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fordtrucks-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 101

Today's Topics:

RE: Brake Bleeding ["Payne, Kenneth"
RE: Brake Bleeding ["Payne, Kenneth"
RE: 9 inch rear end [Kevin Kemmerer ]
RE: 9 inch rear end [Kevin Kemmerer ]
Re: Brake Bleeding ["Jim" ]
Re: FE Distributor Conversion From C [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: It's pumpkin season [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: It's pumpkin season [sdelanty sonic.net ]
F-1 [billjhs ]
Re: '97 Trucks [MMBTV aol.com ]
RE: 9 inch rear end [DC Beatty
RE: [Fwd: WIX filters trucks] [Keith Srb ]
RE: 9 inch rear end [Chris North ]
Heartstopping brake failure... ["chita" ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 08:44:54 -0400
From: "Payne, Kenneth"
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Brake Bleeding
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain

I agree on this one. I always bleed from the wheels. I use one of
those
$10 one man bleeder tools, even though I have my wife depress the
peddle while I watch the bleeder tool from under the truck. One good
thing to do if you've just switched it over and you'll bleeding it:
completely
bleed out all the old fluid while you're at it. Don't mix DOT 4 & DOT 3
though as they aren't compatible.

FYI: This is Ken Payne (admin) at my new work address. They messed
up and put Kevin in my email address (duh). I'll start posting during
the
day again from my old address as soon as I can get to my personal email
account from work (did this at my old job).


> ----------
> From: DC Beatty[SMTP:104452.1362 CompuServe.COM]
> Sent: Thursday, July 03, 1997 12:10 AM
> To: 'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'
> Subject: RE: Brake Bleeding
>
> I am no genius, but I have never messed with the proportioning valve
> when
> bleeding brakes. I just do 'em all at the wheels until no bubbles come
> out. It
> works every time. I did massive brake work on a 1976 F-250 with heavy
> duty front
> disks and never messed with this valve. Does anybody know why Haynes
> would put
> this step into their instructions? Is there something particular to
> the '77 4x?
>
> Have you guys tried to bleed them without messing with the
> proportioning valve?
> What does the pedal feel like with the system all closed up?
>
> Definitely be very careful with this. Don't drive the truck until you
> are sure
> it's fixed.
>
> DC Beatty
> 1967 F-100 352
> 1974 Maverick 302
>
>
> ----------
> From: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 1997 9:14 PM
> To: INTERNET:FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
> Subject: Brake Bleeding
>
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> Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 23:10:54 -0700
> From: Gerald & Lisa
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; I)
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>
> Anybody in Ford Truck land..... we are trying to bleed our brake lines
>
> in our '77 F150 (4x4) after a hopefully successful disk brake rotor
> replacement. The Haynes manual says to open the bleeder rod on the
> pressure differential valve first. Than hook up the hose to the
> bleeder
> valve and have the assistant push the brake. We did the rear brakes,
> but
> when we try to bleed the two front brakes, nothing comes out of the
> hose
> air or fluid. Please help... Thanks.
>
> Jerry & Lisa
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
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>
>
>
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> to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
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>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 09:47:17 -0400
From: "Payne, Kenneth"
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Brake Bleeding
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain

> ----------
> From: Gerald & Lisa[SMTP:hoel coastalnet.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 03, 1997 10:32 AM
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
>
> My husband originally thought he knew what he was doing so he just
> hooked the bleeder hose up and had me working the brake pedal. This
> produced about one small air bubble for every 2 pumps of the pedal.
> When
> this method appeared to get us nowhere fast, we pulled out the Haynes.
> It says that you open the bleeder rod on the pressure differential
> valve
> first to allow fluid to flow to the calipers....The Haynes also says
> that you work with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and
> work
> your way forward. After working on this all night last night, we came
> to
> the conclusion that our brake lines are clogged.
>
> We noticed when we added fluid to the MC that it became murky.
> Apparently whoever has owned this truck before us has not bothered to
> maintain it at all...too bad. Anyway, now it looks like we will have
> to
> purge the brake system. Anybody have any ideas? What are the brake
> lines
> made of? Can we clean the MC or should we purchase a
> new/remanufactured
> one? Do we need new lines or can they be cleaned?
>
If you're braking ok, I wouldn't really worry about the
master cylinder. However, a rebuilt unit is expensive
(20-30 bucks) so its cheap insurance and only takes about
10-20 minutes to change. Brake lines are made of steel and
unless they show swells, kinks, fractures or rust I wouldn't
change them. You can get pre-bent tubing but installing it
is still a pain - unbent tubing is not fun and requires proper
tools. The method I use to clean out a brake system is to
keep bleeding the system at each wheel, all the while adding
fresh fluid to the master cylinder, until completely clear/clean
fluid starts coming out of each bleeder nipple. (Hint, try to
take out as much of the existing fluid from the master cylinder
and put in clean fluid before starting this procedure as it will
reduce the amount of time it takes to purge the system) Once
clean fluid appears, give one or two extra pumps of the peddle
just to be sure. Once sure fire method is to completely drain
the existing fluid from all the wheels until the system has
virtually no fluid. Then start with the above purging procedure.


> Thanks for all the input you guys have given on our wheel/grind and
> brake bleeding posts. Your advice has continually steered us in the
> right direction.
>
> Jerry & Lisa
> '77 F150 Flareside 4x4
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
> to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 09:58:26 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 9 inch rear end
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

no, no benifits to the dana 44 as a rear axle. but there are alot of jeep builders that like to use them. they are getting scarce now.

sleddog

----------
From: Chris North[SMTP:chrisn infohwy.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 1997 8:23 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 9 inch rear end

>I have a Dana 3.54:1 limited slip diff. in my truck. Is this considered a 9"?
>Also, isn't this also named a "spicer 44" or something? How does a person
>distinguish a 9" from looking at it?
>
>Thanks. I've been real curious about this for a long time.
>

Not wanting to falme anybody, but...

A Ford 9" is very easy to identify. No bolt on acess plate on the back.
The differential 'pumpkin' bolts in from the front. Chrysler also used
this design on their 8 3/4 rear end, but they won't bolt right into a
chubbie truck, so you don't hear much about them.

The Dana uses a design similar to the GM rear ends. An access plate that
bolts onto the back. I believe Spicer is the axle division of Dana Power
Transmission Corp (or something like that). The Spicer 44 I have only
heard about, having 5 bolt axles instead of the 8 bolt axles on the 60 and
70 models used on 3/4 ton and up. I have heard that these were used on
both Fords and Dodges in the early 60's.

I have always thought that the Ford 9" was better than the Spicer 44
because you could change out 'pumpkins' (and, consequently, gear ratios) in
about 30 minutes without taking the rearend out of the truck. With the
Spicer 44, the differential has to be 'set' into the housing and shimmed up
to get the proper engagement of the pinion and ring gears. There may be
benifits to the Spicer 44 I do not know about, though.

chris north



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 09:55:55 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 9 inch rear end
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

a ford 9" is a welded steel housing with a center section (diferential) =
that is removable from the front. once out a close look at the carrier =
(center section or third member) shows adjusting nuts for the ring =
gear/pinion adjustment instead of shims as most axles have.
the 9" is a ford axle only. a dana axle like the dana 44, dana 60, dana =
70, dana 80 are made by dana and also called spicer axles. all of these =
axles are castings with pressed or weleded on axle tubes and a cover =
plate on the rear of the axle (the nine inch has no cover plate), you =
know, the one many people buy a crome one and bolt it on.
the dana has the size on the snout. the nine inch was for the 1/2 ton =
trucks and the dana 44 was is the front of the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. =
dana 60 was used in the 3/4 ton trucks in the front of one tons, and the =
70 and 80 found thier way into one tons. if you look at a nine inch, it =
does not have round axle tubes but the dana axles do. also the dana 60 =
and larger rear axles are genereally full floater axles.

sleddog

----------
From: DC Beatty[SMTP:104452.1362 CompuServe.COM]
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 1997 12:10 AM
To: 'FORD TRUCKS'
Subject: 9 inch rear end

I have a Dana 3.54:1 limited slip diff. in my truck. Is this considered =
a 9"?
Also, isn't this also named a "spicer 44" or something? How does a =
person
distinguish a 9" from looking at it?=20

Thanks. I've been real curious about this for a long time.

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302


____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 07:08:12 -0700
From: "Jim"
To:
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Jerry & Lisa
If the line is clogged when you press on the brake peddle
with the bleeder open the peddle will not go to the floor. I
doubt it's clogged unless it's crimped. lots of pressure in
there so it would blow out anything that would be blocking
it. I think you have a bleeder problem. Take it out and
press gently on the peddle. Do you have a big mess? You've
found the problem. You don't have a mess? Remove the brake
line and stick it in a clean glass jar. Press the peddle
gently, does fluid come out? Air? Nothing? If still nothing
go farther up the line and brake the connection until you
find fluid. You may have a bad MC, or you may be right and
it's clogged! I do mine myself by taking a large clean glass
jar and a clear weighted line I connect to the bleeder and
submerge in brake fluid in the jar. When I press the brake
peddle it pushes the air out, let it up sucks the brake
fluid back in! I can't yell up,up,down,down,up,up,down,down,
just makes me feel silly! Don't forget to check the MC's
well, if it goes dry you will have a whole lot of air in
them there lines! Leave MC's lid off and check it often! Who
ever is pushing the peddle check the well! Don't make the
person under the truck crawl out to do it!
I'll put my money on the bleeder's clogged and there's air
in the line so it can't clean out the bleeder. Everything
you've described sounds like your doing it right. Clean
brake components with brake fluid only! Oops to late Oh
well! Rise brake components with brake fluid only :) Good
luck, let us know what the problem turns out to be!

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom
'77 Buick Estate Wagon


----------
> From: Gerald & Lisa
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
> Date: Thursday, July 03, 1997 7:32 AM
>
> My husband originally thought he knew what he was doing so
he just
> hooked the bleeder hose up and had me working the brake
pedal. This
> produced about one small air bubble for every 2 pumps of
the pedal. When
> this method appeared to get us nowhere fast, we pulled out
the Haynes.
> It says that you open the bleeder rod on the pressure
differential valve
> first to allow fluid to flow to the calipers....The Haynes
also says
> that you work with the wheel furthest from the master
cylinder and work
> your way forward. After working on this all night last
night, we came to
> the conclusion that our brake lines are clogged.
>
> We noticed when we added fluid to the MC that it became
murky.
> Apparently whoever has owned this truck before us has not
bothered to
> maintain it at all...too bad. Anyway, now it looks like we
will have to
> purge the brake system. Anybody have any ideas? What are
the brake lines
> made of? Can we clean the MC or should we purchase a
new/remanufactured
> one? Do we need new lines or can they be cleaned?
>
> Thanks for all the input you guys have given on our
wheel/grind and
> brake bleeding posts. Your advice has continually steered
us in the
> right direction.
>
> Jerry & Lisa
> '77 F150 Flareside 4x4
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
_______
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use:
kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 09:19:24 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE Distributor Conversion From Conventional to Breakerless
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>As best I can tell, on my 1966 FE (352/390), if I replace my
>conventional breaker point type distributor with a 1976 breakerless
>distributor, I need add only an ignition module and appropriate
>connectors. Existing wiring looks like it will support this setup,
>spark plugs could be changed to wider gap, mixture could be leaned more,
>and the coil be replaced with to increase voltage to the plugs. The
>goal is reduced maintenance, tighter emissions control, and some
>improvement in mileage. Does this seem reasonable or have I overlooked
>something?

Seems reasonable...

When I converted my '71 FE390, I got a rebuilt duraspark dist from the parts
store for
about $40, the duraspark "box" and all necessary connectors came from the
wreckers off a '80 econoline van with a duraspark 302.
While You are at the wreckers, grab a *large diameter* dist cap, rotor and
cap adaptor from a 302, it fits right on an FE dist and lets You run bigger
cap with 8.5mm wires.
The output of the duraspark dist also drives an MSD6 directly.. (-:

I don't miss changing points one bit!

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 09:19:27 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: It's pumpkin season
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>sdelanty sonic.net wrote:
>>
>> My 31-spline limited-slip 9" rearaxle is starting to quietly ask for help,
>> and the limited slip clutches have been gone for awhile now so I think it's
>> about time to pull the pumpkin out and rebuild it.
>>
>> Has anyone out there done this lately?

Daver replies:

>I generally pay a good shop to do this because they can set the lash and
>preload the crush sleeve better than I.

Naw, I can't pay a shop to do it... It's against my religion.
I pay a shop to fix flat tires, but that's about it.
I trust Me to work on my vehicles, but few else.
Besides, I like to know how...

I've got a dial indicator with mag base, a solvent tank, and some
machinist's blue
dye and a 9" don't look like brain surgery.

What's this here "crush sleeve" You speak of? I don't see it in my 'sploded
diagram.

Happy motoring,


Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 09:19:30 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: It's pumpkin season
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>> My 31-spline limited-slip 9" rearaxle is starting to quietly ask for help,
>>and the limited slip clutches have been gone for awhile now so I think =
>>it's about time to pull the pumpkin out and rebuild it.

Kevin replies,

>setting up the ring and gear contact =
>patch is esy just use the grease that is meant for this job, normal =
>grease won't show a true contact patch.

I've got some machinist's blue dye.

>i can't describe what the patch =
>should look like a picture here would be worth 1,000 e-mails.

Yeah, I kinda know what it looks like. I've done some industrial gear boxes
before.
I've seen books with photos of correct and incorrect contact patterns.
I'll probably try and find a book or service manual that covers 9" rebuild.

Anyone recommend a book that's easy to find?

>all parts are easily available and fairly cheap.

I like to hear that...

>a dial indicator and base helps, but is not necassary.

I've got a good one with magnetic base. (-:

>it isn't a pretty site to see the pinion on the ground attached to the
drive shaft..

Oww! That's one of those things that's funny to see, when it happens
to *someone else*!

Thanks for the info,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 23:15:10 -0400
From: billjhs
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: F-1
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello everyone,

I am the proud owner of a 1951 FOrd f-1 that was just delivered to me on
Monday nite.
I have found a few problems with the truck, like it doesn't run too
good(bad miss) and there isn't any oil filter. ( I found it in a box of
parts on the floor). Does anyone know where the lines for the oil filter
went. I have the service manual for the truck, but it doesn't go into
much detail about where everything is. Also, could anyone recommend a
good book that goes into detail about the F-1 and restoring it. I have
the book "How to Restore your Ford Truck" but it doesn't go into great
detail either. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
A Happy Ford Truck owner

Bill Hendrickson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 14:28:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: MMBTV aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '97 Trucks
Message-ID:

Liked the '97 design, the ride, the quiteness in the cab, etc.
but I am not so sure about the 4.9 liter V8.
Is it anything to be worried about ?

------------------------------

Date: 03 Jul 97 16:22:25 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: 9 inch rear end
Message-ID:

So I read this. Then I look under my crusty old Maverick to find>>
no rear access plate on the rear end, just a weld
a set of bolts holding the removable center section to the front of the
diff.
another set of bolts holding what looks to be the whole front half of the
diff. on

Could it be that I have a 9" rear end in my ugly Maverick? It's all stock, 1974
4-door with a 302/C4. Have my ignorance and I owned one of these sought-after
items all this time?

Thanks, and thanks for all the knowledge.
DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

a ford 9" is a welded steel housing with a center section (diferential) that is
removable from the front. once out a close look at the carrier (center section
or third member) shows adjusting nuts for the ring gear/pinion adjustment
instead of shims as most axles have.
the 9" is a ford axle only. a dana axle like the dana 44, dana 60, dana 70,
dana 80 are made by dana and also called spicer axles. all of these axles are
castings with pressed or weleded on axle tubes and a cover plate on the rear of
the axle (the nine inch has no cover plate), you know, the one many people buy a
crome one and bolt it on.
the dana has the size on the snout. the nine inch was for the 1/2 ton trucks
and the dana 44 was is the front of the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. dana 60 was
used in the 3/4 ton trucks in the front of one tons, and the 70 and 80 found
thier way into one tons. if you look at a nine inch, it does not have round
axle tubes but the dana axles do. also the dana 60 and larger rear axles are
genereally full floater axles.

sleddog

----------
From: DC Beatty[SMTP:104452.1362 CompuServe.COM]
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 1997 12:10 AM
To: 'FORD TRUCKS'
Subject: 9 inch rear end

I have a Dana 3.54:1 limited slip diff. in my truck. Is this considered a 9"?
Also, isn't this also named a "spicer 44" or something? How does a person
distinguish a 9" from looking at it?

Thanks. I've been real curious about this for a long time.

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 13:46:19 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: [Fwd: WIX filters trucks]
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Would just like to say Thank You to everyone who contributed some information
on finding the Wix Filter Truck. After calling all of the Wix dealers around
here, and coming up empty, I called the people at Wix and talked to a very nice
lady there. She quoted me a price for the Pickup, Trailer and the Mustang that
sits on the trailer, and gave me an address to send the money to so I could buy
this set direct from them.

I think I may have to switch to Wix Filters!

Keith Srb
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


-----Original Message-----
From: Don Grossman [SMTP:duckdon pacific.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 1997 11:18 AM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: [Fwd: WIX filters trucks]

DC Beatty wrote:
> I talked to the guy at the parts store and he still has some. He said > the
sales
> rep told him that even though the promotion is expired, they will > continue
to
> send out the trailer/car and honor the coupons. He also mentioned that > he
had
> seen them honor other promotions a year or more after the expiration > date.
>
> So, I guess if anyone is interested they can be found. I found at > least
three
> without even trying. I may have to buy one.
>
> DC Beatty
> 1967 F-100 352
> 1974 Maverick 302




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 18:55:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris North
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Cc: 104452.1362 CompuServe.COM
Subject: RE: 9 inch rear end
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Not wanting to flame anybody, but...

Probably an 8".

>So I read this. Then I look under my crusty old Maverick to find>>
> no rear access plate on the rear end, just a weld
> a set of bolts holding the removable center section to the front of the
>diff.
> another set of bolts holding what looks to be the whole front half
>of the
>diff. on
>
>Could it be that I have a 9" rear end in my ugly Maverick? It's all stock,
>1974
>4-door with a 302/C4. Have my ignorance and I owned one of these sought-after
>items all this time?
>
>Thanks, and thanks for all the knowledge.
>DC Beatty
>1967 F-100 352
>1974 Maverick 302
>
>a ford 9" is a welded steel housing with a center section (diferential)
>that is
>removable from the front. once out a close look at the carrier (center
>section
>or third member) shows adjusting nuts for the ring gear/pinion adjustment
>instead of shims as most axles have.
>the 9" is a ford axle only. a dana axle like the dana 44, dana 60, dana 70,
>dana 80 are made by dana and also called spicer axles. all of these axles are
>castings with pressed or weleded on axle tubes and a cover plate on the
>rear of
>the axle (the nine inch has no cover plate), you know, the one many people
>buy a
>crome one and bolt it on.
>the dana has the size on the snout. the nine inch was for the 1/2 ton trucks
>and the dana 44 was is the front of the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. dana 60 was
>used in the 3/4 ton trucks in the front of one tons, and the 70 and 80 found
>thier way into one tons. if you look at a nine inch, it does not have round
>axle tubes but the dana axles do. also the dana 60 and larger rear axles are
>genereally full floater axles.
>
>sleddog
>
>----------
>From: DC Beatty[SMTP:104452.1362 CompuServe.COM]
>Sent: Thursday, July 03, 1997 12:10 AM
>To: 'FORD TRUCKS'
>Subject: 9 inch rear end
>
>I have a Dana 3.54:1 limited slip diff. in my truck. Is this considered a 9"?
>Also, isn't this also named a "spicer 44" or something? How does a person
>distinguish a 9" from looking at it?
>
>Thanks. I've been real curious about this for a long time.
>
>DC Beatty
>1967 F-100 352
>1974 Maverick 302
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
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