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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 97up-list); Sat, 29 Apr 2000 20:38:23 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 20:38:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 97up-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 97up-list Digest V2000 #63
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------------------------------------
97up-list Digest Thu, 27 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 063

In This Issue:
Re: Replacement Fuel Tank.
SD trailer bracket#2
Re: SD trailer bracket#2
SD trailer 7 pin connector
Help!!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: RSnovi aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 22:47:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Replacement Fuel Tank.

In a message dated 4/27/00 10:06:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lmarola ibm.net
writes:

Yes, he is correct, When I do what I would call a "hot fuel" takes quite a
while to make the gauge read correct if it ever does sometimes. You have to
cycle key to get correct read. I don't know why some of earlier fords you
didn't have to.

Well, guys I am headed to Charlotte, NC tomorrow anyone know of some good
stops on 95n, 26w or 77N that are cheap and interesting for diesel?

RS
<<
I ordered the 48 gallon fuel tank from Transfer Flow on Monday,
4/24. I hope to have it by 5/5. They were really good to deal
with. They recommended a local shop that could do the swap but I
decided to do it myself. I ordered the fuel line tool too. The
interesting part should be "calibrating" the fuel gauge after the
install. The Transfer Flow guy said to put in a few gallons at a
time to understand exactly how much fuel is available when the tank
is empty, when the low fuel light goes off, at half full, etc. I
hadn't considered this so I was glad to get the info. And on the
same bit of advice, he said to be sure to turn the ignition key off
and on each time I take a reading. It seems there is an anti-slosh
program built into the gauge circuit so trying to watch the gauge
rise as fuel is added won't work. You have to turn the gauge (key)
off and on each time a reading is taken.
>>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 07:34:42 -0500
From: Janster bigfoot.com>
Subject: SD trailer bracket#2

Folks,

Thanks to all for the replies. One reply I saw (Pete Calabrese,
snkypete banet.net)on the list said they have both 4 and 7 way
connectors side-by-side. If thats a Ford factory option, my local
dealers didn't telll me about it. What I might do is mount the
nickel-plated , el-cheapie 7-way bracket I bought to the bottom of the
bumper like Dave & Laura manuel (laradave earthlink.net) did. I actually
thought about doing it but didn't think the bumper would be sturdy
enough to withstand the pushing/pulling in of the connector. I also like
the option of having both 4-pin and 7-way connectors back there when
needed.

Bracketman w/ ideas


------------------------------

From: "Pete Calabrese" banet.net>
Subject: Re: SD trailer bracket#2
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 08:44:50 -0400

Yep, it was a Ford factory option...not sure if it came from the Lariat
package, or the Lariat Limited Edition package, but both my friend and I
(both Lariat LE's) have both the 4 and 7way plugs - we used different
dealers.

I just looked at the spec sheet the dealer printed out for me and the only
listing about a trailer package is on the LE option # -trailer towing
package and trailer hitch receiver....So it might be from that.

For the few bucks it cost Ford, I think it's a great option that should be
with all SD's. In my old Suburban, I had two inline plugs (one for the 4
and one for the 7) and I had troubles getting everything to stay together
until I modified it.

I can run out at lunch and see where it mounts to if anyone is interested.

Pete

___________________________________________________________________
1991 Mustang LX Coupe 347 : 12.14 112 No NOS yet! : 3240w/driver
493RWHP/582RWTQ Griggs, Wilwood, NOS : 11.64 121.53 A few years back...
Hudson Valley 5.0 #00 Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club 924EM
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.snkypete.com
1993 Taurus SHO:LPM, C&L : 1998 SeaDoo XPLimited - Coffman equipped!
2000 F-350 CrewCab Powerstroke Lariat LE Dually

-----Original Message-----
From: 97up-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:97up-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Janster
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 8:35 AM
To: 97 up list; laradave earthlink.net; snkypete banet.net
Subject: [97up-list] SD trailer bracket#2


Folks,

Thanks to all for the replies. One reply I saw (Pete Calabrese,
snkypete banet.net)on the list said they have both 4 and 7 way
connectors side-by-side. If thats a Ford factory option, my local
dealers didn't telll me about it. What I might do is mount the
nickel-plated , el-cheapie 7-way bracket I bought to the bottom of the
bumper like Dave & Laura manuel (laradave earthlink.net) did. I actually
thought about doing it but didn't think the bumper would be sturdy
enough to withstand the pushing/pulling in of the connector. I also like
the option of having both 4-pin and 7-way connectors back there when
needed.

Bracketman w/ ideas

==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
message.



------------------------------

From: "Sandy Swallow" orionre.com>
Subject: SD trailer 7 pin connector
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 07:55:07 -0700


Janster
I added the 7 pin trailer connector to my 00 350 PSD.
Just remove one of the license plate lights and slip the connector into that hole mine fit just fine.
No new holes to drill. The factory wiring harness had enough slack to reach to the hole, so no splicing or any other brain damage. This also is a very protected location on the bumper.
Hope that helps.

Sandy


------------------------------

From: "Aaron Martin" hotmail.com>
Subject: Help!!
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 18:38:35 PDT

I have a 99 superduty with the v-10, automatic, 4x4. A while ago I described
my problem, which was that the speedometer would drop to 0mph, the ABS light
would come on, the cruise control would disengage, and the engine rpms would
rise a small amount (to maintain the same speed). Also, transmission shift
points would occur at higher rpms and the shift would be much firmer. This
would generally happen for only short periods, after which everything would
return to normal. I brought the truck in to a dealership which basically
said it was an intermittant electrical problem and they couldn't do anything
about it. A second dealership replaced a speed sensor, which had no apparent
effect on the symptoms, and then replaced a computer module, which cured the
problem for about a month. Now the problem is recurring and I think the
dealership I am working with is about out of ideas.

Another problem has also surfaced recently. One evening when I started my
truck its idle speed was around 3,000 rpms instead of just under 1,000 where
it normally is. I shut the truck off and checked for a stuck throttle but
found nothing. I restarted the truck several times and worked the throttle
without any effect. Finally I shifted into drive and the idle
characteristics returned to normal. Now, several weeks later, it is doing
the oposite. The truck will not idle without some light pressure on the gas
pedal. If I come to a stop sign it will kill immediately if I don't keep my
right foot on the gas. I could adjust the hard stop for the throttle but it
seems to me that would be attempting to treat the symtoms without dealing
with the underlying problem.

Any insight into any of the above problems would be greatly appreciated.
By the way, my truck now has 38,000 miles (out of warranty, are these things
programmed to self destruct????)

Thanks,
Aaron
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

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