwall ]
Gas Tank Welding [Randy Collins ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 23:23:01 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Edelbrock swap question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> Low restriction exhaust, Edelbrock carb, Performer intake (not fun since
> the heads have to come off to put in on). As to dropping in a 390,
> you can easily convert the 360 over to a 390 when its pulled, a whole
> lot cheaper than buying a 390 core. The only difference is the crank.


Ken,
Why do you have to pull the heads to put an Edelbrock Performer
intake manifold on a 360? I have a 1974 F100 with a 360 and was just
thinking of swapping out the manifold and carb with Edelbrock stuff.

Thanks,
Don

PS. I finally found the original engine decal buried under a few layers
of Ford blue paint on the valve cover. Some very careful scrapping of
paint revealed the 360 identification, spark plug recommendations, point
gap. etc. Still missing an accurate vacuum diagram; however, Don
Schall from Motor International sent me a 1973 F100 360 V8 diagram for
free (Nice guy!). My VIN is F10YKT61624....Y coded for the 360.

One other related question. I would like to replace the oil pan
gasket. Do I need to jack up the engine to get the pan off? What's the
best way to "jack" up the engine. Cherry picker (engine hoist) or is
there an easier way to do it with a floor jack?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 17:11:55 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Engine mystery
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I thought I had solved the mystery of what engine I have in my
1974 F100 XLT Ranger. The Identaplate on the driver side door has
been changed. (door was swapped out by a previous owner).
The VIN number has a Y coding for a 360 V8. The valve cover on the
driver's side says it's a 360 V8.

My dilema is that the Chilton's manual says it supposed to be a
2V intake manifold motor, 2 barrel carb with an EGR valve mounted
on the carb spacer and hooked up to a 2 port EGR TVS.

Well, the intake manifold is a 4V dual plane Ford manifold with a
4300 4 barrel Motorcraft carb. There is a 1" spacer but no provision
on the spacer for an EGR valve and there is no 2 port EGR TVS.
The manifold does completely surround the base entry hole for the
distributor. Also the distributor is points not electronic with a large
cap.

The truck was produced in January 1974, but the intake manifold has
the following numbers:
D5TE9425MB
307
5F30

Can anyone out there decode these numbers for me? Am I really looking
at a 1975 460 V8 intake manifold? or maybe a 390?
Will a 460 intake manifold even mount on 360 heads?

Seems to me that the "5F30" code maybe decode as 1975, June 30
And the D5 part of the manifold part number also refers to 1975.
Not sure about the rest...Please help!!!
(The truck does have the C6 auto transmission.)

Don

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 19:17:21 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Engine mystery
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

the only part of the coding i know is that the D means the 70's, and the =
5 makes it then 1975. cant help with the rest, but the 460 parts DO NOT =
intechange.

if you have a FE (360,390 etc.) the block is a Y-block meaning the sides =
of the block were the oil pan mounts is below the crank centerline a few =
inches. the 460 is not a Y block. also, you will see on FE engines =
that the valve cover covers part of the intake and the heads. the 460 =
covers only the heads. if you pull a valve cover, the FE uses shaft =
rockers, not studs or pedastal. i duobt from the text that it is a 460 =
at all. could be a 390, or any other FE with the 360 valave cover. i =
have seen many friends trucks/cars with 390, 428, and all parts like the =
valve cover and air cleaner say 360.

it's probably a 360, someone swapped in a good intake (probobly 390).

----------
From: Donald R. Screen[SMTP:dscreen ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Monday, July 07, 1997 6:11 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Engine mystery

I thought I had solved the mystery of what engine I have in my=20
1974 F100 XLT Ranger. The Identaplate on the driver side door has
been changed. (door was swapped out by a previous owner).=20
The VIN number has a Y coding for a 360 V8. The valve cover on the
driver's side says it's a 360 V8.

My dilema is that the Chilton's manual says it supposed to be a=20
2V intake manifold motor, 2 barrel carb with an EGR valve mounted=20
on the carb spacer and hooked up to a 2 port EGR TVS.

Well, the intake manifold is a 4V dual plane Ford manifold with a
4300 4 barrel Motorcraft carb. There is a 1" spacer but no provision
on the spacer for an EGR valve and there is no 2 port EGR TVS. =20
The manifold does completely surround the base entry hole for the
distributor. Also the distributor is points not electronic with a large
cap. =20

The truck was produced in January 1974, but the intake manifold has
the following numbers:
D5TE9425MB
307
5F30

Can anyone out there decode these numbers for me? Am I really looking
at a 1975 460 V8 intake manifold? or maybe a 390?
Will a 460 intake manifold even mount on 360 heads?

Seems to me that the "5F30" code maybe decode as 1975, June 30
And the D5 part of the manifold part number also refers to 1975.
Not sure about the rest...Please help!!!
(The truck does have the C6 auto transmission.)

Don


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 16:45:38 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Edelbrock swap question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>> Low restriction exhaust, Edelbrock carb, Performer intake (not fun since
>> the heads have to come off to put in on). As to dropping in a 390,
>> you can easily convert the 360 over to a 390 when its pulled, a whole
>> lot cheaper than buying a 390 core. The only difference is the crank.
>
>
>Ken,
> Why do you have to pull the heads to put an Edelbrock Performer
>intake manifold on a 360? I have a 1974 F100 with a 360 and was just
>thinking of swapping out the manifold and carb with Edelbrock stuff.
>
>Thanks,
> Don
>
>PS. I finally found the original engine decal buried under a few layers
>of Ford blue paint on the valve cover. Some very careful scrapping of
>paint revealed the 360 identification, spark plug recommendations, point
>gap. etc. Still missing an accurate vacuum diagram; however, Don
>Schall from Motor International sent me a 1973 F100 360 V8 diagram for
>free (Nice guy!). My VIN is F10YKT61624....Y coded for the 360.
>
>One other related question. I would like to replace the oil pan
>gasket. Do I need to jack up the engine to get the pan off? What's the
>best way to "jack" up the engine. Cherry picker (engine hoist) or is
>there an easier way to do it with a floor jack?
>
>

Don:

I think Ken meant, "mostly pull the heads apart" rather than off. You see,
on FE engines the intake forms about a third of what's under your valve
covers. The pushrods run thru the intake, so you have to remove the rocker
arm shafts and the rocker arms to get the thing out.

When you do this, be sure to get a shop manual (if you are in a jam email me
yr fax number and I'll fax the pages to you, complete with grease blotches)
cause if you don't remove the rocker shafts in the proper order, you can
easily bend them.

The hardest part of the job is actually lifting the manifold off--it is a
heavy sucker.

The other question is a tough one, as I have a 4x4 which basically means you
can have a picnic underneath there's so much room. But, if I think about it
a bit, I would probably say no, you have to lift the thing up with a hoist.
Hopefully somebody else can give you that short cut.

BTW how's your back seal? I had to change mine and it was a bugger. If
you're ambitious let me know.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4 360

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 20:40:07 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Edelbrock swap question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 11:23 PM 7/1/97 -0500, you wrote:
>> Low restriction exhaust, Edelbrock carb, Performer intake (not fun since
>> the heads have to come off to put in on). As to dropping in a 390,
>> you can easily convert the 360 over to a 390 when its pulled, a whole
>> lot cheaper than buying a 390 core. The only difference is the crank.
>
>
>Ken,
> Why do you have to pull the heads to put an Edelbrock Performer
>intake manifold on a 360? I have a 1974 F100 with a 360 and was just
>thinking of swapping out the manifold and carb with Edelbrock stuff.
>

Boy, you dug **far** back for that post!!! If you look later on (not
sure how much later) I said that I made an error. The heads do not
have to come off, the valve covers do. My valve covers are not OEM,
as I replaced them with chrome valve covers by the rocker arm under
the oil fill hole taps the metal so it has to have 2 valve cover
gaskets on each side to get enough clearance - otherwise it makes
a tapping noise like a bad lifter. Getting 2 gaskets to stick together
on the cover and keeping them aligned is not fun - but I suppose I
got them on correctly as its been several thousand miles and they
don't leak.

>Thanks,
> Don
>
>PS. I finally found the original engine decal buried under a few layers
>of Ford blue paint on the valve cover. Some very careful scrapping of
>paint revealed the 360 identification, spark plug recommendations, point
>gap. etc. Still missing an accurate vacuum diagram; however, Don
>Schall from Motor International sent me a 1973 F100 360 V8 diagram for
>free (Nice guy!). My VIN is F10YKT61624....Y coded for the 360.
>
>One other related question. I would like to replace the oil pan
>gasket. Do I need to jack up the engine to get the pan off?

Unfortunately, yes. There isn't enough clearance to get the pan past
the oil pump - at least on my 67. The 67 has about 1-2 inches of
clearance you. Unless you have 3-4 its going to be hard to get it
off although I suppose you could conceivably change the gasket without
removing the pan but I think this would be harder than jacking the engine
up.

>What's the
>best way to "jack" up the engine. Cherry picker (engine hoist) or is
>there an easier way to do it with a floor jack?
>

I know that with a 390 you can jack it up enough by the crank behind
the pulley. I believe the 360 crank can take the stress too but if
anyone out there knows this to be untrue please correct me. Loosen
the engine mounts and unbolt the tranny mount. A floor jack with
a 2x4 (to give the crank a soft surface with a little "give") works.
Don't take it up more than a couple of inches, give it the least amount
of clearance you can get away with as the engine is heavy (670lbs,
not including the intake and exhaust manifolds!) and thats alot of weight
on the crank (although they are notoriously strong). Fortunately it needs
to be jacked up on the front of the engine only. If you have access to a
hoist it would be easier but this method will work if you don't want to
spend money renting a hoist for a simple gasket replacement.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)
fordtrucks lofcom.com is the 1979 and older truck list,
fordtrucks80up lofcom.com is the 1980 and newer truck list..
(Email me if you're on the wrong list)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 20:50:45 -0400
From: Serian the Technomancer Archmage
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Transfer cases
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>So what did they put in a 1978 F150 Custom 4x4? I don't see anything
>on the front hubs where you can lock or unlock the hubs.

This is either the NP203 full time 4x4 transfer case, or it has
auto-locking hubs.
If the shift lever for your transfer case has "hi lock, hi, neutral, lo,
and lo lock" positions, it's a NP203. If it has "4H, 2H, N, 4L" positions,
it's most likely a NP205 with automatic hubs (though if this is the case,
it may very well be that the previous owner changed the front hubs to be
this way ... )

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 21:10:21 -0400
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Need help again:
Message-Id:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

I would just like to say thanks to the people who
responded to my last question on a power
steering upgrade for my 69 F-100 it was a big
help and by the way it's a 2 wd. Now I have another question, actually
two, number one
I have recently replaced the well worn 240
6 cyl. with a fresh 302 basically stock and
moved the shifter from the column to the floor
now I need a 4 spd. to go behind the 302
the factory three spd.aint gettin it. What I
would like to know is if there is a 4 spd. that
will go in without having to cut the driveshaft
or moving the trns. mount? Second question
does anyone know where to get a tube style
chrome grille for a 69 F-100? By the way the rearend is a 370.1 if that
makes a difference
for the first question. Thanks again for all of
the help.
Duke
"One fine 69"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 15:09:18 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: New Process Transfer Case
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Jerry & Lisa!
I wouldn't put to much trust in the build sheet. Mine said
my '73F100 was built in 1985. Well I know some model years
Vs built years don't match but that's usually by a month or
so.
As far as converting from full time to part time 4WD the
transfer case would need to be changed. I know I'll get it
for this but... Full time transfer case don't have a 2WD
option. People changed hubs to try and save on gas mileage,
but it doesn't with full time. 4WD on the fly would be
another thing, the transfer case would be disengaged but the
hubs wouldn't be, so the wheels would still be turning the
axle. You can slow down and put the selector in 4WD and not
have to get out and lock the hubs. Changing the hubs would
help save mpg on these.
If you unlock the hubs look at the front driveshaft with it
in 2WD have the other drive the truck a few feet. If the
driveshaft turns it's full time if it doesn't it's part
time.
The problem with part time is people living in Ontario Ca.
with no place to go off road wouldn't use their 4WD and the
grease sat in one place and got hard then I burn out my damn
front-end on my 69 Bronco... Oh, I mean they :)
If your trying to save on mpg and your transfer case is
full time you can drop your front drive shaft. just remember
don't use it, you lose it! Well that's what someone told me
anyway ;]
Later!
Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom
'77 Buick Estate Wagon


----------
> From: Jerry & Lisa
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: New Process Transfer Case
> Date: Monday, July 07, 1997 3:37 PM
>
> We have a '77 F150 Flareside. Our build sheet from FoMoCo
says our truck
> came with the optional full time 4x4 but we have Warn hubs
on the front.
> Does this mean someone converted to part time on this
truck?
>
>
> Gerald & Lisa
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
_______
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 15:23:45 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: New Process Transfer Case
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

>I have to find a better name for the locking hubs

Free Wheelin'Hubs. But Hunny Bunny, it's cold out Hubs. It
don't turn and the pavements dry Hubs. Which way's lock?
Hubs. Front-ends under water and someone has to get out and
lock the Hub Hubs.
Just tryin' ta help ya come up with a name Don ;]

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom
'77 Buick Estate Wagon


----------
> From: Don Grossman
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: New Process Transfer Case
> Date: Monday, July 07, 1997 6:44 AM
>
> reedg ns2.cetlink.net wrote:
>
> > So what did they put in a 1978 F150 Custom 4x4? I don't
see anything
> > on the front hubs where you can lock or unlock the hubs.
>
> The standard transfer case for 78 was the 205 part time
unit. Since you
> don't have any locking hubs on your hubs( I have to find a
better name
> for the locking hubs), your truck most likely came with
the 203 fulltime
> option. You should have either a little crome place over
the hubs
> acting like a dust cover. Inside is a solid unit that
keeps the front
> axle engaged with the hub.
>
> Crawl under your truck and look on the side of the
transfer case for an
> ID plate and it will tell you the model of transfercase.
>
> I am looking for a set of fulltime locking units by the
way. They are
> good to have in case you blow out a locking hub and still
need 4xdrive.
> --
> Don Grossman
> duckdon pacific.net
>
> It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......
>
>
> 63 Ford F-250 4x4
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
_______
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 22:33:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: JRFiero aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: F-1 VIN
Message-ID:

Original post at the end of this reply
F1R1MP15366
F1 - half ton
R - 239cid V8
1 - 1951
MP - Memphis, TN
15366 - sequential number
Without the production plate from the inside of the glovebox, the only
other info I can provide is that the truck was built after September 4, or
September 15, 1951. It's either because the book I'm using has both dates in
different pages, but on one of those dates Ford changed the VIN number
format. Prior to that date they were all continuations of the 1949 numbers,
which makes them hell to figure out.
Supposedly the VIN is also on the frame. Depending where you read it, its
either on the left frame rail above the steering box, or on the right frame
rail above the suspension. Exactly where either of those is, is your guess.
I read a recent post which said the numbers were approx 3/16" high, so they
shouldn't be too hard to find. However, I haven't found mine.
My '51 has the same predicament as yours - no production plate. Ford
Archives cannot provide information for individual vehicles of this age. You
can figure out the original color (up under the dash, etc), but other than
that, just about anything else may have been changed in 45 years.
I got a business card of a guy who makes repo production plates for show
cars. Don't have it handy - if you really need one (obviously, you'll have
to provide all the info), I can dig it up. I've decided that since my truck
is neither 100% stock nor show quality, I'm not going to bother. I did,
however, buy a new patent plate (the one on the firewall), which I may have
stamped. The old one was painted over, but the VIN is still legible.
Re oil line routing - the (optional) original oil filter is a bypass, or
part time, oil filter. Whatever oil feels like going through it, does.
There are procedures in modern flathead books for drilling, plugging, etc,
to plumb in a full flow oil filter, and I saw a setup to put a spin-on filter
inside the stock looking can. These all assume you're rebuilding the engine.
If I ever do, it seems like a great idea. If you're going the 100% stock or
show route, check into the history of the optional filters. I saw a Canadian
truck at Spring Carlisle with a filter about twice as long as mine, looked
like a real truck filter. Also available is a 'Beehive' filter can, finned
aluminum. I saw one for $200 at Carlisle, unpolished, and in conversation
with other vendors learned that was a reasonable (!) price. Not for me,
thank you. Polished ones are in the stratosphere. Thought it would be cool,
but, oh well.


In a message dated 97-07-07 00:26:00 EDT, you write:


of my f-1. Now I have another question. The only VIN number of any kind
on the truck is on a plate on the firewall, all I could get was the
stamped number of F1R1MP15366. Can anyone make sense of it ?? Thanks
again
BILL
>>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 18:46:53 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Edelbrock swap question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Howdy

Someone first wrote
> >One other related question. I would like to replace the oil pan
> >gasket. Do I need to jack up the engine to get the pan off?

Next Ken wrote
> Unfortunately, yes. There isn't enough clearance to get the pan past
> the oil pump - at least on my 67. The 67 has about 1-2 inches of
> clearance you. Unless you have 3-4 its going to be hard to get it
> off although I suppose you could conceivably change the gasket without
> removing the pan but I think this would be harder than jacking the engine
> up.

I just had to look at my truck just one time.

To drop the pan is

remove bolts, just nick each hedder, off the front axle housing, nothing
but ground.

I just might pull it off for kicks this weekend.

In the 61-64 there is no frame member under the engine, there is one in
front and one behind under the bellhousing. The engine is installed
with homemade engine mounts on each side of the engine and the two stock
mounts on the bellhousing for a total of four. I can pull the
transmission and not have to worry about the engine tilting back or
moving at all.

I just thought I would share that with you :-)

They just don't build them like they used to.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

The scene;

Bunch of NASA guys looking at TV monitor.

"Look, A ROCK!"


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 23:11:26 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Gas tank
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

One of the suppliers on our suppliers page got a inquiry
from a Bob Harris about a gas tank but cannot locate his
email address. Bob, if you're here, please email
Stu at radiator icanect.net.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~fordtrucks
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)
fordtrucks lofcom.com is the 1979 and older truck list,
fordtrucks80up lofcom.com is the 1980 and newer truck list..
(Email me if you're on the wrong list)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 19:15:10 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: New Process Transfer Case
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Jim Strigas wrote:
>
> Hi Jerry & Lisa!
> I wouldn't put to much trust in the build sheet. Mine said
> my '73F100 was built in 1985. Well I know some model years
> Vs built years don't match but that's usually by a month or
> so.

True on the build sheets. some times the factory screws up or ran out
of the correct part and to complete the truck on time they would use the
next available part and not have time to change the build sheet.
> As far as converting from full time to part time 4WD the
> transfer case would need to be changed. I know I'll get it
> for this but... Full time transfer case don't have a 2WD
> option. People changed hubs to try and save on gas mileage,
> but it doesn't with full time. 4WD on the fly would be
> another thing, the transfer case would be disengaged but the
> hubs wouldn't be, so the wheels would still be turning the
> axle. You can slow down and put the selector in 4WD and not
> have to get out and lock the hubs. Changing the hubs would
> help save mpg on these.

Not quite entirely true. Mile Marker and someother company ( the name
escapes me right now) does make a conversion kit for the 203. They
replace the tail shaft to the rear yoke. The rear shaft has a gear on
it that looks like the side gear from a diff housing(basicly thats what
is inside the 203 that allows the use of 4xdrive on hard surfaces).
This is replaced with a shaft that engages the center shaft in the 203
eliminating the differential gears. You have to also modify the
selector bar or whatever is on the outside of the case. I believe it is
just grinding off a tab on the bar which creates a 2HI position and
since the rear shaft is constantly engaged you will have power to the
rear wheels and no power to the front.

With this done you can easily convert to "Free Wheeling Hubs" (Thanks
Jim) and add whatever type of "Free Wheeling Hubs" you want.

I know I have an article on this somewhere. I can dig it up if someone
is interested in this.

All this would save on gas and wear on the front end parts.

> If you unlock the hubs look at the front driveshaft with it
> in 2WD have the other drive the truck a few feet. If the
> driveshaft turns it's full time if it doesn't it's part
> time.
> The problem with part time is people living in Ontario Ca.
> with no place to go off road wouldn't use their 4WD and the
> grease sat in one place and got hard then I burn out my damn
> front-end on my 69 Bronco... Oh, I mean they :)

Alway lock your front hubs or engage your 4xdrive one and a while to
keep the front end parts lubed. I pulled a set out of the wreckers that
was left sitting. Everything under the lube line was brand new,
everything above was rust city.

> If your trying to save on mpg and your transfer case is
> full time you can drop your front drive shaft. just remember
> don't use it, you lose it! Well that's what someone told me
> anyway ;]
> Later!
> Jim Strigas
> jstrigas worldnet.att.net
> '73 F100
> '83 XJ900RK
> '86 GL1200 Custom
> '77 Buick Estate Wagon

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

The scene;

Bunch of NASA guys looking at TV monitor.

"Look, A ROCK!"


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 22:54:27 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
To: fordnatics lists.best.com, fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Max torque rating of 3 spd tranny
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Does anyone know the max torque rating of the stock 3 speed manual that was
available on the '78 F150 w/302 as a column shift? It's cast iron. Came
on a truck with a 9" rear with 3.00:1 gears.

Thanks,

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
Ford Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes/fordarea.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 22:52:44 -0700
From: Randy Collins
To: "'FORDTRUCKS'"
Subject: Gas Tank Welding....


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