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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 104

Today's Topics:

1 or 2 spin? [TACYCBR aol.com ]
Re: 1 or 2 spin? [Don Grossman ]
Power Steering [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott]
Re: 1 or 2 spin? [Ken Payne ]
Re: Power Steering [Don Grossman ]
Re: FE Distributor Conversion From C [Don Grossman ]
56 colors? [David Neumayer ]
Re: Power Steering ["Jim Strigas"
Gas tank sealers [Don Lewis ]
Re: F-1 [Flathead52 aol.com ]
RE: 9 inch rear end [Kevin Kemmerer ]
Re: Gas tank sealers [spowel4 ibm.net ]
RE: 9 inch rear end [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: FE Distributor Conversion From C [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: Power Steering [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
RE: 9 inch rear end [Chris North ]
Re: Touch up paint... [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
RE: 9 inch rear end [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: '76 ford Highboy, Cab Mounts [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: '76 ford Highboy, Cab Mounts [Don Grossman ]
HELP [Steven Anderson
Re: Ford Truck Models [FOMOCONUT aol.com ]
Re: 56 colors? [bbprice ]
Re: Touch up paint... [bbprice ]

Administrivia:

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____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jul 1997 13:25:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: TACYCBR aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1 or 2 spin?
Message-ID:

This morning I went to spin my tires on my 78 F-100 and only one tire spun.
It did this when I went about 3/4 the way down. Just awhile ago I went down
1/2 way and both tires went up in a ball of smoke. I have a 9 inch 28 spline
with a 3.70 gear.I'm prety sure it is a limited-slip rear end.But why will
both somtimes spin off the start.


78 F-100 351C CJ
79 F-100 I-6 Granny Tran.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 10:08:35 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1 or 2 spin?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

TACYCBR aol.com wrote:
>
> This morning I went to spin my tires on my 78 F-100 and only one tire spun.
> It did this when I went about 3/4 the way down. Just awhile ago I went down
> 1/2 way and both tires went up in a ball of smoke. I have a 9 inch 28 spline
> with a 3.70 gear.I'm prety sure it is a limited-slip rear end.But why will
> both somtimes spin off the start.
>
> 78 F-100 351C CJ
> 79 F-100 I-6 Granny Tran.

It sounds to me like your limited-slip it getting quite limited in its
ability and might be time for a rebuild.

What Mustang did the 351 CJ come out of and what kinds of mods have you
done to it if any?

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......


63 Ford F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jul 1997 14:15:35 -0400
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Power Steering
Message-Id:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

I have a 1969 Ford F-100 that I want to convert
from manual steering to power steering is there a kit for this if so
where can I pick one up?
If not and I have to get the parts from the
junk yard what types of vehicles should I
be looking for and what years? Also what parts do I need to make this
switch? You may be able
to tell that the salvage yards in my area are not
much help eventhough they have Hollander
books they are too lazy to open them.
Thanks for any help.
Duke

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 15:11:19 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1 or 2 spin?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 01:25 PM 7/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>This morning I went to spin my tires on my 78 F-100 and only one tire spun.
>It did this when I went about 3/4 the way down. Just awhile ago I went down
>1/2 way and both tires went up in a ball of smoke. I have a 9 inch 28 spline
>with a 3.70 gear.I'm prety sure it is a limited-slip rear end.But why will
>both somtimes spin off the start.
>
>
>78 F-100 351C CJ
>79 F-100 I-6 Granny Tran.
>

Perhaps the plates are worn? Limited slip will allow only one
side to slip if enough torque is applied and its not a very tight
setup.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 11:16:47 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Power Steering
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

George Schott wrote:
>
> I have a 1969 Ford F-100 that I want to convert
> from manual steering to power steering is there a kit for this if so
> where can I pick one up?
> If not and I have to get the parts from the
> junk yard what types of vehicles should I
> be looking for and what years? Also what parts do I need to make this
> switch? You may be able
> to tell that the salvage yards in my area are not
> much help eventhough they have Hollander
> books they are too lazy to open them.
> Thanks for any help.
> Duke

First off you will need to find the proper brackets for mounting the
pump on your engine. You didn't say if you have a 2x or 4x but it
shouldn't make much of a difference you will just need to get the
steering box off or from the correct vehicle. The 2x and 4x boxes use a
different mounting pattern for the bolts attaching to the frame. For
the 4x you will need a box from a 77-79 I think should work. One the 2x
it might be something like75-79 but someone here will have better
information on the years that will interchange. The yank-it-yer'self
yards will have the best prices, if you don't mind doing the work
yourself, to save a bit of green.

I have always wondered where I can get one of those Hollander books?
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......


63 Ford F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 11:21:08 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE Distributor Conversion From Conventional to Breakerless
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Is there a difference between a 6 and an 8 cylinder brain box? All it
basicly does is fire the spark and the distributer sends it to the
cylinder. I have the wiring the box from a six sitting on the shelf and
all I would need is the distributer if the box and wiring will work.

Any thoughts
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......


63 Ford F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 15:28:39 -0800
From: David Neumayer
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 56 colors?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello!

I'm looking for the original paint schemes for 1956 Ford F100
pickups. Mine was yellow, but I'm not sure what color the rims, grille,
running light frames and running boards were. I have been looking for
quite some time. I would also love some more resources on the history
of the 53-56 F100's if you know of any. Thanks! I'm still filling and
sanding on mine, but I'll need to paint soon.

Dave Neumayer

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jul 1997 16:32:35 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: Power Steering
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

So. Cal Pickups makes a kit for '48 to '64 F1 & F100! They
still may be able to help! (714) 994-1400 It's in last
months Ford Truckin' Zine. Sez no cutting or welding!
Later!

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom
'77 Buick Estate Wagon


----------
> From: George Schott
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Power Steering
> Date: Saturday, July 05, 1997 11:15 AM
>
> I have a 1969 Ford F-100 that I want to convert
> from manual steering to power steering is there a kit for
this if so
> where can I pick one up?
> If not and I have to get the parts from the
> junk yard what types of vehicles should I
> be looking for and what years? Also what parts do I need
to make this
> switch? You may be able
> to tell that the salvage yards in my area are not
> much help eventhough they have Hollander
> books they are too lazy to open them.
> Thanks for any help.
> Duke
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
_______
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 19:16:14 -0500
From: Don Lewis
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Gas tank sealers
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I have a bad gas tank that I am going to try and rehab because I can't
afford the $200-$300 for a new stainless, plastic or NOS one. I will give
it an acid (not alkaline) bath at a radiator shop and then use one of those
sloshing liquid sealers - Bill Hirsch, POR-15, etc. Can anyone recommend a
brand or offer experience with any of these sealers?
Don Lewis
1946 Ford 1/2 ton

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jul 1997 20:27:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Flathead52 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: F-1
Message-ID:

Bill
I have a 1952 F-1 that has a 239 flathead v-8, the oil line for the feed
or the "out"
of the engine comes out behind the head on the drivers side right below the
oil sending unit. The return goe's into the block right above the oil pan
about half way back on the same side.Hope this helps.


Tom Grover
1952 F-1




------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jul 1997 20:39:22 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 9 inch rear end
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

28 or 31 spline? i know of no way to tell from the outside. if your 6 =
cyl was orderd with the lim. slip then i would assume that the limited =
slips are all 31 spline. does anyone know for sure if this is the case?

i have a 77 6cyl parts truck here that has the smaller of the 3 axle =
housings, open diff.

FYI: a 9" is considered to be almost as strong (31T) as the dana 60, =
but is alot lighter and uses less horsepower to turn, and one carrier =
can use any gear ratio (no gear splits).
the aftermarket supports 35T spline axles and parts for the 9" and they =
are much stronger than the 31T.
the biggest weakness to a 9" seems to be the axle housing itself, not =
the differential according to most shops i have talked to.
some jeep builders are using the 9" in the front and back for serious =
rock crawling - i think currie enterprises makes one for the front.

sleddog

----------
From: sdelanty sonic.net[SMTP:sdelanty sonic.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 1997 1:55 AM
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: RE: 9 inch rear end


>sounds like one to me. the snout has a set of bolts that bolt the =3D
>pinion section to the carrier. don't know much about mavericks, but it =
=3D
>sounds like a 9" to me.
>
>9 inchers where made in several "sizes". the lighter cars had a =
lighter =3D
>duty welded housing and 28(i think) spline axles. there was a beefier =
=3D
>hnousing, and one even beefier (with 31t spline) wich was used in the =
=3D
>70's 1/2 ton v8 trucks and some luxury cars,-the 6 cyl truck used to =
=3D
>lighter axle.=20

I'll add something here. My '71 F100 was a 6 cyl truck, but came with
a 31-spline limited slip 9". I'm sure the motor and axle were =
origional,
they agree with the door tag info...
The 31-spline has allegedly got a 3750lb rating instead of the 3200 or =
3400lb
of the 28-spline.(according to the auto parts books)
It also uses a larger wheel bearing which is about $80 instead of the =
$22=20
bearing that the 28-spline uses. Sigh.

>on the ouside, the difference in these 3 is measureable =3D
>by the length that the center weldment runs out before the round axle =
=3D
>tube is welded on.

Hmm, that's interesting. I assume the heavier duty units are longer.
(center section wider)
Is this a reliable way to tell a 31-spline from a 28-spline HD unit?
Gotta start watchin at the wreckers..

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jul 97 20:23:04 -0400
From: spowel4 ibm.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gas tank sealers
Message-Id:

In , on 07/05/97
at 07:16 PM, Don Lewis said:

>I have a bad gas tank that I am going to try and rehab because I can't
>afford the $200-$300 for a new stainless, plastic or NOS one. I will give
>it an acid (not alkaline) bath at a radiator shop and then use one of
>those sloshing liquid sealers - Bill Hirsch, POR-15, etc. Can anyone
>recommend a brand or offer experience with any of these sealers?
>Don Lewis
>1946 Ford 1/2 ton


>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

I've used the POR-15 in a Jeep tank, and it's wonderful stuff. Never had
any more problems out of that gas tank.

--
-----------------------------------------------------------
spowel4 ibm.net
-----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 20:29:03 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: 9 inch rear end
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> Hmm, that's interesting. I assume the heavier duty units are longer.
> (center section wider)
> Is this a reliable way to tell a 31-spline from a 28-spline HD unit?
> Gotta start watchin at the wreckers..
>
>Happy motoring,
>
> Steve Delanty
>
> 1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed
>
One thing to look for in 9 inch Fords: Look at the cover, which is cast.
There might be a big "N" cast into it. If so, this rearend is a strong one;
that means Nodular, meaning something like a better casting ( I am not a
metallurgist). These are definitely the stronger rearends and are more
valuable than the ones without the "N" cast onto them.

Oh yeah, by the way, here's how you tell what kind of Dana you have: get a
wire brush and clean off the backside (not the yoke side,the other one).
Somewhere towards the bottom you will find a 44, or a 60, or a 70 cast into
it. This tells you what kind of Dana it is, easily. There are more numbers
but I'm not sure what they mean. Anybody know?

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4, 44f, 60r

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 20:47:32 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE Distributor Conversion From Conventional to Breakerless
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Is there a difference between a 6 and an 8 cylinder brain box? All it
>basicly does is fire the spark and the distributer sends it to the
>cylinder. I have the wiring the box from a six sitting on the shelf and
>all I would need is the distributer if the box and wiring will work.
>
>Any thoughts
>--
>Don Grossman
>duckdon pacific.net
>
>It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......
>

Only one question, how old is the box? If you have any doubts about it go
to Wal Mart and buy a WEST box (brand new) for around 25 bucks or so. Really.

Provided the box on your shelf is 76 or so, without all the altitude
compensator crud on it (should have 2 dist wires, 2 coil, one power, and one
ground/neutral safety switch), the box is exactly the same. All it does is
senses the magnetic field created by the distributor, and grounds the coil.
Go to the wreckers and get the wiring harness from the dist and the coil all
the way back to the box, and get the coil with the posts for the white
connector/condenser as well. Anything will do from the mid 70s, maverick,
ltd, marquis, 75 truck with 302, etc. Or get the harness from the wrecker
and the coil from wal mart too.

Apparently you can buy a rebilt dist from the jobber for cheap. Check the
list or maybe somebody who did that recently can tell you which one to buy.
You should also buy the spacer and the wide cap with posts instead of
sockets, so that you can use the 8.5 mm wires. You cd buy these wires at
wal mart too, they're cheap there, get some for a 351 and they'll be fine.

This is the single best performance thing you can change on your truck for
so cheap. It really smooths out your performance.

BTW, FE engines make a fair bit of blowby. Blowby is hot ignited gases
blowing into the crankcase. So change your oil often, in summer you cd use
20/50 with no problem, and don't go crazy on synthetic oil cuz of the
crudding. Use decent cheap oil (quaker state is about a buck a quart or so)
and change it often.

If you have any questions about the actual conversion once you go to do it,
feel free to email me and I'll walk ya thru it. I'm out tomorrow all day
but will be back in tomorrow nite.



marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71f250 4x4, electronic ignition

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 20:48:49 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Power Steering
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>George Schott wrote:
>>
>> I have a 1969 Ford F-100 that I want to convert
>> from manual steering to power steering is there a kit for this if so
>> where can I pick one up?
>> If not and I have to get the parts from the
>> junk yard what types of vehicles should I
>> be looking for and what years? Also what parts do I need to make this
>> switch? You may be able
>> to tell that the salvage yards in my area are not
>> much help eventhough they have Hollander
>> books they are too lazy to open them.
>> Thanks for any help.
>> Duke
>
>First off you will need to find the proper brackets for mounting the
>pump on your engine. You didn't say if you have a 2x or 4x but it
>shouldn't make much of a difference you will just need to get the
>steering box off or from the correct vehicle. The 2x and 4x boxes use a
>different mounting pattern for the bolts attaching to the frame. For
>the 4x you will need a box from a 77-79 I think should work. One the 2x
>it might be something like75-79 but someone here will have better
>information on the years that will interchange. The yank-it-yer'self
>yards will have the best prices, if you don't mind doing the work
>yourself, to save a bit of green.
>

Getting a little tired of the "Armstrong" power steering, are ya? heh, heh

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jul 1997 23:01:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris North
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: 9 inch rear end
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>One thing to look for in 9 inch Fords: Look at the cover, which is cast.
>There might be a big "N" cast into it. If so, this rearend is a strong one;
>that means Nodular, meaning something like a better casting ( I am not a
>metallurgist). These are definitely the stronger rearends and are more
>valuable than the ones without the "N" cast onto them.
>

The "N" does stand for Nodular. Actually nodular cast iron. Also known as
ductile iron. There are differences in the chemical composition so that the
carbon in the iron forms nodules, or rosettes, instead of flakes (which is
what forms in standard grey cast iron). While the tensile strength (or
hardness) of the two types are similar (assuming similar heat treatments),
the nodular iron is much more tolerant of shock, or impact, loading.

chris north

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 20:57:02 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Touch up paint...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>My truck is red and my local paint shop wants $30 to color match and then
>can't even guarantee a close enough match to my paint! Plus they say it
>could cost anywhere from $20 to $120 for a pint of paint! The guys
>suggested getting some close spray paint, spray it in the cap, get a
>toothpick and fill in the scratches. Then buff when dry, to "even out" the
>paint or "blend it in".
>
> Is there any better ways? I got time here cause my mail delayed my
>question about my cab mounts so now I have to wait till after they get
>fixed....
>
>Thank You,
> Terry Sherman
> terbear discover-net.net
>

Sure. You didn't say if you want to repaint a fender or just a coupla
scratches but I assume the latter. I assume it's the original paint color.
If so, you shud be able to get a match from your friendly Ford dealer.
There shud be a tag on the driver's door rear pillar from the factory,
containing, among other things, your VIN and a number under the heading,
"Color". Ask your dealer if they have one of those little bottles (looks
like a mascara bottle) of the same color. Then you can go to work. Apply
the paint a few times until the scratch is filled to the same level as the
rest of your paint. Then take some rubbing compound and CAREFULLY buff the
excess back down to the level of your normal paint.

BTW you may want to double-check this procedure with one of the body guys at
your local Ford dealer. If your truck is decent, they will probably be more
than happy to give you a little advice. Try to single out the older guy
who's been there for a long time and remembers your truck when it was new,
or the young dude who is souping up and repainting some choice mustang or
econoline pickup or something.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4, few too many defects for touch-up paint

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 21:02:11 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: 9 inch rear end
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>28 or 31 spline? i know of no way to tell from the outside. if your 6 cyl
was orderd with the lim. slip then i would assume that the limited slips are
all 31 spline. does anyone know for sure if this is the case?
>
>i have a 77 6cyl parts truck here that has the smaller of the 3 axle
housings, open diff.
>
>FYI: a 9" is considered to be almost as strong (31T) as the dana 60, but
is alot lighter and uses less horsepower to turn, and one carrier can use
any gear ratio (no gear splits).
>the aftermarket supports 35T spline axles and parts for the 9" and they are
much stronger than the 31T.
>the biggest weakness to a 9" seems to be the axle housing itself, not the
differential according to most shops i have talked to.
>some jeep builders are using the 9" in the front and back for serious rock
crawling - i think currie enterprises makes one for the front.
>
>sleddog
>

Yes, you're right there. The big advantage of the Dana is that it's a
full-floater. I figured out what the N means and all that. The N means the
housing is high-nodular iron, making it much stronger. Seems early 9" axles
were fairly brittle. The aftermarketeers weld additional metal onto the
axles to make them even stronger. If you go for a replacement 9" housing,
look for one with the N cast into the cover.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 21:05:10 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '76 ford Highboy, Cab Mounts
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>$250.00 to call 715? Where the hell's that fishin' hole Boy!
>Bangladesh? Why do you already have the parts an appointment
>at a body shop! Don't sound like your looking for
>information on how to install them so I'll go with...
>
>Hey Sherm! I don't think that's a do it yourself kind of
>job! I'd take it to a body shop if I was you!
>
>Jim Strigas
>jstrigas worldnet.att.net
>'73 F100
>'83 XJ900RK
>'86 GL1200 Custom
>'77 Buick Estate Wagon


Maybe that's why the cab mounts rusted, all that driving across the ocean
and back..

8^)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 21:03:35 +0000
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '76 ford Highboy, Cab Mounts
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Terry R Sherman wrote:
>
> The front cab mounts colapsed on me truck! I got new replacement parts,
> but how do I repair it? Any ideas, I have an appointment for monday at a
> body shop, they estimated $250 but I think it will increase. Is this to
> expensive? PLEASE HELP!
> Thank You,
> Terry Sherman
> terbear discover-net.net

Are you talking about the metal supports on the frame or just the little
rubber jobs? Either one of these you could do your self. If it is the
steel part of the cab that let go on you, you will be better off letting
the shop go ahead and do the job for $250.

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

It's hard to do 90 on a speed limit budget.......


63 Ford F-250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 23:44:58 -0700
From: Steven Anderson
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: HELP
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

It has always been my dream to build my own street rod with a 1952-1956
Ford Pick-up. I am in Moscow, Idaho, dose anyone in the area know where
I can pick one up for five to six hundred.

Thank You

Steve Anderson
ande6602 uidaho.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Jul 1997 04:03:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: FOMOCONUT aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ford Truck Models
Message-ID:

Will be on the lookout for you.... I travel extensivly including overseas
where I find many kits no longer found here in in the good ole USA....and
please if anyone or you know of a model of a 96 F-350 4X4... PLEASE let me
know.....THANX...

SEMPER FORD

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jul 1997 08:33:07 -0400
From: bbprice
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 56 colors?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

David Neumayer wrote:

> Hello!
>
> I'm looking for the original paint schemes for 1956 Ford F100
> pickups. Mine was yellow, but I'm not sure what color the rims,
> grille,
> running light frames and running boards were. I have been looking
> for
> quite some time. I would also love some more resources on the history
>
> of the 53-56 F100's if you know of any. Thanks! I'm still filling
> and
> sanding on mine, but I'll need to paint soon.
>
> Dave Neumayer
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
> to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

1956 Standard Commercial Colors were:
Body
Raven Black
Diamond Blue
Nocturne Blue
Meadowmist Green
Meadow Green
Platinum Gray
Goldenrod Yellow
Vermilion

Wheels and Grille were Snowshoe White, the body color was applied to the
running boards.
A two-tone option was available on Custom Cab Models which consisted of
a Snowshoe White roof and upper back panel over any body color.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jul 1997 08:38:49 -0400
From: bbprice
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Touch up paint...
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Terry R Sherman wrote:

> My truck is red and my local paint shop wants $30 to color match and
> then
> can't even guarantee a close enough match to my paint! Plus they say
> it
> could cost anywhere from $20 to $120 for a pint of paint! The guys....

---

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