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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 97up-list); Sat, 12 Feb 2000 19:12:35 -0500 (EST)
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 19:12:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 97up-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 97up-list Digest V2000 #4
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1997 and Newer Truck Mailing
List(Use the Small Chassis List for Rangers, Explorers,
Aerostars and Bronco IIs.

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

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------------------------------------
97up-list Digest Fri, 11 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 004

In This Issue:
Re: when to use 4x4 mode
Re: tire and wheel balance
Re: Bumpers, Receivers, Winches
Re: when to use 4x4 mode
Mercon vs Mercon V
Re: Oil Change
Re: AIR HORNS
ESOF
Cold Front
Re: when to use 4x4 mode
Re: Kick plates
Re: ESOF
Re: Cold Front
ADMIN: Trim footers
ADMIN: Web search is back up
Re: Oil Change
Re: when to use 4x4 mode
Oil and Fuel
ADMIN: Chat is back up
Re: Oil and Fuel

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Keith Veren" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: when to use 4x4 mode
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 18:52:43 -0500

Wet roads can be full of traction, like some special pointy-rock asphalt
sometimes seen on curves in the country, or it can be slick as ice, such as
an entrance ramp to an interstate highway just after rain starts falling
after a long dry spell (the oil on the road gets lifted by the rain and
creates slick conditions. In the case of wet roads, you have to think,
about how much traction you are getting and if you put it in four-wheel and
get steering wheel "grabbing" during turns, it is acting like a "dry" road.

Keith


----- Original Message -----
From: aol.com>
To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 9:32 PM
Subject: [97up-list] when to use 4x4 mode


> Hi guys
>
> my manual reads to not drive on "dry hard surfaces" which means the road.
I
> obviously know to use it when driving through mud, dirt, snow but what
about
> wet roads?
>
> thanks
>
> Robert
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
> message.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Keith Veren" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: tire and wheel balance
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 18:56:59 -0500

1. Let some air out of the tires (8 pounds or so) and see if it still
happens.
2. Try new extra heavy-duty shocks (or double shocks).
3. get a better tie-rod shock dampener.

Keith


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirk Werner" werner.org>
To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 2:54 PM
Subject: [97up-list] tire and wheel balance


>
> When I bought my F350 CC new in October, the dealer had added oversized
> tires (Goodyear Wrangler AT/S, 30575R16) on the stock Lariat rims. They
look
> like they fit the rims fine- there's no crowning as is evident on tires
that
> have been mounted on rims which are smaller than ideal. The problem is
that
> they bounce real noticeably between 40-45 (you can feel the bounce in the
> seat- so it's not a front end shimmy). I had the service dept (a
> full-service "Ford Store") balance them twice, with no improvement. The
> second time they basically told me that because they were oversized they'd
> have that tendency, and plus being a long wheelbase truck I would notice
any
> bounce moreso than on a standard vehicle. I say BS to both. A longer
> wheelbase will decrease the noticeability of any bumpiness in the ride-
it's
> short wheelbase vehicles which are choppier riding. I've also had oversize
> tires before and that in and of itself is not a good justification for the
> bounce. My hunch is that either all or one of the tires are bad, or they
do
> not balance them properly. I know tires can be "bad" because I once bought
a
> set of four, and they ended up replacing two of them because they could
not
> get them balanced on the rims. I've also heard tell that the only way to
get
> a true balance is to balance them while they're still on the truck.
>
> Anyone else have these tires and have any problems?
>
> Kirk
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
> message.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Keith Veren" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Bumpers, Receivers, Winches
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 19:02:07 -0500

Frame, wheels and axels frozen 3' into contruction ruts!!! Wow. You don't
need a winch, you need a big chain and a bulldozer!

Keith


----- Original Message -----
From: "davesomers" worldnet.att.net>
To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 9:12 AM
Subject: [97up-list] Re: Bumpers, Receivers, Winches


> (there since I get the digest, I'm replying to several at once here)
>
> >significant emotional event when you try to un-stick your 6000-plus pound
> >beast, sunk up to the axles in mud, and the receiver fails. (You can
> >actually load a winch with up to 150% of your vehicle's weight when it's
> >stuck bad.) Don't get me wrong, I like the idea, and you won't run into
> >problems during "routine" use, but it could also fail when you need it
> most.
>
> I think that the potential load is even greater. There's a long story
that
> goes with this, but the short of it is that I stalled the XD9000 with the
> cable doubled back (18000# theoretical). It was my (fully loaded-8000#)
> Suburban sitting on its frame and axles on frozen ground (wheels were in
> the air in the tracks created by a construction truck-The ruts were 3'
deep
> when the ice broke and I fell in)
> I would agree that you should size the winch at least 1.5 times truck
> weight for self recovery.
> Of course, having said that, even a 12K is undersized for this truck
>
> > --How much do you need for trailer to pull on? Some of the smaller
ones
> >should do the trick.
>
> The limits on the receiver winches were not so much the weight limit -
it's
> more of a design problem with the trailer needing to be connected at the
> same time.
>
> >The bumpers (Ranchhand) are a nice piece i know of two friends in south
TX
> that have
> >them , they love them, I have seen them their tough. Great for those
> >unexpected animals or whatever. Their are a few other companies that make
> >them i have researched since i probably will be buying one sometime, they
> >just dont seem to measure up. You probably wont see them anywhere up
that
> >was as most people really dont know about them.
>
> I called my cousin in OK, and he's seen and liked them too. They are
> definitely in the running for the front end.
>
> Does anybody else have any other brands of winch bumpers to throw into the
> conversation? (99SD PSD)
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
> message.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Keith Veren" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: when to use 4x4 mode
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 19:07:54 -0500

The best advise from Alan gave is quoted below. Remember, all cars and
trucks are 4-wheel STOP. So having 4-wheel GO does nothing for getting you
out of trouble when you need more braking power.

Keith

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bowes" todacosa.com>
To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 2:10 PM
Subject: [97up-list] Re: when to use 4x4 mode
>
> And a word of advice in closing: Don't get overconfident when in
four-wheel
> drive. It could be disastrous.
>
> Alan



------------------------------

From: "Ron,Marge,Ted" sunlink.net>
Subject: Mercon vs Mercon V
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:47:31 -0500


Hi all,

Can anyone tell me if mercon and mercon v tranny fluids are interchangeable and if not, what's the difference between them?
Thanks...Ron


------------------------------

From: "Ron,Marge,Ted" sunlink.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Change
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 23:05:03 -0500


----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph Lindberg amsat.org>
To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 10:14 AM
Subject: [97up-list] Re: Oil Change
>
> IMHO 3000 for 'normal' oil, a full 6000 for synth -or- 6 months (lets not
> leave that part out)
>
> This oil change stuff comes up a lot, the RV groups, the driving groups,
> etc, etc, etc. From my filter (snicker) ie taking out people that change
> oil way to often, like Nathan (sorry guy) and a co-worker that uses synth
> and never changes his oil (just the filter and whatever he spills) and
then
> refills

I'll go ahead and throw a wrench into this oil change interval thread! I
have a friend who put over 100k on his '71 Olds Cutlass with only 2...yes
that's TWO oil changes in it's lifetime!! Definitely not recommended but it
is amazing the longevity he got from this car with such neglect.....Go
figure!!!
Ron


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 20:58:44 -0700
From: Bill Funk uswest.net>
Subject: Re: AIR HORNS

There are, as far as I know, two basic types of air horns.
One is the small, "instant" kind, with a small compressor, plastic horns, and a
plastic tube connecting the two together. Thgis type can go all under the hood, or
you can mount the horns anywhere youcan routw the tube to.
Then, there are the "real" air horns. This type uses an air compressor with a
pressure cutoff, a tank, and the horns, usually bigger (and louder) than the
"instant" kind. With these, you need a place to mount the compressor & tank, and the
horns usually mount on the cab's roof, but can really go anywhere you want to put
them.
As for where to get them, the "instant" kind can be had from Pep Boys (and similar)
stores. The bigger sets can be had from many big rig shops, or JC Whitney (who also
carries the smaller ones).
Bill

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:

>
> From: "Douglas Petschow" metlife.com>
> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 14:04:04 -0500
> Subject: AIR HORNS
>
> Any ideas where I can get air horns for my F250SD? Also how much do they run
> and where are the best places to install them? Will they fit under the hood for
> example or is it just best to put them on top of the truck? TIA!
>
> ------------------------------


------------------------------

From: JPatte5238 aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 23:11:32 EST
Subject: ESOF

My ESOF went out at 28,000 miles (last week). The truck was built in first
half '98 but missed the back up at the factory because of the ESOF failure.
Remember the trucks that were diverted to a holding area for repairs (rusting
trucks). At times the 4 wheel drive wouldn't go into gear or I had to engage
the hubs manually. The dealership replaced the module for the ESOF. The
would like to have a couple more snow days to test the ESOF system so I can
be happy. Has anybody had the module replaced to go bad again?

John Patterson
'99 superduty


his SD 250 4X4. According to him this is not unusual. Cost was $550 to fix
and said his dealer stated that using ESOF on the fly would result in
stripped hub gears and that it is a known problem with SD Fords!!

I know from watching this list that we have a little of everything here -
5th wheelers, snow plow people, off-roaders and just plain drivers, so how
'bout it?? Anyone have a problem with their ESOF and any dealer feedback???

------------------------------

From: JPatte5238aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 23:17:16 EST
Subject: Cold Front

I purchase a Lund Stainless Steel Cold Front (radiator) for my '99 superduty.
The fit is perfect with openings for the Ford symbol and the two horizontal
bars. If anybody wants to see a pic of it, give me a reply.

John Patterson
'99 superduty

------------------------------

From: "Steve J. Hodson" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: when to use 4x4 mode
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 08:12:38 -0500

I would like to add one additional note. My first FWD was a 77 F250 with
manual hubs and transfer case. The front axle on this truck had a very
slightly different gear ratio than the rear (4.09 vs 4.10), the front and
rear ring and pinon sets were not interchangable. This kept the front end
pulling slightly faster than the rear and tended to keep the truck in a
straight line in very slick conditions (ice, packed snow). The drivetrain
would always bind a little even with identical diameter tires in a straight
line but it did very well on high speed snowy roads.
-----Original Message-----
From: Karen Wall / Steve Offiler ici.net>
To: 97up-listford-trucks.com <97up-listford-trucks.com>;
97up-listford-trucks.com <97up-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, February 11, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: [97up-list] Re: when to use 4x4 mode


>Alan's explanation and advice (below) is truly excellent. I have one minor
>point to add. There seemed to be a question in the original post as to why
>the stress builds up in the driveline. The answer is that a "part-time"
>4WD system has no center differential. Meaning, the front and rear axles
>are locked together and forced to rotate at exactly the same speed when in
>4WD mode. Then, as Alan points out, the driveline experiences stresses
>(potentially damaging stresses) when the vehicle undergoes conditions that
>have the front wheels turning at different speeds than the rears. This
>happens to an extreme during turns and to a lesser degree when heading in a
>straight line. But in 4WD the axles are locked and they must turn at
>exactly the same speed. The only slippage that can possibly occur to
>relieve the stresses is at the contact patch between tire and road - or you
>can break gear teeth in the transfer case.
>
>At 12:10 PM 2/11/00 -0700, Alan Bowes wrote:
>>In terms of the amount of stress that builds up in your drivetrain as a
>result of
>>using four-wheel drive, the key question is "How much stress is safe or
>>practical."
>>
>>There's really no clear answer. A part-time 4x4 system (with no center
>>differential in the transfer case) will always build up stress in the
>drivetrain
>>when driving with the hubs engaged and the transfer case in the
>four-wheel-drive
>>position. The amount of stress is limited by the point at which the tires
>begin
>>to slip (or traction), which you could call the "fuse" in the circuit.
>>
>>NOTE: Even when driving straight ahead, the front tires and rear tires
never
>>turn "exactly" the same number of revolutions over a given distance. Even
if
>>there is only a fraction of a revolution difference per mile, you will
>eventually
>>build up just as much stress as if you were making turns. Maximum stress
>is built
>>up as soon as the difference in rotation between the front and rear axles
is
>>enough to exceed the amount of play in the drivetrain components and the
>amount
>>of flex in the tire treads and drivetrain component mounts...as limited by
>tire
>>traction. The only difference is that it requires a longer distance to
>build up
>>to maximum driveline stress when going straight ahead in four-wheel drive
>than
>>when making turns. And it would not necessarily be a very long distance,
>either,
>>perhaps only several hundred feet, maybe more, maybe less, depending on
>the road
>>surface, variation in tire diameter, wheel alignment specs, etc.
>>
>>On the other hand, doing a lot of turning while in four-wheel drive will
>cause
>>the loading/unloading of drivetrain stress to occur more frequently, so
there
>>could be a fatigue factor involved.
>>
>>The reason that stress builds up more quickly when making turns in
four-wheel
>>drive is because in a turn the front tires inscribe a larger arc than the
>rear
>>tires (due to some understeer designed into the steering geometry). In
other
>>words, the front tires travel a significantly longer distance in a turn.
>If you
>>want to see what the difference is, make a tight turn in some fresh snow
>and have
>>a look at the tracks you left.
>>
>>Here's a VERY approximate sliding scale of driveline stress conditions,
>based on
>>surfaces:
>>
>>-- On dry pavement, the stress level may be very high
>>-- On wet pavement, the stress level may be moderate to moderately high.
>>-- On dry packed dirt or hard-packed gravel, the stress level may be
>moderate to
>>low.
>>-- On soft dirt or gravel, the stress level may be low.
>>-- On mud or sand, the stress level may be very low.
>>-- On snow or ice, the stress level may be extremely low.
>>
>>Keep in mind that there are LARGE variations in traction within each of
>the above
>>categories. For example, a certain type of rough wet pavement might
>provide a lot
>>more traction than glassy-smooth wet pavement. Some people like to use
>four-wheel
>>drive on wet pavement...your decision.
>>
>>Another factor that will influence drivetrain stress is the load that the
>vehicle
>>is carrying. If there is a lot of weight in the bed of a pickup truck, you
>can
>>build up a lot more stress in the driveline in four-wheel drive, since it
is
>>usually the rear tires that will slip first if the bed is empty.
>>
>>Another factor is a limited-slip or locking differential.
>>
>>Another factor is the tire itself (tread pattern, tire size, pressure,
>>condition, rubber composition, temperature, etc.)
>>
>>Generally speaking, as traction conditions worsen, there will be less
>stress on
>>the driveline as the result of using four-wheel drive...AND greater
>benefits from
>>using four-wheel drive. The decision as to when to use four-wheel drive is
>>entirely yours. As I recall, the basic owner's manual seems to give pretty
>good
>>general advice on this matter.
>>
>>And a word of advice in closing: Don't get overconfident when in
four-wheel
>>drive. It could be disastrous.
>>
>>Alan
>>
>>
>>> In a message dated 2/10/00 7:54:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>jmannliving.com
>>> writes:
>>>
>>> << I've used mine on went pavement before. But not on a continuos basis
and
>>> mainly on straight. It's great for getting away from lights on wet
>pavement.
>>> Let's just say that turns on dry pavement are a BAD thing! I believe
when
>>> the truck is in 4x4 mode the diffs get locked, or something. But lets
>wait
>>> for a more expert opinion.
>>
>>==========================================================
>>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>>the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
>>message.
>>
>>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Steve J. Hodson" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kick plates
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 08:16:48 -0500

I saw a picture of an SD on the ford diesel web site that had spray on bed
liner poymer applied like a fender flair on the wheel openings and carried
along the bottom of the truck on the rocker panels like a kick plate. It
looked really nice but of course is pretty darn hard to change if you get
tired of it.
-----Original Message-----
From: jmannliving.com living.com>
To: 97up-listford-trucks.com <97up-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 6:19 PM
Subject: [97up-list] Kick plates


>Ok, I'm not exactly sure if they call them kick plates, but you know that
>strip of plastic trim on the floor of the truck, at the edge of the door
>opening, that is hidden when the door is closed?? I hope that's a good
>enough explanation. Anyway, does anyone know where I might find some nice
>chrome steel or polished aluminum ones. Since this is one of the first
>places I step when getting in the truck, they tend to show where faster.
>Metal would look nicer and last longer.
>
>Thanks
>
>Joe
>Austin, TX.
>
>Let your friends know that they can register to win one of 10 $1000 gift
>certificates at living.com. They just need to click here
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://promotions.yahoo.com/promotions/living3/ to register. Pass it on!
>Sorry, had to put a plug in for the old company.
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Steve J. Hodson" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: ESOF
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 08:19:33 -0500

My 99 F350 had a recall that affected the ESOF. The dealer replaced the GEM
module. I had no problems with mine but the recall notice said that it could
cause the ESOF to engage on it's own or fail to engage when you turned the
switch. Was his related to this?
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Benne worldnet.att.net>
To: Trucks Ford <97up-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 11:32 PM
Subject: [97up-list] ESOF


>Friend of mine in another state just had his ESOF go bad at 37,000 miles on
>his SD 250 4X4. According to him this is not unusual. Cost was $550 to
fix
>and said his dealer stated that using ESOF on the fly would result in
>stripped hub gears and that it is a known problem with SD Fords!!
>
>I know from watching this list that we have a little of everything here -
>5th wheelers, snow plow people, off-roaders and just plain drivers, so how
>'bout it?? Anyone have a problem with their ESOF and any dealer
feedback???
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Brandon Cantrell" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cold Front
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 08:29:06 MST

yeah man, i'd like to see it! sounds cool.


>From: JPatte5238aol.com
>Reply-To: 97up-listford-trucks.com
>To: 97up-listford-trucks.com
>Subject: [97up-list] Cold Front
>Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 23:17:16 EST
>
>I purchase a Lund Stainless Steel Cold Front (radiator) for my '99
>superduty.
> The fit is perfect with openings for the Ford symbol and the two
>horizontal
>bars. If anybody wants to see a pic of it, give me a reply.
>
>John Patterson
>'99 superduty
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 13:24:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Trim footers

Can everyone discipline themselves to remove the unsubscribe
information footer from the bottom of messages when replying?
It's getting old seeing 4 of them on a multiple message reply.
If the list can't self-police themselves with this, I'll have
to set up a filter to bounce such posts.

Thanks,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 14:33:37 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Web search is back up

The Ford Truck Enthusiasts web search is working again.
It's very fast and will search about 200 meg of content
in about 2-5 seconds.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: "Keith Veren" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Change
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 14:09:47 -0500

The engine still may have run; however, it would be interesting to check the
compression, oil-usage, and any drop in power from cam lobe wear.

Keith


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron,Marge,Ted" sunlink.net>
To: <97up-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 11:05 PM
Subject: [97up-list] Re: Oil Change


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ralph Lindberg amsat.org>
> To: <97up-listford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 10:14 AM
> Subject: [97up-list] Re: Oil Change
> >
> > IMHO 3000 for 'normal' oil, a full 6000 for synth -or- 6 months (lets
not
> > leave that part out)
> >
> > This oil change stuff comes up a lot, the RV groups, the driving groups,
> > etc, etc, etc. From my filter (snicker) ie taking out people that change
> > oil way to often, like Nathan (sorry guy) and a co-worker that uses
synth
> > and never changes his oil (just the filter and whatever he spills) and
> then
> > refills
>
> I'll go ahead and throw a wrench into this oil change interval thread! I
> have a friend who put over 100k on his '71 Olds Cutlass with only 2...yes
> that's TWO oil changes in it's lifetime!! Definitely not recommended but
it
> is amazing the longevity he got from this car with such neglect.....Go
> figure!!!
> Ron
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
> message.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 04:17:27 -0800
From: Jean Marc Chartier sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: when to use 4x4 mode

Karen Wall / Steve Offiler wrote:
>
> Alan's explanation and advice (below) is truly excellent. I have one minor
> point to add. There seemed to be a question in the original post as to why
> the stress builds up in the driveline. The answer is that a "part-time"
> 4WD system has no center differential. Meaning, the front and rear axles
> are locked together and forced to rotate at exactly the same speed when in
> 4WD mode. Then, as Alan points out, the driveline experiences stresses
> (potentially damaging stresses) when the vehicle undergoes conditions that
> have the front wheels turning at different speeds than the rears. This
> happens to an extreme during turns and to a lesser degree when heading in a
> straight line. But in 4WD the axles are locked and they must turn at
> exactly the same speed. The only slippage that can possibly occur to
> relieve the stresses is at the contact patch between tire and road - or you
> can break gear teeth in the transfer case.
>


The T-case used by Ford these days uses a chain to drive
the front drive shaft. Using it on dry pavement or under
extreme conditions will cause the chain to stretch. When it
stretches enough it will break. Before it breaks you will
hear a clunk when driving and stressing the drive train in
4x4 because of the slack in the chain.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 16:48:07 -0500
Subject: Oil and Fuel
From: "Steve and Caryl Baron" rcn.com>

I passed up diesel fuel 30 miles from home (NYC) at $2.19 a gallon only to
find it in the Bronx at $2.39, Exxon. I did not fill the tank. Later found
Getty at $2.00. Anything wrong with Getty's (diesel) fuel?

Stopped in a Straus Auto Store while in the Bronx, to price oil, as we don't
have a Walmart or K-Mart anywhere around. Pretty wide range of prices.
Powerstroke engines have a reputation for lasting a very long time without
doing anything special like using synthetic oil. My 2000 requires 16 quarts
per change, so I'm hoping that buying moderate cost oil won't be
pound-foolish. Is there any difference in the 10 or 20 brands of oil I see
on the shelves? Can anyone refer me to a web-site or available magazine
comparison?

I have seen enough general comments to think that sticking with Motorcraft
filters is worth that investment.

Comments?

Thanks,

Steve Baron New York, NY baronnyrcn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 18:08:39 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Chat is back up

It's been a productive day so far. The Ford Truck
Enthusiasts web chat is back up. The Java VM we're
running is a much newer version than the one on our
previous server. It should be much more stable.
However, as a precautionary measure, it will restart
every hour until I'm comfortable with its operation.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: "Keith Veren" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Oil and Fuel
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 17:15:46 -0500

Wow. With the price of diesel fuel these days, I guess I am glad I went
with an F-350 SuperDuty with the V-10 gas motor. Of course, $1.35/gallon
still is not chicken feed.

Keith

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve and Caryl Baron" rcn.com>
To: <97up-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 4:48 PM
Subject: [97up-list] Oil and Fuel


> I passed up diesel fuel 30 miles from home (NYC) at $2.19 a gallon only to
> find it in the Bronx at $2.39, Exxon. I did not fill the tank. Later found
> Getty at $2.00. Anything wrong with Getty's (diesel) fuel?
>
> Stopped in a Straus Auto Store while in the Bronx, to price oil, as we
don't
> have a Walmart or K-Mart anywhere around. Pretty wide range of prices.
> Powerstroke engines have a reputation for lasting a very long time without
> doing anything special like using synthetic oil. My 2000 requires 16
quarts
> per change, so I'm hoping that buying moderate cost oil won't be
> pound-foolish. Is there any difference in the 10 or 20 brands of oil I see
> on the shelves? Can anyone refer me to a web-site or available magazine
> comparison?
>
> I have seen enough general comments to think that sticking with Motorcraft
> filters is worth that investment.
>
> Comments?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Baron New York, NY baronnyrcn.com
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the
> message.
>
>


------------------------------

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